Your review confirms what I suspected when I sent you the filter. The FoMoCo filter for the Ford GT is a "heavy duty" version of the Motorcraft FL-500S. Both are clearly made by Purolator. The FoMoCo filter has a thicker base plate, thicker can, thicker media, and better (stronger) glue. Of course, the bypass valve settings may be different between the two filters. I would not use the FL-500S on a Ford GT. I suspect the differences between the two filters are necessary differences for the GT's engine. The other OEM factory-fit FoMoCo filters other viewers have mentioned are all made by Champion Labs. Champ has had the factory-fit oil filter contract for Ford for decades. Purolator has the service-fit contract and those filters are marketed as Motorcraft. I think this GT filter may be the only Ford application where the factory-fit and service-fit filters are the same and both are made by Purolator.
Some of the recent FoMoCo filters cut open on Bob is the Oil Guy seem to be made by Purolator or on a Purolator/Wix consolidated production line, and the stubby filter that comes on some of the new 3 cylinder ecoboosts appears to be made by Mann.
@@brandonupchurch7628 Thanks for pointing that out. My information about Champion and factory-fit filters is probably dated, especially since Ford has gone to cartridge filters on some of their newer engines.
FoMoCo RED employee here, Dearborn Campus. I can confirm that applications that specify high tensile burst strength are getting Purolator filters during assembly. Champ Labs overbid on the higher spec'd filters, and M&H (Purolator) gave us a significantly lower bid and higher burst rating. Expect to see Purolator-built FoMoCo filters on all forced induction or high compression factory engines moving forward. Champ makes a good, standard, high filtration filter that's perfect for engine break-in (and truth be told, could probably withstand a catastrophic engine failure without bursting) but Ford saw a miniscule probability of an issue, and proactively sought to avoid it. I've worked for Daimler-Chrysler, BMW, and now Ford, and I can say without hesitation that Ford engineers are not beholden to the corporate beancounters like the engineers at Chrysler and BMW. Ford would rather spend the extra 40 cents and avoid a recall, while BMW would risk a recall if there was a cost benefit of two cents in negative unit cost. Ford wants its customers to get over 100k miles out of a vehicle, while Chrysler and BMW can't see beyond the typical 36 month lease. I don't know if Chrysler has changed since the Fiat/Stellantis merger, but under Daimler, they adopted the typical German creed of "let's make it the best car money can buy for 36 months and 50k miles, at which point it will require a complete frame-off restoration and powertrain rebuild."
I also worked for a Tier 1 OE supplier. The parts that were painted for Ford first had to have a base layer of plating (copper & nickel) BEFORE the paint went on. For the GM and Chrysler parts, a quick slap of paint and they were out the door.
If the FoMoCo had a handle welded on the side allowing me to use it as a coffee mug after it had done its job filtering oil...that would make the price difference a little more understandable
That price probably reflects the low production of the GT that it's specifically made for. At the same time, the cheap one is probably so cheap because it was made for vehicle models that number in the millions. Limited production parts always cost exponentially more than mass produced parts and the GT is extremely limited.
I'd have never thought I'd sit through almost 15 minutes of video about oil filters, but in all honesty it was interesting to see the differences. I already knew factories manufacture similar or the same part then either grind logos off or put different labels on and package them in plain boxes, but charging 25x the amount for something that would in theory do exactly the same job is just criminal. On the other hand, if you can afford a Ford GT then you're not really going to think about the cost of an oil filter, even more so when I bet new discs and pads are probably $20k+......🥴
Man that's a hefty price for that Fomoco filter. No reason for it to be that much higher in cost vs that motorcraft even with the small quality differences. I could see if it costed the same as a higher branded oil filter but 80 dollars for a darn oil filter that's crazy. Thanks for showing us the insides on these.
I used to drag race. If you ever saw an oil filter blow apart or the spin- on threads strip off of the mount you would understand the thicker walled housing, metal crimp on the media ends and additional thread count. However, the price differential between the two is waaaay out of whack. The other comments with greater oil flow (pressure) and higher RPM's are spot on. Then there is oil viscosity. I used 20w50 in my engine.
I maintain and repair a fleet of 33 transit buses. 6.8L V10's and a few of the newer 7.3L gas engines. I use and purchase my oil filters from a Ford dealership and they use the very same oil filter daily that I do. The motorcraft filters were on the engines brand new... having been at this for most of a lifetime, IF the oil pressure gets to the point that the thicker metal can makes a difference, you got BAD problems... not just an oil filter issue.
Great Presentation. All these companies have to hate RUclips. People like you keep them honest or flat out expose them. I do all my oil changes on my 2014 f150 5.0 and I use Mobil 1 high mileage with the motorcraft filter. So far so good. Thx
It’s like the common Motorcraft FL-1A & FL-1HP that Ford used forever and their common V6’s & V8’s with the HP filter having a thicker can and the suggested filter for the 460 big block. If you can afford the Ford GT then an $80 filter probably doesn’t phase ya. Great video!
Many years ago during my apprenticeship I did a tour of a factory that made oil filters in Melbourne, Australia. I was amazed to see the only difference was the paint. Valvoline, Ryco, Ford Motorcraft, Toyota, Mitsubishi etc.
Good review. I used to work in the filtration industry. Glue, Black=Plastisol, White=epoxy. Thicker baseplate and can equals a much higher impulse and pressure rating (usually). The media would need special test procedures to determine the characteristics. Measuring number of pleats, amount and thickness of the media will not tell you much about it's performance but it could tell you if it was the same media. I agree the price is outrageous, but the application may actually require that filter.
Those fingers on the anti-drain back valve are to prevent it from blocking the bypass valve. If it folds back completely, that would mean oil starvation if the filter was clogged.
I believe the FL500S bypass Valve is 8 PSI to allow faster flow on cold starts. The FOMOCO allows for high volume oil pumps. Not sure on the PSI but I do not believe many would be driving a GT 40 in the Winter..
First thing to remember is there are very limited number of oil filter manufacturers in the USA and for that matter world wide although China anybody can make or fake anything. I have been a auto/heavy duty truck mechanic for over three decades as well as wrenching on a variety of race cars from Top Fuel to weekend warriors at the strip and oval track cars from dirt track endurance class to NASCAR Xfinity class and most every thing in between as well as SCCA road racing to IMSA. So oil and oil filters I have some definite opinions on. One thing that was not mentioned in the comparison of the two filters is looking the total volume of the filter media by multiplying the the thickness of the media by the area of the media. Additionally it has been my experience that thicker media that is exactly the same type of material as a thinner will filter more impurities/particulates out. Why does Ford recommend this filter my off the cuff SWAG is the thicker can, base plate, filter material indicates that the Ford GT engine has a higher pressure and volume oil pump and somewhere along the way in testing they burst the filter, blew it out, or had a filter material blow out this is further backed up by the crimped filter material seem rather than pleated and glued. I have witnessed all three with high performance engines and any of the three is never a good thing. My visual way to judge an oil filter is by the thickness of the housing and the number of mounting threads in the base plate. Let’s be honest you have to get down to pretty cheap oil filter for a cheap base gasket and drain back valve and why I hunt deals on the filters I use I don’t go bottom basement price shopping because I have seen what engines that have been run on 99 cent filters look like
Nice video. However I would be mostly interested in the difference between the real filtering capability as well as oil flow obstruction and how well the filter ages.
I agree. Just because some of the metalwork of the FoMoCo filter is thicker it doesn't necessarily mean it is a better filter - just stronger - but the Motorcraft filter may be adequately strong for its intended duty.
I'm based in the UK. I don't drive any more, but when I did I always used to do my own servicing at home. The cheapo equivalent outlet here is Halfords - it sells all the maintenance basics to a guaranteed high standard but at a fraction of the cost of the 'real' ones. I imagine everybody watching this Channel does their own basic servicing at home rather than trust a so-called 'pro' garage (ha!), so they'll know that it's WAY more important to change oil filters frequently than to hold on to an old one for the maximum permitted time according to the service manual. The high-priced filter is, of course, the right item for the job. I'm well aware that a high-performance sports car will often have specific components that ought not to be substituted for anything else, but if you can afford to run a Ferrari or whatever, you'll not be worrying about a few extra £££s on the service bill. So I'm not talking about ultra-modern, highly-tuned cars, here, which can diagnose their own systems according to usage. I'm talking about ordinary people running normal cars. They can definitely benefit from cheaper replacement parts. A 12-month oil-and-filter change is a terrible idea; a 6-month change is reasonable, and - if you thrash your car - a change every 3 months or more is better still. The beauty of a cheap (but satisfactory) filter like the one in the video is you can change it 3 or 4 times as often as the book recommends and still not break the bank. It won't do any harm, and you'll save a huge amount of cash compared to swapping a more expensive one more frequently between services. The money saved can be spent on getting a top quality oil, and/or put aside for the kind of annual 'technical' garage servicing (emissions/diagnostics, etc) that can't be done at home. As long as you're not trying to save a few quid by home-servicing your £3,000,000 Bugatti, I think this is one case where 'buy cheap and you buy twice' is actually a pretty good idea.
Purolator has been making Motorcraft filters for a long time. One thing I like about the Motorcrafts is the upper bypass valve, which I prefer. A bottom bypass valve can allow debris to get into the engine.
@@bigdaddymak1439 The filter design is still Purolator and easily recognized. It's true that M&H is now sole owner, but spin on filters still made in Fayetteville NC, Purolator factory. Previously they were co-owned By Mann and Bosch. Topic filters are made by Purolator to FoMoCo Motorcraft specs.
All by pass valves will allow debri by once its been opened though. I see the benifit of a by pass valve near the exit being quicker to getting oil back due to location but I can't confirm which location is best.
As a Ford Senior Master Technician i see the differences between cheap oil filters and quality oil filters every day and the same goes for fuel and air filters as well. Personally i love it when people decide to use cheap filters since it makes me tons of money. The HG7Z-6731-A is exclusive for the Ford GT and it has to do with the very high oil pressures of the Ford GT. If you put a FL-500 on a Ford GT it will ballon and blow off and then you will have a very expensive engine replacement. The Ford GT also runs a dry sump oil system with 5W50 Castrol Edge Supercar full synthetic oil which is way different than your typical production vehicles with wet sump oil systems with engines running anything from 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or other specific weight oils.
Just an FYI: Early in my Aerospace Engineering career, I was in charge of the Oil Filters on the F-16 Fighter Program. Kid Engineer and learned lots ... and secrets. My Company has rigid specs (more than Ford's GT 40 I assure you) and when we do that, it is required that both Parties participate in "Validation" of materials used/manufacturing processes (SOF/QUAL). Bottom line: pretty much all Oil Filters are the same and they ALL go to "bypass mode" after about 30 minutes; that is the only time it is actually "filtering" (nothing to do with "miles", only "hours"). So you can see that unless you have a specific reason (like if you are racing a GT 40 or flying at Mach speed at 40,000 feet and can't just "pull over" if your Oil Filter gasket/can springs a leak), there is NO reason to pay $75 for an Oil Filter. IMHO
I was surprised how many piston aircraft don't even have an oil filter. My 1954 Bonanza didn't. Some brand new engines I understand don't and the engine is usually in the 40-70K range. I think my 1954 engine if it were made today new would be about $40K. Rebuilt I set aside $35K. I once ran it 80 hours without a change. That was too long. I made sure I change the oil ever 50 hours and it was fine. I worked with a guy years ago that used to work for the petroleum institute. He said changing the oil wasn't as important as the oil filter. I always wondered if he was right. I think he said he changed the filter on time. The oil itself every 20K miles. Has to be fully synthetic.
@@johncunningham4820 True but anything above 65 psi it would be wise to shut her down and find the obstruction. As long as the "normal Filter" Can and Gasket hold, I would opt for the Motorcraft ... the gasket material/dimensions appear to be the same. I have a friend over here (French Riviera) that has one of the newer GT40's ... and if you can afford one here, the cost of a Filter doesn't really matter .... LOL.
@@robertthomas5906 Indeed they do not ... and why Oil Changes need to be based on "Hours" not miles; just like with Earth Moving Equipment. But there are also "Hydraulic Filters" on Aircraft as well ... same deal ... "Hours" only.
Great teardown. I always bring an FL-500S with me to the oil change place when I get my F150's oil changed. My F150 Ecoboost has been trouble-free for 106k miles. I imagine the price premium for the FoMoCo filter is because they have an F150 price, and a Ford GT price. Might have to pester my local Ford house about a filter sometime.
A significant portion of the premium will be the significant changes everywhere in the filter - every piece of the FoMoCo filter is better quality, which means production changes that add expense.
I have used a number of makes of filter on my bike. I only ever use one oil and that is Silkoline synthetic. it is changed every 4000 miles and is still clean when changed. That is one factor to engine longevity. The other is NOT thrashing it when cold as 70% + wear comes from cold driving 🙂
Ty for the video and hard work you do, I just rebuilt my Ford cyclone 3.7, I was looking to see what the best filter is. I use to use ford racing filter but the prices are over $20 for a filter. This video really helped.
I am glad to see it’s not the same filter. If you spend more money you get better quality. Even tho I would never spend that much money on an oil filter and Iv never complained about the motorcraft filter.
You got to remember that the oil filter is only good for an oil change , not forever , save the money .The oil filters are designed based on oil weight , and micron filtering requirements .If you change your oil on a regular basis, any filter ( that is specified for your engine ) should work just fine.
Right now a Ford GT is selling on the market for $500,000 to $600,000. I'd like to mention that I was homeless as a teenager for a while and I'm 100% not trying to sound like a rich jerk here - this is practical advice. As a cash buyer of new european exotic cars ordered from authorized dealers since 1996, I usually tell folks who ask what the 'buyer experience' is like: 1) if you need a loan to buy an exotic, you should probably work harder on building up your income and net worth first, and when you arrive, it is a cool feeling, especially when you were a homeless guy 2) if you buy an exotic and pay cash, you can afford to own one. In this case, your income and net worth mean you can afford to always let the dealer perform any/all maintenance, and to only use factory recommended parts The dealer always is more expensive than 'Joe's foreign auto service' and the factory-recommended parts are always more expensive than those from O'Reilly etc. My first car was a used Pontiac T1000 with 65,000 miles on it. I could not afford to pay the dealer service techs. Later, after college, after a couple 'experiences,' I said 'no more auto repair shops' and have never regretted it. My two lessons: - a 'Joe's Auto Repair' replaced the clutch in my used Fiero and dropped a bolt in the housing and it destroyed the clutch in about 100 miles and I had to sue them to get the clutch done at a Pontiac dealership - a Speedy Oil Change broke something in my Toyota MR2 turbo and it had to be towed from the Speedy place to a Toyota dealer I pay hundreds of dollars for each oil change for my exotics. Factory-trained mechanics do that work. Point being, if you have an expensive vehicle, do not be a cheapskate with anything during your ownership .
@@Greg_Chase Reminds me of the old story where the owner of a very expensive car was complaining to the dealer that the car did not want to start on cold mornings. The dealer replied, "If you can afford this car, you can afford to heat your garage." 😀
@@Greg_Chase It's nice to have money and be able to afford going to the dealer's "Factory-trained mechanics" But how many stories have you heard about the dealer shipping the car back to the customer because they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Then the customer has to take it to Joe and he fixes it!
@@Greg_Chase while I understand your sentiment, and about 90% agree with you, we also need to remember that we are all human and make mistakes. But to the n'th degree, a majority of the Technicians that work on these types of vehicles are not just starting out. The older, more experienced guys do tend to get it right the first time. But that can also be said about many other independent shops, especially those that specialize in high-line vehicles, as compared to good ole' Joe.
i used to work for Crossland filters, we made filters for motor craft, and crossland branded filters, they was identical in construction apart from the motor craft ones had motor craft formed in one side of the foam moulding. and oil filters where just diffrent praintings and packaging.
GMdoes something similar. They have the PF63E and the UPF63R filter. Same dimensions and thread but the UPF63R is for 2018 and up high feature V6 and the PF63E is for older high feature V6 not sure exactly what the difference is but the UPF63E is noticeably heavier. And I know the bulletin that says to use it states the PF63E filters were rupturing from the higher oil pressure on the newer engines leading to fires. A customer at our dealerships 2018 Acadia burnt to the ground on their way home from a jiffy lube oil change and I’m assuming that was the reason. (Although I don’t know) I do know that the PF63E is only like a $5 filter and the UPF63R is a $12 filter. You should open up both of those.
The FL-500 also fits on GM vehicles which use the PF-48 filter. I used to run the FL-500 filter on my Chevy SS with the 6.2L LS3 engine. It was slightly larger than the PF-48 and better quality.
Looking at the difference it looks like the engine might run at much higher oil pressure, but that is only a guess. Personally, the Fomoco filter looks like it should sell for about twice the price of the Motorcraft. Ford is taking advantage of the owners of an expensive car.
If you have ever had the 'pleasure' of having a thin wall oil filter can split (2 in a row) and gush oil over your drive way, you will appreciate a thick walled filter can. Yes, I know the good one is more expensive, but engine rebuilds are even more so.
@@elonmust7470 it was an Auto Zone filter, man it caused me to have a bad day, it split at the border line at SanYsidro and San Diego, it was on a V6 Mustang, Luckily the Motor did not blow...
3.5 315 HP V6…. I use the 500S in my ‘09 Taurus. Just did an oil change yesterday. And I did note, the thickness or, lack of makes removing the old filter a pain. The thin walled body cup crushes.
Grab the filter one near the ends, not in the middle! Preferably the top (open end), as the bottom can cause more torque transfer to the seal/threads/housing.
The only real difference is that one came from the Ford factory, so you pay far more. In the late 1990s I needed a power window motor/drive unit for a 1980 Monte Carlo. Dealer - $128 NAPA Auto - $56 (rebuilt) Kragen Auto - $38 (rebuilt) My choice? Pick a Part junk yard - $16 (worked just like new)
From experience, I can tell you that engines we diagnosed with oiling system issues were cured in just minutes using the dealer supplied correct part number motorcraft filter, and motorcraft brand oil of the specified weight. If it works as designed with the specified stuff? That's good and correct service and practices. Happy motoring, with your...engine.
I have a new F150 with the 3.5L twin turbo. The FoMoCo is a little better built but the cheaper Motorcraft meets all the warranty requirements so that is the one I will use. I believe the quality of the oil and oil changes per the engine algorithm is far more important than what this video showed as differences between oil filters.
The dark glue is plastisol, the white is epoxy. Both filters use phenolic resin impregnated paper. The difference in manufacturing labor cost between these two is negligible. The material cost difference is probably quite a bit because of purchase quantities. Overall, I would be surprised if there was even a five times difference.
I can't see from what we learned from dissecting this filter, how Ford can justify the extra $75ish for the "better" filter. I was expecting more clear differences. Thanks for posting this video. Good video!
"Justify" is hardly ever a factor. People the value/cost stuff goes out the window if marketing is successful in getting you to buy into "costs more, must be better". There are certainly lots of unquestionable parts and pieces where the best costs more but opens that door to the ones where the price is high but the quality is not better.
@@jimmyaber5920 So true Jimmy. I can see the folks with the $100,000 vehicles dropping the $75 for the filter no question. Otherwise, I think the FL500S is a pretty good filter. Much better than lots of aftermarket cheapy filters for sure.
Both filters are made by Purolator for Ford/Motorcraft. As Scott said, the FMC is a/the factory filter installed there, so technically it is OE. The Motorcraft is the Ford OEM OF. I don't know if the viewer paid $77, but I wouldn't. It likely costs so much because it's not readily available and/or intended for general purchase. As for the FL 500 "coming apart" while "cutting" the media off, that is not something would affect function. In other words, it's not a force that would be applied in real world OF use. Not a concern imho. The one pleat area on the FL500S a little wide but I expect it would fine in use. Ford (Purolator) makes what they call a Racing PP filter that can be purchased for less than $20 but I don't know if it fits the GT. At $77, if one didn't want to go with FL500S, I'd be looking for a much less expensive option. Thanks for video.
Wrong, the oem fomoco are made by champion labs. Same manufacturer that makes supertech sold by Walmart. Only motorcraft aftermarket are made by Purolator.
Motorcraft filter is very good, I used them when I worked for industrial and marine distributor. the price diff is cash grab so not necessary. Bottom line is change your oil at OEM intervals. Old days engines had by pass filter then change filter every second oil change. We use to have display on OEM oil filter and box store oil filters. Yes I agree on your test and comparison . Well done thanks
The GT engine has a high flow and pressure oil system hence the extra features on the filter for it. Extra threads to stop the pressure causing issues. The metal seam is because glued seams would come apart with the extra pressure and just a stronger casing for that pressure.
Not to call you guys idiots, but you both sound like idiots. In all of the performance engines I've had (multi thousand horsepower alcohol v8s & 1000+ horsepower turbo 4 cylinders), engines that push more oil pressure at a higher rpm than your gt500 engines will ever see; I have never seen an oil filter fail due to pressure......
Great review. For general service applications and OCIs Motorcraft is probably the best choice. If I were racing the GT professionally I would possibly go with the FoMoCo. Maybe.
At that price differential, you could change oil & Motorcraft filter 3x for the price of one oil & FoMoCo filter change. So you could reduce your Motorcraft filter & oil change intervals to 1/3 of the FoMoCo filter interval and still come out even in cost. You'd always have cleaner oil, so less wear & tear, all other factors being equal.
@@WhipCityWrencher The warrantee can only be voided if they can show that what you did caused the problem that you're trying to get warrantee service for.
It appears that the biggest difference is in the heavy duty construction. If this engine runs at a higher oil pressure or has extreme vibration it could be a factor, otherwise it probably won't matter. If the media has a higher flow rate and the engine actually uses it, then that could be a problem, but it's very unlikely.
No, I have a good oil filter cutter. www.amazon.com/Speedway-Motors-Diameter-Features-Adjustable/dp/B01N156ODN/ref=asc_df_B01N156ODN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4448578597783746796&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001685&hvtargid=pla-890219125561&psc=1&mcid=cc32a1fbe4463be8a91efb520452bf57&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=96944448914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4448578597783746796&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001685&hvtargid=pla-890219125561&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaG9DW2ihJNeZermHoOfFmN-CXPY2q_wfc3rX5cDMGRl74uEiT-E8uQaAu2wEALw_wcB
I suspect the Fomoco filter is specifically designed to to handle higher pressure differential. With the metal crimped screen and thicker metal pieces, even the string would help keep the media from expanding. I wonder what the filter rating is on that media.
Am more impressed with the cheap one, its quality is 95 percent of the high-end filter, makes me feel better knowing that our consumer cars get 95 percent of the quality of luxury car parts.
"Limited production" of the FoMoCo part would likely be one of the reasons it has such a high price tag, even though the components are very similar to the $4 one that likely moves 100s or 1000s of times more filters per year; I completely agree with others in the comments that it should be priced around $20-30.
This is the winning take. They probably made a run of a couple ten thousand to start with and the retooling costs aren't amortized like they are with millions of other filters. Why the limited run? Just for GT40s, because high pressure/high volume oiling from the dry sump system. Would really suck to lose your half-million dollar car on a track day because you were near redline a bit long and split the cheaper oil filter's case open, sprayed down the red-hot turbos, and burned it to the ground.
@@mfree80286 The oil pressure in the GT 40 is the same as any modern vehicle 40-60psi. It is NOT a high pressure system. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.
When I worked at ford all the new cars had them filters. But we would install Motorcraft filters there after. My thought is they filter smaller particals then a Motorcraft filter and the factory uses these for engine break in since ford as well as most company's dont break in engines at the factory. All the fresh machining and burrs in an engine when it's fresh need to be cleaned up during break in and my guess is this is a factory filter to help with extra partials from break in. When I worked at dodge they did the same thing and chevy as well. Iv worked for all the big 3 lol
With the big price difference you could on a 10,000-mile oil change, you could change the filter every 1,000 miles in between oil changes. And still, be ahead of the game. I don't know what the oil change mileage recommendation is, but a fresh oil filter every month might keep the oil cleaner. The real contest is when the oil is changed at the recommended mileage having the used oil checked to see if one is any cleaner. Are you just wasting $75.00? That is the biggest question. I would like to see a comparison of the used oil after the exact mileage, It all comes down to, are the filters doing the job it's paid to do. It would take more time than just cutting up a filter and it would have to be sent into a testing lab to be analyzed. But the bottom line is which one keeps the oil cleaner. A person could compare an oil sample from the same motor after 2,500 miles. That would be a good yardstick.
If you were to cheapen out and use the lower cost and lower quality material filter on the engines that it was designed for, you will be buying a new engine. That doesn't seem like you're saving anything.
I agree with Mr Ray your not comparing apples to apples this is a high performance filter for a high performance car compared to a standard filter if i spent that much money on a car with a high performance motor I'd want the better filter too
Although the FoMoCo filter might be beefier, I can't justify the cost..... For that $77, I can change my oil + Motomaster filter 3 times for the same cost.....
You can't really. Why? Because if you were to use the lower quality filter, it would be the last time you used it, because it would either blow out or even cave in under the pressure. Thus, your engine would run out of oil and ceize. But go head and cheapen out on your $400k vehicle.
I used to work on high line Euro cars. When customers would complain about filter costs, I would send them to a buddy down the street who was happy to put autozone parts on for them
The Mobil1 and Bosch filters (~$15) used to spec that they removed something like 98% of parictles 2 microns in size, versus cheap filters that filtered out a much lower percent of larger particles. Invisible to the eye, and maybe excessive for most engines...but a Ford GT. Yeah, I'd expect there's more than you'd see happening there.
Mobil filters are 99+% greater than 30 microns (writing on their box) and The Bosh Premium oil filters are 99% at 20 microns (Rockauto website). Thanks for your feedback👍
Could you post a link to this data source please, I work with OEM’s and have been told the regulation dust they use for testing filtration doesn’t go down as small as 2 microns. This would be very interesting. TIA
@@ripsic5830 I got the data from reading the box, on a Bosch and Mobil1 filter. I'm certain my memory and the actual numbers won't be the same, but they'll be in the same ballpark. Of course if an engine/turbo is built with tight specs, 2mu might matter. With looser specs, 10mu could be all an engine needs.
The fomoco filter is the filter that comes from the assembly plant and a 3.5 L and a 5.0 coyote engine the main reason why I know that is because I’ve done so many oil changes when I worked at the Ford dealer
Yeah, but that doesn't add to the topic - i.e. which is better, AND which is worth your money - like others on here, they look identical, and really I'd be spending my money on better oil than oil filter based on this tear-down.
I did not see any comparison of the gasket that seals the filter to the motor. That would make a bigger difference than the thickness of the head of the filter.
@@WhipCityWrencher My thought on comparison was more to the fact of how well they stayed attached to the filter.. That is the problem that people usually have with those gaskets is them coming off when they change the filter because they did not it did not oil it well enough before installation.
Heavier to prevent punctures during manufacturing and stronger glue because they may sit in oil a very long time on dealerships lots before sale and still have to hold up to milage by the customer without breaking down
The "heavier" cannisters are designed that way to PREVENT BURSTING under "cold oil" conditions and/or high-rpms, such as racing. The glue was made stronger to SEAL the Media to the End Caps better -- which is it's only job.
I wonder of operating oil pressure has anything to do with the differences in the construction? It certainly appears that the FoMoCo filter with the heavier components, metal filter seam, string wrap, etc. would be better suited for higher operating pressures at higher RPMs.
Yes, the heavy duty filter is meant for performance/track use. High volume, high pressure oil pump pushing high viscosity oil through a high rpm engine.
@@thoriated And the cheap oil filter can do it just as well as the expensive one. Do you actually have an idea of what the maximum oil pressure of the engine in the gt500 is? Do you have any relative ideas on what low, normal, & high oil pressures are in a vehicle? Do you have any idea on whether or not the oil filter actually sees that much pressure?
It will not matter which filter is made of which grade metal or material. All it will matter is that which provide better performance. Brother your video is awesome no doubt but you should make videos on performance with respect to price. Thanks.
When the fords started the 910s we used to get the FOMOCO until the motorcraft part came out. They were only about $7 vs $4 The 500s were the same way. The extreme Over charging is just ridiculous and obscene. Both will maintain your warranty.
It would be interesting to test the flow rates of the two filters. Also it worries me that the pleats are just glued together on the Motorcraft filter. If that joint should fail, the filter would be ineffective.
Without doing the calculations, it looks to me like the FOMOCO 8 round holes versus the Motorcraft 7 oval holes have similar total open areas, so flow should be almost identical between the two filters.
I kept reading the comments to see if anyone else noticed that. Even whip city didn't mention it. Other commenters talking about flow didn't get it right either. My congratulations Jim.
Stuff I didn’t know. I’ve used a lot of Motorcraft filters to no I’ll effects and regular and factory Hi Po street engines. I doubt I’ll ever own something like a GT, or maybe even one of the Shelby Mustangs, but this is good info to know.
Ford boss me recently posted a video of a few (4) FL 500 filters at his dealership having buggered up threads that would not thread onto the engines. I noticed then that there were very few threads in these filter bases. I personally prefer WIX
Take your time when screwing on the filter and you won’t have any trouble with cross threading, ham fisted installers are normally the problem not the filter, and don’t over tighten them, that will strip the threads.
These two filters will have been mass produced on automated production machinery. Whilst the Ford base plate may be thicker, that has no effects on oil filtration quality. The paper filter material will no doubt be produced by a manufacturer that supplies several companies making oil filters, so is likely to be virtually identical. Motocraft have a long history and are not about to market filters which don't do a very good job, and in comparison I can find no discernable difference between these two products which may explain the exorbitant price of the OE part! It is simply price gouging. I used to run a motorcycle workshop and would frequently cut open filters, and at no time did I ever find an aftermarket filter that wasn't comparable to the OE product.
What my take away is, FOMOKO, thicker can, and baseplate. Thicker media, crimped media ends and stronger glue. For me that would justify $10 to $15 more than the Motorcraft. However I don't have a Ford GT and the cost of oil filter is irrelevant.
For most of us The best oil filter is one that is changed frequently. I’d don’t have enough discretionary income to purchase a Ford GT but even if I did I refuse to spend that amount of $ for something that most likely would not return the investment.
Is it possible the FoMoCo's filter media is made out of gold-pressed latinum? Or maybe printing on the can itself costs $70 more than having the information on a sticker?
It would be quite embarrassing if you were rallying a GT, and blew a cheap filter out on the road somewhere. Other car guys, and the dealership would shake their heads. Dash images of the GT show 6200 rpm, 70 psi oil, 190 degree water, 160 degree oil, redline 7000.
The FoMoCo type filter is a production filter. All new Ford vehicles have this type of filter (white with black lettering) according to application. Ford has decided to sell the production filter for the GT to keep the car original. All other applications use the Motorcraft filter after the first oil change. Most of the Motorctaft filters are produced by Purolator with some exceptions. However, a Purolator filter is different from a Motorcraft filter even though Purolator produces them. Motorcraft filters is proprietary engineering for Ford & Purolator can't copy them. Also, Ford does offer High performance oil filters through Ford racing & dealers could have them in stock. How do I know this? I sell them at the dealer.
cutting it open tells you very little about the inherent quality of the internal parts , especially the filter medium, where the differences might only be noticeable under a microscope or under long term testing
These hack jobs seem silly. I agree, you need to do in-depth analysis. What would people say if it showed how much better it filtered the oil, or that it lasted so much longer? We can't know other than obvious factors like the thicker can.
@@rudolphguarnacci197 I guess when the only thing you can do on a vehicle is change the oil, that makes the filter interesting. I'm sure you know how to fill your washer fluid too.
Yes lets look at the same presentation after they have both gone 3,000 miles and see which filter is dirtier and what particles were captured. If possible.
Your review confirms what I suspected when I sent you the filter. The FoMoCo filter for the Ford GT is a "heavy duty" version of the Motorcraft FL-500S. Both are clearly made by Purolator. The FoMoCo filter has a thicker base plate, thicker can, thicker media, and better (stronger) glue. Of course, the bypass valve settings may be different between the two filters. I would not use the FL-500S on a Ford GT. I suspect the differences between the two filters are necessary differences for the GT's engine.
The other OEM factory-fit FoMoCo filters other viewers have mentioned are all made by Champion Labs. Champ has had the factory-fit oil filter contract for Ford for decades. Purolator has the service-fit contract and those filters are marketed as Motorcraft. I think this GT filter may be the only Ford application where the factory-fit and service-fit filters are the same and both are made by Purolator.
Some of the recent FoMoCo filters cut open on Bob is the Oil Guy seem to be made by Purolator or on a Purolator/Wix consolidated production line, and the stubby filter that comes on some of the new 3 cylinder ecoboosts appears to be made by Mann.
@@brandonupchurch7628 Thanks for pointing that out. My information about Champion and factory-fit filters is probably dated, especially since Ford has gone to cartridge filters on some of their newer engines.
Thanks, Gary for this Fomoco filter, and the information you provided.👍😊
@@brandonupchurch7628 Purloator and Wix are both owned my Mann/Hummal.
I am more than aware that Mann-Hummel owns Wix ad Purolator, that was the implication of my comment.
FoMoCo RED employee here, Dearborn Campus. I can confirm that applications that specify high tensile burst strength are getting Purolator filters during assembly. Champ Labs overbid on the higher spec'd filters, and M&H (Purolator) gave us a significantly lower bid and higher burst rating. Expect to see Purolator-built FoMoCo filters on all forced induction or high compression factory engines moving forward. Champ makes a good, standard, high filtration filter that's perfect for engine break-in (and truth be told, could probably withstand a catastrophic engine failure without bursting) but Ford saw a miniscule probability of an issue, and proactively sought to avoid it.
I've worked for Daimler-Chrysler, BMW, and now Ford, and I can say without hesitation that Ford engineers are not beholden to the corporate beancounters like the engineers at Chrysler and BMW. Ford would rather spend the extra 40 cents and avoid a recall, while BMW would risk a recall if there was a cost benefit of two cents in negative unit cost. Ford wants its customers to get over 100k miles out of a vehicle, while Chrysler and BMW can't see beyond the typical 36 month lease. I don't know if Chrysler has changed since the Fiat/Stellantis merger, but under Daimler, they adopted the typical German creed of "let's make it the best car money can buy for 36 months and 50k miles, at which point it will require a complete frame-off restoration and powertrain rebuild."
Thanks for sharing that information.
I also worked for a Tier 1 OE supplier. The parts that were painted for Ford first had to have a base layer of plating (copper & nickel) BEFORE the paint went on. For the GM and Chrysler parts, a quick slap of paint and they were out the door.
If the FoMoCo had a handle welded on the side allowing me to use it as a coffee mug after it had done its job filtering oil...that would make the price difference a little more understandable
🤣LOL
@Praise Jesus, Repent or Likewise Perish Nice FAIRY TALE!= 🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑🐑
Ya it would have to walk my dog as well,the motorcraft filter is more than adequate
Great video and the findings are very telling. Although the FoMoCo comes out as a better made filter it's not $73.75 better.
Great point!
Indeed
Absolutely agree.👍
That price probably reflects the low production of the GT that it's specifically made for. At the same time, the cheap one is probably so cheap because it was made for vehicle models that number in the millions. Limited production parts always cost exponentially more than mass produced parts and the GT is extremely limited.
For a $450,000 car, I would assume those who own/service them, disagree.
I'd have never thought I'd sit through almost 15 minutes of video about oil filters, but in all honesty it was interesting to see the differences. I already knew factories manufacture similar or the same part then either grind logos off or put different labels on and package them in plain boxes, but charging 25x the amount for something that would in theory do exactly the same job is just criminal.
On the other hand, if you can afford a Ford GT then you're not really going to think about the cost of an oil filter, even more so when I bet new discs and pads are probably $20k+......🥴
Thanks for watching!👍
Searching the fomoco part number shows it's a 40 dollar filter. I also have never seen an fl500s for under 4 dollars in my area. Maybe on sale.
@@ButterfatFarms plus shipping
Man that's a hefty price for that Fomoco filter. No reason for it to be that much higher in cost vs that motorcraft even with the small quality differences. I could see if it costed the same as a higher branded oil filter but 80 dollars for a darn oil filter that's crazy. Thanks for showing us the insides on these.
Your Welcome!
I used to drag race. If you ever saw an oil filter blow apart or the spin- on threads strip off of the mount you would understand the thicker walled housing, metal crimp on the media ends and additional thread count.
However, the price differential between the two is waaaay out of whack.
The other comments with greater oil flow (pressure) and higher RPM's are spot on.
Then there is oil viscosity.
I used 20w50 in my engine.
I maintain and repair a fleet of 33 transit buses. 6.8L V10's and a few of the newer 7.3L gas engines. I use and purchase my oil filters from a Ford dealership and they use the very same oil filter daily that I do. The motorcraft filters were on the engines brand new... having been at this for most of a lifetime, IF the oil pressure gets to the point that the thicker metal can makes a difference, you got BAD problems... not just an oil filter issue.
Thanks for Sharing!👍
Great Presentation. All these companies have to hate RUclips. People like you keep them honest or flat out expose them. I do all my oil changes on my 2014 f150 5.0 and I use Mobil 1 high mileage with the motorcraft filter. So far so good. Thx
Thank You!
I Appreciate it😊
@@WhipCityWrencher yw
It’s like the common Motorcraft FL-1A & FL-1HP that Ford used forever and their common V6’s & V8’s with the HP filter having a thicker can and the suggested filter for the 460 big block. If you can afford the Ford GT then an $80 filter probably doesn’t phase ya.
Great video!
Thank You!
So nice of Gary to send you this expensive filter! You would go broke if you had to pay so much for these filters. Have a great weekend! 😊
Thanks Ella,
Yes its nice when they send me filters.😊
Have a great weekend also! 👍
@@WhipCityWrencher Thanks, Cuz! 🙂
Can't go wrong w/Motorcraft oil or air filters in my experience! Run em religiously w/Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 in my truck. 👍💯
Thanks for sharing!
Many years ago during my apprenticeship I did a tour of a factory that made oil filters in Melbourne, Australia.
I was amazed to see the only difference was the paint.
Valvoline, Ryco, Ford Motorcraft, Toyota, Mitsubishi etc.
This doesn’t really surprise me honestly but it is good to know
Thanks for sharing👍
Back before the globalists took all our manufacturing to China
Changing oil every 5000km in the prado , as long as it holds together and doesnt leak makes no sense in having a really expensive filter.
What you have to remember is that things that were true back then, may not still be true.
I work at a ford dealership never knew they were different
Good review. I used to work in the filtration industry. Glue, Black=Plastisol, White=epoxy. Thicker baseplate and can equals a much higher impulse and pressure rating (usually). The media would need special test procedures to determine the characteristics. Measuring number of pleats, amount and thickness of the media will not tell you much about it's performance but it could tell you if it was the same media. I agree the price is outrageous, but the application may actually require that filter.
Thank You! and
Thanks for sharing!👍
Those fingers on the anti-drain back valve are to prevent it from blocking the bypass valve. If it folds back completely, that would mean oil starvation if the filter was clogged.
Thanks for the video and the donation by a fellow South Carolina oil filter fan.
You're Welcome!👍
I believe the FL500S bypass Valve is 8 PSI to allow faster flow on cold starts. The FOMOCO allows for high volume oil pumps. Not sure on the PSI but I do not believe many would be driving a GT 40 in the Winter..
Thank you for taking the time to make this comparison, very informative!
You're Welcome!
Thanks for the compliment👍,
I greatly appreciate it.😊
Very good analytics. First time I have seen such an in depth study. Thank you.
You're Welcome and Thank You!👍
Glad you like the video😊
First thing to remember is there are very limited number of oil filter manufacturers in the USA and for that matter world wide although China anybody can make or fake anything. I have been a auto/heavy duty truck mechanic for over three decades as well as wrenching on a variety of race cars from Top Fuel to weekend warriors at the strip and oval track cars from dirt track endurance class to NASCAR Xfinity class and most every thing in between as well as SCCA road racing to IMSA. So oil and oil filters I have some definite opinions on.
One thing that was not mentioned in the comparison of the two filters is looking the total volume of the filter media by multiplying the the thickness of the media by the area of the media. Additionally it has been my experience that thicker media that is exactly the same type of material as a thinner will filter more impurities/particulates out. Why does Ford recommend this filter my off the cuff SWAG is the thicker can, base plate, filter material indicates that the Ford GT engine has a higher pressure and volume oil pump and somewhere along the way in testing they burst the filter, blew it out, or had a filter material blow out this is further backed up by the crimped filter material seem rather than pleated and glued. I have witnessed all three with high performance engines and any of the three is never a good thing. My visual way to judge an oil filter is by the thickness of the housing and the number of mounting threads in the base plate. Let’s be honest you have to get down to pretty cheap oil filter for a cheap base gasket and drain back valve and why I hunt deals on the filters I use I don’t go bottom basement price shopping because I have seen what engines that have been run on 99 cent filters look like
Thanks for the multi-ply media idea. I think I'll start doing that in my videos.
Thanks Again👍
Thanks Gary! 🎉
👍
Nice video. However I would be mostly interested in the difference between the real filtering capability as well as oil flow obstruction and how well the filter ages.
Thank you!
I agree. Just because some of the metalwork of the FoMoCo filter is thicker it doesn't necessarily mean it is a better filter - just stronger - but the Motorcraft filter may be adequately strong for its intended duty.
A collaboration with Project Farm would be good, PF really tests things in detail
Good point
I'm based in the UK. I don't drive any more, but when I did I always used to do my own servicing at home. The cheapo equivalent outlet here is Halfords - it sells all the maintenance basics to a guaranteed high standard but at a fraction of the cost of the 'real' ones.
I imagine everybody watching this Channel does their own basic servicing at home rather than trust a so-called 'pro' garage (ha!), so they'll know that it's WAY more important to change oil filters frequently than to hold on to an old one for the maximum permitted time according to the service manual.
The high-priced filter is, of course, the right item for the job. I'm well aware that a high-performance sports car will often have specific components that ought not to be substituted for anything else, but if you can afford to run a Ferrari or whatever, you'll not be worrying about a few extra £££s on the service bill.
So I'm not talking about ultra-modern, highly-tuned cars, here, which can diagnose their own systems according to usage. I'm talking about ordinary people running normal cars. They can definitely benefit from cheaper replacement parts.
A 12-month oil-and-filter change is a terrible idea; a 6-month change is reasonable, and - if you thrash your car - a change every 3 months or more is better still.
The beauty of a cheap (but satisfactory) filter like the one in the video is you can change it 3 or 4 times as often as the book recommends and still not break the bank. It won't do any harm, and you'll save a huge amount of cash compared to swapping a more expensive one more frequently between services.
The money saved can be spent on getting a top quality oil, and/or put aside for the kind of annual 'technical' garage servicing (emissions/diagnostics, etc) that can't be done at home.
As long as you're not trying to save a few quid by home-servicing your £3,000,000 Bugatti, I think this is one case where 'buy cheap and you buy twice' is actually a pretty good idea.
Thanks for sharing👍
Purolator has been making Motorcraft filters for a long time. One thing I like about the Motorcrafts is the upper bypass valve, which I prefer. A bottom bypass valve can allow debris to get into the engine.
Except Purolator isn't Purolator anymore. Mann Hummel owns Purolator and Wix and they both are now using Mann Hummel designed filters.
@@bigdaddymak1439 Didja hear !??
Purolater changed their famous slogan to :
"Pure Oil now, Mann-Hummel later !!"
@@bigdaddymak1439 The filter design is still Purolator and easily recognized. It's true that M&H is now sole owner, but spin on filters still made in Fayetteville NC, Purolator factory. Previously they were co-owned By Mann and Bosch. Topic filters are made by Purolator to FoMoCo Motorcraft specs.
@@bigdaddymak1439 interesting….
All by pass valves will allow debri by once its been opened though. I see the benifit of a by pass valve near the exit being quicker to getting oil back due to location but I can't confirm which location is best.
As a Ford Senior Master Technician i see the differences between cheap oil filters and quality oil filters every day and the same goes for fuel and air filters as well. Personally i love it when people decide to use cheap filters since it makes me tons of money. The HG7Z-6731-A is exclusive for the Ford GT and it has to do with the very high oil pressures of the Ford GT. If you put a FL-500 on a Ford GT it will ballon and blow off and then you will have a very expensive engine replacement. The Ford GT also runs a dry sump oil system with 5W50 Castrol Edge Supercar full synthetic oil which is way different than your typical production vehicles with wet sump oil systems with engines running anything from 0W20, 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 or other specific weight oils.
Thanks for Sharing!👍
Just an FYI: Early in my Aerospace Engineering career, I was in charge of the Oil Filters on the F-16 Fighter Program. Kid Engineer and learned lots ... and secrets. My Company has rigid specs (more than Ford's GT 40 I assure you) and when we do that, it is required that both Parties participate in "Validation" of materials used/manufacturing processes (SOF/QUAL). Bottom line: pretty much all Oil Filters are the same and they ALL go to "bypass mode" after about 30 minutes; that is the only time it is actually "filtering" (nothing to do with "miles", only "hours"). So you can see that unless you have a specific reason (like if you are racing a GT 40 or flying at Mach speed at 40,000 feet and can't just "pull over" if your Oil Filter gasket/can springs a leak), there is NO reason to pay $75 for an Oil Filter. IMHO
The Heavier Build of the " Original " Filter does allude to a Quite High Running pressure in the GT Engine . Factories tend to Err on the SAFE side .
I was surprised how many piston aircraft don't even have an oil filter. My 1954 Bonanza didn't. Some brand new engines I understand don't and the engine is usually in the 40-70K range. I think my 1954 engine if it were made today new would be about $40K. Rebuilt I set aside $35K. I once ran it 80 hours without a change. That was too long. I made sure I change the oil ever 50 hours and it was fine.
I worked with a guy years ago that used to work for the petroleum institute. He said changing the oil wasn't as important as the oil filter. I always wondered if he was right. I think he said he changed the filter on time. The oil itself every 20K miles. Has to be fully synthetic.
@@johncunningham4820 True but anything above 65 psi it would be wise to shut her down and find the obstruction. As long as the "normal Filter" Can and Gasket hold, I would opt for the Motorcraft ... the gasket material/dimensions appear to be the same. I have a friend over here (French Riviera) that has one of the newer GT40's ... and if you can afford one here, the cost of a Filter doesn't really matter .... LOL.
@@robertthomas5906 Indeed they do not ... and why Oil Changes need to be based on "Hours" not miles; just like with Earth Moving Equipment. But there are also "Hydraulic Filters" on Aircraft as well ... same deal ... "Hours" only.
@@craigsowers8456 True and I agree with you but everyone still likes to be thinking they got a good deal.
Great teardown. I always bring an FL-500S with me to the oil change place when I get my F150's oil changed. My F150 Ecoboost has been trouble-free for 106k miles. I imagine the price premium for the FoMoCo filter is because they have an F150 price, and a Ford GT price. Might have to pester my local Ford house about a filter sometime.
Thank You!👍
A significant portion of the premium will be the significant changes everywhere in the filter - every piece of the FoMoCo filter is better quality, which means production changes that add expense.
@@KrikkitWarlord Lower production volume means greater production cost, too. Fewer filters to amortize the special tooling to create these filters.
I couldn't imagine ever owning a vehicle that would go trouble free horse 106k lol.remarkeable
Quit lying about being trouble free
I have used a number of makes of filter on my bike. I only ever use one oil and that is Silkoline synthetic. it is changed every 4000 miles and is still clean when changed. That is one factor to engine longevity. The other is NOT thrashing it when cold as 70% + wear comes from cold driving 🙂
ANY OIL changed every 4k miles will be clean. the key is changing the oil. not the brand.
Never changed my oil once and i have already 145k miles on my car. just change your filter .... you are wasting your money buying shit every 5k milee
Ty for the video and hard work you do, I just rebuilt my Ford cyclone 3.7, I was looking to see what the best filter is. I use to use ford racing filter but the prices are over $20 for a filter. This video really helped.
You're Welcome!
Glad you liked the video!
I am glad to see it’s not the same filter. If you spend more money you get better quality. Even tho I would never spend that much money on an oil filter and Iv never complained about the motorcraft filter.
FoMoCo has 9 round holes in base plate, Motorcraft has 8 oval ones. Thanks Dave.
Almost, 😊
Motorcraft has 7 oval holes and the Fomoco has 8 round holes 3:49
@@WhipCityWrencher Right. Typos.
You got to remember that the oil filter is only good for an oil change , not forever , save the money .The oil filters are designed based on oil weight , and micron filtering requirements .If you change your oil on a regular basis, any filter ( that is specified for your engine ) should work just fine.
That's why this engine/application demands this specific oil filter and not just one off the discount shelf.
Right now a Ford GT is selling on the market for $500,000 to $600,000. I'd like to mention that I was homeless as a teenager for a while and I'm 100% not trying to sound like a rich jerk here - this is practical advice.
As a cash buyer of new european exotic cars ordered from authorized dealers since 1996, I usually tell folks who ask what the 'buyer experience' is like:
1) if you need a loan to buy an exotic, you should probably work harder on building up your income and net worth first, and when you arrive, it is a cool feeling, especially when you were a homeless guy
2) if you buy an exotic and pay cash, you can afford to own one. In this case, your income and net worth mean you can afford to always let the dealer perform any/all maintenance, and to only use factory recommended parts
The dealer always is more expensive than 'Joe's foreign auto service' and the factory-recommended parts are always more expensive than those from O'Reilly etc.
My first car was a used Pontiac T1000 with 65,000 miles on it. I could not afford to pay the dealer service techs.
Later, after college, after a couple 'experiences,' I said 'no more auto repair shops' and have never regretted it. My two lessons:
- a 'Joe's Auto Repair' replaced the clutch in my used Fiero and dropped a bolt in the housing and it destroyed the clutch in about 100 miles and I had to sue them to get the clutch done at a Pontiac dealership
- a Speedy Oil Change broke something in my Toyota MR2 turbo and it had to be towed from the Speedy place to a Toyota dealer
I pay hundreds of dollars for each oil change for my exotics. Factory-trained mechanics do that work.
Point being, if you have an expensive vehicle, do not be a cheapskate with anything during your ownership
.
@@Greg_Chase Reminds me of the old story where the owner of a very expensive car was complaining to the dealer that the car did not want to start on cold mornings. The dealer replied, "If you can afford this car, you can afford to heat your garage." 😀
@@Greg_Chase It's nice to have money and be able to afford going to the dealer's "Factory-trained mechanics" But how many stories have you heard about the dealer shipping the car back to the customer because they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Then the customer has to take it to Joe and he fixes it!
@@Greg_Chase while I understand your sentiment, and about 90% agree with you, we also need to remember that we are all human and make mistakes.
But to the n'th degree, a majority of the Technicians that work on these types of vehicles are not just starting out. The older, more experienced guys do tend to get it right the first time. But that can also be said about many other independent shops, especially those that specialize in high-line vehicles, as compared to good ole' Joe.
God damn that was more information about oil filters then I ever knew I needed . Well done bro
Thank You
i used to work for Crossland filters, we made filters for motor craft, and crossland branded filters, they was identical in construction apart from the motor craft ones had motor craft formed in one side of the foam moulding. and oil filters where just diffrent praintings and packaging.
GMdoes something similar. They have the PF63E and the UPF63R filter. Same dimensions and thread but the UPF63R is for 2018 and up high feature V6 and the PF63E is for older high feature V6 not sure exactly what the difference is but the UPF63E is noticeably heavier. And I know the bulletin that says to use it states the PF63E filters were rupturing from the higher oil pressure on the newer engines leading to fires. A customer at our dealerships 2018 Acadia burnt to the ground on their way home from a jiffy lube oil change and I’m assuming that was the reason. (Although I don’t know) I do know that the PF63E is only like a $5 filter and the UPF63R is a $12 filter. You should open up both of those.
Here's a link, I open up a PF63E, and on May 13th, I open up a UPF63R.
ruclips.net/video/LOqQmhygZNM/видео.html&ab_channel=WhipCityWrencher
All I know is, if you have the money for a Ford GT, then you definitely have the money for a $77 oil filter. Good video!
I Agree!😊
Thank You!👍
The FL-500 also fits on GM vehicles which use the PF-48 filter. I used to run the FL-500 filter on my Chevy SS with the 6.2L LS3 engine. It was slightly larger than the PF-48 and better quality.
Thanks for Sharing👍
Looking at the difference it looks like the engine might run at much higher oil pressure, but that is only a guess. Personally, the Fomoco filter looks like it should sell for about twice the price of the Motorcraft. Ford is taking advantage of the owners of an expensive car.
Million things I should be doing right now. But here I am. Good vid, bud. Like the objective review.
Thank You!👍
I appreciate it.😊
The metal crimp and string meant the FoMoCo media was made and stored somewhere else instead of made and cut right into the fitting of the drum.
Why would they do that?
You know how to compare!!! Love your review. Thanks for sharing
Your Welcome! and
Thank You!
If you have ever had the 'pleasure' of having a thin wall oil filter can split (2 in a row) and gush oil over your drive way, you will appreciate a thick walled filter can. Yes, I know the good one is more expensive, but engine rebuilds are even more so.
Thanks for Sharing!
Paul is so right...Thin Wall oil filters are the worse, i had one split on me...i will pay extra for now on...
Never seen a normally priced name brand oil filtet "split" in my life... I live down thr street from the man who created the 1000 ci bigblock v8....
@@elonmust7470 it was an Auto Zone filter, man it caused me to have a bad day, it split at the border line at SanYsidro and San Diego, it was on a V6 Mustang, Luckily the Motor did not blow...
I know that the Fomoco filter to my European 2018 Mk4 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost is made by the Mann filter. I live in Norway/Europe.
Great video 😊👍
Thank You! and Hello from the USA.
Thanks for sharing and glad you liked the video.😊
@@WhipCityWrencher You're welcome 😊
3.5 315 HP V6…. I use the 500S in my ‘09 Taurus. Just did an oil change yesterday.
And I did note, the thickness or, lack of makes removing the old filter a pain. The thin walled body cup crushes.
Grab the filter one near the ends, not in the middle!
Preferably the top (open end), as the bottom can cause more torque transfer to the seal/threads/housing.
The only real difference is that one came from the Ford factory, so you pay far more.
In the late 1990s I needed a power window motor/drive unit for a 1980 Monte Carlo.
Dealer - $128
NAPA Auto - $56 (rebuilt)
Kragen Auto - $38 (rebuilt)
My choice?
Pick a Part junk yard - $16 (worked just like new)
From experience, I can tell you that engines we diagnosed with oiling system issues were cured in just minutes using the dealer supplied correct part number motorcraft filter, and motorcraft brand oil of the specified weight.
If it works as designed with the specified stuff?
That's good and correct service and practices.
Happy motoring, with your...engine.
I have a new F150 with the 3.5L twin turbo. The FoMoCo is a little better built but the cheaper Motorcraft meets all the warranty requirements so that is the one I will use. I believe the quality of the oil and oil changes per the engine algorithm is far more important than what this video showed as differences between oil filters.
The dark glue is plastisol, the white is epoxy. Both filters use phenolic resin impregnated paper. The difference in manufacturing labor cost between these two is negligible. The material cost difference is probably quite a bit because of purchase quantities. Overall, I would be surprised if there was even a five times difference.
Thanks for sharing
I can't see from what we learned from dissecting this filter, how Ford can justify the extra $75ish for the "better" filter. I was expecting more clear differences. Thanks for posting this video. Good video!
Thank You!😊
@@WhipCityWrencher You are welcome buddy! Well thought out video.
"Justify" is hardly ever a factor. People the value/cost stuff goes out the window if marketing is successful in getting you to buy into "costs more, must be better". There are certainly lots of unquestionable parts and pieces where the best costs more but opens that door to the ones where the price is high but the quality is not better.
@@jimmyaber5920 So true Jimmy. I can see the folks with the $100,000 vehicles dropping the $75 for the filter no question. Otherwise, I think the FL500S is a pretty good filter. Much better than lots of aftermarket cheapy filters for sure.
There’s gold in them FoMoCo filters. 😁
😊
Finally an American who uses a metric system! Thank you very much! :-)
Both filters are made by Purolator for Ford/Motorcraft. As Scott said, the FMC is a/the factory filter installed there, so technically it is OE. The Motorcraft is the Ford OEM OF. I don't know if the viewer paid $77, but I wouldn't. It likely costs so much because it's not readily available and/or intended for general purchase. As for the FL 500 "coming apart" while "cutting" the media off, that is not something would affect function. In other words, it's not a force that would be applied in real world OF use. Not a concern imho. The one pleat area on the FL500S a little wide but I expect it would fine in use. Ford (Purolator) makes what they call a Racing PP filter that can be purchased for less than $20 but I don't know if it fits the GT. At $77, if one didn't want to go with FL500S, I'd be looking for a much less expensive option. Thanks for video.
You're Welcome!
Thanks for the feedback👍
Yep, if the Ford Racing FL820 would fit, it would be a better option then the overpriced FoMoCo filter.
@@highrzr Thanks for the info. The Ford Racing PP filter is a quality piece. Good efficiency too.
Wrong, the oem fomoco are made by champion labs. Same manufacturer that makes supertech sold by Walmart. Only motorcraft aftermarket are made by Purolator.
@@KyrieEleisonMaranatha Nope, definitely not. Champ lost the Ford factory filter contract awhile ago. It's now M&H Wix or Purolator.
Motorcraft filter is very good, I used them when I worked for industrial and marine distributor. the price diff is cash grab so not necessary. Bottom line is change your oil at OEM intervals. Old days engines had by pass filter then change filter every second oil change. We use to have display on OEM oil filter and box store oil filters. Yes I agree on your test and comparison . Well done thanks
Thank You!
The GT engine has a high flow and pressure oil system hence the extra features on the filter for it. Extra threads to stop the pressure causing issues. The metal seam is because glued seams would come apart with the extra pressure and just a stronger casing for that pressure.
Never use a weak filter on a sports car. Engine too expense to risk sticking weak shit onto.
Not to call you guys idiots, but you both sound like idiots. In all of the performance engines I've had (multi thousand horsepower alcohol v8s & 1000+ horsepower turbo 4 cylinders), engines that push more oil pressure at a higher rpm than your gt500 engines will ever see; I have never seen an oil filter fail due to pressure......
Great review. For general service applications and OCIs Motorcraft is probably the best choice. If I were racing the GT professionally I would possibly go with the FoMoCo. Maybe.
Thank You, Shooter!👍
At that price differential, you could change oil & Motorcraft filter 3x for the price of one oil & FoMoCo filter change. So you could reduce your Motorcraft filter & oil change intervals to 1/3 of the FoMoCo filter interval and still come out even in cost. You'd always have cleaner oil, so less wear & tear, all other factors being equal.
You could , but I wonder if that would void your warranty?
@@WhipCityWrencher The warrantee can only be voided if they can show that what you did caused the problem that you're trying to get warrantee service for.
It appears that the biggest difference is in the heavy duty construction. If this engine runs at a higher oil pressure or has extreme vibration it could be a factor, otherwise it probably won't matter. If the media has a higher flow rate and the engine actually uses it, then that could be a problem, but it's very unlikely.
Definitely better to have more frequent oil and filter changes using the cheaper filter than overdue oile changes with the expensive filter.
@@stephenjones9153 If you let your oil changes become overdue because of the cost of a filter you probably don't own a Ford GT, and shouldn't.
Ever try a good tin snip around the seam can lip??
No, I have a good oil filter cutter. www.amazon.com/Speedway-Motors-Diameter-Features-Adjustable/dp/B01N156ODN/ref=asc_df_B01N156ODN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4448578597783746796&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001685&hvtargid=pla-890219125561&psc=1&mcid=cc32a1fbe4463be8a91efb520452bf57&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=96944448914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416671577205&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4448578597783746796&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001685&hvtargid=pla-890219125561&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKurBhD5ARIsALamXaG9DW2ihJNeZermHoOfFmN-CXPY2q_wfc3rX5cDMGRl74uEiT-E8uQaAu2wEALw_wcB
I suspect the Fomoco filter is specifically designed to to handle higher pressure differential. With the metal crimped screen and thicker metal pieces, even the string would help keep the media from expanding. I wonder what the filter rating is on that media.
Very difficult to find the micron rating for any automotive filters, air intake, cabin filters or oil filters.
Motorcraft is great producer parts!
I agree with you there, the OEM Motorcraft parts are best for my Ford.👍
Am more impressed with the cheap one, its quality is 95 percent of the high-end filter, makes me feel better knowing that our consumer cars get 95 percent of the quality of luxury car parts.
I change filters often I do not think I need a premium in that case. If I went longer between changes I may opt for the FOmoco. Nice vid.
Thank You
"Limited production" of the FoMoCo part would likely be one of the reasons it has such a high price tag, even though the components are very similar to the $4 one that likely moves 100s or 1000s of times more filters per year; I completely agree with others in the comments that it should be priced around $20-30.
This is the winning take. They probably made a run of a couple ten thousand to start with and the retooling costs aren't amortized like they are with millions of other filters. Why the limited run? Just for GT40s, because high pressure/high volume oiling from the dry sump system. Would really suck to lose your half-million dollar car on a track day because you were near redline a bit long and split the cheaper oil filter's case open, sprayed down the red-hot turbos, and burned it to the ground.
@@mfree80286 The oil pressure in the GT 40 is the same as any modern vehicle 40-60psi. It is NOT a high pressure system. You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.
When I worked at ford all the new cars had them filters. But we would install Motorcraft filters there after. My thought is they filter smaller particals then a Motorcraft filter and the factory uses these for engine break in since ford as well as most company's dont break in engines at the factory. All the fresh machining and burrs in an engine when it's fresh need to be cleaned up during break in and my guess is this is a factory filter to help with extra partials from break in. When I worked at dodge they did the same thing and chevy as well. Iv worked for all the big 3 lol
Thanks for sharing!👍
With the big price difference you could on a 10,000-mile oil change, you could change the filter every 1,000 miles in between oil changes. And still, be ahead of the game. I don't know what the oil change mileage recommendation is, but a fresh oil filter every month might keep the oil cleaner. The real contest is when the oil is changed at the recommended mileage having the used oil checked to see if one is any cleaner. Are you just wasting $75.00? That is the biggest question.
I would like to see a comparison of the used oil after the exact mileage, It all comes down to, are the filters doing the job it's paid to do. It would take more time than just cutting up a filter and it would have to be sent into a testing lab to be analyzed. But the bottom line is which one keeps the oil cleaner.
A person could compare an oil sample from the same motor after 2,500 miles. That would be a good yardstick.
If you were to cheapen out and use the lower cost and lower quality material filter on the engines that it was designed for, you will be buying a new engine. That doesn't seem like you're saving anything.
I agree with Mr Ray your not comparing apples to apples this is a high performance filter for a high performance car compared to a standard filter if i spent that much money on a car with a high performance motor I'd want the better filter too
Although the FoMoCo filter might be beefier, I can't justify the cost.....
For that $77, I can change my oil + Motomaster filter 3 times for the same cost.....
You can't really. Why? Because if you were to use the lower quality filter, it would be the last time you used it, because it would either blow out or even cave in under the pressure. Thus, your engine would run out of oil and ceize.
But go head and cheapen out on your $400k vehicle.
I used to work on high line Euro cars.
When customers would complain about filter costs, I would send them to a buddy down the street who was happy to put autozone parts on for them
In all fairness AutoZone sells good parts also, but maybe not for Euro Cars. Thanks for your feedback
The Mobil1 and Bosch filters (~$15) used to spec that they removed something like 98% of parictles 2 microns in size, versus cheap filters that filtered out a much lower percent of larger particles. Invisible to the eye, and maybe excessive for most engines...but a Ford GT. Yeah, I'd expect there's more than you'd see happening there.
Mobil filters are 99+% greater than 30 microns (writing on their box) and The Bosh Premium oil filters are 99% at 20 microns (Rockauto website).
Thanks for your feedback👍
Could you post a link to this data source please, I work with OEM’s and have been told the regulation dust they use for testing filtration doesn’t go down as small as 2 microns. This would be very interesting. TIA
@@ripsic5830 I got the data from reading the box, on a Bosch and Mobil1 filter. I'm certain my memory and the actual numbers won't be the same, but they'll be in the same ballpark.
Of course if an engine/turbo is built with tight specs, 2mu might matter. With looser specs, 10mu could be all an engine needs.
Full watch friend wow 7 k 👍🐕
Thanks, Cassy👍👍
The fomoco filter is the filter that comes from the assembly plant and a 3.5 L and a 5.0 coyote engine the main reason why I know that is because I’ve done so many oil changes when I worked at the Ford dealer
Thanks for sharing that information.👍
Yeah, but that doesn't add to the topic - i.e. which is better, AND which is worth your money - like others on here, they look identical, and really I'd be spending my money on better oil than oil filter based on this tear-down.
I did not see any comparison of the gasket that seals the filter to the motor. That would make a bigger difference than the thickness of the head of the filter.
3:49 although I didn't take them off and compare them I can tell you that they are pretty much the same and both will seal "no problem"
@@WhipCityWrencher My thought on comparison was more to the fact of how well they stayed attached to the filter.. That is the problem that people usually have with those gaskets is them coming off when they change the filter because they did not it did not oil it well enough before installation.
Heavier to prevent punctures during manufacturing and stronger glue because they may sit in oil a very long time on dealerships lots before sale and still have to hold up to milage by the customer without breaking down
The "heavier" cannisters are designed that way to PREVENT BURSTING under "cold oil" conditions and/or high-rpms, such as racing.
The glue was made stronger to SEAL the Media to the End Caps better -- which is it's only job.
Thanks Gary and thank you for the video clip
I wonder of operating oil pressure has anything to do with the differences in the construction? It certainly appears that the FoMoCo filter with the heavier components, metal filter seam, string wrap, etc. would be better suited for higher operating pressures at higher RPMs.
Yes, the heavy duty filter is meant for performance/track use. High volume, high pressure oil pump pushing high viscosity oil through a high rpm engine.
@@thoriated And the cheap oil filter can do it just as well as the expensive one. Do you actually have an idea of what the maximum oil pressure of the engine in the gt500 is? Do you have any relative ideas on what low, normal, & high oil pressures are in a vehicle? Do you have any idea on whether or not the oil filter actually sees that much pressure?
I’ve seen the FoMoCo filters come in on new Fords with original oil filter still but never knew the Motorcraft and FoMoCo filters were that different
It will not matter which filter is made of which grade metal or material. All it will matter is that which provide better performance.
Brother your video is awesome no doubt but you should make videos on performance with respect to price. Thanks.
I agree with you, for a gt40 of course the fotocopia but for normal cars motorcraft is ok!
When the fords started the 910s we used to get the FOMOCO until the motorcraft part came out. They were only about $7 vs $4
The 500s were the same way. The extreme Over charging is just ridiculous and obscene.
Both will maintain your warranty.
I would love to see an entire manufactures line up of all the same filters Wix (aka NAPA Gold), Purolator, Fram, K&N, etc...
The FoMoCo filter for the Ford GT seems to be stronger, probably for the high horse power and possible higher oil pressure engine.
It would be interesting to test the flow rates of the two filters. Also it worries me that the pleats are just glued together on the Motorcraft filter. If that joint should fail, the filter would be ineffective.
Oil pressure gets too high and it washes out the bearings.
I'll stick with Wix filters. While they are a bit more expensive, they're not $70.00 more expensive.
Great video though! A very thorough comparison
Thank You!😊
I appreciate it.👍
Without doing the calculations, it looks to me like the FOMOCO 8 round holes versus the Motorcraft 7 oval holes have similar total open areas, so flow should be almost identical between the two filters.
I kept reading the comments to see if anyone else noticed that. Even whip city didn't mention it. Other commenters talking about flow didn't get it right either. My congratulations Jim.
I got 350,000 Mi off of a Ford diesel. 7.3 powerstroke with Motorcraft filters. Oil change every 5000 miles. Sold it still running very strong.
Thanks for sharing👍
Actually both filters cost almost the same. The extra cost of the FoMoCo filter is for the box and bubble wrap.
Ha Ha
Stuff I didn’t know. I’ve used a lot of Motorcraft filters to no I’ll effects and regular and factory Hi Po street engines. I doubt I’ll ever own something like a GT, or maybe even one of the Shelby Mustangs, but this is good info to know.
Thank You.👍
Glad you liked the video.😊
Ford boss me recently posted a video of a few (4) FL 500 filters at his dealership having buggered up threads that would not thread onto the engines. I noticed then that there were very few threads in these filter bases. I personally prefer WIX
Yep, I saw that video.👍
Take your time when screwing on the filter and you won’t have any trouble with cross threading, ham fisted installers are normally the problem not the filter, and don’t over tighten them, that will strip the threads.
Kinda like the Ford 4.6 motors that had 4 thread spark plug holes..(they blow out and strip out)...How long they been making engines ? Der ?
These two filters will have been mass produced on automated production machinery.
Whilst the Ford base plate may be thicker, that has no effects on oil filtration quality.
The paper filter material will no doubt be produced by a manufacturer that supplies several companies making oil filters, so is likely to be virtually identical.
Motocraft have a long history and are not about to market filters which don't do a very good job, and in comparison I can find no discernable difference between these two products which may explain the exorbitant price of the OE part!
It is simply price gouging.
I used to run a motorcycle workshop and would frequently cut open filters, and at no time did I ever find an aftermarket filter that wasn't comparable to the OE product.
What my take away is, FOMOKO, thicker can, and baseplate. Thicker media, crimped media ends and stronger glue. For me that would justify $10 to $15 more than the Motorcraft. However I don't have a Ford GT and the cost of oil filter is irrelevant.
But you’re a Mopar so…
For most of us The best oil filter is one that is changed frequently. I’d don’t have enough discretionary income to purchase a Ford GT but even if I did I refuse to spend that amount of $ for something that most likely would not return the investment.
Is it possible the FoMoCo's filter media is made out of gold-pressed latinum? Or maybe printing on the can itself costs $70 more than having the information on a sticker?
😊
Looks like cellulose or at most a blend media, not synthetic. Whatever it is, not worth $77.
I'm wondering what the rules of acquisition are to get a FoMoCo filter?
Wtf is 'latinum'?
CHECK THE MOTOCRAFT STICKER. IT HAS FORD MOTOR CO.ON IT.
It would be quite embarrassing if you were rallying a GT, and blew a cheap filter out on the road somewhere. Other car guys, and the dealership would shake their heads. Dash images of the GT show 6200 rpm, 70 psi oil, 190 degree water, 160 degree oil, redline 7000.
Thanks for the review,$3.78 wins for me.
Your Welcome!😊
77 bucks is almost 4 times what we pay for filters that go on huge Cat and Volvo Dozers and stuff.
The FoMoCo type filter is a production filter. All new Ford vehicles have this type of filter (white with black lettering) according to application. Ford has decided to sell the production filter for the GT to keep the car original. All other applications use the Motorcraft filter after the first oil change. Most of the Motorctaft filters are produced by Purolator with some exceptions. However, a Purolator filter is different from a Motorcraft filter even though Purolator produces them. Motorcraft filters is proprietary engineering for Ford & Purolator can't copy them. Also, Ford does offer High performance oil filters through Ford racing & dealers could have them in stock.
How do I know this? I sell them at the dealer.
Yeah, I'll keep rolling with the Motorcraft and Wix filters. That FoMoCo is a little to rich for me, lol.
I used Hastings quite a bit, heavy trucks and equipment. I'm retired now and I like Napa Gold for my wifes' and mine daily drivers
Thanks for sharing!
cutting it open tells you very little about the inherent quality of the internal parts , especially the filter medium, where the differences might only be noticeable under a microscope or under long term testing
These hack jobs seem silly. I agree, you need to do in-depth analysis. What would people say if it showed how much better it filtered the oil, or that it lasted so much longer? We can't know other than obvious factors like the thicker can.
@@rudolphguarnacci197 I guess when the only thing you can do on a vehicle is change the oil, that makes the filter interesting. I'm sure you know how to fill your washer fluid too.
@@michaelgans8763
Live a long life, mike.
@@ButterfatFarms
Live a long life.
Yes lets look at the same presentation after they have both gone 3,000 miles and see which filter is dirtier and what particles were captured. If possible.
Thank you sir for your time and dedication to these videos, I learned something new today, thank you. Subscribing right now 👍
Awesome, Thank You!👍