Ep. 30 | will we finally get the crankshaft nut off??
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Hi everyone!
I am so motivated to get this car running so there should be lots of content coming!
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You could have saved yourself a whole lot of grief getting the screws out of that front engine cover with a hand impact screwdriver. Not expensive (around $25 US on Amazon), it is a simple tool that's used in conjunction with a hammer to loosen slotted and Phillips screws.
The reason some of those screws were so difficult was rust. They thread into the front engine plate and the end of the slotted screws are exposed on the back side, where moisture can get in over er time, causing corrosion.
Triumph deliberately used slotted screws in those places, so that there was less chance of them being over-tightened and stripping out the threads in the frond engine plate. Once you have all those screws out, plan to chase the threads with the correct size tap, to clean up the threads before installing new screws.
I don't know about Spitfire specifically, but some Triumoh engines have slotted screws that thread into aluminum sealing blocks where care must be taken to not over-tighten. Also some Triumph engines have bolts elsewhere in the front engine plate that go through into oil galleys or coolant passages and require extra sealing (such as a copper washer).
The "slack" in the timing chain is normally taken up by the spring tensioner mounted inside the front engine cover,.probably wasn't as bad as you think.. Even so, on any engine with unknown mileage I would always recommend a new timing chain and sprockets... they simply aren't all that expensive and are a big job to replace, so not worth reusing old ones. DO NOT buy just the chain. Definitely get a new sprocket set too. (The hard part will be getting the cam shaft and crankshaft "timed" correctly when you put the engine back together... you may need professional help with that.) The single row chain and sprocket will be fine so long as you are setting up a mostly stock engine (i.e., not "high performance").
Before removing the crankshaft, check that the bearing caps are marked so that they can be put back in the same location and orientation.
Use care when pulling out the cam shaft. If I recall correctly, the Spitfire engines run the cam directly in the block, has no bearings that can be replaced. Any damage in there may be expensive to repair.
The white coat is quite the choice. I don't even have the presence of kind to keep my black jackets clean, couldn't imagine what I'd do to white
You are making good progress with the tools that you have at hand, but you should seriously think about getting some proper tools. An electric impact wrench would have saved you a lot of time and grief with that crankshaft nut. Also you should get a set of SAE sockets and wrenches since your engine doesn't use metric fasteners.
If you are going with a stock rebuild an original single chain should be good enough. Obviously a double chain would be more sturdy as a build.
Im so glad my crankshaft-nut came of with one hit on the 46 brass knuckle wrench. I had some movement there, which wasn't that good...
Love what you’re doing, for whatever reason if you choose pain I have gt6 hood and a tr6 engine you can put in there.
Obviously you’ve seen I like doing things the hard way! I’d love to hear more details about the engine, send me an email to saigeaurora1@gmail.com!
you and your dad are hilarious. timing chain --- use a brand called Iwis for the spitfire. you don't have to bother with a duplex chain and the added expense of new cam and crank sprockets. the Iwis single chain is pre stretched from the factory. it's a high quality chain. visually it looks like your old chain is quite stretched, don't reused it. check if the sprockets are aftermarket too as they may not be hardened as sprockets wear too. looks like someone else was in that engine before and may have used some bodge jobs and probably some cheap parts - possibly to just get it running to sell.... some time ago. they may have just guessed at torque settings too instead of using a torque wrench. when you assemble the thing use thrust washers that pin to the block. you'll save yourself future headaches. here's a youtube link to what i mean about pinning thrust washer. cheers. ruclips.net/video/7WvgYw80FLk/видео.html
a small propane torch does wonders
Crazy tight nuts and bolts… I would have given them lots of firm whacks with a hammer first to shock them a bit looser and encourage the penetrating oil to get in and do its stuff.
Get a pack of Brillo wire soap pads and spend a couple of hours cleaning up the engine !
Great choice the white jacket 🎉
Now when you put new bolts back in use anti seize!
I suspect that engine has been worked on before. That crank pulley nut shouldn’t have been that hard to remove (if not seized on with corrosion) and it looked like the oil slinger (dished washer on the crank gear) was installed backwards. The dished side should face forwards. That’s how it is on my TR6 and I can’t imagine why it would be different on a Spit, but am prepared to be corrected…
Hi. Yes you're right , the oil slinger was fitted backward. Very same part as TR6 one :)
Very interesting. You are learning quickly.
You may be money ahead if you look into a rebuild kit. They include a lot of the parts, like a timing set, for one price. For street use this may be the way to go. I am currently going to use one on my Ford v-8 for my motorhome.
Bonjour Saige & Dad! Nice video, good job done (except bent flywheel bolts!!..).
"Duplex" timing chain is not needed in your case, because it's a std engine, not a fast road one. But you should use a good quality "simplex" chain such as the IWIS brand available at Moss Motors (part 832 111).
Very cheap chains are sold everywhere but they are very poor quality, made in asia, and will look like your old one after only several thousands miles of use..
From the video the crank timing gear is totally shot and needs replacing. Timing gears need to be renewed as a pair but if you are money tight, I suggest you simply reuse the pair from the original engine if in good condition. Same for the tensioner and the pulley nut (still the nut could be reused with some light flat filing to restore the grooved sides..).
Finally inspect thoroughly the flywheel bolts for straightness and replace any if in doubt!
Most importantly ensure the rear crank threads are ok and have not sheared..
As already said, flywheel to crankshaft attachment is critical for your safety so be sure all is spot on in this area (including flatness across the rear crank surface. You can level out any small bumps using a fine grade large & flat oil stone).
Courage!🤞🤞🙂
From the looks of it you can probably still save that crankshaft nut with some careful use of a file. Though have you got the one from the scrap engine still? That’s a good general point, you have a whole spare engine so check what’s useable from that before buying anything (e.g. the flywheel bolts you just damaged, they’re a very specific spec, so easiest route is to use some originals if you have them). Your timing chain will need replacing. Check the timing gears for wear too, and don’t reuse them if so!
Well you finally got it apart but OMG.
I wish I could find the name of the sadistic English engineer who put slot head screws on the timing chain cover for these engines. I’d make him take off every one ever produced.
Saige, I also had a Beetle like yours. I liked the car, but beware the Puddle Sucker. That is, there is a very low opening for the air inlet to the engine. If you get into even a shallow puddle, it can suck it right in. Ask me how I know.
Nice attire for working on an engine-just saying, ill get my coat.
I can't say I've ever seen a spitfire crank nut that tight before. Good job getting it off. Don't bother with changing to a double row timing chain. If you were racing the Spitfire then yes, but it's a street car and a single row chain will be just fine. However, you should definitely replace the chain and possible the gears due to wear. Your chain definitely looked stretched.
well-done
Some of the best content on the internet on how NOT TO disassemble an engine. Never use the right tool when a very large pipe wrench or hand drill grinder will really make your life miserable. At least you keep the white coat well washed and spot free.
replace the chain - slack in the chain means the valve timing is not optimal and the distributor drives of the cam shaft so the slack means your distributor timing will be all over the place as you accelerated and decelerate - check the teeth on the sprockets they should not show evidence of being curved - dual row chains are nice if your doing high rev engines but stock single row is good enough for stock engines - just dont go over board with valve springs - you can reuse the ones that came of the head if they test ok for pressure BUT remember to check and make sure the head matches the block ie 1300 head 1300 block - timing marks - there should a dimple on each gear thats your alignment mark - check your haynes (its your friend)
before you go to much further time for some forensics - why were the bolts and screws so difficult to get out ? cross threaded? threads galled ? i would suggest borrowing some taps and dies and check the treads in the bolt holes and especially the thread on the nose of the crank - if the nut was cross threaded or the thread is galled the tread will need repairing or a new crank
I would be inclined to have the crank ground in any event - or at least get the crank to the machine shop and check it for out of round (ovality) and while your there get everything acid bathed to clean up all the old gunk and rust - acid bath every thing block, crank, rods, nuts, bolts, head, sump, every thing - while your checking things check the bores in the con rods for size and ovality
if you have access to a supply of triumph bolts use them but if you dont the slot head screws are referred to in the bolt industry as cheese head any industrial bolt supplier ought to be able to supply new bolts and screws (give them samples to match)
you will need to carefully scrape all the old gasket material of the top of the block DONT use scotch bright wheels unless you plan to face the head - if you face the head you then need to look at the head gasket - from memory there are 2 types early (flat blocks) or late with recess groves around the cylinders like yours - from memory if you skim the block you need to change to the early head gasket - check with your machine shop
There is not a lot you can do with the camshaft - regrind or reuse as is - but i would suggest you either replace the lifters or get the old ones refaced (regrind the bottom) ( you can put new lifters on an old cam but NEVER put old lifters on a new cam)
dm
The cringe value of your channel is phenomenal, it's a good job that you're having so much luck. Does Rusty beautys watch them and cry? x
That music is truly horrible!!
For heaven sake get a P.O. box, you are in desperate need of tools and info. x
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