Ep. 20 | Rusty Rotors, a Rainy Car Show, and an attempt at changing Brake Pads
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Hi everyone!
Today's video is a bit of a compilation of everything that's happened recently. I came across a car show that had some rain and a rainbow! I cleaned off my rusty brake rotors and transmission, and I tried to change the brake pads on my parent's Range Rover.
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Yellow = universal
Opening the cap releases the huge amounts of pressure built up, allowing the level to drop. You can always use a rag for protection and slowly open the cap while pushing down until you hear pressure flying out and the level will drop safely .
Gg ezy dubs
Oh interesting thanks!
Great video Saige with a nice group of cars at the show. The owners have spent a lot of time on their cars and deserve a big 👍. Cheers, Steve
Yes they were beautiful!
Bonjour Saige & Dad :) Nice video! Don't worry too much about surface rust , it remains quite easy to remove. Steel wool works as you show it, but is more suited to badly pitted chrome plated parts. you can try using emery cloth (not too coarse grain) instead..
On Spitty parts: You don't retain flat top pistons : Dommage! as it's really free extra power (not mega!)👍
Range: Many things can cause overheating: bad ignition timing, too lean fuel mixture or air leaks on inlet, low coolant level, external leaks (hoses), a bad overflow bottle cap not keeping rated pressure, air pockets when filling full cooling system too fast, a stuck closed thermostat preventing coolant flow towards radiator, a broken water pump or belt, a defective electric cooling fan or switch (hmm.. we don't hear it on the sequence). Worst cause is internal leaks inside the engine..☹
Enthusiasm still stays on even under heavy rain..!
"we believed we'd catch the rainbow, ride the wind to the sun.." as the song says... 🙂
Finger crossed for your exams 🤞
Wow so lots of possible problems with the Range Rover! Hopefully we figure it all out
Fluid film on any exposed metal on the body. Don't worry about rust on brake rotors. Even new cars get rust on rotors if they sit for a while. Braking on the road will remove the rust.
That’s great to know thanks!
Keep on plugging away, Saige! You're going to be a Spitfire expert.
Thank you!
Your dad is nuts! Haha was scaring me with no rag opening coolant tank😭
Haha yeah he’s crazy!!
Fun video!
Thanks!
Good luck on your exams, also glad to see you back working on cars. You probably have had a thousand comments on different cleaners to use so here is one more... i use dollar store over cleaner. its as good as brake cleaner but much cheaper.
Thank you :)
Fill up with water to get you home.
Your wheels are off a Triumph Dolomite Sprint. I've had two.
That’s awesome! I really love my wheels
Nice rims on your spitfire.
Thanks :)
Yes just like Tr4 said spray it down with WD40. But you go girl and get those test's down and study hard! The Triumph is not going anywhere. The car show had great looking cars and hope you get the RR over heating fixed.
Thank you for the support!!
Spray all the metal bits with WD40 to hold back the rust (WD stands for Water Displacement).👍 Its also good to help free nuts/bolts.
I’ll do that thanks!
Don't spray WD40 on brake parts. You don't want to contaminate them with oil.
@@neilrogers8931 it’s fine to spray the disks/drums now, as the car is far from being drivable. It will keep rust from pitting the surfaces. Just remember to clean them with brake cleaner at final assembly time (or any time you work on brakes). After all, new disks are stored/shipped covered in an oil film to protect them from rusting.👍
However once they are cleaned, if ridges or pits are present on the brake surfaces, they need to be machined smooth before use.
@@TR4Ajim after all....new brake rotors are stored/shipped with oil on them
@@frankstrobel4350 on old British cars they’re called “disks”. You know like “boot” and “bonnet”. Hence the term “disk brakes”
High school exams, in the summer? Man Canadas different, good luck though!
I’m in summer school, normal school ends in June!
Ohh, sorry for the misunderstanding, good luck still though!
I took summer school two years in a row, then found myself about to "accidenally" graduate at 16! I was already a year ahead (due to moving around in a military family, not because I'm all that smart). Dropped a class to delay graduation... what the heck would I do out of school that young?
Even so, after I graduated I went into construction and had to lie about my age (hazardous work req. 18 years old in Colorado).
@@saigesgaragesummer school? Wth is that. Man Canada and usa are different
❤❤🚘
Don't worry about the brake discs. You will probably want to change them along with new brake pads. Use a rust inhibiter such as POR Metal Prep and POR 15 Rust Preventative Coating for surface rust on the frame. Use WD40 on the bell housing and other mechanical parts. You removed the undercoating in the engine compartment, the black stuff you scraped off.
Ok I’ll do that thanks!
Don't panic Saige. Rust happens and isn't the end of the world. That's mostly just "surface rust", unless you leave it for too long.
Regarding the Land Rover... just put a sturdy scrap of wood on too of the jack, which will increase its reach. Probably a 4x4, considering the RR's ground clearance.
Pad replacement is an easy job, but MUST be done right. Brakes are the most important system on a car!
Regarding the rust on your car... After cleaning and "converting" it, I suggest you get at least some primer on the bare metal frame parts.
Do NOT paint the brakes or transmission. Do NOT use oil or WD40 or fluid film on the brake rotors unless you will be replacing them and the pads. Anything you put on the rotors will contaminate the pads and lead to poor braking.
I recommend you put some grease on the shaft protruding from the transmission and spray WD40 on the throwout bearing and its cross shaft, then cover up the bell hpusing and all inside it with a secure plastic bag to keep dirt and moisture out. Tape the bag in place or use bungee cords.
Don't use steel wool. It sheds fine particles the cause more rust in short order. You also don't want the particles of steel getting into any of the car's mechanical parts... engine, transmission, suspension, etc. Steel wool is also dangerous around electrical systems. It can actually be used to start a fire when even a small current is shorted through it. Instead use something like Scotch Brite or kitchen cleaning pads. They don't promote rust the way steel wool does and don't conduct electricity.
Finally... did I hear you say there are washers on the wheel studs, between the wheels and the hubs? I don't think those should be there. The wheel should fit up right against the hub. Maybe someone added them to space the wheels out just a little because of a clearance problem. If needed, there are proper wheel spacers that are more precise than "washers", but it's best if no spacer is needed.
All this is meant constructively... overall you are doing great and it will be fun when you have time again to work on your car.
I’ll keep all this in mind thank you!