I just saw your video 4 years after its release but it still is a fantastic help for anyone into miniatures and 3d prints. Thanks so much for these great tips!
Ditto! 50 years here! You taught an old dog a new and hugely helpful trick! Doing my first metal figure and the seams are kicking my ass. No longer! Ha!
Here is another tip for you all that I use often. You can mix your milliput 50/50 with childrens plasticene to make a more flexible putty when it hardens. This greatly reduces costs when sculpting many figures. I use this mix to bulk up my wire skeletons before doing the sculpting proper.
THANKS HEAPS MATE! SO USEFUL! My local store was out of liquid green stuff and I needed to get heaps of gaps filled so grabbed a box That tips has been perfect!
You've taught me so much! Thank you. I'm a reseller and because of you I've been able to repair chipped and cracked ceramic. I even fixed a canister that had a hole in it that was textured. You couldn't even tell there was a repair.
Such a stunning secret Marco! Probably the most help I've gotten for sculpting, it's exactly what I'd hoped liquid greenstuff would be but never was. Stopped using milliput years ago because there were other options without the chalkiness. This option removes that issue, gives infinite adjustment and the ability to add particles to a "cream" for rust and surface texture effects. Superb for adding raised damage effects on bullet/shell hits, building up noses and cheekbones for restoring poorly cast facial details. With my first mix I added bigger pects and six pack abs to a unit of feral orcs, fixed the hair texture on two models as a proof of technique, added bullet hits and rusted up a trio of gaslands cars and a tanker, painted it onto a wire armature I'd made for wings for an android sculpt project, pasted it onto an archway to make the stonework relief and add some runes for OSL, added bark and roots to two creepy twisted trees made of wire, filled some really disgusting gaps on some wolves I bought years ago, turned a tub of random beads into clusters of alien eggs some creepy hanging egg sacks and with the last of the mix textured a handful of bases. Next time I'll mix less... Next job add distinguishing features and detail to my mass of Deep Madness dupe sculpts that I reposed with hot water and then add damage and details to my collection of scifi doors. I can finally put a new arm/hand/spell on that ridiculous medusa from black rose wars Filling cream and detail paste from Milliput - who'd have guessed? Plus I do love the smell of isopropyl, I was a lab chemist years ago, exiled to the solvent lab a couple of days a week, now if only you could find a hobby excuse for using diethyl ether... Wonder what it does to magisculp? Great work Marco, just like with your oil paint washes, you're out there experimenting and developing practical techniques for us and then demonstrating them clearly. Great inspiration but more then that it's practical help.
I've been struggeling with my Tyranids all night yesterday to fill the gaps and didnt even get through one large model in 2 hours. So I went out and looked for videos. So glad I found this. Will be trying it tonight :-)
It's called Milliput Juice. Back in the days of metal-miniatures it was used to smooth out the rather rough surfaces. Milliput ist great because it reacts different to water than Greenstuff. Milliput tends to get kinda creamy. Thanks for the video. Good reminder that Milliput is perfect tool for filling those little gap.
Great tip will be using it on my necron warriors. Goodbye to those terrible gaps on their shoulders! Thanks for probably the most useful sculpt tip in 20 years
Okay. Saw this a few months ago and it has been invaluable. It's a great video! BUT one thing that is worth adding is that the exact same method is amazing for getting a smooth surface for areas that you have sculpted. So, if you have a rough area with a few errant tool marks - don't panic, do your best. Then let it dry and essentially give it a wash using the exact same metho posed. And much like a glaze or wash, it will run into the various cracks and divets that are on the model, making a nice smooth area. I may or may not have first tried this whilst trying to get a witch elf bum looking smooth....
@WinterXL reposing it into a riding position. Wanted my warlocks to match the rest of the army, and have a unit or two of allied dark riders to accompany them. 😊
I have to admit. I have used Milliput , green stuff you name it. Seen tons of videos about Milliput and no one and i mean NO ONE has taught me anything besides you with the alcohol trick. that is pure genius!
Something else about miliput that I love, is that watered down (with alcohols or water) is that it fills in print lines from 3D prints too. Makes the parts look like they were plastic-injection molded!
I'm blown away with using isopropyl and milliput! I just received a metal miniature that had a crack in the caped area. Never seen anything like that before. This method made for a quick fix and it worked great! I love learning something new and getting to apply it. Great tip and instruction, Marco. Big fan!
I've never heard of this before! I knew about using isopropyl on polymer clay like Sculpy but didn't even think that it would work with Miliput too. I prefer Miliput for it's cost and versatility and now that value has just be multiplied. Thanks for the techniques share.
Its a handy thing to use if you want to alter your miniatures, I used it for my Chaos army giving them capes and hoods, also its great to use as a mold, i made a million tiny warhammer skulls out of this. Brilliant stuff.
New subscriber here. I have watched many videos on milliput and you are right no one knows This trick. Most videos show them thinning it down with water which in my experience takes forever to get the consistency you need and makes a huge mess. When it is thinned with water, it also seems to lose adhesion to the surface when dried. Thank you so much now that I know this I can fill gaps and fix imperfections with ease. Thank you for your videos and keep up the good work!
Thanks a million!!!😍 This is definitely what I hoped to achieve with the channel 😊. I saw too many modellers struggling with bad or incomplete informations (and I had also my dose of frustrations 😂). No secrets here 😉😉😉
Another thing that I discovered is that by mixing in a small amount of Vaseline (I was new to modelling and had put more on my hands than I needed to) it starts to resemble worked chewing gum and stiffens up noticeably, though it will still bind to models. I have found that this is condusive to when you want to apply a large area of texture as it sticks less to tools and fingers and holds its shape a bit better without the usual need to allow it to cure for a bit before it stops sticking to you more than what you're sculpting. The end result is a bit less grainy looking and smoother, though I found it more difficult to blend joins with itself (for example when wrapping material around an armature, though at that point to get good results you're either an amazing sculptor already or the model is large enough that you might be better off using a different material to save on cost and/or create the texture using alternative means.
Thanks for the tips! I 3D print my minis but I think that I can save some of my failed prints with these techniques, and actually fix support scars instead of smoothing the whole area.
Il bello è che siamo italiani tutti e due e mi tocca di vedere i tuoi tutorial in inglese 🤣🤣🤣. Comunque grazie mille e....bravissimo. Questo sul milliput mi ha aperto un mondo!
Hi Marco, thanks for that! - I've been using Milliput for years but didn't realise that you could do that by adding alcohol - the answer to many little imperfections.
Just tried this technique for the first time, and it worked like a charm. Thanks, Marco! ps - my little kid is now going around the house saying meeleepoot on repeat 🤣
For US customers, Miliput is available at hobby lobby in both yellow/grey and white. It's in the modeling section of the store, down a bit from the airbrush stuff, and usually near the floor.
OMG, I have been using milliput for years, and even have it in my "Apocalypse Grab Bag", and I had no clue about using alcohol to adjust it's consistency!!! I am working on a custom sculpt of a "Spirit Naga" for the BBEG of an AD&D module I am running, it's been giving me problems but this may have saved the project. Thanks!
Got some milliput on a whim cuz I wanted to make some custom-to size eyes for a piece I’m making, I had no clue of that alcohol tip!!! I was wondering how to maybe smooth the eye “ball” I make out once i finished. I also used your alcohol tip for fixing a print I did earlier today (the power went out mid print and I attempted to join 2 pieces) - not only did it work, but the gap I filled was SO smooth even on the first try. THANK YOU!!!
I have to say that I've been very happy with the results of this product. After years of toiling with JB Weld, Poly-Clays, various epoxys and resins I have finally found something that is a sort of hybrid of the things I need. It's not too soft or too hard, it's not too moist or too flaky, crumbly dry and I find the work time (about 3 hours) is just about perfect for most things I use it for. The real beauty is in the last hour/half hour before it sets up firm as I can apply my finishing touches and fine detail work without altering the rest of the piece as often happens with Poly-Clay.
you have just saved me hours of work with Mr Surfacer. This is great stuff but Mr Surfacer shrinks like crazy. I have some gaps along the fuselage to fill on a Spitfire 1/48 and I have just found the answer. Thanks dude
Thanks mate, cool tip. I was filling some seam lines on a 1/16 figure today that were very fine and I struggled to get the Milliput to stick as the gap was so small. Round two tomorrow on the rest of the seams!
This is an excellent tip which I use myself, you can build up layers until you’re completely satisfied with the filling. It’s easy to sand down as well, and unlike green stuff which seems rubbery this is solid. I’ve never used alcohol or meth though I only use water, is there an added advantage to using alcohol.
For very fine lines you can use a thick varnish like Ard Coat. You can also use a mixture of cement glue and an old plastic sprue to create liquid plastic!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Marco, I build a few WWII kits just for fun. I get to expand my skill set and nobody cares if I’m just okay. In my professional life I have to be brilliant all the time. I’m adapting many of your lessons in order to create the costuming and props for my paintings. Thanks for sharing your expertise
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
I just saw your video 4 years after its release but it still is a fantastic help for anyone into miniatures and 3d prints. Thanks so much for these great tips!
😁😊😁😘😘😘
I'd never heard of using alcohol to "thin down" milliput before. That's such a cool idea!
I was going to say that the best part of the video is the ISO/Meths trick. But actually the best part of this video is your accent. It's awesome.
Dude, I've been building models for 20yrs, and I've never seen this before, awesome vid and a great tip!!!!!
😁😁😁Thanks!!! I'm really happy to be useful sharing these tricks 😊
Same here!
Ditto! 50 years here! You taught an old dog a new and hugely helpful trick! Doing my first metal figure and the seams are kicking my ass. No longer! Ha!
I've been using Milliput for over twenty years and I never knew you could do that. Brilliant tip
Here is another tip for you all that I use often. You can mix your milliput 50/50 with childrens plasticene to make a more flexible putty when it hardens. This greatly reduces costs when sculpting many figures. I use this mix to bulk up my wire skeletons before doing the sculpting proper.
Nice! 😁 Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Is it still waterpoof this way? I would love to use it as color pigment to fix our pink tub from 1960s.
like playdo will do?
@@emanuelparedes9187 never tried it
@@feltingme i have no idea. mini figures are painted and sealed
THANKS HEAPS MATE! SO USEFUL!
My local store was out of liquid green stuff and I needed to get heaps of gaps filled so grabbed a box
That tips has been perfect!
You've taught me so much! Thank you. I'm a reseller and because of you I've been able to repair chipped and cracked ceramic. I even fixed a canister that had a hole in it that was textured. You couldn't even tell there was a repair.
i use milliput to fix everything ! its incredible stuff !! ive even used it to repair a motorcycle exhaust pipe !!! fixed it good !!
Such a stunning secret Marco!
Probably the most help I've gotten for sculpting, it's exactly what I'd hoped liquid greenstuff would be but never was.
Stopped using milliput years ago because there were other options without the chalkiness. This option removes that issue, gives infinite adjustment and the ability to add particles to a "cream" for rust and surface texture effects. Superb for adding raised damage effects on bullet/shell hits, building up noses and cheekbones for restoring poorly cast facial details. With my first mix I added bigger pects and six pack abs to a unit of feral orcs, fixed the hair texture on two models as a proof of technique, added bullet hits and rusted up a trio of gaslands cars and a tanker, painted it onto a wire armature I'd made for wings for an android sculpt project, pasted it onto an archway to make the stonework relief and add some runes for OSL, added bark and roots to two creepy twisted trees made of wire, filled some really disgusting gaps on some wolves I bought years ago, turned a tub of random beads into clusters of alien eggs some creepy hanging egg sacks and with the last of the mix textured a handful of bases.
Next time I'll mix less...
Next job add distinguishing features and detail to my mass of Deep Madness dupe sculpts that I reposed with hot water and then add damage and details to my collection of scifi doors.
I can finally put a new arm/hand/spell on that ridiculous medusa from black rose wars
Filling cream and detail paste from Milliput - who'd have guessed?
Plus I do love the smell of isopropyl, I was a lab chemist years ago, exiled to the solvent lab a couple of days a week, now if only you could find a hobby excuse for using diethyl ether...
Wonder what it does to magisculp?
Great work Marco, just like with your oil paint washes, you're out there experimenting and developing practical techniques for us and then demonstrating them clearly. Great inspiration but more then that it's practical help.
😍😍😍 Thanks a million buddy!!! I love your enthusiasm 😉😁😉
I've been struggeling with my Tyranids all night yesterday to fill the gaps and didnt even get through one large model in 2 hours. So I went out and looked for videos. So glad I found this. Will be trying it tonight :-)
Just watched this, can't believe I missed this video before. Great tip and one I wish I had known twenty years ago
It's called Milliput Juice. Back in the days of metal-miniatures it was used to smooth out the rather rough surfaces.
Milliput ist great because it reacts different to water than Greenstuff. Milliput tends to get kinda creamy.
Thanks for the video. Good reminder that Milliput is perfect tool for filling those little gap.
Great tip will be using it on my necron warriors. Goodbye to those terrible gaps on their shoulders! Thanks for probably the most useful sculpt tip in 20 years
😊😊😊😊 Super happy to help! Yep you can make them totally disappear!!!😉
I'm finally gonna give this a try today, I'm excited! Thanks for the tip broski
😁😍😁 Thanks to you man! Keep me updated on the results!!!
Now THAT is a pro tip! Straight to the workbench.
😁
Okay. Saw this a few months ago and it has been invaluable. It's a great video! BUT one thing that is worth adding is that the exact same method is amazing for getting a smooth surface for areas that you have sculpted.
So, if you have a rough area with a few errant tool marks - don't panic, do your best. Then let it dry and essentially give it a wash using the exact same metho posed. And much like a glaze or wash, it will run into the various cracks and divets that are on the model, making a nice smooth area.
I may or may not have first tried this whilst trying to get a witch elf bum looking smooth....
@WinterXL reposing it into a riding position. Wanted my warlocks to match the rest of the army, and have a unit or two of allied dark riders to accompany them. 😊
I have to admit. I have used Milliput , green stuff you name it. Seen tons of videos about Milliput and no one and i mean NO ONE has taught me anything besides you with the alcohol trick. that is pure genius!
😁😁😁 lol, at the end it was really a well kept secret!!! It's a pleasure to share 😊
Incredible. I can't believe I haven't seen this trick before. I'm so glad I went trudging through your older videos and found this.
I'll have to try it first, but if it works as well as it seems this is a fantastic tip.
This is a great tip! I've used Milliput a lot for gap filling, but I've never thought of this - thank you!
ive been using milliput for years and youve just perfected my sculpting game with this trick i am eternally grateful yer a god thanks
Coming back to this video months later to refresh, going to use your technique with the IPA today for the first time. Thanks!
thanks! my milliput got crumbly I guess all the stores have old stock around here... and a few drops of iso really made it so much more usable.
Something else about miliput that I love, is that watered down (with alcohols or water) is that it fills in print lines from 3D prints too. Makes the parts look like they were plastic-injection molded!
WOW ive been using miliput for years and this is the first time im.hesring of this technique! Its exactly what i needed thank you so much
I've used Milliput countless times, I had no idea that you could use it as a filler paste!
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Jas.
Really happy to help! 😁
No secrets here 😉😉😉
Agreed! I started using it because my dad used it...but never had a clue you could do this! GAME CHANGER!
Indeed, have used this product on several projects. Works great
Thank you so much for this. I've just started using Milliput and the tip with using meths is brilliant - that is going to be really useful.
Mixing milliput and alcohol is amazing, I'm going to use that so much. Thanks for the tip.
That’s amazing. I’ll be trying this on my dozens of mk vi shoulder pads
Been using Milliput for years and never knew about thinning it with alcohol! Many thanks for a great tip! :)
Fantastic advice - will use on my plastic projects. Thanks
Brilliant tip! I've been puzzling over this for days. Isopropyl all the way now. Thanks so much. Subscribed.🙏
Thanks and welcome on board!!! This video is one of my oldest, but the information still holds up 😊
@MarcoFrisoniNJM And that's what matters. Knowledge is power and all that. I'll look through your vids.🙏👍
Well this saved me a headache. Thank you so much for the tip bro!
Brilliant tips...My Milliput now has more uses...Thank you...from UK
Superb tip - truly a game changer for me! 🎉 Thank you for sharing! 🙏
In all my years crafting and modeling, I've never heard of this trick before, this is a game changer...
I tried this 5 mins ago, is a game changer for me!
This video has changed my (gap filling) life! Huge thumbs up!
😍😁😍😁😍😁😍😁😍😁😍
I'm blown away with using isopropyl and milliput! I just received a metal miniature that had a crack in the caped area. Never seen anything like that before. This method made for a quick fix and it worked great! I love learning something new and getting to apply it. Great tip and instruction, Marco. Big fan!
Great tip for making a liquid milliput! Thanks for sharing.
I've never heard of this before! I knew about using isopropyl on polymer clay like Sculpy but didn't even think that it would work with Miliput too. I prefer Miliput for it's cost and versatility and now that value has just be multiplied. Thanks for the techniques share.
Been in the hobby for decades. This trick is awesome 👌👏
Bella,,,,,fantastic,,simple quick and easy to follow,,thankyou for sharing my friend
Amazing. I will try this today! Thank you so much for sharing.
That is so useful I am slightly stunned I havent seen it before. You sir are a genius.
Its a handy thing to use if you want to alter your miniatures, I used it for my Chaos army giving them capes and hoods, also its great to use as a mold, i made a million tiny warhammer skulls out of this. Brilliant stuff.
you play Khorne chaos army dont you.
I am familiar with this trick using BeesPutty polymer clay, but I did not know it worked with Milliput. I am quite excited to try this out!
I discovered the iso trick with solvent based epoxy putty too, works a charm, especially smoothing out 3D prints
New subscriber here. I have watched many videos on milliput and you are right no one knows This trick. Most videos show them thinning it down with water which in my experience takes forever to get the consistency you need and makes a huge mess. When it is thinned with water, it also seems to lose adhesion to the surface when dried. Thank you so much now that I know this I can fill gaps and fix imperfections with ease. Thank you for your videos and keep up the good work!
Thanks a million!!!😍 This is definitely what I hoped to achieve with the channel 😊. I saw too many modellers struggling with bad or incomplete informations (and I had also my dose of frustrations 😂). No secrets here 😉😉😉
Best tip ever to someone just starting to use milliput thank you so much you saved me hours of frustration
Another thing that I discovered is that by mixing in a small amount of Vaseline (I was new to modelling and had put more on my hands than I needed to) it starts to resemble worked chewing gum and stiffens up noticeably, though it will still bind to models.
I have found that this is condusive to when you want to apply a large area of texture as it sticks less to tools and fingers and holds its shape a bit better without the usual need to allow it to cure for a bit before it stops sticking to you more than what you're sculpting.
The end result is a bit less grainy looking and smoother, though I found it more difficult to blend joins with itself (for example when wrapping material around an armature, though at that point to get good results you're either an amazing sculptor already or the model is large enough that you might be better off using a different material to save on cost and/or create the texture using alternative means.
Si vede l'impegno che ci metti, complimenti per parlare in tutti i video in inglese. Continua così grande
Dude, I have three armies to gap fill, the time I'm gonna save after watching this 8min video... almost brings tears to my eyes ! Thanks a lot
This is my favorite video so far. Really useful it has been one of my biggest pains, to fix gaps and imperfections. Thanks!!
Amazing tip this week... never would have thought miliputty could be used in this way.
Thanks!!! 😊 And really, in my experience no other putty can match the quality of its results in finishing a model
You're an absolute genius and your videos make me excited to work on all my projects.
You come up with the best tricks. Thanks for another one I will use at least once a week.
Thanks for the tips! I 3D print my minis but I think that I can save some of my failed prints with these techniques, and actually fix support scars instead of smoothing the whole area.
Il bello è che siamo italiani tutti e due e mi tocca di vedere i tuoi tutorial in inglese 🤣🤣🤣. Comunque grazie mille e....bravissimo. Questo sul milliput mi ha aperto un mondo!
Hi Marco, thanks for that! - I've been using Milliput for years but didn't realise that you could do that by adding alcohol - the answer to many little imperfections.
Grandissimo, grazie mille, veramente delle belle dritte. Complimenti!
😁😊😁😘
Duuuuuuuude….!! Epic tips 🤯 thank you!!
This is awesome! Thanks!
Just tried this technique for the first time, and it worked like a charm. Thanks, Marco!
ps - my little kid is now going around the house saying meeleepoot on repeat 🤣
Fantastic thanks so much for sharing this with us 🎉
Good tip right here I had no idea I could dissolve it so much
For US customers, Miliput is available at hobby lobby in both yellow/grey and white. It's in the modeling section of the store, down a bit from the airbrush stuff, and usually near the floor.
Thanks.
This is awesome!!! I just got my mojo back! Time to dive into the drawer of shame! 🙂
Awesome tip thanks. I bought some miliput about 25 years ago and never really had success with. I’ll give it another go now.
😊 It's a pleasure! You'll not regret it 😉
Great! Thank you loads x
great video, thank you!!!Marco your videos have helped me a lot. You are the best.
Amazing tip mate. Grazie mile!
Thank you for this advice!! You now have a new subscriber!! :)
Thank you for your guidance . This is a great help.
Amazing... After trying many different puttys your trick seems the easiest... Will try for sure
Holy crap! That was brilliant. This would have saved me so much work. 😲😮
😊😊😊 I'm super glad to share and help 😉
You are a star Marco! Thank you so much man; great stuff. Take care, and all the best!
Mate, you’ve nailed this video. I never used a thinner like alcohols. Must give this a try
Thanks! 😊😊😊
OMG, I have been using milliput for years, and even have it in my "Apocalypse Grab Bag", and I had no clue about using alcohol to adjust it's consistency!!!
I am working on a custom sculpt of a "Spirit Naga" for the BBEG of an AD&D module I am running, it's been giving me problems but this may have saved the project.
Thanks!
Oh, I need to try this right away. Thanks for the tip!
Got some milliput on a whim cuz I wanted to make some custom-to size eyes for a piece I’m making, I had no clue of that alcohol tip!!! I was wondering how to maybe smooth the eye “ball” I make out once i finished.
I also used your alcohol tip for fixing a print I did earlier today (the power went out mid print and I attempted to join 2 pieces) - not only did it work, but the gap I filled was SO smooth even on the first try. THANK YOU!!!
Wow going to try it
I have to say that I've been very happy with the results of this product. After years of toiling with JB Weld, Poly-Clays, various epoxys and resins I have finally found something that is a sort of hybrid of the things I need. It's not too soft or too hard, it's not too moist or too flaky, crumbly dry and I find the work time (about 3 hours) is just about perfect for most things I use it for. The real beauty is in the last hour/half hour before it sets up firm as I can apply my finishing touches and fine detail work without altering the rest of the piece as often happens with Poly-Clay.
Do you think his isopropyl alchool trick works with other epoxies?
You're amazing! I had some pottery to fix and this worked like a charm!
I now have an alternative to GW's greenstuff, thanks! Awesome video!
Thanks! Greenstuff is good for proper sculpting thanks to its firm consistency but Milliput is much easier to use and versatile for all the rest!
Fantastic! Time to replace my greenstuff. I always felt like the rubbery texture after drying was weird
Yeah I think it's its main downside; it's super good for sculpting but if you need to finish or perfect a surface Milliput is definitely better
Marco you are a wizard!! BUT why did I not watch this before I started my Tyranid army!!!!!
you have just saved me hours of work with Mr Surfacer. This is great stuff but Mr Surfacer shrinks like crazy.
I have some gaps along the fuselage to fill on a Spitfire 1/48 and I have just found the answer. Thanks dude
Thanks mate, cool tip. I was filling some seam lines on a 1/16 figure today that were very fine and I struggled to get the Milliput to stick as the gap was so small. Round two tomorrow on the rest of the seams!
Excellent video! Thanks!
Thanks marco I'll definately be trying that.
Great tips bud, thank you. Subscribed!
Thanks to you man! Welcome to the Channel 😊😁😊
THAT WAS a GREAT and useful tips!
This is an excellent tip which I use myself, you can build up layers until you’re completely satisfied with the filling. It’s easy to sand down as well, and unlike green stuff which seems rubbery this is solid.
I’ve never used alcohol or meth though I only use water, is there an added advantage to using alcohol.
Nice! Using alcohol the suspension is finer and more creamy, uniform and stable. It also dries quickly than with water
MarcoFrisoniNJM
thank you, I will try alcohol next time.
Carry on the good work you’re much appreciated.
For very fine lines you can use a thick varnish like Ard Coat. You can also use a mixture of cement glue and an old plastic sprue to create liquid plastic!
Sure! But with this technique you have a super mega iper fine control on every part of the process (consistency, time, application...)
Game changer!
This video just saved me. Thanks!
You are super welcome! 😁😊😁
Absolutely amazing tip! Thank you!
Bingo! Thank you!
😁😊😁
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Marco, I build a few WWII kits just for fun. I get to expand my skill set and nobody cares if I’m just okay. In my professional life I have to be brilliant all the time. I’m adapting many of your lessons in order to create the costuming and props for my paintings. Thanks for sharing your expertise