How to replace the lock actuator on a 2008 Honda CRV
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2017
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The screws will not come out !!! What should I do.In this video I will show how to replace the lock actuator on a 2008 Honda CRV even after the screws strip out.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of jimthecarguy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information,. jimthecarguy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. jimthecarguy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, chemicals, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of jimthecarguy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not jimthecarguy. 
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Dealership wanted $318 to replace a single door actuator, saved hundreds by doing it myself with the help of this video. Thanks!!!
The right and left rear actuators on my 08 were clicking on and off when I drove at low speeds. After reading some comments here and elsewhere, I used a dealer's web form to determine whether mine is covered by a recall. The website reported that my car is not covered, so I ordered Honda replacement actuators for about $50 ea. from Ebay. I replaced both following this procedure. Thanks for a helpful video.
I could not get the three screws out, even though the heads of the screws were not chewed up like the ones in this video. I bought an impact hammer for this job but it had no effect on the screws I had to drill them out as shown in the video. I separately ordered new screws since they didn't come with the new actuators.
The video makes some steps look easier than they were for me, but the video was a big help. Now both rear actuators are working fine.
I’m so grateful to you, Jim. You’ve helped me through brakes, rotors, oil changes and now this! I love that you keep getting CR-V’s, too. My 2008 is driving like new thanks to you.
Glad to help. The CRV is a great car for sure.
I've watched a lot of Jimmy's videos as he provides good information. But with all due respect to Jimmy, and as the owner of 2 Hondas, I can attest to the over tightening of bolts and screws on Honda vehicles. According to my Honda service manual, the screws that this owner stripped are supposed to torqued at 4 lbft of torque. I had to use an impact screwdriver to remove mine. There's no bleeping way mine were torqued at only 4 lbft.
JIm, I just replaced that same part on my Honda CRV 2009. My "crap" part was ok(LOL), and I had to swap the door handle rod which is wasn't difficult BUT the center of the rod where it attaches to the motor clip had to be expanded apart to remove it. This action was accomplished by using needle pliers, inserted them far enough to make room and remove it from the old unit. Once I slipped it into the new part I used electrical pliers since they are about half an inch in diameter and slowly and carefully I squeezed until I reached the desired result. Also, the two little screws from the panel had to be upgraded in thickness because they did not fit properly into the new unit. Lucky I had an arsenal of screws in containers in my garage. Moreover, to slide the new unit in place I had to do it from the bottom by pulling on the window glass channel and coming from under it. It takes patience since I did stripped one of the screw that your customer did (OOPS!). I removed it with and impact cordless drill and a very good grip. I appreciate the video and your dedication to help. P.S. The noise was "P-----me off), even though it ain't my car.
Thanks! Completed the job on my 2009 CRV. I also had a lot of trouble with the 3 screws. 1 came out relatively easy, the other 2 would not budge. Impact driver didn't work. I finally used a propane torch (as suggested in comments) and they came out easily. I also had some trouble getting that rod out, but it eventually popped out. Everything else went exactly according to video. Couldn't have done it without your help. Thanks! (I bought the part from Walmart online, $21.65 free shipping) . BTW, my "symptoms" were the rear drivers side door would lock with power lock, (and automatically when driving 9 mph), but would not unlock automatically when the front drivers door was unlocked with the button or with the key. The rear drivers door could only be unlocked manually, and it was quite difficult to unlock manually. When this door remained lock, the tailgate also remained locked, so it was a real PIA and I needed to fix it.
Great idea with the torch! I didn’t have one and the first two screws came out but they were the most difficult screws I have ever removed. Full weight pushing in and the huge Philips head seemed like it my snap from the torque. For the final one (this is my recommendation for future novices like me who have no torch at home) I just put a pipe wrench on the screwdriver and used that while pushing. It came out super easy!
Jim, thanks a million. To get the actuator in and out was a huge PitA. I finally figured out how to use the little round port to push/hammer the actuator rod out. Then it took a while to get the old actuator out, and putting the new one in was still a challenge. I finally learned that starting the new actuator at the bottom of the window track, and pushing the track forward and twisting it enabled me to get the actuator rod behind the track, then slide the whole actuator up into position. I didn't strip the screws thankfully but I did pound them a bit and I think it pushed the body metal in a bit - so I used a socket with the P3 bit to break them without any further problem, they were tight! Also, you are right about OEM parts. I started with a cheap EBAY special and the electrical plug wouldn't fit into it, also it didn't have the actuator rod attached so I had the extra step of pulling the rod off the old part and putting it on the new one, another PitA.
Just changed my rear passenger door out, and these instructions were so helpful. I’m pretty close to being a complete novice on car repairs, but this video was great! Thanks so much!
Just did this on my crv. Took about 5 hours of work for me (haven’t done much car work). Seems like drilling through the screws with a metal bit is the only way. Also, not sure if it’s because my car is really old, but getting the plastic tab off was extremely tough. Thanks for the tutorial!
Omg thank you...I actually changed the actuator on my own thanks to this. And I have zero experience in this. Thanks so much!
Thanks for the great instructions. I just finished and saved several hundred dollars.
Thanks for this video. I just finished my passenger side door. Some advice for others watching: (1) buy the kind of impact driver that you hit with a hammer and make sure you use the right size bit. (2) I took off the rod at the top (with the clip) and it was crazy difficult. When I reinstalled, I disconnected it at the actuator and it was infinitely easier. Next time, I would leave the top connected and only disconnect at the actuator if possible - the plastic piece that connects the rod and the actuator pulls straight off (3) #2 is impossible with the window track in the way (you have to pull toward the front of the car). Instead of forcing the track to the side, just remove the bottom bolt that holds it on and move it over.. Super easy and won't affect your window's movement later.
The best bit size is JIS 3 (not a std phillips bit) .
Thanks for posting this. I was able to use this vid as a tut to replace both front actuators.
My installation was a breeze thanks to your video! Much appreciated. I almost stripped the screws as well, but decided to use my impact drill instead of the screw driver. Glad I did. Again, thank you.
Thanks Jim...did it with your help. One suggestion, check your window that it moves up and down normally before you put everything back together. When you loosen that window channel and re-tighten the nut, it may not be aligned properly.
Man did my friend’s earlier today and I forgot to test this!!! That’s great advice. She’ll let me know soon if it doesn’t roll back up right, I’m sure lol.
I’m watching vids now to see if anyone had a special way to get the 3 actuator screws out. I had to use my spring loaded impact phillips driver. A torch. And a ballpeen. Crazy.
@@MrTravisAl you didn't use WD40 to loosen them up? If no torch, one can use the hot hair dryer.
Thank you so much for this video. Very detailed without rambling.
Thank you for watching and you comment.
this is great information I missed the Honda actuator recall 2014/2015 period and since then I have avoided this replacement just because of the cost. no mechanic around me will do this. they say it is body-shop work and that means at least $500 right out of my pocket. body shop doesn't touch the work less than that. with your video help this seems doable. I am going to try this soon and let you know how it goes.
Thank you, it all worked great. The hardest part was getting the whole mechanism unbolted from the door, screws would not budge. I went to the local hardware store to pick up an impact screwdriver but they were out, so got a beefy #3 screwdriver and that worked with pressure and 2 hands. Also my replacement was just the actuator and not the whole mechanism so had to check different video on swapping it out.
Great job
Thank you sir. My fiancé has this car and you have a lot of videos on it specifically. It’s a great help.
Stripped the screws and had to drill them out like You showed us. Worked perfect just like you said. Thanks a lot for your help. Vic
I',m happy to help.Thank you for watching
Yeah those damn screws along with some other manufacturers keep making screws that are made out of butter... So easy to strip out...annoying. Hate cheapo screws.
Nice work Jim. Nice of the customer to make it a bit more challenging for you!
Believe it or not that job went pretty easy even with the screws stripped.
Thank you for the video. My 2008 crv rear driver started to unlock on its own. Need to replace and do the same. Thanks again.
Great vid. I used it to the replace the right rear actuator on wife's 2008 Honda CRV. It was my first actuator replacement and could not have done it without you. The door lock works like new!! Can you post a vid on replacing the window motor for an '08 Nissan Titan. Thank you very much!!!
Thank you. The boy and I just finished fixing both rear doors on momma's car :)
Thanks Jim, I do it with the guide of your video. Un abrazo desde Chile
always enjoy your repair videos, keep up the great work
Thank you for stopping by the shop
Excellent video - you got me thru it successfully. Thanx Jim!
Great Video, Thanks to you I was able to make the change in my 2008 CRV too! Awesome! and it only took me 90 minutes!
Can you tell what is the part #?
Thank you Jim! Your video was incredibly helpful!! I used my DeWalt impact driver with a number 3 Philips screw bit, and it got those three difficult screws out, no problem.
Nice video, very helpful thank you keep’em coming 👍😀
Awesome Video Jim from Arizona. Currently in the process to switch the door actuator in our 08 CRV. Same door as in the video. I had the same problem with those three screws. Stubborn as hell. I also found it challenging to get the rod out from that plastic latch. I don't know what the formal name of that part is called but it was irritating. Even when I rotated it up, it wouldn't come out. I ended up breaking it, whoops. Going to Honda to purchase that small piece. Hopefully they have it. Your video is really helping me get through the process. Thank you!
You are invited to the cookout
thanks for all you do. the one family member we all need and appreciate keep up the great work
Thanks a lot, I just bought 2008 CRV 20500km Yesterday even not have yet. Low km but still bit worry about the common problem from 3rd generation. good to know, Great information for my future problem-solving.
kim jennifer they are very dependable. I think they are one of the most reliable vehicles out there now. If o need anything let me know
Thabks for the video. Using a JIS 3 bit on an hammer type impact driver will prevent the screw heads from stripping .
I tried a cheap manual impact driver to break the screws (Tekton), and it was worthless. What I ended up using was a #3 Philips impact bit on a Makita 1/2" impact gun on the slow speed. I leaned into it and broke all 3 without incident. I haven't done the job yet because I wanted to test the screw issue first, but thanks for the video. It will come in handy. Doing the job tomorrow, and I don't have to buy more drill bits, lol.
Good luck and thank you for your input.
Very helpful video thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Monterrey Contreras thank you for stopping by the shop
THANK YOU for sharing this video.. Thank you for the knowledge
Awesome video thanks for sharing. I hope you have a blessed week.
Thank you
Great video. I just started to attempt this project myself and immediately the screws stripped. It must be a common defect. Each of the screws reacted like they were plastic. Honda should use more reliable parts from the screws to the actuators.
There not a normal Phillips head screw that's why everyone strips em. There a JIS screw look it up and you'll see why they stripped . I know this is old comment but for anyone that wants to know what went wrong!!
That is a nice job you did on that car, and after seeing you performing it, I would be considering trying it myself on one of my vehicles.
Thank you for stopping by the shop
Thank you Jim . Great video
You are a good man Jim.
Helped me greatly. Thank you!
I'm happy to help.Thanks for watching.
Thank You....great instructions
Excellent video! Thank you
I was able to replace both! Thanks for video. Had a super hard time disconnecting the rod on both sides. That's what took the most time. Any suggestions if I need to replace them again in the future?
Thank you Jim I'll give it a try, nice of you to share, thank you,
James Thompson Glad to help.
you make me survive, Thank you, Jim
Thanks for watching.
I had a bear of a time trying to remove the top of the rod from the door handle until I went thru the access hole by the door bumper with a screwdriver as you suggested.
Thanks...nice video! I was able to change it for the drivers side door.
ninanth Great!
Thank you great video. God bless you
Those 3 screws can be stubborn on Hondas, impact driver and penetrating oil are your friend. Nice job Jim.
That is the worst part of the job.
I can’t get mine off to save my life
8:00: In case you need to drill out the screws, those are three flat-head machine screws, 6mm diameter, 16mm long, 1mm pitch, available in stainless at most hardware stores.
Great job. A true pro
Great work,
Excellent video
Very helpful thanks
Thanks for the great video, my question is how to remove old metal hook arm from old actuator onto new one. Mine came without it. Thanks
Amazing video Uncle Jim!!!!!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice work
Great video, saved me a headache.
Hi, your video is a great one but what would you do when the passenger door is stuck. That is my situation on 2011 honda crv. Thank Jim in advance.
Thanks so much
How do you get the connector rod off of the actuator that connects to the door handle without breaking it? Mine didn’t come with a rod and all the local stores stocked the actuator without the rod? Thanks for the video, it’s helped me up to this point. 👍
Hi Jim, could you video one for crv 2005 rear door locking mechanism & door actuator assembly too pls?
Thanks for the videos for door actuator repairs for 2008 Honda CR-V. I followed your other front passenger video and made the repair successfully. Today I made a second attempt to repair the back left as in this video, but simply cannot get the rod loose. I sprayed the rod insert area with WD-40 before replacing the door panel, and may try it one more time. Is the WD-40 likely to help? Thanks again for the tremendous help and encouragement!
I'm happy to help.The WD 40 will help but some time they can be tight to remove.Thank you for watching.
Hi Jim. I have watched many of your Honda CRV videos and have learned a lot. I have a 2013 Honda CRV. I can only open the car with the remote and not with the Key in the cylinder. The Key turns left and right in the cylinder, but the car does not lock or unlock. Would the cylinder be broken, or would a cable be unhooked? I am worried that if my car battery dies, i will not be able to enter the car.
Can you please provide your valuable advice. Thanks
Top tip: before attempting to remove the three screws in the door edge, heat them up with a mini-torch and let the heat soak into the screw body, get them hot but not so hot they melt the paint. They will come out like butter! Do not use an impact screwdriver!! It will dent in the thin sheetmetal.
Thank you!!!! x2! I went out and bought an impact driver (manual), bang! bang! bang! no joy! Took out the propane torch... (I did brown a little paint, no big deal) and the 2 remaining screws came right out! Interestingly, I managed to get one out with a screwdriver, same one as the video. The other 2 were impossible.
@@jaxunable Glad it helped you, and thanks for confirming to others my suggestion works! I do *many* 07-11 CRV regulators at work and there is really no telling how tight or loose any of the three screw will be. Always random.
@@Diegocurt73probably apply lighter heat for maybe 10 whole seconds then let it 'rest' so the heat soak will travel up into the screw, which helps soften the thread locker.
Cool video dude.... Go CRV 2008 go... the best.
Thanks 👍
Thank you 😊
You're welcome 😊
Nice Vid just had a coffee and watched then did the job just saved braking the odd clip
peter harding Glad I could help.
i now need to change the N/S front door lock but it is locked and i cannot unlock it i think the customer thinks because i changed the back one two weeks ago he thinks i have caused the front to go faulty Customers,
Hi Jim! Great video! If you don't mind could you tell me something: I have a 2008 CRV and the passenger front door lock will lock itself right after I open it (manually or remotely), so to open the door I have maybe one second after I unlock it before it locks itself again... (hope this makes sense). Would changing the lock actuator fix this problem? Thank you!
Thanks Jim! Very helpful video. I have the same situation where my 3 screws strip out. I want to ask what drill head did you use, and size ? I'm afraid to make a damage to the holes. Thank you.
I will be doing a live stream tonight at 7:00 PM (EST) on my jimthecarguy channel. I will explain what to do when the screws have to be drilled out. i hope you can stop by .In the chat section let me know when your there so I can explain.
Thanks for the video-- does anyone know if the replacement actuators are prone to failing too or is it just an issue of the original Honda ones... wondering if I'm kicking the can down the road or actually repairing the issue (08 CRV)-- Thanks
Thanks.
Hi Jim! What would be a reasonable price to have this job done? I’m also curious to know if the locks were making a noise every time the car got locked or unlocked?
great vid, found what I needed (the changing out of the linkage), but I cringe at his drilling out of those screws unless they are fully destroyed, get out your handy dandy impact hammer. it made quick work of my stuck in screws. i think they're made to fail and strip out so you have to take it into the dealership ;p job security
You are amazing!
Wow, thank you!
Nice Thank you!
I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching.
A friend has a 2011 Ridgeline and the driver rear door won't open. He took apart the passenger side and it seems to be a sealed unit with a cable instead of rods. How can he get the door open in order to access the actuator
My actuator didn't come with a door handle arm. I had to pry the clip off the actuator and put the rod on from the back side then re-apply the clip and rod on the actuator.
Does a 2008 CRV have a BCM module? I can’t find any videos on this. My neighbor has door locks that lock 10-12 times in a row at random. Sometimes even trolling up the window will cause the vehicle to start locking the doors over and over. Also the windshield wipers will trigger the door locks. I’m trying to help him but I’m lost on this one. Haha thanks
My part matched exactly. It did not come with the handle rod attached though. How do I get my rod off my old actuator to install on the new one?
Thanks for any help.
Screw bit size is #3. If you strip the slots, I’m going to save you some money. Instead of paying around $4 per screw at Honda or $3.25 on eBay or Amazon, go to Home Depot and pay $1.25 each. Still a lot for a single screw but much better. Go to the screws in the drawers, not hanging ones. Look for these:
M6-1.0 x 18 mm (Metric)
Don’t worry that the thread tip isn’t smaller like the old ones. That is just for helping to make inserting it easier.
Thanks bud👍
@@618Todd You’re welcome. You already did the job or you’re about to? Already stripped a couple of them?
I put 2 inch wide masking tape over the door goo. that Honda water shield goo gets EVERYWHERE.... it’s slimy sticky nasty stuff. I usually use a spring loaded rotating impact screwdriver (the ones to remove seized Honda brake rotor screws) and a hammer and they come right out. Today I had to use the impact screwdriver for one. The next 2 wouldn’t crack and turn without a torch. The last one I actually torched a few times and beat the head with the round end of a ballpeen hammer.
Hi Jim! Thank you for this video. I have a CRV that's having an issue with the trunk actuator not functioning. It started out simply not opening, then when I opened up the trunk I discovered that the actuator and the metal mechanism that it is supposed to be attached to we're not attached to the inside of the trunk like it is supposed to be. I reattached the two actuator components to themselves with screws I got at a hardware and reattached it to the trunk itself, but it still does not work. Does that mean that the actuator is bad? The metal half of the actuator does not seem to respond well to the trunk handle which makes me wonder if that has gone bad.
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated
Thank you! I will be changing the actuator on my 08 CR-V this weekend. It was acting up, the mechanic disconnected it and now the tail gate won't open.
Fireheart7 I'm happy to help thanks for watching let me know how you do
Yeah the computer won't unlock the tailgate unless all other doors' sensors report that they are unlocked.
Nice job Jim. I think you'd be great for everyone to bring their car to after they've messed it up...just saying :D
as always exelent video. how much is the labor cost for change the door lock actuator. you have a good weekend.
This one was just 2 hr.It was not that bad.
Hi Jim, thanks for the video. Though i did manage to strip one of the three screws. What size drill bit did you use ?
Thanks again, Andy.
Instead of Phillips, use JIS head, size #3. Use heat like a torch, heat gun or hair dryer in a pinch. And use penetrating oil several times before attempting removal.
What size drill bit did you use to drill out the screws?
This may be common sense to most, but i don’t have much experience working on cars. I had a lot of difficulty getting the plastic tab (out/in) that connects the actuator to the rod that controls the external door handle. To getting it out, I just forced it and the plastic tab popped out and fell on the ground but was still usable. For getting it back in, I put the plastic tab in the rod without the actuator. It was a lot easier as you just turn it so its shortest width pops into place. Once it’s through the rod, you turn it 90 degrees any way and it’ll be ready for you to push the actuator pin through.
Hope this helps anyone. Sorry if it’s confusing.
Hey I'm having problems removing rod from old actuator because new actuator came without rod. Can anyone help?
I was able to separate the rod from the actuator. Much easier than pulling the rod out of the door handle assembly. My actuator didn't come with the rod so it made sense to do it this way and was much easier
What type of drill bit did you use to drill out screws. I drilled 2 out using a cobalt bit. Took one bit for each. Third one will not drill out.
I am having the exact problem. Dealer quote is $300 to replace. I found the HONDA part for $80 on Amazon. After watching the video I am confident I could attempt this fix with a few hours and beverages. The one question I have is the three screws that appear to be very difficult to remove, what size screw driver bit should I use for those screws. I am thinking of getting an impact screwdriver to help remove them. I would hate to strip the heads of the screws and would like to be certain I am using the correct size bit.
Can you send link for this parts
Do you have the Honda part number for the actuator handy? Awesome video!
This is for the rear left on a 2008 Honda CRV. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD4AGLK/
Genuine Honda 72650-SWA-A01 Latch Assembly, Rear, Left
thanks for this video. my daughter just bought a 2009 CRV, and I researched any problems it may have. I now know where to go if this problem arises, and how to fix it
For about 3 hours I was trying to get 1 screw out that was stripped. I seen you drill it but didn't understand how it could be usable is the other end of the screw is still in there. SMH then it dawned on me, I will no longer be needing that unit as the new unit has new threads lol what an idiot.
I've replaced all 4 of my lock to my doors. Honda only guarantees its for 12 months. But surprise suprise all 4 are bad now. Why can't these people make good parts that will last more than 1 year? BTW each lock cost me 300.00 from Honda!
Any suggestions on where to get parts for these doors that will last more than 1 year?
What size drill bit did you use?
Love the accent! From the north east I gather?!
Wish I had you as a car mechanic!!
You do good work buddy!
Accent what accent? Lol Thanks for watching.