This is the pinned comment, will update my tier list when new paint ranges with new yellows come out. In the meantime, check out my hand-painted colour swatches for Citadel, Warpaints Fanatic, Vallejo & more: www.patreon.com/stahlytaleofpainters/shop PS: To avoid any confusion, it‘s Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow, not Sun Yellow.
Can't wait for a review of Vallejo's updated model range. I used the Game Color swatch for getting my first collection of paints. Works as advertised, though nothing prepared me for how different the consistency is compared to the Citadel line.
I recommend trying out the Golden So Flat paint range, specifically in this case, their Permanent Yellow. It has all the properties of a miniature paint, except it is very matte, and it has incredible coverage. I've gotten complete coverage over black in one thinned coat before
@MichaRabiej Permanent Yellow has no cadmium. It uses pigments PY74 and PY53. This paint line does include some paints with toxic metals (like cadmium), but Permanent Yellow is not one of those paints
There are only a handful (6-ish) of commonly used yellow pigments used in acrylic paint. All of these paints are using one or more of them. And all yellow pigments, bar one, have very low opacity. For opaque, saturated yellow, the only real choice is Cadmium Yellow, which (to my understanding) none of the hobby paint companies uses, for fear of toxicity issues. But if you don't eat your paint, Cad Yellow is unmatched. Try Golden SoFlat Cadmium Yellow Medium, which is dead flat and unbelievably saturated, with excellent opacity for yellow. Note that this is a bit thicker than a typical hobby paint. If you don't want to deal with the thickness, you can get the same pigment in the Golden Fluid Acrylic range, but that's high gloss, so you'll need to flatten it. I use Reaper's Anti-Shine Additive personally, but there are other choices. And of course if you use varnish, a matte varnish should solve any problems. Further note that much the same is true of reds. The only really good reds are Cadmium reds.
The fear of toxicity should not be downplayed. Airbrushes are extremely prevalent in our hobby and atomizing cadmium in an airbrush would be extremely bad to breathe. Paints containing toxic heavy metals like cadmium (as well as cobalt) are not something the majority of hobbyists would even consider. Professional painters are not only more aware of this, but basically don't use airbrushes and are likewise used to handling more toxic chemicals like thinners.
@@Weaver_Games Hobbyists have long been using organic thinners. Hobby enamels have been very standard for decades and the use of oil paints for glazes is standard in both plastic model building and common in figure painting. That said, there is definitely a danger to aerosolizing heavy metals, which is why the Vallejo cadmium colors (since removed from the market, I think) had "no airbrushing" warnings on the bottles. Of course, rattle cans are very common in hobby painting as well, and they're quite dangerous inhalation hazards as well. Further, eating or inhaling acrylic monomer solutions is not an ideal health choice, yet many (most?) figure painters do one or both regularly. (I include myself in that up until maybe 15 years ago; I decided to stop specifically because of the health issues.) Finally, while many paint companies claim to use "non toxic" ingredients, that only means that they're using ingredients that haven't been proven to cause toxicity problems _when used as intended_. My bottle of Vallejo Rojo, 70.926, says, in various places, "Non toxic", "Contains Cadmium", and "No Health Labeling Required". So relying on your favorite paint company to keep you safe isn't necessarily a golden path to health. Your health is your responsibility, because you're likely the only one who cares enough. ("Safety Third", to quote Mike Rowe.) Pay attention.
Been painting for decades: still have some cadmium stuff arround in the workshop, and it's super easy to forget about it. Kudos to anyone pointing out that stuff bc not everyone knows or cares, yet not caring doesn't mean you shouldn't know (I'm looking at the 'he doesn't care about chemistry lessons comment). Knowledge is power, much like knowing why white behaviour is like it is (titanium) and its counterparts (zinc if I can recall it right) and what makes a good metallic (mica vs aluminium). I find it great when people expand the topic in the comments section. Even if I already knew it feels right to see people sharing it.
Yellow doesn't "suck", it's just that most mini painters insist on applying it directly over black like savages! Even opaque artist yellows like bismuth and cadmiums work best over suitable backgrounds - underpainting is a very useful skill to learn, and certainly isn't restricted to yellow. I often use yellow oxide here (VMC yellow ochre and VGC heavy ochre look like solid choices, though I don't own either), introducing red oxide for more orange tones, but one could equally use something like pale sand or a pastel pink for more translucent yellows. If you buy paints solely based on their ability to cover black, you're missing out on some wonderfully rich colours and limiting your options. True transparents, for example, are the most flexible colours to have at your disposal - it's just a matter of learning how and when to use them.
It is true that the undercoat matters a lot. I have heard that people really like pink undercoats to their yellows and oranges, but I have yet to try it much. I do appreciate this video’s format, however. It challenges the paint, even if it is silly to paint over black. The point for me is to see a comparison of the paint performance. Perhaps a better way would be to rate individual characteristics of the paint, like opacity, flow, separation, working time, how well they thin, etc. That way, each person could apply their own weighting factors based on their application. For instance, if you always undercoat, perhaps you don’t care about coverage as much, and want better flow properties.
Yah mixing single pigment artist acrylics over a yellow ochre would be the best bet. I like AK light brick as primer for yellow then using Vallejo heavy goldbrown then working up from there for a good range of depths. Saying chimera is bad because of coverage is like saying PVA is a bad glue because your minis fall apart, it's a tool and you are using it for the wrong application.
@@jakelilevjen9766Pink primer with white zenithal combined with express/speedpaint/contrast paint, depending on what brand you like, makes yellow one of the easiest colors (and pre-highlights your models to the point of replacing edge highlighting if you're doing large forces). Simply priming pink and using normal yellows also makes those normal yellows far easier to use, if that's more your speed.
Thanks for your feedback, and I understand your point. I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
I primer almost exclusively in white, but still struggle with yellow using a brush. I recently bought a light red primer and will try that. I just mask off and airbrush anything I need yellow these days. I get a better result that way.
I follow the wisdom of Vince Venturella. Yellow needs an undercoat that works with the paint, not against it. If you are smart, you can get shadows, midtone, and highlights in one go.
I did this same test with most of these brands and Reaper came out on top for me. Can you please please please do a review of Reaper Paints? They are a great paint line but get almost no love and there are no good reviews of them on YT. Would love to see your take on them.
kimera warm yellow usess PY83 pigment, it is Diarylide Yellow. This is by definition transparent yellow, like a "contrast paint". I see no point to take a transparent panit and complain it is transparent. Just use them as you use transparent paint: for glazing, or add some white as you are supposed to.
I don't think the marketing of kimera makes it clear and mixing leads to issues with consistency across armies. I think the point is if you need to "research" a paint it probably is going to be misused frequently.
@@timwalker7871the citation: "Some colors are more transparent than others. For example magenta, orange, cold and warm yellows and the phtalos are more transparent but very powerful and saturated. If you want to increase coverage you can add some white or some black in the mix without fearing that you’ll get desaturated colors." this is from manufacturer's website, and is copied to most of the places that sell them.
@MichaRabiej "more transparent than others" looking at this test you are basically having to mix a bespoke paint with each use. More transparent than others should read, "more like an ink in a gel medium". I think as a hobby paint his score is entirely justified.
@@timwalker7871Exactly yes, "ink in gel medium" - this is exactly what transparent paint means. Truely transparent paint over dark will never be yellow, it will be still black. Like contrast paint. His score is based on not reading the manual. Product is as advertised.
Thanks for putting in the work on this. Putting down 4-5 layers of yellow is a disturbing amount of work. People at home, you don't have to do this to get good coverage. Just lay down a mustard yellow to get your opacity, then 1-2 coats of your brighter yellow should do fine. And if you must do a yellow-heavy army like Imperial Fists, owning an airbrush is pretty much a lifesaver. It's an entirely different experience working with yellow (or green, orange) and you won't hate yourself for working with those colors anymore.
Stahly doing the hard miles so we don't have do yet again! what a great, thorough assessment and helpful to understand how properties of paints works etc. Thanks mate.
One thing to note about paint consistency: thin versus thick paints is certainly a point of subjective preference, which is why I happily accept you putting the Warpaints Fanatic in the A tier rather than S. However, depending on the environment you are in thinner paints don't work too rgeat on wet palettes. For example, Pro Acryl tends to become very watery even when I don't thin it with water myself. Again, this is influenced by the environment and I think my reservoir just evaporates pretty quickly, thus adding more moisture to my paints. Thicker paints require more thinning, but will remain stable on your wet palette for longer, plus they are better suited for techniques like drybrushing.
Availability of brands are quite rediculous now. I personally find it very tedious to pick "best paints" and hunting for a shitton of different brands, so I've picked Vallejo (game and Xpress) and rather adjust my painting technique a little than having dozens of clors from different brands.
Missed Golden paints and liquidex paints. The latter is acrylic guache. The golden paints also have various consistency ranges. Would love to see these added.
Hi. As someone new to painting I REALLY appreciate your video. One thing that would be beneficial is at the end a bit more of a zoom in on the higher tier paints and their names please 😊
9:18 I used Reaper for the first time a few weeks ago with two ochre colors, they are slightly thin but I like the two colors I got. I might user more, but they are not my main paint brand.
The Kimera Colors are awesome...if used properly though (and not intuitive for army painters). Some pigments are strong, some rather offer low coverage. As some of Kimeras own videos suggest: Mix the first layer with a little bit white to increase coverage, then go back to pure color. On the other side: Kimera´s colors aren´t really meant to be used directly, but due to the mono pigment nature offer the best results while mixing (no falsifying of color due to already mixed colors). It really depends on what you want to use the colors for: Army painting? DON´T TOUCH KIMERA (imo)! Single miniatures? Go for it (they also work awesome with other colors to tint them in the proper direction).
I always like your reviews. You are easily one of my favorite mini-painting youtubers. That being said, I wish you'd include the regular War Colours paint line in your videos. I'd like to see how you feel their Yellow 3 and Yellow 2 stacks up against the other medium yellow paints.
Not surprised that Duncan's range finishes as high as it does. The chemists that developed those colours seem to really know what they're doing and have it figured out. AK finishing highly also doesn't surprise me. I got a bottle of RLM 4 yellow from their aircraft series. It's very close to Citadel's Yriel, but behaves simply wonderful on a brush. Gel-like is the term I've been looking for to describe a lot of yellows. They can be very thick colours.
@@PrzybyszzMatplanety except gold. Vallejo metal color gold is probably the worst gold paint I have ever seen. You can mix it to be excellent though, but it is a hassle.
Thank you for the interesting video, yellow is always a hot topic. I'd like to share my thought on Scale 75. While I respect your opinion and I understand your point of view, I disagree. I'm a long time Scale 75 colors user (standard, fantasy and artist range since they came out) and I remember how switching over from citadel was a pain in the ass. But once I finally understood how they work, I never looked back. I really love how they behave, their vibrancy and their transparency (which is one of their strenghts to me). They are a very powerful tool in the hands of a little more patient painter. Ultimately, this is a very subjective matter, so to each their own I suppose. Keep up the good work!
Yeah, I don't feel comfortable showing my face on the internet but felt it was kinda mandatory to appear in person to be successful on RUclips. So the mask is a bit of a compromise, a little piece of fabric I can hide behind.
Cheers for the effort making a very helpful resource for a colour many struggle with. Though I find it odd that the only two paints in S tier missed the brief and are closer to yriel yellow.
Currently waiting for my warpaints fanatic starter set, really looking forward to giving the new daemonic yellow a go after seeing this even more! It looks perfect for that bad moon ork tone of yellow.
I love the reaper deep purple paint they make I can’t remember the name of it but over black primer it went in like a dream. My first paints were a reaper starter set and I fell in love with them they thinned so easy for me and as a beginner at the time they were easy to work with it and made my start in the hobby smooth.
Khimera are actually as a range really good, the yellow imo should go over a brown or pink undercoat and for mixing paints I don't think there is a better range due to the single pigments.
I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
@@stahly_taleofpainters Thanks for the clarification however I would suggest in future you deselect the paint that is not designed to deliver on that objective in other words the right tool for the right job etc. Or atleast explain why such paints are not included.
if you want opaque yellow add some white, if you want pure pigment use either bismuth vanadate yellow or cadmium yellow. Just don't eat them, and wash hands after painting, before you fetch a sandwch.
One thing I will say for flash gitz yellow is it truly is meant to be used as a glaze over colors like averland sunset and screaming skull. It produces a rich and warm yellow that way.
Great review. Please do more of this type of review format. Now that you have a starting comparison, I look forward to the addition of other brands like Ammo Mig, Huge Miniatures, Mr Hobby, Mimetic etc too. Shame we can't see older hobby acrylic paints in this comparison like Ral Partha, Armory etc.
Thank you for your high quality reviews! Surprising results from GSW. Are their acryl paints generaly good? I saw they have also reworked the old formular
I wonder if you combine the TT Yellows to get that right shade, since they are each on both sides of Flash Gitz. That would be a interesting experiment, pretty much mixing your own (with the same brands of course) to create the formula you want. Maybe a idea for a follow up video?
they actually have released some medium yellows thru a second kickstarter wave that i got my hands on! My favourite range, some of the colours like blue violet are incredible
I'd like to see Golden SoFlat Permanent Yellow. I use it pretty regularly, and found it can go on anything in two coats. Then again, I'm not a pro painter. As for Reaper, I use Reaper for most everything. The yellows do separate a lot, and I've never been happy with those, but other colors produce extremely smooth results and have excellent color range and pigmentation. I would argue they're my favorite line, though Two Thin Coats is coming up fast behind them.
Can you do this for other colors as well? For example I don’t own many blues. So, I want to add new ones to my collection for various levels of saturation and value. When I search youtube I only get Vince’s how to paint blue, but I am looking for different blues. I would like to see your favourite blues from different ranges.
I use mostly Reaper paints, I picked up one of their mega sets at a great price and I love them, especially their consistency. But yeah their yellows are not great, I tend to use imperial fist contrast over white for a basecoat and highlight with reaper yellow after. Their metallics have some issues as well but work for dry brushing and sponging which are my preferred approach to metal (really any metallics work for this approach even craft paint)
This is really thorough the only line I could think of not here is Warcolors someone else mentioned, although those are really meant to be glazed and Coat D’arms.
I wish that you'd also included P3 Heartfire! Sure sure, it's a bit more-orangey than many of the yellows, but it wouldn't even have been the most-orangey yellow in the video, not by a few places!
I very much appreciate your explanation of the challenges of finding a balance between opacity and saturation in these paints. A very good presentation.
Yellow is probely the paint in the kimera range that needs mixing the most, i use kimera all the time and own all the paints they have done, even stuff thats not out for normal retail yet. A lot of the kimera paints needs to be mixed with a stick mixer to get them mixed and to the consistensy that its supposed to have. Try to mix them with a stick mixer or stir them up with a coffeé stirer. I am also realy looking forward to the ultracryl kickstarter to forfill, got the full range
@@nucnuc7591 they have a discord for the kickstarter backers and they released a bunch of info on them, and the cromatic part of the lineup sounds very intresting and i have real high expectations for the brand
I'm only 2 minutes and 35 seconds in but most yellows look damn nice and quite vibrant over a light pink surfacer or base. I airbrush Gunpla, but I've been practicing my hand with brush painting on smaller details or pilot figures, but I've found that this still applies!
This is why it's important to learn about pigments. What you review is the coverage of the paint, not the paint. Except cadmiums, every yellow pigment is transparent, like milled stain glass. Cadmium is expensive and toxic so it's not used in hobby paints so the easy trick to get good coverage with yellow is to get a warmer yellow with lots of ochres and titanium white in it. This explains why your S tiers paint are so warm, they have a lot of ochres (opaque pigment) and white (opaque too)
These kinds of comparison videos are very helpful. I've been a long time Reaper paint fan. I still think they're pretty good overall, though I can't argue that newer yellows and oranges have much better coverage. Maybe it's time to move on from my 20 year old bottles of paint 🙂 Though I did just replace a few colors I was out of. I rescured the pewter skull agitators from the old bottles to put in the new ones since they don't put those in any more.
The first Bones Kickstarter got me back into the hobby so I've been using Reaper paints too. I really like them except for their terrible label printer that often leads to faded, unreadable labels.
Same here, have a number of Game color paints and never had any bubbling. It may be related to a number of reasons, from a particular batch defect to an improper storage temperatures.
I have a couple dark green Reaper paints that are really really vibrant and add a lot of depth to other greens, I also have pretty much the whole purple range because they actually have a good range of purple paints.
Suggestion for next time if you decide to do an update: Acrysion Base Yellow by Mr. Hobby. It's a Japanese hobby paint that's water based and can be diluted with either water or their special thinner.
Stahly please will you review artists paints i am very interested in what upu think about them compared to different miniatures paints brands. I am also quite Curious how well artists paints like Goldern, Liquitex and Winster & Newton would have faired in this test. Also please do paint conpaions for different colours.
Amazing list, nice work. Unfortunately most aren't available where I live lol I paint my House Hawkshroud knights with Imperial Fists yellow contrast paint, no streaking over big flat panels makes it amazing for mechanical models (I don't have an airbrush due to my living situation). Just have to make sure the undercoat is one solid colour, any difference in the undercoat will show through the yellow.
20:26 This is basically the solution for this alleged problem. Just use something like Imperial Fist Contrast over white primer and don't bother with yellow anymore. You can even mix it with a conventional white paint to get a colour highlights. I am painting Red Scorpions at the moment and yellow is the easiest colour to paint by far.
The bubble issue in the new Vallejo Game color range is so bad I am shocked that Vallejo has not pulled all thier product from the store shelves and go back to drawing board and release a “fixed re-formula”. Also shocked that Vallejo themselves has not addressed the bubble issue. It ruins paint jobs like crazy. Had such potential as the coverage is great and creamy paint but what’s the point in painting with them when bubbles will ruin your paint job especially when painting larger surfaces with a base coat.
Very interesting video. Ive painted a couple yellow armies (Lamenters, Iyanden and Imperial fists). One of the OGs of the best yellows that works great for air brushing and paint was the Tamiya brand. Ive heard good things from AK and have seen them in action. My issues with Pro Acrylics is they can be sometimes thin or chalky. I love Reaper Paints and was one of the early testers of the brand. Never used yellow though.
I'd be interested to see how Warcolours' One-Coat Yellow compares to the paints in this test. For me it generally hasn't been a one-coat paint but it does seem to cover well by the standards of the limited number of yellows I've tried and it's definitely brighter than something like Averland Sunset. Spotlight Yellow is one of the few TTCombat paints I've got. I've barely used it but it didn't really stand out when I did - I'll have to give it another shot at some point! And I do have one Reaper Master Series paint that I used. Their Blackened Brown is basically like Rhinox Hide in a dropper bottle and that means I use it a lot.
Love these type of videos. Id love to see one for alot more colors. Im thinking pro acryl is consistently the highest but doesnt win alot. I love the vallejo ice yellow though. Favriote yellow.
I think kimera makes only sense if you're willing to mix colors. Out of the bottle many of them don't work. You have to mix some white in or other yellows to get a good coverage. I love kimera because it allowed me to learn a lot about color theory, color mixing and pigments but I hate it because for army painting it isn't very practical unless you're willing to document your colour recipes.
I still use a few reaper paints, I like their ghost white, linen white, leather white, aged bone, and vampire skin fairly well. Coverage can be an issue with a few of them but I like the colors so I put up with it.
Glad to see Reaper paints was in the review. I’ve been using them for over a decade and haven’t had any issues. Then again, I was never dumb enough to try to paint yellow over a black undercoat.
Good informative video. But I feel like the take on the Kimera color is wrong. I’ve used Kimera yellows, both the warm and the cold tones and if used properly I’ve painted some great display pieces. I’m no master but they’ve done well by me. Keep it up though!
Great vid. I’m not a huge fan of kimera at all. I will say shaking isn’t enough if you’ve not used much. You need to stir. Might get slightly better results. I also would enjoy over white or a gradient to see the vibrancy. I got ttcombat and I agree they’re fantastic.
I though if you painted a light brown/brown undercoat that helps painting yellow? Generally I've found Vallejo and AK to have the best quality (and consistency of paints), Scale 75 is good as well.
Both Kimera and the Scale 75 Artist line are designed primarily for miniature painting. If you don't like them, that's cool, but suggesting they aren't designed for mini painting is incorrect.
I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
I paint mostly with TTCombat and Duncan Rhodes, with a little bit of Pro Acryl, on that note great job! I agree completely. I actually find TTCombat to have the best balance of vibrancy/saturation and covering power, with Duncan Rhodes a close second.
I definitely use Reaper, it's fairly accessible, but the problem is they advertise very little. I like their consistency, it's somewhat pre-thinned, so you can use it right out of the pot. Not a huge fan of their metallics though.
IIRC Vallejo suggested years ago that people experiencing bubbles in the old Game Colour (and Model Colour) range should *roll* the bottle between their hands rather than shake them. I do the same for those ranges and finds it helps (I've always found bubbles to be a minor problem with dropper bottles, including AK) but haven't used the new Game Colour enough to know if it has the same effect.
Reaper Master Series are really underrated. Their skin tone triads are the bomb. Dark Elf Shadow has become one of my go-to shading colours - a desaturated black magenta, essentially an acrylic Payne's Violet.
I use some Kimera paints and they are a mixed bag as far as coverage goes. The Red is incredible, and the signature sets are really great (the bone color is the best color for bone, IMO). The yellows are the hardest of that range to work with, in my experience. Pro Acryl, AK or Golden So Flat are the only yellows that don’t make me miserable when I use them.
As usual, the most informative and comprehensive material available on youtube. This has been stellar. I hope you can do saturated medium reds next and I can't wait for the new Model Color review, since the old ones form the bulk of my paint collection.
Add a drop or two of dish detergent to your tapwater and Tamiya brushes fine. In this playlist, Nightshift shows how to mix up a glaze level effect paint using Tamiya and some basic supplies. ruclips.net/p/PLdMxG_XHdQUax4m4hj9tGpiOLTuK1PUY7
About Reaper... they have like 9 o 10 yellow paints that run the gamut from "might as well be transparent ink" to "Competative against almost anything." I use almost exclusively Reaper, myself. Sun Yellow is also one of the oldest yellows in the line, as the SKU shows.
Thank you for this video! I've read that oil paint is opposite to acrylic paint in that the lighter colours have the best coverage. We should check out if that's true :)
Yep, it’s me again. That one guy who uses Reaper paints. These were my first set of what I (at the time) considered serious paints, as I had had enough of the Citadel pots. I felt fancy having dropped bottles. They are inexpensive, and I enjoyed their triad system. They have been my mainstays for over 10 years, but are finally showing their age. Time to move on. Pro Acryl, perhaps?
This is the pinned comment, will update my tier list when new paint ranges with new yellows come out. In the meantime, check out my hand-painted colour swatches for Citadel, Warpaints Fanatic, Vallejo & more: www.patreon.com/stahlytaleofpainters/shop
PS: To avoid any confusion, it‘s Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow, not Sun Yellow.
I bought some of these swatches and they're very useful for me trying to match Citadel schemes to the new warpaint fanatic line!
Can't wait for a review of Vallejo's updated model range. I used the Game Color swatch for getting my first collection of paints. Works as advertised, though nothing prepared me for how different the consistency is compared to the Citadel line.
I recommend trying out the Golden So Flat paint range, specifically in this case, their Permanent Yellow. It has all the properties of a miniature paint, except it is very matte, and it has incredible coverage. I've gotten complete coverage over black in one thinned coat before
@@regnarissadCadmiums are opaque yellows, all other are more or less transparent.
@MichaRabiej Permanent Yellow has no cadmium. It uses pigments PY74 and PY53. This paint line does include some paints with toxic metals (like cadmium), but Permanent Yellow is not one of those paints
Out here doing the Emperors work.
Huh. So even this man has pivoted into the german speaking painting guides....
Hello you! Oh wait. Luetin, not Larry
Loyal servant to the true emperor....
If this becomes a series, it will be the best videos on miniature painting!
Agreed, I can't understand why nobody has thought of this format before.
Probably because it‘s quite time-consuming to make… will tackle more difficult colours if this video gets good views!
Totally agreed
YES! Would love more of these tier videos on other specific colours!
Agreed!
There are only a handful (6-ish) of commonly used yellow pigments used in acrylic paint. All of these paints are using one or more of them. And all yellow pigments, bar one, have very low opacity.
For opaque, saturated yellow, the only real choice is Cadmium Yellow, which (to my understanding) none of the hobby paint companies uses, for fear of toxicity issues. But if you don't eat your paint, Cad Yellow is unmatched. Try Golden SoFlat Cadmium Yellow Medium, which is dead flat and unbelievably saturated, with excellent opacity for yellow. Note that this is a bit thicker than a typical hobby paint.
If you don't want to deal with the thickness, you can get the same pigment in the Golden Fluid Acrylic range, but that's high gloss, so you'll need to flatten it. I use Reaper's Anti-Shine Additive personally, but there are other choices. And of course if you use varnish, a matte varnish should solve any problems.
Further note that much the same is true of reds. The only really good reds are Cadmium reds.
Bismuth Vanadate Yellow is the next best thing to that. Sad that he didnt test good yellows but only miniature paint yellows.
Totally agree with you nothing beat cadmium. But, they are toxic, so no brush in the mouth...
The fear of toxicity should not be downplayed. Airbrushes are extremely prevalent in our hobby and atomizing cadmium in an airbrush would be extremely bad to breathe. Paints containing toxic heavy metals like cadmium (as well as cobalt) are not something the majority of hobbyists would even consider. Professional painters are not only more aware of this, but basically don't use airbrushes and are likewise used to handling more toxic chemicals like thinners.
@@Weaver_Games Hobbyists have long been using organic thinners. Hobby enamels have been very standard for decades and the use of oil paints for glazes is standard in both plastic model building and common in figure painting.
That said, there is definitely a danger to aerosolizing heavy metals, which is why the Vallejo cadmium colors (since removed from the market, I think) had "no airbrushing" warnings on the bottles. Of course, rattle cans are very common in hobby painting as well, and they're quite dangerous inhalation hazards as well.
Further, eating or inhaling acrylic monomer solutions is not an ideal health choice, yet many (most?) figure painters do one or both regularly. (I include myself in that up until maybe 15 years ago; I decided to stop specifically because of the health issues.)
Finally, while many paint companies claim to use "non toxic" ingredients, that only means that they're using ingredients that haven't been proven to cause toxicity problems _when used as intended_. My bottle of Vallejo Rojo, 70.926, says, in various places, "Non toxic", "Contains Cadmium", and "No Health Labeling Required". So relying on your favorite paint company to keep you safe isn't necessarily a golden path to health. Your health is your responsibility, because you're likely the only one who cares enough. ("Safety Third", to quote Mike Rowe.) Pay attention.
Been painting for decades: still have some cadmium stuff arround in the workshop, and it's super easy to forget about it. Kudos to anyone pointing out that stuff bc not everyone knows or cares, yet not caring doesn't mean you shouldn't know (I'm looking at the 'he doesn't care about chemistry lessons comment).
Knowledge is power, much like knowing why white behaviour is like it is (titanium) and its counterparts (zinc if I can recall it right) and what makes a good metallic (mica vs aluminium).
I find it great when people expand the topic in the comments section. Even if I already knew it feels right to see people sharing it.
Yellow doesn't "suck", it's just that most mini painters insist on applying it directly over black like savages! Even opaque artist yellows like bismuth and cadmiums work best over suitable backgrounds - underpainting is a very useful skill to learn, and certainly isn't restricted to yellow. I often use yellow oxide here (VMC yellow ochre and VGC heavy ochre look like solid choices, though I don't own either), introducing red oxide for more orange tones, but one could equally use something like pale sand or a pastel pink for more translucent yellows.
If you buy paints solely based on their ability to cover black, you're missing out on some wonderfully rich colours and limiting your options. True transparents, for example, are the most flexible colours to have at your disposal - it's just a matter of learning how and when to use them.
It is true that the undercoat matters a lot. I have heard that people really like pink undercoats to their yellows and oranges, but I have yet to try it much.
I do appreciate this video’s format, however. It challenges the paint, even if it is silly to paint over black. The point for me is to see a comparison of the paint performance.
Perhaps a better way would be to rate individual characteristics of the paint, like opacity, flow, separation, working time, how well they thin, etc. That way, each person could apply their own weighting factors based on their application. For instance, if you always undercoat, perhaps you don’t care about coverage as much, and want better flow properties.
Yah mixing single pigment artist acrylics over a yellow ochre would be the best bet. I like AK light brick as primer for yellow then using Vallejo heavy goldbrown then working up from there for a good range of depths.
Saying chimera is bad because of coverage is like saying PVA is a bad glue because your minis fall apart, it's a tool and you are using it for the wrong application.
@@jakelilevjen9766Pink primer with white zenithal combined with express/speedpaint/contrast paint, depending on what brand you like, makes yellow one of the easiest colors (and pre-highlights your models to the point of replacing edge highlighting if you're doing large forces). Simply priming pink and using normal yellows also makes those normal yellows far easier to use, if that's more your speed.
Thanks for your feedback, and I understand your point. I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
I primer almost exclusively in white, but still struggle with yellow using a brush. I recently bought a light red primer and will try that. I just mask off and airbrush anything I need yellow these days. I get a better result that way.
I follow the wisdom of Vince Venturella.
Yellow needs an undercoat that works with the paint, not against it.
If you are smart, you can get shadows, midtone, and highlights in one go.
I accepted Vince Venturella as my lord and savior.
With exception of cadmium yellow that is.
I did this same test with most of these brands and Reaper came out on top for me. Can you please please please do a review of Reaper Paints? They are a great paint line but get almost no love and there are no good reviews of them on YT. Would love to see your take on them.
The promised yellow paint video has arrived! This is everything I wanted and more! May your brushes long keep their tips!
kimera warm yellow usess PY83 pigment, it is Diarylide Yellow. This is by definition transparent yellow, like a "contrast paint". I see no point to take a transparent panit and complain it is transparent. Just use them as you use transparent paint: for glazing, or add some white as you are supposed to.
I don't think the marketing of kimera makes it clear and mixing leads to issues with consistency across armies. I think the point is if you need to "research" a paint it probably is going to be misused frequently.
@@timwalker7871 They explicitly say that warm yellow is transparent.
@@timwalker7871the citation: "Some colors are more transparent than others. For example magenta, orange, cold and warm yellows and the phtalos are more transparent but very powerful and saturated. If you want to increase coverage you can add some white or some black in the mix without fearing that you’ll get desaturated colors." this is from manufacturer's website, and is copied to most of the places that sell them.
@MichaRabiej "more transparent than others" looking at this test you are basically having to mix a bespoke paint with each use. More transparent than others should read, "more like an ink in a gel medium". I think as a hobby paint his score is entirely justified.
@@timwalker7871Exactly yes, "ink in gel medium" - this is exactly what transparent paint means. Truely transparent paint over dark will never be yellow, it will be still black. Like contrast paint. His score is based on not reading the manual. Product is as advertised.
I always appreciate your methodic way of looking at paints!
Thanks for putting in the work on this. Putting down 4-5 layers of yellow is a disturbing amount of work. People at home, you don't have to do this to get good coverage. Just lay down a mustard yellow to get your opacity, then 1-2 coats of your brighter yellow should do fine.
And if you must do a yellow-heavy army like Imperial Fists, owning an airbrush is pretty much a lifesaver. It's an entirely different experience working with yellow (or green, orange) and you won't hate yourself for working with those colors anymore.
COntrasts really do the job better than most acrylics with yellow.
Imperial fists over white undercoat. 1 coat. Done.
Mayybe some edge highlights.
Stahly doing the hard miles so we don't have do yet again! what a great, thorough assessment and helpful to understand how properties of paints works etc. Thanks mate.
One thing to note about paint consistency: thin versus thick paints is certainly a point of subjective preference, which is why I happily accept you putting the Warpaints Fanatic in the A tier rather than S. However, depending on the environment you are in thinner paints don't work too rgeat on wet palettes. For example, Pro Acryl tends to become very watery even when I don't thin it with water myself. Again, this is influenced by the environment and I think my reservoir just evaporates pretty quickly, thus adding more moisture to my paints.
Thicker paints require more thinning, but will remain stable on your wet palette for longer, plus they are better suited for techniques like drybrushing.
Availability of brands are quite rediculous now. I personally find it very tedious to pick "best paints" and hunting for a shitton of different brands, so I've picked Vallejo (game and Xpress) and rather adjust my painting technique a little than having dozens of clors from different brands.
Great video you should 100% make this a series going through all base colours. So helpful especially for new comers to hobbying. Great video.
Missed Golden paints and liquidex paints. The latter is acrylic guache. The golden paints also have various consistency ranges. Would love to see these added.
Please do more videos like this, doing all the reds would be awesome.
Hi. As someone new to painting I REALLY appreciate your video.
One thing that would be beneficial is at the end a bit more of a zoom in on the higher tier paints and their names please 😊
9:18 I used Reaper for the first time a few weeks ago with two ochre colors, they are slightly thin but I like the two colors I got. I might user more, but they are not my main paint brand.
The Kimera Colors are awesome...if used properly though (and not intuitive for army painters). Some pigments are strong, some rather offer low coverage. As some of Kimeras own videos suggest: Mix the first layer with a little bit white to increase coverage, then go back to pure color. On the other side: Kimera´s colors aren´t really meant to be used directly, but due to the mono pigment nature offer the best results while mixing (no falsifying of color due to already mixed colors).
It really depends on what you want to use the colors for: Army painting? DON´T TOUCH KIMERA (imo)! Single miniatures? Go for it (they also work awesome with other colors to tint them in the proper direction).
I am painting my 10mm with Kimeras and I am really enjoying the process.
Excellent review! I would absolutely love one on Orange paints
I always like your reviews. You are easily one of my favorite mini-painting youtubers. That being said, I wish you'd include the regular War Colours paint line in your videos. I'd like to see how you feel their Yellow 3 and Yellow 2 stacks up against the other medium yellow paints.
5:54 - How’s Blazing Yellow on a miniature? It’s cousin, Cyber Yellow was pretty bad. Do you have a short of something showing it?
Not surprised that Duncan's range finishes as high as it does. The chemists that developed those colours seem to really know what they're doing and have it figured out.
AK finishing highly also doesn't surprise me. I got a bottle of RLM 4 yellow from their aircraft series. It's very close to Citadel's Yriel, but behaves simply wonderful on a brush.
Gel-like is the term I've been looking for to describe a lot of yellows. They can be very thick colours.
That should become a series!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉
dude thank god for this - I've tried so many yellows and most of have been terrible. You're the man Stahly
Do metallic golds pleaseeee! Gold is such a frustrating colour to paint with and this would be super helpful!
Pro Acryl has IMO the best metallics on the market. Mix bronze with rich gold and it’s an amazing color.
Retributor gold is our lord and saviour
@@Pine_AppolePro Acryl aren't the best on the market for sure. That spot is reserved for Vallejo Metal Color.
@@PrzybyszzMatplanety except gold. Vallejo metal color gold is probably the worst gold paint I have ever seen. You can mix it to be excellent though, but it is a hassle.
Reaper paints have a great metallic range. You just can't find them.
This is an amazing idea for a video format!!
Thank you for the interesting video, yellow is always a hot topic. I'd like to share my thought on Scale 75. While I respect your opinion and I understand your point of view, I disagree. I'm a long time Scale 75 colors user (standard, fantasy and artist range since they came out) and I remember how switching over from citadel was a pain in the ass. But once I finally understood how they work, I never looked back. I really love how they behave, their vibrancy and their transparency (which is one of their strenghts to me). They are a very powerful tool in the hands of a little more patient painter.
Ultimately, this is a very subjective matter, so to each their own I suppose.
Keep up the good work!
Hataka (violet line) D005 Yellow... hands down the best yellow I've painted so far.
Your initial TTcombat range review was what got me to jump into their most recent paint kickstarter, so thanks for that! Very, very good stuff
Thank you! oh BTW home come you wear the nmask? Privacy reasons?
Yeah, I don't feel comfortable showing my face on the internet but felt it was kinda mandatory to appear in person to be successful on RUclips. So the mask is a bit of a compromise, a little piece of fabric I can hide behind.
@stahly_taleofpainters i get it, I wouldn't feel comfortable either....but I'm butt ugly so it's probably for the best haha
Love your videos. Very informative. Keep up the good work, your content is pure quality!
Cheers for the effort making a very helpful resource for a colour many struggle with. Though I find it odd that the only two paints in S tier missed the brief and are closer to yriel yellow.
Thank you, this is great. Appreciate the review and clarity. Def will give two thin coats a try later.
Currently waiting for my warpaints fanatic starter set, really looking forward to giving the new daemonic yellow a go after seeing this even more! It looks perfect for that bad moon ork tone of yellow.
I love the reaper deep purple paint they make I can’t remember the name of it but over black primer it went in like a dream. My first paints were a reaper starter set and I fell in love with them they thinned so easy for me and as a beginner at the time they were easy to work with it and made my start in the hobby smooth.
Khimera are actually as a range really good, the yellow imo should go over a brown or pink undercoat and for mixing paints I don't think there is a better range due to the single pigments.
@@Elfhelm Chalked up sir
I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
@@stahly_taleofpainters Thanks for the clarification however I would suggest in future you deselect the paint that is not designed to deliver on that objective in other words the right tool for the right job etc. Or atleast explain why such paints are not included.
if you want opaque yellow add some white, if you want pure pigment use either bismuth vanadate yellow or cadmium yellow. Just don't eat them, and wash hands after painting, before you fetch a sandwch.
And never put them through an airbrush.
@@wasmic5zyes, that too.
One thing I will say for flash gitz yellow is it truly is meant to be used as a glaze over colors like averland sunset and screaming skull. It produces a rich and warm yellow that way.
Great review. Please do more of this type of review format. Now that you have a starting comparison, I look forward to the addition of other brands like Ammo Mig, Huge Miniatures, Mr Hobby, Mimetic etc too. Shame we can't see older hobby acrylic paints in this comparison like Ral Partha, Armory etc.
Can i asi you one cuestión?
What brad do you recomend for new ? Layering opaciti matt finish etc
Thanks you a lot
Thank you for your high quality reviews! Surprising results from GSW. Are their acryl paints generaly good? I saw they have also reworked the old formular
Yeah, they're pretty good, a bit on the thinner side though.
I wonder if you combine the TT Yellows to get that right shade, since they are each on both sides of Flash Gitz. That would be a interesting experiment, pretty much mixing your own (with the same brands of course) to create the formula you want. Maybe a idea for a follow up video?
they actually have released some medium yellows thru a second kickstarter wave that i got my hands on! My favourite range, some of the colours like blue violet are incredible
Great video, i revently bought the one tier patreon pdf for onecoat paints and it is perfect to see which paints to buy
I'd like to see Golden SoFlat Permanent Yellow. I use it pretty regularly, and found it can go on anything in two coats. Then again, I'm not a pro painter.
As for Reaper, I use Reaper for most everything. The yellows do separate a lot, and I've never been happy with those, but other colors produce extremely smooth results and have excellent color range and pigmentation. I would argue they're my favorite line, though Two Thin Coats is coming up fast behind them.
Yes but on his Patreon's paint tips, Stahly recommend Reaper for some triade like flesh. He doesn't reject the brand either.
Can you do this for other colors as well? For example I don’t own many blues. So, I want to add new ones to my collection for various levels of saturation and value. When I search youtube I only get Vince’s how to paint blue, but I am looking for different blues. I would like to see your favourite blues from different ranges.
I use mostly Reaper paints, I picked up one of their mega sets at a great price and I love them, especially their consistency. But yeah their yellows are not great, I tend to use imperial fist contrast over white for a basecoat and highlight with reaper yellow after. Their metallics have some issues as well but work for dry brushing and sponging which are my preferred approach to metal (really any metallics work for this approach even craft paint)
This is really thorough the only line I could think of not here is Warcolors someone else mentioned, although those are really meant to be glazed and Coat D’arms.
I wish that you'd also included P3 Heartfire! Sure sure, it's a bit more-orangey than many of the yellows, but it wouldn't even have been the most-orangey yellow in the video, not by a few places!
I very much appreciate your explanation of the challenges of finding a balance between opacity and saturation in these paints. A very good presentation.
Always great vids. Always heaps of great info
Scalecolor Artist / Kimera not for miniature painting? 😅
Yellow is probely the paint in the kimera range that needs mixing the most, i use kimera all the time and own all the paints they have done, even stuff thats not out for normal retail yet. A lot of the kimera paints needs to be mixed with a stick mixer to get them mixed and to the consistensy that its supposed to have. Try to mix them with a stick mixer or stir them up with a coffeé stirer. I am also realy looking forward to the ultracryl kickstarter to forfill, got the full range
The Ultracryl is also on my list. Hope it delivers on the promises :)
@@nucnuc7591 they have a discord for the kickstarter backers and they released a bunch of info on them, and the cromatic part of the lineup sounds very intresting and i have real high expectations for the brand
I'm only 2 minutes and 35 seconds in but most yellows look damn nice and quite vibrant over a light pink surfacer or base. I airbrush Gunpla, but I've been practicing my hand with brush painting on smaller details or pilot figures, but I've found that this still applies!
This is why it's important to learn about pigments. What you review is the coverage of the paint, not the paint. Except cadmiums, every yellow pigment is transparent, like milled stain glass.
Cadmium is expensive and toxic so it's not used in hobby paints so the easy trick to get good coverage with yellow is to get a warmer yellow with lots of ochres and titanium white in it. This explains why your S tiers paint are so warm, they have a lot of ochres (opaque pigment) and white (opaque too)
Is it vallejo moon yellow or sun yellow in your test? The bottle you show is moon yellow but you say sun yellow.
Moon Yellow, sorry for the confusion
These kinds of comparison videos are very helpful. I've been a long time Reaper paint fan. I still think they're pretty good overall, though I can't argue that newer yellows and oranges have much better coverage. Maybe it's time to move on from my 20 year old bottles of paint 🙂 Though I did just replace a few colors I was out of. I rescured the pewter skull agitators from the old bottles to put in the new ones since they don't put those in any more.
The first Bones Kickstarter got me back into the hobby so I've been using Reaper paints too. I really like them except for their terrible label printer that often leads to faded, unreadable labels.
Personally never had an issue with vallejo game color. Gonna go experiment to see if I can make bubbles cause now I'm curious
Same here, have a number of Game color paints and never had any bubbling. It may be related to a number of reasons, from a particular batch defect to an improper storage temperatures.
Hi ! Is your plastic square sheet the GSW models ? And will you publish your actual yellow swatch ?
Yeah it's from GSW
I have a couple dark green Reaper paints that are really really vibrant and add a lot of depth to other greens, I also have pretty much the whole purple range because they actually have a good range of purple paints.
Totally offtopic - could you tell where you got those awesome shelves? :)
Awesome video as well!
Ikea Platsa with some custom-build acrylic slide doors :)
@@stahly_taleofpainters thank you mate!
Suggestion for next time if you decide to do an update: Acrysion Base Yellow by Mr. Hobby. It's a Japanese hobby paint that's water based and can be diluted with either water or their special thinner.
Stahly please will you review artists paints i am very interested in what upu think about them compared to different miniatures paints brands. I am also quite Curious how well artists paints like Goldern, Liquitex and Winster & Newton would have faired in this test. Also please do paint conpaions for different colours.
Amazing list, nice work. Unfortunately most aren't available where I live lol I paint my House Hawkshroud knights with Imperial Fists yellow contrast paint, no streaking over big flat panels makes it amazing for mechanical models (I don't have an airbrush due to my living situation). Just have to make sure the undercoat is one solid colour, any difference in the undercoat will show through the yellow.
20:26 This is basically the solution for this alleged problem. Just use something like Imperial Fist Contrast over white primer and don't bother with yellow anymore. You can even mix it with a conventional white paint to get a colour highlights. I am painting Red Scorpions at the moment and yellow is the easiest colour to paint by far.
I agree with u, sir! Imperial Fist Contrast is totally a game changer with light grey or white basecoat.
Thanks for the video. For Kimera paints, you should go with the cold yellow, I believe that one has better coverage.
The bubble issue in the new Vallejo Game color range is so bad I am shocked that Vallejo has not pulled all thier product from the store shelves and go back to drawing board and release a “fixed re-formula”. Also shocked that Vallejo themselves has not addressed the bubble issue. It ruins paint jobs like crazy. Had such potential as the coverage is great and creamy paint but what’s the point in painting with them when bubbles will ruin your paint job especially when painting larger surfaces with a base coat.
Omg I needed this. Can you do all the colors? I can never find a good red. It's either orange ish or too brown.
Great comparission of the yellows! Can you make similar video with oranges?
Very interesting video. Ive painted a couple yellow armies (Lamenters, Iyanden and Imperial fists). One of the OGs of the best yellows that works great for air brushing and paint was the Tamiya brand. Ive heard good things from AK and have seen them in action. My issues with Pro Acrylics is they can be sometimes thin or chalky. I love Reaper Paints and was one of the early testers of the brand. Never used yellow though.
I'd be interested to see how Warcolours' One-Coat Yellow compares to the paints in this test. For me it generally hasn't been a one-coat paint but it does seem to cover well by the standards of the limited number of yellows I've tried and it's definitely brighter than something like Averland Sunset.
Spotlight Yellow is one of the few TTCombat paints I've got. I've barely used it but it didn't really stand out when I did - I'll have to give it another shot at some point!
And I do have one Reaper Master Series paint that I used. Their Blackened Brown is basically like Rhinox Hide in a dropper bottle and that means I use it a lot.
You've did an amazing tier list! 🎉 I'm looking forward to see other colors tier list.
Thank you for sharing!
Love these type of videos. Id love to see one for alot more colors. Im thinking pro acryl is consistently the highest but doesnt win alot. I love the vallejo ice yellow though. Favriote yellow.
Stahly, I appreciate this very comprehensive and valuable review. You are still the best reviewer of paints on the internet.
I think kimera makes only sense if you're willing to mix colors. Out of the bottle many of them don't work. You have to mix some white in or other yellows to get a good coverage. I love kimera because it allowed me to learn a lot about color theory, color mixing and pigments but I hate it because for army painting it isn't very practical unless you're willing to document your colour recipes.
I still use a few reaper paints, I like their ghost white, linen white, leather white, aged bone, and vampire skin fairly well. Coverage can be an issue with a few of them but I like the colors so I put up with it.
Glad to see Reaper paints was in the review. I’ve been using them for over a decade and haven’t had any issues. Then again, I was never dumb enough to try to paint yellow over a black undercoat.
Just a stress test ;)
Good informative video. But I feel like the take on the Kimera color is wrong. I’ve used Kimera yellows, both the warm and the cold tones and if used properly I’ve painted some great display pieces. I’m no master but they’ve done well by me. Keep it up though!
You saved me. Ive been using Vallejo deep yellow for a while and I just could not understand why it was so bad.
Great vid. I’m not a huge fan of kimera at all. I will say shaking isn’t enough if you’ve not used much. You need to stir. Might get slightly better results. I also would enjoy over white or a gradient to see the vibrancy. I got ttcombat and I agree they’re fantastic.
Once again, only paint reviews worth a damn. Please keep it up dude, loving this little series.
I though if you painted a light brown/brown undercoat that helps painting yellow? Generally I've found Vallejo and AK to have the best quality (and consistency of paints), Scale 75 is good as well.
Ty. Just use the citadel one,and I am not happy. So I searched for a test. So..thanx 😊
Both Kimera and the Scale 75 Artist line are designed primarily for miniature painting. If you don't like them, that's cool, but suggesting they aren't designed for mini painting is incorrect.
100% agree. I use Scale colors a lot and love them
I should have made it clearer that this video is about making painting yellow more accessible and easier. To me that means not making it more complex with artist colours that require you to mix in white, apply certain colours first as a base coat, etc. I mentioned in the video that both Kimera and Scale are high quality paints, but they definitely have a learning curve and aren't something I would recommend to the average painter.
I paint mostly with TTCombat and Duncan Rhodes, with a little bit of Pro Acryl, on that note great job! I agree completely.
I actually find TTCombat to have the best balance of vibrancy/saturation and covering power, with Duncan Rhodes a close second.
I definitely use Reaper, it's fairly accessible, but the problem is they advertise very little. I like their consistency, it's somewhat pre-thinned, so you can use it right out of the pot. Not a huge fan of their metallics though.
IIRC Vallejo suggested years ago that people experiencing bubbles in the old Game Colour (and Model Colour) range should *roll* the bottle between their hands rather than shake them. I do the same for those ranges and finds it helps (I've always found bubbles to be a minor problem with dropper bottles, including AK) but haven't used the new Game Colour enough to know if it has the same effect.
Reaper Master Series are really underrated. Their skin tone triads are the bomb. Dark Elf Shadow has become one of my go-to shading colours - a desaturated black magenta, essentially an acrylic Payne's Violet.
I use some Kimera paints and they are a mixed bag as far as coverage goes. The Red is incredible, and the signature sets are really great (the bone color is the best color for bone, IMO).
The yellows are the hardest of that range to work with, in my experience. Pro Acryl, AK or Golden So Flat are the only yellows that don’t make me miserable when I use them.
Finally we can(will) see what is best yellow.. getting good yellow is pain in the ass
If you’re painting yellow over a dark primer, start with a pale grey…
As usual, the most informative and comprehensive material available on youtube. This has been stellar. I hope you can do saturated medium reds next and I can't wait for the new Model Color review, since the old ones form the bulk of my paint collection.
Tamiya is designed for airbrushing, which is why it comes with its own alcohol thinner
Add a drop or two of dish detergent to your tapwater and Tamiya brushes fine. In this playlist, Nightshift shows how to mix up a glaze level effect paint using Tamiya and some basic supplies. ruclips.net/p/PLdMxG_XHdQUax4m4hj9tGpiOLTuK1PUY7
Great video! However for P3 I would've gone with Cygnus Yellow as a closer comparison to Flash Gitz.
Duly noted!
About Reaper... they have like 9 o 10 yellow paints that run the gamut from "might as well be transparent ink" to "Competative against almost anything." I use almost exclusively Reaper, myself. Sun Yellow is also one of the oldest yellows in the line, as the SKU shows.
Thank you for this video!
I've read that oil paint is opposite to acrylic paint in that the lighter colours have the best coverage. We should check out if that's true :)
Yep, it’s me again. That one guy who uses Reaper paints. These were my first set of what I (at the time) considered serious paints, as I had had enough of the Citadel pots. I felt fancy having dropped bottles. They are inexpensive, and I enjoyed their triad system. They have been my mainstays for over 10 years, but are finally showing their age. Time to move on. Pro Acryl, perhaps?