Hobby Cheating 218 Painting an Army in 24 Hours
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- Опубликовано: 6 дек 2019
- In this Hobby Cheating tutorial, I set about to a challenge; Can I paint a whole 2k army for Age of Sigmar in 24 hours? I take you through my speed painting process and share tips and tricks to get your models painted and looking good and on the table fast. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Instagram: VincentVenturella
Email: WarhammerWeeklyQuestions@gmail.com
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Игры
When your speed painting looks better than anything I will ever do...
There is nothing magical about what I'm doing and it's nothing more than lots of practice. I promise you could do the same thing over time. As someone with zero innate artistic talent myself, I know anyone can achieve it. :)
@@VinceVenturella I know what you mean about innate artistic talent. I think I do have some "talent" for sketching and doodling, otoh I have no training so I can't do correct anatomy or oil painting or anything really! Really interesting though, I often wonder if you mini painters also do canvas art, now we know!
“This is speed-paint homie, we ain’t got time for that.” Love it!
Thank you, this one got silly at some points, but that's what one would expect 24 hours in. :)
"I'm just gonna hit the very tops of the sternocleidomastoids" Vince lifts.
Gotta push up those plates. ;) (Also, I just remember most muscle groups from school, as I had to memorize all of them and it stuck). ;)
These days they teach teach the muscle with a very simple pneumonic: Get Over Our Good Lives Everyone
As I struggle through some bases for Warcry at the moment, yours are an inspiration. Would love more basing content.
There will always be more basing content, I love bases and I am will always be adding to that for sure. :)
"Any painted model is a good model" 100% true. In fact, my number one rule of mini painting is, "a painted model is an awesome model." Thanks for sharing!
Absolutely, it's a rule I live by and try to shout from the mountain tops.
I really appreciated the thought process behind the tattoos, it was something that I hadn't considered. Thanks for all the great videos and I look forward to catching a sit down class one day.
Thank you, happy to help as always and glad it was useful. Would love to have you in a class sometime. :)
I watch your video 2 years since now, the skills you teaching, the colors you use are inspirational. When I don't know how to paint a project or lose passion to paint, I always come back here to find inspiration. Thanks you, Vince! (sorry for poor English)
That is wonderful to hear and thank you, always happy to help.
Will take me 24 years to paint my remaining Warhammer forces. Here's to the the year 2044 !!!
Well, if you employ some of this, you might be able to push it up to 2030. ;)
@Dave Dogge Haha made my day buddy
I've been looking forward to this video since you first mentioned it, didn't disappoint!
I got around half way through an ogre army a few months back just using/testing the new contrast paints out. I'll definitely apply some of these concepts to what I've got left, as they're mostly war machines/heroes.
I always find videos like these that bridge the gap between effective contrast and efficiency very useful: I've got grey in my ledger, I'd like to wipe it out.
That is my new favorite way to refer to unpainted plastic. I want you to know I am stealing that, it's a wonderful take on that black widow line. :)
A follow up to one of my favourite video of yours, that's fantastic! Thanks to your Empire vid from back then, I finally tackled my old 50+ Kabalites with value sketching and Vallejo's Violet Ink. The results are amazing.
Honestly Vince, your work is inspiring and increased my painting knowledge and abilities vastly. If you ever come to Vienna, I'll damn sure owe you a coffee or a beer...
That's wonderful to hear and I am always happy to help. :)
Great work with a strong sense of being clear what's important and what's not. My best take away, I only use vallejo metal colours for metallics but I do varnish at the end over the whole work and then retouch a bit on top of it. Now I'll varnish early and then end up with much better lustre and shine - thanks!
Always happy to help. :)
Honestly i love this stuff, I'm recently pushing myself to clearing the backlog (yeah i know, we all do that).
I've started to get more "methodical" in the painting and focusing on the important stuff, getting a nice mood instead of getting everything perfect and to be fair i'm loving the armies i'm pumping out WAY more than what i used to.
Painted like 4k points of Ossiarch this week and it's my best army so far, i've had compliments from everyone who's seen it and love playing it.
The limited palette approach was something i took in consideration, limiting myself to very little variations in hues, but pushing the contrast WAY more than i'd usually do.
Awesome, glad to hear it and it sounds like you are winning the war against the grey for sure. :)
I did that once, through drybrushing and random washes I made a magical stone effect and added glows here and there. Great tutorial!
Happy to help as always. :)
Didn’t expect to watch the full thing, but ended up watching it all. Great video, unexpectedly good quality from a smaller channel.
Glad you enjoyed it! Always happy to help.
Your sense of color, contrast, and lighting is really cool. Some of these guys, in particular, bring to mind frames from 300.
Thank you, as with any project, you only see that project and not the thousands of minis before it, but I appreciate that it shows through in that way. :)
Thanks Vince. You're such an inspiration. Great info as always. Really appreciate all the info
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Looks dope as f. Tons of tricks, thank you for showing the recipes and thanks for enlightening me. Will try to do this with my Ogors. You're the best.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Absolutely the best speed painting video to date. Truelly appreciate it.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
This makes me want to pull my old Ogre force out and revitalize it. I used the first generation grey skin tones, so I think I'll need to go back and find your "how to paint grey skin" vid. Tks Vince! Amazing work and super timely as always :D
I say do it, you could certainly apply that grey flesh in the same way you see me do here with these colors. :)
I think you are my spirit animal. Right before you break out a reference or something I find myself thinking of it and then you drop it. Like the slim shady ivory bit. LOL
Excellent, always love it when that happens. :)
Another awesome presentation, Vince! Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Congrats Vince! The army looks awesome, I love those tats :-) What a lovely weekend. I'm in awe at how awake and articulate you were in the final hours and the outro, you kept your mental acuity and your dexterity intact throughout the whole challenge, legendary!
Thank you sir, I know you have walked this road as well, it's a great challenge to set yourself the time and see what you can do. As to the awake and aware, it's just the adrenaline of coming close to the end of the project keeping me going. :)
Always good to see a fellow painter showing respect to his/her peers - Love your channel too, Brent -- keep up the good work.
Man! Im speechless! Congratulations Ive never deben batch painting to this high level
Happy to help as always and thank you, very much appreciated. :)
Never forget to let your colours get up in each others faces 😂 Love this vid. Extremely inspirational. Incredible results for minimum (in the nicest, most respectful way) effort! 👍
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
Good job brother, I am hoping to produce some videos about painting sometime soon, The process of watching every video out there so I don't repeat content already available has commenced! And again, good job brother.
Excellent, more content is always good. Happy to help as always. :)
Inspired me to start a speed painting project. Thanks for the video.
Awesome, happy to help as always.
Neato bro!...proper smashed it! Way to go! Props and sheet :D
Thank you, this was fun for sure.
Hey Vince, Larry and Bob. I'm just finishing watching the vid and thinking about your closing remarks. My Iron Warriors project stalled behind other projects, and I figured out why: the mould line scraping and sanding too so long, on Mk3 marines, it was too daunting to carry on.
But once I get over my obsession with scraping off every. Single. Mould line, then sanding off the flat, then I might, just might, get them painted.
Perfect is the opposite of done, that is what my wife always says. ;)
You are litteraly a One-Man-Studio. Your workflow is worth a book, which I imagine filled with deep miniature lore and flabergasting photos. I would buy that book and study it like gospel, friend.
Well thank you, I apprecaite that very much.
Your voice is so calming
That's wonderful to hear, always happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella ^-^
Hull red! I love this colour as a starter for my reds, but also works as a near universal start from black to any other colour.
Yep, such a wonderful color, it's wonderfully versatile. :)
I bow to your excellence. Thanks again Vince.
Thanks!
Damn it all to hell.
You're too good! thank you for the inspiration, my hobby mojo has been lacking as of late, this has lit a fire.
That's awesome to hear, you can do anything I do here, fight that war against the grey. :)
It'd be super helpful if you could list what paints/techniques you use when painting each material, like the metal, bone or things like that during these speedpaints. I eat the whole video anyways, but if I'm going back for reference in a specific part, like I know I'll be doing with the metallics of this video, it'd be much more convenient than trying to find the part of the video where you talk about it and search for the paints. In any case, really good video as always.
I would really love to see how you might take these to the next level. To use the GW parlance, if these were "Battle Ready" I'd love to see your steps to get them to "Parade ready"
It would be going in with the brush and adding more detail and highlight to the skin, especially the face. Adding texture to the pants. Adding some wounds and scars to the ogres, basically that kind of stuff. :)
Never let the perfect be the enemy of the good! That's my battlecry as I jump back into the hobby after a few months too distracted by video games.Thanks for the pep talk Vince.
Always happy to help. :)
YOU ROCK! When you find the time, can you please show us more about green stuff? I want to know everything!
I am certainly not the absolute expert, but I actually have another tutorial planned with green stuff around this very army and one last ogre in the coming months. :)
Cool! Larry the Multicolour Ogre is having his friends painted up! I hope Bob is amongst them?
Our original ogre friend is still outside of the army, I have something special planned for him later, but all his friends have now joined the painted legions. :)
@@VinceVenturella I'm glad to hear it, and excited to see where Larry's next adventure will take him!
Suggestion: video on choosing wash colors, when to do Brown, black, blue, purple etc
That's a good video idea. I'll add it to the list.
I really like the way these turned out. I think they look amazing.
You’ve said several times that you’d be happy to put these on the table for a fun game. Would you take them to a tournament with a painting rubric?
They would do well at most tourneys and score the full rubric without issue, my tourney armies though I like to be something truly special, but they would certainly do well by the rubric. :)
Only way I seem to paint when I finally get the bug. I just binge paint the biggest batch I can manage to get it over and done with. Very little joy in the process but dam it feels good when it's done.
Makes it very fun when I see something small to paint like a single unit however taking that bit more time on bits.
I can't speak to that, I paint every day because I truly enjoy it. If you like your method, no judgement from me. If you are interested in finding some joy in painting, some of these techniques can help, but you can also try things like focusing on single figures, pushing yourself in a deliberate practice way on a few figure or units, it can really help improve what results you get from your painting.
@@VinceVenturella Yeah thanks for the advice and all the tutorials definitely has helped me over the last year and a half. With death all being so rank and file I didn't mind mass producing too much. But warcry has changed my mindset so much had so much fun painting a small unit I now plan things just for the sake of painting fun.
Hey Vince, great video for those of us with a pile of shame. What would be your personal advice on how to focus on getting better when you’re utilizing some of the speed techniques? I have 2 or 3 armies I need to do something like this with, but for getting better, should I be focusing on the heroes, or pick one element on the army to focus on, or maybe just have a congruent project where I’m focusing on improvement? Thanks for all your hard work!
My best advice is always deliberate practice. So just like you saw me do here, focus on one thing on a group or an army (i.e. do some tattoo freehands, push your contrast, whatever).
If you pick one thing on each project, you will be amazed at how much you advance over time.
Thank you Vince, this is an incredible video and resource. Inspired by this (and the fact that ogres are just pretty damn cool), I've decided to build my own Mawtribes army and get it ready for Armies on Parade later this year.
I'm planning a Norse/Viking theme for my ogres and would like to use pale skin that seems rough and reddened from exposure to the cold. The closest visual match is something like the skintone on the Khorne Slaughterpriest or some of Garrek's Reavers. How I could modify your approach and colour choices for your ogre flesh to work for this skintone?
So basically, what you want to do in that case is push everything into a more pale flesh color in general, take those pale colors deeper, and then push the pinks into the mid-tones, especially focusing around things like the elbows, noses, knuckles, etc.
Also, great opportunity for the deep blue tattoos.
Hope that helps.
@@VinceVenturella Thank you Vince! Now to work out the rest of the colour scheme :)
Awesome job, congrats! I was particularly interested in how you painted the skin, given my next despicable projects of painting dozens of Chaos Marauders :)
You mentioned previous videos in which you showed your method of shooting a base colour from below, could you please link those?
Thanks a lot and keep up being such an inspirational force to the community!
So I do it in the Painting Orc FLesh video where I use hull red from below. It's a fairly simple technique, it's basically just picking a dark red, purple or blue and shooting from a negative 90 degree angle. Basically, you shoot up from below in the opposite of the white in the zenithal.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks a lot, I'll go watch it!
Hi, love all your videos! such a huge database of knowledge! I got one question: if you say 5:1 or 6:1 thinner to paint it is only 1 part paint to 5 or 6 parts thinner?
Thinner to Paint (so 5 or 6 thinner to 1 paint).
@@VinceVenturella thanks!
That was an awesome video :) Did you think about using oil washes for the metals, would have avoided the non-metallic medium issue. I get why if you're doing it in a weekend due to drying time you couldn't but if you were splitting this up in to smaller paint sessions would it save some time?
I did think about oil washes in general. The drying time was the issue here for me with those, given the restriction, I just couldn't let something sit for that long. :)
That's like 40 min per mini in the end, as a comision painter myself I have to say I'm super impressed with the outcome.
Thank you, I think this is a great way to get a good high quality army and I hope some of the tips are helpful in your commission painting.
Great video Vince! Quick question about the making of the bases, did you use cork, texture paste and crackle paint to achieve design of the base?
Yes I did
Great video!
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
That's a fantastic army painted to a very high level.
Whichever way I try, I cannot go down to lower than 22 minutes a figure (with a mix of contrast paints and acrylics) and more likely 30 minutes a figure if I want a good level with mostly acrylics. The best I could ever was probably 6 minutes a figure: beige overcoat, spray the lower part black, and, overall wash. The effect is quite good actually but you can't paint everything like that.
I think 22 minutes is still a great time for sure. :) - Glad to help and glad the video was helpful.
It took Vince over 24 hours to do this. Took me just over an hour to watch it. 😎
Indeed, I managed to cut it down a decent amount. :) - I hope enough still came through.
@@VinceVenturella quality job. Thanks again, Vince!
Very impressive! Also tons of helpful info as usual. If I understand correctly you don’t put any varnish at all on the metal colors? (To keep the shine). Won’t the paint risk to chip off on models like these if you play with them frequently?
Thanks for the video!
That's correct, I don't varnish metal at all. To answer your other question, no, not really. In generally, plastic models don't chip easily. I don't even transport with foam (that is just model suicide), I use magracks. Never had an issue. Hope that helps.
Vince Venturella: Thanks! I also use magnets for transportation. Will stop varnish metal from now on :)
About to tackle an ogor army and will go with that scheme for the skin, it looks great! What's the ratio for that reikdland/agrax and flow improver?
Also Vince, I can't catch the grey ink you used on the boots even though I keep rewinding. If you have the time to let me know which brand and grey ink it is, and the recipe for that wash I would really appreciate it.
Btw, you're definitely my favorite youtuber, so relaxed, so well spoken, a true teacher. Keep it up, I really enjoy your videos :)
What an incredible undertaking! Did you do a proof of concept first, or just pick paints and go?
Just picked paints and went, but I mean, I have a good idea in this case that things like this would work. :)
Awesome, army looks great! Curious, did you make those gold coins for the collector ogre? (forgot name) Was thinking of having some for my Slaanesh Daemons, since greed/gold is one of the layers/plains for 'em
They are a dungeon scenery kit from Wizkids (or whomever makes the Nolzur's and similar minis). They have stuff like bookshelves, magical cualdrons and of course, big piles of money and treasure chests. :) - I found them at my FLGS
Awesome as always. What pressure did you use to spray the 6-1 bugmans glow in the beginning. I am still fighting with my airbrush 😉
18 PSI is my standard setting I run at 99% of the time.
@@VinceVenturella oh that's 1.2 bar... I spray at 1.8... I will try to go lower, and thin more
I can paint a 2000 point army in no time at all:
Trick #1: Don’t start the clock until everything is assembled and zenethil primes.
Trick #2: Say it’s a black and white army and be done with it.
Honestly, as much as I want to slag you for not starting at assembly, you used about four times as many paints as I think I would try for a challenge like this.
Well, to be fair, most of these were already assembled. It was a combination of a legacy army, some ebay purchases and hobby detritus. THe priming and stuff wasn't much time, but in general, I think many people have big piles of grey figures they have assembled but never painted, and that is what I am focusing on. ;)
@@VinceVenturella Is the hobby cheating ogre among them or have you saved him for more tutorials?
@@johncleave I mention it in the video, but he's safe, ready for future tutorials.
@Vince Venturella It’s all good. I think you’re going to have to pull a Goobertown Hobbies and do a 24 Hour session on a Start Collecting Box.
Also, you need to give Scott at Miniac some pointers on speed painting.
Vince love the work. Any chance you could tell me the brand / metal paints you use. Im interested in looking to purchase some, or if you have an affiliate link with united kingdom shipping. Also what material did you use to make the bases. Id have love to have known how you actually made them i appear to have not seen this in the vid as i was watching. I will rewatch again to see if you do mention it. I was busy painting myself :) thanks
Sure, Vallejo Metal Color (not model or game or air) Vallejo Metal COlor (these - www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Steel-Metal-Color-Paint/dp/B012A93HZS/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?keywords=vallejo+metal+color&pd_rd_i=B012A93HZS&pd_rd_r=af627b61-6e5b-4915-93a1-ec7645449bbf&pd_rd_w=HTzlm&pd_rd_wg=w450T&pf_rd_p=1cb3f32a-ccfd-479b-8a13-b22f56c942c6&pf_rd_r=V32R178N5CW3A7XBWHS7&psc=1&qid=1576644580
As to the bases, they were pretty simple, but I had a few people request it, which I didn't even think of. Basically, they were just some cork on the base, then well covered by vallejo basing paste, then multiple types of grit applied (i.e. different sizes) and then some little items for flavor - like skulls, logs, whatever.
I've been meaning to join the rest of the guys at the club and paint an AOS army. I'm now going to actually do that using the approach you generously share here. Thanks.
BTW - attaching figures to the bases. Did you bother pinning, or did you just glue the model straight onto the top of the base?
Awesome, glad to hear it's helped motivate. At the end, yes, I just used some loc-tite gel glue and pushed them in. In this case, they have such solid big feet, it's a good bond.
Thanks Vince
Those bases look awsome i was thinking of a base similar to that for a krieg army , do you have a tutorial on how to make those bases?
I do not, but it was pretty simple and in line with most of my basing tutorials (vallejo basing paste, washes and drybrushes and pigments).
Im planning on doing something similiar in my chrismas holidays. How did you prepare them? Which colours did you use for preshading?
It was a standard Zenithal, I have many videos on the process (see below), but it was basically my standard Vallejo German Panzer grey primer, then grey at a 45 degree angle then white from above.
ruclips.net/video/J-dQU-dSNa8/видео.html
Amazing! Is it possible to obtain similar results with Contrast/Inks? And why didn't you choose this route this time? :)
Sure, in this case, I wanted stronger colors and with all the flesh, building up the flesh tone is just going to look better with the more opaque colors. I certainly could have done the pants with contrast, but the tone I wanted just happened to be these paints as i wanted a denim like color. :)
Great video Vince! Im about to start an ogor army and really learned alot from your videos. :)
That being said im having some problems with my skin.
I zenith with white inc and airbrush 3 different skin colors, but even after 24h the paint breaks when i try to apply a wash :(
Any idea what could be the root of my problem? Its like the "adhesive" in the paint isnt binding to the layer below. Could i be thinning my paint to much?
It's hard to say, could be the paint, could be humidity, could be the thinness. There is fortunately an easy answer. After you do that zenithal and your colors with the airbrush, make your final step a good coat or two of varnish (dealer's choice).
You can then let that dry and basically go from there. Your previous work should be nice and locked in.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the tip :)
Btw i think i have a future hobby cheating subject. "Non-nurgle-weathered skin" :D
I have tried to find a guide on how to paint beat up/bruised /weathered skin, but without any luck. i feel like there should be a fine line between rotten nurgle flesh and a chubby, bruised and pale ogor, since i dont want my ogor army to look like nurgle trainees :b
The bases, sorry if I missed it, did you make these? Buy these? If you made them, how? Thanks! Great video!!
I made them, I have several basing videos and it was basically those techniques. Some cork and vallejo basing paste plus rocks, grit and other detritus. :)
How can I speedpaint my new Slaves army (ie blocks and blocks of old chaos warriors and Knights). Edge highlighting all that black armor feels like it would be a bad time! Thanks for any advice on getting the black looking good fast.
Yeah, black is a tough color to speed paint. You're correct, I am going to put out a video soon on painting black armor in a few different ways. The best way I think I like to do it is still zenithal and then drybrush and then you make a glaze (with brush or airbrush) and slowly glaze it down pulling the black (which I make out of black and dark blue) into the shadows.
how are you mini's attached to the old bases and how do you removed the old base and mount the new one?
They were just glued on, I popped them off with a thin file or clippers and then used Loc-Tite ultra control gel glue to attack them to the new bases.
Great work, question tho why is there a wire in your wetpallet? :)
It's copper wire to prevent any mold from forming. :)
Great work as usual, Vince. I want to add that as you finished your ogre at 32:36, you could also have said that every time you finish one this way instead of doing one little bit at a time, it’s a better example of intentional practice.
Doing this method certainly gives me a hit of endorphins that one color at a time in a assembly line does not.
Thanks again!
You know, you are so right. I didn't really think about it before, but you are exactly correct. The assembly line has a mental exhaustion thing where you don't really see the progress. This way, you really feel like you are getting there. Well said sir.
wow niice!
is there any recipe or hobby cheating vid on those specific bases vince?
No, sadly there is not, you would think I would have done that right, it would have been smart. The short answer is the old cork broken up and glued down, vallejo basing paste, my standard grit mixture and some other small items attached for flavor.
Great job but boy do i miss the grey ogres, So far i havent seen anyone paint them for the new book which is a shame.
Yeah, I was always a fan of the more Caucasian flesh color (clearly as you see here), but the grey is cool.
Hey Vince, I’m looking at getting a new airbrush, mind sharing what one you used here? I’m newer to your videos so if you’ve mentioned it a bunch in others, I’m sorry for asking again. 😅
Two different Iwata airbrushes, the HP-CS, which is my workhorse brush and something I highly recommend, and the Iwata Hi-Line for detail work.
How long did it take you to paint this, IN addition to assembling the models, cleaning them, gluing them together, creating the basing, and painting the basing?
It was about 22 hours in painting as you saw. Most of the models were already assembled as it was a combined army of a legacy force, some ebay pick-ups from 2015 and other bits and bobs. So I didn't really have to do any of that stuff. The basing and everything was in the 22 hours (not the base creation, but all the painting).
The priming and bases were probably a few more hours on top.
If I messed up the skin bad enough that I can't live with it - how far back would you reset? Spray it all back to midtone basic flesh or further to the Bugman's base layer or all the way to just priming it all over again?
Just back to the base coat layer. :)
@@VinceVenturella yeah I thought it about it for more than a moment and came to that conclusion, lol. I don't have the best lighting situation going on so I briefly thought going back to the cold gray stage of the zenithal might be the way to go for visibility - part of the reason I believe my first attempt didn't go so well. Not great light and making small moves up with transparent flesh tones.
It's going a lot better now. Still need better precision with the airbrush, particularly when hitting just the tops of muscle structures with highlights. Finally getting somewhere with controlling the air better on the trigger which is nice.
@@VinceVenturella Annnnd I went too high too fast with the highest highlight and they look all flat again. Way too much of a pale flesh color (reaper scholar flesh).
I'm thinking I can just glaze or filter them back down some after this and move on. Anything you might recommend? I'm thinking the warcolours brown glaze might be helpful here...
Vince, what do you use to thin S75 in the airbrush? Do you mix in a secondary container, or do you mix right in the pot?
I've been struggling to airbrush S75, but Vallejo is fine. Have you found you need to do anything different between the two brands?
Btw, this video made me think totally differently about my new GSC army!
At the moment, I just use my standard thinner mix, 80/20 Thinner/Flow improver, i mix in the cup, but I stir with an old broken brush. I thin it quite a bit, especially standard Scale 75, probably like 5 or 6 to 1.
@@VinceVenturella cheers Vince! I'll try thinning my S75 more.
Wondering if you'd still use inks over contrast paints
Honestly, I use both. They both have similar uses but I use both interchangeably.
... and now I want to paint an Orge army. Great video.
Awesome, they were really fun to paint for sure.
Continuing the war against the grey. Shadowfax's speed!
Look for me on the 5th day, at dawn. ;)
Nice! I am wanting to paint and ogre army in similar fashion but I would like to give them a tipical asian skin tone something along the line of the old mongolian style look...what colours would you use or suggest in that case please?
Shift a little more cork/sepia and you should have the right tones.
@@VinceVenturellaright as cork / sepia instead of the bugman's base or as midtones instead of harvester flesh or flesh 3 keeping bugman's as base?
I noticed that you didn't use a varnish on these guys before using that wash mix on the face and hands after you airbrushed. How did the color not reactivate and get removed from the wash?
Why would it? An acrylic wash won't generally reactivate acrylic paint. That being said, if you are wanting to be sure, you can always hit them with a quick matte/satin varnish.
@@VinceVenturella Maybe I just haven't had enough expierence yet and being a newb lol. I've had various paints peel up that weren't varnished when using washes like GW's and Army painters. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
What psi and needle size do you use while airbrushing?
Standard .3 needle and 18 PSI.
small question: how do you glue models on the bases after you did the bases? do you pin them with some wire and superglue?
That's how most people do it. You pin both legs and push it into the base, then you pin vise through where the paperclip pinning hit. Push the model through the base, after pin vising the base, then superglue the bottom, after you clip off the excess paperclip.
Normally, I would pin feet. In this case, I didn't. These ogres have big giant flat feet and they have a lot of surface connection. So I just used some Loc-Tite Ultra Control gel and I pushed them down.
@@VinceVenturella oh ok thanks. I find it hard to make bases first because the surface is rough and not even (like when I base it with rocks and sand etc) and I never manage to glue them solid on bases :(
What psi are you working at with these very thin paints?
18 PSI, but very tight trigger control.
What blue-black ink did you use? I missed it.
FW Daler Rowney Payne's Grey, it's a wonderful ink and something I wouldn't live without on my paint table. :)
Anyone have a good alternative for Pro Acryl Olive Flesh? It's out of stock!
It's a great color, I think a good Pale Sand from Vallejo would serve you just fine. :)
@@VinceVenturella Amazing! Thanks.
Are these the bases from your Mars bases tutorial just painted differently?
Very similar contruction yes.
@@VinceVenturella awesome, thanks Vince!
what psi do you use when making those thin layers?
18PSI, but I am very careful with the trigger and using minimal air often.
@@VinceVenturella thank you for the quick respond
What psi are you shooting through the airbrush?
18 PSI is my standard PSI for 99% of my work.
@@VinceVenturella thanks for the info! Great videos by the way, must have watched 5-6 in a row last night :)
Man...To think just painting ten Bloodreavers from my Khorne army took me a month :p
Well, hopefully some of this could help move up that number. :)
@@VinceVenturella Hopefully! Painting skin is at same time fun and hard :-)
Isn't that a 50mm base?
Next new challenge. Same but w/o airbrush. =)
I would have to pass on that one. :) - When you have a tool that's good for a job, you use it. I am not hammering screws into walls anytime soon. ;)
Defining Vince Venturella - Award winning miniature painter. Consummate professional, with a splash of Eminem and bro memes.
Much like Whitman, I contain multitudes. ;)
would have been more of a challenge without the airbrush...just upping the bar here :D
Are you trying to kill me. ;)
Stupid question how to do this if I was painting let’s say 15 mm World War I French and World War I German?
I think it would be much the same, but you would likely need more brush work as it's smaller to the point where you airbrush is going to be of less value. So you may want to go for more of the method I used in my painting an army in a week video where I used mainly brush and thinner inks/contrast colors to get speed and contrast.
I think my Ettin will have one face blued and a St. George flag tat on the opposite shoulder.
Seems awesome to me.
Wish I could leave multiple likes on this video
Thank you, very much appreciated. :)
Lots of amphetamines and audiobooks yeah
It's a good tactic. ;)
Would it not be easier to just hold Bob Ross at gun point?
Well, he's sadly no longer with us, so my options were limited. ;)
That's speed painted!? :v
Yep, as you can see, pretty fast to come together. :)
very cool.
Just a pet peeve, why do people say "Caucasian" when they are talking about generic light skin or light European skin? The Caucasus is basically in Asia (Chechenya and other southern Russian states, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and some Caucasian ethnic groups are also in Turkey and Iran). Most Europeans are definitely not Caucasian. The biggest ethnic group in Europe are Slavic people (from Russia to the Balkans). And in the Americas, most people of European descent are not Caucasian either (probably mostly from Iberia, Western and Central Europe and the British Isles). I think this name comes from some old race theory which is completely wrong as humans are not divided into races.
That would be the generic name for that color of flesh used here in the states, :)
@@VinceVenturella so do people describe that tone as Caucasian no matter where the person comes from? for example East Asians or other Eurasian people who have relatively light skin? I think it shouldn't be done. Imagine calling all people with dark skin Nilotes or Congolese.
Shouldve left the square bases on and played 9th age...