Why Isn't Everyone Painting like THIS?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
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Starting a new series I wanted to do since a long time - taking an analytic look at different painting approaches, trying to find out how long they take, how difficult they are to learn and execute, how many tools you need for them and last but not least...how fun they are!
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This channel is about painting miniatures for your warhammer, infinity, warmachine & d&d games, as well as age of sigmar and warhammer 40k. space marines, space wolves, sisters of battle, stormcast eternals, beastclaw raiders, mawtribes, cities of sigmar, chaos space marines. Also painting different scale models and miniature busts! How to paint NMM. How to paint warhammer, how to paint D&D figures. 
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@trovarion Great vid! If you do want to try masking tape again, I recommend Tamiya Masking Tape, it’s very flat and designed to have a straight edge. Normal masking tape isn’t that flat so you don’t get a sharp edge.
@@DeadEightVids i have tamiya 😅
@@trovarion Oh haha, you’re probably just too good with a brush then for it to be worth it.
@@DeadEightVids probably still user error...will try it again!
Oils! I thought the day would never come you Legend 😄❤️
Everyone is struggling with a backlog so is thinking about speed. The thing that helped me though was focussing on making it fun, which made me want to paint more.
This technique here isn’t just fast, a high % of the time is spent on satisfying high impact steps.
True!
I think people like to know how long something takes because watching a 15 min video creates the illusion that the process of painting a mini is a lot faster than it is. Hearing that it took X hours is very reassuring, when you're there in your 3rd hour of painting wondering why you're so slow.
I have found that make up cotton swaps are much better suited for dealing with oil paints, they come in various shapes and sizes and are ideal for manipulating the oil on the model.
I use cheap makeup sponge wedges. They're so soft and work so well that it almost feels like you're painting in reverse.
Yeah make up sponge wedges are denser and don’t leave lint.
@subodai85 the last thing you want is lint in your eyes. Imo paying extra for the silicone makeup sponges is worth it if you look after them, how well they're going to stand up to oils and oil cleaner I'm not sure.
I adore painting with oils, but that stems from starting on tanks first then moving to smaller and smaller miniatures. With the streaking, if you dot on the streak colours and give it a quick spray of thinners through the airbrush. it'll run naturally although you may have to help it along with a small brush in some areas. Great video as always
I like the 'it doesn't matter how long it takes because painting is fun' approach. Each model I approach with a 'I want to do "this" thing', sometimes that means it'll take ages, sometimes its quick, but it's nice to just sit down and paint whilst listening to youtube videos.
That said, I'm lining up a 'one box - one weekend' challenge for myself, where I might decide I wish I knew every trick in the trade to actually get it finished. 😀
Always, the "I want to do this" mindset is much more healthy and motivating than the "I have to do this".
Brilliant results, really love that yellow and the finish.
On the cotton bud front, I find makeup sponges great for the removal of oil washes. It's faster and doesn't leave strands and stuff on the model.
Great video, looking forward to the next one.
Love this way you broke it all down. I'm excited to see where this series goes !
The powerfist part was supernice!
I personally love this style of painting method. I first started using something similar after discovering Marco Frisoni's kill team speed paint videos a couple years ago. It's really great for batch painting squads to a good standard, especially also using contrast style paints for some of the smaller areas. If you skip the detailed weathering the core of the technique is very fast. Painted a start collecting box of FEC to a decent standard in a day using this. The preshade and oils work wonders on big muscley figures
Your energy and techniques are superlative.
Beautiful model and beautiful painting, at least for someone who never painted or even saw painted army IRL.
At some moments the video made me think about giving it a try, but then I imagined how long will it take just to get to 1/10th of that skill, and... Yeah, I'll better spend the money ordering such beauty already painted...
I painted many IF models over the years using a similar approach. What I found was, if you give the model an overall coat of ak dark brown wash oil paint through the airbrush, remove it from everything but the recesses using a make-up sponge and some white spirit, the black pin wash on the still-wet model will be precise, you can save both varnish steps, and get a nicer (rougher) texture at the end. Throw in some metal highlights with oil-based metallics and last but not least paint the lenses to get a smoother surface finish there.
Only recorded the time once, and ended at 17h for 10 Intercessors, so I think you're right, batch-painting saves time, though getting nice basecoats down on a batch of 10 models can be challenging to your motivation sometimes.
I have recently just gotten into airbrushing, trying out different schemes but im using more brighter colours
The good thing here is that its decently accessible overall. Yes granted like you said you'd need the airbrush for example, or oils if you want to etc but it still doable with basic brushes and some contrast paints. I got the LE box of Sisters back when they came out and i still have to paint it, just cant get around to it so im trying to find a quick way to do so since i wont be playing with them anyway. They're only for display "as a plan" for now.
Great work love it and will try this on my IFs now! 😉
This is amazing!! With the streaking grime, I find that very small blobs of un-thinned oil paints work better, then you can streak and blend them with a soft brush that only has the slightest bit of thinner in the bristles. This gives you a lot more speed and control. But I love the techniques you used here and the result is outstanding!!
Nice example of a multimedia approach. If you have problems with cotton buds shedding while cleaning up oil washes, look at getting some eye makeup application sponges. These use a synthetic fibre that doesn't shed, they usually have a broad head, with a thin edge, so you have tow options for larger surfaces, and tight spaces.
A similar product, but slightly more expensive, is cleaning swabs, or clean-room swabs. These come in a wider variety of shapes and sized heads. Down to really small precise heads for cleaning electronic components.
I tried the same and it will take some practice before I can get it to look as good as yours.
I did my Iyanden with a magenta under paint and found that I couldn't get the magenta to read dark enough for the deepest shadows, even at full opacity. My solution was to spray the darkest shadows with "intense blue" first, and slightly overlap that with layers of magenta. Then I did the yellow layers by only slightly overlapping into the magenta, which gives a very "Glam" effect that I think is perfect for Elves in space. Also my pin washes were magenta slightly darkened with purple.
It's not a "speed" method by any means but it looks fantastic.
Sounds cool!
You make the best looking paint jobs and it makes me want to start painting minis
Great timing, literally just preordered some heresy marines for an imperial fists force. Super useful and learned a few things about workflow. It seems to be the biggedt opportunity for time saving imo. Also, masking takes longer than freehand for me (not that im good at it, but its fiddly) - would encourage people to learn it, straight lines are easier than they look
For the oil paint pin washing and streaking...your gloss varnish has to be thick enough to fill in the microscopic divots in a the matte surface underneath but thin enough to not obscure detail. Also, If you airbrush an acrylic varnish and then start oil painting on top of it too quickly, the varnish layer can rip and tear when you start trying to remove the excess/blend/feather the oil paint.
1. You can get away with one coat of varnish, but you need to make sure you hit absolutely every part of the mini.
2. If you are airbrushing your varnish and going for one coat, you may want a slightly thicker layer than you are used to. The mini should look wet, but no pooling.
3. Let your gloss varnish completely cure (up to ~24 hours depending on the type)
4. For paint removal, cotton swabs can work, makeup sponges are better
5. Until you get a feel for how much varnish you need, you blend over any staining with the oil equivalent of your midtone/shadow color very quickly
Great video! What about drying time for the varnishes and oil paints?
3:20 don't give up on your preshading just reestablish highlights with thinned white ink then reapply yellow
I really want to see you use a hypershift pigment in 1 of your miniature paint videos
Because you are a genius and people struggle to keep up.
Trovarion, I must say your Grimdark series has made painting so much fun. Im still fairly new to painting and watching your videos has made me confident in showing my end results to my gaming buddies. I really struggled in painting "fresh out the assembly line" marines and grimdark hides mistakes. The battered and weathered look definitely adds to the gaming experience. Thank you for putting the work to make this hobby such a great experience. One more thing, can you make a video where you see our grimdark models and give us feedback?
Finaly some "pro" adopting scale modellers techniques :) well done. Myself I am trying to get this into those thick skulls in my wh community :D ... most of them cannot be bothered though, yet they keep wondering how did I do this and that, when they see the results :D
ausgezeichnet!! Love this style, please more!
Great job!! Excellent simple instruction! End result table top plus plus in a short time!! A logical rating system. A good format for more videos until you get board😂
8404 with the sticker on. A man of true taste.
I like the format too thx 😊🙏
When i use ultra matt varnish after pinwashing on a gloss varnish, the matt varnish is very fragile and tend to brake/peal while playing with the figure. Don't you have this problem or know why ?
How do you determine what color to do the under painting to get shadows like that? I’m assuming the magenta works with yellow, but wouldn’t with other colors?
I think a lot of the scratches on the Power Fist would take off more than just a few layers of paint. You'd probably be able to see the metal. Maybe a combination of deep and shallow scratches would be cool. What do I know, I am not good at painting at all.
I know that lore isn't the be all and end all by any stretch, yet the power armour is ceramic so wouldn't show metal when scratched.
@@sarainy9775 Ceramite. It would show something though the color Ceramite White implies it's white.
@@cyclone8974 autocorrect changed my ceramite to ceramic! That's a good assumption though that it would be white based on the paint colour
So, forgive the noob question, but was the reason for the magenta undercoat because its opposite yellow on the color wheel? By that logic would a similar method work if i wanted to use a dark blue grey contrast style paint with say an orange pre shade? Thanks!
To avoid the paint to pass under the masking tape you can apply a first coat of the other color. So here apply the white half, place your tape to do the black, apply white at the junction and than apply black on top.
An outstandingly informative video. I'm really looking forward to the next one.
What colour would you use if painting red for the dark shade? Brown? Purple?
Black.
Great video, it's actually a very similar process I've begun using fo my tyranids. I learned it from Marco Frisoni. Would love to see this method used on tyranids by you. Perhaps in a very light vibrant colored scheme? Every one does grim dark this way on tyranids, but I have yet to see something vibrant and with more saturation.
“If your a messy painter, like me”.
🙄
Another brilliant video. Much appreciated. Love it
Im making a lamenters army and im using winston and newton yellow ochre, can I use an airbrush for oil paints?
I finally found the voice of reason in the internet... no matter if you paint for yourself or money: there should be at least some fun in it - if one is doing it like it was chore from the worst nightmare then it looks and feels that way later. And also 15 minutes job will always look like 15 minutes job. Thank you for stating that "not so obvious" truth.👊 :brofist: XD
this is a pretty good video
If you're really good with the airbrush....super simple.
Oh yes, Crunchy Cheetos - Imperial Fists successor chapter
😍
Alright this convinced me to get an airbrush
So, yes, Trovarion's skill is undeniable, and these techniques are absolutely great, but how much can we _really_ trust someone whose first action on Terminator Armour is to *REMOVE THE CRUX TERMINATUS* ?! 😱😱😱
I like it. *Minimalist Dreadnought armor.*
@@wasdwazdi will never admit that i like the minimalist dreadnaught armor
That's the invulnerable save gone before they even hit the table....
THE EMPEROR PROTECTS no longer :(
30k > 40k
You don't understand why everyone isn't painting with the airbrush? I can tell you - i tried using it, but it either requires a separate room or good ventilation set up. Both require a lot of space and time. Hope that helps.
I airbrush my miniatures in the kitchen while my wife is cooking, just set up a box w only 2 of the walls up, use that to paint into; no issue.
Love the rich effect the pre-shade gave the yellow. I highly suggest that if you use masking tape again, rub the edge of the tape with a silicone shaper or try Frogtape Yellow (Delicate Surface), that works like a charm.
This is such a great format and personal score breakdown at the end! Really helpful how you go through your experience, good and bad. Especially In respect that you don't seem scared to have a negative take on something. Painting RUclipsrs often end up playing both fields and going with the milk toast opinions. Keep it up, buddy! This feels personal and interesting, through your eyes!
Mate I learn something new with every video I watch of yours. Please keep posting quality content like this. 🔥
As someone who suffers from severe ADHD, having the breakdowns of time for each process is INCREDIBLY helpful in determining where I should best spend my time while painting. Calculating the "time spent on a step vs. results achieved" takes up so much time and I get lost in the minutiae to the point where painting is no longer fun, and that feeling is terrible. Thank you for having a more technical, process-oriented video! Techniques and method are important for the hobby but a lot of youtubers gloss over the "nitty-gritty" details of the painting process, even though it has such a huge impact on the process (admittedly this is more the fault of youtube for forcing you all to chase algorithm trends). Thank you again for devoting the time to it, it's incredibly helpful for a lot of people to have an example of how the whole process is broken down!
My adhd don't give a damn about balancing speed vs quality, the only thing my adhd cares about is making sure I put in a ton of time and love and effort in to painting my model to about 70% complete and then making the executive decision that I can never touch it again.
Your videos are always interesting, but this one is particularly valuable, IMO. I can't wait for the next one in that new series!
Magenta also works as a wonderful preshade to a blue or teal basecoat. Gives a wonderful purple tone in the shadows that gives such great variance to schemes.
Exactly the comment i was looking for!
last
Why do people ask that question? Participating in this hobby is a "enjoy the journey more than the destination" sort of thing. At the very least hyperfocus on the "destination" being really awesome. Simply, I'm not understanding the motivation/genesis as to why someone would ask "how long did that take" if the result is banana's and you love WH40k.
Anyone?
I think I enjoy your more relaxed detailed stuff more, but man for two hours this is amazing result. It would probably take like 6h when you're a regular human being without 100 golden demons I suppose 😂 still it's awesome. I don't care about speed painting but this was still good content and as always we can learn something from each video. Thank you! I have high hopes for integrating oils into regular painting, so was really glad to see you use some in the new vid :)
I appreciate the attempts in nerd comedy! 😊
"Why Isn't Everyone Painting like THIS?"
Uses an Airbrush Setup that costs hundreds of dollars......
MILLIONS of dollars
...I think most people lack your confidence, knowledge, experience, and creativity. I think that's why they're not painting like you. Love your channel though. ❤
Easy way to get a clean edge with tape, is spray the colour under the tape first, so the gaps fill with the colour that’s already there, then the colour on top is sharper. You can use a flat clear instead of colour if it’s a complex thing underneath but has the same effect. You basically prefil the gaps with something that doesn’t matter then apply the colour you actually want on top :)
Great video buddy! Really liked this :)
One advice for the "masking tape wonky lines" at around 5:30, after you applied the tape your initial layer should be the base layer and then overspray with the color you want. So, in your example you spray a black base layer, then put masking tape on, then spray another layer of black over the tape and then spray the grey/white layer.
This should give you a perfect line from the masking tape.
cool, I need to try that! I am trying to wrap my head around that and can't quite figure it out...why does this work?
@trovarion No idea why it works, but it does. I learned this from my brother in law while painting a bi-colored wall and Harder&Steenbeck also mentioned this in the latest video "Tips for airbrushing with masks" at 3:30.
@@trovarionthe bleed is essentially paint going into gaps, so by painting the base colour again, ontop of the fresh masking tape your making a seal, and the bleed through won’t be seen as it’s the same colour as the base.
Spray the next colour ontop having no chance to bleed now as the previous colour filled the gaps in
Seriously on point with the Arnold quotes
A tip on masking, spray with the other color first to avoid bleeding, so then you did the white, start that with a black, for if it bleeds it will not show on the black side, and it will clog the places the white can bleed
are yellow black templars a thing?
When I use oils I use cotton swabs if i want to leave some staining, if i'm trying to remove more the little double ended make-up sponges do a better job and leave no fibers behind. But like any technique repetition is the key to success!
Thanks for sharing!
6:27 (adjusts glasses) technically energy weapons work by creating a field around the fist. So punching does not make the gauntlet touch the object it punches.
Oh shieet, I got my made up science wrong
@@trovarion totally. You must feel so ashamed right now ;) ... Danke fürs Video!
Great vid as always Trovarion. I love the detailed explanation process and breakdown at the end. I cannot wait to see the next one in the series! 😊
Thank you for this, Trovarion! This video is perfect for my situation. Im starting my 3rd army - Wolves. I want to paint marines with a volume look, I want it to not look like dog shit and be as quick about it as I can be.
What are the downsides to pre-shading then adding a translucent base color vs. no preshading and building gradients by layering? It seems most high quality paint jobs don't use the preshading alone to build the base gradients.
question is what result you want. I'd say you can get 80% of the smoothness and control from the preshading method that you can get from working with the brush. Sometimes you want that extra percent smoothness (for Golden DEmon for example); sometimes you are happy with the 80% because it takes a fraction of the time.
to me using the brush is also more fun, but I am not an outcome oriented painter, I paint because the activity is fun to me.
@@trovarion A cool video topic would be you explaining how to achieve a display level piece and how much time and technique goes into it to do that extra 20%.
Really enjoyed this video! The magenta preshading technique is something I never would have thought to try, but it looks amazing-I can't wait to give it a go. I'm also excited to experiment with applying contrast paint using an airbrush; the results seem really smooth and vibrant. The discussion on oil washes was super insightful too-definitely going to incorporate that into my workflow. Thanks for sharing these methods!
Bumblebee style is always nice 👍
ill never understand the appeal of air brushing outside of "it's faster than hand brushing". I dunno why but it just doesn't speak to me :(
Because I don't own an airbrush and don't feel comfortable about using one. I also don't own masking paste, masking tape, decal solvent or many of the tools you own. Getting them in the quality needed is not that easy, especially if you have a lower income.
I also like to take my time with each miniature. It's kind of like meditating. The results are good enough to make me very happy and I don't really care if I will ever finish my army in my lifetime or not. It's the process of painting and looking at what I already accomplished, that fulfills me.
The chapter markings are on the wrong shoulder. Thought maybe the image was mirror flipped but there's the squad number readable. The image is shattered and my soul is crushed. For shame.
When masking like this, paint the first color over the edge of the masking tape first (your grey "white). Then paint the black. When you take of the masking tape you have a perfect edge.
Which also means, in your case, you would need to do the white side first. It wouldn't work so well the other way because white doesn't cover black so well ;-)
Cotton swabs are disgusting... Try a microfiber cloth, like the ones used to clean glasses. Even a brush works better. People also recommend small makeup sponge things... But I'm yet to find ones that don't turn into gunk.
2 minutes in and the crux terminatus is just casually cut away...good bye tiny little sliver of the Emperor's own armour, I'm positive a decal will replace you equally! :p
I paint with oil a lot and i think it is very very very underrated. Yes th drying time is high, but the painting time is very fast. If you paint a lot of models, it is much faster overall.
I start with acrylic paints, airbrush the base color, base coating the rest. Then depending of the kind of material, i use different styles like drybrushing, dippling or scratching for leather, whatever needed. Then i apply all kinds of oil paints. If i need color blends, i don't use layering, takes too long. I do all blends only with oil paints. Also the highlights, you can dip a little spot on an edge and then smooth it out along the edge to get even these blendings in your highlights super fast. With enough training you can even paint NMM ultra fast with oil, but i am not good enough for it :D
After everything is done, i seal the paint with varnish and do the weathering with oil at last, because it is a substractive method. You just put a blob of color wherever you want it, wait a bit, than remove it again where you have your highlights. It is super fast, super simple, and good textures will look amazingly realistic.
It is the fastest high quality method i know.
I like how you used yellow as a “hahaha try this at home, fools!” Oh man I hate yellow. I mean, I love it but, man alive it’s a colour that just doesn’t want to be painted.
Love the video and the final result. Keep’em coming! 👍
Would dry brushing the magenta lightly also work if I don’t own an airbrush? I’d like to take this technique for my bad moons Killa kans
do you use tamiya masking tape ? It's really the best there is.Hands down.
It also helps if you don't spray from the non-masked area towards the masked area. Straight down on the edge is the most you should do. Minding your airbrush pressure has also some effect. The less pressure the better.
This comes from scalemodeling.
When you use masking tape, like you did on the fist, you have to form a dried paint seal. So you would mask up, airbrush the black, mask the black, then instead of doing that white like you wanted, you have to spray down a layer of black first. This forms a seal against the tape, so after it dries fully you can go ahead and do the white half. When you peel up the tape, it should be a perfect line. It's annoying but that's how tape be.
2.5 hrs for one miniature is rough.. especially for a "speed" video.. I look at the unpainted minis and go "2.5 hrs for each one of those? no thanks". Great video though just hard to motivate when painting takes so long
You can eliminate the paint smudge or leakage under the mask by painting with the masked color tone before applying the final color.
I mean, you painted the black side first, then masked it to paint the white side, instead of painting it white straight away (or light gray as you did), you should paint it black before painting it gray, this way you kind of seal the mask and the paint won't smudge or leak under it, so you use the color your mask is covering since that one is going to leak and seal the mask and won't be seen since it's the same color (not sure I made sense :P).
The only thing I think I would change in your methodology is when you are only painting one model you are spending more time with mistakes than if you have the technique perfected.
For example: The streak and grime step you had to refine, and you kept the time in doing that in your final calculation. I think you should use the refined timeframe leaving out the first failed attempts. So that the timing is closer to the 2nd-4th mini painted in this method vs. the first one where you are refining the technique. Even if you are using estimates. To me this would be more accurate if you used this method over many models as your refined technique would be faster.
Painting well quickly is a a microcosm of the painting world. It's a collection of techniques and shortcuts that you can get lost in and forget the theory behind it all that makes it work. I've had to go back and learn the theory to make it all make sense for me, and it gave me a number of new tools along the way. I'd encourage all novice painters to really consider why they're doing what they're doing and ask if there's a better way to get where they want to go.
What PSI are you using for the Airbrush for
1. Underpainting
2. Glazing the base coat on top
?
If you do an incredibly bad paint job but act super proud, people won’t say anything about how it looks. Prove me wrong
If your more precise with your oil pin wash instead of running the brush over multiple areas then you will only get a small dot to clean up where the brush touched the model. Instead of using cotton buds, use a brush which is slightly dampened (not wet/soaked) with white spirit, enamel thinner, whatever your using. Great looking model though and a very helpful video.
Edit: With the oil streaks use a far smaller brush, don't dilute the oil paint and apply tiny dots; and like above slightly dampened with with spirit ect, it's less random but you literally drag the streak down, then kind of clean in/blend/shape alternating between each side of the streak in the direction of gravity/the streak. I think you've gotten a bit confused with another technique called oil dot filters when your using the larger brushes, which again are too big and you don't want fanned bristles. This technique creates subtle streaks and filters of colour adding variation to the surface which also doubles up as a shade on the lower part and highlight on the upper part. It probably wouldn't be doable on models at this scale, but is perfect for vehicles and dreadnoughts. You cover the surface with tiny dots of oil paints in multiple colours to complement the colour of the panel and it can also be used to show a bit of grime and dust. Placing the darker colours towards the bottom and lighter towards the top. So the bottom you could use brown, orange and possibly red dots, the top of the panel pale yellow, white, pale grey. You then sweep a slightly moistened brush up and down the panel spreading out and blending the oil dots, this creats a filter which has colour variations throughout it adding a lot of interest.
The best person to learn how to use oil and enamel paints from is a RUclips scale modeller called Night Shift, the man is a painting god!
Concept idea:
Follower send in a picture of their miniature with described color set, you copy and improve it so the user can use the improvement on their own color set on their own army.
Perhaps add, remove or change a color, or add a technique. You would help the community improve their armies and it would give you new challenges as long as there is an army to improve.
I choose to give you this tip, because I need help and you are the most competent artist of all warhammer youtubers. Trovarion, we need yo... *transmission ended*
For this size model, instead of cotton swabs you should consider using micro swabs. They don't have the long fibers like cotton swabs and will let you target the individual oil streaks better.
A good trick to avoid bleeding under the masking tape is to do a clear mat varnish before spraying actual paint. Varnish the masking point and let it dry than do the paint and clear varnish will seal the wholes where the paint would go. Your masking will be straight as hell :)
Hey I have a question, how do you fix mistakes made over an area painted by airbrush with a lot contrast, like if you put mettalic in the place (especially if the is a lot of color changing like in an shaded area)
i find that makeup sponges work better at removing oil paint the cotton swabs. you can get a big bag of makeup sponges and cut them into multiple smaller sponges and make the bag last a long time. i would also recommend using gloves cuz oil paints is messy! thanks for the video, you rock bro!
Mmmmm i don't know. Probably because not everyone has an airbrush 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I think the fun factor will always be monotonous when painting for speed since you need as few steps as possible and a technique that requires the least amount of precision.
Also, did the production quality go up or is it just me?