The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Here in India laminate on plywood is pretty much common. We use sharp knife for cutting laminate, normal wood glue to join laminate and plywood and hand planer for finishing edges of laminate after applying.
I love the plywood and laminate countertops I built for our kitchen. They're holding up great, they were pretty easy to make, and they were dirt cheap compared to other countertop options. Digging that orange!
I Love everything plywood you build. so clean looking, who needs hardwoods and jointers and planers. when you got nice baltic birch, a straight edge, and a circular saw.
One of the best things to use to keep the two surfaces from sticking together and giving you control over lining up laminate and plywood are vinyl blind slats, they slide out easily and of course stack together nicely. I find brand new dirt cheap blinds at the thrift store or even clearance at big box stores
In the past I thought some of your videos were kind of cheesy, (but for some reason I subscribed, go figure.) however I really am starting to like them vary much. They are actually very useful, especially this one. The circular saw the tip was very good, and a random orbital sander for the edges was another great tip. I’m actually looking forward to your future videos!
Awesome build. A little different then your usual content, but I like it! I’m always glad to broaden my knowledge about more ways to make things as you do it as well! Great video Mike!
One thing I learned about caulk from Modustrial Maker is that using a confectioner tool lets you get a perfect caulk line. But I suppose you've got your own method.
Another great video! How do you know where to be placing your straight edge?? Is it as simple as just measuring the distance from edge of blade to side of the circular saw and adding that to every measurement?
My most watched video in my channel is " how to cut laminate countertop " I do use a circular saw with the blade that came with (24 t). I did tape the front and cut from the back side on that.
I just had a doubt, it's not related to this project but how would you join plywood end to end? I have two pieces of plywood left out and I wanted to combine both of them to make a desktop, but they aren't long enough. Should I do that or just buy a 4×8 plywood board.?
Hey there...I realize you asked Mike, and I don't know what his answer would be, nor do I know if what I'm about to say is "right", and although I'm just another DIYer, what I do know is that I have first hand experience in this area. (It's worth noting that you absolutely can purchase smaller sheets of plywood from just about any retailer that sells plywood. I choose this option myself frequently -usually a 2ftx4ft sheet, but other sizes are also available- because a) the big boxes will ship it, free if requirements are met b) i live in the middle of nowhere-near-a-Home-Depot, and c) I don't drive.) It was important to me that the surface be one that I could write on (like in Technicolor, with pen and paper lol) without needing a clipboard or other secondary surface, so I chose a piece of PVC board as the top. Under it are two pieces of plywood that were left from other projects but weren't big enough to be the desktop independently. To give this rather lightweight surface more support and rigidity, I used scrap pieces of pine that I cut into identical dimensions. I laid them out in a way that made sense to my build, attached the not-big-enough plywood to them with glue and then screws that would go into but not through the plywood from the underside, and topped it off with my PVC board. The cool thing about this project for me was that none of the components could function the same without the others. The PVC I had was < 1/8" thick, so it was too thin to be used in this way without support. As we've established, the plywood came up short dimensionally, and the pieces of pine that give those two an opportunity to shine was rescued from the edge of demise itself. It had spent a couple months in the not-ready-to-call-it-trash pile, and when I gave up and went to move it to the trash, it's usefulness occurred to me and made me grateful for my tendency to hold onto cutoffs for what some would call way too long. (When a store-run isn't a viable option, one must rethink the idea of what it is to be resourceful!) If the smoothness of the surface isn't important to you, there's no reason why you couldn't have a perfectly functional desktop made of two pieces, and if strategically placed, the seam could even become an aesthetic feature on which you might capatilize. Either way, bracing it with something as I did with my would-be-trash pine is probably necessary to keep the pieces from shifting, and it served double duty in my build. The bracing for the surface is also what keeps it in place via friction fit onto the structure used as my desk. It's what made this a success for me, because without requiring glue and fasteners (to the base structure, that is) to be a desktop, the ease of breakdown makes it modular, if not portable. A 3'x5' rectangle PVC sheet is attached to 2 pieces of plywood with a dimensional sum equal to the PVC, and about 3" in from the perimeter, 2"X2" pine is the bracing that serves double duty with friction, as the entire unit I've described fits onto and around the surface of a table that becomes my desk. Again, I'm no expert, I'm not advising you, I'm just a fellow DIYer sharing experience. Hope it helps. (PS - Hats off to those who write things like this! I've never tried to write such a thing, but attempting to describe this in a way that makes sense without illustration at my disposal is quite the task!)
@@adammabe5819 Thanks a lot for reply man! I legit wasn't expecting someone to actually reply to my question. And just so you know I didn't mean the question just to Mike, I just put the comment in hope that some nice diyer like yourself might give me some advice. PVC seems like a great idea. I was also thinking about using some 2x4s that I have to provide a framework underneath the desk(and by framework I mean like 2 or 3 running under the pieces connecting them). As you said two pieces can help give aesthetics arranged the right way. Thanks a lot for the advice again
@@adammabe5819 Thanks a lot for you suggestions. The PVC board might be something that I'll add on. Just because like you said PVC is a writable surface. I was thinking of maybe putting it on one side of the desk so that I would still have the wood look that I like and a writable surface. With the correct arrangement I hope I can get it to look right
@@mdv9831 if I've understood your needs correctly, I think you might find this to be a viable option - plexiglass (not to be confused with Plexiglas lol). Some type of thin, rigid, transparent, plastic-y material would give you the writing surface you want while not taking away from the wood look. Of course, you'd be without the tactile attraction, but perhaps only apply it on the top surface if that's the concern. You could even use it only in the center on the desktop, framing it in a detailed wood finish. If it seems like I have an answer for everything, I promise I don't. Lol it just so happens that I'm completely obsessed with wood and plastics right now, with a specific and highlighted interest in PVC and Plexiglas-like materials. One final thing - If you decide to go with anything in plastics, do yourself a favor and shop around. The variances in pricing can be shocking, but the same is true of the level of care and professionalism applied to your plastics order. I keep finding these seemingly great prices, but when I get to checkout, shipping cost is a dealbreaker. I mean, I get it...shipping costs money, but some of these places have lost their minds. I don't mind paying for shipping, but I do mind paying a lot more than what it costs to ship and have it called "shipping"...especially when other places aren't charging those additional, mislabeled costs. It can be overwhelming, truly. I could go on and on, but should you find yourself needing any info that I might be able to help with, feel free to email me (see my username). I'm no kind of expert, but I'm certainly willing to point you in a valuable direction. Nice crossing your (virtual) path. Best to you and yours.
Ok, maybe this is a stupid question, but you put the glue on the bottom of the laminate, and on the plywood and let it dry before you put them together...how do they stick together if the glue is already dry?
Is there anything you can do to handle voids in exposed edge plywood. I like the look, but reasonably priced plywood without a ton of voids is tough to source around here.
Nice job, and great idea exploring two different options. Word to the wise - the bottom of the countertop (or the back side of any laminated surface) needs to be balanced with either a backer sheet or some laminate of the same thickness, or the top will warp over time - particularly in the case like this where it will be subject to swings in temperature and humidity. The bottom side is a good place to use up cracked laminate or discounted sheets that have some sort of defect.
Why did you choose to leave the edge exposed and not apply the laminate there as well? Seems like water or spills will eventually seep under the counter top laminate.
The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
Where is part 4 of the bus build. Like if you agree.
Welcome to the channel.
Here in India laminate on plywood is pretty much common. We use sharp knife for cutting laminate, normal wood glue to join laminate and plywood and hand planer for finishing edges of laminate after applying.
I love the plywood and laminate countertops I built for our kitchen. They're holding up great, they were pretty easy to make, and they were dirt cheap compared to other countertop options. Digging that orange!
lightning lightning lightning thanks, yea mike and I are good buds!
I Love everything plywood you build. so clean looking, who needs hardwoods and jointers and planers. when you got nice baltic birch, a straight edge, and a circular saw.
That shade of orange is gorgeous.
Circular saw is a tool which the more you use it , you more love it. Practice practice practice ...it makes perfect. Nice job!
This so cool but im still waiting for the school bus house.... WHEN WILL IT EVER BE DONE!!!!!!!!!!
Truueeee
IM WAITING TOO!! Its been like a month
DesPawn when he uploads something i always hope its busbuild😂
Simon Ziswiler yeah samee😂
For the longest
I like this video, simple tools, and suitable for beginner like me who has no work bench no table saw to follow. Thanks
Thanks man. I've been looking for laminate videos! Great video!
Great video! Love the time and effort spent on showing two different methods/techniques and comparing them. Thank you 👍
One of the best things to use to keep the two surfaces from sticking together and giving you control over lining up laminate and plywood are vinyl blind slats, they slide out easily and of course stack together nicely. I find brand new dirt cheap blinds at the thrift store or even clearance at big box stores
Good video. I like those glasses.
Bring on the bus build (please&thankyou)!!! I love the orange! Thanks for the video Mike
Looks awesome! You must be reading my mind....getting ready to do an island for the kitchen! thank you for your videos!!
Yes waiting for forever
When is the bus build part 4 coming out? I’m dying to see it
Great video. The only thing missing was a 1-800-SUPER-PRO at 6:25
This video is money! So good!
Kitchen’s lookin’ good!!
That orange is so sick. A little mid century style.
They look SO good.
Super satisfying to watch! Thank Mike!
Sick project mike! Keep it up!
I am a big fan of the final product... undoubtedly trying this for myself. Great stuff Mike!
Countertop turned out great! You did a fine job!
Since it came from Harbor Freight.... Oooooooohhhhhh, SNAP!
Vibrant 🍊 orange. Retro
In the past I thought some of your videos were kind of cheesy, (but for some reason I subscribed, go figure.) however I really am starting to like them vary much. They are actually very useful, especially this one. The circular saw the tip was very good, and a random orbital sander for the edges was another great tip. I’m actually looking forward to your future videos!
Used to work in a cabinet shop we used an extension cord zigzagged under the laminate and started from one side instead of the middle
Tnx for bringing it. Now, can I get it already laminated, & when laminated can I CNC the board ???
love the color. great job mike!
Awesome build. A little different then your usual content, but I like it! I’m always glad to broaden my knowledge about more ways to make things as you do it as well! Great video Mike!
Nice work. Looking forward to the next bus Video.
Badass, this reaffirms my thoughts on flush trim routers, i much preffer to use a circular saw
One thing I learned about caulk from Modustrial Maker is that using a confectioner tool lets you get a perfect caulk line. But I suppose you've got your own method.
Yessss
I know its a bit late but u r the absolute best. Keep it up dude:)
Bro, thx for sharing. The result looks awesome. 👍👍👍
5:00 there's a spec of dust on/in your lense. You can see the darkened spot over the orange laminate in every shot
Looks great. I can't wait to see the bus kitchen video.
Oh they look good
I was so excited when he uploaded but I realized it wasn’t a bus upload
i would like to see a white trim than an exposed plywood finish
took me back to building with dad thanks for an excalent refreasher
Looks great Mike, awesome work! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Another great video! How do you know where to be placing your straight edge?? Is it as simple as just measuring the distance from edge of blade to side of the circular saw and adding that to every measurement?
DUUUUDE! WAY COOL! 👍😁👍👌😜
Keep up the great work!
I love your channel 💓💓
love this vid! awesome work!
What do you think about Hart tools that you are using
Roll, roll, roll your glue, save a crap load of time,
Thanks for sharing.
8:55 - what was that sorcery! Looks great, Mike!
I love your show
Great video, thanks a lot.
What kinda boots you wearing? Those things are fresh.
any difference between the laminate facing up vs down when using the circular saw?
Nice video. Cabinets really pop. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I wonder if a kitchen rolling pin would work as well to press the laminate to the plywood.
My most watched video in my channel is " how to cut laminate countertop " I do use a circular saw with the blade that came with (24 t). I did tape the front and cut from the back side on that.
LOVE it!
wow that finished kitchen space.... unreal
Amazing
How are you liking the Hart tools?
Modern Builds = 80s builds
Great job ,
Do you mind sharing where you got the white kitchen faucet/sprayer from?
Sweet🍬🍩🍫
can you put hot pots on a laminate countertop? and also, is that water-proof?
We want part 4
Who else wishes he posts way more than he does ??
Where is that faucet in the kitchen from?
Great video, I've been wondering if you were going to do a laminate project!
He got that harbor freight router same good job
I have been waiting for days
I’ve noticed that you use tools mostly in your left hand! Are you a lefty? Do you find that limits the types of tools you use and ease of use?
When bus series completed??
Also, how (and when in the process)did you seal the wood to protect from water damage?
He showed it close to the end
@@Therealphantomzero guess I missed it. I'll rewatch. :)
You go!
Hart power tools? Have heard and seen many channels that those tools are bad... what is your experience with them?
#STAYSAFE
When you will make the series of your bus innovation?
Can you do a tiny diy skate park?☺️
*so dont protect the sides from water exposure?*
Chinne ورشة المحترف workshop
Good luck
Custom!
Modern Buildthss
cute
I am glad you like the saw but a good router and bit will always yield better results... use a saw only if you have nothing else.
I just had a doubt, it's not related to this project but how would you join plywood end to end? I have two pieces of plywood left out and I wanted to combine both of them to make a desktop, but they aren't long enough. Should I do that or just buy a 4×8 plywood board.?
Hey there...I realize you asked Mike, and I don't know what his answer would be, nor do I know if what I'm about to say is "right", and although I'm just another DIYer, what I do know is that I have first hand experience in this area. (It's worth noting that you absolutely can purchase smaller sheets of plywood from just about any retailer that sells plywood. I choose this option myself frequently -usually a 2ftx4ft sheet, but other sizes are also available- because a) the big boxes will ship it, free if requirements are met b) i live in the middle of nowhere-near-a-Home-Depot, and c) I don't drive.) It was important to me that the surface be one that I could write on (like in Technicolor, with pen and paper lol) without needing a clipboard or other secondary surface, so I chose a piece of PVC board as the top. Under it are two pieces of plywood that were left from other projects but weren't big enough to be the desktop independently. To give this rather lightweight surface more support and rigidity, I used scrap pieces of pine that I cut into identical dimensions. I laid them out in a way that made sense to my build, attached the not-big-enough plywood to them with glue and then screws that would go into but not through the plywood from the underside, and topped it off with my PVC board. The cool thing about this project for me was that none of the components could function the same without the others. The PVC I had was < 1/8" thick, so it was too thin to be used in this way without support. As we've established, the plywood came up short dimensionally, and the pieces of pine that give those two an opportunity to shine was rescued from the edge of demise itself. It had spent a couple months in the not-ready-to-call-it-trash pile, and when I gave up and went to move it to the trash, it's usefulness occurred to me and made me grateful for my tendency to hold onto cutoffs for what some would call way too long. (When a store-run isn't a viable option, one must rethink the idea of what it is to be resourceful!) If the smoothness of the surface isn't important to you, there's no reason why you couldn't have a perfectly functional desktop made of two pieces, and if strategically placed, the seam could even become an aesthetic feature on which you might capatilize. Either way, bracing it with something as I did with my would-be-trash pine is probably necessary to keep the pieces from shifting, and it served double duty in my build. The bracing for the surface is also what keeps it in place via friction fit onto the structure used as my desk. It's what made this a success for me, because without requiring glue and fasteners (to the base structure, that is) to be a desktop, the ease of breakdown makes it modular, if not portable. A 3'x5' rectangle PVC sheet is attached to 2 pieces of plywood with a dimensional sum equal to the PVC, and about 3" in from the perimeter, 2"X2" pine is the bracing that serves double duty with friction, as the entire unit I've described fits onto and around the surface of a table that becomes my desk. Again, I'm no expert, I'm not advising you, I'm just a fellow DIYer sharing experience. Hope it helps. (PS - Hats off to those who write things like this! I've never tried to write such a thing, but attempting to describe this in a way that makes sense without illustration at my disposal is quite the task!)
@@adammabe5819 Thanks a lot for reply man! I legit wasn't expecting someone to actually reply to my question. And just so you know I didn't mean the question just to Mike, I just put the comment in hope that some nice diyer like yourself might give me some advice. PVC seems like a great idea. I was also thinking about using some 2x4s that I have to provide a framework underneath the desk(and by framework I mean like 2 or 3 running under the pieces connecting them). As you said two pieces can help give aesthetics arranged the right way. Thanks a lot for the advice again
@@mdv9831 so refreshing to come across someone in the comments that isn't a total douche! Good luck! Lol
@@adammabe5819 Thanks a lot for you suggestions. The PVC board might be something that I'll add on. Just because like you said PVC is a writable surface. I was thinking of maybe putting it on one side of the desk so that I would still have the wood look that I like and a writable surface. With the correct arrangement I hope I can get it to look right
@@mdv9831 if I've understood your needs correctly, I think you might find this to be a viable option - plexiglass (not to be confused with Plexiglas lol). Some type of thin, rigid, transparent, plastic-y material would give you the writing surface you want while not taking away from the wood look. Of course, you'd be without the tactile attraction, but perhaps only apply it on the top surface if that's the concern. You could even use it only in the center on the desktop, framing it in a detailed wood finish. If it seems like I have an answer for everything, I promise I don't. Lol it just so happens that I'm completely obsessed with wood and plastics right now, with a specific and highlighted interest in PVC and Plexiglas-like materials. One final thing - If you decide to go with anything in plastics, do yourself a favor and shop around. The variances in pricing can be shocking, but the same is true of the level of care and professionalism applied to your plastics order. I keep finding these seemingly great prices, but when I get to checkout, shipping cost is a dealbreaker. I mean, I get it...shipping costs money, but some of these places have lost their minds. I don't mind paying for shipping, but I do mind paying a lot more than what it costs to ship and have it called "shipping"...especially when other places aren't charging those additional, mislabeled costs. It can be overwhelming, truly. I could go on and on, but should you find yourself needing any info that I might be able to help with, feel free to email me (see my username). I'm no kind of expert, but I'm certainly willing to point you in a valuable direction. Nice crossing your (virtual) path. Best to you and yours.
How am I just now realizing how cute this guy is??
Circular!
Ok, maybe this is a stupid question, but you put the glue on the bottom of the laminate, and on the plywood and let it dry before you put them together...how do they stick together if the glue is already dry?
Is there anything you can do to handle voids in exposed edge plywood. I like the look, but reasonably priced plywood without a ton of voids is tough to source around here.
You need to source baltic birch plywood to get this seamless look. It’s currently triple the price of standard plywood where I am.
Nice job, and great idea exploring two different options. Word to the wise - the bottom of the countertop (or the back side of any laminated surface) needs to be balanced with either a backer sheet or some laminate of the same thickness, or the top will warp over time - particularly in the case like this where it will be subject to swings in temperature and humidity. The bottom side is a good place to use up cracked laminate or discounted sheets that have some sort of defect.
Why did you choose to leave the edge exposed and not apply the laminate there as well? Seems like water or spills will eventually seep under the counter top laminate.
What's happening with the bus build, really desperate to see part 4 xx
When will the 4 episode of bus will come out
is that a walmart sander bart brand
Update on the BUUUUUUUUS!!!!
Broccoli Beats 11:51