2010 Range Rover L322 | changing the brake pads... and then getting it towed...
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- Опубликовано: 16 авг 2023
- Hi everyone!
Sorry for the short hiatus but I'm back!
My parent's Range Rover needed it's brakes changed so my dad and I did that with help from our friend Dante at the Last Chance Garage!
However, a week later we started having suspension problems :(
We're unsure if they're related but watch the video to find out everything that happened!
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Every car you touch is experience in technique and tools. Good job. We've all been there when our best efforts go sideways.
This is such a great perspective :)
Regarding those frozen and swollen lug nuts. My 1997 Land Rover has the original lug nuts and they are just fine. In addition to the fact I live in a relatively dry climate, a difference is that I either used grease or anti-sieze compound on the threads (I forget which) and that prevents rust, which is what causes both problems. Doing this IS a bit controversial, due to concern they will get over-tightened. But, hey, lug nuts and studs are pretty large and the torque of 75 to 100 ft lb really isn't that high (you were probably using 3x or 4x that to remove yours!)
Glad you were changing out those brake pads! The one that was broken was possibly an accident just waiting to happen! It also was good they
Calipers and brackets got cleaned up and rust removed.
I don't want to discourage you, am glad to see your interest tackling these jobs. But brakes are just about THE most critical system on a car and I had a few concerns...
First, the "pins" that attach the caliper to its mounting bracket needed to be wiped clean and lubricated. I didn't see that get done. Those pins have to move freely fir even wear on pads and rotors. There is a special high temperature brake lube grease for that purpose. The "clips" (anti-rattle) typically should not be re-used and and usually don't get greased.... but probably no harm done so long as those were in good condition. (Standard grease won't last, tho. High temp brake grease req'd.)
Wrong method of pressing the piston back into the caliper. If you must use a C clamp, put a block of wood between the piston and clamp face, to be certain pistion is pushed in squarely. If not pressed evenly and the piston tilts, oth it and the caliper can be damaged and start leaking or seize up.
You appeared to be handling the pads with gloves you had just worn while applying grease to the clips. It is very important to keep grease off the pads' friction surface, or it will foul them and make the brakes less effective. You also should have used brake cleaner (spray can) on the rotors, both sides, to be certain no grease had gotten on there... for the same reason.
Probably the reason you couldn't retract the pistons in the rear calipers was NOT that they were seized. Pribably it was the parking/emergency brake. On most cars with rear disc brakes a special tool is needed to rotate the piston at the same time it is being pushed back into the caliper. I don't know for certain this was the case, because your Rover is newer. Older ones DID NOT require this tool and method because their parking/emergency brake is done with a drum that's completely separate from the rear disks.
Regarding the broken sensor wire... no big deal. Those only serve purpose of turning on a warning light when pads are excessively worn. Most pads also have another built-in wqrning that will make noise when too worn. Occasional inspection of the pad thickness should catch any problem even before any warning, anyway. Note: it fairly often is necessary to change brake rotors at the same time as the pads. I could not see the condition of your car's so don't know whether or not it was wise to only change out the pads. If after some 500 milees there is uneven braking or vibration when braking, rhat might be the problem. It is much more involved, changing the rotors on a Rover.
Air suspension... read the car manual. It probably needs to be set to a certain level or put into a service mode before raising all four wheels on a hoist. This may not be necessary when only one wheel is jacked up... so if you had done as you originally planned, might not have been any problem. Aside from the leak, I think the air ride system was trying to "re-learn" after the work. When it asked "confirm ride height", Dad might have done the opposite by setting knob to "high". I suspect that "told" the system it was already sitting high, even though it was obviously lowered. Again, check the manual.
Frankly, those air ride systems are prone to problems. They sell "air bag delete" kits to convert to standard springs as the ultimate solution. But that means a less comfortable ride and the ride height would no longer be adjustable.
Should you change out the struts yourselves? I can't say. I have springs and standard shock absorbers on my Discovery (replaced the terrible OEM/Land Rover components with MUCH better Bilstien shocks and Old Man Emu springs).
I have replaced struts on othet cars... but they weren't air ride. That adds another layer of complexity.
If you change them yourselves, there probably is a "re-learn" needed for the air suspension, either some procedure or possibly requiring a computer. Search RUclips and elsewhere online for info.
Oh, and once the struts are installed, a wheel alignment will probably be needed.
Wow this is such great advice, I’m glad we know now for the future I appreciate the help!
Great video Saige. You are a natural infront of the camera. Looking forward to your next update. Cheers, Steve
Aw thank you Steve :)
Yay! The most adorable car channel on RUclips is back. Thanks Saige
Aw thank you!!
Take care of it and it will take care of you!! ☺️
Range rover doing range rover things... :P
Use Advanced Factors in the UK for parts
Ditch all the locking lug nuts. Replace all 20 with new.
like your car passion keep it up. Canada in the house
Thank you!
Good luck to you and your dad with the Range Rover. Regardless of whether you end up taking on the work ourselves or having it done by a shop, this highlights one of the beautiful things about your Spitfire is its inherit simplicity. You mentioned taking college-level chemistry, I'm curious to know if you are planning to study in the Sciences or Engineering going forward. Whether that is the case or not, you are currently getting some great real-time education when it comes to the vehicles in your family. P.S. Dante's garage is awesome.
I’m planning on taking Kinesiology so sports/athletic science! And you’re right it makes me thankful how much simpler my Triumph is :)
I liked the rover lowered. looked awesome 😂
Definitely a different look!
If you want to do it yourself look for videos or intructions first ,blogs, forums etc. Working on the more modern vehicles can be complicated, and special tools could be needed. Have helped my son do work on his Porsche Cayenne turbo with air suspension and it is very different than most North American engineered vehicles. Good luck with whatever you choose.
That’s a great idea we’ll do that thank you!
There were a few mistakes here. Before lifting the car it has to be put in service mode or deflate the airbags completely. And to push the piston back in, it can be done electronically through software which is the preferred way. And with the suspension fault, maybe it needs to be recalibrated after being lifted aka over extended. As a shot, turn the steering wheel all the way right and then all the way left then back to center. Edit; leak could have happened from improper lifting.
Thank you for sharing all this! It’s unfortunate we didn’t realize we needed to put it in service mode first but at least we learned our lesson for next time :)
Range Rover was always my dream car
Very Nice vídeo! Yes Fix the Rover and make a video. BTW There’s a great place in Florida that rebuilds the Airbags Strut assemblies for Range Rovers! They’re called Arnott Industries.
I’ll look into them thanks!
Oem parts are original Land Rover parts from the factory from rimmer brothers.britcar also supply Land Rover parts here in the uk.the pedastool base where the airbag fits corrode hence air leaks on bag.when jacking never let the air bags hang or they over reach and pop off or not reseat correctly hence airleaks👍.
Good to know for next time, thanks!
Yeah your dad is on the right line, there’s an air leak somewhere and the compressor is working overtime hence the cool down message…
Also surprised nobody has mentioned it but those rear discs look way past their service limit?
That makes sense and I’ll look into the rear discs and find out, thanks!
Air suspension almost always needs to be "locked out" when hoisting the vehicle. Check your manual for wheel change, it's most likely there.
Thanks for letting me know I’ll check!
❤❤
Why didn't you change the rotors?
We just decided not to this time around :)
Hope you don't work on it with the retro 4's 😅 Take care of them they look good on you❤
Haha you’re right wearing them was definitely a mistake!
Do you follow Adam from Living with a Classic in Sweden ? He does mainly Jaguars but he has the sameSupercharged Range Rover that he has done several jobs like that on it...
I’ll have to check him out!
Ah yes, British cars doing British things😂 The look of those brakes also makes me happy to live in the south. Good Luck with that Range Rover!
Haha thanks!
Unfortunately with the air suspension the vehicle needs to be put in service mode before raising the wheels or the car off the ground. Hence the error code.
Wow that’s unfortunate but good to know thanks :)
Not so for L322. They likely have a leak in the system somewhere and are burning out the compressor by driving still.
@@davidwalker72 good to know!
Bonjour Saige & Dad! :) You managed a complete engine teardown to the last bolt & nut... so no doubt you'll be able to cope with it !! 😜
(are you sure the problem was the air bags and not just one of the plastic air feed pipes ?)
As someone suggested, tutos on youtube can be of great help.
Rimmer Bros did this one for the L322 : ruclips.net/video/uEn3-8IvavU/видео.html
Not very difficult. I think both front wheels need to be lifted to release tension through the anti-roll bar links => So safety first! use good axle stands on a concrete floor and put wedges on the rear wheels.
Strut lower bolts will need to be torqued up stoutly using solid spanners. (don't break it Dad!..😂)
Good luck!
I really appreciate this! My dad ended up taking it to a shop because it was stranded 4 and a half hours away from me so we weren’t able to work on it together
It's a Range Rover. What did you expect.
Fix the Rover, and show us.
It's a range rover. They come ruined straight from the factory.
😉 "PromoSM"