Upgrading My Magnetization with Sprue Goo!
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- Опубликовано: 3 авг 2024
- Sprue goo may not be pretty, but now that I've seen how easy it is to make and work with, I'm going to make sure I always have some on hand.
In this video, I cover how to make sprue goo and demonstrate its use in magnetizing the arms of the Cadian Shock Troops upgrade sprue.
If you like what I do and what to support me, you could consider heading over to www.buymeacoffee.com/tabletop... and leaving me a tip.
Materials and tools used in this video (Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases):
- Cadian Shock Troops 2021 kit (amzn.to/3H5i5X6)
- Fine Plastic Cutters (amzn.to/3BNkOkj)
- Hobby Drill (amzn.to/3nVFi5y)
Follow me on Instagram @tabletopackley. You can more content from me on my website at tabletopackley.com/.
#Warhammer40K #HowTo #SprueGoo
Chapters:
00:00 - So What's the Problem?
00:29 - Prepare for the Goo!
01:11 - The Process
01:51 - 2 Hours of Melting... Green Acetone?
02:30 - Sprue Goo After 24 Hours
03:10 - The Fill: Dentists Say This is Fake
04:08 - Why am I Sticking with Sprue Goo? 
Хобби
It's been pointed out that you should probably wear a ventilator mask and work in a well ventilated space when working with acetone of this strength. According to hazard.com//msds/mf/baker/baker/files/a0446.htm, prolonged exposure can cause "coughing, dizziness, dullness, and headache." If you experience any of this, take a break and let your work space air out. It should go without saying that you shouldn't drink this stuff (these containers have warning labels, people). I missed this in my initial safety research and will strive to do better in the future. That said, acetone is regarded to be safe to handle with proper precautions. Stay safe, everyone! 😷
I also want to add, don't ever let someone give you a hard time for practicing proper safety. I have no problem removing these sorts of comments as they are toxic and add nothing to the conversation.
As solvants go acetone is pretty harmless as long as you take some reasonable precautions, it's not toxic waste or anything. Acetone only becomes a health risk if you are using it daily like in a nail salon. It breaks down into methane and ethane in a couple weeks and it's naturally occurring in small amounts in plants and animals as a byproduct of metabolism (you excrete naturally produced acetone in your urine). Also a typical ventilator as you would use for e.g. aerosol paints or cutting fiberglass or CF won't do anything because acetone doesn't aerosolize it evaporates into a gaseous state and will go right through it.
@@TableTopAckley there’s a big difference between actual safe practice and spruiking safe practice in the name of covering your arse against naturally stupid humans. Stick with your safe practice, mate, and don’t waste your time with the truly unnecessary over cautious safety messages. It really should be suffice to say practice safety, rather than spell out in excruciating detail every step made. Treat your audience with respect for intelligence; if not actually for intelligence, then for literacy ( altho I understand it’s a different concept in America) . Warning labels exist. That should be enough. Otherwise, let natural selection sort out the wheat from the chaff.
Great video, its good to see sprue goo being used by others, it really is awesome =)
Happy to spread the good word!
love your show dude
@@TableTopAckley you mean the goo word?
Damn, that's goo.
@@TableTopAckley lol
FINALLY, a Warhammer RUclipsr that wears gloves when they handle acetone
Acetone is great for cleaning hands, and removing lipids!
Women literally put it all over their fingernails all the time. Though yeah its bad for you.
@@Saktoth this acetone he uses will eventually have you feeling a little weird. Gloves are a great call here.
Some of us just dont see much of a problem (aka we dumb af) i.e. i handle paint thinners without gloves because i was never taught not to and getting gloves it doesnt seep through is kinda hard ngl
@@AlexWithington Yeah I kinda get that, I stopped using gloves with resin and my 3d printer because I was good at not getting it on me but I don't fuck with acetone, might just have been how I was taught but I just don't
I am surprised by how many of table top hobbyists do not know this technique. Previously spruegoo was made with Tamiya Extra thin, i use it as an alternative to plastic cement as it glues and fills gaps at the same time.
Tabletop modeling has a lot to learn from scale modeling when it comes to techniques and materials.
I'm glad it's not just me who thinks that, I was watching Squidmar paint that thunderhawk and he's free-handing chevrons, I'm shouting at the screen "MASKING TAPE YOU AMATEUR!" :-)
Then you'll love my most recent video where I badly freehand some hazard stripes because I hate myself!
Of course I make no claims to be anything other than an amateur.
As stated before, about 1/4 to 1/5th of the remaining jar of the Tamiya "green cap" glue, just load in some cut sprue, works nice and an already known container proof against the solvent. I too applaud the safety measures taken.
This is the way
Use tamiya air brush cleaner for refills. Pretty much the same as the glue, but it's sold for less.
An alternative to acetone is using liquid plastic cement on cut up sprues (GUNPLA modeler's keep aftermarket glass paint jars with each color of sprue goo for their projects for this purpose). While the plastic cement method of melting sprues takes longer, it can be somewhat safer. I apply with a natural fiber brush so I can clean my brush in the acetone without worrying about the brush melting. However, it will break down the glue in the ferrel of the brush, so use an old paint brush that is past its service life. Most aftermarket glass paint jars have a seal that is unlikely to be compromised by acetone vapor, and there are plastic containers (mostly for foods) that won't melt with acetone. Obviously, you will want to test a container before using, and never put food in it again (less because of the acetone, more because of the plastic breaking down from contact with the chemical...). My experience with acetone in smoothing 3D prints has shown me that there are quite a few plastics that don't react to the acetone like PLA, and whatever they use to make refillable paint pens (which are great for applying small amounts of acetone to an area needing smooting or paint removed). ABS, styrene (sprue plastics) however love to melt, making chemical welding quite feasible for assembly, gap filling, and some modifucations like smoothing.
Tamiya super thin brush on glue, a lot of people use this because it is a plastic welder with excellent capillary action. Once you use about 1/3 of the bottle just get a new one and start dropping bits of sprue into the old one. Whalaa, sprue goo, with a brush on applicator.
Also, I have never noticed this stuff being "porous", but I only use it for gap filling, which it excels at.
Absolutely this method, completely unbeatable with none of the drawbacks of acetone based.
... "Whalaa"? Seriously?
@@vindik8or bone apple teeth.
We all knew what he meant, and calling out the mistake is not useful unless you also provide the correction (Voilà). Let's try to be helpful to each other.
to prevent the amount of bubbles you had: put the stuff you want to use onto baking paper and roll it out then take what you need off of it with a scalpel and use it. what you don't need you just throw just back into your jar
I needed model putty about about 40 years ago and had none. It was a holiday, everything was closed and I did not want to wait until the next day to work on my model. So I theorized that shaving some sprue with a heavy exacto blade and adding some Testors model cement from a tube would melt it into a thick plastic putty. I did it, and it worked. I kept the unused shavings in a "Cafe au Lait" tin with a lid. Now that I think of it... I wonder what the hell ever happened to that thing? If I ever needed putty quick and I had none, this was my technique. And you call essentially the same technique "Sprue Goo". Then that's what I'm calling my substance from now on. Great vid.
Acetone melted "sprue goo" has all sorts of drawbacks, but rubber cement style is glorious. Absolute game changer when it comes to assembly and gap filling
Evergreen sheet styrene cut into small sheets added to Tamiya extra thin, the best recipe IMHO
Quality is top notch. Keep ‘em coming
I think a simple solution is to mix small amounts of sprue goo in an empty Tamiya thin cement bottle. That way you have a brush already in the jar.
If you use tamiya plastic cement, hold on to an empty bottle. Then buy tamiya air brush cleaner (which is pretty much the same as the plastic cement). Put aprue in empty cement bottle, then some of the cleaner. Now you can more easily use this sprue goo to cover up gaps in models.
The reason the first batch turned yellow is because you used dusty dirty sprues and the second batch was cleaner sprues.
Assembled and magnetized my first 40k model a couple hours ago. Thx for all the tips
This was great, I will certainly be given this a try.
ooey gooey spruey stuff!
Use tamiya thin glue bottle when it’s half way then buy a new one and add the sprue bits to the half bottle of glue and it’s solvent proof container
This is the way
When I first learned the trick, it was as "Tamiya Extra Thick Plastic Glue."
I'm preparing my Forbidden Sprinkles for a similar transition. Thought it was going to be a lot more complicated than just that. How long does it last? My worry is that it solidifies permanently and then all you've got is a solid plastic cube in a bottle.
@@draketheduelist never know one to go solid as long as you have glue in it and lid on it ok from what I’ve see some people add plastic weld to there’s as well to quicken up the process. You just keep adding bits of sprue or small plastic bits to the glue
I'm glad you liked the idea. It does seem like you really need to pack it down, or even partially let it set before using it, to avoid those air bubbles. But I bet it ahears really well.
if only he had one of those vacuum chambers to suck the excess air out of the goo.
Welcome to what we in the Gundam community have known for years. We have a great many other lessons the minis community can learn.
I hope for some Warhammer Gunplas from Bandai, Imperial Knight Master Grade or Dreadnoughts.
I'd attribute this to my personal ignorance than that of the mini community as a whole. I'm pretty sure there's quite some overlap.
@@Mad.player I made a Gargbot out of a Gundam. If ever someone is weeping about the prices of GW I tell them to go buy Gunplas as a proxy.
Loved the vid!
I've made Sprue Goo for decades and have filled everything except my own dental work. Acetone is an ideal emulsifier, but if you use too much your Goo will be runny and too "hot. " it won't cure correctly and may melt the host plastic. I use Tamiya Quick Drying Glue as my emulsifier and it acts as an ideal gap-filling adhesive.
Yeah, I've heard nothing but good things about Tamiya. It's definitely on the list.
Top quality production on the video. Awesome job. I'm working on some guardsman myself, so this may come in handy if some magnets holes don't line up right.
Thank you, it means a lot. I spent a lot of time trying to improve over my previous videos. I hope the content proves useful to you!
I feel like this is the future of my kit bashing.
I know it as sprue glue. I use the orange tube of testors glue to make it usually since it's cheaper than other plastic cements. Never used acetone and don't think it would be as good.
Scale modelers have been doing this for decades.
Sprue Goo aka dissolved ABS. The process is also known as chemical welding as the solvent will dissolve into the base material and allows mixing of the "filler". One major use of this technique is welding PMMA plastic together, with special "glue" that is essentially clear PMMA plastic dissolved in the solvent. One downside of chemical welding is you will never get all of the solvent out.
LOL Been Using Testors Liquid Cement with Brush to Make it For 4 Years Now Its Great Stuff I'm 61 wished I'd know. About it For use on Model Cars as a Teenager
I think either way is fine. Half the comments on this video are telling me to try it that way, haha.
After messing with this stuff quite a lot, it's the leftover acetone in the goo that is creating the bubbles. Small applications of well-smoothed-out coats set mutch harder.
Great tip, it came right on time for a project I am working on! than you!
Looks good pal
sprue glue works a little better with tamiya extra thin cement I say this as its already a glue in its self and it atleast for me has worked better than the acetone it tends not to separate as much and also is easier in my experience to make thinner or thicker.... May cost a little more than acetone though but we'll worth it in my opinion
This is why the various model hobbyists NEED to keep up with each other on their methods and techniques and not dismiss anything. Everyone has different techniques that fit their specific hobby that may be transfered over.
In this case Sprue Goo is a BIG part of the Gunpla(Gundam kits) and similar precolored model community. This is a key reason why it was more popular and well known in Gunpla then in normal scale model or even wargaming communities. There is less of a need to make a cement putty the same color as the plastic when everything is the same grey color that is getting painted over anyway.
In the Gunpla community we use sprue goo to do things like fix up nasty nub pits, overly bad gaps(rare in Gunpla), or especially for customizing and you do not really want to repaint everything but just want to do a simple top coat and panel line afterwards. When you do the sprue goo right and with some sanding and filing, you will find it impossible to see where the sprue goo was even unpainted.
HOWEVER, I HAVE A MASSIVE BIG IMPORTANT WARNING AND TIP THAT MUST BE FOLLOWED when using sprue goo like this. You MUST MUST MUUUUST use a pure thin cement, you want it to be 100% solvent ideally. Cements use a clear or white styrene filler to help thicken them up to different consistencies for different kinds of jobs. This filler WILL discolor the sprue goo. So you need the pure extra thin stuff.
I've been really curious about the health risks, it was good to hear that acetone isn't a carcinogen.
You make small amounts of acetone in your body as a byproduct and excrete it in your urine so I would certainly hope not.
Subbed today.
Great stuff dude, keep it up.
Great video dude :)
Thanks! I appreciate it. Funny enough I was just watching your Octarius Bases video!
Before i got into 40K i built a lot of gundam models. Kinda surprised not many knew about this but i use plastruct to melt mine. (Acetone will be cheaper just so everyone knows)
Yes I use the spur on my Age of sigmar to put them together and get rid of the seems I use their gold sprues so its perfect.
Gold sprue goo sounds like it would be fun to have around.
ive seen gunpla builders use their own kind of sprugoo for years, using tamiya cement to melt it down. pretty much the exact same process. interesting that it works with GW stuff as well.
I have a bottle of sprue goo under my desk that has bright pink liquid from the red primer on some of the sprues that went in
For storage you can use HDPE plastic containers (look for the 2 in the recycling symbol), and the dollar store will usually have them in quart to gallon sized jar like form factors for, well, a dollar.
You can also find acetone in the dollar store if you look at their nail polish remover. Hey the kind with the black cap that says 100% acetone. Usually comes in a 6-8oz bottle for a buck.... Which is $16-21/gal... Not a great deal but if you only need a bottle or two it's not bad
This also works amazingly on styrofoam and even if you don't use the goo if you pour it out and let it harden into plastic you can either recycle it or at least sleep easier knowing it's taking up like 0.1% as much landfill space as it would have
I saw you use magnest to fix arms & co. Try instrad to use a single magnet inside the torso and a little nail intk the shoulder. So you have the magnetic joint and the friction of the material. I tried on vanguard veterans space marines (with some variants).
Oh thats a super nice idea. So you need only half of the magnets. They arent expensive but nonetheless I will try that to. Thanks a lot
may the sprue be with you, also the discoloration is normally because of dye or other additives and Miniature Hobbyist has said it's not a problem some of his acetone is just brown doesn't affect the end result cept if your worried about resin discoloration then just transfere the old acetone to a another jar and top it off with fresh (use the old for areas that your not worried about)
Minature Hobbyist is the Best i love it and i subbed to you
Interestingly, I use acetone and styrofoam to stabilize turquoise. Acetone is a great material to melt a lot of different plastics it seems.
I make it with sprue pieces and tamiya quick type cement. It works great for mold lines!
I've seen this recommendation a few times now. Guess I need to try it!
@@TableTopAckley I’ve had mixed results. One batch came out really good but my resent batch stayed a little soft. When you go to sand it, it kind of rolls instead of smoothing down. Idk if there is a proper ratio to follow or what. I use it for building gunpla so the ability to fill in seam lines is priceless!
I'd be curious if you could get the ratio to a point where you could sculpt with goo? At any rate this is a great use for leftover sprues, which always feel like a waste going in the bin...il have to give this a go.
The lid should have been fine if it was metal, there must have been contaminants of plastics on the interior lining. And the jar should be safe to store as long you don't allow it to get hot or agitated.
Also don't pour it down your drain! It will melt your pipes! Dispose of it in a sealed container that won't melt and put it in the garbage.
Great delivery and production style mate. Subbed!
Very good point about disposal! As for the lid, it was all metal except for that lining, which was some sort of rubber. I meant only to refer to that seal, but referenced the lid as a whole. Whoops.
The acetone isn't "eating through the lid" of the mason jar. It's just dissolving the seal on the lid.
Eating through is an idiom for dissolving in this case. I see I wasn't clear enough that I was referring to the seal specifically, I'll try to be more concise in the future.
@@TableTopAckley beautiful response. Good video btw, gl in your miniature adventures.
Thanks for bringing to my attention that I wasn't clear. I need that sort of feedback if I'm going to continue improving.
I wonder if that green tint could be the seal of the mason jar melting into the acetone
uhmmm this is how i used to make home made napalm . this burns really well .
So you're saying it's multi-purpose?
@@TableTopAckley I suppose you could say that , maybe not 100% legal , but defiantly multi purpose
I've used it to make some plastic sheet, and i'm building a steamtank, i've used it also to make some bases, but the curved cuts are not the easiest thing to do with 4 mm thick plastic
IMO the green is likely a small remanent of the chemical process but due to the larger amount of acetone in the 2nd batch it would be far more diluted. Really just a guess.
I find tamika extra thin is awesome for making my spruce goo.
Tamiya not tamika poxy pretext.
You should also try MEK (or it's substitute) more potent and works even faster.
Great idea but I am allergic to acetone .........
cue the less toxic .. 'limonene' which is citric acid made from orange peel, it works just like plastic glue and Tamiya make it and I buy it in 1 litre cans in Spain from amazon.
I wasn't aware acetone allergy was a thing. Sorry to hear that, but glad to hear there are plenty of alternatives.
Tamiya quick setting glue with a few spruce bits is better (in my humble opinion) and it also sorts out the problem of the container being resistant to the contents… it’s also helpful if the consistency of the mix is fluid enough to be used with the tiny brush in the lid of the Tamiya glue. This method also negates the need for special gloves too…
Tamiya Extra Thin works better for sprue goo solvent. It’s expensive but go ahead and get Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner which is essentially the same thing but in a bigger container at around the same price
theres a new thing out there , some dude has taken sprues and made a basic 3d print resin outer sprues, its early days but dam exciting
That sounds really cool. Do you have a link for this?
@@TableTopAckley saw it while scrolling on tiktok
@@TableTopAckley trust me I've been looking for it . The dude isn't fully there made some basic stuff .but it's a start
Thanks for the heads up regardless. Now I know to keep my eyes peeled.
"... You should wear gloves as acetone is skin irritat..." Me who proceeds to wash hands in acetone
User excelite_x over on reddit let me know that the cured sprue goo was porous because of the acetone's evaporation, which makes sense to me. I think in this case layer on the acetone is definitely the way to go, as each new layer will fill in the pores of the previous layer.
Also, I didn't mention this in the video (and wish I had), but the sprue goo is very stringy, like melted mozzarella, so be vigilant while working with it!
If you need the good to cure less porous you need to apply pressure while it cures. Use blue stuff f ex, as it allows you to form the perfect shape to press on the object and the goo does not cling to it as much. There will still be pores weak points thought, and one might use green stuff to fill the small holes if necessary.
how about just a drop of resin and a UV flashlight?
The results on miniature hobbyst always have the ocasional bubble or two as well, so it's perfectly normal.
Very nice of you to put the chemical chart for glove material and the warnings. Acetone is a very harsh sustance.... yet it's so practical.
Also bear in mind that if you ever have colored sprues (from ultramarines, or age of sigmar, etc.) the goo will in fact be colored! ;)
@@vvsandgaming4648 Wow. Never tried that.
No what's happening is called solvent pop. It's the exact same as laying down a thick layer of thinned paint.
I wouldn't bother using gloves for acetone in the lab as a chemist. The acetone will diffuse through the glove(even butyl ones) and get trapped between the glove and your skin, meaning that what was a 2 minute contact becomes a 10+ min (however long the gloves are worn) contact as the acetone has nowhere to go and can't evaporate off anywhere near as fast.
Well ventilated space and safety specs are a good idea though.
This is what the gunpla community's been up to for years lol
I'm sure the mini community has known as well, just not me, haha.
My guesses would be oxidation or some type of reaction with the lid. Since that seemed to be the only difference. Unless you used a different set of pieces to melt down.
The second jar never discolored, so I don't think it's the lid. I did use different plastic sets, so that's a possibility, though it's all Games Workshop plastic.
you can also get metal mason jar lids.
This is exactly the same way people who 3d prints make “glue/goo” to stick parts together or help the print stick to the printing platform. But I gotta admit I have been lax with some safety precautions. I may have gotten light headed a few time sticking parts together.
Mine acetone went green too, I thought it had something to do with the green sprue I had put in the jar to melt.
That could be why yours went green. Someone else commented about red plastic coloring theirs red.
For stuff like this I use steel stick, it drys in 5 minutes and is slightly magnetic already
Thanks for the info. Adding it to the list of things I need to look into.
@@TableTopAckley steelstik by J-B weld
👍👍👍
You can use reg thin glue also.
hi so i make my own minis using pla and sometimes i have ones that turn out "funny" can i use them to make sprue goo since its pla and not just plastic?
I use that for years but I make it with plastic cement and never had those air bubbles in it.
Yeah, based on other comments its a result of the acetone evaporating.
the yellow tinge is probably coming from the acetone eating away at the jar seal.
Didn't see if this was already mentioned, but could you not just fill with sprue goo and then instead of waiting for it to dry and drill, why not just put in the magnet while it was still wet and to keep the surface smooth, overlay some wax paper over the magnet in goo and use a small plastic clamp to keep it from spreading out and avoid any unnecessary sanding/cleanup?
That's certainly worth trying. I think my main concern with this would be the sprue goo making a mess as you pressed in the magnet, but with proper precautions it can probably be controlled just fine.
Sprugoo!!
Try Tamiya cement plus Tamiya white putty. Much faster process. No need for acetone. Mask up.
I have seen another version of sprue goo where they melted the sprues into a jar of Tamiya Extra Thin Glue instead of Acetone. I wonder what the differences between the two methods would be?
Tamiya Extra Thin Glue composition is 50% acetone, so less strong and harmful. Do you want to save some money? Use Tamiya airbrush cleaner instead, it is exactly the same product but with different label (and cheaper). You can check the datasheets :)
Interesting, I wonder if sprue goo could be used in place of milliput/Greenstuff for recasting bits with blue stuff or oyumaru?
Somebody posted a video of casting wheels for an Ork Trukk, it came out with lots of bubble holes. I use a mixture of green stuff and milliput for blue stuff casting.
@@karltriebel4262 same, just wondering if I can repurpose my sprues for something like bits. Good to know!
@@benjamingaddy1278 it’s certainly worth giving it a go, free material after all!
No I am curious if this will work with Reaper's Bones material.
Acetone eats through a lot, so there's a very good chance it will.
689 subs!? Make that 690!
Nice advice, worth a try. SDLY
Use liquid cement rather than acetone. Humbrol liquid poly,Tamiya extra thin or Mr Cement S work really well and are considerably less dangerous than acetone.
How does this compare to the liquid green stuff?
Afraid I haven't tried liquid green stuff. One more thing to add to the list.
for this kinda application. prob would be better off with the plastic cement. mixing sprue flake into it. just to make a slightly goopy cement glue.
the porous nature of the sprue goo is most likely the acetone evaporating out of the plastic as it cured.
I'm curious, how long can you store this? Is it "make and use or else," or is it basically indefinite storage?
With proper storage it should be relatively shelf stable.
Do yourself an enormous favor and just add the sprue bits of choice to a bottle of Tamiya extra thin. Same process, a hell of a lot less mess and is mixing melted sprue with thinned glue...dries rock solid and can be molded and sanded.
Definitely ordering some Tamiya extra thin soon!
So if kept in a non corrodable container would this stuff just last to pull out at any time.
That's my understanding.
I'm trying to spue goo with diamond painting stones. No idea if I'll find a way for it to work. Do you keep the jar closed? I didn't have a jar I could close and nothing happened ^-^
The acetone will evaporate if you don't have a way to seal it up.
@@TableTopAckley I had put a latex glove over it, but that hadn't helped sufficient. Thanks for the answer I'll go get me a proper jar today ^-"^
Are you saying you're trying to make the goo using diamond painting drills?
Is goo also useful for sculpting? By looking at this video I’d say no as it looks too soft, but I might be wrong
I saw elsewhere someone using it to sculpt, squeezing out as much of the acetone out and even letting it cure for a short time before working with it. I have no experience here, but I would also lean towards it not being as easy as other materials. Molds, on the other hand, seem like they would pair very well.
Wouldn’t the acetone in the goo burn the plastic you’re applying it too?
Yes, that's how it manages such a strong bond. But since it is not submerged at that point the melting is limited.
I think it's worth the little tiny bit of effort to make this stuff.
What types of plastic does this work with? I'd love to use this to melt down some old 3d prints of mine, but I don't know what type of plastic these sprues are compared to the tpu or pla I use for printing. Anyone know?
The better question is what kind of 3D printer did you use? If it's a FDM type of 3D printer... then it will most likely be useable, but run some sample tests first. If you're prints are from a SLA type of 3D printer... then No. This is due to SLA printers using photo reactive resins.
Sprue goo is polystyrene(aka plastic) plus solvent and hence will only really work on other items of polystyrene. It will not work with resin.
@@Winterydee I did say I use PLA and TPU, both of which are plastic FDM filaments, and neither of which are polystyrene from what I gather, so would this still work?
@@TheMorbidHobo - Most plastic model kits use a polystyrene for the injection moulding process.
However from my limited searches about TPU and PLA... they will not properly work with plastic cement/glue. Due to that it is doubtful that sprue goo would work with them nor could they be used for creating sprue goo from them.
@@Winterydee appreciate that info, thanks.
And now I am kicking myself for tossing a shload of old sprues a couple years back...
It's not like the pile isn't going to grow again, haha. Personally, I'm doing my best to put all my excess plastic to use.
What sized magnets are used on the arm?
2mm x 1mm discs.
How long does the sprue goo remain in its current state in the jar?
My understanding is with proper storage it's essentially shelf stable.
How long does the sprue goo in the jar last for?
In a proper container with a proper seal it could last for years.
Green stuff (or other, cheaper, putty) will cure without being exposed to air, spruee goo won't will it?
I'm really surprised people dont know about sprue goo. This has been a thing FOREVER.
Well to be fair, I'm not all people. Something something XKCD I was one of today's 10000.
Vallejo plastic putty is water soluble and very easy to work with. Dries quickly, but it can be rubbed of with alcohol (of so I heard). f you are someone who dislike the harder chemicals it might be the product for you.
Does this work with resin or just plastic?
I don't believe it works with resin, but that's based on just a brief search, so don't take that for gospel.
wouldn't it be easier to use some 3d pen ? i use one from time to time to glue printed parts together, or, use a soldering iron replacing the tip with hand made one , melting and forming the original plastic.
Maybe, though this is the first I've heard of 3d pens. If you already have one, I say use it, but I also don't consider the sprue goo method to be difficult by any means. I think the real strength of the sprue goo is in the minimal cost and utilization of plastic that would otherwise be trash.
@@TableTopAckley i use plenty of methods to fix/patch things up, but yeah the goo method seems the best way from that point to re-use/recycle the old Plastic meshes instead of throwing it away