OK, tool is a little easier but once I was in a hurry. I put 2 rods in a vice vertical, pulled down on the gun. If you have a vice,,, and it works like standing up the tool on the bench. I had some 1/8" sq keyway stock, fit well. Great video, thank you.
Keyway stock! Hey, another workable prong possibility gets added to the tool makeup list. How does that compare to 1/8" steel rod price and availabilty?
Thanks so much for the instructions on how to build and use the Mainspring Compressor tool. I built one today with welding rods and successfully used it on my recently purchased Daisy Model 95. It was easy, even without a vise. Steve
@@inthebackyardwithdel438 The intent is to get every rusty Leagacy Daisy hiding in Grandma's closet back out in the field doing what they were designed to do. I can't possibly mod them all, there's an estimated 9 million Red Ryders out there alone. That means that you guys will have to do most of the work and make sure that the memories you have of your time with those gems of your youth get replicated by your kids and most importantly, your grandkids. That's why the video library is there, to give ya'll a blue print on how to make that happen.
your video gave me the idea to make a better tool thank you for the great video and we will see where you inspiring video takes me on making a awsome tool!
I use the pvc design once inside frame it's stable enough cut away is always helpful to reference. And the 'super spring" is always the funnest to deal with. The culk gun compresser is a must for any builder as well. I want to make a different compression tool though. Happy plinking Wolf
Hello Sir, Thanks for all of the great videos! Using them I was able to change out the spring and seals in an old Model 96. That thing probably hasn't shot that well in 40+ years!
Hi thanks for all the information you share and dont stop showing us the Nice work you been doing .I got a daisy red rider 111 model 40 plymouth Michigan register no 118980 witch I think is a 1952 .I made a new stock and forgrip out of Tiger oak I salvage from a mission style Coffee table .file the aluminum lever .I need now à cobalt327 super spring the 7/64 air tube ,the no25 shot tube and the seal and abutment washer . Thanks Pierre
@@RestOModDaisy Excellent news! I didn't have much luck using it on the modern guns, it got hung on the tabs on the bottom of the casing, but I only tried it with one. Seems to be perfect for the older plunger casings. Hopefully you'll be able to copy it without much trouble. Enjoy!
@@mistercapnjoe I've been using it on a 105B I'm piddling with. I thought the probe's legs shaving on the inner support legs was a design feature, not bug! Ultimate custom fit!
@@RestOModDaisy It took me a little while to get it to work correctly. You'll perfect it, I have no doubt. The more I used it the easier it was to slide over the end of the casing. I'm curious to see what they use in the Daisy factory. It's got to be better than what we use. I have an idea to use the long cut out part of the casing as a compression tool, but I'm loathe to destroy one for the experiment. If the legs were bent just right I'll bet it'd work like a charm. It makes sense to me...
@@mistercapnjoe The first one of these compression tools I saw was in a service manual for the Daisy Model 25 that Daisy published back in the 1950's. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of it but it was a wooden handle with two metal prongs.
About your compression tool... I made a secondary tool from grey wire conduit. The plastic variety. I displayed it on my IG account if you remember. It's thick enough to resist the deformation you experienced with that metal conduit. It looks a lot like your third effort with the way I shaped the cutout. Only difference is I added little bumps at the end so it would always maintain contact with the spring. I'll send it to you with your teeth, for so you can eyeball it real good like. Keep up the engaging work! I'm riveted.
I remember that. Another reason to make a list before you go to the store, I walked right by the plastic on my way to the metal conduit. That material should slide over the steel a little easier as well.
I am about to attempt to build a tool. I noticed that the back of the plunger is slightly wider than the front. It appears that your rods are parallel. I was thinking of angling them in so they are closer together when they get to the spring. Did you do that? Do you think it might help?
@ I’ll let you know if it works. I got a 1/8 steel rod. The welding rods were $25.00 for a pack! I discovered the air tube in my Model 94 does not move when I cock the gun. Everything sounds good but I don’t think any air is coming out the tube! I did order seals/ cup from Cobalt327. Also have a spare new Model 25 shot tube coming from Daisy. Worst case it will be a spare for my new Model 25, but I am thinking it might screw into my Model 94. I am guessing you know the answer.
@@dandypoint The airtube should drop back into the compression chamber with the plunger when the gun is cocked. Once you get it apart you'll find out what's going on. The model 25 shot tube will screw into the Model 94 abutment washer but will leave a small gap between the end of the shot tube and the end of the barrel shroud, that's why I fab up those copper caps to cover the gap.
Great video loved it. I am making one with some stick welding rods I found in my garage with some scape wood I have. Going to mod a Red Ryder and be like RestOModMan LOL. Keep up the great work.
It depends on what you're looking for. I get my hotrod parts from Cobalt 327 over on the 'Bay but do occasionally sell some vintage parts. Send me an email and I'll send you the price list.
Hi Shane - In case you don't have one, you should get a streamlight stylus penlight with the 7 inch extension cable - tiny light on a extension, great for seeing inside the gun and probably would help with camera work as well. About 20 bucks. Keep saving daisy's from the trash heap!
Glen, I got one of those fiber optic cameras that you can poke down inside stuff to make videos with. Everything was fine until my erstwhile son decided to watch a compression stoke in one of his Honda's. I gotta get another one, it's Christmas!
Well this video did help me figuring out wich one id need but I am kinda sad my cheap idea might not work great... _[Maybe pvc is harder than metal who knows...]_
Jim, The spring will fit but the seals are a different diameter and will not exchange. The model 111 spring is the same as the Red Ryder spring and both are not as powerful as an unsacked original #111 Model 40 spring.
Hi Shane, thanks sooo much for your answer to my query, and for all your great videos! My gun is firing much better. I'm now ordering parts from JG Airguns. The only plunger assembly they have for my 111-40 from Plymouth, MI. (DAI111PA) shows a plastic/rubber top hat seal, not leather. Does this replace the leather?
It can but will require an airtube as well. If you swap in current production components you will also need the flattened or oval plunger pin as the new airtube does away with the original top hat. Current production Model 25 compression seals and abutment seals are used for this conversion.
Some clarification is required. You removed the spring stop and pulled plunger assembly out of the receiver but the compression cup and airtube stayed put? If you have some pix, send them to me at "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" and we'll see if we can figure out what happened.
Liam, depends on which model Daisy you're working with and which components you swap. On a current production Red Ryder with the plastic trigger, the mainspring replacement coupled with an overbore 7/74" airtube should take the gun from 250-260 PFS to 324+FPS. If you have an older steel trigger model with the bottle cap shot tube and do the same swap on the mainspring/airtube combo, new seals and a Model 25 shot tube you have a good chance of breaking 350 FPS, especially with a post 1958 Red Ryder or Model 111.
OK, tool is a little easier but once I was in a hurry. I put 2 rods in a vice vertical, pulled down on the gun. If you have a vice,,, and it works like standing up the tool on the bench. I had some 1/8" sq keyway stock, fit well.
Great video, thank you.
Keyway stock! Hey, another workable prong possibility gets added to the tool makeup list. How does that compare to 1/8" steel rod price and availabilty?
Thanks so much for the instructions on how to build and use the Mainspring Compressor tool. I built one today with welding rods and successfully used it on my recently purchased Daisy Model 95. It was easy, even without a vise. Steve
Thanks!
Thank you for the DIY video .
Thanks for watching!
@ yes sir , you are my go to channel for redoing my daisy . You have awesome videos . 👍🏻🇺🇸
@@inthebackyardwithdel438 The intent is to get every rusty Leagacy Daisy hiding in Grandma's closet back out in the field doing what they were designed to do. I can't possibly mod them all, there's an estimated 9 million Red Ryders out there alone. That means that you guys will have to do most of the work and make sure that the memories you have of your time with those gems of your youth get replicated by your kids and most importantly, your grandkids. That's why the video library is there, to give ya'll a blue print on how to make that happen.
your video gave me the idea to make a better tool thank you for the great video and we will see where you inspiring video takes me on making a awsome tool!
Just found your channel. I am playing around with a few old daisy’s currently. I have a 95,98 &99
I found your channel last week during my Daisy search on the 'Tubes. Thanks for dropping by and commenting. You have some absolutely killer 22 rifles!
I believe I subscribed because of you Nibs!
_Thanks for making me watch too much youtube by posting too many videos and sharing other channels haha_
I use the pvc design once inside frame it's stable enough cut away is always helpful to reference. And the 'super spring" is always the funnest to deal with. The culk gun compresser is a must for any builder as well. I want to make a different compression tool though. Happy plinking
Wolf
Great video! I have a 102 model 36 from the 60's. Got it when I was 6 years old. Was able to change the inner parts with your help. Thank you!!
Hello Sir, Thanks for all of the great videos! Using them I was able to change out the spring and seals in an old Model 96. That thing probably hasn't shot that well in 40+ years!
Travis, congrats on modding your Daisy. I love messages like yours.
Hi thanks for all the information you share and dont stop showing us the Nice work you been doing .I got a daisy red rider 111 model 40 plymouth Michigan register no 118980 witch I think is a 1952 .I made a new stock and forgrip out of Tiger oak I salvage from a mission style Coffee table .file the aluminum lever .I need now à cobalt327 super spring the 7/64 air tube ,the no25 shot tube and the seal and abutment washer . Thanks
Pierre
I'd love to see some pix of the stock. Figured Oak has got to be nearly impossible to work. Get the rest of your build done and do some shootin'!
I just threw two welding rods in a vise about 5/8 apart and used that. First time Disassembling, quick and easy.
That is a stout handle!
I love that tool! I'm very thankful for it.
Joe, I just got the shark teeth and the poly mainspring compressor in. The poly tool is a real winner!
@@RestOModDaisy Excellent news! I didn't have much luck using it on the modern guns, it got hung on the tabs on the bottom of the casing, but I only tried it with one. Seems to be perfect for the older plunger casings. Hopefully you'll be able to copy it without much trouble. Enjoy!
@@mistercapnjoe I've been using it on a 105B I'm piddling with. I thought the probe's legs shaving on the inner support legs was a design feature, not bug! Ultimate custom fit!
@@RestOModDaisy It took me a little while to get it to work correctly. You'll perfect it, I have no doubt.
The more I used it the easier it was to slide over the end of the casing. I'm curious to see what they use in the Daisy factory. It's got to be better than what we use. I have an idea to use the long cut out part of the casing as a compression tool, but I'm loathe to destroy one for the experiment. If the legs were bent just right I'll bet it'd work like a charm. It makes sense to me...
@@mistercapnjoe The first one of these compression tools I saw was in a service manual for the Daisy Model 25 that Daisy published back in the 1950's. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of it but it was a wooden handle with two metal prongs.
I made one 3 days ago. For my handle I used plywood and it worked great
Nice to make your own tools ain't it?
About your compression tool... I made a secondary tool from grey wire conduit. The plastic variety. I displayed it on my IG account if you remember.
It's thick enough to resist the deformation you experienced with that metal conduit. It looks a lot like your third effort with the way I shaped the cutout. Only difference is I added little bumps at the end so it would always maintain contact with the spring. I'll send it to you with your teeth, for so you can eyeball it real good like.
Keep up the engaging work! I'm riveted.
I remember that. Another reason to make a list before you go to the store, I walked right by the plastic on my way to the metal conduit. That material should slide over the steel a little easier as well.
I am about to attempt to build a tool. I noticed that the back of the plunger is slightly wider than the front. It appears that your rods are parallel. I was thinking of angling them in so they are closer together when they get to the spring. Did you do that? Do you think it might help?
It might, but it will also make it more fiddly trying to get past the backplate. I never tried an off set.
@ I’ll let you know if it works. I got a 1/8 steel rod. The welding rods were $25.00 for a pack!
I discovered the air tube in my Model 94 does not move when I cock the gun. Everything sounds good but I don’t think any air is coming out the tube! I did order seals/ cup from Cobalt327. Also have a spare new Model 25 shot tube coming from Daisy. Worst case it will be a spare for my new Model 25, but I am thinking it might screw into my Model 94. I am guessing you know the answer.
@@dandypoint The airtube should drop back into the compression chamber with the plunger when the gun is cocked. Once you get it apart you'll find out what's going on. The model 25 shot tube will screw into the Model 94 abutment washer but will leave a small gap between the end of the shot tube and the end of the barrel shroud, that's why I fab up those copper caps to cover the gap.
Great video loved it. I am making one with some stick welding rods I found in my garage with some scape wood I have. Going to mod a Red Ryder and be like RestOModMan LOL. Keep up the great work.
Go for it Henry!
How does fellow go about ordering parts from you?
It depends on what you're looking for. I get my hotrod parts from Cobalt 327 over on the 'Bay but do occasionally sell some vintage parts. Send me an email and I'll send you the price list.
Hi Shane - In case you don't have one, you should get a streamlight stylus penlight with the 7 inch extension cable - tiny light on a extension, great for seeing inside the gun and probably would help with camera work as well. About 20 bucks. Keep saving daisy's from the trash heap!
Glen, I got one of those fiber optic cameras that you can poke down inside stuff to make videos with. Everything was fine until my erstwhile son decided to watch a compression stoke in one of his Honda's. I gotta get another one, it's Christmas!
the heavy wire handle for a 5 gallon bucket makes a decent set of rods,
straightening isn't too tough, do that part before cutting shorter sections.
That's easier to source than welding rods.
Well this video did help me figuring out wich one id need but I am kinda sad my cheap idea might not work great...
_[Maybe pvc is harder than metal who knows...]_
And does the abutment leather seal need to be changed to work with the plastic/rubber top hat air tube seal on the plunger assembly (DAI111PA)
Yep. If you're planning to change the top hat to a synthetic than you should get the synthetic seal as part of the set.
does the plunger spring on the 111 also fit the 111-40?
Jim, The spring will fit but the seals are a different diameter and will not exchange. The model 111 spring is the same as the Red Ryder spring and both are not as powerful as an unsacked original #111 Model 40 spring.
Hi Shane, thanks sooo much for your answer to my query, and for all your great videos! My gun is firing much better. I'm now ordering parts from JG Airguns. The only plunger assembly they have for my 111-40 from Plymouth, MI. (DAI111PA) shows a plastic/rubber top hat seal, not leather. Does this replace the leather?
It can but will require an airtube as well. If you swap in current production components you will also need the flattened or oval plunger pin as the new airtube does away with the original top hat. Current production Model 25 compression seals and abutment seals are used for this conversion.
Hey , I took inside out of my model 94 daisy but plunger mechanism did not come out. Is that normal for some ?
Some clarification is required. You removed the spring stop and pulled plunger assembly out of the receiver but the compression cup and airtube stayed put? If you have some pix, send them to me at "thesocietyforprofit@gmail.com" and we'll see if we can figure out what happened.
Whats the FPS of the upgrades
Liam, depends on which model Daisy you're working with and which components you swap. On a current production Red Ryder with the plastic trigger, the mainspring replacement coupled with an overbore 7/74" airtube should take the gun from 250-260 PFS to 324+FPS. If you have an older steel trigger model with the bottle cap shot tube and do the same swap on the mainspring/airtube combo, new seals and a Model 25 shot tube you have a good chance of breaking 350 FPS, especially with a post 1958 Red Ryder or Model 111.