I have been looking forward to you sharing your fire blue technique. I have a painted ebay special Daisy that I got to try stuff like this on, before trying it on something nicer. Thank you for sharing.
I didn’t realize until you were to the end of the first side that it is only the heat, and no blueing chemicals to be used. I wonder, could I practice on some conduit to learn the technique? Also, I’m curious why you never work on Model 25s?
I don't know if conduit would be the best material to practice on. If there's any galvanized finish on it that burns off the fumes can kill you. Daisy recievers are pretty thin metal and they'll run up through the color spectrum fairly quickly with a standard propane torch, conduit might the best substitute as the wall thickness is greater, meaning you'll have to spend more dwell time to see the color shift. I'd just get an older beat up Daisy and practice on it, once you've fireblued it you can knock the oxide off with a wire wheel and have another go a it. I don't work on Model 25's routinly as they are an absolute bear to reassemble.
Great! How do uou do the 1938b with the plastic loading gate that I saw in video where you said dont remove that because it is easily broken. I imagine you have to remove to keep from melting?
You have a couple of options, first being to have a spare on hand so that when you do break it during removal you can install the the new one. Installin one is a lot easier that getting the old one out.
Hello Shane.I have a question. After the peice has cooled down ive noticed some spots that are uneven.Can you simply just go back over the spots that needed a little more heat to attempt to make everything match? Or do I just have to start over 🤔
You can reheat the mismatched places and see if you can get a closer match or wire wheel it off and have another go. A lot of times on the first attempt I'll get discoloration from oil/grease on the inside of the reciever that leaks out through the seams on the barrel shroud and they'll make for differing shades of blue/purple/straw. I always let them cool after fire bluing and then put a coat of oil on them to see what they look like before re-firebluing.
None so far and I've done about 60 or so of these. It's a controlled heat application to get the steel up to about 550 degrees to induce an oxide coat.
I have yet to do this but I am curious if you have done this to a wide frame. I have a 99 that I really want to to blue and send pics of it to previous owner. He was retiring had it from. Like 13 and I feel I owe it to the gun to make her shine.
Thanks! The current production Model 25 50 round springloaded shot tube will fit if used with a 3/4" copper coupler cut to an appropriate length and the most common of the original Daisy Bottlecap shot tubes should fit with out couplers.
@@RestOModDaisy Thank You.I just bought one off line and the pictures weren't up to par so I'm not quite sure it will have one when I get it.But got it cheap enough so not complaining. Also when you let the gun cool and hit it with flame the second time is there still a color line to follow and I'm assuming it makes it a darker blue when completed?
@@russellhorner4950 The color line is not as obvious on the second pass and I find that it's necessary to rotate the work under a good light source to follow it. Repeated passes to not guarantee darker colors in my experience, if anything you'll see more purples as well as some straws due to repeated heating, an effect that I like.
Yes, otherwise you'll really regret it as they char up or melt down. Do pull the abutment seal before fire bluing a pre 1978 Daisy and pull the shot tube assembly from any post 1978 Daisy as their plastics will melt.
Thanks for this! Very helpful
Thanks!
I have been looking forward to you sharing your fire blue technique. I have a painted ebay special Daisy that I got to try stuff like this on, before trying it on something nicer. Thank you for sharing.
I didn’t realize until you were to the end of the first side that it is only the heat, and no blueing chemicals to be used. I wonder, could I practice on some conduit to learn the technique? Also, I’m curious why you never work on Model 25s?
I don't know if conduit would be the best material to practice on. If there's any galvanized finish on it that burns off the fumes can kill you. Daisy recievers are pretty thin metal and they'll run up through the color spectrum fairly quickly with a standard propane torch, conduit might the best substitute as the wall thickness is greater, meaning you'll have to spend more dwell time to see the color shift. I'd just get an older beat up Daisy and practice on it, once you've fireblued it you can knock the oxide off with a wire wheel and have another go a it. I don't work on Model 25's routinly as they are an absolute bear to reassemble.
Great! How do uou do the 1938b with the plastic loading gate that I saw in video where you said dont remove that because it is easily broken. I imagine you have to remove to keep from melting?
You have a couple of options, first being to have a spare on hand so that when you do break it during removal you can install the the new one. Installin one is a lot easier that getting the old one out.
@@RestOModDaisythank you!
Hello Shane.I have a question. After the peice has cooled down ive noticed some spots that are uneven.Can you simply just go back over the spots that needed a little more heat to attempt to make everything match? Or do I just have to start over 🤔
You can reheat the mismatched places and see if you can get a closer match or wire wheel it off and have another go. A lot of times on the first attempt I'll get discoloration from oil/grease on the inside of the reciever that leaks out through the seams on the barrel shroud and they'll make for differing shades of blue/purple/straw. I always let them cool after fire bluing and then put a coat of oil on them to see what they look like before re-firebluing.
Looks good - really like how the markings don't get muddled with paint. 🤠👍
great workshop!!
No problems with warping doing that? Or not that critical?
None so far and I've done about 60 or so of these. It's a controlled heat application to get the steel up to about 550 degrees to induce an oxide coat.
@@RestOModDaisy Thanks, the results look good.
This looks great, but does this provide any protection to the metal? Does this impart any rust resistance?
Carl, it's an oxide coat and will provide protection against surface rust but it must be kept oiled like any other finish.
I have yet to do this but I am curious if you have done this to a wide frame. I have a 99 that I really want to to blue and send pics of it to previous owner. He was retiring had it from. Like 13 and I feel I owe it to the gun to make her shine.
Magical.
Hi Shane After you fire blue a daisy is it a good idea to put a little oil on it after it cools george (old george)
George, Sure is, just be sure it's completely cooled down before you apply any oil.
Very cool best video off fire bluing I've seen. By the way what shot tubes will fit a model 98?
Thanks! The current production Model 25 50 round springloaded shot tube will fit if used with a 3/4" copper coupler cut to an appropriate length and the most common of the original Daisy Bottlecap shot tubes should fit with out couplers.
@@RestOModDaisy Thank You.I just bought one off line and the pictures weren't up to par so I'm not quite sure it will have one when I get it.But got it cheap enough so not complaining. Also when you let the gun cool and hit it with flame the second time is there still a color line to follow and I'm assuming it makes it a darker blue when completed?
@@russellhorner4950 The color line is not as obvious on the second pass and I find that it's necessary to rotate the work under a good light source to follow it. Repeated passes to not guarantee darker colors in my experience, if anything you'll see more purples as well as some straws due to repeated heating, an effect that I like.
You must have the abutment seal out?
Yes, otherwise you'll really regret it as they char up or melt down. Do pull the abutment seal before fire bluing a pre 1978 Daisy and pull the shot tube assembly from any post 1978 Daisy as their plastics will melt.