Can confirm. I do the same, and it works faaaaar better. Also the amount of putty you put in makes or breaks the result. Also pressure. You can try using rubber bands or clamps to keep pressure on the blue stuff. But both the right amount used in both cases is definately a learning curve.
Yes to everything here, i do the same on a small lego sheet, make a frame i even layed the smooth lego parts on it so it doesnt get those lego tabs/bumps in my Oyumaru/blue stuff molds.
From what I remember watching tutorials with this stuff, the secret to 2 stuff molds is to use toothpicks to provide channels for the extra material to go out of when you squish the two halves together
I second this. I've been using bluestuff for over a year now and have replicated a squad of Primaris marines amongst loads of other things. Channels out of pipe/rods that you remove before the actual casting makes all the difference and avoids like 90% of all flash.
50 50 miliput greenstuff mix, and clean the excess off the mould before pressing together. Cast in a small lego box for no mould expansion when casting the original piece.
What I've done is put down a few layers of watered down liquid green stuff to capture the detail, then put down the solid green stuff to block it out. It's flexible enough, versatile enough, and it captures great detail
I'm discovering sculpey melting bases and other plastic!! Any styrene cups and knock off Lego!! Stains minis as well.. likely melting in. Shocking discovery
Yes! I made some stop motion puppets with sculpey and put plastic beads in their heads as eyes. A few weeks later I found their heads had split open and they had plastic tears running down their horrific faces. @@hansjohannsen6722
From the small amount I know about UV resin I think your problems with it's curing might have come from the blue stuff mold's blue color. The color and opacity of the mold can affect how evenly and easily the UV light reaches the resin. This can cause some areas to cure unevenly or take forever to cure if the mold is absorbing or blocking a significant amount of UV light.
this is likely correct cause the UV flashlights that are sold arent true UV and dip a bit into the blue usually 405nm for curing resins and UV is everything lower than 400nm so the blue stuff probably likes the blue light or something im no scientist wheres brent
Resin 3d printers use photo resin but cure in layers that are fractions of mm. I would suggest trying adding a little, cure, repeat. This way the entire thing would be cured throughout
@@Allan_Lugia I used "Oyumaru" with UV resin and it worked well. Just the smell was cancer to me and a few bubbles from the reaction being too fast. In the end i decided transparent silicone moulds may be best with UV resin because the moulds were more precise and less likely to be deformed.
A trick that might apply to this is to stick the resin/mold into a clear or metal bowl filled with water after the initial curing. I use a silver pet dish (super cheap) for the reflective properties and it's helped in some cases where the resin didn't want to harden.
if you want to cast something like the wings, get some casting silicone. make a 2 piece mold, and measure out how much casting material you'll need. with sufficient pressure on both sides of the mold, you'll only have to do minor cleanup.
yeah thats what i intend to do on larget flatter pieces like the tracks sides on a leman russ. smaller parts can be done this way but for large flat ones the bluestuff will not work
Make a small mold case for the blue stuff before pressing the part in. I use plastic card or popsicle sticks. This helps with keeping a consistent thickness beneath the part as well as controlling the amount of blue stuff you use. A 2 part mold needs registration marks for the 2 halves to meet together the same way each time.
yep, i do the same, but for the casing i use legos. also i use something flat and sturdy, like more legos, to pres the second part of the mold more even.
Couple things: 1) No free form molds - either build a frame or use dowels, but you need a single piece mold that you can cut in half so that the alignment is maintained. 2) MOLD RELEASE AGENT - vaseline or something similar that won't interact with your part medium. 3) Liquids are easier that solids; solid material will frequently require relief cuts/holes in the mold for air to escape to avoid bubbles and imperfections, but for liquids like resin you may have to hit it with a heat gun to eliminate bubbles. In order to best reproduce GW parts, you would really need to make a mold of the whole sprue and use a spin-down style mold impregnation; all the hard stuff is done for you that way. Die making is a pretty insane art of its own.
One great medium for making recasts is your old sprues..simply soak in acetone and once soft use them,they take a while to set but once they do they work a treat
@@ThatGuy-eu2vt Lol, I don't actually have any friends that play Warhammer. Hell, I haven't played tabletop since I was like 13. Sold all my minis when I was 17 so i had money to buy booze for I party so I could go and fail to get laid. I've been watching 40k/crafting videos for years now though, keep getting tempted to get back into it but the cost is absurd. So yeah, that was just a dumb joke. But I DID used to use a lot of sprues as the framework for terrain I was making back in the day.
@@PumpkinHoard yeah i get what you're saying (mostly because im 17 atm) and only 1 of my friends Still play. But if you want to get into The hobby again you should buy 2nd hand its cheap as dirt and you can get an entire army / project to work on.
@@ThatGuy-eu2vt I get that, but tbh I have no interest in buying second hand unless everything is still unpainted and on the sprue. I play a lot of Warhammer video games, got all the DoW games/addons but 3 as well as TWW1+2 plus most of the dlc. But as for tabletop.... I don't really have any interest in the game itself. But building minis, converting painting, crafting etc... That appeals to me. I'd rather start from scratch than try and make something out of someone elses botched attempts. Don't want to deal with stripping paint, broken minis or any of the multitude problems you deal with second hand. That being said, I have seen job lots for bits on ebay that would be worth buying. And a 3D printer IS within my price range, especially when you compare it to the long term cost of buying from GW.
I found that type of molding putty is great for 1 sided stuff like shields or duplicating resin bases. Making a good 2 sided mold requires a lot more practice. I would highly suggest using some beads or something around the part to make indents that are easy to use to allign both halves of the mold. I t's still hard to get good results because the putty is still flexible when cooled down. So when you push your halves together it deforms the inprint...
That's why you use a mold case. The plastic cap to a bottle works pretty well, or you can make one, that will hold the bottom half of the mold stable while you press them together. Also make sure you have made registration marks in the bottom half before molding the top half so that it goes on in the correct orientation and stays there. I copied some horns from Rotigus and they came out pretty good on my first try. It is better for more organic shapes than like armor or thjngs that need to be clean and exact.
Referred to this channel by a friend. I liked your realistic expectations, given recasting would require a lot of trial and error/experience for everyone in the beginning. Just sets a good standard for beginners and doesn't leave us feeling like we're going to be attempting the impossible.
Wear gloves when using the UV light, preferably with long sleeves and any exposed skin covered. That's a cancer flashlight, which is why UV curing is usually done in an enclosure. Please be safe!
Depends heavily on the UV light. Many of these UV curing devices operate on the high end of the UVA band, at around 395-405nm, which is actually in the visible light range and not that harmful, particularly at the levels in most flashlights. The biggest danger is actually looking into the flashlight with it on, because its so low on the spectrum you can't see it well, and thus can damage your eyes because they don't see it as bright and know to blink.
As opposed to the gigantic ball of unchecked nuclear fusion in the sky overhead. You know they're from australia right? Them walking to the car on a sunny day is probably more harmful than a small UV flashlight.
Those little hand-held UV lights use LEDs that emit in the UV-A range at very low intensities and pose almost no harm (long term exposure can still cause problems) when used occasionally like the typical hobbyist would. You get more exposure from 10 minutes in the summer sun than you would get from a day using one of those little handheld UV lights, just don't go staring directly into the LEDs. If you are curing resin on a regular and daily basis then definitely go for an enclosure.
ahaha! for the light??? no. wear gloves because resin is some really bad stuff. you can develop an allergy to it over time if you get enough exposure. Will probably give you cancer about 1000x faster than uv light as well!
also surprise, everyone for the 70's who had those blacklight posters aren't dead right now! haha its just so funny to be scared of UV light as the one guy pointed out... how bout the giant ball of unchecked nuclear energy in the sky? haha
No believe it or not GW don’t mind you recasting or 3d printing parts. the only restriction is that you cannot use them in official tournaments. Here is a video that explains everything but I have added the time stamp for the legality of 3d printing and recasting. ruclips.net/video/djumZlYSJjE/видео.html
@@ravan9929 I seem to remember someone getting a cease order from GW for posting a video about casting with blue stuff. Also, I tried watching that video before and found its format obnoxious.
@@ravan9929 No believe it or not Gw fucking hate recasters, 3d printers and 3rd party parts, they got their ass handed to them in cort after they tried to sue a small 3rd party models producer and has ever since been really fucking strict with copyright and intellectual property.
I use sculpting tools to push epoxy into the mold details then bulk out the main body of the piece. I like apoxie sculpt because you can use isopropyl alcohol to brush away the excess flash or to thin it significantly before putting the two halves of the mold together
For alignment, have you tried making a few dent in the first mold part, so when you make the second piece it would form some sort of tongue and groove fit
I would love to see you making things for the minis to use. I know this is more diorama then table top game, but little fires with pots of soup, tents for sleeping, storing stuff, planning your battle, for cooking or as a lazarette tent would be great. And for the battle itself: chariots!
I've dabbled with recasting. I've found success with two part silicon molds. I use a lego box frame and press an even layer of plasticine clay into it. I then press the model on it's sprue or custom venting into the clay up to the part's mold line, and poke keying holes in the corners and voids. I mix up silicon and pour from a height in one corner of the mold box. Once it has set, I disassemble, leaving the model in the silicon, but cleaning all the clay off. Then you just flip it over, rebuild the box, dust the silicon with very small amount of talcum powder, the pour another batch of silicon over it to make the other half. Important note, you will think that you screwed up and didn't put enough talc and the mold fully bonded. Which yes that might be the case, but also even if you did everything right, the mold will still be challenging to separate. Your forearms will be burning by the time you get your sprue out. If you do it often enough, you'll start to look like a gorilla, it's good fun.
its amazing for wall pieces or taking reliefs off sector mechanicus to build buildings, for really detailed stuff use gsw acrylic resin to pour into your moulds (:
You could always warm the blue stuff up with a headgun, that way you can keep it softer for longer and you don't get water disturbing the mold. Maybe even make two way molds easier by having the upper mold "melt" ontop and get into crevices.
Nope that would just result in a stuck together single block of plastic if you heated the top while it was on the other half of the mold. Even if your top half plastic is too hot, it will reheat the bottom half and stick together.
@@teagancombest6049 I remember making silicone molds way way back, and to avoid the second part sticking to the 1st one the suggestion was always to use vaseline. I think it should work the same with blue stuff
I've recently discovered bluestuff & have been making some lounges & bucket seats for boats, trucks & cars in 1/35 using fibreglass resin. They come out with a cloth like texture. I'm happy with the results.
Very interesting, I've experimented with blue stuff to repair broken/missing ork bows with Sprue Goo and had excellent results, I now have usable models again 😆😆😆
It's pretty good with a single sided mould, two part moulds are tricky, imho. But it's awesome for recasting small details, imho. Especially handy in kitbashing.
For quick casts in Bleu stuff I use cheap polyester car body filler ( in press mold work) Or I use PU resin for pouring in a mold. Both fast solutions.
Back in the day I used a mould system that allowed me to reproduce figures. It used a clay like heavy sand and two wood frames into which the bottom was filled, the model pressed in along with some match sticks and then the top half filled. The two halves were then separated and the original taken out. The halves were then joined together, there were dowels that ensured a match to both halves, and once joined the match sticks were pulled out leaving a vent and pouring spout. It then heated pewter in a crusible, (Thank god for gas) skimmed the dross and poured the pewter into the mould. Give it ten for cooling and lift the top half off. The positioning dowels forced you to lift vertically so the pewter sprue did not wreck the mould. Usually the cast would require some filing and voila I got a new gun or horse. The point is, for full shaped casts you need liquid going into a mould. The whole thing is on its way out with 3d printers and if you can't afford one but you have a mate who can, you can get them to print for you for the cost of a beer and the resin.
My suggestion is if you still have some of the shields on the sprues, chop them up so you have an injection cast. then use the blue stuff (like everyone is suggesting in the comments) with a Lego frame. make sure you use 2 half’s and keyframes for alignment with part of the sprue as close to the edge as possible for a resin injection. You want a long set time to keep the temp down (24 to 48hrs) If you feel adventurous you can use melted sprues as you media for injecting but you will have to find the sweet spot of the melting point and be in a well ventilated room.
@@GloriousGrunt you could always do half cast and then glue both parts together. It's not like they don't already know how to put together minis with pieces.
I have tried using a pourable 2 part resin and it worked well for simple push molded (one sided) parts. However when i tried to make a two sided mold (ie push the part into the first blob of blue stuff, let that cool and set and then push another blob of blue stuff to make the other side of the mold) i had to cut a pouring channel into the the cooled down blue stuff. When pouring the resin in, it seemed to go ok but on every test, the resin didn't reach the far end of the mold Plus the resin had a tendency to spill out the sides. A friend suggested that an air bubble was forming in the mold stopping the resin from filling the mold properly so i cut in a series of extra channels to help the resin spread throughout the mold but so far this is still not working to produce a decently molded part. This is odd because i have some experience in making RTV rubber molds and casting in both white metal and in resin. Oh well i will havr to keep experimenting and at least the blue stuff is reusable.
Hmm, maybe a hotplate on low with pan of constantly boiling water with a floating small tinfoil pie pan? It might keep the Bluestuff very soft (hmm, maybe even liquefied - bad if it never reset) while you make your mold. You could always go the old school route and just run with liquid latex reinforced with cheesecloth or fiberglass. Not reusable but for the price difference vs material purchased . . .
I do this, it works, it won't get too hot and it will always go back to solid once it cools. It's way better than trying to rush with hot water in a dish that will cool in 5 minutes
I was able to use blue stuff and Oatey Fix-It Stick to get all 3 Mega-Gargants from a single GW kit. Did the same thing with the Maggoth Lord kit and a Beast of Nurgle kit. Love the stuff.
The UV resin might be having a harder time to cure because the blue stuff is blue and not totally clear. UV resin needs clear molds so you can shine light through all sides. The blue stuff is not totally opaque though so you might be able to flip it over and shine light through the bottom of the mold, though it might be slower. You can also get more powerful UV lamps than the little flashlights (like lamps for gel nails) and that might help as well. I've never used it, but the blue stuff looks exactly like Oyumaru (from Japan).
I've been thinking about getting some so i can make tau torsos and i think they'd be perfect for this, they have a small amount of details and are basically balls. Thanks Dave, legend!
Is the bottom of the torso flat like guard torsos? if so you might be able to make a 1-part mold with the top open. Just push green-stuff in or liquid resin and scrape off the top. You could also put a toothpick in while they set and then pull them out like popsicles lol.
I use a small heat gun to heat up the blue stuff. Then cover what I'm moulding. I then let it cool sometimes I will pop in the fridge especially if I'm making a two-part mould. It will not stick to cold blue stuff. Sometimes I will use thermoplastic pellets to create a stiff shell. I avoid casting materials that generate heat as it will soften the blue stuff and make it warp or worse stick to the material you cast.
I'm planning on using this material to make some molds of a gundam model kit leg, i just need to get some more as my brother borrowed my thing a year ago and i still haven't gotten it back
Great info for someone getting in but id recommend watching some more vids because there is a lot of depth that can be went into to perfect the usage of this mold making material :) I had some prior experience with two sided silicone molds before trying bluestuff/oyumaru that really helped me get good results for two sided stuff. Using legos for a box and a masher to get good even contact against the whole part, making the first side using clay with the bit embedded(like 2 side silicone mold making) and adding keying/registration so the two sides will locate properly against each other. A side effect of using the legos is that the molds get right angles and are a lot easier to clamp together, ive used green stuff to recreate bits but also pourable 2 part resin. Replicated a bunch of bitz for a friend of mine so he could complete both options in a necron sniper/whatever-the-other-option-is-kit. Last one sided bit i did was the front of a Space Marine Terminator torso that had gone missing, had another one so whipping up another was pretty quick and easy, i did however from experience know that one sometimes does not get it perfect on the first go so i actually did three molds and three green stuff pressing, picking the best result to use.
I've done it with Milliput, and mixed it a load with water to 'paint' into the mould for the fine detail. When that's set you can add in regular Milliput mix to fill out the mold. Works well for stuff like head recasts, but I'd never try getting something like those wings from it.
For every 10 press molds I attempt I get perhaps 1 or 2 that are worth working with. If it has thin bits, strands, ropes, chains, anything that has multiple layers you can't get around I don't even bother unless I remove those bits, press mold the main torso or whatever and the bits, then replace the odd bits. The right amount of putty and a sold fit mold with possibly some weight on the top to result in the least amount of mold line and flash is a must. I would tell people to practice to the point you fill the mold flush to where it isn't too much but not too little and don't be discouraged if you end up wasting half to 3/4ths of your first putty mix kit.
I know someone who made a load of cadian legs and torsos. They are real simple parts but they are the only thing you don't get duplicates of in a box of guardsmen. He got this and was able to essentially make extra squads and also duplicate some of the simple command squad parts (like the officer's trenchcoat legs, bolt pistol, meltagun etc) he managed to make all the infantry needed for a infantry heavy 1000pt guard army from a infantry squad, command squad and heavy weapons squad. He got the parts to add a few special weapons squads, extra heavy weapons teams, sniper squads, a extra command squad and 2 extra infantry squads. He did have to duplicate some lasguns too, but again they are simple parts. Certainly worth the money for him. Oh he used some epoxy from a DIY store, but i'm not sure which brand. I thought about using this ever since he did it.
I've been wanting to use bluestuff to make extra combi-bolter bits so I can find a use for all those add-ons you get for the ONE COMBI-BOLTER YOU GET IN THE TACTICAL MARINE BOX!!!!! Seriously, you get the bits for combi-grav to combi-flamer yet only one combi bolter bit to make one. I've realized you need extra bits from devastators to really give your marines options. One thing I'm sad about that recasting won't fix is that you can't really dual wield melee weapons.
Ooo the uv resin in a mould would be a really cool effect for scepters and stuff like that. Like you cast it in resin, then paint over the solid bits and leave just a clear piece where the gem is
I have it too and use it mainly to duplicate some bases and basing material from Age of sigmar bases set (40 and 65mm bases). That's the limit at which I'm able to use blue stuff and what I need it for in the first place anyway. In that regards it's just fantastic and makes putties and airdrying clay hold its details pretty well making the bases of my Stormcasts look really nice :)
Someone may have mentioned it already but plaster requires 2 parts Plaster of Paris, 2 parts Water & 1 part wood glue. one can also add acrylic paint to the mix. I haven't seen a video yet on it, however. Since glue is glue, maybe try it on a mold that hasn't turned out very well. Probably need to use a release agent for this medium. But I agree Vaz is a better option, less complicated & no mess. Take care /Rosemary
It's an interesting option to have on hand for when cheap or fast are more important than fine details. I think I'll still look into silicone rubber instead of thermoplastic, but thanks for showing your results.
Things I've blue stuffed: Daemon Prince legs and back Topknots for White Scars (from Chaos Marines, orks and Daemonettes) Chaos rhino decorative bits (especially Doom Siren looking bit for Noise Marines) Chapter symbols for pauldrons
Been using this stuff for a couple years now, great for older miniatures with lower amounts of detail (squats!), have found Milliput combined with paperclips for added support really get a good end result as it's set in 6 hours or less and there's no shrinkage. Just gotta really push the epoxy into all the little details (sculpting tools at the ready!) and to not use too much of it when doing a two part mold otherwise things can really warp. Also use vaseline to keep new molds sticking together and Lego blocks to make frames to control how big/tall the mold should be.
Paint up a couple shields and mix them in a unit and see if they can be picked out? Thanks though! I al so picked some up but have not really tried using it yet. Cheers!
I found out that keeping the boiled water in a thermal flask (while you aren't using it / to top up your water container with blue stuff) is really great idea, other wise you might need to run your kettle often, as as soon as the water temp drop, it becomes a bit more difficult to shape the stuff.
While plasmos video is really good I’ve had limited success making full bits. I’ve found initially I got quite a lot of squeeze out and even with putting less in I got a lot of slightly misaligned bits. Definitely something to practice on, so don’t expect amazing results first try. For press molds blue stuff is great, I’ve managed some nice pieces using greenstuff, milliput and even gently coaxing unbaked sculpey out of the molds.
If they're misaligned you need more registration marks. 3 is the minimum but more is better. Also completely cool your first half before adding the top of the mold. I like to put mine in the fridge first so it's really cold and doesn't get heated up by the top half and stick together.
@@teagancombest6049 Thanks for the tips. I feel like I’ve been doing that and still get sub optimal results. A fully formed bit but slightly misaligned and chunky mold lines. I have a fairly adequate thunder hammer mold so I may mess with different putties and being as conservative as possible with the putty.
@@Nigelius yeah I mean that's kinda just how press molds work. They're not ideal for everything. I play nurgle so pieces being chunky and sloppy doesn't bother me, in fact it could even be a bonus. I made 2 horns for my converted nurgle Ghorgon from the Rotigus horns and even the owner of my LGS said he couldnt tell they were milliput. So it works for organic shapes and textures. I haven't actually tried doing like armor or something that needs precision.
@@teagancombest6049 Good to hear it’s working out for you. I have been using it more for organic pieces like Wolf heads and paws for my space wolves. Smaller bits that I can sculpt larger areas of fur around. So far I have a cast of Bjorns Wolf pelt which allows me to add heads and paw pelts to other green stuffing and a thunderwolf head cast which may form a substantial piece of pelt.
For my Epoxy moldings i use Epo-putty, JB-weld quick weld (made for plastic pipes, quick set time) and Green Stuff. Depending on the figure im casting the ratio's change but i usually try to do a 1/3 part of each. If not 2/4 of either epo or green stuff, 1/4 of JB Quick weld, and 1/4 of whatever you didn't use for 2/4's. And blue stuff casting is very tricky, those wings you made were so close i would try it again, in frame to fit (lego's are nice) and find a nice weight so when you put your top piece of oyumaru/blue stuff on it has a little weight on top to keep it all in place.
I have some coming in the near future. I’m not deterred by your difficulties in the slightest. I can tell that there’s a learning curve but I’m not looking to replicate fine and spindly details, just maybe special weapons from hard to find/expensive kits like umbral-6’s rifle and I’ll try out to copy the Catachan Colonel’s heads too. I had to pull strings on one and pay more than I wanted to on the other, respectively. Still, I learn from watching, a lot and both videos I think gave me a solid foundation!! Thanks again for the video on the subject!!
The Blue Stuff material is very similar to what DIY athletic mouthguards are made of. Some mouth guards are extremely cheap. If you only need a small amount, or want to try this technique without committing to a large initial purchase, that may be an option.
I use a clear version to make molds. . I brought it back in the 90s and it's still fine. . . I use it for making helmet crest, shield designs etc for my Empire Knights, for my knights of the blazing sun for example I took moulds of the metal grand masters shield, the sun on his helmet and then recreated it over all 25 Knights in the unit. . I have always just use green stuff for the items I create but plaster was good if you are making a large base. . I find plastervonly works on thick items and needs overnight to fully dry. .
The main probelm I found with blue stuff - when you peel them apart to remove the original? It distorts the mould. And as you've discovered - it has no 'overflow' method for excess moulding material.
The blue stuff reminds me of old “boil and bite” mouth guards I used to wear playing sports as a kid. You wouldn’t have much time to mold it either. If it is like that, I used to used a clean sponge to quickly dab the plastic before immediately molding it to my teeth. 🤔
I've used blue stuff for a while.. replicated many figures and parts.. what i've found is, mixing GREEN STUFF and Milliput 1:1 gives the best epoxy material. Dries quicker and stronger, can be quite tough to mix the two.
Yup, stuff gets removeable and rigid enough in just under two hours, but only gets fully cured in 24-48hrs. Premix the blue-wrapped Milliput part with blue part from GS, then premix the yellow with the clear-packed part. This way it's easier to mix together.
I've used blue stuff. It is better for thinner stuff if you're using green stuff as your casting agent. Thicker objects tend to kind of push out the mould and require quite a bit of cleanup. Worked great for duplicating the special legion insignias on rhino and land raider doors that forge world sells so i didn't need to buy a bunch for all my vehicles.
If, like me, you don't have a model shop anywhere near you and you're put off by the cost of the "blue stuff", just get the generic stuff from Amazon or similar, just search for Oyumaru it's the exact same stuff, you heat it up in water, push things in it to make a mold etc.. but it's a lot cheaper and normally it's cheaper for more of it, the only "downside" if you can call it one is that it normally comes in a load of random colours.
the reason why your resin takes forever curing is because of the colour of the blue stuff.. resin cures much faster with clear moulds for some reason. I make jewelry with uv resin all the time and now I only buy clear moulds But I just received it for xmas and I can't wait to try it
this vid is accurate to how it has gone for me with blue stuff. The parts I pulled out today are the best so far but have a lot of flash. I have only used green stuff however and I have no clean-up after.
If you use UV resin with Blue Stuff try to use flashlight for a moment, then turn it off, wait a bit and repeat. otherwise it can melt blue stuff, and it could mix with resin.
My expeirence: Use a lego frame. You can put the 2 part mold better with a frame and for 1 part mold you can press in harder without deforming the mold. For the water use a paper towel. Take out quickly wrap it in one for a second and then make the mold you have enough time. For 2 part mold cut air wents where the excess milliput can go so no extra 1-2 millimeter layer will be between the 2 half. Fill the milliput into the halves from one corner and spread it all over the mold so there will be no air bubbles. Then push together both halves (with air went to escape the excess)
I tried this myself using epo-putty, as seen on the plasmo video. That putty is so worth it. This is an easy method for making small replacement pieces for models/figures. Thanks for the video! This method isn't as popular as it should be. -John
I ran into the same problem with flash. I havent tried it yet, I usually just cut off the flash the best I can and roll with it, but if I was going to produce a bunch of something, I would weigh the epoxy/milliput and figure out the exact amount I needed. Im getting better at eye balling it, but sometimes im way off lol.
That's totally what I'm going to do, when I get my own debit card to pay for the stuff with, and get an extra space marine box (preferable devastators since they've got most of the melee weapons needed).
if you put it in boiling water on the stove so the water stays boiling and pull it out you will get a longer working time and it will get crisper detail
Yeah the idea of using hot water in a bowl is a bad one, you need to keep it hot so a double boiler or just sticking it in a pan of water boiling on the stove is ideal
I suggest making a Lego frame to make neat square molds.
Agreed Lego is ideal for this
That's a great idea I'ma have to try this
Any frame at all. Plus talc on the edges of the molds to help releases from the cast.
Can confirm.
I do the same, and it works faaaaar better.
Also the amount of putty you put in makes or breaks the result.
Also pressure.
You can try using rubber bands or clamps to keep pressure on the blue stuff.
But both the right amount used in both cases is definately a learning curve.
Yes to everything here, i do the same on a small lego sheet, make a frame i even layed the smooth lego parts on it so it doesnt get those lego tabs/bumps in my Oyumaru/blue stuff molds.
From what I remember watching tutorials with this stuff, the secret to 2 stuff molds is to use toothpicks to provide channels for the extra material to go out of when you squish the two halves together
I second this. I've been using bluestuff for over a year now and have replicated a squad of Primaris marines amongst loads of other things. Channels out of pipe/rods that you remove before the actual casting makes all the difference and avoids like 90% of all flash.
That's brilliant. But what is the "material"...that can flow out easily?
@@2112res greenstuff is what I have seen used, but really with enough pressure you can probably force anything out the gates
@@thelobsterclause9010 Have you ever seen/heard of vacuum forming in this arena?
@@mikaelpeterson6567 do yoi have link to the video on how to do it
50 50 miliput greenstuff mix, and clean the excess off the mould before pressing together. Cast in a small lego box for no mould expansion when casting the original piece.
this
What I've done is put down a few layers of watered down liquid green stuff to capture the detail, then put down the solid green stuff to block it out. It's flexible enough, versatile enough, and it captures great detail
I was half expecting a Goobertown Hobbies insert with Brent explaining why the plastics stuck together.
Thank you for including the bit with the plastic bag, it's very useful to know that that isn't an option
I’ve used sculpy to make molds of Gundam parts that I’ve lost, and then sculpy again to cast them. It’s worked alright.
I'm discovering sculpey melting bases and other plastic!! Any styrene cups and knock off Lego!! Stains minis as well.. likely melting in. Shocking discovery
Yes! I made some stop motion puppets with sculpey and put plastic beads in their heads as eyes. A few weeks later I found their heads had split open and they had plastic tears running down their horrific faces. @@hansjohannsen6722
Plasmo has got to be my favourite diorama/ WW2 modeller in existence
You should also check out Luke Towan and Night Shift if you haven't already.
@@Adamant_Consternation checked out Night Shift before, but will look into Luke Towan! thanks
Plasmo is God. Period.
@@soundgarden8885 that he is
From the small amount I know about UV resin I think your problems with it's curing might have come from the blue stuff mold's blue color. The color and opacity of the mold can affect how evenly and easily the UV light reaches the resin. This can cause some areas to cure unevenly or take forever to cure if the mold is absorbing or blocking a significant amount of UV light.
this is likely correct cause the UV flashlights that are sold arent true UV and dip a bit into the blue usually 405nm for curing resins and UV is everything lower than 400nm so the blue stuff probably likes the blue light or something im no scientist wheres brent
Resin 3d printers use photo resin but cure in layers that are fractions of mm. I would suggest trying adding a little, cure, repeat. This way the entire thing would be cured throughout
I´ve tried using a 2part bluestuff form shining Uv-light though.. epic fail.. can i get bluestuff? but without the blue?
@@Allan_Lugia I used "Oyumaru" with UV resin and it worked well. Just the smell was cancer to me and a few bubbles from the reaction being too fast. In the end i decided transparent silicone moulds may be best with UV resin because the moulds were more precise and less likely to be deformed.
A trick that might apply to this is to stick the resin/mold into a clear or metal bowl filled with water after the initial curing. I use a silver pet dish (super cheap) for the reflective properties and it's helped in some cases where the resin didn't want to harden.
if you want to cast something like the wings, get some casting silicone. make a 2 piece mold, and measure out how much casting material you'll need. with sufficient pressure on both sides of the mold, you'll only have to do minor cleanup.
yeah thats what i intend to do on larget flatter pieces like the tracks sides on a leman russ. smaller parts can be done this way but for large flat ones the bluestuff will not work
i think to help figure out how much material you need, weigh the piece you're using then get the same weight of material you want to use?
Make a small mold case for the blue stuff before pressing the part in. I use plastic card or popsicle sticks. This helps with keeping a consistent thickness beneath the part as well as controlling the amount of blue stuff you use.
A 2 part mold needs registration marks for the 2 halves to meet together the same way each time.
yep, i do the same, but for the casing i use legos.
also i use something flat and sturdy, like more legos, to pres the second part of the mold more even.
Also make sure your bottom half is completely cooled before making the top half or you will trap your piece in the mold and ruin it.
Hanging out with Dave is probably my favorite segment
Couple things: 1) No free form molds - either build a frame or use dowels, but you need a single piece mold that you can cut in half so that the alignment is maintained. 2) MOLD RELEASE AGENT - vaseline or something similar that won't interact with your part medium. 3) Liquids are easier that solids; solid material will frequently require relief cuts/holes in the mold for air to escape to avoid bubbles and imperfections, but for liquids like resin you may have to hit it with a heat gun to eliminate bubbles.
In order to best reproduce GW parts, you would really need to make a mold of the whole sprue and use a spin-down style mold impregnation; all the hard stuff is done for you that way. Die making is a pretty insane art of its own.
If you don't mind my replying on an 8 month old comment what do you mean by "spin down style mold impregnation"?
One great medium for making recasts is your old sprues..simply soak in acetone and once soft use them,they take a while to set but once they do they work a treat
But then, where will I get the framework for all my Orkish terrain?
@@PumpkinHoard dude ask you're friends if the have any sprues they can give you
@@ThatGuy-eu2vt Lol, I don't actually have any friends that play Warhammer. Hell, I haven't played tabletop since I was like 13. Sold all my minis when I was 17 so i had money to buy booze for I party so I could go and fail to get laid. I've been watching 40k/crafting videos for years now though, keep getting tempted to get back into it but the cost is absurd.
So yeah, that was just a dumb joke. But I DID used to use a lot of sprues as the framework for terrain I was making back in the day.
@@PumpkinHoard yeah i get what you're saying (mostly because im 17 atm) and only 1 of my friends Still play. But if you want to get into The hobby again you should buy 2nd hand its cheap as dirt and you can get an entire army / project to work on.
@@ThatGuy-eu2vt I get that, but tbh I have no interest in buying second hand unless everything is still unpainted and on the sprue. I play a lot of Warhammer video games, got all the DoW games/addons but 3 as well as TWW1+2 plus most of the dlc. But as for tabletop.... I don't really have any interest in the game itself. But building minis, converting painting, crafting etc... That appeals to me. I'd rather start from scratch than try and make something out of someone elses botched attempts. Don't want to deal with stripping paint, broken minis or any of the multitude problems you deal with second hand.
That being said, I have seen job lots for bits on ebay that would be worth buying. And a 3D printer IS within my price range, especially when you compare it to the long term cost of buying from GW.
I found that type of molding putty is great for 1 sided stuff like shields or duplicating resin bases. Making a good 2 sided mold requires a lot more practice.
I would highly suggest using some beads or something around the part to make indents that are easy to use to allign both halves of the mold. I
t's still hard to get good results because the putty is still flexible when cooled down. So when you push your halves together it deforms the inprint...
That's why you use a mold case. The plastic cap to a bottle works pretty well, or you can make one, that will hold the bottom half of the mold stable while you press them together. Also make sure you have made registration marks in the bottom half before molding the top half so that it goes on in the correct orientation and stays there. I copied some horns from Rotigus and they came out pretty good on my first try. It is better for more organic shapes than like armor or thjngs that need to be clean and exact.
Referred to this channel by a friend. I liked your realistic expectations, given recasting would require a lot of trial and error/experience for everyone in the beginning.
Just sets a good standard for beginners and doesn't leave us feeling like we're going to be attempting the impossible.
Wear gloves when using the UV light, preferably with long sleeves and any exposed skin covered. That's a cancer flashlight, which is why UV curing is usually done in an enclosure.
Please be safe!
Depends heavily on the UV light. Many of these UV curing devices operate on the high end of the UVA band, at around 395-405nm, which is actually in the visible light range and not that harmful, particularly at the levels in most flashlights. The biggest danger is actually looking into the flashlight with it on, because its so low on the spectrum you can't see it well, and thus can damage your eyes because they don't see it as bright and know to blink.
As opposed to the gigantic ball of unchecked nuclear fusion in the sky overhead. You know they're from australia right?
Them walking to the car on a sunny day is probably more harmful than a small UV flashlight.
Those little hand-held UV lights use LEDs that emit in the UV-A range at very low intensities and pose almost no harm (long term exposure can still cause problems) when used occasionally like the typical hobbyist would. You get more exposure from 10 minutes in the summer sun than you would get from a day using one of those little handheld UV lights, just don't go staring directly into the LEDs. If you are curing resin on a regular and daily basis then definitely go for an enclosure.
ahaha! for the light??? no. wear gloves because resin is some really bad stuff. you can develop an allergy to it over time if you get enough exposure. Will probably give you cancer about 1000x faster than uv light as well!
also surprise, everyone for the 70's who had those blacklight posters aren't dead right now! haha its just so funny to be scared of UV light as the one guy pointed out... how bout the giant ball of unchecked nuclear energy in the sky? haha
Here comes the most powerful unit GW’s ever come up with: Lawyers!
No believe it or not GW don’t mind you recasting or 3d printing parts. the only restriction is that you cannot use them in official tournaments. Here is a video that explains everything but I have added the time stamp for the legality of 3d printing and recasting. ruclips.net/video/djumZlYSJjE/видео.html
@@ravan9929 I seem to remember someone getting a cease order from GW for posting a video about casting with blue stuff. Also, I tried watching that video before and found its format obnoxious.
@@ravan9929 No believe it or not Gw fucking hate recasters, 3d printers and 3rd party parts, they got their ass handed to them in cort after they tried to sue a small 3rd party models producer and has ever since been really fucking strict with copyright and intellectual property.
@@ravan9929 BUUULLLSHIT RUclipsrs have received cease and desists when they make molds of 40k stuff lol
I use sculpting tools to push epoxy into the mold details then bulk out the main body of the piece. I like apoxie sculpt because you can use isopropyl alcohol to brush away the excess flash or to thin it significantly before putting the two halves of the mold together
For alignment, have you tried making a few dent in the first mold part, so when you make the second piece it would form some sort of tongue and groove fit
Plasmo does this in his video!
Yeah you need at least 3 registration marks for the mold halves to fit back together
I would love to see you making things for the minis to use. I know this is more diorama then table top game, but little fires with pots of soup, tents for sleeping, storing stuff, planning your battle, for cooking or as a lazarette tent would be great. And for the battle itself: chariots!
I've dabbled with recasting. I've found success with two part silicon molds. I use a lego box frame and press an even layer of plasticine clay into it. I then press the model on it's sprue or custom venting into the clay up to the part's mold line, and poke keying holes in the corners and voids. I mix up silicon and pour from a height in one corner of the mold box. Once it has set, I disassemble, leaving the model in the silicon, but cleaning all the clay off. Then you just flip it over, rebuild the box, dust the silicon with very small amount of talcum powder, the pour another batch of silicon over it to make the other half.
Important note, you will think that you screwed up and didn't put enough talc and the mold fully bonded. Which yes that might be the case, but also even if you did everything right, the mold will still be challenging to separate. Your forearms will be burning by the time you get your sprue out. If you do it often enough, you'll start to look like a gorilla, it's good fun.
its amazing for wall pieces or taking reliefs off sector mechanicus to build buildings, for really detailed stuff use gsw acrylic resin to pour into your moulds (:
also start from the middle of what you want and press outwards so you don't get bubbles press mould over the top of what you want.
You could always warm the blue stuff up with a headgun, that way you can keep it softer for longer and you don't get water disturbing the mold. Maybe even make two way molds easier by having the upper mold "melt" ontop and get into crevices.
Nope that would just result in a stuck together single block of plastic if you heated the top while it was on the other half of the mold. Even if your top half plastic is too hot, it will reheat the bottom half and stick together.
@@teagancombest6049 I remember making silicone molds way way back, and to avoid the second part sticking to the 1st one the suggestion was always to use vaseline. I think it should work the same with blue stuff
I've recently discovered bluestuff & have been making some lounges & bucket seats for boats, trucks & cars in 1/35 using fibreglass resin. They come out with a cloth like texture.
I'm happy with the results.
Very interesting, I've experimented with blue stuff to repair broken/missing ork bows with Sprue Goo and had excellent results, I now have usable models again 😆😆😆
It's pretty good with a single sided mould, two part moulds are tricky, imho. But it's awesome for recasting small details, imho. Especially handy in kitbashing.
For quick casts in Bleu stuff I use cheap polyester car body filler ( in press mold work) Or I use PU resin for pouring in a mold. Both fast solutions.
What a brilliant video, fresh new idea
Presentation was genuine this is quality content !
Looking forward to the Dave and Jen project you teased. We haven't seen Jen in a mini-video for so long...
I imagine multiple thinner layers of UV resin would work great, build it up over three or four pours.
Back in the day I used a mould system that allowed me to reproduce figures. It used a clay like heavy sand and two wood frames into which the bottom was filled, the model pressed in along with some match sticks and then the top half filled. The two halves were then separated and the original taken out. The halves were then joined together, there were dowels that ensured a match to both halves, and once joined the match sticks were pulled out leaving a vent and pouring spout. It then heated pewter in a crusible, (Thank god for gas) skimmed the dross and poured the pewter into the mould. Give it ten for cooling and lift the top half off. The positioning dowels forced you to lift vertically so the pewter sprue did not wreck the mould. Usually the cast would require some filing and voila I got a new gun or horse.
The point is, for full shaped casts you need liquid going into a mould. The whole thing is on its way out with 3d printers and if you can't afford one but you have a mate who can, you can get them to print for you for the cost of a beer and the resin.
My suggestion is if you still have some of the shields on the sprues, chop them up so you have an injection cast. then use the blue stuff (like everyone is suggesting in the comments) with a Lego frame. make sure you use 2 half’s and keyframes for alignment with part of the sprue as close to the edge as possible for a resin injection. You want a long set time to keep the temp down (24 to 48hrs) If you feel adventurous you can use melted sprues as you media for injecting but you will have to find the sweet spot of the melting point and be in a well ventilated room.
ha, I bought Blue Stuff for this same test but never have had the time to try it out. Glad to watch you do it.
It just seems like it would be easier to make milliput molds and use sophie and toffee uv resin to duplicate your parts.
how do you cure the resin on a 2-part mold when the milliput is not transparent though?
@@GloriousGrunt you could always do half cast and then glue both parts together. It's not like they don't already know how to put together minis with pieces.
I have tried using a pourable 2 part resin and it worked well for simple push molded (one sided) parts. However when i tried to make a two sided mold (ie push the part into the first blob of blue stuff, let that cool and set and then push another blob of blue stuff to make the other side of the mold) i had to cut a pouring channel into the the cooled down blue stuff.
When pouring the resin in, it seemed to go ok but on every test, the resin didn't reach the far end of the mold
Plus the resin had a tendency to spill out the sides.
A friend suggested that an air bubble was forming in the mold stopping the resin from filling the mold properly so i cut in a series of extra channels to help the resin spread throughout the mold but so far this is still not working to produce a decently molded part.
This is odd because i have some experience in making RTV rubber molds and casting in both white metal and in resin.
Oh well i will havr to keep experimenting and at least the blue stuff is reusable.
Hmm, maybe a hotplate on low with pan of constantly boiling water with a floating small tinfoil pie pan? It might keep the Bluestuff very soft (hmm, maybe even liquefied - bad if it never reset) while you make your mold.
You could always go the old school route and just run with liquid latex reinforced with cheesecloth or fiberglass. Not reusable but for the price difference vs material purchased . . .
I do this, it works, it won't get too hot and it will always go back to solid once it cools. It's way better than trying to rush with hot water in a dish that will cool in 5 minutes
I was able to use blue stuff and Oatey Fix-It Stick to get all 3 Mega-Gargants from a single GW kit. Did the same thing with the Maggoth Lord kit and a Beast of Nurgle kit. Love the stuff.
You made entire torsos? how did you keep the mold-lines in check?
The UV resin might be having a harder time to cure because the blue stuff is blue and not totally clear. UV resin needs clear molds so you can shine light through all sides. The blue stuff is not totally opaque though so you might be able to flip it over and shine light through the bottom of the mold, though it might be slower. You can also get more powerful UV lamps than the little flashlights (like lamps for gel nails) and that might help as well.
I've never used it, but the blue stuff looks exactly like Oyumaru (from Japan).
I've been thinking about getting some so i can make tau torsos and i think they'd be perfect for this, they have a small amount of details and are basically balls. Thanks Dave, legend!
Is the bottom of the torso flat like guard torsos? if so you might be able to make a 1-part mold with the top open. Just push green-stuff in or liquid resin and scrape off the top. You could also put a toothpick in while they set and then pull them out like popsicles lol.
Did you ever try it? I am trying my first molds of tau torsos.
I use a small heat gun to heat up the blue stuff. Then cover what I'm moulding. I then let it cool sometimes I will pop in the fridge especially if I'm making a two-part mould. It will not stick to cold blue stuff. Sometimes I will use thermoplastic pellets to create a stiff shell. I avoid casting materials that generate heat as it will soften the blue stuff and make it warp or worse stick to the material you cast.
Do you use the pellets on the outside of the blue stuff mould, or to cast with?
@@Finn-pe7uj on the outside to prevent the bluestuff from warping the layer that the plastic pellets form is like a removable shell.
@@MidasClaw Thanks Ross. Do you prefer this method to using, say, a bottlecap or a lego mould case?
@@Finn-pe7uj on bigger molds this helps use less blue stuff. But if the bottle cap is easier for you do that.
@@MidasClaw thanks! What is the biggest thing you'd attempt to cast in blue stuff?
I'm planning on using this material to make some molds of a gundam model kit leg, i just need to get some more as my brother borrowed my thing a year ago and i still haven't gotten it back
What about making silicone molds with vents and using dissolved-in-solvent plastic (dense-polystyrene)?
liquid resins would also work, silicon molds and resins seems to be what the pros use for the really detailed stuff :)
Great info for someone getting in but id recommend watching some more vids because there is a lot of depth that can be went into to perfect the usage of this mold making material :)
I had some prior experience with two sided silicone molds before trying bluestuff/oyumaru that really helped me get good results for two sided stuff.
Using legos for a box and a masher to get good even contact against the whole part, making the first side using clay with the bit embedded(like 2 side silicone mold making) and adding keying/registration so the two sides will locate properly against each other.
A side effect of using the legos is that the molds get right angles and are a lot easier to clamp together, ive used green stuff to recreate bits but also pourable 2 part resin.
Replicated a bunch of bitz for a friend of mine so he could complete both options in a necron sniper/whatever-the-other-option-is-kit.
Last one sided bit i did was the front of a Space Marine Terminator torso that had gone missing, had another one so whipping up another was pretty quick and easy, i did however from experience know that one sometimes does not get it perfect on the first go so i actually did three molds and three green stuff pressing, picking the best result to use.
I've used this stuff to recast arms I wanted more of. And sometimes shields.
Love the stuff
I've done it with Milliput, and mixed it a load with water to 'paint' into the mould for the fine detail. When that's set you can add in regular Milliput mix to fill out the mold. Works well for stuff like head recasts, but I'd never try getting something like those wings from it.
For every 10 press molds I attempt I get perhaps 1 or 2 that are worth working with. If it has thin bits, strands, ropes, chains, anything that has multiple layers you can't get around I don't even bother unless I remove those bits, press mold the main torso or whatever and the bits, then replace the odd bits. The right amount of putty and a sold fit mold with possibly some weight on the top to result in the least amount of mold line and flash is a must. I would tell people to practice to the point you fill the mold flush to where it isn't too much but not too little and don't be discouraged if you end up wasting half to 3/4ths of your first putty mix kit.
I know someone who made a load of cadian legs and torsos. They are real simple parts but they are the only thing you don't get duplicates of in a box of guardsmen.
He got this and was able to essentially make extra squads and also duplicate some of the simple command squad parts (like the officer's trenchcoat legs, bolt pistol, meltagun etc) he managed to make all the infantry needed for a infantry heavy 1000pt guard army from a infantry squad, command squad and heavy weapons squad. He got the parts to add a few special weapons squads, extra heavy weapons teams, sniper squads, a extra command squad and 2 extra infantry squads. He did have to duplicate some lasguns too, but again they are simple parts. Certainly worth the money for him.
Oh he used some epoxy from a DIY store, but i'm not sure which brand. I thought about using this ever since he did it.
I've been wanting to use bluestuff to make extra combi-bolter bits so I can find a use for all those add-ons you get for the ONE COMBI-BOLTER YOU GET IN THE TACTICAL MARINE BOX!!!!! Seriously, you get the bits for combi-grav to combi-flamer yet only one combi bolter bit to make one. I've realized you need extra bits from devastators to really give your marines options. One thing I'm sad about that recasting won't fix is that you can't really dual wield melee weapons.
Ooo the uv resin in a mould would be a really cool effect for scepters and stuff like that. Like you cast it in resin, then paint over the solid bits and leave just a clear piece where the gem is
Oooh I really should watch more of these cool tests with stuff for minis so I have gift ideas for my mini-fan friends
I have it too and use it mainly to duplicate some bases and basing material from Age of sigmar bases set (40 and 65mm bases).
That's the limit at which I'm able to use blue stuff and what I need it for in the first place anyway.
In that regards it's just fantastic and makes putties and airdrying clay hold its details pretty well making the bases of my Stormcasts look really nice :)
Someone may have mentioned it already but plaster requires 2 parts Plaster of Paris, 2 parts Water & 1 part wood glue. one can also add acrylic paint to the mix. I haven't seen a video yet on it, however. Since glue is glue, maybe try it on a mold that hasn't turned out very well. Probably need to use a release agent for this medium. But I agree Vaz is a better option, less complicated & no mess. Take care
/Rosemary
It's an interesting option to have on hand for when cheap or fast are more important than fine details.
I think I'll still look into silicone rubber instead of thermoplastic, but thanks for showing your results.
thankyou for showing how hard it is to use ,you got a sub from me,looking forward to watching your future vids and catch up on old.
Things I've blue stuffed:
Daemon Prince legs and back
Topknots for White Scars (from Chaos Marines, orks and Daemonettes)
Chaos rhino decorative bits (especially Doom Siren looking bit for Noise Marines)
Chapter symbols for pauldrons
Been using this stuff for a couple years now, great for older miniatures with lower amounts of detail (squats!), have found Milliput combined with paperclips for added support really get a good end result as it's set in 6 hours or less and there's no shrinkage.
Just gotta really push the epoxy into all the little details (sculpting tools at the ready!) and to not use too much of it when doing a two part mold otherwise things can really warp.
Also use vaseline to keep new molds sticking together and Lego blocks to make frames to control how big/tall the mold should be.
Oh shit, you’re part of Jazza’s crew!! IMMEDIATELY SUBSCRIBED lol
Could you use a heat gun or blow drier to "dry/blow away" the water after the soak and keep it "hot" or would that be mess it up
You don't want to heat the 2 parts of the molds together or they will turn into 1 piece.
@@teagancombest6049 not melt but dry and remove the water BEFORE you make the impression
Paint up a couple shields and mix them in a unit and see if they can be picked out? Thanks though! I al so picked some up but have not really tried using it yet. Cheers!
I found out that keeping the boiled water in a thermal flask (while you aren't using it / to top up your water container with blue stuff) is really great idea, other wise you might need to run your kettle often, as as soon as the water temp drop, it becomes a bit more difficult to shape the stuff.
While plasmos video is really good I’ve had limited success making full bits. I’ve found initially I got quite a lot of squeeze out and even with putting less in I got a lot of slightly misaligned bits. Definitely something to practice on, so don’t expect amazing results first try.
For press molds blue stuff is great, I’ve managed some nice pieces using greenstuff, milliput and even gently coaxing unbaked sculpey out of the molds.
If they're misaligned you need more registration marks. 3 is the minimum but more is better. Also completely cool your first half before adding the top of the mold. I like to put mine in the fridge first so it's really cold and doesn't get heated up by the top half and stick together.
@@teagancombest6049 Thanks for the tips. I feel like I’ve been doing that and still get sub optimal results. A fully formed bit but slightly misaligned and chunky mold lines. I have a fairly adequate thunder hammer mold so I may mess with different putties and being as conservative as possible with the putty.
@@Nigelius yeah I mean that's kinda just how press molds work. They're not ideal for everything. I play nurgle so pieces being chunky and sloppy doesn't bother me, in fact it could even be a bonus. I made 2 horns for my converted nurgle Ghorgon from the Rotigus horns and even the owner of my LGS said he couldnt tell they were milliput. So it works for organic shapes and textures. I haven't actually tried doing like armor or something that needs precision.
@@teagancombest6049 Good to hear it’s working out for you. I have been using it more for organic pieces like Wolf heads and paws for my space wolves. Smaller bits that I can sculpt larger areas of fur around. So far I have a cast of Bjorns Wolf pelt which allows me to add heads and paw pelts to other green stuffing and a thunderwolf head cast which may form a substantial piece of pelt.
For my Epoxy moldings i use Epo-putty, JB-weld quick weld (made for plastic pipes, quick set time) and Green Stuff. Depending on the figure im casting the ratio's change but i usually try to do a 1/3 part of each. If not 2/4 of either epo or green stuff, 1/4 of JB Quick weld, and 1/4 of whatever you didn't use for 2/4's. And blue stuff casting is very tricky, those wings you made were so close i would try it again, in frame to fit (lego's are nice) and find a nice weight so when you put your top piece of oyumaru/blue stuff on it has a little weight on top to keep it all in place.
I have some coming in the near future. I’m not deterred by your difficulties in the slightest. I can tell that there’s a learning curve but I’m not looking to replicate fine and spindly details, just maybe special weapons from hard to find/expensive kits like umbral-6’s rifle and I’ll try out to copy the Catachan Colonel’s heads too. I had to pull strings on one and pay more than I wanted to on the other, respectively. Still, I learn from watching, a lot and both videos I think gave me a solid foundation!! Thanks again for the video on the subject!!
Great video I was wondering what is the easiest paints to make a gaining board
The Blue Stuff material is very similar to what DIY athletic mouthguards are made of. Some mouth guards are extremely cheap. If you only need a small amount, or want to try this technique without committing to a large initial purchase, that may be an option.
Have you considered a heatgun for the blue stuff? I haven't worked with that thermoplastic, but for other thermoplastics it works great.
Anyone else catch the subtle shout out to Goobertown?
Dave is the best. Everyone should have a Dave... >:3
Where do I buy that material? I am from Argentina. I also want to know if it is possible to get transparent. Thank you
if the water is too much of a problem you can try using a heat gun - difficult to handle but very clean and very fast once you get the hang of it.
SIt your pot of wet plaster on a paint shaker, the vibration releases the bubbles
Thanks for this video! What material was used for the cast at 8:27 please?
I use a clear version to make molds. . I brought it back in the 90s and it's still fine. . . I use it for making helmet crest, shield designs etc for my Empire Knights, for my knights of the blazing sun for example I took moulds of the metal grand masters shield, the sun on his helmet and then recreated it over all 25 Knights in the unit. . I have always just use green stuff for the items I create but plaster was good if you are making a large base. . I find plastervonly works on thick items and needs overnight to fully dry. .
Have you considered a waterbath to heat it (put it in a thin pod coverd with boiling water)?
Did you try 2 part molds and resin? I had issues with leakage.
A trick for thin plaster molds is to add a piece of paper kitchen towel to the back of the mold. This gives them some much needed strength.
The main probelm I found with blue stuff - when you peel them apart to remove the original? It distorts the mould.
And as you've discovered - it has no 'overflow' method for excess moulding material.
Nice mask! Splatoon is my favourite game
The blue stuff reminds me of old “boil and bite” mouth guards I used to wear playing sports as a kid. You wouldn’t have much time to mold it either.
If it is like that, I used to used a clean sponge to quickly dab the plastic before immediately molding it to my teeth. 🤔
I've used blue stuff for a while.. replicated many figures and parts.. what i've found is, mixing GREEN STUFF and Milliput 1:1 gives the best epoxy material. Dries quicker and stronger, can be quite tough to mix the two.
Yup, stuff gets removeable and rigid enough in just under two hours, but only gets fully cured in 24-48hrs. Premix the blue-wrapped Milliput part with blue part from GS, then premix the yellow with the clear-packed part. This way it's easier to mix together.
@@Velcraft Never thought of that! I premix both which probably takes the same time thinking about it haha. But i'll give that a go.
I've used blue stuff. It is better for thinner stuff if you're using green stuff as your casting agent. Thicker objects tend to kind of push out the mould and require quite a bit of cleanup. Worked great for duplicating the special legion insignias on rhino and land raider doors that forge world sells so i didn't need to buy a bunch for all my vehicles.
Have you tried melting down sprues in acetone and using the resulting goo to fill the molds?
If, like me, you don't have a model shop anywhere near you and you're put off by the cost of the "blue stuff", just get the generic stuff from Amazon or similar, just search for Oyumaru it's the exact same stuff, you heat it up in water, push things in it to make a mold etc.. but it's a lot cheaper and normally it's cheaper for more of it, the only "downside" if you can call it one is that it normally comes in a load of random colours.
Ok, I need to know what brand kettle that is!!!
I went through the same thing. It works great on flat one sided pieces but I can't get it to work on 2 sides
the reason why your resin takes forever curing is because of the colour of the blue stuff.. resin cures much faster with clear moulds for some reason. I make jewelry with uv resin all the time and now I only buy clear moulds
But I just received it for xmas and I can't wait to try it
highly recommend polymorph, its like blue stuff but you get basically a bucket of it
this vid is accurate to how it has gone for me with blue stuff. The parts I pulled out today are the best so far but have a lot of flash. I have only used green stuff however and I have no clean-up after.
If they don't respect the " on air" light it just means "game on" for you.
If you use UV resin with Blue Stuff try to use flashlight for a moment, then turn it off, wait a bit and repeat. otherwise it can melt blue stuff, and it could mix with resin.
RIP Dave's outro. Gone, but never forgotten
Very helpful! I was thinking of using UV-Resin as well 😃
Huzzah,, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My expeirence:
Use a lego frame. You can put the 2 part mold better with a frame and for 1 part mold you can press in harder without deforming the mold.
For the water use a paper towel. Take out quickly wrap it in one for a second and then make the mold you have enough time.
For 2 part mold cut air wents where the excess milliput can go so no extra 1-2 millimeter layer will be between the 2 half.
Fill the milliput into the halves from one corner and spread it all over the mold so there will be no air bubbles. Then push together both halves (with air went to escape the excess)
Can you do it with melted sprues?
I tried this myself using epo-putty, as seen on the plasmo video. That putty is so worth it. This is an easy method for making small replacement pieces for models/figures. Thanks for the video! This method isn't as popular as it should be.
-John
I ran into the same problem with flash. I havent tried it yet, I usually just cut off the flash the best I can and roll with it, but if I was going to produce a bunch of something, I would weigh the epoxy/milliput and figure out the exact amount I needed. Im getting better at eye balling it, but sometimes im way off lol.
im old enough to remember Dave telling Jazza NOT to use blue stuff to recast GW products.
That's totally what I'm going to do, when I get my own debit card to pay for the stuff with, and get an extra space marine box (preferable devastators since they've got most of the melee weapons needed).
if you put it in boiling water on the stove so the water stays boiling and pull it out you will get a longer working time and it will get crisper detail
If the water is a problem then try softening it with a double boiler like you do with chocolate.
Yeah the idea of using hot water in a bowl is a bad one, you need to keep it hot so a double boiler or just sticking it in a pan of water boiling on the stove is ideal