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Use sprue glue, and then use ordinary thin cement to remove the extruded goo from the seems.

4:46 I got that reference ahaha

As a COD player, memelord and someone who appreciates comedy, I love the counter! Hahaha Hilarious and satisfying

This was very helpful, thank you

I used to magnetise upper recievers from Pistols with multiple 1*1mm magnets^^

100% unnecessary amount of magnetization. absolutely love it.

Anyone know if this work with gunpla plastic?

I've yet to try it, but I seen a video of someone using UV resin for gap filling by just building it up in small layers.

I think polystyrene covered in PVA and sand would give you a good space rock at a much lower cost. You can normally find old polystyrene packaging someone is throwing out and sand is very cheap to free depending on where you are.

Nice 😂

Will there be a solid video on the right way to magnetize the sentinel in the future?

Hey I realize this video is two years old, but I wanted you to know I found it a few weeks ago and just pulled a tray full of asteroids out of the oven. Thank you for this walkthrough!

Your sprue goo was WAY too thick.

wtf gw being user friendly...

Try using chloroform. Mutch better.

so....I'm thinkin' you can't use the grey on red plastic. Therefore, you need a new bottle of glue for every color?

Very fun video to watch

its a very good helpful video i wish you made a octoblade one, before i needed to find out myself

Dang, Jon's a real one

Pretty sweet man thanks for the tutorial!

Sprue glue is tight!

Makes me want to resume my old project i gave up on. 2x multi-lasers where the standard weapons are affixed, while 2x Lascannons are mounted up on the upper rear (alligned with the sides of the chassis) full armoured plates, drilled out windows for inside details + l.e.d. for sentinel lighting on both the searchlight and inside the cockpit, poseable walker toes, legs, etc to allow base changes for different terrain fights. Some battle damage & accessories (like sandbags or decals) dang, now i'm pumped!, thanks TableTop Ackley, time to buy some magnets~ <3

Thanks for sharing your mistakes there [so I can avoid them] :) I notice you also didn't wear gloves to remove the supports before curing the resin. Not good. Great video though that let me take a look at, what is now an older printer which, if you can find one, is now a bargain.

Why Acetone vs thin polystyrene cement?

helpful video :) thx

The Tamiya products are great to use. and tried and tested....however can be pricey to make the glue/goo with, an alternate (and pretty sure I just commented on your earlier video), is consider using cellulose thinners....get much more qty for the $$$$ outlayed. Cheers from Sydney Aus!!!

Cellulose thinners works equally as well, if not betterand isn't as bad as acetone....apparently!!!!

Thank you!!

Try Lacquer thinner instead of acetone.............................................Or just use Tamiya regular thick cement.

Evergreen sheet styrene cut into small sheets added to Tamiya extra thin, the best recipe IMHO

While I intended to just magnitize the weapons (you are correct, people who would take issue with the leg panels are not worth playing with) I never thought about making the missle removable. It is indeed cool to show that my sentinal was "packing heat".

Great guide!!!

Green stuff (or other, cheaper, putty) will cure without being exposed to air, spruee goo won't will it?

THanks for this video, new to your channel, looking forward to see more.

Paint solution, particularly on wood: Rust-Oleum matte primer (after 10 years of crafting and testing all manner of primers, this is the one) and cheap Walmart Acrylics (Apple Barrel). $0.58 cents a bottle and go on terrain like a dream. Miniature paints are engineered for plastic minis and lack fillers that make the cheaper paints better for things like wood or paper. And for paper products, Mod Podge will seal it, protect it, and use far less paint. Pro Tip: Unless you want wood to look like metal beams or something, do not Mod Podge the wood or you will lose the wood grain.

If you use tamiya plastic cement, hold on to an empty bottle. Then buy tamiya air brush cleaner (which is pretty much the same as the plastic cement). Put aprue in empty cement bottle, then some of the cleaner. Now you can more easily use this sprue goo to cover up gaps in models.

LOL Been Using Testors Liquid Cement with Brush to Make it For 4 Years Now Its Great Stuff I'm 61 wished I'd know. About it For use on Model Cars as a Teenager

I had no idea that the z lift height wasn't limited, and you could actually go beyond! Thanks for these!

Good to see you back good sir

I use Testors Liquid Cement with Brush Because it produces Thicker Putty Than Tamiya Extra thin. I buiid Model Cars so it Works fir Filling Seams ir Filling Voids or Kaminating Sorye Together ut Will Even Repair A Body thats been Stepped On to the point When Finished You Can't tell it Was Damaged

can you do a magnetizing video for the leman russ? and the field artillery?

You weren't born with any privilege aside from not having an excuse to fail.

For the sentinel absolutely it's such an easy magnetization.

2:54 Wait for 24 hours but in some cases ok in a hour :P WTF

You could improve your Inprovements by improving them :) No, i have nothing usefull to say but it should help your Video because youtube algorhytm

Did you magnetize the antenna?

Love it! Been doing the same, 4-5 units for heavy weapons / melee weapon customisations. Admittidly I still heavily pray to the church of "blue-tac+glue" as opposed to sprue goo. So fill opening with Bluetac. put magnet on the torso and push it in.... mix the hole and bluetac with glue and mount magnet :)

Awesome vid, what's the lifespan of that glue on the shelf?

just starting a guard army, the video waas both informative and entertaining, will definetly use it on my 3 sentinels that I indend to get

You just saved me a bundle of cash, thanks man!