I used to think that a Harvard degree guaranteed someone was smart, until I was proven wrong a few times, but it usually does indicate they have self discipline and a good work ethic and are knowledgeable, and many are indeed wicked smart, but a few at least, are definitely not what anyone should be calling smart (unless they are even less intelligent themselves) but that doesn’t mean they aren’t knowledgeable or hard working. Goobertown is smart, hard working, and a great content creator!
You inadvertently made one of the best magnetizing wargaming figures tutorial in one of your yellow Chaos painting videos. The idea of securing magnets to a base with the help of green stuff has been a lifechanger. Now, whenever I have leftover putty after sculpting, I dip into my glass display cabinets, and secure the older magnets on my figures better with a ring of putty. Thanks for the great content!
For 3d printed resin bases, it's actually quite easy to punch a magnet hole in the base. In lychee or chitubox, the hollowing feature can put holes in miniatures for drain holes; upsize that hole to the width and depth of your magnet, and it works like a charm. It only takes a couple seconds to punch the hole in the base, so my entire build plate can be done in 30 seconds.
@@GoobertownHobbies Magnetic Paper/Film, some glue (the adhesive on the paper isn't very strong), and a scissors/hobby knife to cut the magnet paper to size also works pretty well (and works for regular bases too, but not nearly as strong as neodymium magnets, so metal models on regular or resin bases doesn't really work).
@@tom-m-29 I have a 1 inch circluar punch for doing exactly that. Works great for most person and smaller size resin models and holds well to steel plate.
This this this. even if I am not magnetizing, I am punching holes in the bottom of all my bases as a future proof. I found better results of doing this in lychee compared to chitubox :)
Quick tip for those who want to cut their own sheet steel but have never done so be careful with the edges or wear gloves. Cutting sheet metal, especially steel, with snips like that can leave really sharp and jagged edges that will easily go through skin running over them with a file quickly can remove those burred edges. I can't count the number of times at work a tiny slip on an edge has caused me to release red dummy indicator fluid.
Howdy Goobertown - I just wanted to let you know that your videos are an absolute highlight of my rabbit hole into this hobby. I've learned so much from you, and I was JUST getting ready to dip into magnetization when lo and behold, you drop this video. I couldn't be more excited to watch it and learn. I just wanted to say thank you for your hard work, your wonderful attitude, and your various tips n' tricks. I show everyone who wants to get into the hobby your channel, and I will continue to do so as long as it's around. You have a disarming kindness about you that is unmatched. Thanks for taking the time to do this service for the community.
I painted my first models this last week thanks to your videos. I just wanted to practice to paint my new campaign mini but I ended up having so much fun it's become my new hobby.
You don't know how long I've been searching for steel discs. Had no idea they are called strike plates! All I could find were stainless steel discs to make pet tags and the like from, but as you mention, most grades of stainless are not magnetic. My idea was to cut 32mm dowel into roughly 10cm lengths and stick a steel disc to the end to make painting handles similar to yours. In the end I gave up and bought 10x5mm magnets, drilled holes in the end (which is surprisingly difficult with a hand drill) and stuck them in. It works, but I wish I'd known about strike plates before I did it, as it would eliminate the odd polarity issue. Also, some bases are not clear underneath which means the magnets have to be stuck off centre which means they don't sit nicely on the handle. A strike plate would solve that too. Thanks for mentioning the website; placing an order now!
This is the best magnetizing your base for miniatures video I have seen so far. You have excellent experience to back things up! Thank you Brent! Your awesome!
I used this tutorial a while ago, and did things a little differently. I put three 6mm magnets on the top of each painting handle, then used fender washers under each mini base. Thinking about redoing my system now though, because I found ferromagnetic baking sheets at my local dollar store! My biggest obstacle was acquiring steel sheets, and now I can get as many as I want. I’m thinking about building a box with slots on each side to slide the tray in from the front, then close up the front and secure it for storage and transport.
Awesome video! One more material to use in the bottom of a 'document bin' is any ferrous sheet, I'm using FerroFlex. It's stronger than a magnetic sheet, but less strong than steel. The benefit is that it's able to be cut by normal scissors.
Really glad I found this video, I never heard of the strike plates and never see anyone even talk about them, usually just get the "glue a magnetic on and get magnetic receptive sheets." but getting strike plates and magnetic sheets seem to be way easier to find and I won't have to worry about my minis being near my desk or electronics.
If I'm 3D printing bases and want to put a magnet hole in them, I use the drain hole feature to put a hole the size of the magnet in the bottom. The bases are too thin to hollow but the hole will still get added without having to open up the STL in a 3D modeling tool
When I bought my first mini painting kit a few years ago, I was confused by the instructions using fancy words like “priming”, so I took to youtube and Goobertown Hobbies “FUNDAMENTALS!” video was the first thing I watched and building my own magnetized handles from an old broomstick, was the first thing I did afterwards (as well as buying a wet palette). The information itself, to put the Minis on a handle, probably saved me from a lot of frustration while painting! Today, already knowing about magnetized handles, this video was still very informative and I learned some new things I can implement into the hobby. Thanks Brent!
I use regular washers on all my bases because of both 3D printing bases and cost of regular washers is way cheaper than lots and lots of magnets. Thin washers glue well on the 3D printed bases and add ballast. I use a magnetic sheet for my 2 transport boxes like your Rigid one. One time cost. I glue a larger magnet on some purchased wine corks from the dollar store to hold my minis and larger corks and larger magnets for the 50mm and larger minis that have bigger washers. I don't have an issue with the hole (maybe you do because of the smaller magnets you use in your handles? I think I got this idea washer/magnet from you on an earlier video a few years back? Been running with it ever since. Strike plates I've never considered and if the same price as washers (more or less) I would prefer them I guess too. Great video! I got the toolbox idea from you too! Thanks for the great videos you make!
Ernesto, curiously enough, that was the system I was using before I started to paint minis BEFORE basing them (I not always know which base I will be using…) using one of those RGG handles. I found that putting the magnets on the minis was a problem for me, some minis insisted on stick on others, sometimes they got stuck where I did not want to, etc. So after a few tries I switched to a solution similar to yours, but instead of washers I used small nuts: they stuck to the magnet on the homemade handle I used and ALSO they could be screwed in the metric screw I had in another handle, so two for one. And added some ballast, too. When I need to use magnets, I still use the nuts and put the magnet on the handle instead, which for me leads to more control. This said, this system does not work for transportation in my case as I could not find a good enough magnetic sheet, but well, I seldom move my minis around.
I glue magnets similar to how you do it, but using hot glue: I prepare a non-stick surface, either i put a sheet of baking paper on the table or use something flat made of silicone. I put the magnet in the right position it should be once it's glued to the base (learned your reference magnet trick on one of your videos, still have to magnetize handles though), then i dribble hot glue on top and a bit around it, then i put the base on top of it, then let it cool. In the end i have the magnet solidly grabbed to the base from the bottom and the sides, yet it's flush with the table, and since it's hot glue, if i desire i can remove it with some heat. And it's very fast, you can have a bunch of bases ready quick if you put down many magnets on the surface waiting to be glued (just be sure they aren't *too* close).
That sounds like a good system, I like it!!! :-) I've been seeing a surprising number of folks recommend hot glue, and now I'm curious, thanks for the recommendation!
Just to say I have been doing the same but putting the hot glue under the base and then hoping to put it down in the right spot, I've just read this and now feel like a total idiot! how did I not think of this, thanks for the info.
I have a painting handle that uses a screw on cap. coincidentally, soda bottle caps fit on this. So I super glued magnets on the bottom of the bottle caps and use some poster tac and then I didn't have to buy cork or dowels for batch painting. Its an option for those that are looking to be more efficient. I love these videos. Such a great ambassador of the hobby and humanity.
I've used small washer that I glue 5x2mm magnets to. It gives the minis a bit more bottom weight and the magnets are generally strong enough. Glad I'm near your mark!
For those with mini collections pre-existing that you might want to magnetise quickly, The Magnet Shop (based in the UK) have the WarMag line of adhesive magnetic discs that work very simply. They’re designed to cover the entire base, which increases the height of the mini by a millimetre, but makes for a huge contact point for your storage surface or handle.
@@noverman 3M (and probably others too) make ferrous sheets, which are basically the same except without the design, but for half the price. I'm sure you can find them in the US.
I’ve been waiting for a vid just like this. My use of magnetic sheets hasn’t worked for me so you tips around baking trays metal, sheets and milliput instead of super glue has been invaluable…. Thanks Brent !
Great video, you’ve covered everything I usually do for storage. Wargaming minis get a magnet under the base (usually held by greenstuff) then get stored in boxes exactly like you demonstrated. Board game minis get a steel washer underneath (annoying hole in the middle and all), because as you say the extra weight is really useful especially with light plastic minis, then I usually add a strip of flexible magnetic sheeting inside the gamebox to hold them so everything can be stored in one place.
I've seen some whacky magnetizing attempts over the years. One guys infantry had nickel-sized refrigerator magnets. They had just enough sideways pull to where they acted like a pseudo-movement tray. You could gently slide 1 model across the table and several others would follow lol. I tend to use 5x2mm for infantry. 3x2 if they have weak glue joins on the feet like those bloodbowl amazons that stand on their tip toes. My other mags were for specific magnet jobs and were sized for those specific applications.
Well now I know what I'm doing this weekend. Brent 10/10 with the knowledge and technical skills sharing. If you ever find yourself in Georgia I owe you a beer for all your awesome videos
Great video! I use a a wad of green stuff superglued to the base along with a magnet superglued to that. One thing I learned recently is that baking soda will instantly set CA (Super) Glue! So a quick dip in that, shake off the excess and you're done!
This is pure gold advice! I've been doing this for years myself using second hand store baking trays. And I've been using dollar store glass jars with metal lids for my paint handles but magnet to magnet in a wood handle... ya... I'm making the change.
This video is hands down the new Gold Standard for anyone trying to get into magnetization. I utilize many of these techniques already and consider myself a pretty savvy magnetizer...but even I learned a lot here! I am both inspired and discouraged to make my own version of this video. It almost seems redundant to do anything other than link folks to this one in the future 😅 Might just stick to specific kit guides for my channel. Hats off to you for this highly in depth guide!
I got inspired by your priming video, and decided to magnetize my workflow! I don't have access to power tools and workshops, so I glue little ferromagnetic disks that are meant for makeup depotting, onto surfaces like painting handles and the board I'm using for priming. It's honestly life changing!
Great to see that my magnetizing fetish isn't unique! Lots of great tips in there. Here's a couple of mine: I have one reference mini in my magnet drawer that ensures I always use the same orientation. And if you do need to drill holes on minis that have integral bases, like plastic minis from board games or resin minis, I highly recommend investing in brad-point drill bits matched to the size of you magnet. These drill a cylinder with flat end rather than a conical one. You don't have to drill as deep to fit the magnet, and they are also super-useful for precisely positioning magnets in models.
6:26 comfortable diameter depends on hand size, but those wooden dowels are definitely a great shout. I use empty pill/supplement bottles myself. I like the bigger ones (2" diameter) better, although I put a cork on top instead of a magnet and that makes them slightly too tall for my airbrush booth. Cork on top is for where the pin in the foot goes. This way I have great excess to the bottom of the mini. To prevent them from falling over, I glued a small cork coaster to the bottom. Cardboard also works.
This is the next thing I will do, I have trays of ASOIAF miniatures they are moving on the battlefield in their tray and it is so easy to bump them. Magnetizing the small trays would help so much in avoiding this + also it would help with transporting them to tournaments. It is really cumbersome to take the whole box. This is a great idea. I have also seen some case called the A-case they are a Polish company and they make transporting cases with metal shelves for minis. I know what I am getting for Christmas :) Thanks Brent for the encouragement that this is a good idea :)
That's hilarious timing. I watched your original video about your magnetized storage case from like 4 years ago 3 times last night and planned on doing something similar. Love seeing an updated video on the topic.
Hey thanks! black paint for the underarmor, and secret-weapon washes on the armor... I might need to paint some more now that speedpaint is a thing! :-)
I've had good luck attaching magnets with pressing them into Hot glue. Sometime they'll still pop out but then I'll superglue the magnet back into the crevasse the Hot Glue formed around the magnet and then it doesn't go anywhere. Love the content and how you think through everything. Thanks!
I loved this video! Made me second guess myself. I went ahead earlier and magnetized all my bases with an adhesive magnetically receptive sheet that I simply cut around the bases. Seems to be working well so far, without being too weak or too strong ; my only fear now is adhesion longevity!
For the slot bases, just clip out or grind down the slot in the middle. I used to clip them out entirely because I glued nickels to the bottoms for weight on my hormogaunts. As long as you glue or epoxy slot in good, it's fine to remove that meat from the bottom so you can center a magnet.
A little trick I use myself: Personally I secure magnets to bases by encasing them within a little dollop of acrylic basing paste (Vallejo's sand texture, FYI). I have to leave them aside overnight to dry, but the paste is basically hard as a rock when it does, since it's a very similar material to what one would use to lay bathroom tiles.
Hullo Brent! Outstanding Magnet Mini video! I like how you showed the Jazza set of mini's I have those still in the box and have not had to gumption to get going on them, maybe this is the video to spur me on? You have always been a stalwart builder and you are a truly generous person, Thank You! I will be looking for your next video, see ya then!
Fantastic Video. One point of consideration, counter-sinking a metal bolt with a flush head into your dowels would serve the same purpose as the magnet and allow you to ignore polarity when painting as well. And might help for those who didn't pay attention to polarity on the base
I've been doing this for year with all my Infinity minis. It helps CB started making bases with a handy 1.5mm diameter slot for a magnet. The downside is as you mentioned when you do has a critical failure pewter minis can do some real damage to other pewter minis. But to alleviate that problem you can still use a little bit of foam in your cases/storage area's just to soften the movement IF you do drop it or a magnet fails.
For flight stands! I found Ball and Socket magnets for my X-Wing minis. It allowed me to do some really nice poses. Highly recommend them for smaller flying bases. Rotation Magnets in all sizes. The are so awesome!
@@GoobertownHobbies so much fun. (If you specifically look for X-Wing miniatures magnets you'll find the shapes and sizes that work best for those models. Easily translatable into 40K or other games)
I use automotive drip pans for gaming boards. My terrain and miniatures have magnets in the bases, so everything stays in place if the table gets bumped. Great video with many great ideas. Thanks
I actually like using hot glue to glue the magnets to the base of the mini. You have to make sure there's at least a thin film of hot glue between the magnet and whatever surface that you attach it to or the magnet will pop out fairly easily. What I do to get the magnet to stay as close to the bottom surface as possible is take a small piece of sheet metal and coat it with Crisco and then stick it to the base to pull the magnet toward the bottom. After the hot glue sets up you can twist that little piece of sheet metal and it'll pop right off.
This has been so helpful for storage, carrying and having armies march down the fridge. Although I think I need to pick up a more classic magnet with N and S marked for easier testing, one of those rectangular ones should work for that. I do guess I could make my own, but I was thinking a tester that isn't quite as violently attracted or repelled would send less minis flying across the room.
I love the old Easton Aluminum in here. I had one as a kid and loved it. That might have been my favorite hockey stick ever. Great video Im currently in the process of magnetizing my storage and this really helped
Great summary of msgnets, even the negatives. Tried myself years ago and found them not the best for metal minis as too heavy. Will give them a shot again hopefully in future for my orks!
I had a lot of magents comming of bases in the past. No I use a thick super glue to glue the magnet on. Then when its dry I use a thin superglue to pool the magnet. This seales the magnet and it never comes off. You need a lot of force to get it off.
This was great! I just recently order magnets and a magnetic stick plate to do this as a carrying case after listening to Paint Bravely. This gives some more ideas, and I'm totally digging it
Started watching your vids when you started even though I don't really paint models. Your attention to detail and care shows in everything you do and you have the most soothing voice and relaxed attitude. As I said on the first comment I made, your channel is a treasure and I am SO, SO glad it grew this much.
One of the "advantages" on the dollar store becoming the dollar-twenty-five store is (at least near me) the expanded craft section. On my last trip I found a bunch of sheet-metal signs and tags that I've used in the bottom of my transport totes (also found at the same store) to hold my magnet-based figures. They also have magnets. I'll have to check out the makeup section next time for dry brush brushes.
Thanks for the magnet tips Brent, I've been trying to think of a good solution for my Conquest minis, because the bases are indeed shallow; now I have one!
First video of yours I'm watching but it's an instant sub & like from me! Really enjoy the informative tutorial mixed with just the right amount of humor and entertainment that's not too forced. And the information itself is great! I love the creative ideas/solutions such as having a few handles to handle both polarities, which is great if you glue a magnet by accident with a different polarity of if you ever buy models already magnetised and doesn't know the polarity for the magnet. That's just one example. For someone who's been thinking of starting to magnetise his minis and then this showing up on my feed it's perfect. Keep it up!
Awesome tips Brent! Here's another one for you: If you're 3D printing resin bases, use the "hole" feature to make a perfectly magnet size hole in the bottom! I keep a little notebook next to the computer, and I have a page with all my magnet sizes and the dimensions I would need for the hole. I like to make the hole 0.1mm larger than the magnet in both diameter and depth to allow for the thickness of the glue and any slight variations in the magnets.
Right now, I've been using 1in round magnets AS bases, but I will follow your suggestion for the larger bases. Trying to find 60mm magnets was an exercise in frustration.
Such a great in-depth video! I love the inventiveness for all of your priming rigs! Seen some other people talking about hot glue, I've been using this but haven't been transporting anything around much, so I can't vouch for it's strength/longevity in regular use. I do find this easy to get polarity correct on a magnetic adhesive sheet though, and also to get the base and magnet flush with the surface. I put a sheet of baking paper over the magnetic sheet (so glue overspill doesn't get on the magnetic sheet), put my magnets down on the baking paper so that the polarity is correct. Then I put a fairly thick blob of hot glue on the magnet, and push the base/mini onto it. The glue being thick and 3D means that it doubles as the spacer between the magnet and base, so both are flush to the surface. I usually leave them in place overnight to give the glue a chance to harden. It's seemed to work well for me so far!
Good timing on this video, as I have just started the process of magnetizing my miniatures. The document boxes work great, especially if you have a friend in the HVAC trade that can cut a bunch of steel sheets to size for you 😉 Getting the steel stuck to the boxes is more challenging, as nothing sticks very well to the polypropylene plastic. The best solution I found is a drill and a pop rivet gun.
Something I learned the hard way: Tin Snips are color coded. Yellow handles cut straight, red curves left, and green curves right. Fought with and ruined a lot of duct steel before I got some yellow handles.
Strike plates! I have looked for magnetic steel discs to make flight stands and failed, but now thanks to you I know what they're called and where to get them. Thanks Brent.
What a wonderful video. Thank you! I've started using magnets for bases, and this gives me a bunch of new ideas. Magnets are great because I spend way too much time painting each mini, and it sucks to get them scuffed up.
Excellent video. I have been using magnets on my minis for quite some time and you've given me some new ideas. When I go out and get sheet metal I look for roofing sheet metal because I found that's cheaper. Of course as you said you have to be careful to make sure you pick out sheet metal that will work with magnets.
Hey Brent, for solid bases a trick I use for lighter models is magnetic sheets. You can glue them flat to the bottom and cut the sheet flush with scissors! I've even made my own bases for some One Page Rules models with chipboard cut into circles glued directly onto magnet sheets before giving them a trim. Might recommend plasticard or something though, but I also covered the tops with texture rolled greenstuff. All light-weight and simple.
What a great timing for uploading this video! Just bought my first batch of magnets to magnetize the bases of my first batch of models I painted after getting inspired by your videos :)
I just found a seller who makes these metal disks for phone to car magnets. They come with adhesive already. It'll come in handy with resin prints with flat bases. They also come in a lot of sizes.
That Brent has a Harvard degree comes as no surprise. Your videos are dynamic, relevant, and wicked smart.
I took a few night classes there through their extension school... I think the Qdoba rewards card probably says more about me :-)
Wicked Smaaaaaaaht!
@@wellywanderer There it is.
I secretly suspect that he and miniminuteman (history-tuber who went to college in Boston) are actually the same person
I used to think that a Harvard degree guaranteed someone was smart, until I was proven wrong a few times, but it usually does indicate they have self discipline and a good work ethic and are knowledgeable, and many are indeed wicked smart, but a few at least, are definitely not what anyone should be calling smart (unless they are even less intelligent themselves) but that doesn’t mean they aren’t knowledgeable or hard working. Goobertown is smart, hard working, and a great content creator!
You inadvertently made one of the best magnetizing wargaming figures tutorial in one of your yellow Chaos painting videos. The idea of securing magnets to a base with the help of green stuff has been a lifechanger. Now, whenever I have leftover putty after sculpting, I dip into my glass display cabinets, and secure the older magnets on my figures better with a ring of putty. Thanks for the great content!
Nice! That's a great way to never waste putty hehehe
@@GoobertownHobbies at Adepticon, remind me to walk you through how magnets can be used to make a Warhammer army airplane-safe
Fucking magnets! How do they work?
I never thought of that. Usually I just use leftover putty by making random pieces of basing debris.
I’ve been looking for something like that for a while. Glad to now know what to search for. Strike plates!
Ahhh, that's the ticket, laddie!
Dimes, nickels, quarters, loonies, and toonies are all viable options too. Just stay away from that American play money.
For 3d printed resin bases, it's actually quite easy to punch a magnet hole in the base. In lychee or chitubox, the hollowing feature can put holes in miniatures for drain holes; upsize that hole to the width and depth of your magnet, and it works like a charm. It only takes a couple seconds to punch the hole in the base, so my entire build plate can be done in 30 seconds.
good call! this totally makes sense, I'll give it a try someday. :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Magnetic Paper/Film, some glue (the adhesive on the paper isn't very strong), and a scissors/hobby knife to cut the magnet paper to size also works pretty well (and works for regular bases too, but not nearly as strong as neodymium magnets, so metal models on regular or resin bases doesn't really work).
@@tom-m-29 I have a 1 inch circluar punch for doing exactly that. Works great for most person and smaller size resin models and holds well to steel plate.
I came here to share this; good to see it's already covered!
This this this. even if I am not magnetizing, I am punching holes in the bottom of all my bases as a future proof. I found better results of doing this in lychee compared to chitubox :)
Quick tip for those who want to cut their own sheet steel but have never done so be careful with the edges or wear gloves. Cutting sheet metal, especially steel, with snips like that can leave really sharp and jagged edges that will easily go through skin running over them with a file quickly can remove those burred edges. I can't count the number of times at work a tiny slip on an edge has caused me to release red dummy indicator fluid.
Yes, always deburr your metal after cutting it.
Howdy Goobertown - I just wanted to let you know that your videos are an absolute highlight of my rabbit hole into this hobby. I've learned so much from you, and I was JUST getting ready to dip into magnetization when lo and behold, you drop this video. I couldn't be more excited to watch it and learn.
I just wanted to say thank you for your hard work, your wonderful attitude, and your various tips n' tricks. I show everyone who wants to get into the hobby your channel, and I will continue to do so as long as it's around. You have a disarming kindness about you that is unmatched. Thanks for taking the time to do this service for the community.
Hey thanks for the note! I'm glad these are useful for you... and I'm happy that the timing of this one worked out so well! :-)
I painted my first models this last week thanks to your videos. I just wanted to practice to paint my new campaign mini but I ended up having so much fun it's become my new hobby.
That's amazing!!! keep goin keep goin! :-)
The magnet sandwich is answered in such depth that anyone can do it now! Thanks for this video!
This video is impressively comprehensive, you really covered everything. Plus, CATS!
You don't know how long I've been searching for steel discs. Had no idea they are called strike plates! All I could find were stainless steel discs to make pet tags and the like from, but as you mention, most grades of stainless are not magnetic. My idea was to cut 32mm dowel into roughly 10cm lengths and stick a steel disc to the end to make painting handles similar to yours. In the end I gave up and bought 10x5mm magnets, drilled holes in the end (which is surprisingly difficult with a hand drill) and stuck them in. It works, but I wish I'd known about strike plates before I did it, as it would eliminate the odd polarity issue. Also, some bases are not clear underneath which means the magnets have to be stuck off centre which means they don't sit nicely on the handle. A strike plate would solve that too. Thanks for mentioning the website; placing an order now!
This is the best magnetizing your base for miniatures video I have seen so far. You have excellent experience to back things up! Thank you Brent! Your awesome!
I used this tutorial a while ago, and did things a little differently. I put three 6mm magnets on the top of each painting handle, then used fender washers under each mini base.
Thinking about redoing my system now though, because I found ferromagnetic baking sheets at my local dollar store! My biggest obstacle was acquiring steel sheets, and now I can get as many as I want. I’m thinking about building a box with slots on each side to slide the tray in from the front, then close up the front and secure it for storage and transport.
Awesome video! One more material to use in the bottom of a 'document bin' is any ferrous sheet, I'm using FerroFlex. It's stronger than a magnetic sheet, but less strong than steel. The benefit is that it's able to be cut by normal scissors.
oh good call, thanks! :-)
I love how you showed off this again!!!!!
This is a great way to help people thinking about magnets totally worth it
Really glad I found this video, I never heard of the strike plates and never see anyone even talk about them, usually just get the "glue a magnetic on and get magnetic receptive sheets." but getting strike plates and magnetic sheets seem to be way easier to find and I won't have to worry about my minis being near my desk or electronics.
I like these kinds of video's the most. Where you report back on your experience after doing a hobby related thing for a while.
Thanks! I figured I've tried enough variants of this magnet stuff that it was time to make a vid :-)
If I'm 3D printing bases and want to put a magnet hole in them, I use the drain hole feature to put a hole the size of the magnet in the bottom. The bases are too thin to hollow but the hole will still get added without having to open up the STL in a 3D modeling tool
nice! great call, I need to give that a shot :-)
I started painting again after 20 years. I learned so much from your tutorial videos. Thanks a lot.
Very nice! Welcome back :-)
Once again Brent provides an in depth thoughtful solution to a constant problem we all have. Thank you!!!!
I've been using magnets for years but I learned so much from your video! Thanks for this! :)
When I bought my first mini painting kit a few years ago, I was confused by the instructions using fancy words like “priming”, so I took to youtube and Goobertown Hobbies “FUNDAMENTALS!” video was the first thing I watched and building my own magnetized handles from an old broomstick, was the first thing I did afterwards (as well as buying a wet palette). The information itself, to put the Minis on a handle, probably saved me from a lot of frustration while painting! Today, already knowing about magnetized handles, this video was still very informative and I learned some new things I can implement into the hobby. Thanks Brent!
This chanel is simply a gem! Thanks for this and all other tips and tutorials.
I use regular washers on all my bases because of both 3D printing bases and cost of regular washers is way cheaper than lots and lots of magnets. Thin washers glue well on the 3D printed bases and add ballast. I use a magnetic sheet for my 2 transport boxes like your Rigid one. One time cost. I glue a larger magnet on some purchased wine corks from the dollar store to hold my minis and larger corks and larger magnets for the 50mm and larger minis that have bigger washers. I don't have an issue with the hole (maybe you do because of the smaller magnets you use in your handles? I think I got this idea washer/magnet from you on an earlier video a few years back? Been running with it ever since. Strike plates I've never considered and if the same price as washers (more or less) I would prefer them I guess too. Great video! I got the toolbox idea from you too! Thanks for the great videos you make!
Nice! That sounds like a good system you've got there :-)
Ernesto, curiously enough, that was the system I was using before I started to paint minis BEFORE basing them (I not always know which base I will be using…) using one of those RGG handles. I found that putting the magnets on the minis was a problem for me, some minis insisted on stick on others, sometimes they got stuck where I did not want to, etc. So after a few tries I switched to a solution similar to yours, but instead of washers I used small nuts: they stuck to the magnet on the homemade handle I used and ALSO they could be screwed in the metric screw I had in another handle, so two for one. And added some ballast, too. When I need to use magnets, I still use the nuts and put the magnet on the handle instead, which for me leads to more control.
This said, this system does not work for transportation in my case as I could not find a good enough magnetic sheet, but well, I seldom move my minis around.
I glue magnets similar to how you do it, but using hot glue: I prepare a non-stick surface, either i put a sheet of baking paper on the table or use something flat made of silicone. I put the magnet in the right position it should be once it's glued to the base (learned your reference magnet trick on one of your videos, still have to magnetize handles though), then i dribble hot glue on top and a bit around it, then i put the base on top of it, then let it cool. In the end i have the magnet solidly grabbed to the base from the bottom and the sides, yet it's flush with the table, and since it's hot glue, if i desire i can remove it with some heat. And it's very fast, you can have a bunch of bases ready quick if you put down many magnets on the surface waiting to be glued (just be sure they aren't *too* close).
That sounds like a good system, I like it!!! :-) I've been seeing a surprising number of folks recommend hot glue, and now I'm curious, thanks for the recommendation!
Just to say I have been doing the same but putting the hot glue under the base and then hoping to put it down in the right spot, I've just read this and now feel like a total idiot! how did I not think of this, thanks for the info.
I have a painting handle that uses a screw on cap. coincidentally, soda bottle caps fit on this. So I super glued magnets on the bottom of the bottle caps and use some poster tac and then I didn't have to buy cork or dowels for batch painting. Its an option for those that are looking to be more efficient. I love these videos. Such a great ambassador of the hobby and humanity.
I've used small washer that I glue 5x2mm magnets to. It gives the minis a bit more bottom weight and the magnets are generally strong enough. Glad I'm near your mark!
Nice! I'm glad you have a system that's working for you :-)
For those with mini collections pre-existing that you might want to magnetise quickly, The Magnet Shop (based in the UK) have the WarMag line of adhesive magnetic discs that work very simply. They’re designed to cover the entire base, which increases the height of the mini by a millimetre, but makes for a huge contact point for your storage surface or handle.
They also have the sheets that fill the Really Useful 4L boxes. and are printed designs to boot. Just wish I could find a supplier state side.
@@noverman 3M (and probably others too) make ferrous sheets, which are basically the same except without the design, but for half the price. I'm sure you can find them in the US.
I’ve been waiting for a vid just like this. My use of magnetic sheets hasn’t worked for me so you tips around baking trays metal, sheets and milliput instead of super glue has been invaluable…. Thanks Brent !
Great video, you’ve covered everything I usually do for storage. Wargaming minis get a magnet under the base (usually held by greenstuff) then get stored in boxes exactly like you demonstrated. Board game minis get a steel washer underneath (annoying hole in the middle and all), because as you say the extra weight is really useful especially with light plastic minis, then I usually add a strip of flexible magnetic sheeting inside the gamebox to hold them so everything can be stored in one place.
excellent!! :-)
Great video Brent, it was so powerful I couldn't pull myself away from the screen
I've seen some whacky magnetizing attempts over the years. One guys infantry had nickel-sized refrigerator magnets. They had just enough sideways pull to where they acted like a pseudo-movement tray. You could gently slide 1 model across the table and several others would follow lol.
I tend to use 5x2mm for infantry. 3x2 if they have weak glue joins on the feet like those bloodbowl amazons that stand on their tip toes.
My other mags were for specific magnet jobs and were sized for those specific applications.
hahahaha, that's great
This man not only has the most wholesome useful miniatures videos but he has two of the most adorable cats
I’ve gotten in the habit of using old gift cards and hotel keys as spacers for my magnets under the bases. Works a treat!
Well now I know what I'm doing this weekend. Brent 10/10 with the knowledge and technical skills sharing. If you ever find yourself in Georgia I owe you a beer for all your awesome videos
have an outstanding weekend!!! :-)
I followed your magnetization system since the little gobbos and has been a game changer for my project logistics.
that's awesome to hear! I love 'em :-)
Great video! I use a a wad of green stuff superglued to the base along with a magnet superglued to that. One thing I learned recently is that baking soda will instantly set CA (Super) Glue! So a quick dip in that, shake off the excess and you're done!
This is pure gold advice! I've been doing this for years myself using second hand store baking trays. And I've been using dollar store glass jars with metal lids for my paint handles but magnet to magnet in a wood handle... ya... I'm making the change.
nice! I've done the jar technique myself, but the wooden handles are nice and comfy :-)
Brilliant! Great job! Always learning something new!
I’m still here for the fishing videos🎣!
I really wish the USA would get with the program and use the Metric system.
This video is hands down the new Gold Standard for anyone trying to get into magnetization. I utilize many of these techniques already and consider myself a pretty savvy magnetizer...but even I learned a lot here! I am both inspired and discouraged to make my own version of this video. It almost seems redundant to do anything other than link folks to this one in the future 😅 Might just stick to specific kit guides for my channel. Hats off to you for this highly in depth guide!
I got inspired by your priming video, and decided to magnetize my workflow! I don't have access to power tools and workshops, so I glue little ferromagnetic disks that are meant for makeup depotting, onto surfaces like painting handles and the board I'm using for priming. It's honestly life changing!
That's awesome!!! great to hear :-)
Thank you! I’ve been in the experiment stage with magnets for far too long & it’s great to be able to jump ahead by sharing your results
Great to see that my magnetizing fetish isn't unique! Lots of great tips in there. Here's a couple of mine: I have one reference mini in my magnet drawer that ensures I always use the same orientation. And if you do need to drill holes on minis that have integral bases, like plastic minis from board games or resin minis, I highly recommend investing in brad-point drill bits matched to the size of you magnet. These drill a cylinder with flat end rather than a conical one. You don't have to drill as deep to fit the magnet, and they are also super-useful for precisely positioning magnets in models.
Oh yeah, gotta have a reference magnet! "brad-point" drill bits - this is new info for me, thank you!! :-)
I love that you're using the old Dark Eldar Warp Beasts. Those beauties were one of my first sets!
I love that old DE range :-) The beasts actually look pretty good on 40 mm round bases!
I literally just finished building my first conquest models and am exploring magnetization options. Glorious content as always
nice!!
6:26 comfortable diameter depends on hand size, but those wooden dowels are definitely a great shout. I use empty pill/supplement bottles myself. I like the bigger ones (2" diameter) better, although I put a cork on top instead of a magnet and that makes them slightly too tall for my airbrush booth. Cork on top is for where the pin in the foot goes. This way I have great excess to the bottom of the mini. To prevent them from falling over, I glued a small cork coaster to the bottom. Cardboard also works.
This is the next thing I will do, I have trays of ASOIAF miniatures they are moving on the battlefield in their tray and it is so easy to bump them. Magnetizing the small trays would help so much in avoiding this + also it would help with transporting them to tournaments. It is really cumbersome to take the whole box. This is a great idea. I have also seen some case called the A-case they are a Polish company and they make transporting cases with metal shelves for minis. I know what I am getting for Christmas :) Thanks Brent for the encouragement that this is a good idea :)
That's hilarious timing. I watched your original video about your magnetized storage case from like 4 years ago 3 times last night and planned on doing something similar. Love seeing an updated video on the topic.
hahahaha, nice!
I'm going with the less elegant velcro way, but your video helped me a ton. Kudos.
Another amazing video. The amount of effort you put into the things you do, is unreal.
Magnets 2.0! Love it. Made a vid on how we magnetize it for the german audience and I can't get around always referencing your handles. Great video :)
I love your OG Dark Eldar army! That great paint job makes the classic models feel like the modern range 👍Well done Sir!
Hey thanks! black paint for the underarmor, and secret-weapon washes on the armor... I might need to paint some more now that speedpaint is a thing! :-)
I've been using this system for the last two years. Very big improvement over the foam that I had been using.
Really enjoyed this - particuarley the painting handles - thanks for the tips!
I've had good luck attaching magnets with pressing them into Hot glue. Sometime they'll still pop out but then I'll superglue the magnet back into the crevasse the Hot Glue formed around the magnet and then it doesn't go anywhere. Love the content and how you think through everything. Thanks!
Nice!! I've gotta give hot glue another try :-)
I always wondered when we would get a magnet video, Very nice.
I took some of this footage 4 years ago, but it wasn't until I found those strike plates that I knew the time had finally come :-)
I loved this video! Made me second guess myself. I went ahead earlier and magnetized all my bases with an adhesive magnetically receptive sheet that I simply cut around the bases. Seems to be working well so far, without being too weak or too strong ; my only fear now is adhesion longevity!
For the slot bases, just clip out or grind down the slot in the middle. I used to clip them out entirely because I glued nickels to the bottoms for weight on my hormogaunts. As long as you glue or epoxy slot in good, it's fine to remove that meat from the bottom so you can center a magnet.
A little trick I use myself: Personally I secure magnets to bases by encasing them within a little dollop of acrylic basing paste (Vallejo's sand texture, FYI). I have to leave them aside overnight to dry, but the paste is basically hard as a rock when it does, since it's a very similar material to what one would use to lay bathroom tiles.
That's a really good idea, I'm going to have to give it a try. Thank you for sharing!
@@Derlaid no problem!
nice! :-)
Hullo Brent! Outstanding Magnet Mini video! I like how you showed the Jazza set of mini's I have those still in the box and have not had to gumption to get going on them, maybe this is the video to spur me on? You have always been a stalwart builder and you are a truly generous person, Thank You! I will be looking for your next video, see ya then!
Great content. I remember your earlier video about magnetizing painting handles. This is a very good follow-up with a lot more detail . Thanks!
Fantastic Video.
One point of consideration, counter-sinking a metal bolt with a flush head into your dowels would serve the same purpose as the magnet and allow you to ignore polarity when painting as well. And might help for those who didn't pay attention to polarity on the base
I've been doing this for year with all my Infinity minis. It helps CB started making bases with a handy 1.5mm diameter slot for a magnet.
The downside is as you mentioned when you do has a critical failure pewter minis can do some real damage to other pewter minis.
But to alleviate that problem you can still use a little bit of foam in your cases/storage area's just to soften the movement IF you do drop it or a magnet fails.
For flight stands! I found Ball and Socket magnets for my X-Wing minis. It allowed me to do some really nice poses. Highly recommend them for smaller flying bases. Rotation Magnets in all sizes. The are so awesome!
I'm excited to give that a try!! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies so much fun. (If you specifically look for X-Wing miniatures magnets you'll find the shapes and sizes that work best for those models. Easily translatable into 40K or other games)
I use automotive drip pans for gaming boards. My terrain and miniatures have magnets in the bases, so everything stays in place if the table gets bumped. Great video with many great ideas. Thanks
oooh, I'll look into these, thanks!! :-)
I actually like using hot glue to glue the magnets to the base of the mini. You have to make sure there's at least a thin film of hot glue between the magnet and whatever surface that you attach it to or the magnet will pop out fairly easily. What I do to get the magnet to stay as close to the bottom surface as possible is take a small piece of sheet metal and coat it with Crisco and then stick it to the base to pull the magnet toward the bottom. After the hot glue sets up you can twist that little piece of sheet metal and it'll pop right off.
This video is so good. It's helpful, informative, and jumps right to rhr point. It has a plesant tone and is quite watchable. Excellent work!
hey thanks for checking it out, friend Five! :-)
This has been so helpful for storage, carrying and having armies march down the fridge. Although I think I need to pick up a more classic magnet with N and S marked for easier testing, one of those rectangular ones should work for that. I do guess I could make my own, but I was thinking a tester that isn't quite as violently attracted or repelled would send less minis flying across the room.
About to try this for the first time for storage and carrying, thanks for the video, really helpful.
oooh, have fun!!! I hope you find a system that works well for you :-)
I love the old Easton Aluminum in here. I had one as a kid and loved it. That might have been my favorite hockey stick ever. Great video Im currently in the process of magnetizing my storage and this really helped
Great summary of msgnets, even the negatives.
Tried myself years ago and found them not the best for metal minis as too heavy. Will give them a shot again hopefully in future for my orks!
I had a lot of magents comming of bases in the past. No I use a thick super glue to glue the magnet on. Then when its dry I use a thin superglue to pool the magnet. This seales the magnet and it never comes off. You need a lot of force to get it off.
that'll do it! :-)
This was great! I just recently order magnets and a magnetic stick plate to do this as a carrying case after listening to Paint Bravely. This gives some more ideas, and I'm totally digging it
awesome! Have fun :-)
Started watching your vids when you started even though I don't really paint models. Your attention to detail and care shows in everything you do and you have the most soothing voice and relaxed attitude. As I said on the first comment I made, your channel is a treasure and I am SO, SO glad it grew this much.
One of the "advantages" on the dollar store becoming the dollar-twenty-five store is (at least near me) the expanded craft section. On my last trip I found a bunch of sheet-metal signs and tags that I've used in the bottom of my transport totes (also found at the same store) to hold my magnet-based figures. They also have magnets. I'll have to check out the makeup section next time for dry brush brushes.
Thanks for the magnet tips Brent, I've been trying to think of a good solution for my Conquest minis, because the bases are indeed shallow; now I have one!
First video of yours I'm watching but it's an instant sub & like from me! Really enjoy the informative tutorial mixed with just the right amount of humor and entertainment that's not too forced. And the information itself is great! I love the creative ideas/solutions such as having a few handles to handle both polarities, which is great if you glue a magnet by accident with a different polarity of if you ever buy models already magnetised and doesn't know the polarity for the magnet. That's just one example.
For someone who's been thinking of starting to magnetise his minis and then this showing up on my feed it's perfect. Keep it up!
Welcome aboard! Magnets are great, so many clever things we can do with 'em 🙂
Awesome tips Brent! Here's another one for you: If you're 3D printing resin bases, use the "hole" feature to make a perfectly magnet size hole in the bottom! I keep a little notebook next to the computer, and I have a page with all my magnet sizes and the dimensions I would need for the hole. I like to make the hole 0.1mm larger than the magnet in both diameter and depth to allow for the thickness of the glue and any slight variations in the magnets.
Well done. Best DIY video I have seen this year. Thank you.
Right now, I've been using 1in round magnets AS bases, but I will follow your suggestion for the larger bases. Trying to find 60mm magnets was an exercise in frustration.
Definitely some great tips and tricks in here! Those strike plates look perfect for the Conquest minis. Awesome work as always 👍
thanks! I'm so excited about these conquest minis now :-)
love a good batch production line
Brilliant and informative! Shout out from South Africa! HOOOHAAA!!!
Omg, turns out to be that I 've been looking for some video-tutorial just like yours. Thank you for your video and research!
Nice, I hope it was helpful! Have fun with magnets :-)
Such a great in-depth video! I love the inventiveness for all of your priming rigs! Seen some other people talking about hot glue, I've been using this but haven't been transporting anything around much, so I can't vouch for it's strength/longevity in regular use. I do find this easy to get polarity correct on a magnetic adhesive sheet though, and also to get the base and magnet flush with the surface. I put a sheet of baking paper over the magnetic sheet (so glue overspill doesn't get on the magnetic sheet), put my magnets down on the baking paper so that the polarity is correct. Then I put a fairly thick blob of hot glue on the magnet, and push the base/mini onto it. The glue being thick and 3D means that it doubles as the spacer between the magnet and base, so both are flush to the surface. I usually leave them in place overnight to give the glue a chance to harden. It's seemed to work well for me so far!
Thanks for this video. In the process of finishing up my first unit and this is a lot of great info.
really good thorough video on magnetization!
A+ for shop safety. Bless you sir.
nono, there are many comments on this video because I forgot to use gloves while working with tin snips! B+ maybe ;-)
@@GoobertownHobbies I missed that! woops! Protect those Fingies!
Good timing on this video, as I have just started the process of magnetizing my miniatures. The document boxes work great, especially if you have a friend in the HVAC trade that can cut a bunch of steel sheets to size for you 😉 Getting the steel stuck to the boxes is more challenging, as nothing sticks very well to the polypropylene plastic. The best solution I found is a drill and a pop rivet gun.
that sounds incredible! protools! :-)
I use hot glue gun for this. Worked the best so far out of a few failed solutions
Magnetic storage is a game changer for me as a travelling Dm, so many needlessly broken minis
Something I learned the hard way: Tin Snips are color coded. Yellow handles cut straight, red curves left, and green curves right. Fought with and ruined a lot of duct steel before I got some yellow handles.
Strike plates! I have looked for magnetic steel discs to make flight stands and failed, but now thanks to you I know what they're called and where to get them. Thanks Brent.
What a wonderful video.
Thank you!
I've started using magnets for bases, and this gives me a bunch of new ideas.
Magnets are great because I spend way too much time painting each mini, and it sucks to get them scuffed up.
Excellent video. I have been using magnets on my minis for quite some time and you've given me some new ideas. When I go out and get sheet metal I look for roofing sheet metal because I found that's cheaper. Of course as you said you have to be careful to make sure you pick out sheet metal that will work with magnets.
I've been using hot glue to glue magnets to my bases. The thickness of the glue allows for a spacer without the hassle of epoxy. Highly recommend!
Hey Brent, for solid bases a trick I use for lighter models is magnetic sheets. You can glue them flat to the bottom and cut the sheet flush with scissors! I've even made my own bases for some One Page Rules models with chipboard cut into circles glued directly onto magnet sheets before giving them a trim. Might recommend plasticard or something though, but I also covered the tops with texture rolled greenstuff. All light-weight and simple.
nice! That sounds great :-)
8:22 - Donkey Kong Lol. Great informational video, Brent!
the locktite epoxy is awesome! love the pointed tip it creates
What a great timing for uploading this video! Just bought my first batch of magnets to magnetize the bases of my first batch of models I painted after getting inspired by your videos :)
heheheh, I hope the magnetization went well!!! :-)
I just found a seller who makes these metal disks for phone to car magnets. They come with adhesive already. It'll come in handy with resin prints with flat bases. They also come in a lot of sizes.