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MAKE MORE VIDEOS. SO THERE.

Why Acetone vs thin polystyrene cement?

helpful video :) thx

The Tamiya products are great to use. and tried and tested....however can be pricey to make the glue/goo with, an alternate (and pretty sure I just commented on your earlier video), is consider using cellulose thinners....get much more qty for the $$$$ outlayed. Cheers from Sydney Aus!!!

Cellulose thinners works equally as well, if not betterand isn't as bad as acetone....apparently!!!!

Thank you!!

Try Lacquer thinner instead of acetone.............................................Or just use Tamiya regular thick cement.

Evergreen sheet styrene cut into small sheets added to Tamiya extra thin, the best recipe IMHO

While I intended to just magnitize the weapons (you are correct, people who would take issue with the leg panels are not worth playing with) I never thought about making the missle removable. It is indeed cool to show that my sentinal was "packing heat".

Great guide!!!

Green stuff (or other, cheaper, putty) will cure without being exposed to air, spruee goo won't will it?

THanks for this video, new to your channel, looking forward to see more.

Paint solution, particularly on wood: Rust-Oleum matte primer (after 10 years of crafting and testing all manner of primers, this is the one) and cheap Walmart Acrylics (Apple Barrel). $0.58 cents a bottle and go on terrain like a dream. Miniature paints are engineered for plastic minis and lack fillers that make the cheaper paints better for things like wood or paper. And for paper products, Mod Podge will seal it, protect it, and use far less paint. Pro Tip: Unless you want wood to look like metal beams or something, do not Mod Podge the wood or you will lose the wood grain.

If you use tamiya plastic cement, hold on to an empty bottle. Then buy tamiya air brush cleaner (which is pretty much the same as the plastic cement). Put aprue in empty cement bottle, then some of the cleaner. Now you can more easily use this sprue goo to cover up gaps in models.

LOL Been Using Testors Liquid Cement with Brush to Make it For 4 Years Now Its Great Stuff I'm 61 wished I'd know. About it For use on Model Cars as a Teenager

I had no idea that the z lift height wasn't limited, and you could actually go beyond! Thanks for these!

Good to see you back good sir

I use Testors Liquid Cement with Brush Because it produces Thicker Putty Than Tamiya Extra thin. I buiid Model Cars so it Works fir Filling Seams ir Filling Voids or Kaminating Sorye Together ut Will Even Repair A Body thats been Stepped On to the point When Finished You Can't tell it Was Damaged

can you do a magnetizing video for the leman russ? and the field artillery?

You weren't born with any privilege aside from not having an excuse to fail.

For the sentinel absolutely it's such an easy magnetization.

2:54 Wait for 24 hours but in some cases ok in a hour :P WTF

You could improve your Inprovements by improving them :) No, i have nothing usefull to say but it should help your Video because youtube algorhytm

Did you magnetize the antenna?

Love it! Been doing the same, 4-5 units for heavy weapons / melee weapon customisations. Admittidly I still heavily pray to the church of "blue-tac+glue" as opposed to sprue goo. So fill opening with Bluetac. put magnet on the torso and push it in.... mix the hole and bluetac with glue and mount magnet :)

Awesome vid, what's the lifespan of that glue on the shelf?

just starting a guard army, the video waas both informative and entertaining, will definetly use it on my 3 sentinels that I indend to get

You just saved me a bundle of cash, thanks man!

That juice is not worth the squeeze

I think a simple solution is to mix small amounts of sprue goo in an empty Tamiya thin cement bottle. That way you have a brush already in the jar.

For the future: instead of Tamiya Super Thin Cement use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. The latter is nearly the same liquid as the former (49/51 split between butyl acetate and acetone instead of 50/50) but at a third of the price. If you can get your hands on pure butyl acetate, it might even be cheaper to mix your own glue, as you already have acetone. Edit: I should have read the comments before posting. All my points were already mentioned by others. 😅

Wow wow wow... wow

The localization issues REALLY screwed me up. Just got my resin today and thus just started printing. The manual made it sound to me like I was supposed to tighten the screws until the plate did not wobble, and then set the plate just far enough down that the paper takes a small bit of pull to get out from under it. Watching a few videos I now see where I went wrong and what caused my issues.

Thanks! I picked up the Combat Patrol earlier this week and this is exactly what I was looking for.

Your sprue glue was too thick. More acetone to sprue ratio.

I just got Mars and it will not recognize anything from ChituBox. Nobody seems to know anything about it other than "yOuR fIrMwArE nEeDs UpDaTeD" which is cool except it's running the latest version available from Elegoo. Anyone with ideas that might actually be helpful would be appreciated

Thank you, very detailed and helpful. Would you happen to have a list of the tools you use? Need to upgrade my drill bit set.

Very nice video! I'm doing something similar with my Catachan Sentinels. I will follow your progress, and hope to see more camo :D

I really liked how you painted the plasma guns! All the little lights and highlights look so good! Also I went to the effort to pause on your wall of text, very cute x)

Try using more acetone/glue.

This showd up at an appropriate time as I'm still working on mine. Unsure if I still want to magnetize.

I just got my Mars 3, but I already made two mistakes. I had a bad print and had a part stuck to the FEP film. I didn't do the tank clean correctly. I dumped out the resin, then cured the leftover resin in the tank with the "clean mode". And that is wrong. You're supposed to place an old bit of cured resin into a full tank to become a handle, and clean mode will harden the entire bottom of the tank as a single layer, and you use that old bit as a handle (wear rubber gloves), then pull out a rubbery layer of stuff with the bad bits locked into it. I just tried to scrape semi-hard bits off the FEP film, and that scratched it up horribly. So I replaced it. Off to Amazon to buy some FEP film, which is what the bottom clear plastic of the resin tank is. The second mistake was after I was done replacing the FEP film I cleaned the bottom of the tank with alcohol, but I used paper towel. Paper towels are abrasive. It scratched the FEP film to hell and gone. Luckily, I had bought a pack of 5 FEP films, but it was still embarrassing to just waste one before I had even used it. Well, now I know, and I still have 3 spares left. FYI, I now clean it using a spare swatch cloth that comes with my reading glasses, which is the silk-like fabric designed to not leave behind any bits of dust or strings. I'm back to printing again, and my BattleTech army is building to become 2 battalions instead of the single battalion I have of official mechs.

Great channel! Thanks for sharing all your tips!

This is a bit of a fad that comes around every few years. It started in the model air community, then showed up in the gunpla community, and now warhammer has found it, It certainly has some limited uses but allot of the time you don't need to go to this level of fuss, you just need to choose the correct plastic cement. You generally get thick and thin cements. These are a mix of butyl acetate and acetone (the solvents) and a thickening agent which slows the evaporation rate of the solvent. The longer the solvent contacts the part the more melted plastic you get. Regular Tamiya plastic cement is thicker, and evaporates at a much slower rate, This is designed to be painted on and is quite agressive. Once its had time to act you can again apply firm pressure to raise a bead, filling in the gap between parts. Tamiya extra thin is designed to wick into the gap between parts. It's not designed to be painted onto the mating surfaces. Your supposed to press fit the parts and then touch the brush to the seam, allowing capiliary action to wick the glue along the seam. Once it has had time to react with the plastic you can firmly press the parts together to create a bead along the seam. This glue was designed to be used on smaller thinner parts where the slower acting more agressive glues would cause damage. As your on this Journey the next thing you'll probably discover is that Tamiya Extra thin is just Acetone with Butyl Acetate in a 1:1 mix, Its essentially Tamiya airbrush cleaner in a smaller 10X more expensive bottle.. One of my go-to fillers for things like warhammer (where you have very small gaps) is Tamiya Liquid Primer. Its essentially a un-thinned surface primer. It has a consistency similar to thinned putty. Dip a tooth pick into the bottle and put a drip of it over your gap. Once it has dried it sands beautifully, and is great for filling seams.

Really like this video. I personally would have skipped magnetizing the cockpit as I can’t think of a time the body would need to come off the legs. But to each their own on that. 😊

This video has been one of the most helpful videos on this printer. Thank you! I’m having a hell of a time getting my prints to stick. They don’t stick to the plate so it’s been a rough few days with this printer. Even after sanding down the plate, adjusting the exposure settings and checking the balance of the machine and all

Love the FFAA shirt! 🤘🤘

sprue glue works a little better with tamiya extra thin cement I say this as its already a glue in its self and it atleast for me has worked better than the acetone it tends not to separate as much and also is easier in my experience to make thinner or thicker.... May cost a little more than acetone though but we'll worth it in my opinion

Dealing with FEP and build platforms, build plate are really mentioned anywhere...

Thanks for the funny AND helpfull Video 👍👍👍