Hobby Cheating 144 - Speed Painting an Army in a Week
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2018
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through a project I recently completed to paint an army in a week. I take you through the way I go about the project to achieve higher quality in a short amount of time. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/u... 
Игры
Vince, This is a genius.The techniques and direction are spot on for another reason. This worked for me with a couple ofmy friends who dont paint and dont really want to sit for hour upon hour glazing and building up colour.This really helped me speed things up for them to enjoy a project and see good enough results that they felt good about their work.Thank you again and again.I love your Tutorials.
Glad it helped! :)
What a fantastic video, with so many great tips and techniques. I'm definitely going to try the oils straight over the metals as I've always hated the way varnishing ruins metallics. The splatter and spidering on the globe was also pretty cool. Massive thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Awesome, that was the goal. I figured no one else would want to paint the same army, but it had a nice variance that I hoped people could borrow items from here and there to get better results. :)
The intro tune is funky as heck! I've never heard it go on that long. Fantastic video as well, lots of food for thought.
It's a great tune. I didn't mean to make it go longer, but I might have missed it in editing after moving things around. This was a big one to put together.
Happy to see you use the same spray booth I do, or if nothing else a close enough match. Getting one of those was my biggest airbrush revelation, letting me work in my hobby room instead of having to go out to the garage or whatever.
Fascinating tip about covering the tip of the airbrush and triggering it to mix in the airbrush, not seen that before but it makes perfect sense. Will have to use that when I get more brave with actually painting with my airbrush (as opposed to the basecoating I mostly use it for).
Thanks for another great video! I doubt I'll ever go through this exact process, but I have certainly picked up some tips and tricks along the way :) (and I'm only halfway through the whole thing)
Excellent, very happy to help as always. :)
Only just started watching this and it's awesome already . Thanks for doing this
Excellent, happy to help as always.
These are the richest tones I have seen in a hobby video in a while. I really like this style of painting and it reminds of the old Renaissance masters. Well done! And a huge thanks for sharing your techniques. There was a time when painting techniques were all highly coveted and kept secret. Thanks again!
Thank you, it's certainly based on that old Grisaille style and it's such a fun way to paint that makes strong contrast fast. Always happy to help. :)
Just received my song of ice and fire kickstarter pledge with some 200 models (!)... They are pretty basic, coloured plastics but still warrant decent tabletop quality paint job. This has been a great inspiration and culmination of your speed painting tricks in one handy location, plus I nearly finished as 12 man unit ;)
Awesome, I hope this helps. :)
Really inspiring to see both the process and end result, especially considering I'm staring at 90 guardsman right now. Honestly I love the fact you can put out models like the Cannones Knight and at the same time turnoff that perfectionist mentality and just get an army to the table in a week when you need to.
Thank you, I think you had a question that was maybe answered, but yes, I did all the matte colors on one figure, start to finish, then did all the metals start to finish per figure. Glad it was helpful.
Yep you answered my question perfectly, just finished watching the whole thing today. Loving the use of sand paper btw, gotta try that
Holy cow, i watched this WHOLE thing, now. I definitely learned ALOT with the sections on painting infantry. I'm going to apply that, very soon. As far as vehicles, i'm not crazy about doing the oil washes. They look amazing, but i just don't want to invest in them, since i already have 2 full ranges of separate wash systems and inks.
Sure, I will say, if you ever want to make the leap, you can get at it relatively cheaply, as you basically need a sepia and a black oil paint and some white spirits (which you can get cheap from the hardware store). Something to maybe have for the future. Glad to help as always. :)
Love that old steam tank!
Yeah, the old steam tank is solid. (Literally, solid metal)
Interesting way of doing things. I'm going to work soon on a Khorne army, that video is full of ideas.
Thank you, and that was really the goal. I didn't expect everyone to follow exactly what I did here, but I was hoping that some of my ideas could be integrated into your own projects. So I just kind of threw everything at the wall to hope some stuff would be sticky and useful. :) - Thanks for watching and commenting.
@3:21 yeah, the luminark is a nightmare ("this is going to be a real challenge"), i primered it in pieces entirely, and am painting each one as i assemble it, i can't imagine assembling it all, then trying to primer and paint, so many open and closed areas, tiny bits and bobs and points of interest, it's maddening. i have no doubt you'll make it beautiful, can't wait to see it when it's done.
Yes, my solution for this project was to ignore most of those bits and bobs. ;)
This is a great video. I'm struggling with putting together my Bolt Action armies in a reasonable time frame. It takes me quite a while to get mine together. This would normally take me months of weekends to paint.
You can do it! I hope this gave you some good ideas to move forward.
What a great video. In addition to speed paint, it is a great starter paint video. Because it is speed, you have no complex techniques, don't rely on perfect brush control a=it is all about OK, but gets a great result :)
Exactly right, sometimes the right color is done. :)
Good one, Vince! I'm guessing a purple something on the tanks would help them belong to the unit, too. I think your being very accurate with a lot of your strikes helps a lot with the speed painting too. Maybe at some point I'll try that with a few zombies, just to see if I can "take a big dab" at that pile of zombies I have... ;)
Thanks for sharing!
The best way to do it is just to start and zombies are perfect. :)
Great guide Vince, thanks! Given that the glorious return of the rats would seem to be imminent, I think this video is going to come in very useful! Going to crack out that Spire of Dawn box at last!
Actually, perhaps I could ask a follow up question? If you were going to paint - oh I dunno, let’s say 120 clanrats, what would you use for the brown fur/skin using this approach? I was thinking game air Rust, as I’m not sure if there is an Ink that would be the right choice.
It would depend on the fur color, a black ink thinned could make an excellent black/grey fur. FW Daler Rowney Sepia (or some of their other brown tones) could work wonderfully for traditional brown fur. Likely one of those two is where I would land, though I will say a thinned Rust could also be awesome for sure. You are in the right space there, you would just want some good flow-air to get it flowing into the cracks of the fur. Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella it does - thanks for the response! Sepia is one of the FW inks that I haven’t picked up yet.
I found this incredibly helpful thank you, also thanks for taking the time to repeat yourself a lot across your videos to help get across some of your more important tips
Thank you, always glad to help and I try to share and repeat the stuff because you never what sticks or what people watch (i.e. every video could be someone's first). Thanks for watching and commenting. :)
The little guy with the quiver for Kurnoth Hunters is responsible for all the melee attacks on the warscroll though! Wysiwyg concern! But your point is valid. Granted, details often make the models look cooler, pouches, magazines, bandoleers, etc. I've found it hard to resist adding all the bits that models come with to add variety to the ranks and make their silhouettes interesting.
For me, I have never had a great love for them. That being said, no issue there, just make sure that you think about how many you add when speed is the overriding goal. :)
When I get up in there and slap it around I get pretty sloppy myself
Its just what happens. ;)
1:17:45 Shading with oil paints
2:15:15 Weathering with oil paints
Me trying this at home: Getting oily with oil paints.
Love the idea of using steam tanks for 40k.
Edit: just realized that isn’t what you are doing....still a super cool army idea though. Thanks for the great vid
That's okay, I totally would use them there to. That would be some cool conversions for like an Ad-Mech army with some appropriate conversion bits.
Watched this one for the second time. Why you ask? I am slow painter and like to get a little faster, so searched for "speed" on your channel and found a bunch that are interesting. I watched most vid's when they released, but have improved a lot since then and understand your tips much better. Also making notes and commenting as I go.
That's awesome, and always happy to help. :)
Army Painter flesh wash is also Very good over any flesh tone but I haven’t tried over white.
Thanks for the marathon video, I really enjoyed it because it confirmed that a lot of things I had worked out were the right way to go about things.
Can I ask if you will be doing any ore videos on painting metals other than steel or gold as I am slightly tired of brass just being treated as dirty gold and bronze being treated as dirtier brass, and am beginning to think that most figure painters have never actually seen bronze at all.
The only person I seen trying to do these properly is Angel Giraldez, but he loves his NMM.
As soon as I can find a brass and bronze I really like in TMM and settle on my NMM recipe for them, yes I will. :)
As always another great hobby cheating video and I’m only 30 mins in! As someone getting back into painting after a 20 year break this series has been a great help. Quick question, on the first models you painted were you using a medium with your paints on the glazing part of the process or just water? Cheers
For the most part, just water. I always use a little flow-aid just to keep things moving.
I am interested if this kind of "glazing approach" will work with desert schemes, too (more historical orientated - more subdue colors). Anyhow, this is dope vid and a rockin inspiration for own speed painting projects in the future! Thank you very much!
It would as long as your desert scheme is quite ochre. I would use warm zenithal instead of a standard zenithal (i.e. I would use Very dark brown, mid brown/rust and ivory and then deep ochre over top).
This video comes at a perfect time for me. I want to paint up a small khrone bloodbound in the middle of some 40k projects (knights, kill team etc). However one thing I've struggled with is the trim. Traditionally khrobe is red and brass/gold trim. So I'm curious what your idea of a nice khrone sheme in this style would look like? Assume I like what ever colors you think would work! Appreciate your awesome vids :)
I think red is perfect, use the Warm Zenithal highlighting from my previous video (Dark Brown, Rust, Ivory) and your red will be smooth as butter and warm. Then just edge with the gold. That being said, that edging is going to take a while as it's ornate.
Such a great tutorial! Thank God the chair got some oil though 😂❤
Nicely clean and painted uniform army.
That was the goal, nice uniform, tabletop army that still had some visual interest.
As always great video. Iwas wondering on the middle tank you did not drill the cannon was it because it was made out of metal?
Yes, and just wouldn't drill, that thing is made of crazy tough metal. I did drill out all the Handgunner barrels. :)
Hi Vince, I must've watched 30 of your videos in the past month. Amazing stuff, and inspiring me to try to get better. I have a question. When you prepare your palette, have you already watered the paint down? If so, what's your method? (i.e., do you put ta drop or two of water on top of the paint, or next to it, or keep it completely separate, etc). I'm also a bit worried that the 'old-timey' look glazes give may not be the most suitable for some of my minis - Arcadia Quest, for example, has a chibi style that I think wouldn't look great this way.
Thanks, and truly thank you for the informative channel.
Thank you, glad the content was helpful! I just put the paint straight on the wet palette. The wet palette does some work to thin and I add water as necessary from there (through water on the brush). Hope that helps.
As to the Chibi's, it depends on what you are aiming for. Chibi's should have bright colors and high contrast. When I do Chibi's, I do this first and then just reinforce, pushing the contrast and the saturation up through additional glazes, but as always, YMMV and there are many valid roads to the same end of a painted mini. :)
i did a similar time saving thing a while ago on some celt (well, quite a few, 100) and for that I did a really dark base skin tone, the I did a mid tone skin tone heavy drybrush, then did a bright skin (elf flesh something like that) glaze to tie it all in, and it worked perfectly! looks really nice even up close, still not done though as I have not done the cloths yet :P
Great tactic, I love it. :)
I love your long videos, so nice to have something to work along with! ...I noticed you didn't 'seal' the dry pigments, do you find that is or isn't an issue once you start handling the models (playing)? - thanks.
Didn't have any issue with it, as long as the pigment is minimal and well worked. You would want to fix it if you are handling them often.
Haven’t tried inktensity wood yet but Vallejo Flesh Wash Ink makes amaizing red wood or red leather over white and browns.
Good tip, I will have to give that a try, flesh wash is so versatile.
This video solves the one thing I never understood about zenithal highlighting.
Basically, I didn't know how the method would differentiate, for example, the "troughs" of upward facing, undulating surfaces (e.g. within ripples of fabric on a shoulder), as the whole area would have just been blasted white from above. Conversely, points of the model that would blatantly catch some light may have ended up grey or black if something directly above happened to be obscuring the white spray.
Objects are illuminated by both direct sunlight from above and daylight from almost every direction (i.e. if a building is blocking the sun you are not standing in darkness).
In this regard, I guess the white spray kind of represents the sunlight from above, and the wash/drybrush adds the subtleties of the additional daylight illumination/shadows from other directions.
Yep, this is really why I do both for jobs I want to either do quickly or ironically to a high level, so I can really map out those early values.
Thanks Vince for The Incredibly Helpful Video! Gonna try This Approach for Sure. : )))
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Yet another Fabulous Tutorial!
Do you varnish your tabletop minis? I was thinking particularly about the shiny tanks with oil wash and pigments?
Nope, not generally, I usually varnish competition pieces to even out the finishes before any metallics have been applied if I am using them, but other than that, not really.
I love this video. Oddly enough I kinda fell in love with the way the sketch style models look prior to adding color that I ended up using grey as a primary color in my army theme haha. Thanks for the content
Great job, learned a bunch, many thanks.
Awesome, happy to help as always.
Thanks, this looks interesting. The resulting colors look quite muted, giving the army a very realistic look (less high fantasy). Is this inevitable when working with glazing over b/w sketches?
I'm not saying this to take away from the results. Like you say in the introduction, it might lend itself more to some armies than others.
Yes, you tend to get a more muted color from this technique. Is it absolutely the result? No, you can reinforce it some, but it takes layers of glazes to build up and increase volumes, so it does extend the time, but if you look at my competition work, some of it is quite vibrant, but they all started like this. Now when you are being speedy and using Black and White, yes, it will almost always be muted because the desaturation is a result of the translucence. One interesting trick is to increase the information by using something other than black to white for your undershade. With warm colors, you can use a dark brown to ivory, your red/orange/yellow will then be quite vibrant, but you can't work with blues, greens or purples as easily. Hope that helps. :)
Vince Venturella thanks for your reply!
I love the pimp my purple chariot. Does the wizard have leopard skin trim on his robes? I also like the way you were spraying the ball and it looked like OSL on the guy holding it.
Totally, and high heel shoes with gold fish in them.
LMAO
Thanks, that was awesome and I can‘t weit to Text this tomorrow.
I was looking forward on the basing step, unfortunately it wasn‘t in there. Would you mind to also show how to do the bases? They look so nice!
Thanks a lot for your hard work:)
I had actually recorded myself making and painting these bases on the Hobby Hangout channel, you can fin part 1 here - ruclips.net/video/suGldGW67D0/видео.html
Hope that helps. :)
That was exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks so much!
Follow up question, as I don't own any of those inks with the dropper: what makes them special in comparison to GW inks or Lavado Wash from Vallejo?
Thanks again :)
So the inks are more pigment rich and preserve their colors even when thinned. They are effectively more powerful than any of the washes.
Would love to see how you speed paint black orcs. Having so much trouble with them due to lack of detail. A lot of pics tend to include lots of added detail work like freehand symbols and added scratches etc.
Well, the short answer is this. You can either speed paint them or you can do them nice. They are just large flats. I have 2 units and they were the most time consuming part of my Ironjaws outside of the main megaboss on crusha because you have to make them interesting. Now if you are going for tabletop, then they are quite easy, zenithal and a thin layer of color over the armor, wash the skin green, make the weapons metal, some light shading on the metal and done.
Ya was trying to toe the line. Was origonally thinking I could speed paint them super faster due to how simple they were, (just like painting marines or something akin). But there isnt anything to break up the color so they just dont look right. Planning on adding some checkers and battle damage, need to practice on making thin scratches for armor. Will probably make a post on google for feedback, when done with a test model.
Hi Vince! Incredible work, as always. Wonderfully instructive video. The oil based shadowing is definitely a technique I'm adding to my arsenal! :) However, I was a little bummed that you did not show any of your distressed wood work, on the tank decks or the barrels. At 2:11 you come back having ALREADY COMPLETED the "drybrushing and painting" of the wood and go back to working the metal. This was one of the most anticipated parts I was looking for. Can you describe your process there? Thank you again!
So I've touched on the wood in a few other videos, but the funny part is it's so very simple. Happy to describe.
So you start with a zenithal, then do a little drybrush with ivory, then apply a nice wash of Scale 75 Inktense Wood. Let it dry. Wash with Agrax earthshade, light drybrush of an appropriate color to get the tone you want (light brown for fresh wood, ivory for dry wood, grey for old wood). Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella Indeed sir! I actually found your video on the Sylvaneth Wood Tones (#47) which is excellent. Never used the Scale 75 paints/inks (bought some!). I was just wondering if you did anything different on the barrels and wood decks on the tanks since they have that distressed oily residue look. Was that a black ink wash? I assume you didn't use the oil based wash on the wood, right?
Great work !
Thank you, much appreciated. :)
Been meaning to watch this one and I think is will help me free up a bunch of AWI minute men who are not completely uniform nor sharp looking. I understand the point of doing one at a time is good for allowing wet blending, but I would be afraid that doing one at a time (vs. steps in batch) I would forget what i did on each miniature before it! Pros and cons I guess?
Sure, it's certainly horses for courses, but I have just found it better and a more regular flow of the feeling of accomplishment when you go that direction.
Hi Vince, great tutorial, thanks very much. Please can you explain why you wash with oils?
Sure, they flow better and take hours to dry, meaning I can clean them off the large flat areas and avoid staining the whole model or making it coffee stained. Washes make models look dirty and messy over larger flat areas, but oil can be cleaned up and really gives a nice sheen to metal.
Oh, also, I do have a video in the Hobby Cheating series on this one as well.
I've got a tournament in February that I'm going to be taking my Iron Warriors to. That means, I've got to get 2000 points ready to go in a couple of months - that means keeping the paint scheme simple, in a similar way to how you painted the tanks, leaning on the airbrush, using washes and not adding too much detail.
My plan is to get them all ready, then in the months that follow, slowly add extra detail to the models - such as ammo pouches, holstered bolt pistols, etc, and paint on hazard stripes on various plates of their armour.
Is your plan to revisit this army at a later date, or do you always look forwards to new projects? I've also got shelves of Imperial Guard to get painted, but I can't allow myself to do a lesser job on the Iron Warriors without planning on coming back.
This army (or at least these figures) are done, I may add some stuff later, but for now it's done. That being said, your method you are describing there is a great way to go about it, as long as you know you will return. ;)
Can you do a video that focuses only on your inks and glazes? Which brand you use for what, and the secrets of mixing a glaze from a normal base color. Great video as always
Sure, I am going to do a total ink review at some point here, so that will be a perfect change to do that. :)
I' ve been rather attracted to acryllic inks by places like molotow or montana, inks intended for acrylic ink pens that come in useful to edge highlighting colours as well as your usual colours, also metallics. Very thin, smooth and convenient to find. Would love to know how they compare though.
Perfect timing since I just got Blood Rage and only want a quick game ready job on all those clans (more love for the monsters). Please spell the flesh aid shade stuff. Thanks!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
This is probably way late, but it's Reikland Fleshshade from Games Workshop
Wow what a wonderful insight in speedpainting at this high level! What do you think about using the Warcolours glazes for this type of speedpainting? How are their glazes compared to other brands? Something that has to be watched out with them or is good to know when using Warcolour glazes? Thanks in advance!! :)
Yes, I use some of the Warcolours Glazes, they are great, I love them, but there is a very limited range, with only 6 colors. That being said, they are wonderful and would work perfectly for this. I use them exactly for this type of tinting when the colors align and I am not using inks.
Thanks a lot for the input and information. Appreciate it :)
@Vince Venturella You mentioned cleanliness of models being detrimental to speed. Could a painter balance that with color scheme simplicity? For example, Adeptus Custodes and Grey Knights benefit from clean color schemes, but they're very monochrome, being overwhelmingly gold or silver. This (in theory) lets you cover a lot of ground quickly because so much if each model is a single color. Would you agree with this assessment?
100%
You're a wizard Harry!
I was expecting the letters to arrive by owl any day.
biggest problem for me is that the paint dries up too fast in my brush, and I have to spend extra time cleaning it before applying a different paint
Hmmm...So a few thoughts. 1) That might be a good reason to use the method I said opposed to the traditional factory line (as the paint is in your brush for less time between color changes). 2) You may want to be using thinner paints, as if they are drying, in your brush, they can't be that watered (I guess, depending on the amount of time they are staying there). 3) You may want to just try rinsing out every so often in the middle of a color. It can also extend the working life of your brushes by preventing the paint from being in the ferrule.
If I don't have inks can I just make glazes with my paints but use all the same techniques?
Absolutely, I like the inks because they are naturally transparent, but paints can certainly do the same thing. THe higher pigment paints (such as Scale 75) will generally do better.
sorry for the question i love the purple affect im guessing the purple ink is purple lake do you have any idea what the light purple your using is ?
No different purple. There is only one purple ink in play here, the rest is just thin glazes of the same purple ink over ivory, the magic of undershading. :)
Great video! How did you attach all the models to the bases? Pinning? Or just super glue?
Some of them were already pinned on he bottom into the base, but for the most part, Gel Super Glue, it's pretty rock solid, especially for light plastic miniatures.
Hi, great video (as usual :-) ), watched it twice by now. Unfortunately, I have a problem with the daler rowney fw black ink. When using it to further shade the zenithal primed miniatures, it behaves strange when drying. Once dry there ist almost no color within the recesses, but on flatter surfaces?! Do you happen to have an idea or hint? I tried different additives too thin the ink, but happend nonetheless. Thanks!
So here is my advice, that ink is so strong, it's tough to get the right glaze (I worked my mixes several times before I liked it). Going with something like Nuln Oil can be faster and is what I would recommend for easier usage.
With the ink, what I discovered is that a mix of water, glaze medium and flow-air made it go into the recesses properly, but it was a bit of a chore.
Thank you for the advice. Ok, so it is not just me having some trouble with it. Later on I used the (thinned) ink to tint a surface black and oh boy, it is really strong. Worked like a charm.
Cheers :-)
Nice work my dude
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Long shot if you still recall, but you do happen remember to what ratio you mixed the initial black ink, water and glaze medium ? Just came across this and works perfect for a bunch of wood elves and ranges I will be doing.
Very thin, like 8 to 1 at least.
@@VinceVenturella cheers!
Hi Vince,
I applied you tutorial for speed paint an army in a week for my 400 Burgundians (video on my channel). but scince GW contrast Snakebite Leather came out i am thinking to switch it with the scale 75 inktense wood.
Do you keep the Inktense Wood or would you change it for the Snakebite Leather?
Thank you for your awesome tutorials!
I think it would be fine to make the switch, they are actually very close. :) - Glad it was helpful.
20:00 I have noticed that inks/washes/contrast paints have a tendency to go true the baking paper instead of staying on top of it, while I have no issues with normal acrylic paint. They stay on there for a while (maybe 30-60 minutes), but regular paint stays on there much longer (days even). Have you had similar issues?
Yep, especially with inks, it can happen.
@@VinceVenturella did you find anything that help to prevent this from happening? Different baking paper, sponge, letting it breath or closing the lit, or anything else?
what inks would you recommend for someone who doesn't have any? I'm interested in buying some but as i'd have to order online I would rather get a good range to save on postage and buying them individually. I'm currently painting mostly in red/brown schemes but of course am using cooler colours too. I'm not sure whether I should start with a very basic colour range or buy more specific ink that may/may not be the shades/tones I'm looking for
Start basic. I would recommend the Vallejo Game Ink 8 set. Solid colors, high pigment and multi-purpose. They are a good pick-up and get tons of usage out of them. From there, Scale 75 would be next along with some choice Daler Rowney FW inks (white, black, Payne's Grey).
Would you incorporate Contrast paints in this technique? For example for flesh tones? Is it worth it to give some color variation? Hair colors is an easy choice, but what about skin?
I would, actually I would probably just replace the inks with contrast paints of appropriate colors as they are quite well made for exactly this technique.
Any thoughts on Silly Putty vs. Blu-Tack for masking? I've seen people use both, but didn't know if there was any significant advantage to one over the other or if they're pretty much the same. Also, do you get new Silly Putty after paint has built up in it long enough, or is there a way to clean it out?
So two thoughts, I find Silly Putty comes off easier (as the blue tac really wants to stick sometimes, where as silly putty really sticks to itself, so you can use a clump to remove any danglers), but I am sure they would both work. Yes, I eventually throw it away and buy a new egg. It lasts a while but I've never had a good way to clean it.
Thank ya!
where did you find the miniature of the globe on the Celestial Hurricanum?
It was actually a little plastic globe I found sitting around, I think it might have held a toy originally.
Hi Vince, just wanted to see if I could confirm some of the colors you’re using:
Purple - Daler Rowney Velvet Violet or Purple Lake
Sepia - Daler Rowney Sepia
Strong Tone - Army Painter?
Thanks a ton, awesome video! Going to give some of these colors and techniques a go on my 200 clanrats!
Purple Lake, correct on all counts beyond that. Hope that helps. :) - The real key is just inks, any colored inks can generally achieve this effect. :)
Vince Venturella Awesome, this helps a ton! I’d actually been wavering between purple or red for Skaven, but with this video I’m thinking maybe they’d work with both!
This is an older video, but do you remember where you got that incredible head for the Lord Ordinator?! Love your videos and use Warhammer Wednesday as a podcast
I believe it is the head from the Lord Venator (the shooty SCE hero).
@@VinceVenturella Two years later, thanks for taking the time! You're also completely correct, Knight-Azyros / Knight-Venator kit
I think I recognise some of your musketeers as the old War Wagon crew?
You have a sharp eye, they are indeed. :)
Hi Vince. Can I ask how long did you leave the wash to sit before starting to pull it off with the dry brush and what the approximate ratio of oil paint to white spirit was? Thanks in advance.
About 20-30 minutes, the ratio always varies each oil paint and white spirits are different, but make it so you can drag it up the side and then it runs cleanly back down.
Fantastic vids.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Hey Vince, I was going to try and adapt this to Skaven with flesh, orange, and furs by replacing the colors here with the ones from your Warm Zenithal video. Quick question, instead of your black ink wash that you do in the beginning, do you think I’d be better off either using a dilution of FW Sepia or Seraphim Sepia instead of the Black Ink to keep everything “brown”?
Absolutely, the warm zenithal would be great. My advice would probably be something more like Agrax, you still want a little black to really deepen those shadows.
Vince Venturella that’s a really good point, I’ll grab some of that and give it a whirl for the next step. My first foray into zenithal ended with my warm bone color maybe thinned a bit too much and sprayed too close (seemed to wash into the recesses), but excited to improve!
Do you remember why you chose watered down black ink over something like Nuln Oil/Dark Tone? One disadvantage I see with the ink is that they are a little more fragile and prone to reactivation.
EDIT: you later said you could use Nuln Oil, but that would be weaker (in color) which could be a advance and I guess also a disadvantage if you looking for deeper shadows.
Yep, just wanted really deep shadows. :)
there's a line that show in the midle of your globe i suppose that's due to assembly do you have a tutorial on how to get rid of that or is there an easy way to remove it ? i picked goblin fanatics as my first models and i have the same problem with their balls of steel and i don't really know how to get rid of that properly also thanks for the video it really motivated me to start my first army btw :)
yes, it was time and laziness that I left it there. The normal way would be sanding, you want something likesome 400 grit sanding paper (I get it from an auto parts store) and it should smooth right out.
thanks a lot worked wonderfully also thanks for all the help you provide :)
Hey so the ivory that you're using to highlight the wood and stuff around 22:30, is it your Scale75 mojave white?
Might have been, honestly, any Ivory (VMC Ivory, any GW Light bone color - anything) they will all work.
Hey Vince, I'm totally sold on Valejjo steel paint after seeing this, but I was wondering if you have a preference between the airbrush version of Val Steel or the regular model color steel? Seems like you thinned down the regular here, just curious if that's cause you are used to doing that and don't bother with the air version or if it's because there's something you don't like about the air version!
It's Vallejo Metal Color (not model, not air), metal color only. It says airbrush, it works for both brush and airbrush. It's the only acrylic I trust for metals.
It's this stuff - www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Silver-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A94O64/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=vallejo+metal+color&pd_rd_i=B012A94O64&pd_rd_r=8328b83a-bf96-43d8-82a1-a112ec5360f6&pd_rd_w=IIO7p&pd_rd_wg=mXa8o&pf_rd_p=1cb3f32a-ccfd-479b-8a13-b22f56c942c6&pf_rd_r=6MC314XT82AHQ1W1P2FH&psc=1&qid=1576346990
accept no substitutions.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a ton Vince! The result is amazing. Can't wait to try.
The issue what I have against this type of value sketch glazing is that it makes pastel highlights. My red highlight is not red, it's pink, blue is not saturated blue, it's light blue etc.
Am I doing something wrong, or what are your thoughts on this?
So with a single glaze, you can often end up with a pastel highlight. You have two options. 1) Do your final highlight color (zenithal or drybrush) in something warmer - Ivory, sand, bone, medium fleshtone, something like that. It will remove the pastel effect (since Pastel is really just a high tint or the color + white). 2) Do a few more glazes. The white will still make that area bright, but it will be closer to the true color.
Hi. Can I ask what you used for the globe on the hurricanum?
A small plastic ball I found in my bits, I honestly have no idea where it's from, but it's about the size of those gumball things you get out of the little machines.
How does the dry pigment affix to the model? Will it fall off over time?
Most won't no, but it depends on how often you handle. I don't handle the models themselves very often and I make sure to get rid of most of the excess that is easily removed. If you need to fix it, a little pigment fixer, or varnish of any kind can be used, or even a little isopropyl alcohol. You just want to be careful as if you are using a colored pigment, it will change color slightly when you fix it.
another question, what size do you pin your models? im using a 1mm pin size but it feels like its way too big
I use paper clips, 2 sizes I order in bulk. I can't tell you the exact size, but a small paper clip and a big one. For most jobs, I use the small paper clips, which I believe are around .8mm, the larger ones are 1.2 I think and I use those for larger jobs. I order bulk drill bits from Amazon.
lol... literally had a comment window open to ask about "water based" oils at the 1:55 min mark when You mentioned it...
Well, there you go. :)
Im planning on using a similar technique with a bucket load of chaos cultists i need to paint, rather than inks, would i be ok with just washes (Army Painter)?
They are weaker, so it's going to take more layers, but it can be done. A single coat of a wash will have less of an effect and be more transparent. It will work, but it's not as fast. Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella cheers bud :-)
Hi Vince, isn't the the drybrush redundant to the zenithal? Both highlight the top in white, while leaving the rest black? Thanks.
The zenithal doesn't produce a true white, because it's going over black or grey and because it's coming from the airbrush, it tends to be actually light grey. Brushed paints are more opaque and will produce a truer white.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks for the clarification.
Hi Vince, what is the ratio for the FW Ink and water. I'm trying your technique for Batman GCC and the ink is much more darker than Nun Oil. Thanks
The black ink is really strong, I actually ended up using about 8-1 with water/flow improver and ink (so one drop of ink 8 drops of water/flow improver).
Thank you
thanks for the tips, as usual a great video, i do however have one niggle the one part of the video that i wanted to see in sharp detail was the figure you were working on and because you're only in about one third of the frame while your working all the background is in sharp focus and the figure your working on is fuzzy, please don't take this as a major complaint you're possibly the only youtuber that when you show how to do something i can immediately get it, my own execution of it however may leave something to be desired. again thanks for all the effort you have put in over the years.
Sorry about that, the depth of frame is always a challenge when doing big groups of stuff like this (and tough in general) - something I find challenging in every video for sure, but something I am always working on. Hope it was still helpful overall and I am trying new stuff with every video to try to improve that focus issue.
thanks for your reply as always all the information clear as crystal and very useful
Do you have techniques for Napoleonic Armies?
Sure, same techniques could be used, the blues and reds of Napoleonics work excellent over a zenithal and with some strong blue and red ink, you can get a lot of your work done quickly (the flesh would be the same as here,it's really only the white that is going to be troublesome).
How did you prime them at the start ?
Yep I was wondering this too; you say zenithal highlighting, so is that prime black, then prime white from a single (zenithal) direction?
azoxystrobin yes, he has a bunch of videos about zenithal highlighting and priming in the hobby cheating series.
Yes, black all over. Grey from 45 degrees, white from above. I have several videos on it as well in the playlist, here is one that shows the priming - ruclips.net/video/1nDvWs4dsfc/видео.html
What colours did you use for the highlighting ?
Which highlighting? The undershade in the Zenithal is just dead white. For the reinforcement on things like the skin in the undershade, an ivory.
What is the best way to glue on arms? Space marines.
Two options a) Plastic Glue, if applied lightly and a firm pressure is applied, it will melt the plastic together (it causes a chemical reaction with plastic) and they won't come off ever. b) CA (Super) glue, again applied lightly (always apply less glue than you think you need, it dries faster and more completely) with a drop of accelerant. It will dry in seconds and you can move on.
Vince Venturella Thank you! Happy new year!
Would it not be quicker to batch paint?
I assume you mean one color at a time on each one. In this case, with the glazes, I have found it is not. If you find it faster, that's no issue, it's certainly an option. In this case, since we are working with a single glaze in many cases, I find it faster to simply apply the glaze, wipe the brush and apply the next one. Moving through all of them quickly on a single figure. If I have to do just one color, I find it's degrading the tasks to far and I lose a lot of time changing the figures (as I don't have 30 paint holders, but even if you weren't using that - which I wouldn't recommend for working this many figures). The act of the change is longer than the quick wipe of the brush.
Why bother with Zenithal pre-spraying if you're washing/drybrushing before the paint anyway? Aren't you doubling your efforts?
It helps the overall volumes and contrast. Doing both pushes the contrast quite high with basically one thin glaze. THe wash doesn't undo the zenithal and the dry brush is only from above, so it only reinforces the highlights and avoids the recesses where the wash settled.
Nice. How many hours this project took?
This was about 50-60 hours total over the week.
The real question is, did you drill out all of those gun barrels?
Yes I did. All of those handgunners have their barrels drilled out. The big tank I couldn't get it drilled out as that crazy metal is some kind of adamantium. It had a 3+ save against my drill bit.
Hahahaha... Nice.. love the dedication
How long did this take you to do? (Like how many hours of actual painting). Thanks!
It was probably about 40-50 hours of painting over the week.
@@VinceVenturella Wow, thank you so much for the timely response! I realized after I commented that the video was over a year old. Love your content!
This is gonna sound super bad, but how do you paint SO fast while maintaining a cleanliness to your models? paint like a turtle and still have pretty sloppy line work, though not for a lack of effort. I'm just baffled how you whip through painting so fast and it still look great.
Honestly, it's just practice. How many figs do you think you've painted? How many hours? I've spent about 17k hours painting over the last 6 years and painted a couple thousand figures. That's not a brag (if anything it raises LARGE questions about my life and what I am doing with it), just a statement of it's the sort of thing that comes with time and practice more than anything. Over time you sort of develop the brush control through muscle memory. :)
@@VinceVenturella well I've painted 20 guardsmen and 1 leeman russ 😅. Yeah practice makes perfect
Army? One proper unit and some war machines.
to be fair, 2 hours isn't a week
Kind of hard to see with the camera not focusing on what you're showing up close, but overall informational. As a suggestion, in the future maybe try to get the camera to focus on what you're holding up because I would like to see it in greater detail
I am still working on finding the right magic for the depth of field. It's tough to shoot close up and have it also take up the army shot, but I am always trying to improve that stuff every video for sure. Hope it was still helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Even speed painting like this, wouldn't be easier to do sub assemblies on the tanks? Like have the engine area separated from the main body?
Maybe, in general, those are big annoying models and they have some strange interconnecting parts, but instead I just went for the total assembly, but I think it would be totally fair to sub assembly that stuff as well.
"Orks are excellent for this" *looks at the 4 boyz he still hasn't finished after 4 months due to indecision*
Sounds like a decision is in order. :)
GW should rly teach painting this way. I am stuck with the base shade highlight approach. Unblended hghlights rly look like ass...
Yeah, it's one of those things that there are so many different roads to get to a finished miniature. We actually learn in one of the least efficient ways possible, but it's one of the most fool-proof, hence the easiest to pick up.
Dude, you are a machine lol
Thank you sir, much appreciated. :)