Producing a candy paint job using the Molotow liquid chrome refill. {Part I}
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Today we will be producing a candy paint job on a 1/25th scale car using the Molotow liquid chrome refill.
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Here is a link to this item as well as the glue I use:
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At 10:45 you ajust the needle. You pulled it back. Why?
Try Gaia transparent red. Nice color
Thank you I will have to check it out
Very nice work. A great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Hard to find real chrome. They all revendicate it but all of them fail
Hey Merv, like what you are doing, look forward to part 2, l am struggling with air brushing so very interested in watching how close you spray, cheers for Australia
You know I'd never really thought about that because I've been doing it for so long it's just muscle memory at this point but you have a very good point about knowing how far away to spray with how viscous your paint is. Thanks for the idea for an upcoming tutorial.
Wonder how much I'd need for a full size cosplay helmet for the chrome.
Honestly that refill pain would probably do it. I think they're about $29 for refill
@maddogmerv6743 thanks, they have them at my local hobby lobby and was wondering about using one.
It air brushes well. Put it on thick however, thin coats don't work well.
@@maddogmerv good too know thanks!
What primer should I use for alclad gloss black base coat? Thanks.
Thanks for watching! With Alclad, I have used the Krylon 2x primer before. Also, Mr. Surfacer would be a good choice as well. I usually think it a bit before a spray it. Experiment on a scrap piece or a paint mule to get the hang of it and check it's compatibility with the black base coat.
I did something similar with a gun dam build. I didn’t use Molotow I used alclad paints. And tamiya clear. I learned the hard way how not to use alcad chrome on the small scale group build...lol
just found your channel and subbed... .great stuff
Well thank you for watching and thank you for subscribing! There is a lot of different variety on this channel and I hope you find it entertaining as well as educational. Just like this project here many of the things I do are kind of a first-time tryout kind of thing. I like to show folks that if I can do it you certainly can do it
That’s amazing merv
Thank you for watching and thank you for the kind comment.
Hey Maddog the Motolow would be AWESOME on a Shelby Cobra to make it look like chrome! (& I was wondering about that right before watching this video!)
Thanks for watching! You bring up a good point, when I was at the Shelby America Museum this last year they had a very highly polished SC cobra. And yes this would work very nicely for that purpose. Even if you top-coated it with a clear gloss it would still have a very shiny look as well as beef protected.
The biggest issue I've found with the Molotow Liquid Chrome, is it never cured, and stayed soft and tacky. Even if I tried thinning it with laquer thinners. Maybe it's been a bad batch I bought, but I have seen a few comments on various model making forums saying the same, it never cures.
I do hope you have better luck than I do!
I found if you put it in a dehydrator, with the temp set to 105° or so, it definitely helps to harden it up.
One drawback is it doesn’t like to be handled much….too much handling and it loses its luster.
Well honestly I don't think it cures hard ever I guess I could get that Mustang out that I did last year and see if the trim is finally cured. But this project I sprayed the other paint over it and believe it or not they didn't adhere very well to that nice smooth Chrome! LOL that's coming up in part 2. I was able to get pretty good results after putting a coat of future over it though. Honestly I'm going to stick to the mulitalo for small things such as trim or trophies things like that.
I think the trouble with doing that is the paint is laying on a surface that’s too “slick”. Especially enamels……they may not play nice with the properties of the Molotow.
A hotter automotive candy might work better as it’ll “bite” into the paint a bit harder. At least you can strip the Mustang at best. I don’t see the plastic being etched so stripping shouldn’t be much trouble.
Well I like this video because it's kind of a cliffhanger. Wait until you see how it turns out in part 2. There's some real challenges to overcome. When I like about doing some of these projects this way is I've never really tried this exact method before so you get to see it as I get to see it. But trust me, it turns out amazing in the end.
Your hand is sure steady with the spray gun.I have a dumb question, do you ever clear coat models?
Also, aside ftom vacuming,how fo you keep dust particles out of your paint area? I heard if you spray bottke mist the area just before painting,the moisture traps loose dry dust .
Pretty impressed with the paint job.very custom.Your work is nice and diliberate,A PRO.
Thanks for your comments mark. And it's certainly not a dumb question it's a great question. Impart to you we'll see what I use for the clear coat it's actually future floor finish. But sometimes I use the testers high gloss clear I'll have to get the number on it but I've use that several times. It just takes forever to dry where future is dry within an hour. Nope I don't use a vacuum and what you don't see off camera is that I have a big barn style door that is about 5 ft from where my camera mount is. So technically I spray Outdoors even though I'm in the shed there is that big door that is almost always open when I paint. I've learned to use automotive tack Rags over the years as well as other methods to try to keep the Dust down. But in this video you I think you can see there's a couple of pieces of dust that I had to polish out with the polishing pad maybe that's in part 2.
Nice work Maddog. What needle size and pressure are you running. My best results have been low pressure with a .3 needle.
I honestly don't know. I will have to look at the next time I am near my brush, I'm just using the one that came with the evolution.
the problem is your body takes in the chemicals it then gets to a point when your body will not take anymore, and you cannot tolerate the chemicals at all anymore, then you cannot even be in the area you will get sick, the only reason i know is i painted in a shop for years and i cannot be around even fingernail polish without making me sick, i just don't want that to happen to anyone else, sorry if i come off like a jerk.
No worries, I appreciate your comments they bring up some very good points that are very valid and people should know and understand those things. Again thank you for watching and thank you for making the comments it really is appreciated.
Man that looks awesome from. where I'm sitting. What PSI did you shoot this with? I know you said you didn't but one still has to wonder if this can be polished out and if you can clear coat it?
You can clear coat it especially if you use future. I think I shot this at @ 30psi
@@maddogmerv Thats a lot higher then I thought
how about a mask?
For me no. I spray in a building that has very good ventilation and a open door so there is very good air flow.
they are your lungs for sure, what does that say to the people that watch you, should they not know safety when painting.
Thank you for your comments. Safety is certainly something we all have a different level of awareness to. I don't wear safety glasses very often unless of course I'm using a cutting wheel. I certainly should, but don't. I must admit I'm really a bad example when it comes to teaching safety when modeling.
Especially with a kid running around in the room!!!
😢
This was an interesting experiment for me, the paint does not adhere well to this nice smooth Chrome surprise surprise. However as you will see in part two were able to make it into something that turns out pretty darn cool.
Try Gaia transparent red. Nice color