I would like to thank all of you! Not only for watching and the kind words, but also sharing additional tips and ideas. That's what I find so amazing about our hobby and communities!
Holes in home casted models are not necessarily a bad thing and it can end up being a useful and unexpected bonus for you. Here's why : If a shield has holes, insert arrows in to them to depict a tirade of arrow fire. If a sword breaks while removing it from it's mould, use it to depict the failure of the weapon and why it was discarded, or place it near the hand of a dead man on your base, or even place it in a hole of the deceased to represent the sword being thrust deep into the torso, and it stays in the body because the dead man's sword was taken instead by the victorious slayer. Any dead bodies with holes can always be rescued in several ways. Firstly, by the addition of an arrow stalk you can add to its narrative. It makes the model look more realistic as it appears that he has succumbed to death by being hit with a salvo of archery fire, rather than just being dead with no reason as to how. Models should always be animated - in essence, telling the story of what's going on in that part of the battle. You can either create a new arrow, by the addition of a straight, green florest wire with some small, sculpted, green stuff flight arrows, added to the end of the exposed shaft, or, using a regular arrow, cutting off the arrow point and inserting into the hole. Even if the arrow shaft breaks there's no problem - just add the broken section to the models hand, thereby giving the impression that the dead man tried to remove it before dying). It looks especially good if the arrows are in the face or torso regions, hitting major organs or eyes, but they can still be used anywhere on the model. The holes can always be expanded and sculpted a little where an "explosive" crater has been formed, to depict a gruesome, painful demise to the enemy. It can be caused by plasma burn, bullets, laser burn, sonic immolation or even burning from a caustic chemical weapon. With the addition of blood and guts, small pieces of flesh, caustic chemicals, laser scars, or burning skin, hanging from the hole, a problem now has a solution. This wound could be from a shotgun, a plasma rifle, laser gun, sonic weapon, chemical attack or gunpowder grenade. If a body cast comes out flat in any area because not enough green stuff was used or enough pressure used to force it into the mold, then again there is always a solution. Make it look like the body has been "squashed" and been run over by a tank, wagon or stomped on by an elephant as it rushed forwards. Make extra ruts or stampede marks in the soil adjacent to the body (ground could consist of green stuff, mud products or fast setting epoxy and a black light) by rolling a wheel, pressing tank tracks, or elephant footprints into the soil around or close to the dead body, sometimes even on the flat area, like a muddy tank track over the body. This gives the clear indication to everyone that sees it, just how the man was killed. If the body breaks in any way while you are removing it from the cast, the answer is simple - this is how the soldier died and his body was simply hacked to death by a sword, or blown apart by explosion, or had whatever part of his body broke off, used to explain his death. A mass of blood and guts in a small area can always be used to narrate the story. Problems with a cast items can always be circumvented - you just have to change the way yout mind looks at things and see an opportunity to do something cool and impressive, as opposed to seeing a miscast disaster and failure. I hope this helps someone.
There's this Japanese stuff called Oyumaru, which is the same thing but a lot cheaper since it's not marketed to wargamers (funny how that works) I also find that Milliput works amazingly well in the molds, but greenstuff seems to be more readily available, at least in my area.
Thanks for letting me know! And I use miliput to put on my bases, but not to cast molds with. I feel like green stuff is a bit sturdier for it and also often cheaper when buying larger amounts.
I use PC super epoxy mixed with enamel paint (to color it and so you can see details better). If you take care that your molding material is dry, you can make perfect copies. It's even better to recast some extremely fragile pieces with this since it's more durable, and you can put some wire inside of the cast to make it even stronger.
Milliput is cheaper than green stuff where I live but DAS air dry clay is even cheaper. It’s not as resilient but if the piece is simple, it works well.
Oyumaru was actually the original as far as i know, then the CMON people released it branded as Instant Mold, and lastly the GSW people released it branded as Blue Stuff much later. But it's the same thing, a low temperature thermoplastic. Trent from Miscast has succeeded in using high temperature hot glue for the same purpose for much cheaper and in huge quantities for bigger stuff, and the local veterans mention going years ago to a local sports supplies store and getting the cheapest crappiest mouth guards for boxing and using them the same way. I imagine the hobby stuff has some grade of convenience over the alternatives but honestly haven't done a comparison (i have enough of the stuff for anything i need :P )
Great video! Bluestuff is awesome for convex originals but struggles if there are a lot of concave details on it, especially if it is small. Like sunken nuts and bolts. Try to have as little concave details on your original as possible and you will have far better results with less struggle. I prefer milliput instead of greenstuff for this technique. It is easy to control the consistence with water so you can fill your mold easier and have less bubble problems. Also you will not have to force it so much into the slightly malleable mold thus you avoid inflating the mold and risking your piece not matching the original in size. Lastly it is a lot easier to clean afterwards. Greenstuff is very rubbery while milliput becomes more like plaster, so you can scrape and sand it where you have to cut greenstuff. One exception is a sword for a mini for example. Greenstuffs flexibility makes it a lot more sturdy should it fall down. Milliput is strong but might break in this case.
That's a good point you make! I've seen people use a mix of GS and miliput for modelling, though never tried it myself so no idea how the final material feels or acts. Miliput would indeed be easier to work with, but it is indeed for the smaller, thinner pieces that I prefer using GS myself as I mainly use it to cast weapons and shields to decorate with. It is also cheaper for me personally to get, which is another reason haha. Next time I'll give the combination a go, however, see how that ends up!
With more complicated molds I would apply little bits of greenstuff at a time. It's much easier to work a smaller bit of greenstuff in, than keep adding more while pressing it in. That will hopefully avoid some air bubbles.
I've tried that, but in my experience it shows in the cast. The next 'level' is often a bit noticeable when it dried up. But perhaps I just screwed up, though.. that would also not surprise me 😅
Using a flat surface like this makes so much more sense than whatever I've been doing and it seems so obvious now LOL 😭 I boil the water in a kettle and then pour it into a jar with the blue stuff and cover it with the jar's lid flipped over. That way, you don't risk overdoing it with the heat and don't risk getting harmful substances (namely leftover putty) in your pot. I've also found using a silicone sculpting tool is useful for pushing the putty into the deepest parts of the mould, then pressing in the big chunks after it's all squished up in there before any of the putty has cured. Lastly, you can safely remove the casting after about 8 hours from the mould, without distorting it. This will let you practically peel flash off with your fingers. A hobby knife will cut through thin flash effortlessly, leaving you with really clean casts. You can then put it back into the mould to finish curing, or leave it out somewhere it won't be bothered. Waiting a full 24~48 hours for the putty to cure can make it difficult to cut through, leaving you with really jagged edges. I still can't get over not using a flat surface though...gonna make things a lot easier lmao
Using Lego also works very well. You just build a sort of square with the long bricks on one of the plates and fill it with the blue stuff. Then the mold has nowhere to go and can't shift around. I've tried it in the past and works very well, but stepped away from it as it takes quite some blue stuff to fill the holes with, leaving you with less material to work with and thus less molds.
Miliput or a combination of miliput and greenstuff is also what I would recommend just as copying a miniature or bit entirely front to back with blue stuff. Mostly just needs some work afterwards with a hobby knife and you got yourself a copy of a mini to „test“ anything just like color patterns on
on something like the skeleton. i wouldn't cut the flashing away. i'd leave it so when i put elemers glue and dirt on the base it ad a small grade to the dirt building up to the skeleton. it small but can make the figures look more towering as well.
Since the blue stuff seems to be somehwhat transparent im wondering if you just make the molds and then instead of bothering with green stuff just use liquid UV resin. It should fill the details better and be somewhat easier to work with.
There's clear "blue stuff". I have used it with UV resin. Its really helpful if you only need to cast something once or twice. (I use it to replace broken/missing parts of vintage model kits) Depending on what you're casting, you can tint the resin to get cool effects like beam sabers for Gundams.
The issue with UV resin is that it heats up when it dries, so yeah, the mold will last you 1-2 casts then it has softened enough to lose the detail and you have to make it again. But yeah, if you got the stuff it's good in a pinch, it's very expensive though. Just be sure to remove the bubbles before you cure it, i go with a needle and stir the thing removing any bubble i can see before i do it. For basing even those might be OK though, just use any bubble as battle damage, it's lying in the ground so it's not supposed to be in prime condition :P
I have not, but I do work with liquid green stuff for other purposes. Because of that, I don't think it would work.. it sometimes requires multiple layers of liquid green stuff to fill small gaps, I can only imagine how long it would take to fill a mold like this. But, I might be wrong of course! I suppose it could be useful to fill smaller parts of the mold to make sure it's completely covered and then use actual green stuff on top of that. Again, just my thoughts, I could be wrong haha
@@bopisminiatures That thing shrinks when it hardens so yeah, probably not good for this, or it's original gap-filling purpose, in fact about the only thing it's good for is to put some texture on flat stuff where you want texture, and there's cheaper alternatives for that. So yeah, don't bother with it. What i wanna try is resin, goes thin enough for even the thinnest mold, and the ones that take longer to harden are supposed to emit much less heat so wouldn't compromise the mold, tried it with UV resin and you can actually get 1-2 casts before you have to remake the mold but that's expensive so haven't tried more.
I have UV resin too (for my 3D prints). I am thinking about trying it out, see how it goes. Will have to get some new blue stuff though, avoid any leftover green stuff to get mixed in haha
Used this before I bought a resin 3d printer. The printer is much more efficient and gets better results. I also think green stuff is way to expensive for using it (except new sculptsor small repairs). Molds can be shaped to allow filling two components resin in it.
i could see this being a great way to make bulk terrain items for dungeon crafting. doors especially. would the Blue stuff work with other molding materials? or does it only work with green stuff?
As long as the material doesn't get warm or expand as it dries, it shouldn't be a problem! Miliput for instance would work well, too for terrain! For more detailed molds I would still suggest green stuff, however.
I'm really new to the crafting experience for miniatures, so forgive me if this is an otherwise 'obvious' question, or one that has been asked before, but: Can this sort of thing be done with milliput, as well?
You mean use milliput instead of green stuff? Yes and no. For bigger pieces it's fine, but when you work small, like a blade for instance, green stuff is a lot more flexible. Milliput might break if a piece is too thin. Some people mix the two to get a stronger cohesion, actually, but that would be more suitable for actual sculpting I think.
Might I suggest using sprue goo? All you need is a load of sprues a jar and something to melt the plastic down into goo. Absolutely love using it for gap filler too
Ah never heard of that before! Will have to look into it. Though I expect the melting plastic, or the fumes, to be rather toxic, no? How exactly do you use it if you don't mind explaining?
@@bopisminiatures keep a lid on the jar while the sprues melt down and for sure use it in a well ventilated area with gloves on but it's not that bad. I use it to fill molds ( mostly terrain ) or as gap filler on larger projects. It has an almost peanut butter consistency and can be put in a syringe to inject into molds if you want to get fancy. Great way to use up extra sprues and it hardens back into plastic when the chemical used to melt it fully evaporates so works with plastic glue
@@bopisminiatures you can make it using normal Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement and the sprue left sitting in it, if so it should be no more toxic than using the glue normally
'Blue' stuff haha Never knew why I got a clear version of it, but it works just as well though 🤔 Edit: I just saw your username. Now I get it. Sometimes I am a bit of an idiot, you see.
Mix 50/ 50% green stuff with brown stuff. It's better because it's hard but not brittle, not bendy but good for details, good working times to carve it for 2 days then it goes hard, and best of all its gold in color.
Never heard of brown stuff before! Is it a sort of miliput? I know those come in different colours and some people mix those two, but would be the first time I've heard of it as brown stuff.
I did that for some pieces, but thinner items (swords for instance) are not as flexible and break easier I've noticed. A mix of the two seems to work best, I suppose!
You mean like an actual miniature to play with? I'd say yes. It would be tougher than most resins even. Green stuff will be cured after a day, but it really hardens up after a while, making it even sturdier! That's why cleaning them up after 24 hours is also easier than once it's hardened all the way through.
I've tried making whole models from blue stuff and it's not really good for that sort of thing because you get too much flash or air bubbles. It's almost better to just sculpt the whole model yourself because you spend more time cleaning up the casting. The video does a good job of showing what you can use it for, which is making things that are only viewed from one side, like shields, shoulder pads, armor plates, etc. You could try cutting pieces in half with a jeweler's saw so they're perfectly flat and flush so you can cast both sides separately, then glue them together, but I haven't tried that and it may be too difficult with smaller parts. Plus, you lose part of the original as you remove material when you cut (no matter how you cut it).
@@nekrataali that's correct! Iwanted to mention it in the video, but decided not to, because I did not want to promote recasting to people as it is frowned upon (rightfully so). But you summed it up very nicely!
I actually have no idea what happened haha When I bought it, it was advertised as the regular blue bars that you normally get, but somehow I got the clear version.. I didn't mind as it works just as well, but for the sake of the video it did feel odd calling it 'blue' stuff when clearly it isn't haha
It's all the same thing, but the clear one is the "Instant Mold" brand, same thing in the end. The japanese Oyumaru can come in many colors. Or there's homemade alternatives too.
Using this technique since a few years. Advantages : ultra cheap, can get "official" symbols repetead as much as you want, the more molds you keep, the more variety you have. Disadvantages : it takes time, the details are less marked and clear and to copy a whole mini, it's not really worth it.
I definitely agree with you! Making entire models sure is tricky, and often not worth it as you have more chance ruining it and wasting green stuff that way in my opinion. Also did not mention it in the video as I did not want people to try making full models, as it is frowned upon in the hobby and especially at tournaments for instance. I did not want to put that naughty idea in their minds haha
@@bopisminiatures Well, the idea about making your own models using this technique... is not wrong. It's totally close to use 3D models as proxy. But that's another debate. I would say that they are alternative to the expensive green stuff. Most of the epoxy putties can get a similar result for way cheaper. I mostly use this technique for copying detail on flat panels, like some computers, or symbols on shields. It works very good, as the base doesn't need to be as precise and incredible as the mini itself.
Good point with the 3D prints, although those are often not allowed on tournaments too, of course. I guess it depends for what purposes one wants to use them. And definitely! For decorating purposes it sure works miracles IMO. Very user friendly and you can make as many molds as you like.
@@bopisminiatures Well, there are the official GW tournaments, where basically all that is not last edition GW products are banned (I really have difficulties with this) , but again, not really the topic here, and most of the other tournaments, which are far more permissive. As I paint the minis and not really play, I should say that I don't care that much. Still, most of the Warhammer and Warhammer 40k are doing like I was playing many (many) years ago: among a few friends, not really caring if all stuck to the letter of the hobby or not. And totally agree with the friendly, easy and quite fun part, using 3D prints parts, as well as self creations makes wonders. I like to use everything I have at my disposal, not preferring something particular, as long as it's fun and cheap.
@@klug5916 oh for sure! I mean I understand that GW would not allow 3rd party minis to be used, it is a business in the end, but for other tournaments, or especially with friends, no problem. I've always been more of a collector and painter myself too. Used to play the Lotr game back in the day, but nobody around me plays it, nor do I really have the interest in it. Never been much for competitive games haha But painting and building has always made my mind calm so I always kept doing it!
I use this method solely for (base) decorations and not to make profit or anything. That's also why I do not mention full figures, because I do not support the idea of recasting actual miniatures, nor want to give someone the idea. Besides, a full mini would be obvious if recasted this way.
I have one, but I can't print models or items that don't exist in .STL format. Also, not everyone can afford a resin printer and then this technique is very useful.
I would like to thank all of you! Not only for watching and the kind words, but also sharing additional tips and ideas. That's what I find so amazing about our hobby and communities!
Holes in home casted models are not necessarily a bad thing and it can end up being a useful and unexpected bonus for you. Here's why :
If a shield has holes, insert arrows in to them to depict a tirade of arrow fire.
If a sword breaks while removing it from it's mould, use it to depict the failure of the weapon and why it was discarded, or place it near the hand of a dead man on your base, or even place it in a hole of the deceased to represent the sword being thrust deep into the torso, and it stays in the body because the dead man's sword was taken instead by the victorious slayer.
Any dead bodies with holes can always be rescued in several ways. Firstly, by the addition of an arrow stalk you can add to its narrative. It makes the model look more realistic as it appears that he has succumbed to death by being hit with a salvo of archery fire, rather than just being dead with no reason as to how. Models should always be animated - in essence, telling the story of what's going on in that part of the battle.
You can either create a new arrow, by the addition of a straight, green florest wire with some small, sculpted, green stuff flight arrows, added to the end of the exposed shaft, or, using a regular arrow, cutting off the arrow point and inserting into the hole. Even if the arrow shaft breaks there's no problem - just add the broken section to the models hand, thereby giving the impression that the dead man tried to remove it before dying). It looks especially good if the arrows are in the face or torso regions, hitting major organs or eyes, but they can still be used anywhere on the model.
The holes can always be expanded and sculpted a little where an "explosive" crater has been formed, to depict a gruesome, painful demise to the enemy. It can be caused by plasma burn, bullets, laser burn, sonic immolation or even burning from a caustic chemical weapon.
With the addition of blood and guts, small pieces of flesh, caustic chemicals, laser scars, or burning skin, hanging from the hole, a problem now has a solution. This wound could be from a shotgun, a plasma rifle, laser gun, sonic weapon, chemical attack or gunpowder grenade.
If a body cast comes out flat in any area because not enough green stuff was used or enough pressure used to force it into the mold, then again there is always a solution.
Make it look like the body has been "squashed" and been run over by a tank, wagon or stomped on by an elephant as it rushed forwards.
Make extra ruts or stampede marks in the soil adjacent to the body (ground could consist of green stuff, mud products or fast setting epoxy and a black light) by rolling a wheel, pressing tank tracks, or elephant footprints into the soil around or close to the dead body, sometimes even on the flat area, like a muddy tank track over the body. This gives the clear indication to everyone that sees it, just how the man was killed.
If the body breaks in any way while you are removing it from the cast, the answer is simple - this is how the soldier died and his body was simply hacked to death by a sword, or blown apart by explosion, or had whatever part of his body broke off, used to explain his death. A mass of blood and guts in a small area can always be used to narrate the story.
Problems with a cast items can always be circumvented - you just have to change the way yout mind looks at things and see an opportunity to do something cool and impressive, as opposed to seeing a miscast disaster and failure.
I hope this helps someone.
Very descriptive wording, thank you for sharing! I'm sure I will be useful to some!
There's this Japanese stuff called Oyumaru, which is the same thing but a lot cheaper since it's not marketed to wargamers (funny how that works)
I also find that Milliput works amazingly well in the molds, but greenstuff seems to be more readily available, at least in my area.
Thanks for letting me know!
And I use miliput to put on my bases, but not to cast molds with. I feel like green stuff is a bit sturdier for it and also often cheaper when buying larger amounts.
I use PC super epoxy mixed with enamel paint (to color it and so you can see details better). If you take care that your molding material is dry, you can make perfect copies. It's even better to recast some extremely fragile pieces with this since it's more durable, and you can put some wire inside of the cast to make it even stronger.
@@jafabian37 the idea of using wire sure is a smart idea!
Milliput is cheaper than green stuff where I live but DAS air dry clay is even cheaper. It’s not as resilient but if the piece is simple, it works well.
Oyumaru was actually the original as far as i know, then the CMON people released it branded as Instant Mold, and lastly the GSW people released it branded as Blue Stuff much later. But it's the same thing, a low temperature thermoplastic. Trent from Miscast has succeeded in using high temperature hot glue for the same purpose for much cheaper and in huge quantities for bigger stuff, and the local veterans mention going years ago to a local sports supplies store and getting the cheapest crappiest mouth guards for boxing and using them the same way. I imagine the hobby stuff has some grade of convenience over the alternatives but honestly haven't done a comparison (i have enough of the stuff for anything i need :P )
you could fill your air bubbles with the liquid putty stuff that AK or Vallejo sell then they would be perfect
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely keep it in mind!
Great video!
Bluestuff is awesome for convex originals but struggles if there are a lot of concave details on it, especially if it is small. Like sunken nuts and bolts. Try to have as little concave details on your original as possible and you will have far better results with less struggle.
I prefer milliput instead of greenstuff for this technique. It is easy to control the consistence with water so you can fill your mold easier and have less bubble problems. Also you will not have to force it so much into the slightly malleable mold thus you avoid inflating the mold and risking your piece not matching the original in size. Lastly it is a lot easier to clean afterwards. Greenstuff is very rubbery while milliput becomes more like plaster, so you can scrape and sand it where you have to cut greenstuff. One exception is a sword for a mini for example. Greenstuffs flexibility makes it a lot more sturdy should it fall down. Milliput is strong but might break in this case.
That's a good point you make! I've seen people use a mix of GS and miliput for modelling, though never tried it myself so no idea how the final material feels or acts.
Miliput would indeed be easier to work with, but it is indeed for the smaller, thinner pieces that I prefer using GS myself as I mainly use it to cast weapons and shields to decorate with. It is also cheaper for me personally to get, which is another reason haha.
Next time I'll give the combination a go, however, see how that ends up!
With more complicated molds I would apply little bits of greenstuff at a time. It's much easier to work a smaller bit of greenstuff in, than keep adding more while pressing it in. That will hopefully avoid some air bubbles.
I've tried that, but in my experience it shows in the cast. The next 'level' is often a bit noticeable when it dried up. But perhaps I just screwed up, though.. that would also not surprise me 😅
Damn, not everyday do you find such informative video like this one. Reallly easy to follow and explained to depth.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad it was useful!
it's so good for making scatter terrain and fun objective bits
It sure is!
Using a flat surface like this makes so much more sense than whatever I've been doing and it seems so obvious now LOL 😭
I boil the water in a kettle and then pour it into a jar with the blue stuff and cover it with the jar's lid flipped over. That way, you don't risk overdoing it with the heat and don't risk getting harmful substances (namely leftover putty) in your pot.
I've also found using a silicone sculpting tool is useful for pushing the putty into the deepest parts of the mould, then pressing in the big chunks after it's all squished up in there before any of the putty has cured.
Lastly, you can safely remove the casting after about 8 hours from the mould, without distorting it. This will let you practically peel flash off with your fingers. A hobby knife will cut through thin flash effortlessly, leaving you with really clean casts. You can then put it back into the mould to finish curing, or leave it out somewhere it won't be bothered. Waiting a full 24~48 hours for the putty to cure can make it difficult to cut through, leaving you with really jagged edges.
I still can't get over not using a flat surface though...gonna make things a lot easier lmao
Using Lego also works very well. You just build a sort of square with the long bricks on one of the plates and fill it with the blue stuff. Then the mold has nowhere to go and can't shift around.
I've tried it in the past and works very well, but stepped away from it as it takes quite some blue stuff to fill the holes with, leaving you with less material to work with and thus less molds.
Miliput or a combination of miliput and greenstuff is also what I would recommend just as copying a miniature or bit entirely front to back with blue stuff. Mostly just needs some work afterwards with a hobby knife and you got yourself a copy of a mini to „test“ anything just like color patterns on
Good idea! I think the combination of the two also makes sculpting sturdier, no? I'm not much of a sculptor myself, but have seen people do it!
on something like the skeleton. i wouldn't cut the flashing away. i'd leave it so when i put elemers glue and dirt on the base it ad a small grade to the dirt building up to the skeleton. it small but can make the figures look more towering as well.
Good point, I haven't thought about that!
Yeah, it looks like more part of the bases - like it lays down there forever
My dad did something similar with plaster to make bricks for terrain
Ah that's also pretty well known indeed! I believe hirst arts works that way, if they're still around!
Since the blue stuff seems to be somehwhat transparent im wondering if you just make the molds and then instead of bothering with green stuff just use liquid UV resin. It should fill the details better and be somewhat easier to work with.
There's clear "blue stuff". I have used it with UV resin. Its really helpful if you only need to cast something once or twice. (I use it to replace broken/missing parts of vintage model kits)
Depending on what you're casting, you can tint the resin to get cool effects like beam sabers for Gundams.
I actually haven't thought of that before, good call!
I'll have to experiment with it some time and see the results. Thanks for the idea!
The issue with UV resin is that it heats up when it dries, so yeah, the mold will last you 1-2 casts then it has softened enough to lose the detail and you have to make it again. But yeah, if you got the stuff it's good in a pinch, it's very expensive though. Just be sure to remove the bubbles before you cure it, i go with a needle and stir the thing removing any bubble i can see before i do it.
For basing even those might be OK though, just use any bubble as battle damage, it's lying in the ground so it's not supposed to be in prime condition :P
Yes. But it is especially useful for making parts you wish to illuminate with LEDs.
Question, have you tried liquid green stuff for this process, might wrong better. But love the video, and will be ordering my Blue stuff asap.
I have not, but I do work with liquid green stuff for other purposes. Because of that, I don't think it would work.. it sometimes requires multiple layers of liquid green stuff to fill small gaps, I can only imagine how long it would take to fill a mold like this.
But, I might be wrong of course! I suppose it could be useful to fill smaller parts of the mold to make sure it's completely covered and then use actual green stuff on top of that.
Again, just my thoughts, I could be wrong haha
@@bopisminiatures That thing shrinks when it hardens so yeah, probably not good for this, or it's original gap-filling purpose, in fact about the only thing it's good for is to put some texture on flat stuff where you want texture, and there's cheaper alternatives for that. So yeah, don't bother with it.
What i wanna try is resin, goes thin enough for even the thinnest mold, and the ones that take longer to harden are supposed to emit much less heat so wouldn't compromise the mold, tried it with UV resin and you can actually get 1-2 casts before you have to remake the mold but that's expensive so haven't tried more.
I have UV resin too (for my 3D prints). I am thinking about trying it out, see how it goes. Will have to get some new blue stuff though, avoid any leftover green stuff to get mixed in haha
: D amazing for diorama building
Polyaclay could i make molds then the actually pparts with it too ???
Used this before I bought a resin 3d printer. The printer is much more efficient and gets better results. I also think green stuff is way to expensive for using it (except new sculptsor small repairs). Molds can be shaped to allow filling two components resin in it.
i could see this being a great way to make bulk terrain items for dungeon crafting. doors especially. would the Blue stuff work with other molding materials? or does it only work with green stuff?
As long as the material doesn't get warm or expand as it dries, it shouldn't be a problem!
Miliput for instance would work well, too for terrain! For more detailed molds I would still suggest green stuff, however.
I'm really new to the crafting experience for miniatures, so forgive me if this is an otherwise 'obvious' question, or one that has been asked before, but: Can this sort of thing be done with milliput, as well?
You mean use milliput instead of green stuff? Yes and no. For bigger pieces it's fine, but when you work small, like a blade for instance, green stuff is a lot more flexible. Milliput might break if a piece is too thin. Some people mix the two to get a stronger cohesion, actually, but that would be more suitable for actual sculpting I think.
Fantastic, thanks for the video!
Thank you for watching!
Might I suggest using sprue goo? All you need is a load of sprues a jar and something to melt the plastic down into goo. Absolutely love using it for gap filler too
Ah never heard of that before! Will have to look into it.
Though I expect the melting plastic, or the fumes, to be rather toxic, no?
How exactly do you use it if you don't mind explaining?
@@bopisminiatures keep a lid on the jar while the sprues melt down and for sure use it in a well ventilated area with gloves on but it's not that bad. I use it to fill molds ( mostly terrain ) or as gap filler on larger projects. It has an almost peanut butter consistency and can be put in a syringe to inject into molds if you want to get fancy. Great way to use up extra sprues and it hardens back into plastic when the chemical used to melt it fully evaporates so works with plastic glue
That's interesting, thank you for sharing!
I'll have to look into it for sure!
@@bopisminiatures you can make it using normal Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement and the sprue left sitting in it, if so it should be no more toxic than using the glue normally
Ah, thanks for the advice!
I'll definitely have to look into it, sounds like a useful little thing!
Great vid!
Thank you, hope it was useful!
Great video, thanks
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for watching!
@@bopisminiatures you’re welcome
Great video! I've used blue stuff in the past and it has helped me out in a pinch. Just found your channel and have subscribed.
-John
Thanks a lot John, I appreciate it!
It sure is a wonderful product to use, even for newcomers!
I LOVE THIS CHANNEL!
Looking forward to more fantastic videos
Stay happy healthy and fluid
Thank you! Currently started working on a new project that's based on the results of the poll I made.. Stay tuned! 😉
nice tutorial, well edited also
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
ty verry usefull
I'm glad to hear it was! Thank you for watching!
Super neat
Glad to hear, hope it was helpful!
You can also use some vaseline to lubricated the inside of the mould so you can extract the greenstuff easier
That's a great idea actually, thanks for sharing!
Oooohhh I've heard of blue stuff! Didn't for the life of me know what it was though man!
I hope that it will bring you a whole new world of wonders like it did for me!
930th subbscriber...I feel special :))
Thank you very much!
Nice video ☺️
Thank you! Hope it was useful!
THIS is blue stuff
'Blue' stuff haha
Never knew why I got a clear version of it, but it works just as well though 🤔
Edit: I just saw your username. Now I get it.
Sometimes I am a bit of an idiot, you see.
You should sell those molds. I’d love them at my local store
Afraid that would be illegal haha, but they're very easy to make so you can definitely make some yourself with ease! 😊
Mix 50/ 50% green stuff with brown stuff. It's better because it's hard but not brittle, not bendy but good for details, good working times to carve it for 2 days then it goes hard, and best of all its gold in color.
Never heard of brown stuff before! Is it a sort of miliput? I know those come in different colours and some people mix those two, but would be the first time I've heard of it as brown stuff.
@@bopisminiatures it's a green world stuff product. 2 part mix just like green stuff.
I see! I'll be sure to check it out :D
You could just as easily and for less expense use epoxy putty instead of green stuff.
I did that for some pieces, but thinner items (swords for instance) are not as flexible and break easier I've noticed. A mix of the two seems to work best, I suppose!
make a squad of men with it is it strong enough ?
You mean like an actual miniature to play with? I'd say yes. It would be tougher than most resins even.
Green stuff will be cured after a day, but it really hardens up after a while, making it even sturdier! That's why cleaning them up after 24 hours is also easier than once it's hardened all the way through.
I've tried making whole models from blue stuff and it's not really good for that sort of thing because you get too much flash or air bubbles. It's almost better to just sculpt the whole model yourself because you spend more time cleaning up the casting. The video does a good job of showing what you can use it for, which is making things that are only viewed from one side, like shields, shoulder pads, armor plates, etc.
You could try cutting pieces in half with a jeweler's saw so they're perfectly flat and flush so you can cast both sides separately, then glue them together, but I haven't tried that and it may be too difficult with smaller parts. Plus, you lose part of the original as you remove material when you cut (no matter how you cut it).
@@nekrataali that's correct! Iwanted to mention it in the video, but decided not to, because I did not want to promote recasting to people as it is frowned upon (rightfully so).
But you summed it up very nicely!
thats why you use milliput it hardens in 5 hours and is waaaaay cheaper
and softer while working with it
True, although I find greenstuff to be sturdier and captures the details better than miliput does
My blue stuff is actually blue. Where do you get the clear blue stuff?
It would be alot more useful being able to see how it fills.
I actually have no idea what happened haha
When I bought it, it was advertised as the regular blue bars that you normally get, but somehow I got the clear version.. I didn't mind as it works just as well, but for the sake of the video it did feel odd calling it 'blue' stuff when clearly it isn't haha
It's all the same thing, but the clear one is the "Instant Mold" brand, same thing in the end. The japanese Oyumaru can come in many colors. Or there's homemade alternatives too.
Green stuff too sticky? Use a small amount of hand lotion on your fingers. Makes using green stuff very easy.
That's good advice, I'll have to try it some time!
Using this technique since a few years. Advantages : ultra cheap, can get "official" symbols repetead as much as you want, the more molds you keep, the more variety you have. Disadvantages : it takes time, the details are less marked and clear and to copy a whole mini, it's not really worth it.
I definitely agree with you! Making entire models sure is tricky, and often not worth it as you have more chance ruining it and wasting green stuff that way in my opinion.
Also did not mention it in the video as I did not want people to try making full models, as it is frowned upon in the hobby and especially at tournaments for instance. I did not want to put that naughty idea in their minds haha
@@bopisminiatures Well, the idea about making your own models using this technique... is not wrong. It's totally close to use 3D models as proxy. But that's another debate.
I would say that they are alternative to the expensive green stuff. Most of the epoxy putties can get a similar result for way cheaper.
I mostly use this technique for copying detail on flat panels, like some computers, or symbols on shields. It works very good, as the base doesn't need to be as precise and incredible as the mini itself.
Good point with the 3D prints, although those are often not allowed on tournaments too, of course. I guess it depends for what purposes one wants to use them.
And definitely! For decorating purposes it sure works miracles IMO. Very user friendly and you can make as many molds as you like.
@@bopisminiatures Well, there are the official GW tournaments, where basically all that is not last edition GW products are banned (I really have difficulties with this) , but again, not really the topic here, and most of the other tournaments, which are far more permissive. As I paint the minis and not really play, I should say that I don't care that much.
Still, most of the Warhammer and Warhammer 40k are doing like I was playing many (many) years ago: among a few friends, not really caring if all stuck to the letter of the hobby or not.
And totally agree with the friendly, easy and quite fun part, using 3D prints parts, as well as self creations makes wonders. I like to use everything I have at my disposal, not preferring something particular, as long as it's fun and cheap.
@@klug5916 oh for sure! I mean I understand that GW would not allow 3rd party minis to be used, it is a business in the end, but for other tournaments, or especially with friends, no problem.
I've always been more of a collector and painter myself too. Used to play the Lotr game back in the day, but nobody around me plays it, nor do I really have the interest in it. Never been much for competitive games haha
But painting and building has always made my mind calm so I always kept doing it!
But....but its not blue!
That's how they get you.. you pay for blue, but get clear stuff! 😔
So basically "Recasting"
I use this method solely for (base) decorations and not to make profit or anything. That's also why I do not mention full figures, because I do not support the idea of recasting actual miniatures, nor want to give someone the idea.
Besides, a full mini would be obvious if recasted this way.
Throw away that blue stuff and just buy a resin printer.
Got one, but not everyone does and not all things have an .stl if it's something specific you want
stop biting your finger nails ....... dang how old you are ?
Funny thing is I stopped doing it a few months ago!
Stress is a mean lil' bitch.
just buy 3d printer...
Got one, both have their pros and cons.
just get a resin printer
I have one, but I can't print models or items that don't exist in .STL format. Also, not everyone can afford a resin printer and then this technique is very useful.
❤ used to love it before 3D printing became affordable and widespread.
Can definitely understand that, I think they both have their pros and cons!