Next try the same method but with a metal shaper. The plastic isn't coming from the sprue, the glue on the model softened that plastic enough to be sculpted. I do this when working on customs when something is extremely rough and would take too much effort to properly patch or sand. Acetone + q tip on the rough plastic area it wont take long to melt it down enough to do a quick sanding.
I've seen thousands of hobby videos on RUclips and this is the first time I've heard of goo crayons to fill seams. Definitely going to try this on my Gunpla. This channel is gonna take off, just a matter of time!
You genius. Wonderful, simple technique. See a lot of posts indicating others that have used it but, even having a pot of sprue goo, I've never considered this means of sealing gaps. Thanks mate!
Good to know it’s not just me that likes this method 😆. I’ve been using it for a little while wanted it to be tried and tested before I shared it but definitely glad I have ☺️
Your results look nice, but I don't see why you scrap the seem with a piece of sprue, is the plastic glue supposed to dissolve the portion of the sprue that your scraping it with?
Hang on, the idea or using the sprue is to transfer the melted plastic from there and on the model to fill the gap with out mixing a bottle of sprue goo? If that makes sense?
Defo going to give this a try, just building an Awakened Wyldwood and the gaps were noticable , but getting a knife or whatever in to clean up after sprue goo would be hard in most of the places.
Might try this with recasting with Sprue-Goo, coating the cast with glue, then fill it in with the goo, assuming the cast doesn't get stuck to it, I might try this out... 🤔
Fair enough, tbh I didn’t know magic sculp was a thing till I read your comment and looked it up. I’ll order some soon and have a look 👍 personally I find this technique easy and handy as everything is to hand. But that’s the great thing about this hobby there’s so many ways to achieve similar outcomes and it’s great to hear of new ways from comments like this ☺️👍
Just tried it and encountered a number of issues. I was putting Tamiya into the gaps and taking a sprue to rub on it. The mix very quickly becomes uneven and ‘tacky’. It is leaving streaks and even strings behind. Am I doing something wrong? If you need more info lmk.
Hmm 🤔 maybe try putting glue on the sprue so kick start the reaction. And not sure why your getting strings honestly. You may need to use the glue to just flatten it out and then leave it to dry. Hope this helps if not get in touch and I’m sure we can square it away 👍
@@RIGMiniatures at first when I begin rubbing, it works very well and the sprue begins to melt. However, once that sprue begins to dry even the tinyest amount it causes it to be extremely sticky. Like some parts are half-solid. I was trying this on the back of a Screamer Killer. Right now the surface is very rough and all I can do at the moment is wait and see if it sands down good.
Hmm 🤔 ok well I’d leave it to dry an cure fully for now then once it’s done that it will sand down, I’m honestly not sure what’s causing the rest to happen as I’ve never experienced it myself. I’m sorry to hear that your getting these results as this is a technique that I use on only my models with gaps. Sounds like your doing everything right which is what’s boggling my mind
Sorry I can’t be much more help currently, but I’ll definitely give it a good think tomorrow reach out on instagram if you wanna share some photos or maybe a video of what’s happening and we can have a look together 👍
So I have a big 100mm mini. it's got a maybe pea sized (maybe a little smaller) perfect circle where the resin had a problem or something. (sadly it was purchased and they sent it to me that way). the surface is relatively flat where the hole is, any recommendations on how to plug it? its not super visible so if i can just get a flat plastic plug in there and welding all around it was what i was thinking
If you have milli putt or green stuff I would say that would be the best approach as once it’s dried it can be sand papered or filed away. I wouldn’t suggest sprue goo if the hole it pea sized and I’m guessing goes into the hollows of the model? In that case you’ll really have a fight on your hands. Unless you can get something behind the hole to make it a bowl, then use sprue goo and wait until it’s definitely (I’d give it 15hours +/-) dried before doing anything to it.
Thanks for sharing. What a great idea, was just wondering how best to fill-in panel lines. I'm doing a 2 door to 4 door conversion of a 1/25 '66 Impala. Lucky for me same length & wheel base on both hardtops, (unfortunately will loose that cool curve/angle from 2 door rear window) Hinging driver door (after all that hard work, I want to show off interior too) Hood comes hinged, but replacing 396 with 427 engine from the '66 chevy malibu ss stock car :) Again thanks
Why not simply use wall filler? Easy to thin down with water, dries in between 1 and 2 hours depending of how thin you've used it and then sand/file it down. Everywhere available and cheap as chips. No toxic chemicals, no cutting by accident into the plastic and you can even carve/cut some rudimentary detail into it later on.
I’ve used tamya extra thin, and revell plastic contact glue and it’s worked with those. If you have fast dying glue that ‘MAY’ (an uneducated guess 😅) be the issue but only at a guess. Hope this helps 👍
@@RIGMiniatures Yeah, they know a lot of tricks with plastic since they used the actual plastic as their finish instead of painting. Lots of fantastic tricks you can learn from them and tank modelers. Great stuff to watch and learn all around.
Honestly it’s ok ☺️ think this was one of the first videos I edited on a computer having never done it before and all videos prior I’d used the splice app on my phone 😅😅 even I cringe at how I did some things 😆
Next try the same method but with a metal shaper. The plastic isn't coming from the sprue, the glue on the model softened that plastic enough to be sculpted. I do this when working on customs when something is extremely rough and would take too much effort to properly patch or sand. Acetone + q tip on the rough plastic area it wont take long to melt it down enough to do a quick sanding.
Ah cool! Thanks for the information and advice 👍☺️ I’m definitely gonna give that a go as I think I have some acetone somewhere aswell 🤔👍
I've been doing this hobby for a long time and never thought to use sprue that way. Thanks for the Tip. I'll definitely try it on my next project.
Haha no worries 👍 glad to of helped 😉
I've seen thousands of hobby videos on RUclips and this is the first time I've heard of goo crayons to fill seams. Definitely going to try this on my Gunpla. This channel is gonna take off, just a matter of time!
😂 well I wasn’t sure what to call it 🤣. Hope it goes well with your Gunpla 👍 and thank you so much.
You genius. Wonderful, simple technique. See a lot of posts indicating others that have used it but, even having a pot of sprue goo, I've never considered this means of sealing gaps. Thanks mate!
😜 your very welcome buddy 👍
This is a technique I have used before. Thanks for putting it out there for others to use.
Good to know it’s not just me that likes this method 😆. I’ve been using it for a little while wanted it to be tried and tested before I shared it but definitely glad I have ☺️
I'm assembling Skitarii right now! Great advice.
I got you brother! 😆
Thanks for this, saves me getting spruegoo while trying to sort out my own Skitarii models :D.
No worries 😉 👍
This is a clever workaround for the seamwork
Thanks 👍
Your results look nice, but I don't see why you scrap the seem with a piece of sprue, is the plastic glue supposed to dissolve the portion of the sprue that your scraping it with?
That’s exactly what’s happening ☺️
*scrape
Hang on, the idea or using the sprue is to transfer the melted plastic from there and on the model to fill the gap with out mixing a bottle of sprue goo? If that makes sense?
Defo going to give this a try, just building an Awakened Wyldwood and the gaps were noticable , but getting a knife or whatever in to clean up after sprue goo would be hard in most of the places.
Well I’d definitely give this approach 👍👍 good luck with your build
Might try this with recasting with Sprue-Goo, coating the cast with glue, then fill it in with the goo, assuming the cast doesn't get stuck to it, I might try this out... 🤔
Let me know how it goes 😆👍
Totally unrelated to the sprue glue subject, what's the song that kicks off around 3:38? It's great.
I will get back to you 😅 it would of come from epidemic sounds tho. Watch this space
That's way too clumsy and messy. I recommend Magic Sculp and a drop of water to smooth it. Fine sand or scrape once cured (if needed).
Fair enough, tbh I didn’t know magic sculp was a thing till I read your comment and looked it up. I’ll order some soon and have a look 👍 personally I find this technique easy and handy as everything is to hand. But that’s the great thing about this hobby there’s so many ways to achieve similar outcomes and it’s great to hear of new ways from comments like this ☺️👍
Fantastic idea. Thanks very much for sharing. I would have never of thought of that. Cheers buddy 👍🏻
No worries
Just WOW! Thanks very much for sharing!!
☺️ no worries, hope it helps
This seems like I very useful tip , I would never have thought of this👍
Glad to be of service 😉👍
Just tried it and encountered a number of issues. I was putting Tamiya into the gaps and taking a sprue to rub on it. The mix very quickly becomes uneven and ‘tacky’. It is leaving streaks and even strings behind. Am I doing something wrong? If you need more info lmk.
Hmm 🤔 maybe try putting glue on the sprue so kick start the reaction. And not sure why your getting strings honestly. You may need to use the glue to just flatten it out and then leave it to dry. Hope this helps if not get in touch and I’m sure we can square it away 👍
@@RIGMiniatures at first when I begin rubbing, it works very well and the sprue begins to melt. However, once that sprue begins to dry even the tinyest amount it causes it to be extremely sticky. Like some parts are half-solid. I was trying this on the back of a Screamer Killer. Right now the surface is very rough and all I can do at the moment is wait and see if it sands down good.
Also, I did try putting the glue on the sprue first and ended up with the same result.
Hmm 🤔 ok well I’d leave it to dry an cure fully for now then once it’s done that it will sand down, I’m honestly not sure what’s causing the rest to happen as I’ve never experienced it myself. I’m sorry to hear that your getting these results as this is a technique that I use on only my models with gaps. Sounds like your doing everything right which is what’s boggling my mind
Sorry I can’t be much more help currently, but I’ll definitely give it a good think tomorrow reach out on instagram if you wanna share some photos or maybe a video of what’s happening and we can have a look together 👍
So I have a big 100mm mini. it's got a maybe pea sized (maybe a little smaller) perfect circle where the resin had a problem or something. (sadly it was purchased and they sent it to me that way). the surface is relatively flat where the hole is, any recommendations on how to plug it? its not super visible so if i can just get a flat plastic plug in there and welding all around it was what i was thinking
If you have milli putt or green stuff I would say that would be the best approach as once it’s dried it can be sand papered or filed away. I wouldn’t suggest sprue goo if the hole it pea sized and I’m guessing goes into the hollows of the model? In that case you’ll really have a fight on your hands. Unless you can get something behind the hole to make it a bowl, then use sprue goo and wait until it’s definitely (I’d give it 15hours +/-) dried before doing anything to it.
@@RIGMiniatures Thank you, yeah it goes into the hollow, but I think i can get it. Okay I do have milliput I will see how it goes!
@s7r49 all the luck buddy
@@RIGMiniatures Thanks guy!
Thanks for sharing. What a great idea, was just wondering how best to fill-in panel lines. I'm doing a 2 door to 4 door conversion of a 1/25 '66 Impala. Lucky for me same length & wheel base on both hardtops, (unfortunately will loose that cool curve/angle from 2 door rear window) Hinging driver door (after all that hard work, I want to show off interior too) Hood comes hinged, but replacing 396 with 427 engine from the '66 chevy malibu ss stock car :) Again thanks
Wow that sounds like a really cool build your doing 😄, hope this method served you well in your build 😊
Thanks Take care
Killer soundtrack!
Seems very handy.
👍
Why not simply use wall filler? Easy to thin down with water, dries in between 1 and 2 hours depending of how thin you've used it and then sand/file it down. Everywhere available and cheap as chips. No toxic chemicals, no cutting by accident into the plastic and you can even carve/cut some rudimentary detail into it later on.
Well I wasn’t aware this was a thing until reading your comment 🤣 I might have to give this a go 👍👍
Very interesting idea.
Thanks ☺️
What glue do you use?? tried with army painter plastic glue, but it seems to dry to fast for the sprue to melt into the line.
I’ve used tamya extra thin, and revell plastic contact glue and it’s worked with those. If you have fast dying glue that ‘MAY’ (an uneducated guess 😅) be the issue but only at a guess.
Hope this helps 👍
@@RIGMiniatures So i guess, Tamya to assemble and revell+smearing sprue to clear the seam?
Pretty much
Thanks man! Great video
No worries thank you for your comment 😊
thank you sir
Thanks a lot for this tip!
Your welcome ☺️
Nice idea.
Thanks 😊
Sprue goo is awesome stuff =)
It certainly is 😝
I'm working on the same model... soooo frustrating...
They are unnecessarily fiddly! 🤪😅
Thanks for the useful tip, but the music in the background makes it very hard to hear you.
Yeah almost every comment has told me 😅 this video was the first one edited on a computer and not my phone for once so…. I’m better now 🤣🤣
Nice goo rig 😎
Thanks mate 👍
Interesting!!! I like it!
Thanks mate 👍👍😆
This is called plastic welding and the Gunpla community does this.
I’ll have to look into gunpla then 👍
@@RIGMiniatures Yeah, they know a lot of tricks with plastic since they used the actual plastic as their finish instead of painting. Lots of fantastic tricks you can learn from them and tank modelers. Great stuff to watch and learn all around.
@h347h anyone you’d recommend? Or just go wild have fun?
@RIGMiniatures let me look around tomorrow. Currently drinking and assembling my Knights of the Realm from the Old World box set.
Handy! Saves faffing about making and storing the goo! Now to go rub my crayon on a wet crack and fill it in!
🤣🤣🤣
Yeaaah I am 1,000rh subscriber.
Wooooo 🥳 🎉 🎉 thanks matey 👍👍👍🤙🤙🤙🤙😝
Thats genius
Certainly is a time saver and personally I believe it can have a better finish ☺️👍
The music in the beginning is a bit too loud homie :)
Yep…. I’ve been told 😅
Jesus, that background music was really annoying! WHY!?
First time editing on a computer 😅 sorry I’m better now 😅
Only my opinion but had to switch off not far into the vid. Muzak overly horrible.
No worries don’t worry I’m better at editing these days 🤣🤣
@@RIGMiniatures. Apologise for moaning. Appreciate your modelling advice.
Honestly it’s ok ☺️ think this was one of the first videos I edited on a computer having never done it before and all videos prior I’d used the splice app on my phone 😅😅 even I cringe at how I did some things 😆