IMPORTANT: 2003 Silverado 2500HD 8.1L engine. I have had this truck for 14 years. The oil pressure always went low at idle and increased with RPM's. I asked many mechanics and researched online to try and find out why with no explanation. Two years ago I got the deal/sale on five gallons of oil and a filter at Advanced Auto. I noticed that the oil pressure no longer dropped low at idle and wondered what changed. The filter in the deal is a Mobile One Filter and now that I see your video I believe the fewer holes in the Mobile One Filter and the harder to open valve is what fixed the problem. I believe the Mobile One Filter must allow for more consistent pressure in my engine. Thank you for putting my mind at rest by explaining this with your tear down and thanks to Mobile One for having the only filter that does this.
As a aviation technician, we are required to pull apart every oil filter whenever we do an oil change on an airplane. I can tell you by far Mobil1 is the best oil filter I've ever used in my 35yrs of driving. It's all metal, No Plastic. I've used K&N, Super tech, WIX and others. I would never touch a Fram filter ever again. With the flimsy inner structure and plastic.
I really don't think it makes much difference which filter you use as long as you change your oil and filter regularly. I honestly don't know of anyone that has had engine failure from a bad oil filter.
The hole on the K&N is for safety wire. Safety wire is used to prevent the oil filter from ever backing out. It is required in aviation and in many racing rulebooks.
@@bonehead8407 literally every one unless the vehicle has an oil filter relocation kit (aftermarket or factory), which the relocation kit mounts to the block in the same place the oil filter would go. It also has the same rubber seal ring that the oil filters have. The only exception are the drop-in style cartridge filters as they have no metal body nor threading, and are also a garbage design as the filter isn't contained at all and if anything happens it will distribute filter material through your engine.
The harder bypass on the Mobil1 filter makes sure your oil is filtered at higher pressures. Having the oil filtered is extremely vital for engine longevity.
I used to work in a factory where we made filters like these but for aircraft,tanks and submarines, those actual filter assembly’s you are holding are called “filter elements” and the steel caps are called “end caps” Most of the ones I worked with were aluminum rather than steel. I’m guessing the markings are used to identify if I process had been completed, like a treatment or curing. I worked with aircraft filters and I proceeded filters though chemicals and had to mark mine as such showing if my process was completed. It helps on the production floor to make sure everything is done correctly.
I changed the oil in my wife's 07 Yaris from first day bought new to last year when she traded her in. Used only Supertech Synthetic Oil and oil filter every 3500 miles. No issue. Traded her in with 237K on the dial after 16 years of ownership.
I've used mobil1 oil filters in my cars well over a decade now both in n/a and boosted applications both driven through the year. I live in Canada and the place I live the average winter temp is easily -20 to -25 with Temps dipping to the -50s regularly and I've never had an issue ever. I regularly cut my filters after I've removed them and never found any issues with using them and that's why I've stuck with them for so long and I trust it with my 25k engine build in my Stagea.
Thanks your comment was valuable to me; one can't always rely on RUclipsrs even though they mean well so I'll use mobile 1 on my Chevy Express 1500 V6 4.3 engine thanks experience is always key 🗝️
I have always used the cheapest oil and filters, changing both about every 7000 to 10,000 miles. I drive my cars until they rust out. I am in the NE where temps run from -20 to 90 degrees F. Have owned cars since 1972. 200,000+ miles on all of them. Never once had an engine issue. Hondas and Toyotas.
After working on diesels in the logging industry for 30 years I have seen where Wix performs much better in harsh conditions. We weigh the filters before install (full of oil) and when we pull them off. Wix has always had the biggest gain in weight. However, changing your oil on time and using a high quality oil is far more important than the filter.
I got a 2000 7.3 powerstroke that has 800,000 miles on it. I've always used best oil on my baby and treated her well. And never used nothing but fram oil filter.
I have to say the Mobil 1 oil used with the Mobil 1 filter is probably a very good match. Unlike the other filters using regular oil, the Mobil 1 flows quite well at very cold temperatures. It got down to -20 one night in Minneapolis where my wife worked. She had a twenty year old car using Mobil 1 and it was the only car in the lot that started.
@@NiNjaTurtLe697 At -20F regular 30 weight oil is like peanut butter. It doesn’t flow and impedes the starter motor from turning over the engine. Mobil 1 oil still flows at -20F.
@@anthonykeller5120 You should be using a multi weight oil in super cold climates (such as a 0-30w or 5-30w), even on older cars. Straight 30w in really cold climates causes severe engine wear on startup as it wont flow well until the engine heats up.
Over the weekend I saw that Mobile 1 oil would give a discount if yo bought a filter with the oil. When I got to the register, they charged me full price, when I asked why they said that Mobile 1 filters are not eligible to get a discount with Mobile 1 oil.
@@NiNjaTurtLe697 It doesn't have anything to do with oil. Only if you use cheap non synthetic oil. It get like corn syrup when it's cold. Where I live -20 is normal winter temperature and I never had any trouble to start my cars.
I’ve changed a shitload of Mitsubishi lash adjusters back in the 90’s because of aftermarket filters. None from those who used a factory filter. Pay the extra few bucks and get a proper factory filter.
You might want to measure the pressure it takes to open those valves, then cross reference it with operating oil pressures in the engine. pending that result we really can't say which is too stiff or too soft. You pressing down with your fingers aint exactly telling us much. You might also want to tell us how much filter media is in each filter, the amount of surface area overall would be a way to determine how much oil can be filtered at one time. It could also play a factor in the length of time the filter media can filter before clogging. Along with the filter media material, and how that media performs at operating temp. Things change at 200° ya know. Good luck man, good channel 👍
I used to work at a dealership and saw one that gout a oil change once a year and she had around 20000 km 12500 miles, it was a cartridge filter and we had to pick chunks out and that was a common thing some people just don't care (also still had the ac delco filter and the paint for the drain plug)
One item you haven’t covered, the surface area of the filter media. Very important to know, more filter media usually means more filter life. Great review, thanks.
That mobil 1 filter having the relief valve integrated into element clearly allowed the element to be taller than all the rest and also noticing the inside holes looking like they may cause the oil to swurl around the element. I'd say just on face value the mobil 1 wins hands down on them 2 factors alone.
@@t28mech Filters classify efficiency in micron. You might see it listed as Beta values if you look up filter specs. Mike D is correct in stating that Micron Rating is the way to classify filter performance quality. It is defined in the SAE and ISO test specifications for filters.
@@jimholesaw6597 I doubt the oil had anything to do w a broken rod. Hence the word DRAG in that sentence. Race car or care bikes break all the time. Its the nature of the beast. I'm thinking it was just a coincidence sir. Ive use mobil 1 in all our cars ( even the race car) filter and oil and nothing bad here.
I have seen presentations critical of the Mobil 1 filters. They cut them open and show a dirty, black build up of muck. This implies poor oil changing habits and possibly filters not being replaced with each oil change. Internally, before use, they are built well. The Mobil 1 filter is fine. Some of the others look poorly constructed internally. Why would Mobil oil company build a crummy, cheap oil filter? For what reason?
Thanks for the nice review. I would recommend, when comparing oil filters, one to the other, you should hold both items you are comparing. In the video you discussed the internal materials of the Super Tech filter being very much like the K&N filter. But, in your right hand you were holding the frame synthetic filter. It was a bit difficult to follow what you were comparing as you were not discussing the frame synthetic filter, which you were holding, at the time.
I worked for Champion Laboratory in Albion Illinois for 34 years. It's funny watching these videos. We made every one of these filters on the same assembly line some time or another. Get done making one filter and change the line over to make and different brand filter. The cheap filter will do the same thing the high cost filter will do.
@@sandyshoremann7524 Champ Lab lost Ford contract year's ago. At one time we had a spin-on oil filter assembly line that's all they made was FL-1A . It was a tall filter and we made a short filter 300 I thank. Ford at one time was Champs berad and butter.
@@chrismurphy5204 Thanks Chris. My 2011 ford ranger filter was white painted FoMoCo factory filter was Not a Motorcraft or Pur-O-Lator, I looked like a champ but it could have been Baldwin O.E. But it sure look like Champion Labs. Now I hear Champ and Fram are split up again. Those Vegas wedding don't last!
@@sandyshoremann7524 your right about Champ and Fram breaking up. That happened a few years back. But now there back together. Some guy bought Champ and Fram. I think the guy who bought them has a company named Tricon. They make wiper blades and other automotive parts. So what's funny is Champ will make Fram and Fram will make Champs filters. It depends on who is behind on there orders. Lol.
With your background, what make of oil filter do YOU use and recommend to the average Backyard Mechanic so they can get the best coverage and engine longevity? I've never heard of the Champ brand you mentioned.
The hole in the nut on top of the K&N is for Motorsport and/or aviation use. It’s not to keep it from falling onto the ground if it comes off though. You’re supposed to use a wire twisting tool to put tension on it in the clockwise direction. This keeps it from coming loose in high heat or altitude.
Yeah when I take my Honda 2012 Accord off traction control so I can get off the ground and take a good ol’ flight above the Pacific Ocean , these k&n filters never came loose. I’ve had issues with the rest. Almost got taken out by a shark when I lost oil pressure with that orange can of death oil filter. Never again.
The hole on the K&N filter is for safety wiring it in place to prevent it from unscrewing while in use. Safety wiring fasteners is a common practice in airplanes. Also used on 2 pc brake rotors. Wiring a filter in place is normally done on race cars to prevent the filter from backing off during high rpm engine vibration.
@@jimjones8428 actually American made name brand. The first safety wire I bought was from J.C. Whitney about 30 years ago. They need to bring back printed catalog. 😕
Good video Nate. In the future the next time you do a comparison video it might help if you use a comparison chart towards the end listing all the features side by side of each product . It helps you and the viewer to make a better determination of which is the better product.
I’m 74 years old, am still doing my own oil changes every 5000 miles. I’ve used all these filters .... cheapest to most expensive. Have never had an engine or filter problem.
I did once, using amsoil signature oil and filter. Sent a oil sample to Blackstone and the report said oil look the same as oil wich had only 5k 2010 rx450h 55k miles then 165k miles now, no issues. Went back to mobile 1 just because easy to find.
20k on oil, i would'nt do. 20k on a good overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra i do since day 1 on my Civic Si.. 271k miles later it still runs like a charm.
@@semiauto3148 i meant an overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra. I cut open mine once in a while after 2 OCI and they always look good. No collapsed media because of the steel wire mesh that keeps the pleats nice and that bypass valve always looks fine. When you have them at a discount price, they are a great filter.
i was in europe in 2011 i rented a toyota diesel yaris and down there they change oil after about 25000 kil.i checked oil before start up man that oil was black. i panicked guy tells me you north americans change oil to often.
@@TheCarpenterUnion I use the same here in MN. I get my oil tested every oil change and with 130K on my 3.5 ecoboost and I am still beating the averages.
Honestly I love using the Mobile 1 filter paired with Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend oil. This setup has never gave me any issues in any of my vehicles, but everyone has their own ideal setup that works for them.
In an ideal situation you never want the bypass to open.....because (like the name suggests) the oil is now bypassing the filter and any material stored loose enough in filter can potentially flow through engine. Causing damage quickly. Alot of race engines specifically use a filter without a bypass valve for that reason.
If you have debris in your oil that needs filtered- you already have issues. A cold bypass. Only open for a short short time frame. The oil should be filtered already from its last use
Having a filter is better than not having one. I would be willing to bet that an engine wouldn't fail if you rigged it to use no filter at all. This should be the "Control" test rig, but no one does it to see real engine wear or the results of any filter.
The bypass valve is not designed for Cold temperature, it is designed to supply oil to engine bearing in case of a clogged oil filter, exactly as the name suggests to bypass the valve when the pressure exceed a specific value.
What most dont realize is during the restriction of flow through the cartridge the cartridge media moves up and down inside the case and that opens and closes the bypass and when the filter canister bypasses the oil isnt being filtered at all so everything bad being picked up by the pump goes directly into the oil passages and through the bearings...
@@scorpioassmodeusgtx1811 Whether the oil is synthetic or not is of no concern about cold oil. That's all covered under the API specs. A 10W synthetic has the same viscosity and a non-synthetic 10W
Cut the metal caps off the filter pleats, stretch out the filter media and measure the flattened out length. The longer the media the more filtration capacity. Also, count the number of pleats and also shine a light through the media (unused of course) and see if some let more light through than others. All of those will give you clues about the quality of the filter media.
The spider-valve on the Mobil-1 is actually quite effective. They are more consistent in manufacturing and are typically rated for the same/similar flow versus restriction as the button-valve types on the other filters... most of the time. It all depends on the application requirements. As for the similarity in the K&N and Supertech, they are likely both made at the same factory and rebranded. The main difference between the two is the media. K&N has this whole deal with Low Restriction filters across the board (Air and Liquid). They don't filter as well, but they let air and oil through more easily... kinda. If you change your filter at regular intervals, the K&N doesn't really help as your filter won't plug enough to cause issues in less than 5,000 miles. They do however make a relatively nice quality product, so I won't harp on them for that.
K&N makes their own filters in CA. I have never heard of K&N making anything other than K&N branded filters from any other source, so I'll say "no" regarding K&N making super tech Walmart filters. I believe you know this already.
I set up my own display of cut filters when I managed an Advance Auto Parts store. Your right with your results. Great job. I personally run nothing but Mobil 1. Thanks for sharing this with the public.
great video - thanks for the interesting research. i’ve used the cheap supertech oil & oil filters on my previous 2 cars with great results: 2002 rav4 i traded in with 198,000 miles no problems, and a 2010 civic with 218,000 miles no problems, no burning, nothing at all. oil changed at 5,000 miles (give or take)
I’ve been using the frame filters for 40 years and I have never had one issue with oil or engine problems most of my engines have reached and exceeded 200,000 miles
@@CarAudioObsessions I always kind of figured that no reputable oil manufacturer or filter manufacturer wanted to be proven to be the company which produced crap products that killed engines. In theory, the only solids that should be in the filter media are wear products and other substances actually produced from running the engine...bearing material, carbon, etc. Assuming good oil pressure/circulation, proper cooling, proper mixture, etc., these should be minimal. It's a given that any air entering the engine should have gone through the air filter...no air leaks from bad air filter housing gaskets, etc. I frequently see people just checking the oil, pulling the fill cap, dumping a quart in, and driving off. Personally, the dipstick handle and top of tube get hit with brake cleaner and a rag before i pull the stick, the fill cap and area around it get the same treatment before removing the cap, as does the funnel. If it has been running around in the trunk for a while, I'll hit the top of the oil bottle as well. These are habits picked up from my dad, an Owner/Operator. It's amazing how anal about things one can be when your entire income rests on that Kenworth being on the road rather than in the shop.
This seriously was so in depth and great! Thanks souch for taking the time and money to do this. The Mobil 1 looks like the best constructed. Not sure on the release valve with it, but everything else is definitely better. I'm surprised to see that Super Tech have almost literally the same build as the K&N. It's insane.
I've seen other videos here on RUclips that deconstruct the SuperTech filter vs. a name brand (I think it was Fram) and the ST was the better filter by a wide margin.
The number of inlet holes is irrelevant - just a design decision made by an engineer taking into account several factors. Under running oil pressure, the entire filter is filled with oil. It's the anti-drain back valve that matters, which these all have. And of course the filter media is vital, as well as not running 50,000 miles before forgetting to change your oil.
@learn2 farm the band type filter wrenches can be tightened by pushing them in the clockwise direction to take to any slack, so side obstructions shouldn't be a problem as long as you can get them on in the first place.
The hole in the bottom on the K&N filter is there so you can safty wire it. This prevents the filter from spinning off. It may move enough to leak, but not enough to dump all your oil in a minute, thus destroying you engine.
First of I want to say that I really do appreciate the time and effort put into this video. I am not knocking it by any means. I just wanted to say that there are other videos, one I watched in particular a few years ago that dissected oil filters. The guy pulled the filter element apart and did other tests. In the video he had more brands of filters. The fram had rust inside. He tried with another fram same thing. By the end of the video I was sold on Wix filters or Napa Gold filters since it was apparent that Napa Gold filters are made by WIX. Again, I mean no disrespect to you or the video. I did enjoy watching it.
Super Tech oil filters are made in the 🇺🇸 been using them for over 12 years on my cars without any problems i change my oil with full synthetic every 4000 miles and oil filter as well!
@@mihy26 might be true but my engine is clean and stays lubricated with cleaner oil year around. I get either Valvoline or Castrol full synthetic 5 qt container at Walmart for a low price can't beat having clean oil yearly on yr car. Engines cost thousands oil is cheap!
Doroteo Garcia, how long do you keep a car and how many odometer miles before trading off? Some of those really cheap filters doesn’t do a very good job of filtering the oil. A good indicator of how good of a job your filter is doing is the color. If the color turns black before it’s time to change oil, your filter has ‘gone to the other side.’ If you get some off your dip stick between your thumb and index, (what I call my trigger finger lol) and rub it between them. If it feel slightly gritty, then you should get a higher quality filter. The filter is literally the key to the life of your engine. Some people like to trade in every couple of years or so, but I tend to get attached to one especially if I like it real well and I’ll keep it for a long time. If one turns out to be about half a lemon, then that sucker is gone gone. I bought my Dodge 1999 2500 with a V-10 4X4 and 5 speed stick new and I still have it. It’s been a sweet truck. Love that horse power torque. Still doesn’t burn a drop of oil because I’ve kept Conoco 10W30 oil in it with the highest grade Wix filter I could find and changed oil & filter every 2000 miles, until I couldn’t get Conoco brand anymore, (life in a small town) so I began using full synthetic 10W30 and Wix filter.
@@larryray3178 I have a 2009 Mazda 6 which i bought new in October 2008 it now has 178,000 still going strong i get either Super tech 2000 oil filter or use Bosch or Hasting oil filter. I also have a 2016 Mazda 6 which i bought new in June 2015 it now has 100,000 miles still runs like a champ using same oil filters as my other car. Filter is not black but light medium brown during my 4000 miles interval oil change.
If I recall on another filter teardown, the Fram Orange vs Tough Guard (silver) is the amount of filter medium. If you take the medium out and measure it there's usually some amount more, which allows the filter to capture a larger quantity of particulate than the lesser. I've never had issues with the silver FRAM filters, but I change religiously at 3000 miles. If I wanted to push it to 5k or 10k (absurd IMO) I'd certainly use a top shelf filter.
My dad has used the "orange can of death" for at least 25 years and he has never had a problem. But like you said oil gets changed at 3000 miles. So I wonder if it matters much when you are changing that often.
A long time ago- I worked at a factory, that made home care products. This was way before Lowes, Home Depot, or WalMart. Most things were still made in USA. We would make a product, then it got labeled. There were several labels- True Value, Craftsman, ACE Hardware, etc. The product got it's label, then boxed up. All the same. The same happens nowadays, but it's even worse; since there are no Copyright laws in China, Viet Nam, Malaysia- many manufacturers simply mimic each other, maybe changing one slight thing. A warning- since this COVID-19 many have noticed a decline in the already poor quality of some overseas produced products. This is mainly due to new hires, not learning their job, lack of proper training, longer shifts. In the world of manufacturing and assembly- everything rolls downhill. Many factories outsource parts, and all a company may do is simple assembly. There's probably 3 or 4 companies actually assembling oil filters, 3-4 producing parts, +10 Name Brands.
When I sold them and before that just delivered them (back in the 90's), Filters made in the USA came from 4 places. Fram, Purolator, Wix, and Champion Labs. Mobil, Group 7, Mopar (for a time), and (for a time) Quaker State, Service Pro, Atlas (for a while), and some other filters were made by Purolator, and the only big differences were the amount of paper in the folds, Purolator branded ones had more by a few inches. Wix only made filters for NAPA (Gold only) , Big engines (iirc Douglas and other large diesel/hydralic etc) and themselves at the time, and they were okay, but over-priced for cars. Fram made Penzoil, and For a time Quaker State, the only difference was the paint, and a Penzoil being $1.25/pr for the same filter Fram was then charging $4 for, and neither was worth the price of the Pennzoil, then again I though at free they were not worth the price. Champion Labs made AC Delco, Tech2000, some Bosch, Mopar for a time, Warner, STP, and others, and are easy to spot as they look just like the Tech does here. All were the same thing, often the same AC Delco blue, and were fine for normal use. The best looking US filter was Motorcraft. All 4 made filters for Ford, and All Motorcraft filters were/are exactly alike. So a Filter made for Ford's 302 V8 from any of the 4 was always the same paper, number of folds, valves cans, etc, not just a Purolator painted white and red. I caught out the Autozone salesman when he pulled the "Motorcraft filters come out of the same factory as Our store brand" (was it Duetze or something at that time?) and I told him and the customer that it was true though more likely it was from Purolator (who made the majority of Ford's filters then), and whether or not it was them, Puro, Wix or Fram, all were different than the Motorcraft. Then I said he would be better off saying his were the same as AC Delco, because they were and cutting one open would prove it.
Wow the similarities between super tech and K&N are amazing. This why people should not trust too much on brands, sometimes there are only famous names on a package with the same cheap product.
Being manufactured by the same company is meaningless, the filter media spec is different for different filters, I can almost guarantee you the super tech is using lower efficiency, lower glass fiber content media that has a lower holding capacity. But there's so much misinformation going on here, filters can't easily be reviewed by eye balls, they have a test for filters the Iso 4548-12 test, that's what matters and the Fram Ultra is top of the charts on efficiency and holding capacity, so far above the rest of the field usually because they are using two layers of full microglass media. Fram ultras typically exceed 99.5% efficiency at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns.
A lot of times things are made in the same factory from the same parts, because it costs more to have different internal parts. Super Tech is walmart brand so they aren't paying for any advertising. Generally they are the best for for the money. I worked at an appliance manufacturer. Marketing wanted a cheap freezer to advertise a low ball price on and then get you in the store and sell you something more expensive. We actually found it cheaper to take the nice chrome handle and paint it an ugly flat brown instead of making a completely different cheap handle for the cheap model. So the fact was the cheap ugly freezer cost more to make than the nicer, higher priced one.
Super Tech is a Walmart brand. There's no consistence when it comes to their product as they are typicaly made by a lowest bidder. The same Super Tech filter can be made by two completaly different manufacturers.
They used to be better. It's a pretty common practice to bring out a great product then rest on that reputation and offer most high priced budget options. Noticed the same with Royal Purple when they had only 2 oils available the independent tests showed them wiping the floor with every . But everything brought out since is lucky to compete with most of the common brands.
I thought pushing on things with a pair of gloves was a scientific way of measuring filtration as well as weight required to move oil through the system. I have an 08 carolla, and I've used all of those filters with the exception of the super tech. The car is still running as good as the day I started driving it.
Thank you for posting this . Very good video this is. I've never seen what's inside during 25 years of mechanic career so this is something to me. Job well done ! 👍
My 2011 Prius has over 330,000 miles and has never had any repairs! I use some great car care software called Automotive Wolf to monitor the maintenance schedule and I only use OEM oil and filters from Toyota. I change the oil every 10K miles with full synthetic as recommended in my owner's manual.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ even if you have cheap cars you shouldn't let them go that long without an oil change. The parts only cost you about 30 bucks, and you could do it yourself for free in 15 min
I use a Mobil 1 filter in GM truck. I use a Honda OEM filter in Civic. I use a Toyota OEM filter in Camry. For oil I use the appropriate weight of Mobil 1 in all three. Oil changed about once a year on all three. No problems here. BTW, been changing my own for 30 years.
Maybe people that work at Champ are not allowed to comment but many brands of filters come off of their line in Albion Illinois. They may have different filter media but same line with different paint jobs. Personally I ran Fram for 40 years. Ran v8 engines from 150k to 250k miles. Used trucks in farming and the tree industry. Never had engine failure. Changed oil every 3k miles regardless of manufacturer recommendations. Being raised in a shop I was taught oil is the cheapest protection for an engine.
I can appreciate this video however, if the bypass valve is too easily opened then higher oil pressure could allow the oil to bypass under normal driving, negating the filtering effect of the filter. bypass valves should be hard to open by hand when considering the oil pressures in modern engines, typically no lower than 40psi. I love the comparisons though, but some of the information provided is very misleading.
@Tron Jockey you will have to spend $15 to $20 thousand on a replacement battery in 6-8 years, though... Not a deal breaker, but something to keep in mind.
@Tron Jockey personally I’d still rather keep up with maintenance and know I can fix it instead of having a dead battery and the only thing I can do is replace it. Plus maintenance on electric vehicles may be infrequent but when it happens you better be ready to sell a kidney.
I worked in a Purolator plant in the mid 60s. Oil and gas filters and air filters. I could go on forever the differences in construction and they were made for all major car manufactures, heavy equipment and garden equipment. They were all made to the customers spec. The papers were different in coatings and heat treatment. All hand assembled and boxed back then. Always wondered who got the dead rat that went in one box!🤔
I've been using Fram filters for Twenty-five years. I used the "orange can of death" for thirteen years on my old 1990 C1500. No issues ever. The only reason I traded that truck in was because I needed more seats when my family grew to four. Fram makes good filters.
i use them too1983.5.0 ford original motor never had a problem...don't use synthetic either... oil is cheap filters are too.. change your oil regularly!NP
This is a great review of which filter "looks" best inside. No comparison of which has the best filtration or durability. You don't even seem to realize the two Frams differ in the square inches of filter media.
Really want a good test , cut them apart after being used. You will see how they take being used. The "orange can of death" was by FAR the worst. They used to have cardboard tubes and the entire filter element had collapsed in several. Good video
Visual examination has absolutely NO relationship on the filtration efficacy, etc. The ONLY way to compare is to take samples over YOUR engine manufacturers recommendations with a LASER particle counter, pressure gages upstream and downstream of the filter ..... and develop what known as a "BETA" plot. The "BETA" plot is a geometric/graphical (mathematical) comparison 'FLOW RATE vs. removal rating (and total inservice life of the filter at the time the sample was taken.) In most all cases 'THE MOST IMPORTANT ISSUE WITH ENGINE OIL RECIRCULATION FILTERS is did you change out the filter at the engine manufacturers recommended time .... or less recommended time if the engine was used in severe service? There isnt much more than that for a 'consumer' without a vast array of scientific instrumentation to analyse when comparing various filters: does the filter do its advertised job or Not? Cosmetics, etc. have absolutely NO bearing on filter efficiency and filter in-service life. ENGINE Oil filters became 'settled science' shortly before World War-II. If you want the complete details, etc., lookup Oklahoma State University "(OSU) F2 filter 'test stand' "" .... and look for ASTM/SAE updates for the most up to date requirements. All that stated, you 'could' simply use compressed pubic hair as your filter material IF your really Know what you were doing and could PROVE that your 'arrangement' of the compressed pubic hair could reliably and **continually** removed 20µM sized particles from the oil while not blocking the oil flow through the entire oil & filter's recommended change out interval. Rx: Simply CHANGE THE FILTERS (AND OIL) ON A REGULAR BASIS; change them 'earlier' than recommended in dirty ambient conditions or if youre 'beating hell out of the engine'. "Brand really doesnt matter". ;-)
this is interesting to see working on automobiles everyday for a living. my biggest suggestion is just stay on top of changing your oil and no matter what anyone tells you or what is advertised. don't wait 10,000 or 20,000 miles to change your oil no matter what kind of oil/filter you have. its amazing what you see when you disassemble a engine that was "regularly maintained" not to mention the amounts of ethanol they put in our gas nowadays, its amazing how it turns the carbon buildup to a soft sticky sludge that clogs everything.
a few years ago I was in-charge of generator maintenance, I had the same natural gas generator turbo failure 3 years in a row, we finally inspected the turbo oil supply and found a piece of filter element lodged in the turbo orifice restricting the flow. I don't remember the brand used. no cheap filters for me now, its money well spent. Rich
I have been being laughed at because I change my oil every 3000 mi to 5000 mi Dependingon conditions. I have used supertech oil and filters and have almost 200k on a Ford Taurus, A TAURUS!
I have had 2 Toyotas, a 1984 Toyota 4x4 (22R engine) and a 2002 Highlander V6, both had over 280,000 miles when I recently sold both of them because of a move. I used the cheap Fram filter and Penzoil 10-30w and 5-30 oils in both. I would change the oil at 4,000 to 4,500 miles and neither burned a drop of oil. The importance is proper maintenance!
I have used Fram filters for 35 years on motorcycles, to 4 cylinders to v8s. Not once have I ever had an issue. This is putting well over 500K miles in total in cars. I put 350K miles on a Toyota corolla, Not once did I have an issue. Engine never leaked a drop of oil either. But it did use it when I sold the car, the rings were pretty used up. This video means nothing until he has multiple failures that cause engines to lock up.
@@vctrsone like the friend said above. The way it performs has a bigger difference that how long it is or how it looks. It wouldn't be fair to judge any filter based of on looks than actually putting the filter into service.
The hole in the nut on the K&N makes it easier on motorcycles for track day usage when you have to safety wire the filter in place. But I'm heard horror stories of the outer housing blowing off with the K&N filters. I've never experienced that myself when I've run the K&N filters, however for the bikes I went back to factory filters, which is typically made by Denso. On my cars, I've always ran Fram and never had any issues, but I change them every 3K and I don't push the engine that hard either.
Most of the Mobil 1 filters are made in US. They are also heavy. I have done analysis with my F150 and the oil filters do great. I love them. Also can get them cheap at Walmart. Win win. XP is good also
I used to work at crossland filters, we made filters for our own crossland filter boxes and Ford motorcraft filters, they were identical apart from some markings and the packaging.
The cold weather concern with the Mobil1 is a non issue as it's specifically designed to work with full synthetic oil, which doesn't thicken up in cold weather.
@learn2 farm your dad is a smart man and absolutely right about cold starts being most of engine wear, I to use about 20% synthetic lucas stabilizer with my oil changes.
@learn2 farm that's not how it works anymore. It's a bad idea to thicken the oil with Lucas goo in cold weather in modern engines. Modern engines have tight tolerances. So it's important that the oil is thin and can flow into tight spaces. There's no room for sticky goo in between the moving parts. The goo will starve the engine from oil flow. The engine will have to work harder so they will be more heat.
Good video. I was a K&N user for a long time for the simple fact you could put a socket with an extension on it to get it off. Now I just take mine to the dealer every 5K religiously for oil and rotation. It costs about the same as doin it myself. The interesting thing you showed was the kn and the super tech filters were identical. Just goes to show ya. Good info.
I've used the K&N for years, when he talked about the Hex to allow for the use of a special wrench I thought yeah a 1" socket is real special. That is a convenience when you have multiple vehicles because the 1" hex is standard across the whole K&N line.
@@senormcdoofus2231 how many quarts does your vehicle use? For example a 3.0l inline 6 from bmw uses ~7 quarts, 7@$10/quart plus filter cost ~$10, leaving about $10 for labor. Granted the shop/dealerships get these items a lot cheaper than normal folk. Now if you do it yourself you can get 2x5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 full synthetic for ~$45 from Walmart plus filter for about $10 so $55 or $90 but you have to get under the car. It's almost worth the $35 to not have to go to Walmart or get under the car...
Unless you can see them physically opening Mobil1 containers, there is no proof that they (shop people) are actually adding Mobil1 oil to my engine. This is the primary reason I will always do my own oil changes with the knowledge for a fact that Mobil1 oil was indeed added - by me, no mystery, no question, no trust issue.
@@alexayache8556 Getting under your car every now and then is a good idea because it allows you to inspect for things like leaks, torn boots, etc. While some people change their own oil only because it saves them money, most do it because they that know how cars work and how to fix them and aren't scared to turn a wrench or get a little oil under their fingernails.
Not sure how you can grade filters by purely looking at them? No pressure testing, no particle testing, ... Pure opinion and completely Non-scientific. This is providing no one with any real perspectives. I agree with the gentleman below. Buy what suits your needs. Just change your oil as recommended and you will have no issues.
In my entire life, I've never had an oil filter O-ring stick to the car/truck/boat/motorcycle/airplane... but it's good practice to look at the filter to make sure.
I never did until recently, 25+ years and one almost got me. Screwed the new filter on, fished the old one out of the drain pan. No o-ring, fish the pan with a screwdriver, no o-ring....pull the new filter, low and behold, o-rings!
I do a lot of oil changes and it's stayed on only a couple of times but I tend to over tighten mine quite a bit. I do check every time though to make sure it's not stuck on engine.
Did you know that filters are are manufactured by filter companies. Auto manufacturer's build vehicles. A filter can be built to an OEM's specifications paint it black and stamp Toyota, but its still manufactured by Denso. Filters are not classed the way " ported and polished heads verses stock Vortec". Thats the "splitting hairs" argument. There are not alot of filter manufacturer's. Basic technology is the same. Thats why many filters are identical on inside. ( like twins identical)
That would actually be a great idea for the Mustang GT350. The flat plane crank tends to create strange vibrations that end up working the filter loose, dropping oil pressure on the race track and killing the engine
I know that I'm late to this discussion, but you did a nice job. Regarding the bypass valve on the Mobil filter, the first time I saw one of these was many years ago on a Toyota OE filter. Interestingly, they use a completely different pleat structure, probably for a greater surface area. Regarding the difference between the 2 Fram filters, it appears that the cheaper one has a lesser number of pleats. This would result in a lesser surface area. If you haven't already done it, removing the filter element and unfolding it to determine total area might be enlightening. I use Wix. Cheers
I use k&n filters and never had a problem with the gasket or anything for that matter, also love the wrench off feature, makes it super easy to get off
@@seattlesix absolutely, on my old truck the only way to get to the oil filter was from the bottom so the only way to get it off was by hand and if ended up being too tight to get off it took me forever, the wrench off saved my ass more than once
As a mechanic, I love seeing those k&n filters because I know all I have to do is grab a big wrench, I think it’s a 1”nut, and you’re good to go. No messing with oil filter pliers which can be a pain if the filter is really tight. I don’t think I would spend the extra money just for this feature though.
I never changed oil @ 20k, I always change oil every 3k, sometimes 6k but it starts to change to a darker color. But I always used Mobil 1 and k&n filters. Never had an issue. Like your video👍
I have been using Mobil 1 for almost a year now and compared to the Frams I was using my oil stays much cleaner , longer , even tho I still change it on time , everytime , every 4,000 miles , synthetic oil 5-20 , and the oil has been much cleaner at the oil change . I have done every oil change on my pickup in 17 years and notice better mileage and performance using Mobil 1 products now with the switch . The " paper towel test every 2 weeks when I check the oil , even @ 3,000 miles in is still impressively clean at that time since my switch . So I reccommend Mobile 1 .
Always open the box 📦 since there’s a chance someone may’ve substituted a cheapie oil filter in place of the quality one. I always check for damage and the O ring and found an inferior one placed neatly in the box.
They do this at Walmart all the time. One time I bough an air filter. Got home and opened it, it was completely black! I check everything now before I leave the store.
Well, I've been using the Mobil1 oil filters on my 09 Ford Flex since 2012 with Royal purple oil, it's a 3.5L non ecoboost engine. I do regularly change the oil every 5K and have never had any engine issues with this set up. When you look down into the valve cover it's super clean, zero sludge, looks like it's a fresh engine, spark plugs burn the proper color and I run a K&N air filter. I live in central Canada so the temperature varies between plus 35C and -45C. Just my 2 cents.
@@emmanuellujan9078 all oils have some types of detergents though. Royal Purple has been good for this application is all. In my Big Block Ford 429cid. I need to see higher pressures for the engine performance because it's more of a race application, so for that the engine runs 20/50 wt. Non Synthetic . The seals are not for use with synthetics.
Appreciate the effort, it's nice to see the quality of the internals, maybe do a part 2 with Wix, Purolator, motorcraft, and any others that have been suggested in the comments. Thank you Hate.
The ONLY fair comparison is to analyze the inlet vs. output performance using a LASER particle counter + flow (rate) totalizer. A smart-ass filtration engineer could produce BETTER and more efficient filterability by carefully constructing a 'filter' using shredded Kotex material in a large sized tin can. Rx: Dont compare by 'beauty' and anal-retentivee perceptions of the unimportant .... the only thing that counts is 'the numbers'. There's no magic in engine recirculation oil filtration ... all the bugs were worked out into 'settled science' in the 1930s. ******** Simply change your oil and filter at the recommended time/mileage interval. If you own a Königgsegg or other $1MM 'exotic': 1. check with the EXACT engine requirement 2. Get your butler to handle the vehicle mainentance for you.
K&N and Mobil filters are almost impossible to get in the UK. My dad trained as a mechanic in his youth and swore by Fram. Until the late 80s. They went through a spell when you could open a new box to see a rusty filter. When i lived in the UK i always stuck to Wix. Now in Germany i use Mahle or Hengst filters.
@@AftermathXJ220 wix and fleetguard were the same when i checked about 4 years ago couldnt find a wix for my Cummins but fleetguard is who made the mopar filter that came on it. So wix ,fleetguard and mopar all the same for a 5.9 Cummins
I work for a motor oil production plant. We make the oils, we bottle it,we label it and we box it. Let me tell you. Mobile one synthetic oil come from the exact same tank as many of the much less expensive brands. I'm the guy that hooks the tank up to the filler the machine that fills the bottles. Now we also bottle Castrol edge. And Castrol makes the oil to their standard and ships the oil to us ready to bottle. Castrol doesn't trust anybody to make their oil. Which is a good thing. But mobile one that everybody think is some outstanding oil compared to other brands comes from the exact same tank. The filler will go from filling mobile one to a budget brand and the only things that change are the bottles,labels,and boxes. But the oil is exactly the same from the exact same bulk tank. Castrol edge might be the same but they make it theirself so I would know. Same with royal purple and amsoil. Oh and that 10$+ a quart BMW stuff yep same tank as mobile 1 and budget brands. Stay away from gas staion branded oil and Quaker state it actually is made to a lower quality mainly missing much of the detergents and will most like build up sludge much quicker. But do your self a favor when you go to do your oil change buy whatever name brand full synthetic is on sale that month. Because they are all the same.
Damn thanks for that because I have tried some of the different type oils. So pretty much it don't matter what type we use pretty much none of them is greater than the next?
No amsoil and rp both blend their own oil and send it in bulk to be filled into quarts or gallons. I meant they operate the same as Castrol edge. All of them blend their own oil and we just put it in bottles.
But basically the gas station brands and Quaker state are made to much lower standards. All the name brands are equal. And the high end high performance stuff is sent to the bottling companies per blended. So if your daily driver car is do for a change you should buy the brand that the auto parts store has on sale that month. Auto parts stores always has a name brand oil on sale and it changes every month. But if you have a high performance vehicle and you actually drive it like a high performance you might get some benefits from the high end stuff. But 99% of high performance vehicle owners will never push their motor hard and long enough to see any benefits from the high performance stuff.
Just throwing this out there. I learned a lot from working on locomotives. Engines these days hardly have an oil related failure. We have engines that run non stop through winter and we don’t change oil ever until something (usually water seal failure) contaminates the oil. Longest I have seen is 10 years between oil changes. Not synthetic either. I have a theory that the “health” of the oil is determined more by the heat it sees. Short trips and big motors that aren’t ever “worked” have sludge issues. My old cavalier I would change at 30,000 miles and new filter then too. When we retired it I took the engine apart to see if I screwed it up. Not one lick of sludge or wear lube oil failure. And that was cheap filters too. But I do like the video. It did explain something about the quality
I read a story years ago where a fleet of taxis in New York stopped changing oil in some of their cars. They went 100s of thousands of miles with only top ups as required. At the end of the service life (dictated more by cosmetics, transmission failures, rust, etc), engine teardowns showed no difference from those that had had regular oil changes. I also find it hard to believe that with all the advances in oil technologies and additives that the oil companies advertise and say how good their oil is, that we still change our oil every 5000 kms (3000 miles) as was done in the 1950s and 60s. Any Australians in here? A Canadian buddy of mine spent a couple months in Australia touring in a rented camper van. At 5000 kms, he took it in for an oil change. The mechanic asked why and was puzzled that the answer he got was that it was due at 5000kms. Does that ring true, my Down Under brothers of different mothers??
I put 70k on a pentastar 3.6 in a 2014 Dodge Charger without a oil change, it screwed that motor up bad. 60k thru 130k. Los Angeles. The oil pressure dropped to nothing, I did the change, the filter, cartridge type on top of the motor, had basically disintegrated, came out in pieces, the oil around the filter looked like a combination of licorice candy and wheel bearing grease. After that I'd go a couple thousand miles and the pressure would drop, I'd replace the filter and go another 2k.
I made champion filters for 5 years and yes they made alot of filters the same that just changed packaging, but also some had more pleats than others and an anti drain back valve whereas others had no anti drain back valve and less pleats, STP FILTERS had a double filter media that was thick double paper we called it kotex paper it sorta looked like it and all of champion made filters had a steel end cap and steel tube atleast at the plant I worked in, I was the pleater operator, I ran the pleated paper
Walmart's Suoer Tech products are pretty amazing. Their oil beats other major brands in testing, coming from a company in business since 1922. Their oil filters are soild and well made with quality. Great stuff.
If I am not mistaken, the synthetic Supertech oil is made by Valvoline, so I would assume all the Supertech oils are. Is all I use after finding that out.
Those Frams end caps are made of synthetic material . Those discoloration are the heat effective zone as they were resulted from impregnating of the adhesive.
Enjoyed your video! I use Wix and Baldwin filters on my older trucks and tractors, and OEM or Mobil 1 filters on my newer equipment that use synthetic oils. I use Rotella straight weight oils for older gas and diesel engines - Mobil 1 for the ones needing synthetics. My oldest 'runner' currently is a '49 Willys with a flathead 4. I can still buy a great Baldwin cartridge filter off-the-shelf for its bypass oil system.
Don’t have a old 4.0 Jeep by chance do you? If so what oil you run or would run. I run Rotella 10-30 currently but it’s the first time I’ve ran it. Having some lifter noise with it. Ugh
@@BradMillsOK I don't currently have any straight 6 gasoline engines. Have had them in 3 different Toyota Land Cruisers that I have owned, plus long ago in a '61 Ford Falcon. We do have a 4.2 diesel in a "FrankenJeep" truck my son drives - a Cherokee chassis with a J-truck cab and a 1930's Willys bed. His other Jeep is a '66 CJ6A with a little 225 V6. If you are sure your valve train is in good shape you might try switching to a good synthetic to try to calm the top-end rattle.
I been using fram for years. Never had a problem. Change your oil and filter regularly following your vehicles maintenance schedule. Overtime oil breaks down. It looses it's lubricating and cooling properties. And will even begin to turn to sludge if left too long. If you don't, you can destroy any engine regardless of the oil and filter brand.
The very next M1 filter I used started spraying engine oil all over the underside of my car through a seam in the case so I ended up going back to the ac delco pf64.
The feature on the k&n filter is for safety wire at a race track. Without it, you'll need to put a pipe clamp around the filter and safety wire the clamp. This reduces the chance of it backing out. This is also done on the drain plug, brake caliper bolts, etc.
In my bike I use a FLO reusable spin on filter. Instead of using paper to filter the oil it uses 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth. There is also a magnet in the filter to catch any metal particles in the oil. To clean it you remove it from the bike unscrew it apart, pull out the filter cartridge and spray everything with parts cleaner.
Yah the jumping around made my eyes spin. I think it's a really valuable comparison that would be an outstanding comparison with a systematic left- to- right flow, repeated in each category, and maybe a chart to sum it up at the end. Lose the gloves, everything is clean. Having said all that, thank you for an informative piece that will improve my own practice.
Passed 711,300 miles this week in the LLY Duramax changing oil every 10 to 11k Rotella oil and Fram HP4 filters. I don't cut them open but they seem to work just fine.
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I own a Fiat so there’s no need to change the oil filter or engine oil. The car will break down before that happens.
I'm still driving the Ford pickup by drove in here 47 years ago and now I can't buy conventional oil for it anymore!!!#!!!!
LMAO!
"You know what ford stands for, don't ya? It stands for Fix It Again Tony"
@@DAKODA65 and on top of all that it was made in America!
lol, I spit out my coffee. nice one.
I'm more amazed that the oil filter section of your Walmart is organized and that the filter finder computer hasn't been completely vandalized
lololol
All apart of living in a decent area
I agree!!!
I had never even seen one of those filter finder computers until this video! Really something neat.
Low minority area
IMPORTANT:
2003 Silverado 2500HD 8.1L engine. I have had this truck for 14 years. The oil pressure always went low at idle and increased with RPM's. I asked many mechanics and researched online to try and find out why with no explanation.
Two years ago I got the deal/sale on five gallons of oil and a filter at Advanced Auto. I noticed that the oil pressure no longer dropped low at idle and wondered what changed. The filter in the deal is a Mobile One Filter and now that I see your video I believe the fewer holes in the Mobile One Filter and the harder to open valve is what fixed the problem. I believe the Mobile One Filter must allow for more consistent pressure in my engine. Thank you for putting my mind at rest by explaining this with your tear down and thanks to Mobile One for having the only filter that does this.
As a aviation technician, we are required to pull apart every oil filter whenever we do an oil change on an airplane. I can tell you by far Mobil1 is the best oil filter I've ever used in my 35yrs of driving. It's all metal, No Plastic. I've used K&N, Super tech, WIX and others. I would never touch a Fram filter ever again. With the flimsy inner structure and plastic.
Same here. I change it every 3000 even though it protects for 20,000
Fram ultra-synthetic is the best.
Same , Mobile One always for my Chevys
I really don't think it makes much difference which filter you use as long as you change your oil and filter regularly.
I honestly don't know of anyone that has had engine failure from a bad oil filter.
@@noneyabusiness1161 I know of three engines that have been destroyed in the last three years due to fram filter failure
The hole on the K&N is for safety wire. Safety wire is used to prevent the oil filter from ever backing out. It is required in aviation and in many racing rulebooks.
Don't forget the safety wire plyers, I used them to fellow aviator lol
If you leave the old gasket on your car it's your fault because oil change 101 is to wipe clean the surface on the engine.
What modern cars oil filter mates directly on to a surface of the engine
I've also never in my life seen an oil filter gasket stick.
@@bonehead8407 literally every one unless the vehicle has an oil filter relocation kit (aftermarket or factory), which the relocation kit mounts to the block in the same place the oil filter would go. It also has the same rubber seal ring that the oil filters have. The only exception are the drop-in style cartridge filters as they have no metal body nor threading, and are also a garbage design as the filter isn't contained at all and if anything happens it will distribute filter material through your engine.
@@wesd3370 I've seen in multiple times
Happened to me ... oooh lots of oil when crank my engine 😂 .... then I learned .. then again there was no youtube 30 years ago
The harder bypass on the Mobil1 filter makes sure your oil is filtered at higher pressures. Having the oil filtered is extremely vital for engine longevity.
I used to work in a factory where we made filters like these but for aircraft,tanks and submarines, those actual filter assembly’s you are holding are called “filter elements” and the steel caps are called “end caps” Most of the ones I worked with were aluminum rather than steel. I’m guessing the markings are used to identify if I process had been completed, like a treatment or curing. I worked with aircraft filters and I proceeded filters though chemicals and had to mark mine as such showing if my process was completed. It helps on the production floor to make sure everything is done correctly.
I changed the oil in my wife's 07 Yaris from first day bought new to last year when she traded her in. Used only Supertech Synthetic Oil and oil filter every 3500 miles. No issue. Traded her in with 237K on the dial after 16 years of ownership.
Change the oil. No damn problem. Toyota is indestructible anyway.
I just switched to Kirkland oil. I'm sick of paying for the mobil 1 name. I use a quality filter and change it on time. No issues!!
What about the car?
@@andrewcox7179 We bumped to 10.50 a quart. It's really pissing off the guys with those 5.0 Ford f150s.
I’ve owned 2 Yaris’s
300,00 you could run vegetable oil in them and they would forever. Best economy hands down
I've used mobil1 oil filters in my cars well over a decade now both in n/a and boosted applications both driven through the year. I live in Canada and the place I live the average winter temp is easily -20 to -25 with Temps dipping to the -50s regularly and I've never had an issue ever. I regularly cut my filters after I've removed them and never found any issues with using them and that's why I've stuck with them for so long and I trust it with my 25k engine build in my Stagea.
Thanks your comment was valuable to me; one can't always rely on RUclipsrs even though they mean well so I'll use mobile 1 on my Chevy Express 1500 V6 4.3 engine thanks experience is always key 🗝️
Ah man, I love a good Stagea, it's the best of both worlds, essentially a GTR and wagon combination
I have always used the cheapest oil and filters, changing both about every 7000 to 10,000 miles. I drive my cars until they rust out. I am in the NE where temps run from -20 to 90 degrees F. Have owned cars since 1972. 200,000+ miles on all of them. Never once had an engine issue. Hondas and Toyotas.
Shouldn't torture the Stagea in the harsh Canadian winter.
As a fellow Canadian, I agree! It has been proven the Mobil 1 valve is better.
After working on diesels in the logging industry for 30 years I have seen where Wix performs much better in harsh conditions. We weigh the filters before install (full of oil) and when we pull them off. Wix has always had the biggest gain in weight. However, changing your oil on time and using a high quality oil is far more important than the filter.
I worked in engine rebuild shop for US Army, diesel and multi fuel, we used WIX.
@@FeWolf military uses cheapest not best.
@@ips7125 we used WIX and fram
@@ips7125 WIX is really good tho
I got a 2000 7.3 powerstroke that has 800,000 miles on it. I've always used best oil on my baby and treated her well. And never used nothing but fram oil filter.
I have to say the Mobil 1 oil used with the Mobil 1 filter is probably a very good match. Unlike the other filters using regular oil, the Mobil 1 flows quite well at very cold temperatures. It got down to -20 one night in Minneapolis where my wife worked. She had a twenty year old car using Mobil 1 and it was the only car in the lot that started.
What does oil have to do with a car starting?🙃
@@NiNjaTurtLe697 At -20F regular 30 weight oil is like peanut butter. It doesn’t flow and impedes the starter motor from turning over the engine. Mobil 1 oil still flows at -20F.
@@anthonykeller5120 You should be using a multi weight oil in super cold climates (such as a 0-30w or 5-30w), even on older cars. Straight 30w in really cold climates causes severe engine wear on startup as it wont flow well until the engine heats up.
Over the weekend I saw that Mobile 1 oil would give a discount if yo bought a filter with the oil. When I got to the register, they charged me full price, when I asked why they said that Mobile 1 filters are not eligible to get a discount with Mobile 1 oil.
@@NiNjaTurtLe697 It doesn't have anything to do with oil. Only if you use cheap non synthetic oil. It get like corn syrup when it's cold. Where I live -20 is normal winter temperature and I never had any trouble to start my cars.
It would be valuable to have compared against an OEM filter.
OEM is the same.
I’ve changed a shitload of Mitsubishi lash adjusters back in the 90’s because of aftermarket filters. None from those who used a factory filter. Pay the extra few bucks and get a proper factory filter.
@@blackhawk7r221 On that note, it's worth looking up who made the OEM filter. It's usually not the vehicle manufacturer.
Lets also not forget the allmighty AmsOil filter! does the premium price mean a premium product?
OE don't manufacture filters spark plugs or most electrical components
You might want to measure the pressure it takes to open those valves, then cross reference it with operating oil pressures in the engine. pending that result we really can't say which is too stiff or too soft. You pressing down with your fingers aint exactly telling us much.
You might also want to tell us how much filter media is in each filter, the amount of surface area overall would be a way to determine how much oil can be filtered at one time. It could also play a factor in the length of time the filter media can filter before clogging. Along with the filter media material, and how that media performs at operating temp. Things change at 200° ya know. Good luck man, good channel 👍
Who the hell in their right mind would drive 20,000 miles with out changing the oil filter.
AMSOIL users do it all the time...
I used to work at a dealership and saw one that gout a oil change once a year and she had around 20000 km 12500 miles, it was a cartridge filter and we had to pick chunks out and that was a common thing some people just don't care (also still had the ac delco filter and the paint for the drain plug)
20k in between intervals?--= foolishness
I change my oil every year!!!! I only drive my car about 100 - 120 miles per year!!!!
@@TheNuklearbandit I've gone 12500 on amsoil lab tests say still perfect
One item you haven’t covered, the surface area of the filter media. Very important to know, more filter media usually means more filter life.
Great review, thanks.
Yep I was waiting on a cut apart of the paper
What I seen in other videos was frame wasn’t half as much as the others once unfolded
That mobil 1 filter having the relief valve integrated into element clearly allowed the element to be taller than all the rest and also noticing the inside holes looking like they may cause the oil to swurl around the element. I'd say just on face value the mobil 1 wins hands down on them 2 factors alone.
Mobil has gone down hill. I been using penzoil and lifter tick went away that I had with mobil 1
Mobil burns now. I switched over to Eneos. Crazy different results. Looks like the day I bought it
@@PaleoVirus what does oil or filter have to do with what your car looks like,not being caddy I'm just wondering what you mean by that
@@ryanwills9757 I was referring to my oil performance. It drains clear instead of black.
@@PaleoVirus if your oil drains clear you aren’t driving your car.
Micron rating and size of the micron particles is also important in determining the dirt that gets through
Micron is the unit of measure. Micron is 1 millionth of a meter. ( 0.0000001) ( 1/1,000,000 meter)
Huge!!!!
@@t28mech Filters classify efficiency in micron. You might see it listed as Beta values if you look up filter specs. Mike D is correct in stating that Micron Rating is the way to classify filter performance quality. It is defined in the SAE and ISO test specifications for filters.
@@t28mech Just fyi, you got one too many zeros there. Micrometers (microns) are 1x10^-6 meters so 0.000001.
Smaller the microns the sooner filter goes into bypass. Both cold and hot/rpm runs.
Cleaner oil but needs to be changed regularly.
I’ve used Mobil 1 oil and filter for years in temps up to -40 degrees and have never had a problem.
I switched to mobil1 10-40 from rotella 10-30 for my drag bike. Broke a connecting rod as soon as i switched
@@jimholesaw6597 I doubt the oil had anything to do w a broken rod. Hence the word DRAG in that sentence. Race car or care bikes break all the time. Its the nature of the beast. I'm thinking it was just a coincidence sir. Ive use mobil 1 in all our cars ( even the race car) filter and oil and nothing bad here.
My filter exploded after watching this video
I have seen presentations critical of the Mobil 1 filters. They cut them open and show a dirty, black build up of muck. This implies poor oil changing habits and possibly filters not being replaced with each oil change. Internally, before use, they are built well. The Mobil 1 filter is fine. Some of the others look poorly constructed internally. Why would Mobil oil company build a crummy, cheap oil filter? For what reason?
@@jimholesaw6597 And you blame that on the oil how??
Thanks for the nice review. I would recommend, when comparing oil filters, one to the other, you should hold both items you are comparing. In the video you discussed the internal materials of the Super Tech filter being very much like the K&N filter. But, in your right hand you were holding the frame synthetic filter. It was a bit difficult to follow what you were comparing as you were not discussing the frame synthetic filter, which you were holding, at the time.
I was totally confused.
@@djffe8597 Me too
I worked for Champion Laboratory in Albion Illinois for 34 years. It's funny watching these videos. We made every one of these filters on the same assembly line some time or another. Get done making one filter and change the line over to make and different brand filter. The cheap filter will do the same thing the high cost filter will do.
i miss the good old Champ Labs filters, never an issue with them. Did Champ make the Ford factory FoMOCo filters installed on new engines? - Sandy
@@sandyshoremann7524 Champ Lab lost Ford contract year's ago. At one time we had a spin-on oil filter assembly line that's all they made was FL-1A . It was a tall filter and we made a short filter 300 I thank. Ford at one time was Champs berad and butter.
@@chrismurphy5204 Thanks Chris. My 2011 ford ranger filter was white painted FoMoCo factory filter was Not a Motorcraft or Pur-O-Lator, I looked like a champ but it could have been Baldwin O.E. But it sure look like Champion Labs. Now I hear Champ and Fram are split up again. Those Vegas wedding don't last!
@@sandyshoremann7524 your right about Champ and Fram breaking up. That happened a few years back. But now there back together. Some guy bought Champ and Fram. I think the guy who bought them has a company named Tricon. They make wiper blades and other automotive parts. So what's funny is Champ will make Fram and Fram will make Champs filters. It depends on who is behind on there orders. Lol.
With your background, what make of oil filter do YOU use and recommend to the average Backyard Mechanic so they can get the best coverage and engine longevity?
I've never heard of the Champ brand you mentioned.
The hole in the nut on top of the K&N is for Motorsport and/or aviation use.
It’s not to keep it from falling onto the ground if it comes off though. You’re supposed to use a wire twisting tool to put tension on it in the clockwise direction. This keeps it from coming loose in high heat or altitude.
Yeah when I take my Honda 2012 Accord off traction control so I can get off the ground and take a good ol’ flight above the Pacific Ocean , these k&n filters never came loose. I’ve had issues with the rest. Almost got taken out by a shark when I lost oil pressure with that orange can of death oil filter. Never again.
@@rockbottomliving bruh 😂😂😂😂😂
@@rockbottomliving 😂 You definitely should be using a different filter.
As I understand it’s high rpm and vibration like from solid motor mounts that will spin a filter off
@@orbitaljellyfish808 I didn’t think they used filters on race cars.😎
The hole on the K&N filter is for safety wiring it in place to prevent it from unscrewing while in use. Safety wiring fasteners is a common practice in airplanes. Also used on 2 pc brake rotors. Wiring a filter in place is normally done on race cars to prevent the filter from backing off during high rpm engine vibration.
I keep a roll of stainless steel safety wire in my toolbox, strong and has a multitude of uses.
Last I bought was at Harbor Freight.
@@jeffreydevoti7000 oh my God NO!! Not Harbor Freight safety wire!!! You're going to die!!!
It HAS to be SNAP-ON safety wire or it's no good.
🤣
@@jimjones8428 actually American made name brand.
The first safety wire I bought was from J.C. Whitney about 30 years ago. They need to bring back printed catalog. 😕
Just get your safety wire from aircraft spruce it is cheaper and held to higher aviation standards
Lockwire.... We used them allot in the navy...
Good video Nate. In the future the next time you do a comparison video it might help if you use a comparison chart towards the end listing all the features side by side of each product . It helps you and the viewer to make a better determination of which is the better product.
I agree I’m still kind of confused on which one’s are better! Otherwise it was a great video.
Or at least an excel spreadsheet
I’m 74 years old, am still doing my own oil changes every 5000 miles. I’ve used all these filters .... cheapest to most expensive. Have never had an engine or filter problem.
The key is doing it often. In the end of the day even the worst filter meets oems specs.
I would never go 20k on oil and oil filter Never. Never. Never ...
I did once, using amsoil signature oil and filter. Sent a oil sample to Blackstone and the report said oil look the same as oil wich had only 5k 2010 rx450h 55k miles then 165k miles now, no issues.
Went back to mobile 1 just because easy to find.
20k on oil, i would'nt do. 20k on a good overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra i do since day 1 on my Civic Si.. 271k miles later it still runs like a charm.
@@semiauto3148 i meant an overbuilt filter like the Fram Ultra. I cut open mine once in a while after 2 OCI and they always look good. No collapsed media because of the steel wire mesh that keeps the pleats nice and that bypass valve always looks fine. When you have them at a discount price, they are a great filter.
@@marc-oliviercabot3380 oh ok. I couldn’t make that word out. Sorry. I don’t use fram. I own a G M truck. So I use their brand filters
i was in europe in 2011 i rented a toyota diesel yaris and down there they change oil after about 25000 kil.i checked oil before start up man that oil was black. i panicked guy tells me you north americans change oil to often.
Been using Mobil 1 filters for 9 yrs up here in Alberta, winters as low as -35C, no issues
That you know of
@@TheCarpenterUnion real good assumption except for there's no good assumptions
I use mobile 1.. fram I do not touch. As per more "reliable " sources than this
@@TheCarpenterUnion
I use the same here in MN. I get my oil tested every oil change and with 130K on my 3.5 ecoboost and I am still beating the averages.
Thanks I use the same I feel it’s the best filter
Honestly I love using the Mobile 1 filter paired with Valvoline high mileage synthetic blend oil. This setup has never gave me any issues in any of my vehicles, but everyone has their own ideal setup that works for them.
Why don't you also use the Mobil 1 oil ?
I'll only use valvoline if Mobil 1 ran out at the stores
Pennzoil ultra platinum
In an ideal situation you never want the bypass to open.....because (like the name suggests) the oil is now bypassing the filter and any material stored loose enough in filter can potentially flow through engine. Causing damage quickly. Alot of race engines specifically use a filter without a bypass valve for that reason.
If you have debris in your oil that needs filtered- you already have issues. A cold bypass. Only open for a short short time frame. The oil should be filtered already from its last use
dirty oil is better than no oil, however.
I've been using the Grey Fram tough guard for the past 8 years and never had a problem. I can vouch for it.
I always used FRAM. Never had engine problems.
Having a filter is better than not having one. I would be willing to bet that an engine wouldn't fail if you rigged it to use no filter at all. This should be the "Control" test rig, but no one does it to see real engine wear or the results of any filter.
@@toddfandrey4242 we had a lot of people at our shop come in with destroyed engines because their fram filter came apart.
@@slingbart705 My Dad's airplane didn't have a filter and it lasted a very long time, it just had a oil screen.
The bypass valve is not designed for Cold temperature, it is designed to supply oil to engine bearing in case of a clogged oil filter, exactly as the name suggests to bypass the valve when the pressure exceed a specific value.
They can also bypass in cold temps when oil is thick causing too much resistance for the oil to pass through the filter media.
...for the last 30 years you have not put anything but fully synthetic oil to a Toyota engine on cars...no problems when you change it on time...
Most wide open throttle events also bypass the filter
What most dont realize is during the restriction of flow through the cartridge the cartridge media moves up and down inside the case and that opens and closes the bypass and when the filter canister bypasses the oil isnt being filtered at all so everything bad being picked up by the pump goes directly into the oil passages and through the bearings...
@@scorpioassmodeusgtx1811 Whether the oil is synthetic or not is of no concern about cold oil. That's all covered under the API specs. A 10W synthetic has the same viscosity and a non-synthetic 10W
Cut the metal caps off the filter pleats, stretch out the filter media and measure the flattened out length. The longer the media the more filtration capacity. Also, count the number of pleats and also shine a light through the media (unused of course) and see if some let more light through than others. All of those will give you clues about the quality of the filter media.
What a cool collection of suppressors
nah, trickflow fuel filters work the best!
@@1984-f7q Maglight and freezeplugs anyone? I enjoy mine...
Imma try all these ideas when I move to Wyoming.
Don't forget the potato!
Check out the new video ruclips.net/video/Qf2tGF63Gz8/видео.html
The spider-valve on the Mobil-1 is actually quite effective. They are more consistent in manufacturing and are typically rated for the same/similar flow versus restriction as the button-valve types on the other filters... most of the time. It all depends on the application requirements.
As for the similarity in the K&N and Supertech, they are likely both made at the same factory and rebranded. The main difference between the two is the media. K&N has this whole deal with Low Restriction filters across the board (Air and Liquid). They don't filter as well, but they let air and oil through more easily... kinda. If you change your filter at regular intervals, the K&N doesn't really help as your filter won't plug enough to cause issues in less than 5,000 miles. They do however make a relatively nice quality product, so I won't harp on them for that.
musicwv, We just can't trust the media nowadays.
K&N makes their own filters in CA. I have never heard of K&N making anything other than K&N branded filters from any other source, so I'll say "no" regarding K&N making super tech Walmart filters. I believe you know this already.
I set up my own display of cut filters when I managed an Advance Auto Parts store. Your right with your results. Great job. I personally run nothing but Mobil 1. Thanks for sharing this with the public.
You’re, not your.
@@mrbriancandoanything709 OH MY GOD , LOOK OUT , HERE COMES THE SPELLING POLICE !!!
Grammer police actually
great video - thanks for the interesting research. i’ve used the cheap supertech oil & oil filters on my previous 2 cars with great results: 2002 rav4 i traded in with 198,000 miles no problems, and a 2010 civic with 218,000 miles no problems, no burning, nothing at all. oil changed at 5,000 miles (give or take)
Thats because 1) you bought quality cars, and 2) the most important thing is consistent oil changes, not oil/filter quality.
I’ve been using the frame filters for 40 years and I have never had one issue with oil or engine problems most of my engines have reached and exceeded 200,000 miles
Same here. Just the basic orange fram filter. Many cars over 300k km.
@@CarAudioObsessions I always kind of figured that no reputable oil manufacturer or filter manufacturer wanted to be proven to be the company which produced crap products that killed engines.
In theory, the only solids that should be in the filter media are wear products and other substances actually produced from running the engine...bearing material, carbon, etc. Assuming good oil pressure/circulation, proper cooling, proper mixture, etc., these should be minimal. It's a given that any air entering the engine should have gone through the air filter...no air leaks from bad air filter housing gaskets, etc.
I frequently see people just checking the oil, pulling the fill cap, dumping a quart in, and driving off. Personally, the dipstick handle and top of tube get hit with brake cleaner and a rag before i pull the stick, the fill cap and area around it get the same treatment before removing the cap, as does the funnel. If it has been running around in the trunk for a while, I'll hit the top of the oil bottle as well.
These are habits picked up from my dad, an Owner/Operator. It's amazing how anal about things one can be when your entire income rests on that Kenworth being on the road rather than in the shop.
This seriously was so in depth and great! Thanks souch for taking the time and money to do this. The Mobil 1 looks like the best constructed. Not sure on the release valve with it, but everything else is definitely better. I'm surprised to see that Super Tech have almost literally the same build as the K&N. It's insane.
Super Tech and K&N filters are both made by the same company, Champion Labs.
I've seen other videos here on RUclips that deconstruct the SuperTech filter vs. a name brand (I think it was Fram) and the ST was the better filter by a wide margin.
The number of inlet holes is irrelevant - just a design decision made by an engineer taking into account several factors. Under running oil pressure, the entire filter is filled with oil. It's the anti-drain back valve that matters, which these all have. And of course the filter media is vital, as well as not running 50,000 miles before forgetting to change your oil.
@learn2 farm if there is gunk clogging the holes you have bigger issues than not making the holes big enough.
@learn2 farm the band type filter wrenches can be tightened by pushing them in the clockwise direction to take to any slack, so side obstructions shouldn't be a problem as long as you can get them on in the first place.
The hole in the bottom on the K&N filter is there so you can safty wire it. This prevents the filter from spinning off. It may move enough to leak, but not enough to dump all your oil in a minute, thus destroying you engine.
What is that common sense on display.
The only issue is the sq/in totals from each filters holes. # of holes doesn’t determine anything. This guy really doesn’t understand physics.
First of I want to say that I really do appreciate the time and effort put into this video. I am not knocking it by any means.
I just wanted to say that there are other videos, one I watched in particular a few years ago that dissected oil filters.
The guy pulled the filter element apart and did other tests.
In the video he had more brands of filters.
The fram had rust inside. He tried with another fram same thing.
By the end of the video I was sold on Wix filters or Napa Gold filters since it was apparent that Napa Gold filters are made by WIX.
Again, I mean no disrespect to you or the video. I did enjoy watching it.
I have been using Fram filters, for years, never had a problem with them!
Mobil 1 oil and filter hands down no questions asked. I change my oil every 4-5k and live in a very cold climate, no issues.
Super Tech oil filters are made in the 🇺🇸 been using them for over 12 years on my cars without any problems i change my oil with full synthetic every 4000 miles and oil filter as well!
Dang straight. $13 for oil and $4 for the filter. Change often and your ride should live almost forever.
IF you are changing out your synthetic oil at 4000 miles - that is way too frequent - your throwing your money away.
@@mihy26 might be true but my engine is clean and stays lubricated with cleaner oil year around. I get either Valvoline or Castrol full synthetic 5 qt container at Walmart for a low price can't beat having clean oil yearly on yr car. Engines cost thousands oil is cheap!
Doroteo Garcia, how long do you keep a car and how many odometer miles before trading off? Some of those really cheap filters doesn’t do a very good job of filtering the oil. A good indicator of how good of a job your filter is doing is the color. If the color turns black before it’s time to change oil, your filter has ‘gone to the other side.’ If you get some off your dip stick between your thumb and index, (what I call my trigger finger lol) and rub it between them. If it feel slightly gritty, then you should get a higher quality filter. The filter is literally the key to the life of your engine. Some people like to trade in every couple of years or so, but I tend to get attached to one especially if I like it real well and I’ll keep it for a long time. If one turns out to be about half a lemon, then that sucker is gone gone. I bought my Dodge 1999 2500 with a V-10 4X4 and 5 speed stick new and I still have it. It’s been a sweet truck. Love that horse power torque. Still doesn’t burn a drop of oil because I’ve kept Conoco 10W30 oil in it with the highest grade Wix filter I could find and changed oil & filter every 2000 miles, until I couldn’t get Conoco brand anymore, (life in a small town) so I began using full synthetic 10W30 and Wix filter.
@@larryray3178 I have a 2009 Mazda 6 which i bought new in October 2008 it now has 178,000 still going strong i get either Super tech 2000 oil filter or use Bosch or Hasting oil filter. I also have a 2016 Mazda 6 which i bought new in June 2015 it now has 100,000 miles still runs like a champ using same oil filters as my other car. Filter is not black but light medium brown during my 4000 miles interval oil change.
If I recall on another filter teardown, the Fram Orange vs Tough Guard (silver) is the amount of filter medium. If you take the medium out and measure it there's usually some amount more, which allows the filter to capture a larger quantity of particulate than the lesser. I've never had issues with the silver FRAM filters, but I change religiously at 3000 miles. If I wanted to push it to 5k or 10k (absurd IMO) I'd certainly use a top shelf filter.
My dad has used the "orange can of death" for at least 25 years and he has never had a problem. But like you said oil gets changed at 3000 miles. So I wonder if it matters much when you are changing that often.
A long time ago-
I worked at a factory, that made home care products. This was way before
Lowes, Home Depot, or WalMart. Most things were still made in USA.
We would make a product, then it got labeled. There were several labels-
True Value, Craftsman, ACE Hardware, etc. The product got it's label,
then boxed up. All the same. The same happens nowadays, but it's
even worse; since there are no Copyright laws in China, Viet Nam,
Malaysia- many manufacturers simply mimic each other, maybe changing
one slight thing. A warning- since this COVID-19 many have noticed a decline
in the already poor quality of some overseas produced products. This
is mainly due to new hires, not learning their job, lack of proper
training, longer shifts. In the world of manufacturing and assembly-
everything rolls downhill. Many factories outsource parts, and all
a company may do is simple assembly. There's probably 3 or 4 companies
actually assembling oil filters, 3-4 producing parts, +10 Name Brands.
When I sold them and before that just delivered them (back in the 90's), Filters made in the USA came from 4 places. Fram, Purolator, Wix, and Champion Labs. Mobil, Group 7, Mopar (for a time), and (for a time) Quaker State, Service Pro, Atlas (for a while), and some other filters were made by Purolator, and the only big differences were the amount of paper in the folds, Purolator branded ones had more by a few inches. Wix only made filters for NAPA (Gold only) , Big engines (iirc Douglas and other large diesel/hydralic etc) and themselves at the time, and they were okay, but over-priced for cars. Fram made Penzoil, and For a time Quaker State, the only difference was the paint, and a Penzoil being $1.25/pr for the same filter Fram was then charging $4 for, and neither was worth the price of the Pennzoil, then again I though at free they were not worth the price.
Champion Labs made AC Delco, Tech2000, some Bosch, Mopar for a time, Warner, STP, and others, and are easy to spot as they look just like the Tech does here. All were the same thing, often the same AC Delco blue, and were fine for normal use.
The best looking US filter was Motorcraft. All 4 made filters for Ford, and All Motorcraft filters were/are exactly alike. So a Filter made for Ford's 302 V8 from any of the 4 was always the same paper, number of folds, valves cans, etc, not just a Purolator painted white and red.
I caught out the Autozone salesman when he pulled the "Motorcraft filters come out of the same factory as Our store brand" (was it Duetze or something at that time?) and I told him and the customer that it was true though more likely it was from Purolator (who made the majority of Ford's filters then), and whether or not it was them, Puro, Wix or Fram, all were different than the Motorcraft. Then I said he would be better off saying his were the same as AC Delco, because they were and cutting one open would prove it.
This and the reply is spot on
@@douggainey Thank you so much, Sir👍🏽
Wow the similarities between super tech and K&N are amazing. This why people should not trust too much on brands, sometimes there are only famous names on a package with the same cheap product.
Being manufactured by the same company is meaningless, the filter media spec is different for different filters, I can almost guarantee you the super tech is using lower efficiency, lower glass fiber content media that has a lower holding capacity.
But there's so much misinformation going on here, filters can't easily be reviewed by eye balls, they have a test for filters the Iso 4548-12 test, that's what matters and the Fram Ultra is top of the charts on efficiency and holding capacity, so far above the rest of the field usually because they are using two layers of full microglass media. Fram ultras typically exceed 99.5% efficiency at 20 microns and 94% at 10 microns.
A lot of times things are made in the same factory from the same parts, because it costs more to have different internal parts. Super Tech is walmart brand so they aren't paying for any advertising. Generally they are the best for for the money.
I worked at an appliance manufacturer. Marketing wanted a cheap freezer to advertise a low ball price on and then get you in the store and sell you something more expensive. We actually found it cheaper to take the nice chrome handle and paint it an ugly flat brown instead of making a completely different cheap handle for the cheap model. So the fact was the cheap ugly freezer cost more to make than the nicer, higher priced one.
Super Tech is a Walmart brand. There's no consistence when it comes to their product as they are typicaly made by a lowest bidder. The same Super Tech filter can be made by two completaly different manufacturers.
Same thing with car batteries
They used to be better. It's a pretty common practice to bring out a great product then rest on that reputation and offer most high priced budget options. Noticed the same with Royal Purple when they had only 2 oils available the independent tests showed them wiping the floor with every . But everything brought out since is lucky to compete with most of the common brands.
There is no scientific data as to the quality of filtration, we know very little about these filters (based on this video)
Facts…
I thought pushing on things with a pair of gloves was a scientific way of measuring filtration as well as weight required to move oil through the system. I have an 08 carolla, and I've used all of those filters with the exception of the super tech. The car is still running as good as the day I started driving it.
Hater. 🙄
God forbid we see how well oil filters through the media.
Mii Entertainment 🤦♂️
Thank you for posting this . Very good video this is. I've never seen what's inside during 25 years of mechanic career so this is something to me.
Job well done ! 👍
My 2011 Prius has over 330,000 miles and has never had any repairs! I use some great car care software called Automotive Wolf to monitor the maintenance schedule and I only use OEM oil and filters from Toyota. I change the oil every 10K miles with full synthetic as recommended in my owner's manual.
Got down to -5 degrees in Abilene, Tx this winter. No problems with my mobil filters.
0 degrees in Ballinger Texas. Same result with Mobil 1 filters. 👍🏽
I'm old school I change my oil and oil filter every 3000 miles no problems here.
As it should be done
I've been doing that since I been driving.
I'm too lazy and my cars are too cheap to be spending so much. I go 6-10k.
@@_AndromedaGalaxy_ even if you have cheap cars you shouldn't let them go that long without an oil change. The parts only cost you about 30 bucks, and you could do it yourself for free in 15 min
I use a Mobil 1 filter in GM truck.
I use a Honda OEM filter in Civic.
I use a Toyota OEM filter in Camry.
For oil I use the appropriate weight of Mobil 1 in all three. Oil changed about once a year on all three. No problems here. BTW, been changing my own for 30 years.
Maybe people that work at Champ are not allowed to comment but many brands of filters come off of their line in Albion Illinois. They may have different filter media but same line with different paint jobs. Personally I ran Fram for 40 years. Ran v8 engines from 150k to 250k miles. Used trucks in farming and the tree industry. Never had engine failure. Changed oil every 3k miles regardless of manufacturer recommendations. Being raised in a shop I was taught oil is the cheapest protection for an engine.
I can appreciate this video however, if the bypass valve is too easily opened then higher oil pressure could allow the oil to bypass under normal driving, negating the filtering effect of the filter. bypass valves should be hard to open by hand when considering the oil pressures in modern engines, typically no lower than 40psi. I love the comparisons though, but some of the information provided is very misleading.
Keep in mind, that the 40 PSI is the difference across the oil pump. The filter should never ever drop that much pressure.
@Tron Jockey you will have to spend $15 to $20 thousand on a replacement battery in 6-8 years, though... Not a deal breaker, but something to keep in mind.
@@gizmoguyar more like 3-4 years when battery pack becomes an issue!
@Tron Jockey you’ll have 1000lbs of lithium paperweight soon enough
@Tron Jockey personally I’d still rather keep up with maintenance and know I can fix it instead of having a dead battery and the only thing I can do is replace it. Plus maintenance on electric vehicles may be infrequent but when it happens you better be ready to sell a kidney.
I worked in a Purolator plant in the mid 60s. Oil and gas filters and air filters. I could go on forever the differences in construction and they were made for all major car manufactures, heavy equipment and garden equipment. They were all made to the customers spec. The papers were different in coatings and heat treatment. All hand assembled and boxed back then. Always wondered who got the dead rat that went in one box!🤔
I've been using Fram filters for Twenty-five years. I used the "orange can of death" for thirteen years on my old 1990 C1500. No issues ever. The only reason I traded that truck in was because I needed more seats when my family grew to four. Fram makes good filters.
i use them too1983.5.0 ford original motor never had a problem...don't use synthetic either... oil is cheap filters are too.. change your oil regularly!NP
Why take a chance. Saving a few bucks every 5 months is simply not worth the risk.
My dad has used them for 25 years as well, no problems. Just change the oil every 3-4k miles and it won't matter if its the "orange can of death".
This is a great review of which filter "looks" best inside. No comparison of which has the best filtration or durability. You don't even seem to realize the two Frams differ in the square inches of filter media.
Thank you for this informative video. However, it is confusing when you are talking about one filter while holding different one.
Xxxxxxxcç,,,, , mom
Exactly
The “eye test” test does not always give an accurate representation of what is going on And can lead to an oversimplification of the process.
This is an example of an intelligent comment.
It does if your checking to see if you need glasses!
So what to do?
Really want a good test , cut them apart after being used. You will see how they take being used. The "orange can of death" was by FAR the worst. They used to have cardboard tubes and the entire filter element had collapsed in several. Good video
Visual examination has absolutely NO relationship on the filtration efficacy, etc. The ONLY way to compare is to take samples over YOUR engine manufacturers recommendations with a LASER particle counter, pressure gages upstream and downstream of the filter ..... and develop what known as a "BETA" plot.
The "BETA" plot is a geometric/graphical (mathematical) comparison 'FLOW RATE vs. removal rating (and total inservice life of the filter at the time the sample was taken.)
In most all cases 'THE MOST IMPORTANT ISSUE WITH ENGINE OIL RECIRCULATION FILTERS is did you change out the filter at the engine manufacturers recommended time .... or less recommended time if the engine was used in severe service? There isnt much more than that for a 'consumer' without a vast array of scientific instrumentation to analyse when comparing various filters: does the filter do its advertised job or Not? Cosmetics, etc. have absolutely NO bearing on filter efficiency and filter in-service life. ENGINE Oil filters became 'settled science' shortly before World War-II. If you want the complete details, etc., lookup Oklahoma State University "(OSU) F2 filter 'test stand' "" .... and look for ASTM/SAE updates for the most up to date requirements.
All that stated, you 'could' simply use compressed pubic hair as your filter material IF your really Know what you were doing and could PROVE that your 'arrangement' of the compressed pubic hair could reliably and **continually** removed 20µM sized particles from the oil while not blocking the oil flow through the entire oil & filter's recommended change out interval.
Rx: Simply CHANGE THE FILTERS (AND OIL) ON A REGULAR BASIS; change them 'earlier' than recommended in dirty ambient conditions or if youre 'beating hell out of the engine'. "Brand really doesnt matter". ;-)
I've used wix oil filters for years. You can actually feel a difference in weight of the filter vs others. More pleats and built better
Check out Whip City Wrencher's video on Wix oil filters.
@@wg5768 there's a reason pretty much every single engine making multiple thousands of hrspwrs is running a wix or Napa filter...
@@Matt-xu6hz I've heard Napa is good.
@@billp4 it's wix gold filters for 99% of applications, even the part# is the same, just the last 4 digits of the wix numbers
@@billp4 Napa Golds are rebranded Wix filters.
this is interesting to see working on automobiles everyday for a living. my biggest suggestion is just stay on top of changing your oil and no matter what anyone tells you or what is advertised. don't wait 10,000 or 20,000 miles to change your oil no matter what kind of oil/filter you have.
its amazing what you see when you disassemble a engine that was "regularly maintained"
not to mention the amounts of ethanol they put in our gas nowadays, its amazing how it turns the carbon buildup to a soft sticky sludge that clogs everything.
My e85 car is the cleanest of any I've disassembled due to the alcohol cleaning valves and piston surface
Used to change every 2 to 3 thousand miles i still do CHEAP insurance
I change mine every 10000 miles and have over 200000 miles on my car with no issues.
a few years ago I was in-charge of generator maintenance, I had the same natural gas generator turbo failure 3 years in a row, we finally inspected the turbo oil supply and found a piece of filter element lodged in the turbo orifice restricting the flow. I don't remember the brand used. no cheap filters for me now, its money well spent.
Rich
Wow super teck I've been buying them because I'm cheap, didn't know that I'm also brilliant!
Same as oil buy the cheapest as long as your changing every 3~5 thousand miles.
Ur not only brilliant but very lucky!
Super tech also has dexcool coolant for GM vehicles, same as name brand but substantially cheaper.
I have been being laughed at because I change my oil every 3000 mi to 5000 mi Dependingon conditions. I have used supertech oil and filters and have almost 200k on a Ford Taurus, A TAURUS!
@@norcal715 actually the Taurus engine is very good solid. The body's all rot out up here in the north east. Run it till the wheels fall off.
I have had 2 Toyotas, a 1984 Toyota 4x4 (22R engine) and a 2002 Highlander V6, both had over 280,000 miles when I recently sold both of them because of a move. I used the cheap Fram filter and Penzoil 10-30w and 5-30 oils in both. I would change the oil at 4,000 to 4,500 miles and neither burned a drop of oil. The importance is proper maintenance!
I have used Fram filters for 35 years on motorcycles, to 4 cylinders to v8s. Not once have I ever had an issue. This is putting well over 500K miles in total in cars. I put 350K miles on a Toyota corolla, Not once did I have an issue. Engine never leaked a drop of oil either. But it did use it when I sold the car, the rings were pretty used up. This video means nothing until he has multiple failures that cause engines to lock up.
You should remove the paper element and measure the length of each to see if there is any difference in overall material.
These have been done repeatedly here on youtube.
Why that proves nothing! It has to be tested AFTER its been in service!
that wouldnt measure much as the grade of paper and the way it is folded make a bigger difference than the amount of material .
@@vctrsone It has to be tested AFTER its been in service!
@@vctrsone like the friend said above. The way it performs has a bigger difference that how long it is or how it looks. It wouldn't be fair to judge any filter based of on looks than actually putting the filter into service.
The hole in the nut on the K&N makes it easier on motorcycles for track day usage when you have to safety wire the filter in place. But I'm heard horror stories of the outer housing blowing off with the K&N filters. I've never experienced that myself when I've run the K&N filters, however for the bikes I went back to factory filters, which is typically made by Denso. On my cars, I've always ran Fram and never had any issues, but I change them every 3K and I don't push the engine that hard either.
Most of the Mobil 1 filters are made in US. They are also heavy. I have done analysis with my F150 and the oil filters do great. I love them. Also can get them cheap at Walmart. Win win. XP is good also
I’ve always used Super Tech oil and filter in my Ranger pick up because of the price. It now has 160k miles and still runs smooth and quiet.
paper will soak up all that all
I used to work at crossland filters, we made filters for our own crossland filter boxes and Ford motorcraft filters, they were identical apart from some markings and the packaging.
The cold weather concern with the Mobil1 is a non issue as it's specifically designed to work with full synthetic oil, which doesn't thicken up in cold weather.
Synthetic oil still thickens up in cold weather, just not as much as conventional
@learn2 farm your dad is a smart man and absolutely right about cold starts being most of engine wear, I to use about 20% synthetic lucas stabilizer with my oil changes.
@learn2 farm that's not how it works anymore. It's a bad idea to thicken the oil with Lucas goo in cold weather in modern engines. Modern engines have tight tolerances. So it's important that the oil is thin and can flow into tight spaces. There's no room for sticky goo in between the moving parts. The goo will starve the engine from oil flow. The engine will have to work harder so they will be more heat.
@@chrisdonnelly5904 what do you and learn2 farm mean by 20%?
@@brianmarcello3329 20% means 20% is Lucas to 80% oil. In other words 1 quart of Lucas and 4 quarts of oil.
Good video. I was a K&N user for a long time for the simple fact you could put a socket with an extension on it to get it off. Now I just take mine to the dealer every 5K religiously for oil and rotation. It costs about the same as doin it myself.
The interesting thing you showed was the kn and the super tech filters were identical. Just goes to show ya. Good info.
I've used the K&N for years, when he talked about the Hex to allow for the use of a special wrench I thought yeah a 1" socket is real special. That is a convenience when you have multiple vehicles because the 1" hex is standard across the whole K&N line.
What are you paying because I pay over $90 for a full synthetic change. So now I'm going to do my own.
@@senormcdoofus2231 how many quarts does your vehicle use? For example a 3.0l inline 6 from bmw uses ~7 quarts, 7@$10/quart plus filter cost ~$10, leaving about $10 for labor. Granted the shop/dealerships get these items a lot cheaper than normal folk. Now if you do it yourself you can get 2x5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 full synthetic for ~$45 from Walmart plus filter for about $10 so $55 or $90 but you have to get under the car. It's almost worth the $35 to not have to go to Walmart or get under the car...
Unless you can see them physically opening Mobil1 containers, there is no proof that they (shop people) are actually adding Mobil1 oil to my engine. This is the primary reason I will always do my own oil changes with the knowledge for a fact that Mobil1 oil was indeed added - by me, no mystery, no question, no trust issue.
@@alexayache8556 Getting under your car every now and then is a good idea because it allows you to inspect for things like leaks, torn boots, etc. While some people change their own oil only because it saves them money, most do it because they that know how cars work and how to fix them and aren't scared to turn a wrench or get a little oil under their fingernails.
Not sure how you can grade filters by purely looking at them? No pressure testing, no particle testing, ... Pure opinion and completely Non-scientific. This is providing no one with any real perspectives. I agree with the gentleman below. Buy what suits your needs. Just change your oil as recommended and you will have no issues.
In my entire life, I've never had an oil filter O-ring stick to the car/truck/boat/motorcycle/airplane... but it's good practice to look at the filter to make sure.
I never did until recently, 25+ years and one almost got me. Screwed the new filter on, fished the old one out of the drain pan. No o-ring, fish the pan with a screwdriver, no o-ring....pull the new filter, low and behold, o-rings!
It's happened to me with the orange Frams
I do a lot of oil changes and it's stayed on only a couple of times but I tend to over tighten mine quite a bit. I do check every time though to make sure it's not stuck on engine.
It doesn't happen often. But I used to change oil at a dealership, amd I had it happen a few times.
I actually have had it happen on a few occasions each time it was a orange fram filter.
Need a comparison with the OEM filter to make this valid
OEM is a ryco filter which are far better quality than anything shown here.
ABSOLUTELY AGREE THANK YOU
Did you know that filters are are manufactured by filter companies. Auto manufacturer's build vehicles. A filter can be built to an OEM's specifications paint it black and stamp Toyota, but its still manufactured by Denso. Filters are not classed the way " ported and polished heads verses stock Vortec". Thats the "splitting hairs" argument. There are not alot of filter manufacturer's. Basic technology is the same. Thats why many filters are identical on inside. ( like twins identical)
The hole in the KN filter is there so you can safety wire it....often required for racing events or just your own piece of mind.
That would actually be a great idea for the Mustang GT350. The flat plane crank tends to create strange vibrations that end up working the filter loose, dropping oil pressure on the race track and killing the engine
I know that I'm late to this discussion, but you did a nice job. Regarding the bypass valve on the Mobil filter, the first time I saw one of these was many years ago on a Toyota OE filter. Interestingly, they use a completely different pleat structure, probably for a greater surface area. Regarding the difference between the 2 Fram filters, it appears that the cheaper one has a lesser number of pleats. This would result in a lesser surface area. If you haven't already done it, removing the filter element and unfolding it to determine total area might be enlightening. I use Wix. Cheers
Wixom sux
I use k&n filters and never had a problem with the gasket or anything for that matter, also love the wrench off feature, makes it super easy to get off
Same, long time k&n user also
The feature is a necessity in tight spaces like my 1996 Mini. A 20 minute job can easily jump to 90 minutes when they get stuck
@@seattlesix absolutely, on my old truck the only way to get to the oil filter was from the bottom so the only way to get it off was by hand and if ended up being too tight to get off it took me forever, the wrench off saved my ass more than once
As a mechanic, I love seeing those k&n filters because I know all I have to do is grab a big wrench, I think it’s a 1”nut, and you’re good to go. No messing with oil filter pliers which can be a pain if the filter is really tight. I don’t think I would spend the extra money just for this feature though.
I never changed oil @ 20k, I always change oil every 3k, sometimes 6k but it starts to change to a darker color. But I always used Mobil 1 and k&n filters. Never had an issue. Like your video👍
With Mobil 1, I get 12,000 to 13,000 k on an oil change...and my oil minder never gets below 20% oil life left.
I have been using Mobil 1 for almost a year now and compared to the Frams I was using my oil stays much cleaner , longer , even tho I still change it on time , everytime , every 4,000 miles , synthetic oil 5-20 , and the oil has been much cleaner at the oil change .
I have done every oil change on my pickup in 17 years and notice better mileage and performance using Mobil 1 products now with the switch .
The " paper towel test every 2 weeks when I check the oil , even @ 3,000 miles in is still impressively clean at that time since my switch . So I reccommend Mobile 1 .
I do regional deliveries and i do mine every 10k i been doing it for years and never had a engine issue that mobil1 is good stuff
Always open the box 📦 since there’s a chance someone may’ve substituted a cheapie oil filter in place of the quality one. I always check for damage and the O ring and found an inferior one placed neatly in the box.
They do this at Walmart all the time. One time I bough an air filter. Got home and opened it, it was completely black! I check everything now before I leave the store.
I hope I’m not the only person that thinks this guy sound like Sean from The Fast and the Furious Tokyo Drift
Or H.I. McDunnough from Raising Arizona
Totally
THANK YOU!
That was driving me nuts
I thought the exact same thing!! Its the kid from slingblade all grown up haha!!
@@Jerbearz06 Now I want some fried taters. Hmmmmmmmmm.
Well, I've been using the Mobil1 oil filters on my 09 Ford Flex since 2012 with Royal purple oil, it's a 3.5L non ecoboost engine. I do regularly change the oil every 5K and have never had any engine issues with this set up. When you look down into the valve cover it's super clean, zero sludge, looks like it's a fresh engine, spark plugs burn the proper color and I run a K&N air filter. I live in central Canada so the temperature varies between plus 35C and -45C. Just my 2 cents.
Royal purple has cleaning thingy mijiger jk but royal purple helps clean sludge and build up. Its good. Word out am oil is better
@@emmanuellujan9078 all oils have some types of detergents though. Royal Purple has been good for this application is all. In my Big Block Ford 429cid. I need to see higher pressures for the engine performance because it's more of a race application, so for that the engine runs 20/50 wt. Non Synthetic . The seals are not for use with synthetics.
Its mobil... not mobile
Appreciate the effort, it's nice to see the quality of the internals, maybe do a part 2 with Wix, Purolator, motorcraft, and any others that have been suggested in the comments. Thank you Hate.
The ONLY fair comparison is to analyze the inlet vs. output performance using a LASER particle counter + flow (rate) totalizer. A smart-ass filtration engineer could produce BETTER and more efficient filterability by carefully constructing a 'filter' using shredded Kotex material in a large sized tin can.
Rx: Dont compare by 'beauty' and anal-retentivee perceptions of the unimportant .... the only thing that counts is 'the numbers'.
There's no magic in engine recirculation oil filtration ... all the bugs were worked out into 'settled science' in the 1930s.
******** Simply change your oil and filter at the recommended time/mileage interval.
If you own a Königgsegg or other $1MM 'exotic': 1. check with the EXACT engine requirement 2. Get your butler to handle the vehicle mainentance for you.
@@richh1576 😆🤣😂
K&N and Mobil filters are almost impossible to get in the UK. My dad trained as a mechanic in his youth and swore by Fram. Until the late 80s. They went through a spell when you could open a new box to see a rusty filter. When i lived in the UK i always stuck to Wix. Now in Germany i use Mahle or Hengst filters.
idk man im using k&n filters here in the uk without any issues, you can get them pretty easy now
I like Wix & Mahle. Little harder to get in the USA, but they're worth it.
@@AftermathXJ220 wix and fleetguard were the same when i checked about 4 years ago couldnt find a wix for my Cummins but fleetguard is who made the mopar filter that came on it. So wix ,fleetguard and mopar all the same for a 5.9 Cummins
opie oils. always used k&n
I use Supertech products in my truck and mowers. Never had a problem. The 2 stroke oil is great too.
I work for a motor oil production plant. We make the oils, we bottle it,we label it and we box it. Let me tell you. Mobile one synthetic oil come from the exact same tank as many of the much less expensive brands. I'm the guy that hooks the tank up to the filler the machine that fills the bottles. Now we also bottle Castrol edge. And Castrol makes the oil to their standard and ships the oil to us ready to bottle. Castrol doesn't trust anybody to make their oil. Which is a good thing. But mobile one that everybody think is some outstanding oil compared to other brands comes from the exact same tank. The filler will go from filling mobile one to a budget brand and the only things that change are the bottles,labels,and boxes. But the oil is exactly the same from the exact same bulk tank. Castrol edge might be the same but they make it theirself so I would know. Same with royal purple and amsoil. Oh and that 10$+ a quart BMW stuff yep same tank as mobile 1 and budget brands. Stay away from gas staion branded oil and Quaker state it actually is made to a lower quality mainly missing much of the detergents and will most like build up sludge much quicker. But do your self a favor when you go to do your oil change buy whatever name brand full synthetic is on sale that month. Because they are all the same.
Damn thanks for that because I have tried some of the different type oils. So pretty much it don't matter what type we use pretty much none of them is greater than the next?
Amsoil and royal purple made by the same company with the same quality and standards? Amsoil is much better then RP
@@hightidelowtide6380 is that so?
No amsoil and rp both blend their own oil and send it in bulk to be filled into quarts or gallons. I meant they operate the same as Castrol edge. All of them blend their own oil and we just put it in bottles.
But basically the gas station brands and Quaker state are made to much lower standards. All the name brands are equal. And the high end high performance stuff is sent to the bottling companies per blended. So if your daily driver car is do for a change you should buy the brand that the auto parts store has on sale that month. Auto parts stores always has a name brand oil on sale and it changes every month. But if you have a high performance vehicle and you actually drive it like a high performance you might get some benefits from the high end stuff. But 99% of high performance vehicle owners will never push their motor hard and long enough to see any benefits from the high performance stuff.
Just throwing this out there. I learned a lot from working on locomotives. Engines these days hardly have an oil related failure. We have engines that run non stop through winter and we don’t change oil ever until something (usually water seal failure) contaminates the oil. Longest I have seen is 10 years between oil changes. Not synthetic either. I have a theory that the “health” of the oil is determined more by the heat it sees. Short trips and big motors that aren’t ever “worked” have sludge issues. My old cavalier I would change at 30,000 miles and new filter then too. When we retired it I took the engine apart to see if I screwed it up. Not one lick of sludge or wear lube oil failure. And that was cheap filters too. But I do like the video. It did explain something about the quality
So are you saying I should beat the piss out of my engine?
That oil must be getting a additive package with the top-off along the way, though
I read a story years ago where a fleet of taxis in New York stopped changing oil in some of their cars. They went 100s of thousands of miles with only top ups as required. At the end of the service life (dictated more by cosmetics, transmission failures, rust, etc), engine teardowns showed no difference from those that had had regular oil changes.
I also find it hard to believe that with all the advances in oil technologies and additives that the oil companies advertise and say how good their oil is, that we still change our oil every 5000 kms (3000 miles) as was done in the 1950s and 60s.
Any Australians in here? A Canadian buddy of mine spent a couple months in Australia touring in a rented camper van. At 5000 kms, he took it in for an oil change. The mechanic asked why and was puzzled that the answer he got was that it was due at 5000kms. Does that ring true, my Down Under brothers of different mothers??
@@stevest1300 my dad put on 300,000miles on his ford 1.5 ford engine. He never changed his Mobile 1 but replaced the filter every 3000 miles
I put 70k on a pentastar 3.6 in a 2014 Dodge Charger without a oil change, it screwed that motor up bad. 60k thru 130k. Los Angeles. The oil pressure dropped to nothing, I did the change, the filter, cartridge type on top of the motor, had basically disintegrated, came out in pieces, the oil around the filter looked like a combination of licorice candy and wheel bearing grease. After that I'd go a couple thousand miles and the pressure would drop, I'd replace the filter and go another 2k.
I made champion filters for 5 years and yes they made alot of filters the same that just changed packaging, but also some had more pleats than others and an anti drain back valve whereas others had no anti drain back valve and less pleats, STP FILTERS had a double filter media that was thick double paper we called it kotex paper it sorta looked like it and all of champion made filters had a steel end cap and steel tube atleast at the plant I worked in, I was the pleater operator, I ran the pleated paper
When you tell a woman ‘I’m a pleater operator, I pleate.’ How moist were their panties?
Walmart's Suoer Tech products are pretty amazing. Their oil beats other major brands in testing, coming from a company in business since 1922. Their oil filters are soild and well made with quality. Great stuff.
If I am not mistaken, the synthetic Supertech oil is made by Valvoline, so I would assume all the Supertech oils are. Is all I use after finding that out.
Those Frams end caps are made of synthetic material . Those discoloration are the heat effective zone as they were resulted from impregnating of the adhesive.
Not the one I took apart. It was all mushy and slimy with bits falling off. It was on a junkyard engine but looked pretty new.
I just wish you have the equipment to test for how well the filter material is able trap contaminates.
Enjoyed your video! I use Wix and Baldwin filters on my older trucks and tractors, and OEM or Mobil 1 filters on my newer equipment that use synthetic oils. I use Rotella straight weight oils for older gas and diesel engines - Mobil 1 for the ones needing synthetics. My oldest 'runner' currently is a '49 Willys with a flathead 4. I can still buy a great Baldwin cartridge filter off-the-shelf for its bypass oil system.
Don’t have a old 4.0 Jeep by chance do you? If so what oil you run or would run. I run Rotella 10-30 currently but it’s the first time I’ve ran it. Having some lifter noise with it. Ugh
@@BradMillsOK I don't currently have any straight 6 gasoline engines. Have had them in 3 different Toyota Land Cruisers that I have owned, plus long ago in a '61 Ford Falcon. We do have a 4.2 diesel in a "FrankenJeep" truck my son drives - a Cherokee chassis with a J-truck cab and a 1930's Willys bed. His other Jeep is a '66 CJ6A with a little 225 V6. If you are sure your valve train is in good shape you might try switching to a good synthetic to try to calm the top-end rattle.
I live in Minnesota. Where it definitely gets cold. The only filter I've used for year's is a Mobil 1. I think they are amazing
nobody cares.
I do care, I live in Chicago, thanks for the info.
Also live in MN and leave my truck out on the lake for a week at a time and start it up no problems from Mobil one filter yet?
I read this comment in a Minnesotan accent.
Mann for my 375,000 mile 2003 1.9 tdi.....Amsoil 5w40 synthetic.....can't beat it.
I been using fram for years. Never had a problem. Change your oil and filter regularly following your vehicles maintenance schedule. Overtime oil breaks down. It looses it's lubricating and cooling properties. And will even begin to turn to sludge if left too long. If you don't, you can destroy any engine regardless of the oil and filter brand.
FRAM IS GARBAGE
EXCEPT THE ULTRA. THREE MECHANICS IN FAMILY! HAD MANY PROBLEMS WITH FRAM
I run the Mobil 1 filter on my Equinox with Mobil 1 oil and have no issues with it.
@screaming chivo What!? I didn't know the Rx-8 and wrx use the same filter!
The very next M1 filter I used started spraying engine oil all over the underside of my car through a seam in the case so I ended up going back to the ac delco pf64.
The feature on the k&n filter is for safety wire at a race track. Without it, you'll need to put a pipe clamp around the filter and safety wire the clamp. This reduces the chance of it backing out. This is also done on the drain plug, brake caliper bolts, etc.
In my bike I use a FLO reusable spin on filter. Instead of using paper to filter the oil it uses 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth. There is also a magnet in the filter to catch any metal particles in the oil. To clean it you remove it from the bike unscrew it apart, pull out the filter cartridge and spray everything with parts cleaner.
They also dont filter very well.
Try synchronizing what you’re talking about with what your doing and showing with your hands.
Yes please 🙏 I'm like why the fuck is he holding a fram filter talking about the mobil1 bypass valve
@@spudbot69
I just thought he was bipolar.
Yah the jumping around made my eyes spin. I think it's a really valuable comparison that would be an outstanding comparison with a systematic left- to- right flow, repeated in each category, and maybe a chart to sum it up at the end. Lose the gloves, everything is clean.
Having said all that, thank you for an informative piece that will improve my own practice.
Yes, I quit using Fram years ago after watching a similar video. Now I only use Napa gold or Wix filters.
@Frank Masuzzo K&N I'd use. But the Napa gold ones in my opinion are hard to beat.
Passed 711,300 miles this week in the LLY Duramax changing oil every 10 to 11k Rotella oil and Fram HP4 filters. I don't cut them open but they seem to work just fine.