For others watching: YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE DOOR HANDLE TO DO THIS, IT WILL MAKE THINGS 100X MORE DIFFICULT. I found other videos after I took it off showing this same procedure without having to do so. Now I can't get the dang thing on, and it has turned into a bigger issue at this point than the original problem.
For those who are struggling to remove the rod just a quick word of advise, you don’t need to remove the rod, I was experimenting with it today and it turns out that you can just separate the rod from the actuator, to do this, look to the *bottom* of the rod and locate the rubber that’s holding the rod and the actuator together, after you located it simply pull them apart, now at this stage I assume you have gotten out all the bolts and probably struggling to get the actuator out, my tip is to remove the child lock switch with a screw driver then try pulling it out. I hope this works have a great rest of your day!
*IMPORTANT TIP FOR ANYONE WATCHING:* Make sure the key lock that attaches down into the actuator itself is not twisted at all and rests EASILY by the hole where the handle goes without a bunch of tension swaying it to one side or the other (only gravity should effect it, if done correctly). If it is twisted, the key will not turn properly and the door will not unlock. It will also make a weird clicking noise when pulling the handle. This was the issue I ran into when replacing my wife’s driver side actuator tonight. Once I got that figured out, it was smooth sailing from there! Also, thank you guys so much for this video!! It was incredibly helpful!!!! :)
I took others advice and did not take the handle off. I also bought the M6 1.0x20mm (metric) (they didn't have 18mm) screws from Home Depot and they worked great! The original screws got damaged during their removal so having the replacements on hand was great! Getting the three screws out was the hardest part. After that, the hardest part was disconnecting the rod and also the "cable" that comes down from the key hole from the actuator while it was still inside the door. Over all not too difficult a job! Got it done in a little over an hour. Best of luck to others! I have a 2008.
That video helped me a lot. Thank you so much for sharing such a content. I watched other videos too while I was replacing the part but it just got too wrong. This video is the only video that should be watched from beginning to end if you people want to do the work right on your car. Thank you so much again
Great video. You made it look easy. Unfortunately, I messed it up somehow (twice). My install was for a 2011 Honda CR-V. The three screws on the side were a beast. I ended up drilling them out and replacing them with screws from Home Depot. The first actuator was a cheaply priced model courtesy of eBay ($30). Once I had finished installing it, the door locked and would not unlock. Luckily, the door was open when the lock engaged. Next, I purchased a modestly priced model from O'Reilly Auto Parts ($90), mainly because we need the vehicle to function, and O'Reilly's was the only place in town with one in stock. This time, the install was much faster having already done it once. After finishing this round, the door would not lock at all. Even when manually locking it from the inside it would automatically go back to the unlock position. Additionally, the key cylinder will not turn. Thanks again for the video, but I know when I have been defeated. I drop the vehicle off with the real mechanics tomorrow...
Very nice. To get the 3 screws that held the latch, I used an impact with a size 3 phillips. Don't use a smaller bit or you will strip them. It took a while to get those out. A normal phillips like he used didn't budge them.
Thanks for this great advice. I was able to replace the actuator on the right side. Next is the left side and those screws are really in there. Even with an impact screwdriver they will not budge. On the right side, I stripped out one screw but had to drill through it so that I can grab it with a screw removing tool by Irwin. What I’m noticing now is that the door handle is sticking out a little and will not return back in place. It’s no biggie because if someone is going to push handle to close door, it will return in place. Maybe the mechanism that holds that bar that goes up and down is dirty or somehow being pinned.
If you have an impact driver that may save you some hassle. Read on a car forum that some of these screws are very easy to destroy while trying to use only a screw driver.
Getting the rod off was definitely the hardest part. I wonder if the head of the rod is bigger on some models making it more difficult to dislodge. I stuck long needle nose pliers between the door frame and where the window lowers and rested on tip on the head of the rod and the other tip on the back of the black plastic part that surrounds the rod and latch. I slowly squeezed until the rod popped out. I also put electrical tape on one end of my pliers to prevent too damage to the part that was resting on the black plastic.
Great video! I followed all of the steps but ran into a brick wall with the lock mechanism. The lock is either stuck locked or unlocked depending on the way I twist it before attaching it. Is there a tip to getting this to be in neutral so that the door will unlock and lock? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
If you're doing this on a 2020 model, read below: -you don't really have to take off the corner piece at the beginning. -the lock cable is on the outside so less invasive than this model. -if I remember correctly, in total, you'll be removing 7 screws: -1 for the window mechanism to remove the panel -2 on the door handle mech (see orange circles) -4 for the door lock actuator (3 torque screws: T30, and one 10mm bolt) The rod doesn't have to be removed, just slide off to take the mechanism and slide back when replacing.
3 bolts seized up all of them, won't budge. I got an impact stew driver (one you got with a hammer ) and still get no movement at all. What would you do ? I don't wanna drill em, don't have extra bolts
The three screws that holds the latch to the door should be taken out with an impact screwdriver with a PH3 bit made Taking them out very easy Without damage
Very well done! Only issue I had was getting out those pesky white plastic clips out of the metal door without destroying them. I suggest either buying the tool shown in the video (towards the end) or having some extra clips on-hand before starting. I did find it easier to attach the rod to the exterior door handle after the handle was installed rather than before. I’m subscribing to this channel!
Shouldn’t use a Phillips screw driver on those three lock bolts. It’s a JIS+3 bolt. Get the “Vessel 4500 Power Grip +3x150 (JIS) +3 Screwdriver” on amazon to remove your door lock bolts. 5 taps with a gamer and a turn. Pops them off and no stripping. You’ll thank me.
For me my dashboard showed that my driver side door was open. The back roof light would turn on too. Your car also won’t be able to lock. if you manage to get the door closed and lock the car the door will eventually unlatch slightly and your car alarm will go off. It’s very annoying when one of these fails so If you don’t have any problems right now then yours is still good.
If the lock switch is hard to move or unlocks on its own you need it or will soon. If you have original speakers. Order some stock ones to replace while the door panel is off as well.
How do you get the door unlocked so I can use the video. My 2007 Honda CRV has the right rear door locked and it is the actuator but I cannot get to it with the door locked!!!!!! HELP
Not easy, the door needs to be opened to do the job. Could try banging the door while unlocking it to try and free off the sticky actuator. Getting the door panel off is not easy
On my Cecil, when I hit the lock button on my key the door most of the time will lock and when I hit unlock it will lock. I did find that when that happens and I want to lock I can hit the lock button on the key then unlock the car then relook and it will stay locked. Is the the part I need to replace?
J and R Garage yes that would be it. If you have an 07-09 CR-V, there may be a product update for it at the dealer. They will replace it free of charge if your vehicle falls under that product update. Just give your local dealership a call and provide your vin #.
It can no be found on your site. I order a lot of stuff from yall but it seems your having a web site problem. The search function does not pull anything. Just looking up broad searches like "DOOR" barley pulls anything up.
+Mac Newton I am not seeing that we carry the lock actuator for this vehicle at this time. We may have needed to remove it for a different project and decided to make a video about it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
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I can't find the part on your page
For others watching: YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE DOOR HANDLE TO DO THIS, IT WILL MAKE THINGS 100X MORE DIFFICULT. I found other videos after I took it off showing this same procedure without having to do so. Now I can't get the dang thing on, and it has turned into a bigger issue at this point than the original problem.
For those who are struggling to remove the rod just a quick word of advise, you don’t need to remove the rod, I was experimenting with it today and it turns out that you can just separate the rod from the actuator, to do this, look to the *bottom* of the rod and locate the rubber that’s holding the rod and the actuator together, after you located it simply pull them apart, now at this stage I assume you have gotten out all the bolts and probably struggling to get the actuator out, my tip is to remove the child lock switch with a screw driver then try pulling it out. I hope this works have a great rest of your day!
*IMPORTANT TIP FOR ANYONE WATCHING:* Make sure the key lock that attaches down into the actuator itself is not twisted at all and rests EASILY by the hole where the handle goes without a bunch of tension swaying it to one side or the other (only gravity should effect it, if done correctly). If it is twisted, the key will not turn properly and the door will not unlock. It will also make a weird clicking noise when pulling the handle.
This was the issue I ran into when replacing my wife’s driver side actuator tonight. Once I got that figured out, it was smooth sailing from there!
Also, thank you guys so much for this video!! It was incredibly helpful!!!! :)
I took others advice and did not take the handle off. I also bought the M6 1.0x20mm (metric) (they didn't have 18mm) screws from Home Depot and they worked great! The original screws got damaged during their removal so having the replacements on hand was great! Getting the three screws out was the hardest part. After that, the hardest part was disconnecting the rod and also the "cable" that comes down from the key hole from the actuator while it was still inside the door. Over all not too difficult a job! Got it done in a little over an hour. Best of luck to others! I have a 2008.
Super helpful, completely followed all the way through and replaced my actuator! It locks silently now, thanks!!
That video helped me a lot. Thank you so much for sharing such a content. I watched other videos too while I was replacing the part but it just got too wrong. This video is the only video that should be watched from beginning to end if you people want to do the work right on your car. Thank you so much again
+V G Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Agree completely. Each step was important
Great video. You made it look easy. Unfortunately, I messed it up somehow (twice). My install was for a 2011 Honda CR-V. The three screws on the side were a beast. I ended up drilling them out and replacing them with screws from Home Depot. The first actuator was a cheaply priced model courtesy of eBay ($30). Once I had finished installing it, the door locked and would not unlock. Luckily, the door was open when the lock engaged. Next, I purchased a modestly priced model from O'Reilly Auto Parts ($90), mainly because we need the vehicle to function, and O'Reilly's was the only place in town with one in stock. This time, the install was much faster having already done it once. After finishing this round, the door would not lock at all. Even when manually locking it from the inside it would automatically go back to the unlock position. Additionally, the key cylinder will not turn. Thanks again for the video, but I know when I have been defeated. I drop the vehicle off with the real mechanics tomorrow...
Update: Both actuators were bad.
Very nice. To get the 3 screws that held the latch, I used an impact with a size 3 phillips. Don't use a smaller bit or you will strip them. It took a while to get those out. A normal phillips like he used didn't budge them.
Did you use an impact wrench or a full air impact gun?
Better view of everything its why i prefer this video . im doing mine step by step with this video
+MacGyver B. Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Thanks for this great advice. I was able to replace the actuator on the right side. Next is the left side and those screws are really in there. Even with an impact screwdriver they will not budge. On the right side, I stripped out one screw but had to drill through it so that I can grab it with a screw removing tool by Irwin.
What I’m noticing now is that the door handle is sticking out a little and will not return back in place. It’s no biggie because if someone is going to push handle to close door, it will return in place. Maybe the mechanism that holds that bar that goes up and down is dirty or somehow being pinned.
Thanks for the video Used it to replace my actuator and worked great and was easy to follow !
If you have an impact driver that may save you some hassle. Read on a car forum that some of these screws are very easy to destroy while trying to use only a screw driver.
Fantastic step by step! Thank you.
Getting the rod off was definitely the hardest part. I wonder if the head of the rod is bigger on some models making it more difficult to dislodge. I stuck long needle nose pliers between the door frame and where the window lowers and rested on tip on the head of the rod and the other tip on the back of the black plastic part that surrounds the rod and latch. I slowly squeezed until the rod popped out. I also put electrical tape on one end of my pliers to prevent too damage to the part that was resting on the black plastic.
Wow.. removing the handle make this work more easier, I did it lke other videos showing but was very difficult to attach the part becauae not space.
few things missing, but a good start on getting in over the average head...
You don't show how to get the metal rod off the old one, and on top the new lock solenoid?? Any ideas?
Very helpful! Thanks!
Great video! I followed all of the steps but ran into a brick wall with the lock mechanism. The lock is either stuck locked or unlocked depending on the way I twist it before attaching it. Is there a tip to getting this to be in neutral so that the door will unlock and lock? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
Great video, very detailed and helpful!!!
You totally forgot to show removing the 2 cables from the latch assembly!
was just thinking that. Other video's show it, but this video is in good resolution
True! At least it was pretty straight forward to do, though!
Very helpful. Thank you for posting
Thank you. super useful video.
If you're doing this on a 2020 model, read below:
-you don't really have to take off the corner piece at the beginning.
-the lock cable is on the outside so less invasive than this model.
-if I remember correctly, in total, you'll be removing 7 screws:
-1 for the window mechanism to remove the panel
-2 on the door handle mech (see orange circles)
-4 for the door lock actuator (3 torque screws: T30, and one 10mm bolt)
The rod doesn't have to be removed, just slide off to take the mechanism and slide back when replacing.
3 bolts seized up all of them, won't budge. I got an impact stew driver (one you got with a hammer ) and still get no movement at all. What would you do ?
I don't wanna drill em, don't have extra bolts
The same thing happened to me. I drilled them and bought three new screws from Home Depot.
Yeah no way this guy removed them with a regular Phillips head and his own power. Impossible
great video. Thank you. First and LAST Honda.
Thanks for sharing!
The three screws that holds the latch to the door should be taken out with an impact screwdriver with a PH3 bit made Taking them out very easy Without damage
I give you 10/10 thanks
Very well done! Only issue I had was getting out those pesky white plastic clips out of the metal door without destroying them. I suggest either buying the tool shown in the video (towards the end) or having some extra clips on-hand before starting. I did find it easier to attach the rod to the exterior door handle after the handle was installed rather than before. I’m subscribing to this channel!
+Tony Brouillette Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am unable to do this myself. How much do you think a fair charge would be to have this done at a garage?
Am in need of this part for RHD.
Thanks a lot detail Video 1a. Quality auto parts
We buy your parts only
+Tai Tran Thank you for your feedback and your business!
Good video thanks
I tried to get this for my 2008 Honda crv I couldn't find it on your site. It also seems to search for parts on your site.
Dumb question, my rear door is not working, is this gonna fix that? The rear door doesn't lock sometimes
How do you remove the Window mechanical channel off? Without forcing it? @6:50
How much it’s the price for change this part
Shouldn’t use a Phillips screw driver on those three lock bolts. It’s a JIS+3 bolt. Get the “Vessel 4500 Power Grip +3x150 (JIS) +3 Screwdriver” on amazon to remove your door lock bolts. 5 taps with a gamer and a turn. Pops them off and no stripping. You’ll thank me.
how do you know when you need this done? and which door needs it?
For me my dashboard showed that my driver side door was open. The back roof light would turn on too. Your car also won’t be able to lock. if you manage to get the door closed and lock the car the door will eventually unlatch slightly and your car alarm will go off. It’s very annoying when one of these fails so If you don’t have any problems right now then yours is still good.
If the lock switch is hard to move or unlocks on its own you need it or will soon.
If you have original speakers. Order some stock ones to replace while the door panel is off as well.
How do you get the door unlocked so I can use the video. My 2007 Honda CRV has the right rear door locked and it is the actuator but I cannot get to it with the door locked!!!!!! HELP
Not easy, the door needs to be opened to do the job. Could try banging the door while unlocking it to try and free off the sticky actuator. Getting the door panel off is not easy
On my Cecil, when I hit the lock button on my key the door most of the time will lock and when I hit unlock it will lock. I did find that when that happens and I want to lock I can hit the lock button on the key then unlock the car then relook and it will stay locked. Is the the part I need to replace?
J and R Garage yes that would be it. If you have an 07-09 CR-V, there may be a product update for it at the dealer. They will replace it free of charge if your vehicle falls under that product update. Just give your local dealership a call and provide your vin #.
My door is stuck on lock so I can't open the door.
How much does this cost?
It can no be found on your site. I order a lot of stuff from yall but it seems your having a web site problem. The search function does not pull anything. Just looking up broad searches like "DOOR" barley pulls anything up.
+Mac Newton I am not seeing that we carry the lock actuator for this vehicle at this time. We may have needed to remove it for a different project and decided to make a video about it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Crv not Cecil