I was about to say, "I'm glad to hear it".. I mean, I'm not glad that you might have gotten something ruined, I'm glad to hear it's not just me (as well)
I recommend for the varnish before the oils a gloss varnish (i use ak gloss varnish) and before putting one the acrilys a matt varnish (here I also use ak ultra matt)
Miniac did some primer tests a few years ago and actually had some significant difficulties with Vallejo. This wasn't one of the aspects he was testing, but it had some real adherence issues in comparison to the others. (I believe it was Army Painter, Citadel, and I can't remember the others...)
Videos like this where you highlight a failure and use it as a learning exercise, then inform us of the steps, are absolutely invaluable. Thanks for your time, amazing work as always!
6:30 -- The Amazon page for the Acrylicos Vallejo white spray primer, on the picture of the can, has a warning that it is flammable; the _bottles_ of primer on their website specifically state that they're solvent-free, so I have to conclude that their can-based spray primers are all solvent-based.
@@52Miniatures It depends; some companies use CO2 or nitrogen for propellant, which aren't flammable. The two most common propellants, though, are dimethyl ether and a propane/butane mix; in the latter case, the solvent is usually white spirit or acetone, which are flammable themselves.
This explains it all! Half a year of failures The only good thing is that as I thought I was the failure I moved on and found that I actually enjoy just painting with oils as on a canvas 😆
Beautiful work! A few episodes back you did a simple oil wash. I fell in love with it right away. I hadn't thought about using it as a starting point. Coincidentally I had printed a tank and wanted to do a yellow scheme. Alex to the rescue with a new wepon for my Arsenal. I will pot some pics on the discord as i work. Lata love from NC!
I really like how the blue undercoat looks, gives a really stark look that stands out against the warm martian base though the magenta/pink undercoat makes them look more in place with their environment
"Face the storm. Obtain the rattle can." -- Modellers and painters, seeking heroism in an unheroic age. Also, a quick clean way to do yellow (our true holy grail).
The late still Great Bob Ross used to say that technique is just a mistake you can repeat. I have found this to ring true in my decades of painting and drawing. It is just as true now that I am turning my brushes to minis. Thank you for another awesome video and for keeping the parts most would cut out, so we can all learn from it.
💛💛💛 Putting that yellow on and seeing it magic happen is really the best bit of this technique. I really like that you've shown us all a non-airbrush way to do this
Fascinating, from a scientific perspective as well as an artistic one. I would be impressed, but it is you after all Alex 😄 You always do amazing work. 💕
I've loved your style since the very beginning! Listening to you talk about painting is like a zen thing. Plus, the subtle humour makes me smile everytime 😀 Very good video Alex! Almost makes me want to start an Imperial Fists army... almost 😉
Thank you for this, a little bit of sunshine in what had been a pretty crappy day. And thank you for showing the whole process bumps and all. Thanks Alex!
First of your videos I have watched... been on a painting kick lately and it really helps me to keep going to watch paint content, regardless of whose. This, however, was amazing. More entertaining that informative in a way (and that's fine), but the production value, comedy, and actual storytelling is phenomenal. Can't say enough positive about this content. Keep it up, I truly enjoyed this.
I have done a similar test, undercoating yellow with several colors, and have found that I like the unique tone of orange-brown I get when undershading with Liquitex Deep Violet (PR122 + PV23RS), the most. Which is a purple, not really a violet. Compared to just magenta (PR122), it looks a little less cartoony, but also less boring that undercoating with a regular orange-brown like Mournfang Brown.
I think I lean ever so slightly to the Bright Pink, but it's between Pink and Magenta. I like the warmth. Also, phenomenal content. Such a well put together video.
I always look forward to your videos. I don't expect I'll recommend you to my mother, but I have to several friends, most of whom don't care about mini painting at all.
17:55 Perhaps the favorite can change with base in mind? A much darker base might altered the mindset if magenta was say apposing a dark greenish blue or blue primary. Might be a interesting test for yourself to add a extra layer of forethought. Always trying to find those myself, but here the thought occurred because of the mars like end result.
I hated painting yellow until I found out about basing pink first. Obviously the contrast has made things simpler, but it certainly saved me some money on some overpriced citadel pots that nearly ended up in the bin.
honestly this whole oil paint approach to underpainting has really changed how I approach things. I used the slapchop method for my orks, and it looks great - really grimy and dark in the way I was looking for. But, when I went to paint my astra militarum models the slapchop method didn't match up to what I wanted. Then came your previous video, like a thunderbolt from the sky, just at the right time. you're right that the preparation part of this method isn't quick (and sometimes is even slower in my draughty English house), but the speed with which a model can get an excellent paint job for the time invested actually applying colour can't be beaten. I've even used it to paint a chimera - with contrast paint! Mind blown. So I guess what I'm trying to say is thanks for yet more excellent videos.
I've had this solvent based spray paint removal problem happen a couple of times on terrain. I now clear coat between the priming and oil wash step using an acrylic clear coat.
Fantastic video, I was so happy to see you using some contrast paints I remember in one video you saying you weren't the biggest fan but there were a few that caught your eye but as a whole I'm happy to see you use them. Oil paints are slowly becoming less of an unknown and more of a fun idea with each video of yours I watch too Love the cinematic of you getting ready to brave the elements very epic Great video Alex always something enjoyable whenever I watch and this was no different
Alex channels Clint Eastwood with his cheroot. Love it. Looks like I might have to brave a bit of snow myself today and for something as mundane as groceries rather than fun rattle cans. Model on!
Given that yellow is one of the primary colors for a lot of the classic 40k art it's awesome to see a relatively challenging color tackled so masterfully in a grim dark manner.
Interesting. I wonder if they changed the formula? I use Vallejo Hobby spray paint often and it has never done that with oils. The can you have Alex, looks very different than the one I get here in Canada (white with pictures of a tank, WWII soldier and a Fantasy model iirc). The one I get specifically says "for metal and plastic" but little else. I use Mona Lisa odourless mineral spirits for my oil washes. No idea if any of those contribute to the differences, but again, that has never happened to me.
@@52Miniatures Ahh, I wasn't aware they were changing the branding on the rattle cans. I plan on stopping into my local hobby store and see if they have the new cans. Maybe I will waste $17 just to test it. 😆
I've been super enthusiastic about championing oil washes for ages. Except I've moved house, and now my hobby room is (temporarily) also my work office and also my bedroom. Painting with solvents isn't an option right now. In the old house, I never did manage to get the wiping technique to work. I found it easier in the end to do a targeted pinwash, and clean up any mistakes with a brush dipped in white spirit.
What I would love to see as a potential future "challenge" is how you'd paint a "factory-fresh" paint job on the armor of some guys who might care a bit too much about the appearance of their equipment. You know, almost like an antithesis to the dirt filter you want to achieve with the final Agrax Earthshade + Medium step.
It is also recommended to spray a gloss varnish over the primer before using an oil wash. This prevents reactivation (usually not a concern!) as well as help the oil wash flow better and require less cleanup. It also helps the oil wash not bind with some primers that aren't super smooth like from an airbrush. You can then use a matte varnish to help keep the contrast paints from not sticking to the gloss surface.
Thank you so much, for the White Spray test for White Spirit. I try your way of painting with the oil washes underneath and your Test beware me in use of Vallejo White Spray Can, I always used so far! I take a lot out of this Video for Painting my Age of Darkness Box so far, thanks so much for your Videos! Btw. I prefer the Magenta underneath the Yellow, don't know why, it has a warm tone to the shadows, I like it most.
Games Workshop primer is a "Japandry primer" like Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo Mr. Hobby primer. These are the toughest and most resilient primers. Vallejo non aerosol primers are water based primer. Their rattlecan primer apparently aren't Japandry and I'm not sure about Army Painter. But for White and Grey, Tamiya is the best, Gunze is as well if you can get it. Gunze also makes a Black and Tamiya also makes a Pink primer as well.
Vallejo hobby spray isn't advertised a primer. It's just paint. It's very smooth so I do use it as a primer sometimes, but it's not as durable as a primer as the citadel stuff so it should be varnished before handling roughly or using any other chemicals on it. The sansodor chemical is pretty harsh though. There are other ways to thin oils that aren't as aggressive.
I mean, there are different types of paint - not only “just paint”? White spirit or turpentine does not dissolve cured acrylic paint. So the Vallejo spray must be a solvent based paint, not an acrylic paint. This has nothing to do with if it’s durable or if it’s a primer or not. There are solvent based primers for example; they would also dissolve in white spirit… I’m curious what you mean about sansodour being a harsh chemical? What do you use for oil paint that is not as “harsh”?
@@52Miniatures Perhaps I should explain a bit more. I use vallejo spray a lot as a primer, but it needs a varnish. For example I'm working on a bust right now that was primed with Vallejo Model spray. I used the vallejo product because I knew it wouldn't clog the fine texture of the clothing. I didn't varnish and while I was doing the first washes of color with my airbrush I tried to lift a mistake with water, but even gentle rubbing removed some of the paint. I touched it up with more spray and then I brush varnished the model using a matte acrylic varnish from Coat D'Arms and it became durable. Vallejo's spray was designed for smooth application for additional layers of color after the priming is already done, not as a durable topcoat and not as a primer. It's just paint. Actual primers have hardeners and strong binders like glue and they are made from absorbent toothy fillers like calcium chalk that take additional layers of paint well and most importantly real primer has chemicals in it which actually etch the surface of the model for better adhesion. My father taught me that for a model to properly take the first layer of paint it should be sanded with a smooth sandpaper and he would make me do it though its a tedious a process to sand plastic. But we can avoid this in miniature painting with specially formulated primers that can etch the surface or that have especially strong binders and a toothy texture. The special formulation is why a priming layer is so hard to remove when stripping the paint off an old mini. Sansodor is a refined petrol chemical. It's the same thing as mineral spirits, but of a better quality. They refine the chemical to remove some of the bad odor and to slow the evaporation rate which also helps with the odor; hence the name sansodor, but it's origins are the same as hardware store turpentine. The best product on the market like Sansodor is called Gamsol and is made by Gamblin (the name means Gamblin Solvent), but even it has some odor, however those two products are comparable. Though odorless mineral spirits are modified to slow the evaporation rate they still evaporate rather quickly. Being extracted from oil they are oil solvents. They are very thin too. Because they are so thin they penetrate previous layers of paint rather easily and so if used as you did to lift early layers the chemical will sink into the paint getting trapped between the paint and the model. They will lift the paint as they evaporate. This is something that old sources warned us about and it's why previous generations of model makers thought oil paint and acrylics were entirely incompatible, but oil painters know differently. Using a more durable primer or varnishing the previous layer helps to prevent this because the evaporation doesn't affect a more durable layer as much and the better sealed surface helps to prevent penetration in the first place. But even if you don't try to lift any paint from a previous layer a layer of Vallejo spray isn't very durable and so it should be varnished, because as I said even rubbing it a bit will lift it. It's excellent for zenithal highlights though because of it's smooth application and it's ideal for preserving detail. More mild chemicals you can use to dissolve oil paint include water with plain white bar soap like ivory soap or Kirk's castile soap or clear dish soap, or glycerin based soaps like shaving soap from Colonel Conk, and so on. Soap isn't good to use on canvas because it embeds itself into the fibers, but it has a lot of uses. Soap and water can clean out your oil painting brushes really well. It'll remove a lot more pigment than mineral spirits alone will because it's a thick lubricant and a detergent that pushes the pigment away from the brush and it should be used after using mineral spirits or acetone based brush cleaner and paint remover to stop the attack of the hairs. And while speaking of it acetone can be diluted to remove oil paint and acrylic paint and it can be used a stripper. Mineral spirits of various kinds are pretty harsh on your brushes. So after washing it out you should add hair conditioner to your brushes. Though they sell special brush conditioner the kind you shower with works fine or you can make some from lanolin and olive oil or some aloe from your garden. You just rinse it out before you use the brush the next time. Some oil painters never allow their brushes to fully dry and use olive oil, mineral oil, or baby oil in their brushes as a conditioner or as a rinse to prevent the paint drying on their brushes between sessions, though too much in your paint can cause problems and it would be especially easy to use too much when miniature painting. Orange oil solvents used to clean up with too though some of these can be pretty aggressive, but many people can tolerate them better than they can petrol chemicals. You can also use mean green or simply green though these will color your model green and they will attack some topcoats used on cheap chromed plastic, but they are very good for cleaning resin models with a toothbrush to remove release chemicals left over during the molding process and of course we use them in 3d printing a lot. They are powerful degreasers, but also have a foaming detergent. The old school way of degreasing automotive parts or gun parts was to use leaded gasoline, but thankfully nobody really does that now. We have safer alternatives. Alcohol like isopropyl alcohol, vodka, wine, etc. will also work and are used in egg tempera painting, but they should be diluted with water for different strengths. No more than a 10% alcohol solution should be tried on the first pass. The old masters thinned oil paint with spike lavender oil (spikenard) which contains natural turpenes. This is what I use when I am painting on canvas or wood, but you can't use it on most plastics and you can't use a plastic palette when using it. And of course rather than thinning oil paint you can remove it as you fatten it with additional oil. That'll impart much more gloss however even to the areas you've removed the pigment from. You can use hardening oils like linseed, safflower, walnut, etc. or non drying oils like olive oil or vegetable oil. Non-drying oils must be used sparingly or the paint may not polymerize correctly. But if you put a little olive oil onto a Q-tip and dab most of it off a paper towel you can lift oil paint from the surface pretty easily unless it's already started to harden. That's why it's best to use only a small amount of thinner when painting with oils on models. The drawback of using less thinner during oil wash though is more gloss so a varnish with a matte coat like Testor's Dullcote after a layer you don't want to impart gloss to is a good idea. A lot of old bust painters would apply that with an airbrush after an oil layer.
I've had issues with Vallejo primer too: not like this, I just couldn't get it to cover properly, ended up putting on too much, and then it looked all grainy. My current top pick for white primer is Tamiya, that stuff is magic...
Interesting that maybe explains why the figures i primed with Vallejo White constantly lost the other paints i was trying to apply. Never had this happen with Army Painter and GW cans.
Cool workflow, alternatively yellow can be just painted with cadmium yellow artist grade oil paint, it has the coverage never seen in model paint (with their cheapo pigments, this is the secret of why yellow is hard using citadel, vallejo, AK and etc.)
Hobby paints names started at scale models where german grey describes in a much better way a specific shade of grey, there is also a ferrari red for example. Then we have hobby paints with names that probably were designed to sound cool, so kids would buy them. Although Steel legion drab is probably a colour of choice for Steel legion.
Absolutely amazing!! Loved watching this and picking up the knowledge within!!! Do you think something like this would work well over a leadbelcher base coat? I'm painting my heresy army as alpha legion and interested in the subtle colour seen in the imperial fist models.
Hello Andrew. I mean, you can give it a try. But the subtle colour shifts are because of the transparent paint that goes on top of the oil paint. Adding oil paint on top of leadbelcher is not really the same thing...
Did you add a varnish layer before doing the oil wash? That is the only explanation I can think of is if you didn't varnish the models beforehand, since a varnish will protect the white layer
There should be no need for varnish if the primer is an acrylic paint. White spirit does not dissolve acrylic paint only solvent based paint. That's sort of one of the major bonuses of the oil paint workflow. And that's why I tried all the other rattle cans in the video, none of the others where affected. And so the Vajello rattle can must be solvent based paint.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
one of the best mini painting youtubers out.
Thank you humbly Anthoni
I have had this exact issue with Vallejo primer! It's actually a relief that it's not just me.
I was about to say, "I'm glad to hear it".. I mean, I'm not glad that you might have gotten something ruined, I'm glad to hear it's not just me (as well)
Just varnish before applying your oils; it'll work just fine. No need to dispose of your rattle can primers.
@@worm1618 Indeed, but I wanted this example to have as few steps as possible.
I recommend for the varnish before the oils a gloss varnish (i use ak gloss varnish) and before putting one the acrilys a matt varnish (here I also use ak ultra matt)
Miniac did some primer tests a few years ago and actually had some significant difficulties with Vallejo. This wasn't one of the aspects he was testing, but it had some real adherence issues in comparison to the others. (I believe it was Army Painter, Citadel, and I can't remember the others...)
Videos like this where you highlight a failure and use it as a learning exercise, then inform us of the steps, are absolutely invaluable. Thanks for your time, amazing work as always!
I love it that you show when things go wrong.
This is more than a hobby video. It’s a public service announcement. Thank you!!
I appreciate it Luddite
Quality in every second of this channel
Thanks so much for this my friend. Every time I think I'm out, you draw me back in and make me want to paint some tiny men... Keep up the good work!
So glad to hear it. Thanks T
congratulations, you are the fist youtuber to paint yellow that does not have a heavy orange vibe
Love the effect of the magenta. I always start with a hot pink when I'm painting lava, gives such a strong blast of colour to the oranges
6:30 -- The Amazon page for the Acrylicos Vallejo white spray primer, on the picture of the can, has a warning that it is flammable; the _bottles_ of primer on their website specifically state that they're solvent-free, so I have to conclude that their can-based spray primers are all solvent-based.
I think most rattle can propellant is flammable?
@@52Miniatures It depends; some companies use CO2 or nitrogen for propellant, which aren't flammable. The two most common propellants, though, are dimethyl ether and a propane/butane mix; in the latter case, the solvent is usually white spirit or acetone, which are flammable themselves.
Also massive respect for
being a content creator who actually tells people to be responsible and careful with some products.
I appreciate it N 👍
This explains it all!
Half a year of failures
The only good thing is that as I thought I was the failure I moved on and found that I actually enjoy just painting with oils as on a canvas 😆
Beautiful work! A few episodes back you did a simple oil wash. I fell in love with it right away. I hadn't thought about using it as a starting point. Coincidentally I had printed a tank and wanted to do a yellow scheme. Alex to the rescue with a new wepon for my Arsenal. I will pot some pics on the discord as i work. Lata love from NC!
Thanks Charles and please do! It would be cool to see the tank.
I really like how the blue undercoat looks, gives a really stark look that stands out against the warm martian base though the magenta/pink undercoat makes them look more in place with their environment
No matter how many of your videos I watch, I'm always amazed at your production.
Thank you Derek! I appreciate it
nice, my man having a smoke too! you love to see it. i smoke my pipe and paint minis often, its an amazing combo.
Thanks!
"Face the storm. Obtain the rattle can." -- Modellers and painters, seeking heroism in an unheroic age. Also, a quick clean way to do yellow (our true holy grail).
🙌
Great video, showed both the successes and failures that come with the hobby (well, a vallejo fail perhaps), and definitely a good way of doing yellow
Thanks Michael!
I really like videos that focus in on one of the colors we "fear". Vincy V has also done a series, glad to see you also take up the challenge.
your previous yellow space marine was incredible, so excited to see how these turn out!
Bravo! That’s a brilliant recipe for yellow, and by extension pretty much every other lighter color combo.
That magenta one is glorious! Glad I saw this before I started painting. Stort tack!
Yellow on top of pink also makes a really fun gradient.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks for sharing your journey
Thanks Mark!
I so love the way you always have a Story on your Videos.
Thanks TFTF!
this is my first video of yours I have watched. SOLD ! I am now a fan thank you, I hear the call of my hobby desk once again !
Glad to hear it! Welcome to the channel
Really appreciate your content sir, especially showing test and fails/accidents with products. Very soothing tutorials great quality as always.
Thank you very much, I appreciate it.
The late still Great Bob Ross used to say that technique is just a mistake you can repeat. I have found this to ring true in my decades of painting and drawing. It is just as true now that I am turning my brushes to minis. Thank you for another awesome video and for keeping the parts most would cut out, so we can all learn from it.
This is very helpful! I love the failures included in the videos, it definitely adds to see the process overall.
💛💛💛
Putting that yellow on and seeing it magic happen is really the best bit of this technique. I really like that you've shown us all a non-airbrush way to do this
💜 Thanks man!
Fascinating, from a scientific perspective as well as an artistic one. I would be impressed, but it is you after all Alex 😄 You always do amazing work. 💕
Well thank you good sir 🖖
@@52Miniatures
Peace and long life 🖖
Superb video, not only did you show the yellow but also how to actually make an oil wash, thank you.
The painting content is as always amazing, but the story of overcoming adversity with your first primer was supremely enjoyable.
This video was a two-fer; education on Vallejo primer composition and beautiful yellow marine exhibition. Well done on both!
Thanks John!
Fantastic video. Well spoken. Overcoming your surprise priming adversary was both informative and made for an interesting narrative.
I've loved your style since the very beginning! Listening to you talk about painting is like a zen thing. Plus, the subtle humour makes me smile everytime 😀 Very good video Alex! Almost makes me want to start an Imperial Fists army... almost 😉
Thanks man, and good to hear from you. I hope all is well.
@@52Miniatures I'm great, thanks for asking! Just busy, as we all are, aren't we? Anyway, have a very pleasant day! :)
Great video! Grateful for the entertainment and your company while I paint. 😊
Love that bright pink undercoat!
Came here to learn how to paint yellow. Ended up watching a videographical work of art. And learned how to paint yellow. Success.
Welcome Giz 👋
As a new hobby painter that has been having trouble painting yellow, this video has given me everything I need to paint it well!!
Great to hear Larry!
Thank you for this, a little bit of sunshine in what had been a pretty crappy day. And thank you for showing the whole process bumps and all. Thanks Alex!
Sorry to hear about the bad day but I’m glad to hear the video helped 👍
What a journey! 😄I do love yellow-gamboge, goldenrod, saffron, lemony, Turner-y, whatever I can get my hands on. I enjoyed seeing your techniques.
Great K, thank you 🙏
thank you for vanquishing the solvent bandits on our behalf, you're like a modern hobby Clint Eastwood!
Pow pow!
First of your videos I have watched... been on a painting kick lately and it really helps me to keep going to watch paint content, regardless of whose. This, however, was amazing. More entertaining that informative in a way (and that's fine), but the production value, comedy, and actual storytelling is phenomenal. Can't say enough positive about this content. Keep it up, I truly enjoyed this.
Thank you K, much appreciated.
You are the most inspiring RUclipsr! Thank you so much for your videos!
Thank you J! I appreciate it 👋
The shot of you leaving home and lighting a cigarette was epic. Subscribed
Welcome to the channel!
Lovely work Alex. Like it how watching your vids is like witnessing artwork in progress. Not just the minis, the whole video. Top job once more
Thank you B!
Absolutely ADORE the Fistful of Dollars reference/homage!
✌️
I have done a similar test, undercoating yellow with several colors, and have found that I like the unique tone of orange-brown I get when undershading with Liquitex Deep Violet (PR122 + PV23RS), the most. Which is a purple, not really a violet. Compared to just magenta (PR122), it looks a little less cartoony, but also less boring that undercoating with a regular orange-brown like Mournfang Brown.
This is the first video of yours I have seen. I’m eager to see more. Loved it!
Glad to hear it, welcome to the channel.
I think I lean ever so slightly to the Bright Pink, but it's between Pink and Magenta. I like the warmth. Also, phenomenal content. Such a well put together video.
Really liked the magenta underpainting. I've used pink in the past, but ill be using a deeper hue next time. Thanks for another helpful video Alex!
Thanks The End!
I always look forward to your videos. I don't expect I'll recommend you to my mother, but I have to several friends, most of whom don't care about mini painting at all.
Thanks Andrew!
Thank you for braving those arduous conditions to make this video!!
Yellow is a hard colour, but I do like these contrast paints.
Very timely- I’ve got some yellow feathers on a skink headdress that are just not working. Lots of ideas here!
8:22 This scene... très magnifique
The subtle difference between the shadows created are so great, almost as if it is the same company but in different enviroments
I always love your content 52. The pace and style of your videos is superb. As usual informative and entertaining. ;_
Great video, love the walkthrough. I've been sitting on a few marines I really want to do this with.
17:55 Perhaps the favorite can change with base in mind? A much darker base might altered the mindset if magenta was say apposing a dark greenish blue or blue primary. Might be a interesting test for yourself to add a extra layer of forethought. Always trying to find those myself, but here the thought occurred because of the mars like end result.
I hated painting yellow until I found out about basing pink first. Obviously the contrast has made things simpler, but it certainly saved me some money on some overpriced citadel pots that nearly ended up in the bin.
You get me excited to try new things! Much love!
Great to hear M!
This is like a professional artist using a colouring book
I love the "existential crisis" vibe this video gives off!
It was! :)
honestly this whole oil paint approach to underpainting has really changed how I approach things. I used the slapchop method for my orks, and it looks great - really grimy and dark in the way I was looking for. But, when I went to paint my astra militarum models the slapchop method didn't match up to what I wanted. Then came your previous video, like a thunderbolt from the sky, just at the right time. you're right that the preparation part of this method isn't quick (and sometimes is even slower in my draughty English house), but the speed with which a model can get an excellent paint job for the time invested actually applying colour can't be beaten. I've even used it to paint a chimera - with contrast paint! Mind blown. So I guess what I'm trying to say is thanks for yet more excellent videos.
Great to hear Niko, thanks 🙏
Bro I am drunk watching this video and god damn what a rollercoaster. This is cinema.
"Alex of 52 miniatures. Known by moms everywhere." new slogan. :D
Hah! Love it
Those guns look amazing
Thanks! Pretty swift workflow. Black contrast paint and then over bush lightly with silvery metallic paint
A true storyteller
I've had this solvent based spray paint removal problem happen a couple of times on terrain. I now clear coat between the priming and oil wash step using an acrylic clear coat.
Fantastic as always, thanks!
Fantastic video, I was so happy to see you using some contrast paints I remember in one video you saying you weren't the biggest fan but there were a few that caught your eye but as a whole I'm happy to see you use them.
Oil paints are slowly becoming less of an unknown and more of a fun idea with each video of yours I watch too
Love the cinematic of you getting ready to brave the elements very epic
Great video Alex always something enjoyable whenever I watch and this was no different
Thanks Ovan, much appreciated.
Alex channels Clint Eastwood with his cheroot. Love it. Looks like I might have to brave a bit of snow myself today and for something as mundane as groceries rather than fun rattle cans. Model on!
The snow is back here again, again.
great stuff, as always! Magenta is the nicest but the side by side comparisons were very informative!
Thanks again Alex!
Given that yellow is one of the primary colors for a lot of the classic 40k art it's awesome to see a relatively challenging color tackled so masterfully in a grim dark manner.
Thank you Steffon!
Interesting. I wonder if they changed the formula? I use Vallejo Hobby spray paint often and it has never done that with oils. The can you have Alex, looks very different than the one I get here in Canada (white with pictures of a tank, WWII soldier and a Fantasy model iirc). The one I get specifically says "for metal and plastic" but little else. I use Mona Lisa odourless mineral spirits for my oil washes. No idea if any of those contribute to the differences, but again, that has never happened to me.
This was a fresh delivery, it's their new logo on, like the way the game colour bottles look now. I don't know if they have altered the formula.
@@52Miniatures Ahh, I wasn't aware they were changing the branding on the rattle cans. I plan on stopping into my local hobby store and see if they have the new cans. Maybe I will waste $17 just to test it. 😆
I've been super enthusiastic about championing oil washes for ages. Except I've moved house, and now my hobby room is (temporarily) also my work office and also my bedroom. Painting with solvents isn't an option right now.
In the old house, I never did manage to get the wiping technique to work. I found it easier in the end to do a targeted pinwash, and clean up any mistakes with a brush dipped in white spirit.
What I would love to see as a potential future "challenge" is how you'd paint a "factory-fresh" paint job on the armor of some guys who might care a bit too much about the appearance of their equipment. You know, almost like an antithesis to the dirt filter you want to achieve with the final Agrax Earthshade + Medium step.
It is also recommended to spray a gloss varnish over the primer before using an oil wash. This prevents reactivation (usually not a concern!) as well as help the oil wash flow better and require less cleanup. It also helps the oil wash not bind with some primers that aren't super smooth like from an airbrush. You can then use a matte varnish to help keep the contrast paints from not sticking to the gloss surface.
sweet glad you did this my friend.
Thanks Matt!
@@52Miniatures no problem my friend. they look awesome
I'm positive that the vast majority of moms would indeed be delighted to have you recommended to them. 😊
Counting on it!
And yes, GW primer so far is some of the best out there for rattlecan.
Thank you so much, for the White Spray test for White Spirit. I try your way of painting with the oil washes underneath and your Test beware me in use of Vallejo White Spray Can, I always used so far!
I take a lot out of this Video for Painting my Age of Darkness Box so far, thanks so much for your Videos! Btw. I prefer the Magenta underneath the Yellow, don't know why, it has a warm tone to the shadows, I like it most.
I'm glad it was of help T!
Great video mate, Shame ive just finished 4k of imperial fists for heresy! May use this on some centre piece large models!
Im curious, do you like rattlecan priming more than airbrush priming or do you just not have one? Oil washes work really well with airbrushing too
I used a can in this video to make it more approachable to those without an airbrush.
Games Workshop primer is a "Japandry primer" like Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo Mr. Hobby primer. These are the toughest and most resilient primers. Vallejo non aerosol primers are water based primer. Their rattlecan primer apparently aren't Japandry and I'm not sure about Army Painter. But for White and Grey, Tamiya is the best, Gunze is as well if you can get it. Gunze also makes a Black and Tamiya also makes a Pink primer as well.
Whether you smoke or not, it was perfectly added so many of us feel that way in those circumstances
Vallejo hobby spray isn't advertised a primer. It's just paint. It's very smooth so I do use it as a primer sometimes, but it's not as durable as a primer as the citadel stuff so it should be varnished before handling roughly or using any other chemicals on it. The sansodor chemical is pretty harsh though. There are other ways to thin oils that aren't as aggressive.
I mean, there are different types of paint - not only “just paint”? White spirit or turpentine does not dissolve cured acrylic paint. So the Vallejo spray must be a solvent based paint, not an acrylic paint. This has nothing to do with if it’s durable or if it’s a primer or not. There are solvent based primers for example; they would also dissolve in white spirit… I’m curious what you mean about sansodour being a harsh chemical? What do you use for oil paint that is not as “harsh”?
@@52Miniatures Perhaps I should explain a bit more. I use vallejo spray a lot as a primer, but it needs a varnish. For example I'm working on a bust right now that was primed with Vallejo Model spray. I used the vallejo product because I knew it wouldn't clog the fine texture of the clothing. I didn't varnish and while I was doing the first washes of color with my airbrush I tried to lift a mistake with water, but even gentle rubbing removed some of the paint. I touched it up with more spray and then I brush varnished the model using a matte acrylic varnish from Coat D'Arms and it became durable.
Vallejo's spray was designed for smooth application for additional layers of color after the priming is already done, not as a durable topcoat and not as a primer. It's just paint.
Actual primers have hardeners and strong binders like glue and they are made from absorbent toothy fillers like calcium chalk that take additional layers of paint well and most importantly real primer has chemicals in it which actually etch the surface of the model for better adhesion.
My father taught me that for a model to properly take the first layer of paint it should be sanded with a smooth sandpaper and he would make me do it though its a tedious a process to sand plastic.
But we can avoid this in miniature painting with specially formulated primers that can etch the surface or that have especially strong binders and a toothy texture. The special formulation is why a priming layer is so hard to remove when stripping the paint off an old mini.
Sansodor is a refined petrol chemical. It's the same thing as mineral spirits, but of a better quality. They refine the chemical to remove some of the bad odor and to slow the evaporation rate which also helps with the odor; hence the name sansodor, but it's origins are the same as hardware store turpentine.
The best product on the market like Sansodor is called Gamsol and is made by Gamblin (the name means Gamblin Solvent), but even it has some odor, however those two products are comparable.
Though odorless mineral spirits are modified to slow the evaporation rate they still evaporate rather quickly. Being extracted from oil they are oil solvents. They are very thin too. Because they are so thin they penetrate previous layers of paint rather easily and so if used as you did to lift early layers the chemical will sink into the paint getting trapped between the paint and the model. They will lift the paint as they evaporate. This is something that old sources warned us about and it's why previous generations of model makers thought oil paint and acrylics were entirely incompatible, but oil painters know differently.
Using a more durable primer or varnishing the previous layer helps to prevent this because the evaporation doesn't affect a more durable layer as much and the better sealed surface helps to prevent penetration in the first place.
But even if you don't try to lift any paint from a previous layer a layer of Vallejo spray isn't very durable and so it should be varnished, because as I said even rubbing it a bit will lift it.
It's excellent for zenithal highlights though because of it's smooth application and it's ideal for preserving detail.
More mild chemicals you can use to dissolve oil paint include water with plain white bar soap like ivory soap or Kirk's castile soap or clear dish soap, or glycerin based soaps like shaving soap from Colonel Conk, and so on.
Soap isn't good to use on canvas because it embeds itself into the fibers, but it has a lot of uses. Soap and water can clean out your oil painting brushes really well. It'll remove a lot more pigment than mineral spirits alone will because it's a thick lubricant and a detergent that pushes the pigment away from the brush and it should be used after using mineral spirits or acetone based brush cleaner and paint remover to stop the attack of the hairs. And while speaking of it acetone can be diluted to remove oil paint and acrylic paint and it can be used a stripper.
Mineral spirits of various kinds are pretty harsh on your brushes. So after washing it out you should add hair conditioner to your brushes. Though they sell special brush conditioner the kind you shower with works fine or you can make some from lanolin and olive oil or some aloe from your garden. You just rinse it out before you use the brush the next time.
Some oil painters never allow their brushes to fully dry and use olive oil, mineral oil, or baby oil in their brushes as a conditioner or as a rinse to prevent the paint drying on their brushes between sessions, though too much in your paint can cause problems and it would be especially easy to use too much when miniature painting.
Orange oil solvents used to clean up with too though some of these can be pretty aggressive, but many people can tolerate them better than they can petrol chemicals.
You can also use mean green or simply green though these will color your model green and they will attack some topcoats used on cheap chromed plastic, but they are very good for cleaning resin models with a toothbrush to remove release chemicals left over during the molding process and of course we use them in 3d printing a lot. They are powerful degreasers, but also have a foaming detergent. The old school way of degreasing automotive parts or gun parts was to use leaded gasoline, but thankfully nobody really does that now. We have safer alternatives.
Alcohol like isopropyl alcohol, vodka, wine, etc. will also work and are used in egg tempera painting, but they should be diluted with water for different strengths. No more than a 10% alcohol solution should be tried on the first pass.
The old masters thinned oil paint with spike lavender oil (spikenard) which contains natural turpenes. This is what I use when I am painting on canvas or wood, but you can't use it on most plastics and you can't use a plastic palette when using it.
And of course rather than thinning oil paint you can remove it as you fatten it with additional oil. That'll impart much more gloss however even to the areas you've removed the pigment from. You can use hardening oils like linseed, safflower, walnut, etc. or non drying oils like olive oil or vegetable oil. Non-drying oils must be used sparingly or the paint may not polymerize correctly. But if you put a little olive oil onto a Q-tip and dab most of it off a paper towel you can lift oil paint from the surface pretty easily unless it's already started to harden. That's why it's best to use only a small amount of thinner when painting with oils on models.
The drawback of using less thinner during oil wash though is more gloss so a varnish with a matte coat like Testor's Dullcote after a layer you don't want to impart gloss to is a good idea. A lot of old bust painters would apply that with an airbrush after an oil layer.
Another great video, thanks Alex! Certainly getting your content value for money out of this box set! 😂 Any clever plans to cover the vehicles?
I think so! at least the two legged thing.
very beautiful
I've had issues with Vallejo primer too: not like this, I just couldn't get it to cover properly, ended up putting on too much, and then it looked all grainy.
My current top pick for white primer is Tamiya, that stuff is magic...
Would love to see this method using the airbrush. I like seeing options man. This was great. Wash Posh?
Interesting that maybe explains why the figures i primed with Vallejo White constantly lost the other paints i was trying to apply.
Never had this happen with Army Painter and GW cans.
Cool workflow, alternatively yellow can be just painted with cadmium yellow artist grade oil paint, it has the coverage never seen in model paint (with their cheapo pigments, this is the secret of why yellow is hard using citadel, vallejo, AK and etc.)
Hobby paints names started at scale models where german grey describes in a much better way a specific shade of grey, there is also a ferrari red for example. Then we have hobby paints with names that probably were designed to sound cool, so kids would buy them. Although Steel legion drab is probably a colour of choice for Steel legion.
I wish you had uploaded this one 2 months earlier as i have been a "Vallejo" victim on my Nighthaunt project...I love you anyway! 😜
Absolutely amazing!! Loved watching this and picking up the knowledge within!!! Do you think something like this would work well over a leadbelcher base coat? I'm painting my heresy army as alpha legion and interested in the subtle colour seen in the imperial fist models.
Hello Andrew. I mean, you can give it a try. But the subtle colour shifts are because of the transparent paint that goes on top of the oil paint. Adding oil paint on top of leadbelcher is not really the same thing...
Spectacular video! I absolutely love those lights! What brand are they?
Do you mean the tube lights Shaun?
@@52Miniatures Yeah!
Did you add a varnish layer before doing the oil wash? That is the only explanation I can think of is if you didn't varnish the models beforehand, since a varnish will protect the white layer
There should be no need for varnish if the primer is an acrylic paint. White spirit does not dissolve acrylic paint only solvent based paint. That's sort of one of the major bonuses of the oil paint workflow. And that's why I tried all the other rattle cans in the video, none of the others where affected. And so the Vajello rattle can must be solvent based paint.