Thanks for the mention. Leaving the paint a long time seems to be the trick with the molotow paints. And it covers even the roughest surfaces very well.
@BloodMoonYT they tend to have at least 2 "screen time"(tv or film) vehicles each year, so far they've done: bttf delorean (regular and hover mode), ecto 1 ,doms ice charger, simpson car,jetson pod,flintmobile, cruella de ville car, mystery machine ,snoopy, a team van, .....you get the idea :D
I was in the middle of building a 1:24 Tamiya car model when I saw this video, I ordered the Molotow Liquid chrome ink refill to paint the metal sections and did so with a mix of 50/50 Mr Hobby’s levelling thinners and the LIquid chrome. The finish on the parts coated is beyond my expectations for the product, you don’t get how true to real chrome the finish is until they are side by side. I did a test on a artists paint brush, one with a chromed metal section holding the bristles in place, a friend couldn’t tell where the chrome ended ad the paint/ink began. 5 out of 5, 10 out of 10.
Wery nice, but do you think it gave you a better result than if you airbrushed it using Tamiya x 11 chrome silver thinned with the leveling thinner? Or maybe the super chrome silver 2 by mr hobby?
I've been using the Molotow pens since they came out but never knew there were refills and so never considered airbrushing them. The chrome look with these pens is outstanding but trying to cover larger areas without buildup is tricky. Airbrushing with refills is the perfect answer..thanks!
The marker is how I do my headlights, taillights, and turning signals. I hit the areas with the chrome marker, and then after it dries I use a extra fine point sharpie on taillights and signals. Also use it for door handles, locks and emblems. It's great for rechroming bumpers and rims too! I just bought a copper marker to try and revive a custom barracuda redline.
I believe there's another benefit in using that paint, it can be applied with a brush which is really difficult or even impossible with other paints like alclad II or MM metalizers. Loved the result looks a hundred times better than the chromed plastic that Mattel uses.
Using a brush with Molotow - unless the object you're painting is really small - is a bad idea. Airbrushing is easier and gives a much better result! I've tried both, and using a brush it's almost impossible not to have brush marks.
That chrome looks great. Please update us if the chrome turns ugly or not down the road. Would like to apply this method to the plastic base of some 70's redlines like the torino stocker. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work.
The chrome's just fine if allowed a good few days to cure, it only dulls if handled before total cure which the impatient (I include myself there lol) are likely to do
Great result! but If you want a better mirror finish and shine, I recommend using Alclad II chrome with their gloss black base. I used their product a few times and the results are great especially on small projects like this one. Many people say it is hard to use but from my experience it is not that hard. Just spray the gloss black with /30/35 psi and spray in thick layers and you need a really smooth surface. With the Allclad II chrome it is the exact opposite, first a really thin layers and spray it at an angle!!!
Thank you for the demonstration. I took some paint from the pen n put it in a spoon for brush painting. I later found that it adhered to the bare plastic and could not be rubbed off with the fingers.
Wow, that looks really good. I appreciate you making these videos. They always transport me back to the slow-moving, calmer days of the 70's. The first car/truck I remember having was a Baja Bruiser. I loved that thing. My mom bought it for me in the Sears store in Rapid City in 1974, I believe. I think she bought it to keep me from annoying her, lol. I think it would be fun to turn an actual full-sized truck into one.
@@robertoshigeeda1944 Há diversas marcas, a mais comum de ser encontrada é a Colorgin, o problema dessas latas é que o cromado não fica como na tampa, que é semelhante ás bases cromadas das miniaturas, parece mais um papel alumínio, até que reflete alguma coisa, mas como eu dise acima, a tinta queima ao toque, ficando prata até cinza, e se tentar usar veniz, ele se mistura com a tinta e causa o mesmo efeito. Se quiser algo melhor, existem kits químicos á venda.
Hi. I love your videos, especially how detailed oriented you are regarding your process. You are absolutely helping people learn the hobby in the best way possible. I was curious as to whether or not you had any comments (now several years later) regarding the finish of the chrome. I realize that you later did a mad max conversion to the Gru-Mobile, but was curious as specifically as to how the Spectraflame clear coat reacted with the chrome (if at all)? Thank you again for your great videos.
I always have Molotow Markers as paint markers. They do cover very well and the colors are very bright (Love the Poison Green), but I never used the Silver and Chrome ones, because i had some bad experiences in the past with silver markers (Before molotow) and didn't buy them since then. Just checked ArtPrimo channel who mada a graffiti on a model freight car using this Molotow chrome, and the result is just spectacular.
It’s good to know there is another clear Cote option for this paint. Just to give you some durability on this. I painted steel bumpers on a 1:10 rock crawler which I use to drive through the woods. Months later and many abusive drives it is still as shiny as when applied. You can check the truck out on my channel EPA Crawlers.
Very nice result. Chrome plating plastic will change the dimensions and hide the details you like to preserve. Your method is good as you can control the quantity of paint applied like an artist.
Have you tried it? I just airbrushed 2 masquerade masks 4 days ago, and they turned out amazing! This stuff really looks like chrome!! HOWEVER - 4 days later, I've been drying them in the sun - it's cool here at the moment under 20C - and the finish has gone a bit dull. I'm hoping this is just a transitional look, as I've heard Molotow takes a very long time to fully cure. It's now just a very bright almost matt silver in parts, while other parts are still shiny. I'm hoping it's the thick areas transitioning? I'm going to put them on my car windshield tomorrow to really dry them out for a few days and see if the shine comes back? Anybody else had this dulling effect after time? Does it go shiny once fully cured ?
That was an excellent idea and I will definitely have to try it out. I don't restore Hot Wheels but I do build semi truck models, and this looks like it could be a better alternative to Alclad for rechroming parts.
I’ve been airbrushing this stuff into chrome parts when restoring Transformer toys. I’ve found that thinning it with Mr Hobby levelling thinners does two things. First, makes is spray beautifully, far better than straight from the bottle. Second, the paint seems to cure harder and quicker, most likely because it’s not on so thick.
nice , i was searching for cool chrome products ... best i found so far is VICROM chrome effect give it a try .is much much stronger than any chrome paint i tried so far , although molotow seems to work pretty good
May I give some tips when using this, I like to put a glossy black base with or without primer, then spray it. After I clear it with future floor shine or just no clear at all :)
FWIW… An alternative to masking with tape is to mask with rubber cement applied with a SMALL stiff artist’s paintbrush. It peels off cleanly after drying. Works great.
I'd like to see how this held up, I used a chrome pen by the same manufacturer on a partially worn twin mill engine, after a while, it looks more like steel than the vacuum metalised chrome
I've had the same problem. As it dried 4 days later it looks a bit dull!! I'm going to keep drying it in the sun to see what happens. Initially it's amazing!! Exactly like chrome!! I'm hoping it's a transitional effect. I've also had the same problem with Green Stuff World chrome. That is also alcohol based, and dulled as it dried.
Further to my previous comment. This morning it was a bright, though matt looking silver. I've put it on my car windscreen in the sun again, and as it heats up it's bright chrome again!! I'm hoping that when it's fully dry it will be like chrome?? I'll do a final update in a month!!
This looks fantastic and I'd like to try it for plastic airplane kits for that bare aluminum look. It looks like it would be great for restoring original HW chrome Sizzlers.
You should make a video talking about your painting equipment. What guns you use the psi needed for them weather or not you made or bought your paint booth. Do you have a separate shop setup or is this in your house, ventilation, ect ect
That looks great! Now I have to get a Grumobile. I'd be interested to see you chrome a mottled bare metal hot wheel and then spectra flame to see if it will rescue a patchy casting?
Hi. Very nice job. In your opinion: a couple of drops of spectraflame hardener y the liquid chrome could make the silver paint more resistent? Thank you. Keep uploading videos as greats as these.
That little extra piece of tape that you forgot to snip off when you covered the decal triggered my OCD. LOL Nice video though, I want to use this paint for miniatures. :)
Crazy long cure time... I use Alclad II metal paints on my scale models and they dry and cure super fast and don't tear when removing masking tape etc, but in a pinch you can clearly use chrome pen inks!
hi ! Nice video ! I have a problem finding the clear coat in Europe I manage to get some alclad varnish klear kote but very expensive . what is an alternative to coat it ?
You said that you had to wet the paint before putting on the clear coat. How do you do this? Do you just spray water from your airbrush then spray the clear coat? Thank you
What do you mean by "wet the paint"? I'm trying to paint a prop chrome but it's going to need to be handled A LOT and the clear coat needs to not crack when flexed.
My Molotow pen tip dried up after using it only a few times. Im going to drain the paint into a dedicated paasche airbrush bottle. Kind of pissed me off because they're so expensive and the you say I got was maybe a couple parts on a model and I did put the cap on each and every time I used it.
Hey there, thanks for easing my concerns about airbrushing with Molotow. Now, you mentioned laquer thinner to clean the brush afterwards, which did you mean? Does kerosene for oil paints do the job? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the mention. Leaving the paint a long time seems to be the trick with the molotow paints. And it covers even the roughest surfaces very well.
Toy Polloi you guys should do a collaboration or cross over video... maybe restore a vintage hot wheels Star Wars toy or something
Damn learned two things today
1: that you can use an airbrush the refill and it looks awesome
2: HW made a Gru-mobile
Youd be surprised at what HW doesnt make now. They even made battlestar galactica models.
@@octane613 I remember seeing a Hot Wheels Curiosity Rover around the time that mission landed on Mars. In retrospective I regret I didn't get it.
@BloodMoonYT they tend to have at least 2 "screen time"(tv or film) vehicles each year,
so far they've done:
bttf delorean (regular and hover mode), ecto 1 ,doms ice charger, simpson car,jetson pod,flintmobile, cruella de ville car, mystery machine ,snoopy, a team van, .....you get the idea :D
Yep
I use the belton all 4 one refills for my markers and in my airbrush i did my shotgun in the refill paint and it held up pretty good
I was in the middle of building a 1:24 Tamiya car model when I saw this video, I ordered the Molotow Liquid chrome ink refill to paint the metal sections and did so with a mix of 50/50 Mr Hobby’s levelling thinners and the LIquid chrome. The finish on the parts coated is beyond my expectations for the product, you don’t get how true to real chrome the finish is until they are side by side. I did a test on a artists paint brush, one with a chromed metal section holding the bristles in place, a friend couldn’t tell where the chrome ended ad the paint/ink began. 5 out of 5, 10 out of 10.
Wery nice, but do you think it gave you a better result than if you airbrushed it using Tamiya x 11 chrome silver thinned with the leveling thinner? Or maybe the super chrome silver 2 by mr hobby?
Looks great!! Gotta say this is the best method you've shown off yet for getting that chrome look.
I've been using the Molotow pens since they came out but never knew there were refills and so never considered airbrushing them. The chrome look with these pens is outstanding but trying to cover larger areas without buildup is tricky. Airbrushing with refills is the perfect answer..thanks!
Looks fantastic! I'd love to see a gas lands / mad max style version of this car
I had bought this paint a while back, but hadn't applied it yet as I hadn't found a good tutorial. Thank you very much for the great video!
That looks amazing. Well done, another stunning Hot Wheels customizing technique!
The marker is how I do my headlights, taillights, and turning signals. I hit the areas with the chrome marker, and then after it dries I use a extra fine point sharpie on taillights and signals. Also use it for door handles, locks and emblems. It's great for rechroming bumpers and rims too! I just bought a copper marker to try and revive a custom barracuda redline.
I'm amazed the clear coat didn't dull the Molotow chrome. I tried clear coating a chrome bumper on one of my models and it dulled it.
I believe there's another benefit in using that paint, it can be applied with a brush which is really difficult or even impossible with other paints like alclad II or MM metalizers. Loved the result looks a hundred times better than the chromed plastic that Mattel uses.
Using a brush with Molotow - unless the object you're painting is really small - is a bad idea.
Airbrushing is easier and gives a much better result! I've tried both, and using a brush it's almost impossible not to have brush marks.
That chrome looks great. Please update us if the chrome turns ugly or not down the road. Would like to apply this method to the plastic base of some 70's redlines like the torino stocker. Thanks for the videos and keep up the great work.
The chrome's just fine if allowed a good few days to cure, it only dulls if handled before total cure which the impatient (I include myself there lol) are likely to do
That finish looks amazing! Great stuff, very happy with the results. Another top notch painting vid.
Great result! but If you want a better mirror finish and shine, I recommend using Alclad II chrome with their gloss black base. I used their product a few times and the results are great especially on small projects like this one. Many people say it is hard to use but from my experience it is not that hard. Just spray the gloss black with /30/35 psi and spray in thick layers and you need a really smooth surface. With the Allclad II chrome it is the exact opposite, first a really thin layers and spray it at an angle!!!
What a wonderful methode! This one really shines, almost like metal.
Thank you for the demonstration. I took some paint from the pen n put it in a spoon for brush painting. I later found that it adhered to the bare plastic and could not be rubbed off with the fingers.
Were there streaks?
@@EdsHouse00 with careful application, no streaking on this small area.
Wow, that looks really good. I appreciate you making these videos. They always transport me back to the slow-moving, calmer days of the 70's. The first car/truck I remember having was a Baja Bruiser. I loved that thing. My mom bought it for me in the Sears store in Rapid City in 1974, I believe. I think she bought it to keep me from annoying her, lol. I think it would be fun to turn an actual full-sized truck into one.
Interesting method! The chrome spray cans work nicely, unless you touch it too much, or use clear coat, then it became just silver.
Precisa de primer? E qualquer marca de spray cromo serve?
@@robertoshigeeda1944 Há diversas marcas, a mais comum de ser encontrada é a Colorgin, o problema dessas latas é que o cromado não fica como na tampa, que é semelhante ás bases cromadas das miniaturas, parece mais um papel alumínio, até que reflete alguma coisa, mas como eu dise acima, a tinta queima ao toque, ficando prata até cinza, e se tentar usar veniz, ele se mistura com a tinta e causa o mesmo efeito. Se quiser algo melhor, existem kits químicos á venda.
Hi. I love your videos, especially how detailed oriented you are regarding your process. You are absolutely helping people learn the hobby in the best way possible. I was curious as to whether or not you had any comments (now several years later) regarding the finish of the chrome. I realize that you later did a mad max conversion to the Gru-Mobile, but was curious as specifically as to how the Spectraflame clear coat reacted with the chrome (if at all)? Thank you again for your great videos.
Wow! That really turned out nicely. Great work.
I always have Molotow Markers as paint markers. They do cover very well and the colors are very bright (Love the Poison Green), but I never used the Silver and Chrome ones, because i had some bad experiences in the past with silver markers (Before molotow) and didn't buy them since then. Just checked ArtPrimo channel who mada a graffiti on a model freight car using this Molotow chrome, and the result is just spectacular.
That's cool can you provide me a link?
I always wondered if Molotow chrome pen paint could be sprayed, good thinking and man it sure looks good, Nice job as usual. Thanks.
Thanks for this vid.
The best I’ve seen for this paint, especially how long to leave it to dry, harden off
Wow this REALLY opens up tons of possibilities for customs with chrome. I really need to get an airbrush. Awesome job! Thank you 😎👍🏻
I'm working on an old Toy Biz Silver Surfer 1/12 scale model kit, and this looks like it might give me the finish I want!
It’s good to know there is another clear Cote option for this paint. Just to give you some durability on this. I painted steel bumpers on a 1:10 rock crawler which I use to drive through the woods. Months later and many abusive drives it is still as shiny as when applied. You can check the truck out on my channel EPA Crawlers.
Thanks West that's actually really helpful I'm going to check it out
hi , can you show me video ?
Very nice result. Chrome plating plastic will change the dimensions and hide the details you like to preserve. Your method is good as you can control the quantity of paint applied like an artist.
Looks amazing!
That is a cool technique to make the hot wheels realistic!
Very nice. The result is better than I expected it would be -- more reflective.
BASS player here, thank you for sharing your experience, loads of info.
Awesome. I gotta try it with spectraflame paint on top
Can't wait to find out if the paint reacts in the coming months. Would be keen to try this!
Have you tried it? I just airbrushed 2 masquerade masks 4 days ago, and they turned out amazing!
This stuff really looks like chrome!! HOWEVER - 4 days later, I've been drying them in the sun - it's cool here at the moment under 20C - and the finish has gone a bit dull. I'm hoping this is just a transitional look, as I've heard Molotow takes a very long time to fully cure. It's now just a very bright almost matt silver in parts, while other parts are still shiny. I'm hoping it's the thick areas transitioning? I'm going to put them on my car windshield tomorrow to really dry them out for a few days and see if the shine comes back? Anybody else had this dulling effect after time? Does it go shiny once fully cured ?
That was an excellent idea and I will definitely have to try it out. I don't restore Hot Wheels but I do build semi truck models, and this looks like it could be a better alternative to Alclad for rechroming parts.
I would agree!
I’ve been airbrushing this stuff into chrome parts when restoring Transformer toys. I’ve found that thinning it with Mr Hobby levelling thinners does two things. First, makes is spray beautifully, far better than straight from the bottle. Second, the paint seems to cure harder and quicker, most likely because it’s not on so thick.
Thanks!! Will give it a try...
I've used the pens; never thought to use an airbrush. Great idea, will try on some wheels.
Wow, fancy backyard. Enjoyed the video as well -- amazing skill :)
Awesome job it really brings out a lot of the details better in my opinion
Those chrome pens are great. I use them a lot. You can go to hobby lobby. They sell them there.
That finish is amazing. Great stuff as always!
That came out incredible!
Perhaps try some weathering type black dust for around the engines?
Either way great job.
I'm glad you tried this! Very nice results dude! 👍👍
The end result is amazing, it looks like a full metal model now. I think this paint would work well with airplane model kits too.
I discovered the chrome pens myself and they are most definitely magic.
Wow!! Definitely gonna ab some of that.. love the pens, never thought about the refills
It looks amazing! It almost looks like polished stainless steel
Now that's a piece of Art
great result. i look forward to seeing this paint used in future projects
Looks good but I’m interested in how colored spectreflame is gonna react.
Well you won't have to wait long.....
well, i use this to detail headlights and the ink lays on fine..
This looks great! I always enjoy watching your videos!
nice , i was searching for cool chrome products ... best i found so far is VICROM chrome effect give it a try .is much much stronger than any chrome paint i tried so far , although molotow seems to work pretty good
May I give some tips when using this, I like to put a glossy black base with or without primer, then spray it. After I clear it with future floor shine or just no clear at all :)
Is there a difference?
That looks incredible.
FWIW… An alternative to masking with tape is to mask with rubber cement applied with a SMALL stiff artist’s paintbrush. It peels off cleanly after drying. Works great.
That is a beautiful finish I must remember this next time I need a chrome finish.. Cheers
Great video! Can you explain what you mean by "wetting the area" after spraying? Thanks!
Nice result!
And thank you for the cool stereograph video at the end!
Glad you like it!
I'd like to see how this held up, I used a chrome pen by the same manufacturer on a partially worn twin mill engine, after a while, it looks more like steel than the vacuum metalised chrome
I've had the same problem. As it dried 4 days later it looks a bit dull!! I'm going to keep drying it in the sun to see what happens.
Initially it's amazing!! Exactly like chrome!! I'm hoping it's a transitional effect. I've also had the same problem with Green Stuff World chrome. That is also alcohol based, and dulled as it dried.
Further to my previous comment. This morning it was a bright, though matt looking silver.
I've put it on my car windscreen in the sun again, and as it heats up it's bright chrome again!!
I'm hoping that when it's fully dry it will be like chrome?? I'll do a final update in a month!!
This looks fantastic and I'd like to try it for plastic airplane kits for that bare aluminum look.
It looks like it would be great for restoring original HW chrome Sizzlers.
Now we must see a gold version of this pain
That looks amazing! I love seeing your new tricks.
You should make a video talking about your painting equipment. What guns you use the psi needed for them weather or not you made or bought your paint booth. Do you have a separate shop setup or is this in your house, ventilation, ect ect
Awesome!
Chrome paint base coat? Endless possibilities!😎👍🏽
Impressive, that looks really good.
Cool chrome look Sir
Very interested to see this technique in future projects!
Can you give some details on the airbrush setup? Tips, air caps, needles etc? Air pressure?
That looks great! Now I have to get a Grumobile. I'd be interested to see you chrome a mottled bare metal hot wheel and then spectra flame to see if it will rescue a patchy casting?
Giving out his paint works I think it would do that just fine I'll give it a try
Nice finish I wonder if this paint will work well for larger projects.
It would but it would be rather expensive
This answered a few of my own questions. Thanks.
If you let it sit for around a month and harden it doesnt dull up as much when you touch it
Turned out really lovely
I cross the eyes in the end)) Nice! I like that you try something new, in your technics and videos)
I thought you tan only use it for graffitu and canvas. I love how much uses this paint has.
Hi. Very nice job. In your opinion: a couple of drops of spectraflame hardener y the liquid chrome could make the silver paint more resistent? Thank you. Keep uploading videos as greats as these.
So shiny. So chrome.
Wow, what a nice beautiful little Modell. Why do you close the Doorwindows?
I was testing the paint opacity... this was a test piece... something I could use to test out the paint. Its not a finished item.
I am curious how the paint has held up after three years.
I would definitely love to see elements of this car used in mad max builds
Curious if you could airbrush some Tamiya clear colored acrylic paints over the cured Molotow to create colored chrome effects.
that looks fantastic.
That turned out amazing
That would make an amazing base for Spectraflame colours!
Turned out great, must try this.
That little extra piece of tape that you forgot to snip off when you covered the decal triggered my OCD. LOL Nice video though, I want to use this paint for miniatures. :)
Crazy long cure time... I use Alclad II metal paints on my scale models and they dry and cure super fast and don't tear when removing masking tape etc, but in a pinch you can clearly use chrome pen inks!
I definitely think your crew mobile in the future should have more details about it
Yay new video. I always look forward to your uploads.
Good job. I see already have some Createx products. You must look into their silver and gold paints. Crazy shiny.
hi ! Nice video ! I have a problem finding the clear coat in Europe I manage to get some alclad varnish klear kote but very expensive . what is an alternative to coat it ?
You said that you had to wet the paint before putting on the clear coat. How do you do this? Do you just spray water from your airbrush then spray the clear coat? Thank you
Looks great! Would love to see this weathered on a mad max build maybe?
Great tech learned. Looks grear.
Looks good
It would be cool to see this paint on a vintage redline hot wheels.
What do you mean by "wet the paint"? I'm trying to paint a prop chrome but it's going to need to be handled A LOT and the clear coat needs to not crack when flexed.
Best Chrome paint I've ever seen. Too expensive for me tho.
nice to be able to get a great uniform metallic finish!
My Molotow pen tip dried up after using it only a few times. Im going to drain the paint into a dedicated paasche airbrush bottle. Kind of pissed me off because they're so expensive and the you say I got was maybe a couple parts on a model and I did put the cap on each and every time I used it.
Hey there, thanks for easing my concerns about airbrushing with Molotow. Now, you mentioned laquer thinner to clean the brush afterwards, which did you mean? Does kerosene for oil paints do the job? Thanks in advance.
That looks great! In the video it looks like it got even shinier when the clear was applied, would you say that's accurate?
I use the pens but this is awesome. today I will try out from the pen. Thank you for this idea and video.