@@anthonyromano8565 if you did the cutting very well on your plywood and use table saw with good measurement on fences prettty much edge banding would be a great way.. but if you suck on cutting and you use a circular saw without a guide definitely using edge banding wouldn't suffice your project and it will leave messed up edges.. Here in the Philippines.. Plywood Plys diifers and most of the common plywood we used are not pretty much using fullpacked wood ply. I can say here the plywood is pretty messed up too.. so this technique works well.. Edge banding works well if your plywood is with good edges and you cut it well..
If you are in UK, you can get the same quality finish using No Nonsense White Primer, then Leyland Acrylic Shellac Paint, then finish with No Nonsense Interior Varnish (All water based and from Screwfix). I sprayed them all using HVLP.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop Yeah just wanted to share incase anyone from UK watching. I couldn't find many of the polyurethane products I see in the USA here, there is a polyacrilic which seems like the best, I try not to use solvent based since it's pain to clean
Thanks for this video. I’m building a subwoofer cabinet and spraying automotive primer and hi gloss black single stage paint to finish and needed to find a way to seal the edge grain instead of spraying 6+ coats of sealer on it to fill. Going to give your method a shot.
Nice video. I tired drywall compound once and didn’t like the result, I’ll have to try this sometime. I would recommend hand sanding the wood fill down. It sands down pretty fast if you don’t put too much on, and a person could easily sand through the thin veneer of the plywood by accident.
Hi, Thanks' for those tip's , if the plywood has laminate on it I found it difficult to paint the edges without staining the laminate, do you have some recommendations for me?
What are the implications of the veneer peeling up at the edge under the paint with moderate use? Working on some pieces for the kids playroom and wondered about its resilience? Toughness to water?
I lol'd when I saw this, I thought I was the crazy one i've done this for a few years now, made all my kitchen doors and drawer fronts with plywood and used putty for the edges then painted. Nobody knows. :)
What would you recommend for smaller furniture pieces or one with smaller dividers? The sprayers can't get in there. Doing all this before assembly will show the seams.
I would suggest getting a gravity fed sprayer. The sprayer I use is a siphon model which the tank is bigger and it's harder to get into small area. A gravity fed sprayer will be a bit more versatile but the down side is the tank is smaller. That's the router i would go. The benefit of the Fuji system is they offer both sprayer options if you choose to buy one from them. Hope this helps!
Super curious about your choice of paint. SW Ceiling bright white. Never heard of using this for a nice finish on cabinets/wood furniture. Would you be willing to give your thoughts on this? Thank you!
Ceiling bright white is just the color. The quality of the paint is in the product itself. They have a range of different types of paint that will meet different requirments for your project.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop SW ceiling paint is called Ceiling Bright White. I just purchased several gallons last week. I always use SW Emerald Urethane when painting cabinets or furniture. Which paint do you use?
@@kennedymueller1788 yes, SW has a ceiling paint product but it can be any color. Ceiling bright white just so happens to be one of the colors, SW 7007. I've been using the Emerald Urethane and it's been very good for painted furniture. If you're going toward more of a professional setting, I suggest a colored pre-catalyzed lacquer. It's much more durable but has a shelf life. Sherwin Williams makes it as well but only through certain stores.
Thanks. Great advice. I heard someone say that polyurethane on white paint can give it a yellow tint. Do you find that to be true at all? I’m new to all of this.
Man, I am starting our 9 foot dining room table today. You just made my project a lot easier. How are the edges holding up now? Does the lacquer finish keep the wood filler edges in tact?
The edges are holding up fine. I've done this on my laundry built-ins and they always take a beating every week. It's been holding up perfectly. I lacquer or any film finish will work well.
Thanks a lot for the information, I'm building my first plywood cabinet and I needed these tips... Can you share the reference of the primer and paint you used? are they water based? is the primer sandable? Thanks again.
Hey thanks! I used sherwin William products. The primer was Extreme Bond Primer and the paint I use was their Harmony line. Both are water base and it is sandable.
It looks super nice 👌 what did you use to fill the gaps between the shelves and the vertical panels? I was wondering if you have tried used spax for drywall instead of wood filler and how it turned out.
I wouldn't use the drywall stuff so I can't say how long it will last. As for the shelves between the vertical panels, unless you're going to use a dado joint, you're going to have some gap. I used adjustable shelves on this so a little gap is good since it's easier to remove and replace. If you're making them stationary, then you can caulk the seams.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop thanks for the tips. I used caulking but I thought there might be an better option. The spax is easy to sand but I wasn't sure how much it sticks to wood.
My concern with the drywall stuff is potential cracking that might happen later since it's made for mainly drywall use. I've heard of others using it before. I wouldn't use it on projects for clients though.
Would you use DAP Plastic wood to get rid of the grain on the side of the plywood? I can't tell if the plywood you are using has any wood grain to speak of but I'm making a set of drawers with Baltic Birch plywood and want a smooth surface. Loved the video and the idea of smoothing plywood edges with plastic wood rather than more wood, banding etc. Thanks!
I have a question, I used a roller for my floating media console, I'm on my first coat but the texture from it is terrible. I'm not sure if I can properly sand it as it is Vespar Paint and primer. Do you think a second coat will help smooth it out?
You'll notice some fine texturing even with a foam roller sometimes. My recommendation is use a separate paint and primer. If you need to roll on the finish paint, I would possibly thin it out a bit so that the paint can even out before it hardens. I doubt a second coat will remove any of the texturing. Hopefully that helps.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop thank you for your quick response! I'm gonna try to remove the current paint and try for the seperate paint and primer as reccomended!
At first I was resilient to go down the painting road as I thought laminate might be a cheaper solution for my birch plywood cabinet, but after seeing your video im considering it - and also getting a paint gun plus paint seems to be a cheaper option for me. If I prime, then thin down high glossy benjman more acrylic paint, then apply a high gloss polyurathane after, do you think I could replicate the plastic feel of laminate as well as meet or exceed the plastic aesthetic of laminate?
I'm glad it helped! I think that approach might work. Typically if I want a feel that is similar to laminate, I would go with a semi-gloss to glossy oil based paint. It doesn't feel exactly like laminate but it's close.
Hi thank you so much for this video, it is really useful for where I'm currently at. I'm curious about two things. 1) If the plywood edges have seemingly no voids in them, is it still necessary to do a layer of wood filler, or will sanding be enough to conceal the plys with primer and paint? And 2) After seeing this video I found a used Mini Mite 3 (It's actually brand new) and may purchase it. I work out of a shipping container though, so I'm quite exposed to the elements. The doors can't even be closed while I'm inside. My question is, will I be able to get good results spraying outdoors essentially? If you're able to answer these questions it would be very helpful! Either way, thanks so much for the videos. Excited to follow you and watch more of them!
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad you found it useful. 1) you’ll want to apply the filler to get a smooth edge. The different layers of plywood will absorb the primer and paint unevenly. The filler helps lay a nice smooth foundation for the primer and paint to stick to 2) I spray outdoors often and I would say having a dedicated space will help with any debris that may fall on the surface. If you can spray and move the work piece into a covered area, you should be ok. Having a tent/spray box will help as well.
hey! i''ve got sanded plywood for a custom closet. I want to paint it white. Do i need to sand it before painting? If so what grit sandpaper should i use? I have an orbital sander
I've use sanded grade plywood before and didn't like the amount of time needed to get it smooth. Even though it's paint grade, you will still need to sand it and prime the surface to cover any wood grain. I would sand from 120grit up to 180 grit, prime the surface with 2 coats, sand the primer with 320 grit, and finally add the paint. You want to sand between paint coats with 320 grit paper. Hope that helps!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop oh thank goodness i've now seen your reply before i started. i was going to go in with 80 grit first but i guess i can skip that now. thank you so much. this is super helpful! :)
@@DesignCraftWorkshop i sanded it up to 320 and then just painted it I didn't use primer and it has all the lines from the brush do I need to sand that off and apply primer? or am I just painting it wrong
Hey James! Brush lines will depend on the quality of the brush itself most of the time. If you're going to brush on the paint, I would recommend getting a good brush and also make sure you have a consistent wet tip. The last recommendation I would suggest is to thin out the paint so that the paint will flow a little better. With that being said, I suggest always applying primer. It's critical for an even finish.
Hey man, I’ve made a built in storage unit for my kids wardrobe to store his toys, it looks very similar to what you made in this video. I have followed your advice on finishing the plywood edges and so far looks great, just need to paint. I have a question... once the unit is secured in place, I want to fix another piece of finished, painted plywood over the top to hide a few gaps. How would you secure the final piece of plywood to the unit, In the most subtle and eye friend way??? If possible I don’t want to put screws or nails in the top piece, would like to keep it clean. Hope this makes sense!?!
Great question! I would have to see it to know exactly what you're doing, but from what I'm hearing you don't want the piece to move and have it secure into place. My best thought would be to use a pin nailer. A 23ga nailer would leave a very small hole where it isn't noticeable.
Design Craft Workshop awesome, appreciate the feedback. I have rewatched this video 1000 times in order to get a finish similar to yours. Hopefully my paint job will do it justice. Final question, the unit will have walls on 3 sides, would you use silicone caulk to finish the edges where wood meets dry wall. Thanks so much for your help 👍🏼
Is that a waterbased primer? Does it cause any raised grain on the plywood faces? Is any woodgrain visible on the faces in the end? Ive read one should use a "Surfacer" to make it all smooth. Thanks
Hi! I have been using water-based products for years in both commercial and residential application. Water-base will raise the grain slightly, but since you’re going to sand the primer down before applying your finish paint it will knockdown any raise grain on the surface. No wood grain is visible for me if you sand between coats and thin the finish paint appropriately. Hope it helps!
Hi did you also apply a wood filler for the rest of the ply wood? or the edge only? Do you also need to sand the last coat?I Learned a lot of things by the way.
Thanks! I added food filler on the edges as well as the seams between the front and the plywood box. You don’t have to sand the final finish coat but before applying the finish coat I recommend sanding
Thank you Bao. Your video is very good and well explained. You’re gonna be good brother. One question please; can you spray polyeutherene with HVLP gun? I’ve just gotten it for a big project. Thank you Bao
Thank you so much! Yes, you can spray polyurethane through an HVLP. That's what I did on this project. ruclips.net/video/FFTQpUA-nT0/видео.html You'll have to thin out the finish and use the right spray tip. Hope this helps!
Thanks, I really appreciate your instructions, especially when applying putty on the edges. I bought the same DAP plastic wood. But yours looks more "moist" and smooth, where mine looks and feels grainy and seemed to apply like wet sand. Was your wood filler straight out of the container?
Thank you! Yes it was straight from the box. If your wood filler is a bit hard, try spraying small amount of water to soften it. And when you're done using the tub, over the opening with plastic wrap and then seal it off with the lid. Hope this helps!
Great video man! Going to use these tips for cabinets I'm making, the one thing I'm unsure of is the paint. Would you use a different maybe tougher paint for cabinets?
Thank you! For cabinets like kitchen cabinets I highly recommend tinted lacquers. It gives you a very professional look and feel if you use a sprayer. I have used acrylic for some of my cabinets in my laundry room and it’s been holding up really well after 2 years. It key with acrylic is you need that protective polyurethane finish.
Great tips, I'm glad I found your channel. Question where do you like to buy your wood from? I'm in Pearland and just starting out with wood working. I'm looking for other sources besides Lowes and Home Depot.
Very poor quality of prep. From 6:22 to 7:16 min of video you can see even where "face" is connected with side of element and all srface is poorly sanded. Next time you can use some cheap aerosol spray over primer and aply it only as myst , it would have role of spy how much sending is needed. As long as you see small dots of spray sanding is needed.
Would you use this for your project?
never, why would I use this technique to make more dust, take more time when i can just create better design and use edge banding
@@anthonyromano8565 if you did the cutting very well on your plywood and use table saw with good measurement on fences prettty much edge banding would be a great way.. but if you suck on cutting and you use a circular saw without a guide definitely using edge banding wouldn't suffice your project and it will leave messed up edges.. Here in the Philippines.. Plywood Plys diifers and most of the common plywood we used are not pretty much using fullpacked wood ply. I can say here the plywood is pretty messed up too.. so this technique works well..
Edge banding works well if your plywood is with good edges and you cut it well..
What polyurethane do you use on white furniture that provides a hard, durable surface, but doesn't cause any yellowing?
@@mortonmeg I used Varathane Triple Thick water-base polyurethane. Water-base shouldn’t yellow on you. Oil-base is where it might be an issue.
@@anthonyromano8565 edge banding is fine. Nothing wrong with it other than the seam between two pieces of banding.
Thanks so much for showing your technique. This helped me finish a plywood cabinet I was struggling with
Glad it helped!
I think this is the best video for making ply wood nicest and no cover like the others guys does very cool
Why thank you! I hope it helps you on your project
If you are in UK, you can get the same quality finish using No Nonsense White Primer, then Leyland Acrylic Shellac Paint, then finish with No Nonsense Interior Varnish (All water based and from Screwfix). I sprayed them all using HVLP.
Yeah there are plenty of combo products out there
@@DesignCraftWorkshop Yeah just wanted to share incase anyone from UK watching. I couldn't find many of the polyurethane products I see in the USA here, there is a polyacrilic which seems like the best, I try not to use solvent based since it's pain to clean
We have it but it's not going to be a product you find off the shelf in most stores
Thanks for the video man, I just built a very "rustic" nightstand and found this very useful!
Thank you! I'm glad it helped!
I am building a closet organizer with plywood. I like how you finished the edges! Going to give it a try!
Awesome! Thank you! I hope it helps!
Try using bondo instead. It dries faster
@@Notjay95 Thays what I've been hearing.
Awesome tip Bao. Simple tips like this definitely make the finished piece look extra extra fancy. Great video!
Yea! and it's a low cost solution as well!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop what if my plywood isn't very smooth to directly apply primer on the faces and I want to paint it with enamel paint? Please :)
You got my sub with the hidden door.
Thank you!
Thanks for this video. I’m building a subwoofer cabinet and spraying automotive primer and hi gloss black single stage paint to finish and needed to find a way to seal the edge grain instead of spraying 6+ coats of sealer on it to fill. Going to give your method a shot.
👍🏻👍🏻 hope it helps!
Thank you so much, wanted a good way to finish an edge without many tools. This is perfect.
Hey glad you found it useful!
Thanks mate, about to go through this process re campervan fit out.
Nice man! Hopefully it turns out well
excellent job and professional and good tips to learn from your clip
Thank you! Glad it helped!
Exactly what I needed.
I glad it helped!
Great video without so many complications and tools. I was looking for one of this wood filler video. Subscribed
Thank you! It's a really easy way to get it done
That looks amazing.
Thanks Mark!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop could you use spray paint, like the behr one instead of getting a paint sprayer
@@riveralley yea you could. You might need more layers
Good information and technique!
Thanks Andy!
2:45 I inherited some already-painted edge plywood inside the house. Can you recommend a filler when it is already painted?
You’ll need to sand the edges and then add filler. I suggest bondo since it’ll adhere to already paint surfaces much better than regular wood filler.
Nice video. I tired drywall compound once and didn’t like the result, I’ll have to try this sometime.
I would recommend hand sanding the wood fill down. It sands down pretty fast if you don’t put too much on, and a person could easily sand through the thin veneer of the plywood by accident.
for sure. You want to use a high grit sandpaper and possibly add a second layer if needed.
Thanks for this. Gave me the exact info I was looking for
Glad I could help!
excellent job.
Thank you!
Thanks a ton!
Very helpful!
Patricia
Thank you! Glad it helped!
Dang Bao great video! And great knowledge
Thanks buddy! Glad you found it helpful
Hi, Thanks' for those tip's , if the plywood has laminate on it I found it difficult to paint the edges without staining the laminate, do you have some recommendations for me?
simple, but for my current project (electric guitar) possibly the best solution
Glad it helps!
What are the implications of the veneer peeling up at the edge under the paint with moderate use? Working on some pieces for the kids playroom and wondered about its resilience? Toughness to water?
Fantastic
Thank you!
That's awesome. Thanks for the tips! I've been looking for a video like this for ages.
Thank you! I hope you can use it for your projects!
I lol'd when I saw this, I thought I was the crazy one i've done this for a few years now, made all my kitchen doors and drawer fronts with plywood and used putty for the edges then painted. Nobody knows. :)
It's such an easy trick for good results.
Awesome technique. Wish i had found this video sooner!
I'm glad it was helpful! Hopefully you can apply it to the next project
Great video
Thank you so much!
Great video thanks. What grade plywood do you use on this project?
thank you! I usually use C2 plywood.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop thanks. I'll try this.
@@michaelamundsen8597 I hope it helps!
Great tip, thanks for sharin, keep on doin what u good at 😁
Thank you!
It is a nice and interesting video.
Thank you so much!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop You're welcome. Take care.
Very nice walk through! Well explained bro!
Thanks man 👍🏻
Awesome! Great vid
Thank you! Hope it helped!
What would you recommend for smaller furniture pieces or one with smaller dividers? The sprayers can't get in there. Doing all this before assembly will show the seams.
I would suggest getting a gravity fed sprayer. The sprayer I use is a siphon model which the tank is bigger and it's harder to get into small area. A gravity fed sprayer will be a bit more versatile but the down side is the tank is smaller. That's the router i would go. The benefit of the Fuji system is they offer both sprayer options if you choose to buy one from them. Hope this helps!
Super curious about your choice of paint. SW Ceiling bright white. Never heard of using this for a nice finish on cabinets/wood furniture. Would you be willing to give your thoughts on this? Thank you!
Ceiling bright white is just the color. The quality of the paint is in the product itself. They have a range of different types of paint that will meet different requirments for your project.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop SW ceiling paint is called Ceiling Bright White. I just purchased several gallons last week. I always use SW Emerald Urethane when painting cabinets or furniture. Which paint do you use?
@@kennedymueller1788 yes, SW has a ceiling paint product but it can be any color. Ceiling bright white just so happens to be one of the colors, SW 7007. I've been using the Emerald Urethane and it's been very good for painted furniture. If you're going toward more of a professional setting, I suggest a colored pre-catalyzed lacquer. It's much more durable but has a shelf life. Sherwin Williams makes it as well but only through certain stores.
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks. Great advice. I heard someone say that polyurethane on white paint can give it a yellow tint. Do you find that to be true at all? I’m new to all of this.
If you stick with water-based you'll be fine. The issue is with oil-base paints and polyurethanes.
Sweet video. How did you apply the polyurethane finish? Brush, roller or spray?
I used my hvlp sprayer for that as well
Good video. Would you mind sharing the specs of your compressor? Thanks!
Its a dewalt 6gal compressor. Thank you
been a few years now, have those seams cracked? filling seams in wood is always risky because wood, even plywood, will expand and contract.
It still holds up fine. 👍🏻
are you happy with how Oura works?
So far so good!
I am using wood edge banding on melamine cabinet edges. Any recommendations on what I should do to prepare the wood edge band before I paint them.
You're just painting the melamine edge? I think it might be better to use melamine edge banding if you're going to use melamine boards.
How to apply the filler if the edges are rounded over?
Same concept would apply.
Great video my dude!
Thanks man! Glad you liked it!
Man, I am starting our 9 foot dining room table today. You just made my project a lot easier. How are the edges holding up now? Does the lacquer finish keep the wood filler edges in tact?
The edges are holding up fine. I've done this on my laundry built-ins and they always take a beating every week. It's been holding up perfectly. I lacquer or any film finish will work well.
Well explained, thank you!
Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot for the information, I'm building my first plywood cabinet and I needed these tips... Can you share the reference of the primer and paint you used? are they water based? is the primer sandable? Thanks again.
Hey thanks! I used sherwin William products. The primer was Extreme Bond Primer and the paint I use was their Harmony line. Both are water base and it is sandable.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop In regard to the primer, did you use one coat or two?
@@roberthiday3342 two coat primer and two coat paint is my usual method
It looks super nice 👌 what did you use to fill the gaps between the shelves and the vertical panels? I was wondering if you have tried used spax for drywall instead of wood filler and how it turned out.
I wouldn't use the drywall stuff so I can't say how long it will last. As for the shelves between the vertical panels, unless you're going to use a dado joint, you're going to have some gap. I used adjustable shelves on this so a little gap is good since it's easier to remove and replace. If you're making them stationary, then you can caulk the seams.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop thanks for the tips. I used caulking but I thought there might be an better option. The spax is easy to sand but I wasn't sure how much it sticks to wood.
My concern with the drywall stuff is potential cracking that might happen later since it's made for mainly drywall use. I've heard of others using it before. I wouldn't use it on projects for clients though.
Super great job man! Good tips all around.
Thanks Kris! Appreciate it
awesome video keep it up bro!
Thank you so much!
I have a question. After the last coat of paint, do you do a lite sanding before the polyurethane top coat? Great video, thank you so much...
Thank you! That really depends on if there is any debris on the surface. If there is then I'll sand to knock it down.
Would you use DAP Plastic wood to get rid of the grain on the side of the plywood? I can't tell if the plywood you are using has any wood grain to speak of but I'm making a set of drawers with Baltic Birch plywood and want a smooth surface. Loved the video and the idea of smoothing plywood edges with plastic wood rather than more wood, banding etc. Thanks!
I think it'll work as long as you can sand it smooth before priming. This was birch plywood. Not exactly like baltic birch, but it's very close.
Thanks for the video, great tips!
Thank you! And thanks for watching 👍🏻
I have a question, I used a roller for my floating media console, I'm on my first coat but the texture from it is terrible. I'm not sure if I can properly sand it as it is Vespar Paint and primer. Do you think a second coat will help smooth it out?
You'll notice some fine texturing even with a foam roller sometimes. My recommendation is use a separate paint and primer. If you need to roll on the finish paint, I would possibly thin it out a bit so that the paint can even out before it hardens. I doubt a second coat will remove any of the texturing. Hopefully that helps.
@@DesignCraftWorkshop thank you for your quick response! I'm gonna try to remove the current paint and try for the seperate paint and primer as reccomended!
I hope it works out!
At first I was resilient to go down the painting road as I thought laminate might be a cheaper solution for my birch plywood cabinet, but after seeing your video im considering it - and also getting a paint gun plus paint seems to be a cheaper option for me. If I prime, then thin down high glossy benjman more acrylic paint, then apply a high gloss polyurathane after, do you think I could replicate the plastic feel of laminate as well as meet or exceed the plastic aesthetic of laminate?
I'm glad it helped! I think that approach might work. Typically if I want a feel that is similar to laminate, I would go with a semi-gloss to glossy oil based paint. It doesn't feel exactly like laminate but it's close.
Hi thank you so much for this video, it is really useful for where I'm currently at. I'm curious about two things. 1) If the plywood edges have seemingly no voids in them, is it still necessary to do a layer of wood filler, or will sanding be enough to conceal the plys with primer and paint? And 2) After seeing this video I found a used Mini Mite 3 (It's actually brand new) and may purchase it. I work out of a shipping container though, so I'm quite exposed to the elements. The doors can't even be closed while I'm inside. My question is, will I be able to get good results spraying outdoors essentially? If you're able to answer these questions it would be very helpful! Either way, thanks so much for the videos. Excited to follow you and watch more of them!
Thanks for the comment! I’m glad you found it useful.
1) you’ll want to apply the filler to get a smooth edge. The different layers of plywood will absorb the primer and paint unevenly. The filler helps lay a nice smooth foundation for the primer and paint to stick to
2) I spray outdoors often and I would say having a dedicated space will help with any debris that may fall on the surface. If you can spray and move the work piece into a covered area, you should be ok. Having a tent/spray box will help as well.
Cool video, and the piece looks really nice too. Can you tell me where you got that apron you're wearing in the last shot?
Thank you! I won it from Texas Canvas Wear. This is the exact one I have. amzn.to/37WrH5w
hey! i''ve got sanded plywood for a custom closet. I want to paint it white. Do i need to sand it before painting? If so what grit sandpaper should i use? I have an orbital sander
I've use sanded grade plywood before and didn't like the amount of time needed to get it smooth. Even though it's paint grade, you will still need to sand it and prime the surface to cover any wood grain. I would sand from 120grit up to 180 grit, prime the surface with 2 coats, sand the primer with 320 grit, and finally add the paint. You want to sand between paint coats with 320 grit paper. Hope that helps!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop oh thank goodness i've now seen your reply before i started. i was going to go in with 80 grit first but i guess i can skip that now. thank you so much. this is super helpful! :)
@@SincerelyMaha I'm glad it helped!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop i sanded it up to 320 and then just painted it I didn't use primer and it has all the lines from the brush do I need to sand that off and apply primer? or am I just painting it wrong
Hey James! Brush lines will depend on the quality of the brush itself most of the time. If you're going to brush on the paint, I would recommend getting a good brush and also make sure you have a consistent wet tip. The last recommendation I would suggest is to thin out the paint so that the paint will flow a little better. With that being said, I suggest always applying primer. It's critical for an even finish.
Perfect. Exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks!
Hope it helps!
Hey man, I’ve made a built in storage unit for my kids wardrobe to store his toys, it looks very similar to what you made in this video. I have followed your advice on finishing the plywood edges and so far looks great, just need to paint.
I have a question... once the unit is secured in place, I want to fix another piece of finished, painted plywood over the top to hide a few gaps. How would you secure the final piece of plywood to the unit, In the most subtle and eye friend way???
If possible I don’t want to put screws or nails in the top piece, would like to keep it clean.
Hope this makes sense!?!
Great question! I would have to see it to know exactly what you're doing, but from what I'm hearing you don't want the piece to move and have it secure into place. My best thought would be to use a pin nailer. A 23ga nailer would leave a very small hole where it isn't noticeable.
Design Craft Workshop awesome, appreciate the feedback. I have rewatched this video 1000 times in order to get a finish similar to yours. Hopefully my paint job will do it justice.
Final question, the unit will have walls on 3 sides, would you use silicone caulk to finish the edges where wood meets dry wall. Thanks so much for your help 👍🏼
james hughes I would definitely caulk between the edge of the wall to give it a clean look. Hope this was helpful for you!
Design Craft Workshop perfect my man. Awesome 👏🏽
@@hughes3947 Right on!
Is that a waterbased primer? Does it cause any raised grain on the plywood faces? Is any woodgrain visible on the faces in the end? Ive read one should use a "Surfacer" to make it all smooth.
Thanks
Hi! I have been using water-based products for years in both commercial and residential application. Water-base will raise the grain slightly, but since you’re going to sand the primer down before applying your finish paint it will knockdown any raise grain on the surface. No wood grain is visible for me if you sand between coats and thin the finish paint appropriately. Hope it helps!
Hi did you also apply a wood filler for the rest of the ply wood? or the edge only? Do you also need to sand the last coat?I Learned a lot of things by the way.
Thanks! I added food filler on the edges as well as the seams between the front and the plywood box. You don’t have to sand the final finish coat but before applying the finish coat I recommend sanding
Thank you Bao. Your video is very good and well explained. You’re gonna be good brother. One question please; can you spray polyeutherene with HVLP gun? I’ve just gotten it for a big project. Thank you Bao
Thank you so much! Yes, you can spray polyurethane through an HVLP. That's what I did on this project. ruclips.net/video/FFTQpUA-nT0/видео.html
You'll have to thin out the finish and use the right spray tip. Hope this helps!
Thanks, I really appreciate your instructions, especially when applying putty on the edges. I bought the same DAP plastic wood. But yours looks more "moist" and smooth, where mine looks and feels grainy and seemed to apply like wet sand. Was your wood filler straight out of the container?
Thank you! Yes it was straight from the box. If your wood filler is a bit hard, try spraying small amount of water to soften it. And when you're done using the tub, over the opening with plastic wrap and then seal it off with the lid. Hope this helps!
@@DesignCraftWorkshop Thank you for taking time to reply. Enjoyed your vid, watched a few times to get full learning.
@@goggutube I'm glad it helps!
Great video man! Going to use these tips for cabinets I'm making, the one thing I'm unsure of is the paint. Would you use a different maybe tougher paint for cabinets?
Thank you! For cabinets like kitchen cabinets I highly recommend tinted lacquers. It gives you a very professional look and feel if you use a sprayer. I have used acrylic for some of my cabinets in my laundry room and it’s been holding up really well after 2 years. It key with acrylic is you need that protective polyurethane finish.
Great tips, I'm glad I found your channel.
Question where do you like to buy your wood from?
I'm in Pearland and just starting out with wood working. I'm looking for other sources besides Lowes and Home Depot.
Hey Travis! Shoot me a DM on my Instagram if you have IG or on FB. 👍🏻
Go to one of the hardwood dealers in town. Houston Hardwoods for example. They have veneered plywood as well as Baltic Birch in 5x5 sheets.
Great Video!! :) Thank you! Very helpful! Exactly what I needed:))
I'm glad it helps!
Are you Filipino
Do I look it? ahha. I get that a lot. I'm actually Vietnamese/Chinese.
You mentioned that you were gonna put a polyurethane finish, and then didn't show that part 🤔
🙏🙏🙏🙏🙌
Thanks!
Very poor quality of prep. From 6:22 to 7:16 min of video you can see even where "face" is connected with side of element and all srface is poorly sanded. Next time you can use some cheap aerosol spray over primer and aply it only as myst , it would have role of spy how much sending is needed. As long as you see small dots of spray sanding is needed.
Thanks for the insight
What type of aerosol spray??
What an absolute mess that would be. So many better ways to do this.
Such as?
@@raya0ivy edge banding for one.
@@tundrawhisperer4821 can you list more?
@@raya0ivy you can miter plywood as well to eliminate end grain exposure.
I am sorry, but this is NOT an HVLP sprayer!
Fuji Mini-mite 4 is not? Might want to check their website because it is.