You could use cling-wraps for better cleanups when using clay at the start. You could either put the cling wrap on top of the clay just before you set the piece, or put it on top of the piece after you've set it ontop of the clay and just before you add the first half of the mold. Then you can cut out wooden skewers (or just cut out sprues) on the holes since the cling-wrap is gonna cocer them up, a big problem when using this trick.
Subbed. Im having trouble to recast a missing part of my gundam, i only have the right part and missing the left part. The question is how to mirror recast it? Edit: the missing part have same shape but have different side ball joint.
That’s a good question. Some parts may not be possible to recast from the opposing side. But it sounds like yours is relatively simple? Maybe you can add some non curing clay like plasticine to it when making the mold? Without knowing the piece I can’t say 100%
@@MidnightHatter the missing piece is the left part of the leg with side ball joint (for side leg armor) in Load Astray Omega. Maybe should i just recast the same right part, then nip the ball joint and glue it on the opposite to make the missing left part?
This was great! I may have to try this out sometime! Only issue is that I have never taken chemistry so I am not sure that it will turn out well. But I guess trial and error right?
Just started playing with this stuff a week ago. Exciting stuff, but I think I need to buy some legos off Ebay now. 😊 Good to know about letting the thermoplastic cool down naturally. For Resin, I'm wondering if it affects the reuse life of the Blue Stuff? 🤔 Thanks for the video! 👍
It is a great product! Legos make life just a little easier. Great question about the resin! I’ve been using oyumaru and resin for over a year with no problems reusing it, but the life of an individual mold is reduced by quite a bit because of the heat generated by the resin which warps the mold. Especially with the quick cast resins and it’s even worse with larger parts. But hey, that’s the best part about oyumaru! Just make a new mold and start again!
Great video! quick question, do you think it's possible to repeat this but instead of using epoxy resin, using spare model kit runners melted with acetone?
Thanks! I have not had success casting parts using sprue glue/sprue goo even with more reliable molds made from silicone (see my experiment hereRecycle Your Runners! | How I Cast Gunpla Parts from Melted Plastic in Silicone Molds ruclips.net/video/OgjuM_FyXgU/видео.html) Stay tuned though because after A LOT of research on plastics I may have a solution on that front.
I hate when that happens. I get air bubbles in the cast from time to time too. You can definitely patch it with some extra resin and a toothpick or if you have UV resin, sometime that can be easier to work with when you're doing the little patch jobs because you can cure it faster.
It’s oyumaru as well! It comes in a few colors. I like the clear because you can see what’s going on in the mold: www.amazon.com/dp/B07M9XS3FX/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_NT170X6ZGNRHRBN5PCQ6?linkCode=ml2&tag=midnighthatte-20
@@TabletopWargamer Unfortunately no, they can stick together but only if both sides are warm. If one side is cool and the other is melted, you don't get as much stickiness.
@@MidnightHatter Wow ! Thanks for the tip. Thing is, I just bought 4 old boxes of Ral Partha Dragonlances miniatures that are way overpriced and out of print. I want to keep the originals intact while still be able to paint them and I've been searching for weeks over the internet on the best method to do this. Problem is Ral Partha miniatures are very detailed and have small parts too. I'm crossing my fingers using your resin will work.
@@sylvainp7608 Well if they are highly detailed you may be better off using silicone over oyumaru. Silicone captures details way better than oyumaru if only a little messier.
The king of mold making is Robert Tolone, he specializes in silicone mold though. This tutorial is one of the few that he does a two part mold: ruclips.net/video/wDLWaWZwNm8/видео.htmlsi=1tA0eGCOUJsI-rox. Even though he's using silicone, you could in theory use the same techniques with oyumaru, but oyumaru will not be as water-tight as silicone, so it may make a bit of a mess, especially with a slow curing resin. The important takeaway is the "sprue" or pour spout that you mold into one side in order to allow you to pour resin down into.
@@MidnightHatter yeahh that brittleness kinda ruins its usage for me. Plus I need to do it as well for the Nobel gundam legs and hair piece, Because both of my nieces want their own gundoms And making copies of the only true female gundam Parts would be beneficial for them So they get to build their own, And I mean they are going to be 7 and 11 So if I can get them into the hobby at a younger age it's a good thing And that's a great way Plus all I have to do is just get some spray paint and I can paint them up for them And they can slap them together And have them for years to come
That’s so sweet of you! Passing the hobby on to a new generation. I love it. In that case, I wonder if Cosclay might be even better! It has to be baked to cure so you couldn’t do it in an oyumaru mold, you may need to go silicone, but the final product cures to a soft rubber-like plastic like the Mobile Suit in Action figures if you remember that line.
@@MidnightHatter Well my dad got me into the hobby when the no grade wing gundam models hit the stores here in the states, And as I have no kids of my own why not pass it on to my nieces Because they're about the same age my stepbrother and I were when we got our first models. He got the wing shenlong and I got shenlong My cousin got sandrock and deathscythe And my godbrother got heavyarms and tallgeese. And because I have a bunch of different models they can pick and choose parts from them So they can make their own custom unit. And I mean maybe in the future I might do that for that but for right now Just making A simple model for them to Build and put on display That they put together themselves maybe not paint Is way better than nothing.
48 hours. Even then it was still a little soft, which was great for trimming the flashing off but it was about 72 hours before the parts hardened into their final shape.
@@MidnightHatter I tried recasting joint parts using epoxy resin and let it cure for 3 days but the final result is a little bendy. Is it still curing or I messed up the mixture?
I would say probably not. If you use heat to melt the runners you’d melt the mold. If you use acetone to melt the runners, you’d probably get imperfections like the pock marks I got when I tried melted runners in silicone.
@@MidnightHatter thanks for the input, I'll think for other ways to use the runners that piled up. Used it for seam line removal so far, not sure what to do next.
Brah if that you rich please send me a hg star build strike gundam I'm from India and I can't effort the Shipping and importing its way too expensive and on Amazon India they are selling fake ones at 100$ so one day I'd do you a favor too if you send me a star build strike gundam
Hi! I've been trying this with green stuff, but the item I'm trying to cast keeps coming out bigger than the original. Any help would be appreciated, ask any questions necessary. Thanks!
I think the most likely problem is that green stuff is much denser than liquid resin or soft putty, so the amount of force you have to apply to squeeze out any excess is A LOT. If you want to use green stuff, you definitely need to make registration divots in one side of the mold so that both halves join together correctly and stay aligned while you smash it. Before it’s done curing you can also open the mold and cut out the flash to make clean up easier later. I’d recommend this tutorial:ruclips.net/video/piG04g76Ma8/видео.htmlsi=MTD1WbqC3WD1kjPB
@@MidnightHatter Thanks a lot! I really had not thought about the density. After watching your videos I realized I probably wasn’t using enough force, and started using a clamp. This gave me a much better result, but I think there’s still room for lots of improvement. Also, I have been using bits of sprue as pins to keep it aligned. Thanks again, I’ll check out that video
@@DanteMac26 You can also play around with the greenstuff ratios; a softer more pliable mix might take longer to cure and be less rigid, but may deform your molds less under pressure.
![Recasting a Tau Broadside [part 1]: Making the Mold [Warhammer 40k]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jDGwsVDTFlc/mqdefault.jpg)
With the money I spent on the lego I could have just bought the parts... jokes aside, cool video
🤣🤣🤣 Too true!
You could use cling-wraps for better cleanups when using clay at the start. You could either put the cling wrap on top of the clay just before you set the piece, or put it on top of the piece after you've set it ontop of the clay and just before you add the first half of the mold. Then you can cut out wooden skewers (or just cut out sprues) on the holes since the cling-wrap is gonna cocer them up, a big problem when using this trick.
Wow these turned out amazing.
I wish you did this on the podcast. But this was an awesome video.
Waw thank I was searching for recasting gunpla nad this one was youre updated and more detailed one. :3
Now to find one that successfully uses the runner plastic so it's already the right color
Subbed.
Im having trouble to recast a missing part of my gundam, i only have the right part and missing the left part. The question is how to mirror recast it?
Edit: the missing part have same shape but have different side ball joint.
That’s a good question. Some parts may not be possible to recast from the opposing side. But it sounds like yours is relatively simple? Maybe you can add some non curing clay like plasticine to it when making the mold? Without knowing the piece I can’t say 100%
@@MidnightHatter the missing piece is the left part of the leg with side ball joint (for side leg armor) in Load Astray Omega.
Maybe should i just recast the same right part, then nip the ball joint and glue it on the opposite to make the missing left part?
That’s a good idea. If it really is no different besides which side the ball joint is fixed on that could work.
This was great! I may have to try this out sometime! Only issue is that I have never taken chemistry so I am not sure that it will turn out well. But I guess trial and error right?
Just started playing with this stuff a week ago. Exciting stuff, but I think I need to buy some legos off Ebay now. 😊
Good to know about letting the thermoplastic cool down naturally. For Resin, I'm wondering if it affects the reuse life of the Blue Stuff? 🤔
Thanks for the video! 👍
It is a great product! Legos make life just a little easier. Great question about the resin! I’ve been using oyumaru and resin for over a year with no problems reusing it, but the life of an individual mold is reduced by quite a bit because of the heat generated by the resin which warps the mold. Especially with the quick cast resins and it’s even worse with larger parts. But hey, that’s the best part about oyumaru! Just make a new mold and start again!
Thanks for the video. You didn't video the cleaning of the clay. Besides freezing, any tips on cleaning off all the clay? Do you use IPA or tool? 🙏
I haven’t tried IPA, but that might help. I have used toothbrushes to scrub away tiny bits of leftover clay.
Great video! quick question, do you think it's possible to repeat this but instead of using epoxy resin, using spare model kit runners melted with acetone?
Thanks! I have not had success casting parts using sprue glue/sprue goo even with more reliable molds made from silicone (see my experiment hereRecycle Your Runners! | How I Cast Gunpla Parts from Melted Plastic in Silicone Molds
ruclips.net/video/OgjuM_FyXgU/видео.html)
Stay tuned though because after A LOT of research on plastics I may have a solution on that front.
You are good. but I tried failing some holed or missing if it can add little more again in hole and missing?
I hate when that happens. I get air bubbles in the cast from time to time too. You can definitely patch it with some extra resin and a toothpick or if you have UV resin, sometime that can be easier to work with when you're doing the little patch jobs because you can cure it faster.
@@MidnightHatter 48 hours later then add little more right?
@@wingfaiman1437 Yeah that should be plenty of time to cure.
wow
What exactly is the clear melty plastic that you used for the second half of the mold?
It’s oyumaru as well! It comes in a few colors. I like the clear because you can see what’s going on in the mold: www.amazon.com/dp/B07M9XS3FX/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_NT170X6ZGNRHRBN5PCQ6?linkCode=ml2&tag=midnighthatte-20
@@MidnightHatter oh wow, you mean the clear one naturally doesn't stick to the blue one?
@@TabletopWargamer Unfortunately no, they can stick together but only if both sides are warm. If one side is cool and the other is melted, you don't get as much stickiness.
@@MidnightHatter that's actually pretty good though, thank you
I thought you couldn't use resin with oyumaru since the curing process generates heat and it would deform the mold ?
Turns out you can get away with it with certain types of resin. The quick-cure stuff I like to use gets too hot, but the slow resin was fine.
@@MidnightHatter Wow ! Thanks for the tip. Thing is, I just bought 4 old boxes of Ral Partha Dragonlances miniatures that are way overpriced and out of print. I want to keep the originals intact while still be able to paint them and I've been searching for weeks over the internet on the best method to do this. Problem is Ral Partha miniatures are very detailed and have small parts too. I'm crossing my fingers using your resin will work.
@@sylvainp7608 Well if they are highly detailed you may be better off using silicone over oyumaru. Silicone captures details way better than oyumaru if only a little messier.
Do you have a tutorial or link for a mold using a channel like you mentioned for when the parts arent as flat?
The king of mold making is Robert Tolone, he specializes in silicone mold though. This tutorial is one of the few that he does a two part mold: ruclips.net/video/wDLWaWZwNm8/видео.htmlsi=1tA0eGCOUJsI-rox.
Even though he's using silicone, you could in theory use the same techniques with oyumaru, but oyumaru will not be as water-tight as silicone, so it may make a bit of a mess, especially with a slow curing resin. The important takeaway is the "sprue" or pour spout that you mold into one side in order to allow you to pour resin down into.
i can't seem to find "plasticine clay" here, is there an alternative for it?
Any type of modeling clay that doesn't cure will work. NOT Sculpey. Even Play-Doh works, but it's just more of a mess to clean off.
I need to do this with my soon to come gcue legs for my custom m1 astray, but im gonna be using milliput instead if resin
Milliput is great! Apoxy Sculpt is another option, a bit cheaper, but also a little more brittle.
@@MidnightHatter yeahh that brittleness kinda ruins its usage for me. Plus I need to do it as well for the Nobel gundam legs and hair piece, Because both of my nieces want their own gundoms And making copies of the only true female gundam Parts would be beneficial for them So they get to build their own, And I mean they are going to be 7 and 11 So if I can get them into the hobby at a younger age it's a good thing And that's a great way Plus all I have to do is just get some spray paint and I can paint them up for them And they can slap them together And have them for years to come
That’s so sweet of you! Passing the hobby on to a new generation. I love it.
In that case, I wonder if Cosclay might be even better! It has to be baked to cure so you couldn’t do it in an oyumaru mold, you may need to go silicone, but the final product cures to a soft rubber-like plastic like the Mobile Suit in Action figures if you remember that line.
@@MidnightHatter Well my dad got me into the hobby when the no grade wing gundam models hit the stores here in the states, And as I have no kids of my own why not pass it on to my nieces Because they're about the same age my stepbrother and I were when we got our first models. He got the wing shenlong and I got shenlong My cousin got sandrock and deathscythe And my godbrother got heavyarms and tallgeese.
And because I have a bunch of different models they can pick and choose parts from them So they can make their own custom unit.
And I mean maybe in the future I might do that for that but for right now Just making A simple model for them to Build and put on display That they put together themselves maybe not paint Is way better than nothing.
With this i can mod cast Ibo frame too
Definitely!
Why not just use more bluestuff instead of the plastasine in the beginning? Wouldn't you get the two part mould in less steps doing it that way?
@@asimhussain8716 Gotcha, thanks for explaining that.
@@SonicoBomoMan, the explanatory comment is gone. :
what is that white clear mold material?
The stuff I used for the second half of the mold? It's oyumaru as well. It's comes it a very different colors.
@@MidnightHatter so it is rubbery as well?
the blue looks rock hard
How long did the resin cure?
48 hours. Even then it was still a little soft, which was great for trimming the flashing off but it was about 72 hours before the parts hardened into their final shape.
@@MidnightHatter I tried recasting joint parts using epoxy resin and let it cure for 3 days but the final result is a little bendy. Is it still curing or I messed up the mixture?
Im high af rn cus towards the end I thought you was making a weird sandwich
Can this work using melted runners?
I would say probably not. If you use heat to melt the runners you’d melt the mold. If you use acetone to melt the runners, you’d probably get imperfections like the pock marks I got when I tried melted runners in silicone.
@@MidnightHatter thanks for the input, I'll think for other ways to use the runners that piled up. Used it for seam line removal so far, not sure what to do next.
Zeta music
You know it. ❤️🔥
Interesting. But I suppose I'm lazy so I'd rather just buy duplicates of kits.
MGEX or rare kits have less find for duplicate one.
Brah if that you rich please send me a hg star build strike gundam I'm from India and I can't effort the Shipping and importing its way too expensive and on Amazon India they are selling fake ones at 100$ so one day I'd do you a favor too if you send me a star build strike gundam
Hi! I've been trying this with green stuff, but the item I'm trying to cast keeps coming out bigger than the original. Any help would be appreciated, ask any questions necessary. Thanks!
I think the most likely problem is that green stuff is much denser than liquid resin or soft putty, so the amount of force you have to apply to squeeze out any excess is A LOT. If you want to use green stuff, you definitely need to make registration divots in one side of the mold so that both halves join together correctly and stay aligned while you smash it. Before it’s done curing you can also open the mold and cut out the flash to make clean up easier later. I’d recommend this tutorial:ruclips.net/video/piG04g76Ma8/видео.htmlsi=MTD1WbqC3WD1kjPB
You can also try to soften the green stuff with a solvent like mineral spirits or something. It I haven’t tried that myself.
@@MidnightHatter Thanks a lot! I really had not thought about the density. After watching your videos I realized I probably wasn’t using enough force, and started using a clamp. This gave me a much better result, but I think there’s still room for lots of improvement. Also, I have been using bits of sprue as pins to keep it aligned. Thanks again, I’ll check out that video
@@DanteMac26 You can also play around with the greenstuff ratios; a softer more pliable mix might take longer to cure and be less rigid, but may deform your molds less under pressure.