I've been using sprue goo for a while; it worked really well on my warscryer citadel. A couple suggestions though: 1. Why fuss over finding the right bottle and cap to use, when you can just drop the sprue into a half-empty bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin? It's designed to hold plastic cement, so there should be no worries about it melting the cap or anything like that, plus it comes with a built in applicator in the cap. 2. I'd also suggest throwing in a bit of coloured sprue from a Gundam model if you have it; this adds a little colour to your slurry which makes it easier to see what's slurry and what's plastic when you are filing and sanding it back down.
I just got back into the hobby after about 15 years off due to family commitments, largely due to finding your channel. I have been binging your videos whilst 'working from home'. I have learned more in the last 2 weeks than I did in about 10 years painting when I was younger. Thanks a lot!
Brother, I just love it. The idea, tips, warnings, and foremost presentation. Comedy is pretty solid too. You’re just a natural. This o’house of the hobby world. Thanks for help ✌🏼
Liquid Mess! My favorite gap filler - glad you finally got around to making a video on this stuff :) I usually use scrap plasticard for this, but I like to have the difference in color to show the material I added when sanding/filing.
So you shouldn't have to worry about plastics around the Tamiya Thin or Acetone if they are urethane based. It's why the Tamiya thin cap is plastic and the little plastic brush inside of it don't melt. Same for acetone bottles that are plastic. I typically have 3 Bottles of Tamiya Thin - 1. Clean Bottle for adhesive use 2. Dirty bottle with some plastic in, but not much that I use for smoothing down irredularities in plastic caused by scraping or sanding on areas too small to sand and polish properly. 3. A Bottle as you see here that is basically a liquid plastic filler. Because Tamiya thin is primarily just acetone with like some malic acid in it that gives it that familiar sweet smell. You can thin your bottle of plastic slurry with more tamiya thin or acetone if you feel it is getting too thick or you have left it open to work on something for too long and it is drying out.
@@VinceVenturella Something of a perfectionist and when there wasn't a practical way to fix details or smooth areas that got damaged I found the really thin plastic glues could just smooth those areas out if you applied it sparingly and gently. Just like you would when glazing. However when you do this, you sort of pick up some of the plastic in the brush and transplant it back into your bottle, so over time the bottle becomes contaminated. A bit less 'hot' as scale modelers would say, but that is actually a bonus for smoothing out the plastic, as it is less likely to burn too much, it will stay smoother like it did when you filled the sides of steam tank. So if you want to make a number 2 bottle from scratch a good way is to actually take a sprue and a blade and just scrape off plastic from the sprue into little curly shavings and put pinches of it in to dilute the glue. The shavings are so much thinner plastic that they melt into the pot very quickly. But something scale modelers do as well is apply tamiya thin onto a flat area wet, then while the area is still quite hot and the glue has had its chance to melt the top layer of plastic, come in with various tools like an old stiff brush or sculpting tools to bash up the area and essentially make it look more worn and lived. If you aren't happy with the result or want to go again, just let it cure, then fix mistakes with your filler bottle and then go again. You can even apply it to smaller areas and work it with a stiff older brush and create more textured 'rusty' areas that when you paint and weather normally will really be textured. Once everything is cured as well you can still go back and polish/sand to get a smoother result of your work. So you can give tanks that cast metal appearance.
@Vince - I use butyl acetate and acetone in a 50-50 mix to make my plastic cement. It's the same formula as Tamiya extra thin. I followed your advice and made my sprue goo using this mix.
what is the "life expectancy" of the slurry inside the glass jar with the lid on? for how long is it usable in different sessions ? Great video as usual
It will keep for years as long as the lid is kept on as tight as you would for glue normally. Though if you are using it frequently you would need to add more Tamiya Thin or acetone to it, to sort of thin it back out if you find it is getting a bit too thick.
I made my first bottle of this stuff about 2.5 years ago, and then ended up taking a career path that kept me away from the 'house' for 2 years - that same bottle is still ready to rock. as Sock Badger states, if the top is open frequently you'll want to add more solvent as it will evaporate. You can also play around with different consistencies.
@@NarcolepticLTD Yeah you can fill larger gaps if you make a thicker consistency mix with more plastic runners/frames/sprues into the mix. Though you will need to use a sculpting tool or dental spatula to apply it, as it will be too thick for the brush at this point. You can also use this to reinforce the back parts of plastic tanks you plan on chiseling detail into, but fear cutting right through. Combine it with plasticard for an easier time.
After hearing about Tom's conversion to sprue goo on Warhammer Weekly, I realized it was time for me to get over my own intertia keeping me back from finally trying it. I was also inspired by a Slaanesh-ly excessive amount of gaps and cracks in some Nurgle models I'm working on... :P Thanks for the tutorial!
I just made my first slurry and am currently waiting for it to dissolve, great tutorial as always! I thought about adding a couple of drops of ink to stain it to be able to better tell it apart from the plastic. Hoping that'll help prevent that stuff from spilling over etc.
Thank you for mentioning the vortex mixer! I got one awhile back and I am always trying to explain to folks what it does for us in the hobby. Now I can just direct them here!
I know this as sprue-goo. For my own I make it in the poly bottle (a bottle I've used a lot of the glue out of - just add sprue), this has the advantage that you know the plastics involved are impervious to the poly - it also gives you the cap-brush for application. As a note, if in your dry-fit, you see an area you're concerned about gaps or seamlines in; you can use sprue-goo as the adhesive and the excess will squige out of the joint in a very satisfying manner.
This was really useful. I did a bit of research after watching this and you should be able to use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as well which is probably cheaper. The ingredients in Tamiya Extra Thin is 50% n-Butyl Acetate and 50% Acetone. (the quick setting version has different ingredients). The ingredients in Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is 49% n-Butyl Acetate and 51% Acetone. Other brands of airbrush thinner could have very different ingredients, like isopropyl alcohol, so be careful to check what ingredients are used. The Citadel and Revell liquid plastic glues are 100% n-Butyl Acetate. (At least I can now make my own Tamiya extra thin as I can get hold of the Revell stuff easily and acetone is easy to get as well.) It would be interesting to see if using either 100% acetone or 100% butyl acetate had similar effects. They are both solvents so should work to a certain extent, maybe differences in how quick the sprue dissolves, viscosity of the slurry and drying times?
I've been using this exact mix of Tamiya Extra Thin and cut up sprues for years now. Works absolute wonders, especially if you do a lot of converting or kitbashing with plasticard.
Really great. I've got a near-empty bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin and now I've got a use for the bottle and remaining cement. I'm half tempted to delegate the brush cap from the normal Tamiya Cement to the slurry.
The old sprue glue trick...been using it for years. Love it! I use an Tamiya bottle that is almost gone and use the brush that is in the bottle. Works great! I make mine a little thicker and use it like a putty. Cool video...
Great video and Happy Holidays, Vince! I remember learning this trick back in the late '70s early 80's, from if I remember correctly, one of Shep Paine's books. It's helped me throughout the decades, thanks for resurrecting it.
Been using this for awhile now. I've got my gloop in an old Tamiya thin cement bottle. No need to find a cap or a brush. Its already there. You can also use this on an area that got oversanded. Use it like Bondo on a vehicle body. Just wipe a little on the area and then come back and lightly blend it in. Also as far as big gaps. It depends you can fill them with this. But its a long process as in you need to build up layers of to fill out the gap. In the end this is far cheaper and easier to use then putty.
that extra thin glue i accually never bought intentionally though i like using it. i bought a opened model from a thrift store and figured it would use it for parts and there was that glue, paint thinner, black enamel paint and several brushes. i felt like i got a glipse into another modelers building set up
Brilliant!!!! Thanks buddy,thats awesome and really well explained all bases covered. Im off to the 'kitchen.' Thats a video ill drop on everyone who meets the 'filler monster!!!'
Finally got around to trying this last night. I couldn't find any tamya local so I tried this Mr Hobby Mr Cements from hobby lobby. It pretty much just solidified the sprue but didn't make a slurry. I left it over night. The bottom is a hard chunk and liquid on top. My vortex mixer isn't helping. I did try to make more then just the bottom layers worth so I didn't have to do it again for a while. I'm going to try adding a little more cement.
@@VinceVenturella looks like adding the extra cement to it helped. Maybe looks a little thin now really but at least it's not a giant chunk anymore. I'm going to test it out tonight on some objective markers I don't care to much about.
I used an empty finger nail polish bottle. it even comes with a brush that is not affected by the acetone. I think it was a varnish or something. it is glass.
I made some of this and it is amazing. I did get some glue string? That I didn't notice and for the first time in a long time I got fingerprints on my kit. But other than that this stuff is amazing. I labeled mine adhesive-X. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Yep, you have to careful about those strings, they can happen for sure, always be careful and just trim them away with either a knife or if they are very thin, you an burn them away with a lighter real quick.
This plastic slurry Vs Vallejo plastic putty, which one is better ? I know that with VJ Plastic Putty you can easily wipe it away with water and a cloth if you make a mess, I don't think the homemade plastic slurry would be as forgiving though. The seal will be stronger with the homemade plastic slurry compared to vallejo's putty.
You are correct on the clean-up. The advantage here is that everything is completely welded and you have the mass there and it dries fast, but if you get too much, you are basically sanding it down afterward.
Hey Vince, love all the work you do with the channel. I had one point though: might be good to add a little warning to this stuff. I had a pot of sprue goo sitting around for a bit. Opened it up and the fumes that came out of it pretty much immediately gave me a raging headache and nausea. Took me a better part of the day to restabilise. Apparently the chemical process of melting those large amounts of sprue can creat some pretty harmfull vapours.
Vince! You should try plast-i-weld, it's MUCH more potent than Tamiya... I don't even gap-fill regular sized models anymore because it will "bead up" the plastic when you mush two pieces together. Large models still pose problems SOMETIMES, but it will melt this slurry faster with less solvent. Give it a chance, you'll be pleasantly surprised!
Hi Vince, new subscriber and first time poster here! I came to miniature painting from the scale model painting community, and have really enjoyed your videos! As a scale modeler I always felt that the Tamiya glues were decent, but nowhere near as good as Plastruct Plastic Weld or even Plastruct Bondene. Bondene glues like to like, ie. styrene to styrene, where as the Weld is all to all. So, of course, now I really want to try making this slurry with the Weld! But, I have questions: - Have you ever used Plastruct to make a slurry? - Have you ever used a slurry made from GW(?) plastic on another type of plastic? - Have you tried other plastics, such as styrene? - Can you combine different plastics, such as GW + styrene = ? - Can you use a kicker, or accelerator on it? - Have you tried using it with baking soda or baby powder? Whew, I think that's it! Thanks a lot for all you do, and you can blame all this on the guys at Trapped Under Plastic for recommending your tutorials!
Several questions,let me take them in turn. 1) I have only used Extra Thin, though I believe in the comments here, someone mentions using Plastic weld and having great results. I really need to try that as well, as I am sure it would work excellent. 2) I have used plasticard with the plastic glue and that works great actually. 3) I haven't tried Styrene, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, the plastic glue works on it and melts it. 4) I never use an accelerator on my plastic glue (only my CA glue), but I don't know of any reason it wouldn't work. 5) I've never used the baking soda trick at all. I am familiar with it, just never had a need to try it. Hope that helps and glad the video was helpful. Hopefully there are some other items in the playlist. I am always happy to answer any questions you have and welcome to the channel and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :)
Sensei Vince, excuse me sir, I’ve got an answer for you: I did my Sprue Goo but if think it’s still too liquid.. even though I put a good amount of sprue pieces.. should I add more pieces? Does it have to be thicker? I used directly the bottle of the Tamiya ETC cause I saw you did the same in a more recent video. I left half cement liquid then I put the plastic pieces, a generous amount of ‘em, but I find it’s still too liquid imho.. should I add more? Thx if you’re going to answer.
Very nice tip! Thanks! What would be your next stop if you primed it, but felt there was still a residual gap? Would you still use this again, even though it would eat the paint?
Yep, I didn't have an extra old thin bottle (I haven't used enough of it), so I went with this alternate choice instead (I didn't want to make people buy multiple bottles.
You can just use the Tamiya extra thin bottle and the included brush for this right? I have a bottle that's down to the bottom cm and this seems like a good use for it.
Hi @Vince Venturella! In the video you say we should put it in the oven after mixing sprue and glue. Is that just a figure of speak or do you literally mean we should put it in the oven?
"The cap is plastic." Yep, but the odds are extremely high the cap is high-density polyethylene which is extraordinarily inert and reacts with very few solvents. That's what they use it for this like food containers and gas cans. Definitely making some of this to fill the dip in the Blackstone fortress slot bases so I make the characters stand on a smooth, marble looking bases.
Thanks! Is it usable with resin miniatures as well? I'm currently using universal acrylic glue. It's akin to Vallejo plastic putty - white, water soluble, but dirt-cheap
@@VinceVenturella Been using it for about 2 months now.. This is one of the greatest tip ever.. Thank you for making the building / assembly of models so much faster and easier. You're the best!
so the mixture is a rough 1:1? could you also use a fresh bottle of tamiya and fill it to the surface level with sprue bits? or does the fuller bottle present a problem for some reason?
Hey there 👋🏾, love your content and appreciate the time you take informing other hobbyists. I had a question: Have you had positive experiences using plastic sprue goo on resin models? I play Horus Heresy, and a lot of my models are resin. It's a tough material to work with, and I've been using milliput to fill in gaps. I was hoping sprue goo would speed up the process.
6:40 fun fact, camera afficionado here, you shouldn't shake your polaroid photos. Instead, just place it in your back pocket for 2-5 minutes to develop.
My goo did not come out like that at all! It’s really thick, stringy and dries really quickly. I made some tiny balls of “putty” with it to stuff one of the bigger gaps on my mini & I’m waiting for it to dry properly to see if I can salvage the mess but I’m trying to figure out where I went wrong during the process. Can I thin it down with more Liquid cement to make it workable?
Generally, I just kind of scrape it out (it's a junk brush), but if you get some stuff in there, you can break it up with acetone or 99% isopropyl alochol.
How do people deal with the fumes from Tamiya extra thin? I just started using the stuff and it's like I opened a can of gasoline in the house.. this stuff is so potent, but it seems to work very well.
I have a question . Does the sprue goo dry up or “expire” if you leave it sitting in a jar over a long time? I’m thinking if it’s best to make a small amount a time or if you can do a larger batch and use it for a year or more? Also, any tips on getting the right consistency? I never tried making it yet but I can imagine if it becomes too thick that you end up creating new mould lines when you press the pieces together. I usually have a hard time to remove lines when they appear in textured surfaces or concave areas of a miniature as it’s hard to sand and scrape off. Thanks again for all the great content Vince!
On a long enough time line yes, but if sealed in the original bottle, it won't really expire for a while, mine is currently more than year old and still quite workable.
Please tell me more about that model you used as an example. What is that from and do they still have more? I’ve never seen it but I can see it working for some things I’m doing now.
You can't generally, I've switched to using the one in the original bottle, I just dump the sprue into a 1/3rd empty bottle and use that built in brush, I found it easier.
Hello! Would you say using the actual Tamiya thin container would be fine? I use Tamiya glue and at a certain point I can't really use it anymore due to the shape of the bottle and wouldn't mind just adding some sprue and calling it good.
Is the sprue polyethylene ( #4 ), polypropylene ( #5 ), or polystyrene ( #6 ) ? The reason I ask is, I scratch build a lot of my dioramas, and as such, do not have much model sprue laying around.
At the end when you primed it to test for seams, if you found one would you have to clean the primer off, or would just apply more of the slurry directly over the primer?
What am I doing wrong if it starts stringing out like plastic glue within like a second or so after putting the brush to the mini? I literally apply it with one stroke and try to smooth it with stroke 2-3 and then it starts stringing. I'm assuming it's drying. Not enough goo on the brush? too much/little sprue in the goo? Applying more goo at once seems to give me a tad more time, but on a 30mm mini it ends up being way too much for the mini itself covering most of the area rather than a subtle gap fill...
Nice technique! Despite the ingenuity here though, for me personally I still prefer to use Vallejo Plastic Putty for gaps - it's white, doesn't smell and has a lovely tiny applicator which means there's very little excess when sanding it down. Perfect for those long narrow gaps you get so often with GW models.
can this be done with other cement? I have some revel stuff I'm not using. was just gonna put it in a small glass jar, and add sprues. thing is if you buy the tamiya stuff, you need to empty half out into another container to make it, so it's best done with an older jar. I have plastic magic glue at the minute though, so Ideally I'd like to make some slurry from the revel glue, but don't wanna waste it if it doesn't work with other plastic glues.
@@VinceVenturella I'll try. I just wasn't sure if you needed the especially thing stuff. The spare pot I have is thin as well though, and as I have the plastic magic stuff, I'm probs not gonna use the revel stuff. I don't know if the plastic magic stuff is as widely known as the super thin tamiya stuff, but it's the same sort of thing. I think it's preferred for conversions, but I'm not sure why. I just bought it as it was recommended to me. it's a little more expensive than the Tamiya though. I use a lot of Tamiya products though. I have their files and their hobby saw. I will probably end up buying some tamiya glue as well, as I'm pretty sure this guy who recommended uses the tamiya for regular mini building. I think maybe the plastic magic must have a slightly longer working time, maybe? it's made by "deluxe materials" if you wanna look this stuff up. was like a whole 3 quid at least more than tamiya super clear though.
@@VinceVenturella I found the perfect container as well. you ever see those little bottles that have liquid in with some sticks in it? they're a form of air freshener. Well one of those bottles, and I have childproof bottle caps that fit on them, so they're ideal for storing liquids. will just have to see if the cement effects the cap, but I think as long as you're keeping the stuff away from it, it should be fine. (also would not be surprised if the stuff they're made out of is the plastic that it can't melt)
@@VinceVenturella back at this again. I actually got a 2 x bottle pack of this specific glue, so might as well try it out. I'm thinking I might pour some out into a glass medicine bottle though, as I have not been able to properly clean the glass air freshener bottle sufficiently. Do you know if making the slurry in the actual tamiya bottle is possible? I doubt it will melt the brush, as it's already in the glue to begin with. I could just pour some out and then add sprue to what is left.
@@D00M3R-SK8 Yep, it's actually what I do now. I use the bottle itself, the brush of course is made of a material that doesn't react, much easier, wish I had included that at the time.
Vince, we really need a Patreon account man. There are so many arrogant inferior painters that lock their content behind Patreon pay walls. You give us these awesome tutorials for free, with better results and better advice. I don't want you to follow their lead and create a pay wall, but I'd like a way to donate to you for making a difference in my hobby life.
Thank you, I really appreciate that and it means a great deal to me. For right now, this is my passion and hobby and a comment like this is more than enough to say thanks. Who knows what the years ahead will bring, but I am happy with everything as it is right now. :)
I was mad at this video at first for assuming I'd have sprue. I got into the hobby through 3d printing, and decided that if I was gonna invest so much in a 3d printer, I wasn't going to buy any plastic model kits. 3 years later, and... Yeah. Yeah, I've got some sprue lying around. Still way more resin, but it turns out I could only delay the inevitable.
I used a baby foof jar and it worked perfectly for awhile but, the glue eventually ate up the latex seal on the inside of the lid and the slurry dried up and left a hard lump of plastic behind. I will get another lid and move on. While on the subject of Glue, why in the world does the brush not at least reach the bottom of the bottle...VERY FRUSTRATING?
let's play "Can you guess where the parts are from" for the steam tank conversion - I take 5 for 500, Alex... 1.) Power Generator from SM Kill Team box, 2.) Dozer Ram from Chaos Rhino 3.) Walker Legs from Armiger Warglaives 4.) Heavy Stubber from Taurox Prime 5.) Steampunk Cannon from Wolsung(?)
OK so I put it in the oven. Do I just put it in the oven, wait and hope for the best? Do I turn the oven on? If so, would you be so kind as to suggest a temperature setting? It would help a lot to have this information.
Please don't actually put this in the oven, that was a joke I wish I hadn't made. :) - I was just referncing cooking shows. Please do not put toxic solvents into your oven. Just let it sit for 24-48 hours. :)
HI VInce. Excellent and helpful video as always. CMON just ran a kickstarter to do a zombicide version of Night of the Living Dead, and of course, all the figures should be painted in a grey scale, since the movie is in black and white. Getting the African-American Ben skintone in greyscalee seems to me especialy tricky. I looked thru all your past videos to see how to do this properly (aside from zenithal lighting), and couldnt find one that fits. Can you do a video on how to do a greytone scale color(less) palette, especially on how to address darker clothes and skin tones? That would be especially helpful and appreciated Thx Scott
Thank you, happy to help as always. Black and White painting is always tough, I have it on the list, but it's really tough. Here is my best advice and simple cheat though. Take a photo you like of a miniature or image that you would want to copy, and turn it black and white and then really, really stare at it. If you follow that map, you should be able to achieve the middle grey tones, that's where the magic is, all int he grey tones.
How exactly do you clean your brush off the slurry? I tried a natural horse hair brush with my slurry and it's kinda dead now :|. Does it depend on the brush, or do you use a different chemical to clean it?
Hey Vince, would you say this is still the best method? I want to get space marines to a competitive level but I always see gaps or where the gaps where closed. But they never go away. Maybe I just need more practice.
Hey, Vince! Hope you and your lovely family are doing well. I was just going to suggest that you should really start a patreon and let people donate to you for all this hard work you put into your videos. If you ever get a twitch channel going too, it would be another great way to monetize a little more and help you out. You are easily the best teacher in this hobby (not knocking the other channels, they're all great for their own reasons, but you are the best I've found at all around teaching. I've grown exponentially in ability in the last 2 weeks just watching all these hobby cheating videos, and in my opinion you could easily expand your channels reach with patreon and twitch, though both are added time commitments which I could understand if you don't wanna stress yourself out working more. Sometimes making more money isn't actually worth the bullshit that comes with it. Just my opinion, though and I would happily give you 10 dollars a month even if there were no added perks. RUclips plus sub helps you guys out more than just sheer ad revenue, because you'll get a bigger share the more we watch your channel, but still you deserve to be rolling in the dough with how fucking good these videos are. You work incredibly hard and what really shows through is that you work hard out of love for what you're doing. Don't ever change man. You're fucking cool. Wish my dad was as cool as you.
Hey, so I've got a old destroid monster to build that I'll need to use this technique on. Only question I've got to ask is how long you would suggest leaving it in the oven? I know I can just keep checking bit I just thought I'd ask.
So do not actually put this in the oven, this is a joke I regret to this day, I was making an allusion to cooking shows. :) - No, just let it sit for 48 hours and then it will be ready to go. :)
So two things. 1) I've found it's better to use the bottle and the applicator of the extra thin itself. 2) It takes about 48 hours to fully melt everything down. Alcohol will get it off your brush before it sets.
I've been using sprue goo for a while; it worked really well on my warscryer citadel. A couple suggestions though:
1. Why fuss over finding the right bottle and cap to use, when you can just drop the sprue into a half-empty bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin? It's designed to hold plastic cement, so there should be no worries about it melting the cap or anything like that, plus it comes with a built in applicator in the cap.
2. I'd also suggest throwing in a bit of coloured sprue from a Gundam model if you have it; this adds a little colour to your slurry which makes it easier to see what's slurry and what's plastic when you are filing and sanding it back down.
Excellent tips all around. :)
60 years modelling and a no-seams fanatic, and I never knew this trick! Thank you, V.
I just got back into the hobby after about 15 years off due to family commitments, largely due to finding your channel. I have been binging your videos whilst 'working from home'. I have learned more in the last 2 weeks than I did in about 10 years painting when I was younger. Thanks a lot!
That is awesome! Always happy to help. :)
Brother, I just love it. The idea, tips, warnings, and foremost presentation. Comedy is pretty solid too. You’re just a natural. This o’house of the hobby world.
Thanks for help ✌🏼
Thank you sir, I really appreciate it. :)
Liquid Mess! My favorite gap filler - glad you finally got around to making a video on this stuff :) I usually use scrap plasticard for this, but I like to have the difference in color to show the material I added when sanding/filing.
That's a cool idea, I didn't think about the color difference. I always have scrap plasticard, I'll give that a try.
So you shouldn't have to worry about plastics around the Tamiya Thin or Acetone if they are urethane based. It's why the Tamiya thin cap is plastic and the little plastic brush inside of it don't melt. Same for acetone bottles that are plastic.
I typically have 3 Bottles of Tamiya Thin - 1. Clean Bottle for adhesive use 2. Dirty bottle with some plastic in, but not much that I use for smoothing down irredularities in plastic caused by scraping or sanding on areas too small to sand and polish properly. 3. A Bottle as you see here that is basically a liquid plastic filler.
Because Tamiya thin is primarily just acetone with like some malic acid in it that gives it that familiar sweet smell. You can thin your bottle of plastic slurry with more tamiya thin or acetone if you feel it is getting too thick or you have left it open to work on something for too long and it is drying out.
That's awesome, I had no idea on the difference there, that is really good to know and I like the split you have of the three bottles.
@@VinceVenturella Something of a perfectionist and when there wasn't a practical way to fix details or smooth areas that got damaged I found the really thin plastic glues could just smooth those areas out if you applied it sparingly and gently. Just like you would when glazing. However when you do this, you sort of pick up some of the plastic in the brush and transplant it back into your bottle, so over time the bottle becomes contaminated. A bit less 'hot' as scale modelers would say, but that is actually a bonus for smoothing out the plastic, as it is less likely to burn too much, it will stay smoother like it did when you filled the sides of steam tank. So if you want to make a number 2 bottle from scratch a good way is to actually take a sprue and a blade and just scrape off plastic from the sprue into little curly shavings and put pinches of it in to dilute the glue. The shavings are so much thinner plastic that they melt into the pot very quickly.
But something scale modelers do as well is apply tamiya thin onto a flat area wet, then while the area is still quite hot and the glue has had its chance to melt the top layer of plastic, come in with various tools like an old stiff brush or sculpting tools to bash up the area and essentially make it look more worn and lived. If you aren't happy with the result or want to go again, just let it cure, then fix mistakes with your filler bottle and then go again. You can even apply it to smaller areas and work it with a stiff older brush and create more textured 'rusty' areas that when you paint and weather normally will really be textured. Once everything is cured as well you can still go back and polish/sand to get a smoother result of your work. So you can give tanks that cast metal appearance.
@Vince - I use butyl acetate and acetone in a 50-50 mix to make my plastic cement. It's the same formula as Tamiya extra thin. I followed your advice and made my sprue goo using this mix.
Great tip!
what is the "life expectancy" of the slurry inside the glass jar with the lid on? for how long is it usable in different sessions ?
Great video as usual
It will keep for years as long as the lid is kept on as tight as you would for glue normally. Though if you are using it frequently you would need to add more Tamiya Thin or acetone to it, to sort of thin it back out if you find it is getting a bit too thick.
I made my first bottle of this stuff about 2.5 years ago, and then ended up taking a career path that kept me away from the 'house' for 2 years - that same bottle is still ready to rock. as Sock Badger states, if the top is open frequently you'll want to add more solvent as it will evaporate. You can also play around with different consistencies.
@@NarcolepticLTD Yeah you can fill larger gaps if you make a thicker consistency mix with more plastic runners/frames/sprues into the mix. Though you will need to use a sculpting tool or dental spatula to apply it, as it will be too thick for the brush at this point. You can also use this to reinforce the back parts of plastic tanks you plan on chiseling detail into, but fear cutting right through. Combine it with plasticard for an easier time.
Yep, as they mention, it's basically good for a very long time, every so often you need to refresh, but it will last a very, very long time.
Huh, despite have a tight seal, mine turned solid fairly quickly.
After hearing about Tom's conversion to sprue goo on Warhammer Weekly, I realized it was time for me to get over my own intertia keeping me back from finally trying it. I was also inspired by a Slaanesh-ly excessive amount of gaps and cracks in some Nurgle models I'm working on... :P Thanks for the tutorial!
Always happy to help.
The background music in this video is very mystic and gave me the mental image of you making a potion with this stuff
The magic potions for insta-painting are an upcoming video.
I just made my first slurry and am currently waiting for it to dissolve, great tutorial as always! I thought about adding a couple of drops of ink to stain it to be able to better tell it apart from the plastic. Hoping that'll help prevent that stuff from spilling over etc.
In general, I will say that the goo is generally pretty recognizable, but a drop of ink I don't think would change the mix in any detrimental way.
Thank you for mentioning the vortex mixer! I got one awhile back and I am always trying to explain to folks what it does for us in the hobby. Now I can just direct them here!
Yeah, I really love it, it's wonderful to see how easily and thoroughly it mixes everything.
The genius is in its simplicity. Way to use that big hominoid brain. Bravo!! 👏👏👏👏👏
I call it "Sprue-Goo".
Yep, I just wasn't sure I wanted Goo in the title of the video. :)
@@VinceVenturellaha like man-goo yucky!
I know this as sprue-goo. For my own I make it in the poly bottle (a bottle I've used a lot of the glue out of - just add sprue), this has the advantage that you know the plastics involved are impervious to the poly - it also gives you the cap-brush for application.
As a note, if in your dry-fit, you see an area you're concerned about gaps or seamlines in; you can use sprue-goo as the adhesive and the excess will squige out of the joint in a very satisfying manner.
That's a great point, I really should have mentioned just using it as a supplementary glue, excellent call for sure.
This was really useful. I did a bit of research after watching this and you should be able to use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as well which is probably cheaper.
The ingredients in Tamiya Extra Thin is 50% n-Butyl Acetate and 50% Acetone. (the quick setting version has different ingredients).
The ingredients in Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is 49% n-Butyl Acetate and 51% Acetone. Other brands of airbrush thinner could have very different ingredients, like isopropyl alcohol, so be careful to check what ingredients are used.
The Citadel and Revell liquid plastic glues are 100% n-Butyl Acetate. (At least I can now make my own Tamiya extra thin as I can get hold of the Revell stuff easily and acetone is easy to get as well.)
It would be interesting to see if using either 100% acetone or 100% butyl acetate had similar effects. They are both solvents so should work to a certain extent, maybe differences in how quick the sprue dissolves, viscosity of the slurry and drying times?
Fascinating stuff, thank you!
I've been using this exact mix of Tamiya Extra Thin and cut up sprues for years now. Works absolute wonders, especially if you do a lot of converting or kitbashing with plasticard.
Yep, it's my Kitbash go to.
Totally love this. You learn something new everyday thanks
You are the mad scientist of hobbying ;)
Soon I will be hooking up lightning to my miniatures and then we will really have something. :)
Really great. I've got a near-empty bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin and now I've got a use for the bottle and remaining cement. I'm half tempted to delegate the brush cap from the normal Tamiya Cement to the slurry.
oh yeah, you can totally do that, if it's already being dedicated to that, then you are good.
Been looking for a simple tutorial on this. Thanks Vince!
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Vince, you star! I was just looking for a video about this, excellent timing!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
Like a polaroid picture. Gold.
Shake it. ;)
The old sprue glue trick...been using it for years. Love it! I use an Tamiya bottle that is almost gone and use the brush that is in the bottle. Works great! I make mine a little thicker and use it like a putty. Cool video...
Excellent, yeah, this is a great one for sure, it just makes things so easy to fill small gaps.
Great video and Happy Holidays, Vince! I remember learning this trick back in the late '70s early 80's, from if I remember correctly, one of Shep Paine's books. It's helped me throughout the decades, thanks for resurrecting it.
Been using this for awhile now. I've got my gloop in an old Tamiya thin cement bottle. No need to find a cap or a brush. Its already there. You can also use this on an area that got oversanded. Use it like Bondo on a vehicle body. Just wipe a little on the area and then come back and lightly blend it in. Also as far as big gaps. It depends you can fill them with this. But its a long process as in you need to build up layers of to fill out the gap.
In the end this is far cheaper and easier to use then putty.
Totally agreed, this is my absolute go-to.
Awesome thanks Vince. I now have a use for my collection of sprue aside from just testing colors schemes
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
that extra thin glue i accually never bought intentionally though i like using it. i bought a opened model from a thrift store and figured it would use it for parts and there was that glue, paint thinner, black enamel paint and several brushes. i felt like i got a glipse into another modelers building set up
Well done, Vince! Looking forward to trying it out.
Excellent, happy to help out as always. :)
Cool tip ! Even cooler kitbash!
Thank you, it was fun for sure. :)
Brilliant!!!! Thanks buddy,thats awesome and really well explained all bases covered. Im off to the 'kitchen.' Thats a video ill drop on everyone who meets the 'filler monster!!!'
Happy to help. :)
Finally got around to trying this last night. I couldn't find any tamya local so I tried this Mr Hobby Mr Cements from hobby lobby.
It pretty much just solidified the sprue but didn't make a slurry. I left it over night. The bottom is a hard chunk and liquid on top. My vortex mixer isn't helping.
I did try to make more then just the bottom layers worth so I didn't have to do it again for a while. I'm going to try adding a little more cement.
Strange, I've never tried it with anything but the Tamiya.
@@VinceVenturella looks like adding the extra cement to it helped. Maybe looks a little thin now really but at least it's not a giant chunk anymore. I'm going to test it out tonight on some objective markers I don't care to much about.
Just my (not-so) pro tip. I find the brush that comes with the tamiya extra thin is perfect for applying this stuff.
Yep, I've actually moved to that as well. :)
I used an empty finger nail polish bottle. it even comes with a brush that is not affected by the acetone. I think it was a varnish or something. it is glass.
That's actually a great idea. I love it.
I made some of this and it is amazing. I did get some glue string? That I didn't notice and for the first time in a long time I got fingerprints on my kit. But other than that this stuff is amazing. I labeled mine adhesive-X. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Yep, you have to careful about those strings, they can happen for sure, always be careful and just trim them away with either a knife or if they are very thin, you an burn them away with a lighter real quick.
Very cool... I really appreciate all you're work. Thank you
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
This plastic slurry Vs Vallejo plastic putty, which one is better ? I know that with VJ Plastic Putty you can easily wipe it away with water and a cloth if you make a mess, I don't think the homemade plastic slurry would be as forgiving though. The seal will be stronger with the homemade plastic slurry compared to vallejo's putty.
You are correct on the clean-up. The advantage here is that everything is completely welded and you have the mass there and it dries fast, but if you get too much, you are basically sanding it down afterward.
Hey Vince, love all the work you do with the channel. I had one point though: might be good to add a little warning to this stuff. I had a pot of sprue goo sitting around for a bit. Opened it up and the fumes that came out of it pretty much immediately gave me a raging headache and nausea. Took me a better part of the day to restabilise. Apparently the chemical process of melting those large amounts of sprue can creat some pretty harmfull vapours.
Good to know.
Vince! You should try plast-i-weld, it's MUCH more potent than Tamiya... I don't even gap-fill regular sized models anymore because it will "bead up" the plastic when you mush two pieces together. Large models still pose problems SOMETIMES, but it will melt this slurry faster with less solvent. Give it a chance, you'll be pleasantly surprised!
Awesome, I will have to give it a try. :)
Thanks Vince! Great tips- as usual
Hope your Christmas holiday was good
My christmas was great, thank you and happy this video was helpful. :)
Thanks for sharing this great technique!
Always happy to help. :)
Hi Vince, new subscriber and first time poster here! I came to miniature painting from the scale model painting community, and have really enjoyed your videos!
As a scale modeler I always felt that the Tamiya glues were decent, but nowhere near as good as Plastruct Plastic Weld or even Plastruct Bondene. Bondene glues like to like, ie. styrene to styrene, where as the Weld is all to all. So, of course, now I really want to try making this slurry with the Weld! But, I have questions:
- Have you ever used Plastruct to make a slurry?
- Have you ever used a slurry made from GW(?) plastic on another type of plastic?
- Have you tried other plastics, such as styrene?
- Can you combine different plastics, such as GW + styrene = ?
- Can you use a kicker, or accelerator on it?
- Have you tried using it with baking soda or baby powder?
Whew, I think that's it! Thanks a lot for all you do, and you can blame all this on the guys at Trapped Under Plastic for recommending your tutorials!
Several questions,let me take them in turn.
1) I have only used Extra Thin, though I believe in the comments here, someone mentions using Plastic weld and having great results. I really need to try that as well, as I am sure it would work excellent.
2) I have used plasticard with the plastic glue and that works great actually.
3) I haven't tried Styrene, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, the plastic glue works on it and melts it.
4) I never use an accelerator on my plastic glue (only my CA glue), but I don't know of any reason it wouldn't work.
5) I've never used the baking soda trick at all. I am familiar with it, just never had a need to try it.
Hope that helps and glad the video was helpful. Hopefully there are some other items in the playlist. I am always happy to answer any questions you have and welcome to the channel and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :)
Sensei Vince, excuse me sir, I’ve got an answer for you:
I did my Sprue Goo but if think it’s still too liquid.. even though I put a good amount of sprue pieces.. should I add more pieces? Does it have to be thicker? I used directly the bottle of the Tamiya ETC cause I saw you did the same in a more recent video. I left half cement liquid then I put the plastic pieces, a generous amount of ‘em, but I find it’s still too liquid imho.. should I add more? Thx if you’re going to answer.
In general, you want something a little more viscous than honey, but in that neighborhood, so more pieces if you’re not there.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, always kind and helpful. ❤️
I have been waiting for this! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Is this method more preferable than the matte vanish method?
I use both, depending on the gap.
Milliput mixed with isopropyl is similar, but works with metal and resin.
Good tip!
Damn this is a great hobby cheating video. You’re a mad scientist
Thank you sir, happy to assist as always. :)
Very nice tip! Thanks! What would be your next stop if you primed it, but felt there was still a residual gap? Would you still use this again, even though it would eat the paint?
Yep, I would just do this again (or go to matte varnish if the gap was really small) and then lightly sand.
You can also mix milliput with isopropyl alcohol.
That's interesting, I will have to give that a try. :)
I'm gonna have to mess with this one...
@@VinceVenturella The alcohol part starts about halfway through:
ruclips.net/video/EY8Acdi59M0/видео.html
I use an old Tamiya Extra-Thin bottle and the built in brush for my 'sprue goo'.
Yep, I didn't have an extra old thin bottle (I haven't used enough of it), so I went with this alternate choice instead (I didn't want to make people buy multiple bottles.
This is a technique I'd forgotten about! It used to be referred to as 'sprue glue'.
Yep, it's something scale modelers have been using for so long, it was great to bring it more over here into miniatures. :)
Useful tips here - many thanks! Just wondering if one were to use clear sprue this could be used as a canopy filler?
I would imagine so yes, never thought about that. :)
You can just use the Tamiya extra thin bottle and the included brush for this right? I have a bottle that's down to the bottom cm and this seems like a good use for it.
Yes you can, I just didn't like the existing brush as was a little too small to really spread.
Hi @Vince Venturella! In the video you say we should put it in the oven after mixing sprue and glue. Is that just a figure of speak or do you literally mean we should put it in the oven?
Just a figure of speech.
"The cap is plastic."
Yep, but the odds are extremely high the cap is high-density polyethylene which is extraordinarily inert and reacts with very few solvents. That's what they use it for this like food containers and gas cans.
Definitely making some of this to fill the dip in the Blackstone fortress slot bases so I make the characters stand on a smooth, marble looking bases.
Yeah, I learned the plastic difference later. The slurry is so useful, it's my go to.
Thanks! Is it usable with resin miniatures as well? I'm currently using universal acrylic glue. It's akin to Vallejo plastic putty - white, water soluble, but dirt-cheap
Sadly, this is only for plastics, you will need to use the plastic putty as you mentioned or something similar for resin. :)
What do you clean the brush with?
Thanks
So I have changed to using the brush to the little thin brush that comes in the bottle, it's just easier.
OMG what a geat tip! Can't wait to try this out!
Happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella Been using it for about 2 months now.. This is one of the greatest tip ever.. Thank you for making the building / assembly of models so much faster and easier. You're the best!
Nice work mate what's the shelf life on the filler?
Basically forever. I mean it will eventually dry out and you may have to add some extra thin plastic glue. But it should easily last several years.
so the mixture is a rough 1:1? could you also use a fresh bottle of tamiya and fill it to the surface level with sprue bits? or does the fuller bottle present a problem for some reason?
Yep, you're pretty correct on the ratio (though you can always modify slightly). Yep, I always do the just fill a fresh bottle now.
Hey there 👋🏾, love your content and appreciate the time you take informing other hobbyists. I had a question: Have you had positive experiences using plastic sprue goo on resin models? I play Horus Heresy, and a lot of my models are resin. It's a tough material to work with, and I've been using milliput to fill in gaps. I was hoping sprue goo would speed up the process.
You an gap fill with it if the model is already assembled.
Ive seen alot in the mini world. This was cool. This earned you a sub from a great painter
Thank you, very happy to help. :)
6:40 fun fact, camera afficionado here, you shouldn't shake your polaroid photos. Instead, just place it in your back pocket for 2-5 minutes to develop.
If you don’t have plastic cement you can also use acetone. It’s seems to break it down in a similar way
plastic cement is pretty much pure acetone actually
My goo did not come out like that at all! It’s really thick, stringy and dries really quickly. I made some tiny balls of “putty” with it to stuff one of the bigger gaps on my mini & I’m waiting for it to dry properly to see if I can salvage the mess but I’m trying to figure out where I went wrong during the process. Can I thin it down with more Liquid cement to make it workable?
Yes, too much sprue, not enough glue. You need to add some more glue, let it sit for 1-2 days and see if you get this thinner consistency.
what do you clean the brush with afterwards?
Generally, I just kind of scrape it out (it's a junk brush), but if you get some stuff in there, you can break it up with acetone or 99% isopropyl alochol.
A great one for the to box. Thank you
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Have you tried to add more plastic so it will be thicker or maybe leave the cap off the bottle to let it solidify more?
You can do that, you can play with the ratio to get different effects.
How do people deal with the fumes from Tamiya extra thin? I just started using the stuff and it's like I opened a can of gasoline in the house.. this stuff is so potent, but it seems to work very well.
I will be honest, I don't notice them, but I have almost no sense of smell.
Well, that was a very cool tip! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I have a question .
Does the sprue goo dry up or “expire” if you leave it sitting in a jar over a long time?
I’m thinking if it’s best to make a small amount a time or if you can do a larger batch and use it for a year or more?
Also, any tips on getting the right consistency? I never tried making it yet but I can imagine if it becomes too thick that you end up creating new mould lines when you press the pieces together. I usually have a hard time to remove lines when they appear in textured surfaces or concave areas of a miniature as it’s hard to sand and scrape off.
Thanks again for all the great content Vince!
On a long enough time line yes, but if sealed in the original bottle, it won't really expire for a while, mine is currently more than year old and still quite workable.
Please tell me more about that model you used as an example. What is that from and do they still have more? I’ve never seen it but I can see it working for some things I’m doing now.
It's something I kitbashed from scratch. It's the Alcomite stacks furnace with legs from the armigers, but it's more or less a total kitbash.
Vince Venturella
Thank you. I can use the center part to kitbash what I’ve been looking for on a diorama I’m doing. If the scale works. 👍
Late to the party but will this work on smaller models too? Like shoulder pads? Thanks for the video.
Absolutely, I basically use this to put together all my models and fill any gaps.
What a great help. Does anybody know how to clean the brush?
You can't generally, I've switched to using the one in the original bottle, I just dump the sprue into a 1/3rd empty bottle and use that built in brush, I found it easier.
i would like to know if there will be in the future any kit bashing videos at all ?
Oh yes, I have a few kit bashing videos planned. :)
Not all plastics respond to that thin cement, I'm sure there has got to be a type that won't melt, and fits as the lid.
Hello! Would you say using the actual Tamiya thin container would be fine? I use Tamiya glue and at a certain point I can't really use it anymore due to the shape of the bottle and wouldn't mind just adding some sprue and calling it good.
Yes, this would be a great plan honestly, if you get to the bottom of the bottle where there is just enough, it's a great final use for sure.
Is the sprue polyethylene ( #4 ), polypropylene ( #5 ), or polystyrene ( #6 ) ?
The reason I ask is, I scratch build a lot of my dioramas, and as such, do not have much model sprue laying around.
I would have to say I don't know - basically, whatever GW sprues are made of.
At the end when you primed it to test for seams, if you found one would you have to clean the primer off, or would just apply more of the slurry directly over the primer?
Yep, just right over the top, sand it down, new layer of primer.
Why do you use thin glue? or does it come down to how you want the consistency of the goop?
You can use either, the consistency is a little better for my tastes with thin, but either work.
What am I doing wrong if it starts stringing out like plastic glue within like a second or so after putting the brush to the mini? I literally apply it with one stroke and try to smooth it with stroke 2-3 and then it starts stringing. I'm assuming it's drying. Not enough goo on the brush? too much/little sprue in the goo? Applying more goo at once seems to give me a tad more time, but on a 30mm mini it ends up being way too much for the mini itself covering most of the area rather than a subtle gap fill...
It's something you kind of get over time, but sounds like we need a little more plastic cement.
@@VinceVenturella alright, I'll try adding a tad and see if it improves, thanks for the tip!
Nice technique! Despite the ingenuity here though, for me personally I still prefer to use Vallejo Plastic Putty for gaps - it's white, doesn't smell and has a lovely tiny applicator which means there's very little excess when sanding it down. Perfect for those long narrow gaps you get so often with GW models.
Totally fair.
can this be done with other cement? I have some revel stuff I'm not using. was just gonna put it in a small glass jar, and add sprues. thing is if you buy the tamiya stuff, you need to empty half out into another container to make it, so it's best done with an older jar. I have plastic magic glue at the minute though, so Ideally I'd like to make some slurry from the revel glue, but don't wanna waste it if it doesn't work with other plastic glues.
I haven't tried with other plastic glues, but there is no reason it wouldn't I would think, it's all chemically the same thing.
@@VinceVenturella I'll try. I just wasn't sure if you needed the especially thing stuff.
The spare pot I have is thin as well though, and as I have the plastic magic stuff, I'm probs not gonna use the revel stuff.
I don't know if the plastic magic stuff is as widely known as the super thin tamiya stuff, but it's the same sort of thing.
I think it's preferred for conversions, but I'm not sure why.
I just bought it as it was recommended to me. it's a little more expensive than the Tamiya though.
I use a lot of Tamiya products though. I have their files and their hobby saw. I will probably end up buying some tamiya glue as well, as I'm pretty sure this guy who recommended uses the tamiya for regular mini building.
I think maybe the plastic magic must have a slightly longer working time, maybe?
it's made by "deluxe materials" if you wanna look this stuff up. was like a whole 3 quid at least more than tamiya super clear though.
@@VinceVenturella I found the perfect container as well.
you ever see those little bottles that have liquid in with some sticks in it? they're a form of air freshener.
Well one of those bottles, and I have childproof bottle caps that fit on them, so they're ideal for storing liquids.
will just have to see if the cement effects the cap, but I think as long as you're keeping the stuff away from it, it should be fine. (also would not be surprised if the stuff they're made out of is the plastic that it can't melt)
@@VinceVenturella back at this again. I actually got a 2 x bottle pack of this specific glue, so might as well try it out.
I'm thinking I might pour some out into a glass medicine bottle though, as I have not been able to properly clean the glass air freshener bottle sufficiently.
Do you know if making the slurry in the actual tamiya bottle is possible? I doubt it will melt the brush, as it's already in the glue to begin with. I could just pour some out and then add sprue to what is left.
@@D00M3R-SK8 Yep, it's actually what I do now. I use the bottle itself, the brush of course is made of a material that doesn't react, much easier, wish I had included that at the time.
Vince, we really need a Patreon account man. There are so many arrogant inferior painters that lock their content behind Patreon pay walls. You give us these awesome tutorials for free, with better results and better advice. I don't want you to follow their lead and create a pay wall, but I'd like a way to donate to you for making a difference in my hobby life.
Thank you, I really appreciate that and it means a great deal to me. For right now, this is my passion and hobby and a comment like this is more than enough to say thanks. Who knows what the years ahead will bring, but I am happy with everything as it is right now. :)
I was mad at this video at first for assuming I'd have sprue. I got into the hobby through 3d printing, and decided that if I was gonna invest so much in a 3d printer, I wasn't going to buy any plastic model kits. 3 years later, and... Yeah. Yeah, I've got some sprue lying around. Still way more resin, but it turns out I could only delay the inevitable.
Hard to escape.
I used a baby foof jar and it worked perfectly for awhile but, the glue eventually ate up the latex seal on the inside of the lid and the slurry dried up and left a hard lump of plastic behind. I will get another lid and move on. While on the subject of Glue, why in the world does the brush not at least reach the bottom of the bottle...VERY FRUSTRATING?
It is frustrating. I have started just using the actual jar itself for the glue and mixing in.
let's play "Can you guess where the parts are from" for the steam tank conversion - I take 5 for 500, Alex...
1.) Power Generator from SM Kill Team box,
2.) Dozer Ram from Chaos Rhino
3.) Walker Legs from Armiger Warglaives
4.) Heavy Stubber from Taurox Prime
5.) Steampunk Cannon from Wolsung(?)
Close, the stubber is from the Imperial Knight kit, the cannon is the old empire cannon.:)
OK so I put it in the oven. Do I just put it in the oven, wait and hope for the best? Do I turn the oven on? If so, would you be so kind as to suggest a temperature setting? It would help a lot to have this information.
Please don't actually put this in the oven, that was a joke I wish I hadn't made. :) - I was just referncing cooking shows. Please do not put toxic solvents into your oven. Just let it sit for 24-48 hours. :)
May it be used as simple Glue to assemble figures parts (miniatures, or 3d printed ones, resin, FDM) ?
It's still plastic glue at the core, so it's not going to work on resin or metal, but you can use it to gap fill on those models.
Interesting, I wonder if that can be used to fill in "print" lines from pla 3d printing
They would have to be plastic so it melts in, I am not familiar enough with the materials to know if it would melt in. :)
HI VInce. Excellent and helpful video as always.
CMON just ran a kickstarter to do a zombicide version of Night of the Living Dead, and of course, all the figures should be painted in a grey scale, since the movie is in black and white. Getting the African-American Ben skintone in greyscalee seems to me especialy tricky.
I looked thru all your past videos to see how to do this properly (aside from zenithal lighting), and couldnt find one that fits. Can you do a video on how to do a greytone scale color(less) palette, especially on how to address darker clothes and skin tones? That would be especially helpful and appreciated
Thx
Scott
Thank you, happy to help as always. Black and White painting is always tough, I have it on the list, but it's really tough. Here is my best advice and simple cheat though. Take a photo you like of a miniature or image that you would want to copy, and turn it black and white and then really, really stare at it. If you follow that map, you should be able to achieve the middle grey tones, that's where the magic is, all int he grey tones.
Hi VInce than you for the reply. I'll have to practice on sold on minis before tackling the NOTLD release next year.
So this is the genesis of the sticker on your cutting mat 😂
Indeed
That file you used, is it a homemade one or is a nail file?
Just a nail file, got a big pack of them and then cut them down. :)
If not real brushes available what else could I use? Any one have a tip?
You can just use the brush in the actual bottle if you just put the sprue directly into the full bottle of extra thin.
@@VinceVenturella That’s good to know! Cheers Vince
How exactly do you clean your brush off the slurry? I tried a natural horse hair brush with my slurry and it's kinda dead now :|. Does it depend on the brush, or do you use a different chemical to clean it?
You have to clean it quick and use isopropyl alcohol. That being said, yes, always use just junk brushes.
How long does it take to dry? And does it need to cure? I'm sure you covered this in the video but I've got a lot of distractions around me lol
Generally about 30 minutes and it's pretty set, It can take a few hours to completely cure and set.
Hey Vince, would you say this is still the best method? I want to get space marines to a competitive level but I always see gaps or where the gaps where closed. But they never go away. Maybe I just need more practice.
Yep, drop some in the joint, let it squeeze out, use the regular glue to flatten it back down, then if you need to sand afterward.
Hey, Vince! Hope you and your lovely family are doing well. I was just going to suggest that you should really start a patreon and let people donate to you for all this hard work you put into your videos. If you ever get a twitch channel going too, it would be another great way to monetize a little more and help you out. You are easily the best teacher in this hobby (not knocking the other channels, they're all great for their own reasons, but you are the best I've found at all around teaching. I've grown exponentially in ability in the last 2 weeks just watching all these hobby cheating videos, and in my opinion you could easily expand your channels reach with patreon and twitch, though both are added time commitments which I could understand if you don't wanna stress yourself out working more. Sometimes making more money isn't actually worth the bullshit that comes with it. Just my opinion, though and I would happily give you 10 dollars a month even if there were no added perks. RUclips plus sub helps you guys out more than just sheer ad revenue, because you'll get a bigger share the more we watch your channel, but still you deserve to be rolling in the dough with how fucking good these videos are. You work incredibly hard and what really shows through is that you work hard out of love for what you're doing. Don't ever change man. You're fucking cool. Wish my dad was as cool as you.
Fortunately, I have that :) - www.patreon.com/VincentRVenturella
@@VinceVenturella you’re the man! I’ll join tonight when I get home!
@@VinceVenturella how often does your 50 dollar a month option open up? I assume you must be booked out pretty far for classes!
@@Southboundpachyderm It varies, the answer is not very often really, but I will certainly post about it in the patreon first if I add more slots.
@@VinceVenturella sounds good! Thanks again, Vince!
Hi Vince. Have you ever used plastic glue to remove mold lines? Is so, have you found a difference between certain types of plastic?
I have, I use it to clean up small mold lines, I couldn't really give a whoel break-down, I've mainly used it on GW models and haven't had an issue.
Hey, so I've got a old destroid monster to build that I'll need to use this technique on. Only question I've got to ask is how long you would suggest leaving it in the oven? I know I can just keep checking bit I just thought I'd ask.
So do not actually put this in the oven, this is a joke I regret to this day, I was making an allusion to cooking shows. :) - No, just let it sit for 48 hours and then it will be ready to go. :)
Once u have made the slurry how long do you leave to set before filling down?
Also water doesn't seem to rinse it off my natural brush.
So two things. 1) I've found it's better to use the bottle and the applicator of the extra thin itself. 2) It takes about 48 hours to fully melt everything down. Alcohol will get it off your brush before it sets.