One other cool thing you can do with this technique is 'float' reinforcing bars on the inside of your parts. For something like that thunder hammer, the haft will be really bendy with green stuff or really brittle with milliput. So just before pressing the two halves of the filled mould together, lay in a length of paperclip or brass rod right down the centre of the haft, it'll come out much more strong and stiff. For bonus points, sculpt some tentacles or cables, cast them in a two-part mould in green stuff with a thin florist's wire reinforcement, and when the putty cures they're basically poseable.
By far the *best* most in depth video about Blue Stuff. Most don't even show the failures or mention how making a two part mold sorta melts them together, your simple but effective methods really help demonstrate what to do and how to avoid messes
You can also use Sprue Goo (leftover model sprues, cut up into small pieces and melted down with acetone) in these molds, but it's best used for very thin pieces. Otherwise, the acetone collects in one place and gives you big bubble cavities in two-part molds. I never thought of using Lego with Oyumaru to make the molds stay together, that's really smart! I found that one of the best ways to ensure the two parts of the mold could come apart later was to put the first half in the fridge for a while, then heat up the putty for the second half, slap it on, and throw the whole thing in the fridge again. The cold half of the mold resists melting long enough to get it back into the fridge where everything can cool down and the edges don't melt together nearly as much. Then, when it's time to peel them apart, I'd put them in my pocket to get them slightly warm and pull them apart that way. Easy peasy.
Before pressing part into the Blue Stuff , you should warm it up slightly . Pressing it in cold will cool the blue stuff a bit ,some details will be not as sharp. I mean your molds are great , just another tip worth trying
i use milliput, and the best application is for bulky bodies (like Cities of Sigmar dwarfs), because you don't risk to lose details or to break them... they give you 20 pair of arms, 20 heads, and 10 bodies: it's my duty to make 20 models
I need to do some replacement cockpits with detailon both sides, I might try the 2 half press method with UV resin and hope I can get it all the way hardened haha.
Don't heat the blue stuff in a container you're going to eat or drink from ever again, remnants of your epoxy/resin will remain on the blue stuff and can be pretty toxic.
That's why I use a paper cup to heat the water in microwave and when the cup has been used a few times I throw it in my fire pit or into a old shredder I have to make papermache projects
This might be another good use of my paint water jars. I'm never going to drink from them (I'm not a fool who keeps their drinking glass and paint water next to each other; those go on entirely separate desks I have to turn 90 degrees in my chair to access). And they're safe to hold boiled water in. (I'm also not one of those savages who licks their brushes, so no hazard there).
I had never thought of a Lego press before. It's ingenious! I usually cast with a 1::1 mix of green stuff and brown stuff in my blue stuff molds. And I've almost never had a use for sprue goo, but now I want to use an Oyumaru cast to make a Milliput mold and try to fill that with sprue goo. It's almost never an issue with recent character models anymore, but I hate mortals going into battle sans helmets, and for the longest time GW sold almost only helmetless character kits, so that was my top priority first use case for casting my own bits, followed by a bunch of pistols for the 2017 edition of Kill Team, and then additional bodies to not let all the extra weapons, heads, and often legs go to waste. And I'm excited for Warhammer: The Old World, very much including all the beautiful returning metal models, but I hate working with metal, and some are infamously top-heavy, to boot, so I'll most likely copy 'em all.
My man you deserve more views on this video. This is a great and very comprehensive guide on how to use bluestuff. It got me pumped up to replicate some bits and pieces I need more of :)
@@TheAll-InNerd quick question, would you happen to know the approximate temperature of the bluestuff once it's out of the water and soft to mold? I was wondering if I could use a filament enclosure instead of Legos because, well, I don't have any Legos and I can't seem to find any at reasonable prices. And I figured it can't be too hot since you mostly use your fingers to press it down. Let me know if you happen to have a clue, thanks!
@@lart93 that should work fine as long as you have a few layer lines in the walls of your print. It’s a good idea if you have one size that you’ll use often. You could burn your fingers picking out the pieces when they’re as hot as they can be but not enough to melt plastic. Just maybe soften it a bit if it’s very thin. 😁 Good luck!
you can also mix greenstuff with miliput, first mix them separately then mix them together, it creates a much stronger putty excellent for parts. Another possible solution is epoxy glue, cures after 24 hrs but havent tried it myself, heard it can work.
I’ve actually tried mixing them both and I had high hopes for the result it but it just didn’t work out for me. I used the Fine milliput then but it just came out as a sticky mess. I have to try it again sometime and use normal Milliput. 😊 Some epoxy can get hot when mixed right? That could be a problem with the blue stuff unless you make the milliput-mold. 😁
Thanks for a really interesting and fun video ☺ Very well explained and some killer dance floor moves into the bargain! I've subscribed 👍😆😆😆 Apparently mixing green stuff AND Milliput (50/50) gives the best of both products. I haven't tried this yet but one day.... One day!!
A video taht is as always - good, as always - funny, as always - yeaches You stuff...but this time..Stefan doing 90's disco dance - TOP 3!!! Keep them comming!
Thank you for your kind words! The suit was made 10 years ago and have passed it's prime! :D I'm just starting another suit with my 3D-printers this time around. :)
You need to use releas Wax when doing double sided molds. Or at least use Kitch Oil like Sunflower Oil. If you do big parts like that TH-Hammer use a peace of Wire and lay it in the middel between 2 smal ammounts of Greenstuff when pressing it into the mold. So you end up with a more resistant Handelpart that doesnt flex or snap as easy.
😂 That outtake. Great job of the methods. Not sure, but maybe isopropyl alcohol would work better to join two bits of milliput. It works well to smooth the stuff while sculpting with it.
I found recasting miniatures with milliput often has them looking quite chunky compared to original models and the weight of milliput recast after is nearly 2 times heavier.
@@neurodaemon I’ve been trying to make my own sprue goo without luck and I think liquid GS would be a bit fragile. But I haven’t tried so I can’t say for certain.
whats the best way to mold complex model parts like death guard pieces with lots of crevices and horns/squiggly bits? Trying to do their weapons at the moment but still not getting perfect results that are usable
One shop who sells stuff for cosplay and also Blue stuff recommended to me, that if I want to use hot glue gun, I should put the Blue stuff in freezer before I fill it with the glue. What do you think? Could this prevent the Blue Stuff from melting?
That’s an interesting idea! It would be a test that require speed before the blue stuff starts to thaw! I like it tho so I might try it in the future! 😄
Will 2-part liquid epoxy resin release after drying when poured into a one-sided Blue Stuff mold? 🤔 Or will the chemical heat cause the Blue Stuff to soften and stick?
My guess is that the chemical reaction will get too warm and melt the blue stuff. I don’t have that much experience with resin but I know that it’ll get warm when curing.
@@TheAll-InNerd Thank you for your quick reply. I suspect you're right even though I have no experience with any of this, outside of construction epoxy, and it gets HOT. 🔥
There are no silly questions! However I haven’t tried this but I know that people have used Blue Stuff with ‘sprue goo’ that contains acetone and they seemed to have problems with bubbles. Maybe it’s from the acetone eating into the blue stuff or just the sprue goo being unreliable.
Whitemorph is cheaper but not a good alternative... It sticks while soft (When you're putting in the object to cast) and then solidifies without any bend or stretch, so getting your parts or cast parts out is near impossible
Nä har inte testat en helt gubbe. Den måste nog vara rätt så simpel för att resultatet ska blir bra så det trycks ut green stuff/milliput i alla små utrymmen. Jag föredrar green stuff men milliput är bra på sitt sätt också. 😁
Question. Would you recommend me to use a one-sided mold or a double press mold for a sword? It's for a Uruk-Hai mini as sadly it fell, broke and got lost, so I'm missing a sword.
I would recommend a double press mold. You could use a small piece of a paper clip or a wire in the middle of the mold to get a reinforced sword that hopefully won’t break as easy.
Since sprue goo has acetone in it I would make a test before doing something bigger. I’ve been trying to suceed with sprue goo myself but all the acetone I’ve tried have seem to be too potent så the plastic never really cures and gets hard again.
Sprue goo can work for one-part open-faced moulds (and I've never had a problem with the solvents damaging the thermoplastic) bear in mind that it shrinks a lot as it hardens because a high proportion of the volume is the liquid solvent that evaporates out. It's no good for volume casting as it leaves lots of voids as it shrinks. On the plus side it's excellent for copying relief details onto plastic parts as you can line the mould with the goo then press a blank part into it and it hardens pre-welded to the part.
If you just cool it down fast it shouldn’t stick to each other. I’ve never tried with talc and I don’t know if the talc would get into the soft blue stuff and ruin it in the long run.
Would that be much different than using Green Stuff or Milliput?
5 месяцев назад
@@TheAll-InNerd I think so but not sure. The concrete is more fluid so I dont think having the mold in two parts as here would be a good way. And I am not sure if the mold lines will come off nice. I think I need to make the mold like one hollow piece so I can poure the concete down. That will propablly not be ideal for complex miniatures, but it doesnt need to. I have just ordered som blue stuff so I can try it out. Can you recommend some kind of clay to sculp something to make the mold around?
Maybe some kind of silicone mold would work better then. There’s both a fluid 2 part mix and a clay that you can mix that hardens. The clay could be a bit hard to get your model/part out of tho if it’s deep in it.
Hey man! I've actually tested that out and I really had high hopes for it. I mixed it with 'Fine' milliput and it all just turned too sticky and gooey for my taste. 😅
For sculpting it can be great, and doesn't have to be 50:50 exactly... More GS will be stickier and give, more rubbery bits when cured, whereas putting in more milliput or Apoxie will give harder more brittle bits. For something with thin and fine details I might go heavier on the GS so the sword or whatever is less likely to break, but a shield doesn't need the flexibility.
I'm trying to copy some 1/6 Scale Clone Trooper DC-17 Blasters. I'm getting frustrated. They either come out with the two halves uneven or a little too thick. I need to get them perfect. I was thinking about adding an overflow port by laying a long cylindrical object in the mold so there will be a channel to allow the excess milliput to flow out when I press it together. Has anyone tried that?
@@TheAll-InNerd Hmm. Milliput is supposedly a skin irritant, though I haven't had any problems so far. I haven't used it much, and only tiny amounts. I should probably really be using gloves, though that would require finding ones that actually fit.
@@minisarefuntopaint I’ve used Milliput without gloves without any skinproblems. For me it was just the sticky mess that I didn’t like. But my hands have endured lots of materials so maybe they’ve gotten used to it. 😅
@@TheAll-InNerd Thanks, that's good to know. Maybe it only bothers some people? Also, thanks for the instructions on blue stuff! I have just used it to make my first molds, of some sea stars and a brain coral I sculpted.
Thanks man I appreciate it! Well I guess not that many know that this channel exist! 🙈 But thanks to your comments they might get introduced to someone new! 😁
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
One other cool thing you can do with this technique is 'float' reinforcing bars on the inside of your parts. For something like that thunder hammer, the haft will be really bendy with green stuff or really brittle with milliput. So just before pressing the two halves of the filled mould together, lay in a length of paperclip or brass rod right down the centre of the haft, it'll come out much more strong and stiff.
For bonus points, sculpt some tentacles or cables, cast them in a two-part mould in green stuff with a thin florist's wire reinforcement, and when the putty cures they're basically poseable.
That’s some solid advice right there JakeStaines! Thanks. 😁
By far the *best* most in depth video about Blue Stuff. Most don't even show the failures or mention how making a two part mold sorta melts them together, your simple but effective methods really help demonstrate what to do and how to avoid messes
Glad to hear it helped you out! 😁
"You can even see my unevenly drilled barrel holes" felt
You can also use Sprue Goo (leftover model sprues, cut up into small pieces and melted down with acetone) in these molds, but it's best used for very thin pieces. Otherwise, the acetone collects in one place and gives you big bubble cavities in two-part molds.
I never thought of using Lego with Oyumaru to make the molds stay together, that's really smart!
I found that one of the best ways to ensure the two parts of the mold could come apart later was to put the first half in the fridge for a while, then heat up the putty for the second half, slap it on, and throw the whole thing in the fridge again. The cold half of the mold resists melting long enough to get it back into the fridge where everything can cool down and the edges don't melt together nearly as much. Then, when it's time to peel them apart, I'd put them in my pocket to get them slightly warm and pull them apart that way. Easy peasy.
That’s some solid advice man, thank you! 😁
I'd quite to see a video on sprue goo now.
Before pressing part into the Blue Stuff , you should warm it up slightly . Pressing it in cold will cool the blue stuff a bit ,some details will be not as sharp.
I mean your molds are great , just another tip worth trying
will try the lego, two part molds seldom work great for me.
The more Learn about this hobby, the more I love it!
While I'm focusing on improving my paint skills, I'm definitively trying this at some time
i use milliput, and the best application is for bulky bodies (like Cities of Sigmar dwarfs), because you don't risk to lose details or to break them...
they give you 20 pair of arms, 20 heads, and 10 bodies: it's my duty to make 20 models
Sounds about right! 😄
I don’t need to dance to make the best of my 3 minute I use that time to watch videos like yours😁😁😁
Just wanted to say thank you I just got into 40K on budget. Can some of my minis were missing limbs this saved me so much money!!!
Things I learned today, blue stuff is magic!
So many Swedish RUclipsrs these days. Love it.
I need to do some replacement cockpits with detailon both sides, I might try the 2 half press method with UV resin and hope I can get it all the way hardened haha.
Don't heat the blue stuff in a container you're going to eat or drink from ever again, remnants of your epoxy/resin will remain on the blue stuff and can be pretty toxic.
I use the leftovers as chewing gum.
That's why I use a paper cup to heat the water in microwave and when the cup has been used a few times I throw it in my fire pit or into a old shredder I have to make papermache projects
I'm only just learning this NOW??? RIP me I guess
This might be another good use of my paint water jars. I'm never going to drink from them (I'm not a fool who keeps their drinking glass and paint water next to each other; those go on entirely separate desks I have to turn 90 degrees in my chair to access). And they're safe to hold boiled water in. (I'm also not one of those savages who licks their brushes, so no hazard there).
Suuuper impressed! Love that Lego press, it’s genius!!
this is awesome, custom weapons and repairing broken parts will be easier than ever. awesome video!
Mix milliput with green stuff to get firmness and flexibility. Best of both worlds
I actually tried that. But with the Fine milliput. I had really high hopes for it but it just didn’t work for me.
The legi forge is genius I need to build one right now thank you for showing me
I had the same issues with 2 faces cloning but never thought about using lego, you're a genius man ! "Mom where are my olds legos ??"
I really can’t take cred for the Lego-idea but I’m happy that I could help you out! 😄
great jsut bought blue stuff. now i have to go find some lego., what a hobby this is
I had never thought of a Lego press before. It's ingenious! I usually cast with a 1::1 mix of green stuff and brown stuff in my blue stuff molds. And I've almost never had a use for sprue goo, but now I want to use an Oyumaru cast to make a Milliput mold and try to fill that with sprue goo.
It's almost never an issue with recent character models anymore, but I hate mortals going into battle sans helmets, and for the longest time GW sold almost only helmetless character kits, so that was my top priority first use case for casting my own bits, followed by a bunch of pistols for the 2017 edition of Kill Team, and then additional bodies to not let all the extra weapons, heads, and often legs go to waste. And I'm excited for Warhammer: The Old World, very much including all the beautiful returning metal models, but I hate working with metal, and some are infamously top-heavy, to boot, so I'll most likely copy 'em all.
This is by far the best tutorial for making casts of your parts Thank-you for the video and the extra little tips my hobby friend 🤓
Ive been really wanting to recast bakugan parts with this stuff im finally gonna try it.
Exercise is a great idea for that 3 minutes of spare time!
Oh yeah! 😁😎🦾
Thank you so much for this video 👍
The song in the middle got me hooked...Great Job!
if you want to add another step you could fill the mold with water then measure how much water is in it to get the exact volume of putty to use
I love using blue stuff!
My man you deserve more views on this video. This is a great and very comprehensive guide on how to use bluestuff. It got me pumped up to replicate some bits and pieces I need more of :)
Thanks man I appreciate it! 😁
I’m happy to hear that the video helped you out and I hope your bits turn out alright!
@@TheAll-InNerd quick question, would you happen to know the approximate temperature of the bluestuff once it's out of the water and soft to mold? I was wondering if I could use a filament enclosure instead of Legos because, well, I don't have any Legos and I can't seem to find any at reasonable prices. And I figured it can't be too hot since you mostly use your fingers to press it down. Let me know if you happen to have a clue, thanks!
@@lart93 that should work fine as long as you have a few layer lines in the walls of your print. It’s a good idea if you have one size that you’ll use often. You could burn your fingers picking out the pieces when they’re as hot as they can be but not enough to melt plastic. Just maybe soften it a bit if it’s very thin. 😁 Good luck!
you can also mix greenstuff with miliput, first mix them separately then mix them together, it creates a much stronger putty excellent for parts. Another possible solution is epoxy glue, cures after 24 hrs but havent tried it myself, heard it can work.
I’ve actually tried mixing them both and I had high hopes for the result it but it just didn’t work out for me. I used the Fine milliput then but it just came out as a sticky mess. I have to try it again sometime and use normal Milliput. 😊 Some epoxy can get hot when mixed right? That could be a problem with the blue stuff unless you make the milliput-mold. 😁
Chcemy więcej tańca!!!
omg!! Dude, this blue stuff is exactly the kind of tool i was looking for! Haha
Thanks mate! :)
Thanks for a really interesting and fun video ☺ Very well explained and some killer dance floor moves into the bargain! I've subscribed 👍😆😆😆
Apparently mixing green stuff AND Milliput (50/50) gives the best of both products. I haven't tried this yet but one day.... One day!!
You’re a champ man thank you.
A video taht is as always - good, as always - funny, as always - yeaches You stuff...but this time..Stefan doing 90's disco dance - TOP 3!!!
Keep them comming!
😮 I need that iron man armour. Loved the Vid man, your effort has not gone unappreciated
Thank you for your kind words!
The suit was made 10 years ago and have passed it's prime! :D I'm just starting another suit with my 3D-printers this time around. :)
Thumbs up just for the dancing. 👍🏻
I appreciate it man! 😄
THAT SKIT WAS THE BEST! SUBBED AND LIKED!!!
I've been waiting for this! Amazing as always!
I've heard of people coming milliput with greenstuff to make a firm but flexible end result.
You need to use releas Wax when doing double sided molds. Or at least use Kitch Oil like Sunflower Oil.
If you do big parts like that TH-Hammer use a peace of Wire and lay it in the middel between 2 smal ammounts of Greenstuff when pressing it into the mold. So you end up with a more resistant Handelpart that doesnt flex or snap as easy.
Yeah I've gotten the tip about supporting TH's and such with a wire or thin steel rod. It's a solid advice! :D
Replace Green with Brown stuff, so that the opieces aren't flimsy.
😂 That outtake. Great job of the methods. Not sure, but maybe isopropyl alcohol would work better to join two bits of milliput. It works well to smooth the stuff while sculpting with it.
Thanks man! 😄
I’ve never tried that actually!
I think as long as you make sure it’s not dry when adding the two parts they should combine fine. 😁
Great video, thank you so much!
Great video, Ill have to try that lego method
Thank you and good luck! 😁
Really useful video for using blue stuff. You deserve a lot more views than you have. Engagement + Sub.
Very nice and well done! you deserve more subs. Keep up the good work!
Thank you kindly for those words! I do appreciate it. 😁
You deserve far more subscribers, excellent video as always
Thank you for those kind words! 😁🙏🏻
Awesome
Great vid !
I found recasting miniatures with milliput often has them looking quite chunky compared to original models and the weight of milliput recast after is nearly 2 times heavier.
Yeah I mainly stick to making small parts if I need any.
how about using liquid greenstuff or DIY spur gap filler?
@@neurodaemon I’ve been trying to make my own sprue goo without luck and I think liquid GS would be a bit fragile. But I haven’t tried so I can’t say for certain.
whats the best way to mold complex model parts like death guard pieces with lots of crevices and horns/squiggly bits?
Trying to do their weapons at the moment but still not getting perfect results that are usable
One shop who sells stuff for cosplay and also Blue stuff recommended to me, that if I want to use hot glue gun, I should put the Blue stuff in freezer before I fill it with the glue. What do you think? Could this prevent the Blue Stuff from melting?
That’s an interesting idea! It would be a test that require speed before the blue stuff starts to thaw! I like it tho so I might try it in the future! 😄
@@TheAll-InNerd I'm planning to try it soon so then I can tell you feedback :3
How long does the blue stuff mold last once a I make an impression?
Will 2-part liquid epoxy resin release after drying when poured into a one-sided Blue Stuff mold? 🤔 Or will the chemical heat cause the Blue Stuff to soften and stick?
My guess is that the chemical reaction will get too warm and melt the blue stuff.
I don’t have that much experience with resin but I know that it’ll get warm when curing.
@@TheAll-InNerd Thank you for your quick reply. I suspect you're right even though I have no experience with any of this, outside of construction epoxy, and it gets HOT. 🔥
Would this work with gunpla runner goo for recasting??? I just lost one of my beam saber handles so I was wondering would this work??
@@Ball-destroyers I have no idea! I have to look it up! 😅
I found that if I put the first layer before adding the top (for 2-part), the two sides didn't stick nearly as much.
silly question
does blue stuff or other polymorph thermoplastic melt like other plastic when dipped inside aceton or other chemical that melts it?
There are no silly questions!
However I haven’t tried this but I know that people have used Blue Stuff with ‘sprue goo’ that contains acetone and they seemed to have problems with bubbles. Maybe it’s from the acetone eating into the blue stuff or just the sprue goo being unreliable.
Whitemorph is cheaper but not a good alternative... It sticks while soft (When you're putting in the object to cast) and then solidifies without any bend or stretch, so getting your parts or cast parts out is near impossible
1000 subscribers 🤜🍻🤛
Har du testat göra en hel gubbe??
Vilken tycker du är bättre green stuff eller milliput?
Nä har inte testat en helt gubbe. Den måste nog vara rätt så simpel för att resultatet ska blir bra så det trycks ut green stuff/milliput i alla små utrymmen.
Jag föredrar green stuff men milliput är bra på sitt sätt också. 😁
👌👌👌
Question. Would you recommend me to use a one-sided mold or a double press mold for a sword?
It's for a Uruk-Hai mini as sadly it fell, broke and got lost, so I'm missing a sword.
I would recommend a double press mold. You could use a small piece of a paper clip or a wire in the middle of the mold to get a reinforced sword that hopefully won’t break as easy.
@@TheAll-InNerd thanks so much!
Great video! Definitely going to have to get some of this. Do you know if it reacts to plastic glue? Would sprue goo be a viable option for a cast?
Since sprue goo has acetone in it I would make a test before doing something bigger.
I’ve been trying to suceed with sprue goo myself but all the acetone I’ve tried have seem to be too potent så the plastic never really cures and gets hard again.
Sprue goo can work for one-part open-faced moulds (and I've never had a problem with the solvents damaging the thermoplastic) bear in mind that it shrinks a lot as it hardens because a high proportion of the volume is the liquid solvent that evaporates out. It's no good for volume casting as it leaves lots of voids as it shrinks.
On the plus side it's excellent for copying relief details onto plastic parts as you can line the mould with the goo then press a blank part into it and it hardens pre-welded to the part.
You should probably put in a flashing light warning for that bit.
Can it be used on wood carvings ?
I’ve never tried it but I don’t see why not. It’s just a bit of heat.
What if you used a 50:50 mix of milliput and green stuff?
@@benjaminrogers8875 Yeah that could absolutely work. Some people say that’s the perfect mix. I need to try that out. 😁
Can talc help separate the two sides of a blue stuff mold without ruining it?
If you just cool it down fast it shouldn’t stick to each other. I’ve never tried with talc and I don’t know if the talc would get into the soft blue stuff and ruin it in the long run.
Yes thanks! I'll surely try it someday! @@TheAll-InNerd
Water boiler?
That er, that's a kettle...
😂🤘
@@OldNavajoTricks Potato potato? 😁 🥔
@TheAll-InNerd aaah the sound of a Harley...
😂
I'm going to use milliput. What's the curing time
I would wait at least 12 hours.
I am thinking about using blue stuff to make small molds for hobby concrete. I am not sure of the process.
Would that be much different than using Green Stuff or Milliput?
@@TheAll-InNerd I think so but not sure. The concrete is more fluid so I dont think having the mold in two parts as here would be a good way. And I am not sure if the mold lines will come off nice.
I think I need to make the mold like one hollow piece so I can poure the concete down. That will propablly not be ideal for complex miniatures, but it doesnt need to.
I have just ordered som blue stuff so I can try it out.
Can you recommend some kind of clay to sculp something to make the mold around?
Maybe some kind of silicone mold would work better then.
There’s both a fluid 2 part mix and a clay that you can mix that hardens.
The clay could be a bit hard to get your model/part out of tho if it’s deep in it.
I have been trying to use resin in two part molds but many of them leaked. How can I avoid that?
Resin usually have a chemical reaction when the resin gets heated up and melt the mold. So I wouldn’t recommend using that with blue stuff.
Does this also work with miliput?
Yeah I do show it in the video. It’s just a bit too messy for my taste. 😁
Great video! I saw someone mention that mixing 50/50 of green stuff and milliput makes the best result, have you tried that method?
Hey man! I've actually tested that out and I really had high hopes for it. I mixed it with 'Fine' milliput and it all just turned too sticky and gooey for my taste. 😅
For sculpting it can be great, and doesn't have to be 50:50 exactly... More GS will be stickier and give, more rubbery bits when cured, whereas putting in more milliput or Apoxie will give harder more brittle bits. For something with thin and fine details I might go heavier on the GS so the sword or whatever is less likely to break, but a shield doesn't need the flexibility.
Stick the blue stuff in the freezer, goes harder and might not melt with UV resin.
This is more or less how I replicate bits and entire miniatures for my own use
Oh heck yeah, now to duplicate the new terminators and turn them to world eaters
I'm trying to copy some 1/6 Scale Clone Trooper DC-17 Blasters. I'm getting frustrated. They either come out with the two halves uneven or a little too thick. I need to get them perfect. I was thinking about adding an overflow port by laying a long cylindrical object in the mold so there will be a channel to allow the excess milliput to flow out when I press it together. Has anyone tried that?
@@kschantz I’ve gotten that as a tip but I haven’t tried it yet. But I think it could work! 😁
Why are you using gloves with milliput but not green stuff?
@@minisarefuntopaint Because Milliput is quite messy compared to Green Stuff in my opinion. No need for gloves with GS.
@@TheAll-InNerd So it's not dangerous. That's good. I don't mind a little mess, but skin absorbant toxins I can do without.
@@TheAll-InNerd Hmm. Milliput is supposedly a skin irritant, though I haven't had any problems so far. I haven't used it much, and only tiny amounts. I should probably really be using gloves, though that would require finding ones that actually fit.
@@minisarefuntopaint I’ve used Milliput without gloves without any skinproblems. For me it was just the sticky mess that I didn’t like. But my hands have endured lots of materials so maybe they’ve gotten used to it. 😅
@@TheAll-InNerd Thanks, that's good to know. Maybe it only bothers some people?
Also, thanks for the instructions on blue stuff! I have just used it to make my first molds, of some sea stars and a brain coral I sculpted.
Ah yes. A RUclips copyright strike at 1:20 . I can feel your pain.
Ha this was awesome, why do have so few views?
Thanks man I appreciate it! Well I guess not that many know that this channel exist! 🙈 But thanks to your comments they might get introduced to someone new! 😁
Heres a little trick i use to make separation of mold parts easyer: put tinfolil around model - this will limit contact surface of mold parts.
Blue stuff has ALWAYS been to soft to make moulds out off
Looks like it works pretty well!