Here’s what you need to do. Take the smart choke mechanism off and throw it in the trash. You still have the wind vane choke and that’s all you need. Bend the metal rod just enough so that the choke is almost completely closed when the wind vane is relaxed. And fully open when you move the wind vane away from the flywheel. It works perfectly and you don’t need that ridiculous electric choke. I’ve done this to about 15 of these engines. It works great.
LMAO, i agree with this Smart Choke being a DUMB CHOKE...THEY SUCK. I just spent 4 days working on one. Check your Oil Pressure Switch, If thats bad, it wont let your thermostat work because the thermostat draws power from your Oil Pressure Switch
Own this mower the spindles are shit the belt like to kick of the front pulley in tall grass I drilled a hole next to it and put a bolt directly next to it and bam no more belt jumping off
I never had any problem with belt coming off the pully in high grass. It did pretty good. I know on one lawn mower I had I ran it without the guard over one of the outside pulleys. It would jump sometimes then. And when I put the cover back on it never jumped after that. Couple of other ideas. Is the belt tensioner set right. Or has the belt stretched out and it's too long.
My choke not shutting all the way won’t cold start, watched a video said to adjust throttle cable and thought it was fixed but have close choke by hand with choke linkage, please help kholer 7000 zt1
Looks like some comments were saying if oil pressure switch is bad then the choke won't work properly. Did you check the ohms and the voltage. I also took the plastic cover off from around the carburetor and cleaned the choke plate. It was sticky a little bit.
You know how when rivets get loose. Both pieces separate some. The separation I believe, when the motor was hot and turned off. I went to restart it. The play in the rivet caused the throat plate to stay open by just millimeters. The throat plate was closed part way but needed to be closed a little bit more to start the motor. I was manually using my finger closed the choke plate. When I first started having the problem it would start most of the times. And sometimes I would have to put my finger on the choke plate to start it. and after quite some time it was every time I shut the motor off to get it to go again I had to put my finger on the choke plate. Im not an expert. There may be something else wrong. But if you seen a new part against the old part. I would say that was compromising the smart choke system.
Here’s what you need to do. Take the smart choke mechanism off and throw it in the trash. You still have the wind vane choke and that’s all you need. Bend the metal rod just enough so that the choke is almost completely closed when the wind vane is relaxed. And fully open when you move the wind vane away from the flywheel. It works perfectly and you don’t need that ridiculous electric choke. I’ve done this to about 15 of these engines. It works great.
Good info, that oil pressure switch will cause some start issues on a cold start. Had to replace my after 3 years of light use.
thanks a lot, helped me in many ways.
Thanks this was my problem.
Nice Video I’m having the same issue thanks.
LMAO, i agree with this Smart Choke being a DUMB CHOKE...THEY SUCK. I just spent 4 days working on one. Check your Oil Pressure Switch, If thats bad, it wont let your thermostat work because the thermostat draws power from your Oil Pressure Switch
Before you changed the choke did the engine spit and sputter like it was choking itself and never start until hours later when it cooled down?
Very good thank you
Own this mower the spindles are shit the belt like to kick of the front pulley in tall grass I drilled a hole next to it and put a bolt directly next to it and bam no more belt jumping off
I never had any problem with belt coming off the pully in high grass. It did pretty good. I know on one lawn mower I had I ran it without the guard over one of the outside pulleys. It would jump sometimes then. And when I put the cover back on it never jumped after that. Couple of other ideas. Is the belt tensioner set right. Or has the belt stretched out and it's too long.
My choke not shutting all the way won’t cold start, watched a video said to adjust throttle cable and thought it was fixed but have close choke by hand with choke linkage, please help kholer 7000 zt1
Looks like some comments were saying if oil pressure switch is bad then the choke won't work properly. Did you check the ohms and the voltage. I also took the plastic cover off from around the carburetor and cleaned the choke plate. It was sticky a little bit.
I can't seem to find that part on Amazon... Could you post a link to the thermostat assembly?
I got it from e bay
Ok. Thank you
at 4:40 into the video looks like a rivet is gone that holds that plate from moving, ??
It wasn't missing. It was loosing up. To where there was millimeter or two of play.
what was the stuf that fell out of the thermostat?
Fine particles of grass. Perhaps sand also
Want play?
You know how when rivets get loose. Both pieces separate some. The separation I believe, when the motor was hot and turned off. I went to restart it. The play in the rivet caused the throat plate to stay open by just millimeters. The throat plate was closed part way but needed to be closed a little bit more to start the motor. I was manually using my finger closed the choke plate. When I first started having the problem it would start most of the times. And sometimes I would have to put my finger on the choke plate to start it. and after quite some time it was every time I shut the motor off to get it to go again I had to put my finger on the choke plate. Im not an expert. There may be something else wrong. But if you seen a new part against the old part. I would say that was compromising the smart choke system.