Ep. 32 | exciting things are happening for the Triumph!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Exciting things are happening for the Triumph!!
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Dear Saige, please know that I am sending nothing but positive thoughts your way. It looks like you found a much better machine shop this time around. (If I remember correctly, the first shop failed to magnaflux your original block, which is why you did not learn of the crack in it until afterwards.) Hopefully your trip helps the time to pass faster!
Another great video, and don't sweat things like re-using the original connecting rods....keep costs down where you can and if viewers have a problem with it then it's their problem!
Glad you have it straightened out and you can start getting it back together.
Saige, it was a mistake to buy thrust bearings before you install the crank and measure for them. I think I mentioned this before: stock thrust washers have a thin coating of bearing material and wear quickly. You should wait until you have the spec on the crank clearances and then order thrust washers of the proper size from Custom Thrust Washers. (I have no connection with them.) They make all alloy ones to your spec. If they are a bit tight, you can "linish" them on a flat plate of glass and some very fine wet/dry sandpaper. I got the minimum 4 thou clearance on my Spit and I know they will last a long time and not give me worries about wearing through the Babbitt material.
keep the spares but give them a good coating of rust preventer and wrap then to stop water getting on them you never know when you will need them
Ask Elin or Dan about new head bolts. They are always recommended when rebuilding an engine. Good luck and have fun with the rebuild.
If I remember correctly the Triumph head is held in place with studs and nuts. I think Saige used the double nut method to remove the studs. However I agree might be a good idea since she and her dad removed the old studs that new hardware and a nice head gasket would be cheap insurance that there is no head failures in the future.
I was going to suggest new head studs, too. I recommend ARP. They're more expensive, but are the best and probably have a complete kit specifically for a Spitfire.
Head gasket is a MUST, too. I can't advise what is best for Spitfire... maybe others can make suggestions.
Since the head will require re-torquing after 300 miles or so, I would also recommend trying to find a silicone valve cover gasket. Those don't require any sealant and can be reused (unlike the old style cork gaskets).
If it were me, I would also replace the timing gears, along with the chain and tensioner. Those gears aren't expensive, but if the old ones are at all worn will need replacement sooner rather than later and it's a difficult job with the engine back in the car.
Hopefully the connecting rods and their respective caps were kept together. (ARP makes upgraded bolts for those too, if needed).
Saige, buy a quart of Lucas Oil Treatment... the really thick stuff. It makes a great engine assembly lubricant, which is an absolute necessity. It stays where you put it, then easily mixes with the engine oil. You need to put that on all the bearing surfaces to protect them initially, when the engine is finally restarted. (There is also a trick with an electric drill to operate the engine's oil pump before starting it, to prelude with the oil as well... Elin has shown it in some od his videos.)
You will need an engine oil "high in zinc", to break in the cam and cam followers properly.
Speaking of oiling, the oil pump should be carefully inspected amd replaced if not in spec. And be sure to blow through all the oil passages to be sure they are clear. (Also use air to clear the threaded holes for head, main bearings, etc. Those must be clean and free of any oil or moisture that might prevent things from fully seating.)
In fact, Elin has a number of engine building videos. Watch those and take notes. Chris Fisher (Roundtail Restoration RUclips channel) also provably has some Soitfire engine building tips (more recently has been building a TR4 engine, which is similar).
Its good practice to change them same as flywheel converter bolt things like that u change anytime u touch! im sure the this motor could use them but its prob 80hp max so head bolts/studs i dont think are a big deal
Stock studs are good quality and can often be reused when threads are not damaged. Always wire brush them by hand. Fit the shortest thread with a cut on towards the block.
Conversely Spitfire head nuts should not be reused. they won't hold torque and are prone to shear.
This is also the case if you use new "normal" nuts as available everywhere.. Use uprated nuts instead.
Part n° cam4545 is std BMC part and is uprated & cheap.
ARP fasteners are $$$$ and really only necessary on race & fast road engines. 😊
Every comment I have read here makes sense particularly the hardened valve seat they are a must do. Just to ad though chains and sproc
kets for the cam drive will probably will need replacing but even more important is the oil pump it is the engines heart week heart sick engine
Bonjour Saige & Dad :) Great news for your engine really, and a very informative video! (even if the skimming process doesn't show your very own cylinder head ). Now you can't be beaten on engine innards! 👍👍
By opting for your former cylinder head you won't match the 9:1 compression ratio of the 76 engine, but something closer to 8,5:1 which is still better than the 7,5:1 from your 73 engine.
Apparently pushrods are the same in both cyl. head versions and they do not need to be changed in order to match head thickness variation.
You'd be wise to carefully check the oil pump at the shop or put a new one.. (don't use the one from 73 engine though as it had eaten some metal chips...)
Dad should use special circlip pliers if he does not want to.. Bang the new engine! ;)
Fitting piston circlips is critical. circlips are punch made so often have a rounded side and a flat side with sharp edges.
Put the flat/sharp edge side outwards to hold loading, not towards piston pin.
New circlips are very fragile and you SHOULD NOT! compress them more than what is needed to just put them in (Bang otherwise).
Beware, pistons are not symetrical and must be oriented on the conrod (arrow on the top must point towards front of engine).
Beware, piston pin and location in piston + conrod bush must all be oiled before fitting.
You can help fitting pistons without any damage/scratching by putting them in a can of warm water (not boiling water!) for several minutes before fitting the pins. Alloy expands and so fitting is by finger.
Beware, conrod bolts must be very slightly oiled on the threads and under the head. Torque to 44 or 45 lbf.ft with a good & checked torque wrench.
Beware, conrod cap is only fitted one way round: easy to spot: Both bearing locating lugs should be on the same side.
Here's a link for everything engine: ms-motorservice(dot)com/int/en/technipedia/installation-of-engine-bearings-69
Good luck!😉
What a great job and you have learned a lot and you have wonderful to watch.
Thanks for sharing the block being "shaved ". Sounds like you've found a great mechanic!
Great progress being made!! Can't wait to see the next video!!
when things have been machined, putting it all together is really fun. just my two cents.... make sure to use plastigauge to make sure everything truly is in spec on bearings. make sure to use new quality connecting rod bolts. don't use the old ones. they stretch with toque. and lastly use a good torque wrench. cheers.
Fantastic Saige, great to see the engine is all good with no cracks. You must be so excited to get it all back together. I love getting new parts it's so pleasing.
You are a ray of sunshine ... Girl power ...
you're back! x
So you freaked me out with the skirt and the nails for a second. Glad you have the Tigers cap.
Anytime u have any part of an engine apart or even a completete engine when ever ur in a position to change any part seal bearing wateva that is hard or impossible to get to u do it all why its in pieces yeah might not b needed and will add to bubget but will save u wen u start driving and will save time n money in the long run.
If I were you, I would change out the small end bushes while you are there they are or should be relatively cheap. Another thing as well, if you are intending to re-assemble the pistons and con rods yourself, please purchase a good set of circlip pliers. The way the old ones were taken out just made me cringe. I would also advise that you have your machine guy install the pistons and con rods unless you have a compressor for the piston rings. All in all though you are doing a credible job.
Will the head be machined for hardened valve seats for modern fuel ?
Good content! !
Hi Saige, I'm pleased to see you are making progress on your Spitfire. I left some feedback and suggestions yesterday, but just watched something you might find useful.
In this video yout machine shop was focusing on reconditioning the cylinder head, which is important. But there is also the rest of the engine to ccnisider.
Jim's Automotive Machine Shop channel here on RUclips shares a lot of insights into what they do. It just so happens they are working on the bottom end of a 4 cylinder Jeep motor that is similar in design to a Spitfire's. Below is a link to an 1.5 hour video that goes into good detail about the processes involved. In particular, note how important it is that all the matched compinents are properly and carefully kept together. I hope yiu find thos informative:
ruclips.net/video/aP1UM5QXKxg/видео.htmlsi=I6lAnJ7JeRAioN-a
great videos
Analous message ?😳😆