Using Sprue GLUE to Better Assemble Models
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Okay, this is the last time I talk about sprue goo or sprue glue.
Do you like what I do and want to support my endeavors? Consider heading over to buymeacoffee.com/TableTopAckley and tossing a coin into the hat (I'll get this analogy figured out eventually.
Equipment and materials I used in this video (As an Amazon Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases):
- Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (amzn.to/3A51b9c)
- Army Painter Sculpting Tool
- Friskars Self Healing Cutting Mat (amzn.to/3EohjFo)
You can check out the full list of equipment I use at tabletopackley.com/equipment
Find links to my blog, Instagram, and more at linktr.ee/TableTopAckley.
#SprueGlue #Miniatures #HowTo
Chapters:
00:00 - Intro
00:26 - Last Time on TableTop Ackley
00:41 - The Victim
00:55 - A New Challenger Approaches
01:17 - Making the Things
01:38 - An Immediate Difference
02:32 - Are You Ready, Kids?!
03:07 - Getting on with It
03:41 - The Worst of Gaps
05:10 - So What's the Verdict?
05:43 - Retrospective
06:16 - Outro 
Хобби
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tamiya thin cement and tamiya airbrush cleaner is exactly the same liquid, but the airbrush cleaner works out to a third of the cost per volume. so you know. :)
Great tip!
Just buy some butyl acetate and some acetone and mix 50/50. There now its 10% of the cost.
Problem is you'll end up with a life's supply of glue but you can refill your friends' containers.
Juan Hidalgo dixit…
@@scikriif you have friends
Big props mate. Glad you were able to get it working out for ya. :D
If you start to run low on Extra Thin, the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is the same stuff, only a percent difference on their safety sheet. Juan Hidalgo has a vid showing the results if you'd like some evidence it won't jack up a mini. :P
I'll definitely check that out. And thanks again for your previous advice 😄
This is exactly what I use to make mine. I keep it in a Mr. Hobby spare paint jar and use old Testors nylon paint brushes to apply it.
This is a bit of a fad that comes around every few years. It started in the model air community, then showed up in the gunpla community, and now warhammer has found it, It certainly has some limited uses but allot of the time you don't need to go to this level of fuss, you just need to choose the correct plastic cement.
You generally get thick and thin cements. These are a mix of butyl acetate and acetone (the solvents) and a thickening agent which slows the evaporation rate of the solvent. The longer the solvent contacts the part the more melted plastic you get.
Regular Tamiya plastic cement is thicker, and evaporates at a much slower rate, This is designed to be painted on and is quite agressive. Once its had time to act you can again apply firm pressure to raise a bead, filling in the gap between parts.
Tamiya extra thin is designed to wick into the gap between parts. It's not designed to be painted onto the mating surfaces. Your supposed to press fit the parts and then touch the brush to the seam, allowing capiliary action to wick the glue along the seam. Once it has had time to react with the plastic you can firmly press the parts together to create a bead along the seam. This glue was designed to be used on smaller thinner parts where the slower acting more agressive glues would cause damage.
As your on this Journey the next thing you'll probably discover is that Tamiya Extra thin is just Acetone with Butyl Acetate in a 1:1 mix, Its essentially Tamiya airbrush cleaner in a smaller 10X more expensive bottle..
One of my go-to fillers for things like warhammer (where you have very small gaps) is Tamiya Liquid Primer. Its essentially a un-thinned surface primer. It has a consistency similar to thinned putty. Dip a tooth pick into the bottle and put a drip of it over your gap. Once it has dried it sands beautifully, and is great for filling seams.
Sprue goo bas been a thing in Warhammer for decades
This is all great and total news to me! I've been using the citadel plastic cement, but I do have the Tamiya as well. I hadn't considered that you're not supposed to but it on the surfaces before mating them! How much time do you let pass between when you paint the cement on and when you apply the pressure to get that raised bead you're describing?
I've been messing around with mlliput and sprue-glue and it's been a total headache. I don't mind the seams on my smaller troops but on the bigger ones it can be pretty brutal.
The Tamiya products are great to use. and tried and tested....however can be pricey to make the glue/goo with, an alternate (and pretty sure I just commented on your earlier video), is consider using cellulose thinners....get much more qty for the $$$$ outlayed.
Cheers from Sydney Aus!!!
helpful video :) thx
I have a suggestion on your glue and plastic to melt it. I used testers cement liquid and putty . Squadron putty green or white putty.Pour the putty a little at a time in the glue and stir them together to get the same thickness. You want a smooth like paste. And that's all you need. Good Luck.
Wow wow wow... wow
Referencing other channels is tight!
Super easy. Barely an inconvenience!
Awesome vid, what's the lifespan of that glue on the shelf?
I use Testors Liquid Cement with Brush Because it produces Thicker Putty Than Tamiya Extra thin. I buiid Model Cars so it Works fir Filling Seams ir Filling Voids or Kaminating Sorye Together ut Will Even Repair A Body thats been Stepped On to the point When Finished You Can't tell it Was Damaged
Try Lacquer thinner instead of acetone.............................................Or just use Tamiya regular thick cement.
Interesting. I have heard about the Sprue goo but never made any and not sure how long it takes. Something I have seen on an Asian channel " SUKIMA SANGYO " where he uses this white stuff to fill Gaps and holes and then uses this mini sander to smooth it all out. Seems like this method works better but I don't have a clue on what this white stuff is. He can move it to spots where he is able to shape and form it into something like a messed up finger and make it into a finger. Take a quick peek and see if you have seen this stuff before.
For the future: instead of Tamiya Super Thin Cement use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. The latter is nearly the same liquid as the former (49/51 split between butyl acetate and acetone instead of 50/50) but at a third of the price.
If you can get your hands on pure butyl acetate, it might even be cheaper to mix your own glue, as you already have acetone.
Edit: I should have read the comments before posting. All my points were already mentioned by others. 😅
Excellent video, with good explanations 👍👍👍 One idea: what about using OYUMARU (or "Blue Stutf") with sprue gooo? Would the "plastic acetone"-mix work with that or dissolve the Oyumaru??? Looking forward to you next video👍👍👍
This is something I've been wondering too
@@timothymartin5538 if I would have searched here....I would have found the video => it works👍
Look mum, i made it into a TableTop Ackley video
Who knows, it may just happen again!
tamiya thin and tamiya airbrush cleaner are the same product , theres just a 1% difference in the 2 chemicals that are in it , and the air brush cleaner is cheaper by volume.
if you just want to fill gaps , use super glue and baking soda
Any more videos in the works?
Yes, though life events have conspired against me, haha. Soon™️
Try Cellulose thinners
Interesting. I hadn't heard of that one before
You still don’t understand the use. The extra thin isn’t acetone alone. Without putting sprue in it, it will fuse plastic parts, melting the plastic and thus small gaps are filled. The reason you need a bottle with little left in it for real sprue goo, is that the ratio of plastic and Tamiya Extra Thin should be in favor of the plastic you put in it. There should be a little glue and a lot of sprue. That way you get a thin paste like solution that you’re able to build up on the model. It shrinks a little while drying, so put on slightly more than needed and sand flat afterwards. Sprue goo is a putty, not a glue type, in use.
Now if you want more filling of small gaps when using the glue alone, try Tamiya Extra Thin quick setting. It has an extra ingredient that not only makes the joint dry much quicker, but also melts more plastic when glueing. Put the two pieces together and apply glue to the joint. It will creep in between en fill it while pressing it together. You only need to press it for a short time, as is sets really fast.
Plastique?😳
Jman
Buddy you have to stop trying the acetone. It doesn't mix like MEK, or any of the other solvents cements do.
I agree. I'm moving away from it as I learn about more alternatives.
You could improve your Inprovements by improving them :)
No, i have nothing usefull to say but it should help your Video because youtube algorhytm