Thanks man, I have been thinking about lowering my grandfather’s old 77 that I have been working on for the last 3 years. It’s definitely been a journey
She looks good Bud I did mine but put cal tracs on it There are 2 dimples in the shock crossmember i drilled them out and it moves the shock angle out at the top Kool old truck
about the lean, all the weight in these trucks is on the driver side, fuel tank, steering box battery etc and obviously the driver, more weight and stress is put on the driver side
Diff. Gen. Points down some comp. To the trans. Because under acceleration the pinion pivots upwards ! Your shocks need ta be shorter also ! I have a 84 with a big block & a 9 " ford rear mounted about the same with some lowering blocks !
As far as I've herd that they sit more on that side cause of our roads not being 100% flat, so the truck never sits flat until on a shop floor or parking lot then you see the lean
Every one of my 2wd trucks has had the lean. You can really see it on this one tho going down the road, hopefully it’s not a twisted frame. Maybe too much torque from the slant six haha
🤣😂... I'm pretty sure physics is the reason most vehicles lean to the driver's side. To date anyway, vehicles all have drivers... more load on one side of the vehicle, over the life of the vehicle equals a lower ride hight on the driver's side... great video BTW. I have shot a couple of diy "Shorts", and it isn't nearly so simple as it looks. Great job.
I am so glad I found your channel. Going to tackle this on my ‘84 D100. You are great at explaining this - definitely the best I have seen on the process and not skipping details. Thank you Also, what part of Sask are you in? Looks like North Battleford area. I am from PA originally.
Well done 👍 u did fine on being very informative to do the job! I don’t know why the dodges are always lower on drivers side but they always are like you say ..maybe the gas tank an battery more stuff on that side idk .. an they always put such a massive rake on them too aT the back.. even with the trucks of my era which is. 2002 the rake was jus awfull high at rear .. I lowered my with different leaf packs at rear that will give me a 4 inch drop an front still has original spring height but are new .. I may need to bring it down some yet .. with those van parts you showed in a video of how to do the front.. but your way is much better on wallet 👍jus I’m wheelchair bound so I took that way for feeling like it was a little less work as in no welding an such like that for me to have to do 👍you should do alot more videoing of all your work your going to do on it or any of your mopar stuff .. they will do well an your channel will grow quite quick .. anything to do with mopar seems like it isn’t out there as much .. plus you do good at camera angle/shots an all love the paint scheme on the truck 👍this truck could be your channel grower for ya.. big time, not sure but if you put on Instagram an Facebook advertising your RUclips channel, but if you did I thing it would be a big go !! 👍cheers 👍
Thanks, I’m trying to get better. I do enjoy the process. And if I can help one person im happy with that. I haven’t really advertised my channel, as im not a huge self promoter, but maybe I should give it a little more effort. I certainly have plenty of projects on the go so there will be more Mopar content coming. Awesome to hear the wheelchair isn’t holding you back from hot rodding!
Really good video description of the process. Was that an actual camera or your phone? The video was really nice for what seemed like low light shooting in the garage and under the "Orange Crush". I'm working on a 92' D150. About to take on new window felt, regulator and power switches x2. Not looking forward to it.
Most of it is shot with my iPhone 12pro max, haha. I do use a GoPro once in awhile. Window felts aren’t so bad on these trucks, the old window switches always irritated me with how the power is connected. I always fight to unplug them.
@@moparmuscle123 thanks for the response man. That makes me a lot more confident about sourcing parts and tackling this project because I already have everything else I need.
@@ThePostZenith it’s a pretty straight forward deal, I think the rear is something that intimidates people but if a guy takes his time it’s not so bad. It’s definitely worth the work.
The (in)famous Dodge Lean. I think in all honesty its because you have the gas tank mounted on the driver's side, and a tank o' gas plus the driver's weight just causes them to sag on that side. IF, if you remove a coil out of the spring on that side, it kinda evens out. I like your video Part 1 and have thus subscribed. Even though I know how to do this, the part about radiusing the rear pivot point on the van LCA was a good idea and, of all the videos I've watched about this procedure, was the first time mentioned.
I agree all the extra weight would easily account for it. I find a lot of these trucks got worked hard too so the springs are generally sagged out. I have seen 2 frames that had bent cab mounts on the driver side which made it look like a lean but the box was straight.
@@moparmuscle123 right? I recently saved an 87 D150 (LXE) from the crusher. It was parked for 4 yrs. 134k on the speedo. Went to put some front shocks on, drivers side coil spring has a twist in coil helper. Everything else on this truck is straight except that spring.
Maybe someone can answer this for me, but should the angle of the diff be set with wheels on and the truck sitting on the ground? Wouldn’t you want your suspension at normal ride height to adjust the angle? And with that being said should you lower the front first to get the proper angle for the rear diff and tranny?
As long as the weight is on the axles you are okay. If you want 100 percent true, yes, you need the frame level, but measuring this way compensates for that as you are measuring with the truck static and not changing the frame angle. (Is this making sense?) In short YES. this works so long as you don't alter the frame angle by jacking it up or lowering it between measurements.
Авто/Мото
Thanks man, I have been thinking about lowering my grandfather’s old 77 that I have been working on for the last 3 years. It’s definitely been a journey
Saw this for sale a few months back. Nice truck
you explained driveshaft angle perfectly
We would cut rivits holding front and rear spring hangers off and remount them higher on the frame to lower read of trucks
Thanks very much another good video and very helpful, looking forward to lowering my D soon!
She looks good Bud I did mine but put cal tracs on it There are 2 dimples in the shock crossmember i drilled them out and it moves the shock angle out at the top Kool old truck
Great info. Thanks for sharing!
about the lean, all the weight in these trucks is on the driver side, fuel tank, steering box battery etc and obviously the driver, more weight and stress is put on the driver side
Great stuff man. I have built many chev, but just starting on my first dodge. I would be interested in chatting with you about some questions I have
Diff. Gen. Points down some comp. To the trans. Because under acceleration the pinion pivots upwards ! Your shocks need ta be shorter also ! I have a 84 with a big block & a 9 " ford rear mounted about the same with some lowering blocks !
As far as I've herd that they sit more on that side cause of our roads not being 100% flat, so the truck never sits flat until on a shop floor or parking lot then you see the lean
Every one of my 2wd trucks has had the lean. You can really see it on this one tho going down the road, hopefully it’s not a twisted frame. Maybe too much torque from the slant six haha
🤣😂... I'm pretty sure physics is the reason most vehicles lean to the driver's side. To date anyway, vehicles all have drivers... more load on one side of the vehicle, over the life of the vehicle equals a lower ride hight on the driver's side... great video BTW. I have shot a couple of diy "Shorts", and it isn't nearly so simple as it looks. Great job.
Just subscribed, have to binge now
good stuff I really liked both videos
Thanks. Hopefully I can keep getting better and put out some decent content
great job
Bad to the bone!!! Nice work!!!
I am so glad I found your channel. Going to tackle this on my ‘84 D100. You are great at explaining this - definitely the best I have seen on the process and not skipping details. Thank you
Also, what part of Sask are you in? Looks like North Battleford area. I am from PA originally.
Yep, I’m in Battleford.
If you have any questions I’ll do my best to help. Thanks for the kind words
Well done 👍 u did fine on being very informative to do the job! I don’t know why the dodges are always lower on drivers side but they always are like you say ..maybe the gas tank an battery more stuff on that side idk .. an they always put such a massive rake on them too aT the back.. even with the trucks of my era which is. 2002 the rake was jus awfull high at rear .. I lowered my with different leaf packs at rear that will give me a 4 inch drop an front still has original spring height but are new .. I may need to bring it down some yet .. with those van parts you showed in a video of how to do the front.. but your way is much better on wallet 👍jus I’m wheelchair bound so I took that way for feeling like it was a little less work as in no welding an such like that for me to have to do 👍you should do alot more videoing of all your work your going to do on it or any of your mopar stuff .. they will do well an your channel will grow quite quick .. anything to do with mopar seems like it isn’t out there as much .. plus you do good at camera angle/shots an all love the paint scheme on the truck 👍this truck could be your channel grower for ya.. big time, not sure but if you put on Instagram an Facebook advertising your RUclips channel, but if you did I thing it would be a big go !! 👍cheers 👍
Thanks, I’m trying to get better. I do enjoy the process. And if I can help one person im happy with that.
I haven’t really advertised my channel, as im not a huge self promoter, but maybe I should give it a little more effort.
I certainly have plenty of projects on the go so there will be more Mopar content coming.
Awesome to hear the wheelchair isn’t holding you back from hot rodding!
All the weight is on the drivers side.Battery driver gas tank ect.
Really good video description of the process. Was that an actual camera or your phone? The video was really nice for what seemed like low light shooting in the garage and under the "Orange Crush". I'm working on a 92' D150. About to take on new window felt, regulator and power switches x2. Not looking forward to it.
Most of it is shot with my iPhone 12pro max, haha. I do use a GoPro once in awhile.
Window felts aren’t so bad on these trucks, the old window switches always irritated me with how the power is connected. I always fight to unplug them.
To set the pinion angle does the truck have to be level?
gas tank and battery are on the drivers side causes the sag.
Loved the video man; it's great seeing old school Dodge content for a change! Did you end up using factory length shocks or did you buy shorter ones?
I just use the factory length ones. I’ve never really messed with trying to find shorter ones
@@moparmuscle123 thanks for the response man. That makes me a lot more confident about sourcing parts and tackling this project because I already have everything else I need.
@@ThePostZenith it’s a pretty straight forward deal, I think the rear is something that intimidates people but if a guy takes his time it’s not so bad. It’s definitely worth the work.
I’ve seen guys theorize the drivers lean is because of the gas tank on that side. Could be, as good a guess as any I suppose.
I’ve found a couple that actually had stretched cab mounts on the driver side so it looked lower but the box wasn’t lined up.
The (in)famous Dodge Lean. I think in all honesty its because you have the gas tank mounted on the driver's side, and a tank o' gas plus the driver's weight just causes them to sag on that side. IF, if you remove a coil out of the spring on that side, it kinda evens out. I like your video Part 1 and have thus subscribed. Even though I know how to do this, the part about radiusing the rear pivot point on the van LCA was a good idea and, of all the videos I've watched about this procedure, was the first time mentioned.
I agree all the extra weight would easily account for it. I find a lot of these trucks got worked hard too so the springs are generally sagged out. I have seen 2 frames that had bent cab mounts on the driver side which made it look like a lean but the box was straight.
@@moparmuscle123 right? I recently saved an 87 D150 (LXE) from the crusher. It was parked for 4 yrs. 134k on the speedo. Went to put some front shocks on, drivers side coil spring has a twist in coil helper. Everything else on this truck is straight except that spring.
I did this exact same thing to my 90 d150 my only gripe is pot holes 😂
When I lower one I swap front springs from side to side
any ubolts from a mopar b or c body work
What shocks did u use and do u like them … I need to replace mine and can’t find on the forums best shocks for these lowered d150s
I’ve just always used the cheapest oem shocks haha. One day I’d like to put one together and get it to perform tho.
Maybe someone can answer this for me, but should the angle of the diff be set with wheels on and the truck sitting on the ground? Wouldn’t you want your suspension at normal ride height to adjust the angle? And with that being said should you lower the front first to get the proper angle for the rear diff and tranny?
As long as the weight is on the axles you are okay. If you want 100 percent true, yes, you need the frame level, but measuring this way compensates for that as you are measuring with the truck static and not changing the frame angle. (Is this making sense?) In short YES. this works so long as you don't alter the frame angle by jacking it up or lowering it between measurements.
Did you change to a shorter shock, or were the stock ok and not bottom out?
I’ve always just used the original shocks without issue, but I would like to do a little research and find a better option in the future.
@@moparmuscle123 thank you for the feed back, great video.
car ubolts work
what size u bolts did you use?
I think it’s in the video, but if I remember off hand it’s a 1/2” bolt, 3” axle tube so 3”
Inside and like 8” long inside in a “U” shape