Usually with chrome mirror paints you thin down with alcohol and put down 1 layer leave to dry for a few hours (24 I normally wait) then put down a second layer and you'll be able to see your face in the shine and also beware because any other paints will chip off extremely easy unless you place a varnish over the top afterwards.
One quick tip. If airbrushing with this stuff make sure to super duper clean your airbrush! It’s really REALLY hard to see if you’ve cleaned it out because it’s the same colour as the inside, the needle, the nozzle and the cup. In fact, this stuff actually makes your airbrush inside look cleaner than it was when you started. Haha. It’s so easy to THINK it’s clean…when it’s still caked in chrome paint.
@@ArtisOpus Guys, when do we tell @Artis Opus that these liquid chrome markers are zero-durability garbage? Should we dampen his excitement now or let him have his fun for a while and discover the awful truth later for himself?
@@anthonyflynn2662 No idea who that is. Never heard of him. I'm sure he's works are nice, but he clearly has very relaxed standards for paint durability to use these markers. P.S. I realize internet anonymity isn't conducive to that, but please take steps to be as polite to people online as you would be in person.
Adam Savage has used this on his channel and it's how I found out about the product. For the best finish it needs to be sprayed on wet, there's a very fine line between how you'd usually spray paint on with an airbrush, spraying it on wet and spraying too much and having it pool. There's also a very specific clear coat that is recommended by Adam to retain the mirror like finish as well but I can't remember the name. As for drying it may be dry after 48hrs but touching it will make it go dull. I also believe it is alcohol based and I've used isopropyl alcohol in the past for clean up. Edit: it's Alclad klear kote that was recommended to protect the chrome finish
Here's a Russian dude testing out 8(!) different clear coats on this. Spoiler alert, the winner is the Tamiya X-22 lacquer (thinned with the X-20): ruclips.net/video/HvCLDBADzH8/видео.html Here's a German dude having apparent success with the Alclad II ALC-310 Klear Kote: ruclips.net/video/Ak_0q1Pfzlw/видео.html However, it should be noted that it's only as sturdy as it's adhesion to the primer/undercoat. This caveat, for our intents and purposes, severely diminishes the product's usefulness.
All tips and tricks welcome, we'll copy the good ones below! Liquid Chrome: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-washes-etc/molotow Prankster's Bone Works: 1 wet coat of this works better than several light coats. the chrome effect is from the alcohol surface tension evaporating and leaving the pigments aligned. i spray it and leave it alone for a couple of days. it stays kinda gummy for 48 hours or so. if i had a dehydrator, i'd chuck it in that. likely someone has mentioned adam savage using alclad aqua gloss to seal it in. i just got some in the mail yesterday. i'd wait a week before you clear just to make absolutely sure it's cured. i'll find out this weekend after i do a small sample. i do know that even after a week, the valejo gloss clear makes it into a dull silver. i had to reprint a colossus bust because of that. it just wont come off. Nicholas kindred: When airbrushed you don't thin it. You need to get close & quick, it will look like you brushed. I have never had a problem. Greatly simulates the real chrome on cars. ramza813: molotov and 99% of Chrome paints are alcohol based. use Isoprop to clean airbrush! CatRaph: Molotow is the best chrome finish out there, but it´s very unforgiving. It is thinned with alcohol/laquer/enamel thinners. In an airbrush it should be applied in a single thick coat, making sure to never spray the same area twice or get overspray. The second it touches a surface it begins forming its signature finish. Agitating it in any way will make it lumpy and uneven, a second coat will dull it considerably. After it has cured it will still be very vulnerable to dulling from handling. There are top coats out there specifically to preserve metallic finishes on models, a light coat only dulls it a few percent and makes it handleable and lasting. It is not a difficult or time consuming paint to use, you just need to follow the rules of the paint to the letter. The finish is out of this world!
I just tagged yall on an instagram post i used this stuff for on a ctan shard I did a long time ago. The key is gloss black undercoat, airbrush with NO thinner, letting each layer cure, then letting the whole cure for a while after. (I think it actually reccomends a few days) The end result is this shiny "fake" chrome that resembles the decals on old toys from the 80's
i use straight 99% IPA for cleanup and thinning and it seems to work well. It can be very fussy about topcoats though, I;ve yet to find one that works well without dulling it and the finish does not like to be touched at all. Maybe it just needs more cure time
If you want the chrome finish you need a fully wet coat. Putting it through an airbrush (unthinned) is fine, but you need to apply a fully wet coat to get the effect you go with the brush. Go a lot heavier than you're used to going. As others have mentioned use IPA for clean up.
1.) THINNER: Mr. Thinner LEVELING 400 is a perfect thinner for it and can even be used at a higher ratio than the Molotow Chrome. Spray it thick though, but it adheres to anything. 2.) SEALER 1 To seal it, Alclad Klear Koate works, but I really recommend waiting a couple of days for it to dry in a dust free environment. 3.) SEALER 2 Put a candy coat on it after about 5 days of drying mixing. I recommend Pebeo Vitrail Transparents mixed with some odorless mineral spirits. You can make a candy chrome this way with fairly strong rub resistance. Let this coat dry for about a day as it takes a bit to dry.
I literally just used this pen on my bladed weapons on my Custodes 2 weeks ago. It does look like a pure chrome when brushed on by the felt pen itself. It does have a very long dry time. Finger prints will easily show if touched before the full cure time of +24 hours.
1 wet coat of this works better than several light coats. the chrome effect is from the alcohol surface tension evaporating and leaving the pigments aligned. i spray it and leave it alone for a couple of days. it stays kinda gummy for 48 hours or so. if i had a dehydrator, i'd chuck it in that. likely someone has mentioned adam savage using alclad aqua gloss to seal it in. i just got some in the mail yesterday. i'd wait a week before you clear just to make absolutely sure it's cured. i'll find out this weekend after i do a small sample. i do know that even after a week, the valejo gloss clear makes it into a dull silver. i had to reprint a colossus bust because of that. it just wont come off.
Marker refill paint is amazing for how quickly and flat the medium dries, and the variety of applications straight out of the bottle - perfect consistency for my airbrush. Right now my favorite primer for minis and terrain is Molotow's All4One Acrylic
Just wanted to note I watched 5 of your other videos and they were all amazing! So thanks for putting them up, glad I found you guys (and yes I subscribed!)
@@ArtisOpus I used it on some axes with raised patterns in the blade. Painted the entire surface with the Molotow Chrome Pen, then when that was dry I carefully filled in the ‘background’ with candy ink (I used GSW’s). That left me with the raised edges and the centre detail in Chrome and the background in a candy colour. The brown ink worked surprisingly well, the red one I found disappointing. The others as expected.
@@ArtisOpus Pebeo Vitrail transparents mixed with a bit of odorless mineral spirits works as a great candy. But wait 5 days for a thick molotow spray (mixed with Mr. Thinner Leveling 400) before you spray it over it. You keep almost the same level of mirrorness and it protects this otherwise weak paint.
i use the Molotow ONE4ALL refills in my airbrush all the time. The black makes a perfect primer and the white is perfect for a zenithal over the top. The silver goes over the black super nice as well. The black dries with a sort of satin finish
99% isopropyl alcohol mixed with molotow chrome through airbrush worked fine for me. Just a few passes and I got a very reflective surface. Definitely needs a while to completely dry.
I use Mirra-Chrome, which is for automotive applications (works great on minis). The higher gloss you can get your substrate, the higher gloss chrome you get as an end result. We were taught by the rep to apply via AB at a slight distance, lower pressure and in a circular motion (building up all over), slowly building the chrome up for the best results. And I'm pretty sure the Mirra-Chrome is alcohol based. Edit: And then I went to look at how much Mirra-Chrome costs nowadays, as I bought mine when they first brought it to market (06-07 IIRC)... Yeah, I did not pay that much for 4 oz.. Stuff is absolutely amazing tho for real chrome if you can get your hands on some.
Super interesting to see this as last year I invested in some of the pens as I had the idea of painting up a Stormcast army in this stuff, but I intended to use the pens only, no brush no Airbrush, literally just 'crayoned' on in my quest for simple, quick but effective paint jobs. I only did a test model which was OK at the time and then the project got overtaken by events. The pens don't allow for getting into the nooks and crannies but that just means I get some shadow in the recesses ;) This video may well be the kick I need to see this project through so thanks Byron :)
Molotow Liquid Chrome works best when you spray a wet/heavy layer from the airbrush or brush painted. If you want to varnish it without giving up the reflectivity then use Alclad II Aqua Gloss, wait till its fully cured before varnishing. Also of note is that the undercoat does not matter, you can get it super shiny even with a matte undercoat. Lastly make sure to varnish before using something like Tamiya X-27 otherwise you lose the reflectivity.
I got a fine tip molotow chrome pen recently and painted some minis visors and goggles. Shiniest thing ever. A quick splodge of blue contrast paint on them looks amazing.
I just use the fine-tip pen for everything, too. I sometimes go back in with a brush to move it around, but you do have to work FAST to catch it before it starts drying. I’ve had no trouble painting over to touch up mistakes.
Hey, I use this stuff via air brush all the time. 50% molotow 50% liquor thinner. The finish is mirror quality and better than brush on. Mixed better with the thinner than anything else I tried
ive tried it and it just looks like an extremely glossy marine, i feel like the more metallic paints with the larger flakes help alpha legion keep their metallic look better
@@jamesderwin of course man. I did use inks instead of Tamiya clear so the difference in surface may be a bit different, but I would assume it would still have close to the same effect. Alpha legion are amazing looking, but I’ll stick to my imperial fists since I can actually pull of a decent scheme haha.
I believe that Molotow Chrome is alcohol-based, unlike acrylic paints that are water-based, so thinning it with an alcohol seems to work best. I've used a little ethanol (aka Everclear), but you should be able to also use isopropyl, and you can also use alcohol to clean your brush. It is a bit tougher to work with than acrylic paints (e.g. a much longer drying and curing time of multiple hours, gets tacky quickly, must go on somewhat thick for shiniest result, easy to scuff the finish), but the mirror-like shine is totally worth it when you get used to its nuances. I've actually used this for a few years now on the bladed weapons and armor trim for my Idoneth Deepkin and Space Marines, and I couldn't be happier with how it looks. 😊
Seen multiple videos on this stuff, it's *extremely fussy*, drying time can vary from 48 hours to a full week, if not dry it will get fingertips easily, hydrophobic so paint might not stick well to it, if disturbed it will lose the shine and look like normal silver paint, if varnished same thing, seems like the only varnish i've heard that works with it is Alclad Klear Kote and even that will diminish the shiny a bit (worth it in my opinion as it will seal the effect), so i'd recommend getting a bottle. Please keep experimenting, wanna see further, more refined results, would be awesome seeing a full unit of minis or a vehicle all chrome and nice :D
I just received an order from you guys today. The S-Series brushes are a legitimate game-changer for me. They're incredibly soft, supple and come to a sharp point. My series 7 brushes are very much inferior by comparison
@@ArtisOpus so good, in fact, that after 30 mins of painting with them I went back to the site to get one of those new M+D 10 brush sets to complete the collection. All that and I forgot to add one of those 10ml brush conditioners. I'll have to save that for next time I suppose. Thanks for a quality product and all the helpful videos!
Molotow Premium (more of a satin finish) and the German Montana Gold series (more matt, can be a bit dusty if not shaken well enough) are my regular go-to alternatives to anything sold as an aerosol primer/basecoat for miniatures. The range of colors?!
@@fransaacs I'd agree about Montana Gold, it's not best suited for small detail models. I've only used Molotow's Fern Green for my Salamanders but their colour range is quite varied, definitely worth a look.
I use this stuff on car models. You don't need to thin it or spray it on a black base. I typically spray it over white or gray and some times black. The trick seems to be, spray fast and wet. Test on some plastic spoons so you can get used to spraying it.
I am Hong Kong SD Gunpla lover and often use Molotow Chrome with Full hand painting(My head protrait Gunpla is in full hand-painting including chrome serface). for your mistake counter, I can share some experience to explain why it happened and how to solve it: Mistake Counter 1 : Molotow Chrome is very sensitive if you painted on another base color, or painted clear color to mix gold color, For model color ONLY Tamiya color can avoid melt the chrome or melted by chrome(Whether which one the final result is chrome will be melted and lost the mirror reflection effect ) Mistake Counter 2 : For hand painting you need to paint very quickly, Molotow Chrome need 3-5 hours to be complete dry, but for raw dried it only takes 15-20 seconds. You need to add another color one by one until fill in all area ("Raw dried" means painted serfaces cannot touch but if you add color, new color cannot confused with raw dried area.)
could you conceivably use this like an oil wash, taking it off with an alcohol soaked cotton bud? might be some interesting effects in that, provided it would work...
Hi, loved the videos on the dirty down products! And the chrome looks great. However i was wondering if you could possibly do a video on painting Grey Knights in a dirty/ grim dark style.
Hey, Andy, we actually kind of have one, I just removed quite a lot of the dirty down (and it's an IK Armiger) - the theme would be very similar, though. I have struggled with grimdark, I always go off-piste (modest way of saying I can't follow instructions) and don't quite achieve what I wanted... I should definitely give it another go.
I wish, but if you wait about 5 days for it to dry then apply pebeo vitrail transparent yellow through an airbrush with a bit of odorless mineral spirits, you can make a chrome gold. Its the best chrome gold I've been able to make. Close second is using Alclad's candy golden yellow with a bit of odorless mineral spirits (its too pigmented imo to get right without thinning that way) in the same way. Spray them thickly.
I think Molotov is my fav brand for rattle cans paints, I has chrome paint pens for model cars tho too, it really good for paint them exhausts and stuff 🥰🐶
Wonder how good it would look on the trim of something like a Heldrake? Or even use it in between the trim on the panels to give like a broken mirror effect.
Molotow is now my goto for all base coating. I used the chrome for doing my Martian tripods for All Quiet on the Martian Front. I must have tried fifteen different elaborate schemes to make models chrome prior to that.
You should try out some lacquers from Alclad and the like -- they're the best for a mirror chrome. I think Greenstuff World even has some now. There's a bit of a technique to it to be aware of, though. With most like Alclad, etc. it's pre-thinned so you just use it straight from the bottle. The key is to use a high quality gloss black base (again, lacquers are the best here) and use a very light "misting" from the airbrush. The more coats you put on can have an inverse affect. Do that and you'll be able to see your reflection in the surface.
hey man i noticed your air compressor cycling on and off when you use it, i bought a 2nd a air compressor with a air tank and its dramatically better. :) might be something you find usefull
Thanks for the video, it's a pity I didn't see it before I made my own mistakes. In my case it was a flow improver....) But, in the end, after cleaning the airbrush a couple of times, I achieved success. Here is my recipe for happiness: 2 drops of 99% alcohol per 1 drop of molotov chrome. Then everything works as with ordinary paint, the main thing is not to pour. Drying time is approximately 1 hour. Btw, instead of using a primer, i took molotov all4one black refill - it has an outstanding finish surface with no grain. Good luck to everyone!
looks like you found something very interesting (and veeeeeery shiny!) I wonder if you could give it a nice nice colored tint with some translucent colors? thinking of tzeench or slaneesh armor...
I'm super happy that Element have started stocking molotow... However I'd much prefer to see the refills instock rather than the marker pens themselves. the refills are great for going through an airbrush, thin enough too go through my 0.2mm nozzle and have great coverage!
Chrome inks have been a thing in the graffiti community for a strong minute; Krink and Grog are two other popular products, the former being considered the originator. 'KR' the graffiti writer first developed his trademark homebrew (KR's ink) by combining aluminum powder with liquid solvents back in the early nineties in San Fransisco when the scene and it's supplies was more about a DIY approach to things and less a part of an international commercial juggernaut. The parallels between the development of graff and tabletop gaming are there if you look closely enough. Looking forward to seeing this - how will Molotow Liquid Chrome stack up next to Vallejo Metallics?
Thanks for the info, buddy! Initial impressions first, and then (when I am not completely uninformed) we'll look at more comparative stuff, hopefully while I use them correctly 😅
@@ArtisOpus You did really well all things considered. I've only ever used these types of products in the pen for the smallest of details. I suspect brush application might need to be similar to your broad-stroke-one-and-done approach to GW's contrasts. Regarding thinners, I've improvised with nail polish remover and lighter fluid when using enamels before now, not exactly a recommend but nod to a couple of alternatives. Great stuff, keep up the good work.
I like acetone for these type paints in the airbrush (here me out)). Yes acetone is very powerful but it flashes off fast not harming the plastic. I specifically use this with an alkyd varnish over chrome zenithal. I used other thinners and found they "swelled" the metallics underneath, acetone doesn't.
Without starting an argument about the company but I've used Green stuff world's chome, it's really good stuff, looks very similar to this product, I did not use it in an airbrush after it ravished an old brush 🤣
There's a RUclipsr who goes by the name of "Barbatos Rex" who practically built his channel around chrome paints. He has a really intuitive video on this and many other paints and money saving hobby tips and tricks. I highly recommend his videos if you're looking for an in depth dive into chrome paint or markers.
The liquid chrome is alcohol based so water is probably way too polar a solvent for it. Its most likely a mix of primary alcohols, try a little denatured alcohol as a diluent and or cleaning solvent. Failing that, I'd go for 50:50 butyl acetate and acetone for cleaning, try a little chrome with tamiya extra thin poly cement to see if that cleans it off a peice of scrap material (non plastic).
It does take a while to dry. Don’t touch it. Used it mostly on Gundam parts and Hot Wheels stuff. Don’t really think it’s for airbrush as you have to dilute it and it comes out partially atomized, so mostly it looks high silver. Best results directly from the pen! Don’t go back and forth in a painting motion, as it tends to streak or muddy the chrome effect. Luckily, they make them in a fat or fine point option, so you can do details or larger surfaces
You don't need to thin it for Airbrush usage, but you may need to use more than other paints for the full effect to appear. Test sprayed it on a few GK and now they are Chrome Knights
Can this product be wet-brushed (over brushed? I'm not sure what is called, basically dry brushing but without brushing off a lot of paint on a paper towel first)to good effect? I have a friend who is painting Grey knights and he wants them super shiny but he doesn't have an Airbrush
When painting with airbrush, you should do a gloss black base coat first before applying chrome. The more shiny the base, the more shiny the chrome. The more matt the base, the more matt the chrome will turn out.
My preferred option is the foaming cleaner you can get from Element Games elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/Airbrushes-accessories/accessories/aerosol-active-foaming-cleaner
I tryed it on some parts of 2 gundam models and a dock and let them sit for 24hrs and jesusnthe shine on them is insane almost looked like the kits had metal parts :D i ised it on some canvas's i alsonat some wana try airbrushing with it i just used the markers but sofar thay were impressive and you can use the paint markers for airbrush it works fine then the one4all refills made it more simple to use with brush painting and airbrush :)
I push Molotow straight through my airbrush un-thinned with my 0.5 nozzle. Spray on relatively 'wet' coat then leave it alone for 48 hours. Alclad gloss clear over top to strengthen and not loose the shine. Cheers!
Did not think it'd work that great with a brush! I have seen it used with an airbrush before, but that did turn out chromey, as "it should" not cloudy at all. I know it was mentioned already, but the paint is alcohol based, so normal thinner is a no no^^ Just re'watched another video. For airbrushing, you need to use a heavy coat. Not a thin/misty one. Would love to see some more paint tests. More Molotow would be amazing, or chrome from other brands. GSW, AK, Alclad and so (:
Molotow is the best chrome finish out there, but it´s very unforgiving. It is thinned with alcohol/laquer/enamel thinners. In an airbrush it should be applied in a single thick coat, making sure to never spray the same area twice or get overspray. The second it touches a surface it begins forming its signature finish. Agitating it in any way will make it lumpy and uneven, a second coat will dull it considerably. After it has cured it will still be very vulnerable to dulling from handling. There are top coats out there specifically to preserve metallic finishes on models, a light coat only dulls it a few percent and makes it handleable and lasting. It is not a difficult or time consuming paint to use, you just need to follow the rules of the paint to the letter. The finish is out of this world!
I was going to suggest that! I’d like to see a series on the culture hustle acrylic line too, I bought my brother some of the pigments to paint with (pictures not minis) and they are insanely vibrant.
That paint is god tier. I’ve only the last few months been using chrome and it definitely has a learning curve. I’ve found it works best on small details guns,swords,etc. What I’ve found from using it is that you NEED to clean your brush with alcohol or it kills the brush and definitely don’t touch it for a couple of days as it marks very easily. But the results are amazing. I definitely ruined a few minis when I first used it. But it’s so T1000. Great vid.
I used my Molotow chrome pen under some GW air clears, brushed on, and GW contrast paints to create realistic looking Christmas ornaments. Then I just brushed on some GW 'ard coat and it came out looking fantastic. I would love to see you experiment more with this product.
The bad side of this paint, is that the mirror effect wont las if you handle them often. And the gloss top coat will kill the effect. Still looks cool, but not as amazing. I have been using it for years on my gundams.
Honestly? I love this and the other experimenting videos. Your other stuff is like a series of robotic tutorials that, don't take this the wrong way, make you seem like some sort of machine. These videos make you seem more like a person? That's probably a weird comment but the short version is I like this video.
@@ArtisOpus honestly I love the idea of you testing out new ideas and just having fun with it. I know a lot of your audience is really into the "Hello *HAND* here's how to paint a space marine entirely with dry brushing" videos, so I dunno. Something in the middle? Not sure exactly what that would look like.
Should be able to thin with alcohol, as their website says it's alcohol based. They have broken video for airbrush instructions. Maybe shoot them an email, find out more, get samples. Then find a cool use case.
Yeah, I use that for the bright layer on my Alpha Legion marines and it’s perfect for the job. I’m tempted to try this one out for a Grey Knights kill team thoigh
I tried so many of the chomes, acrylics, alcohol based and solvent based, molotow is pretty good, that and the new super chrome from ak interactiv is pretty simular. But the molotow is best with brush and the super chrome is best with airbrush. But the best chrome is from greenstuffworld, they make one for brush and one for airbrush and they are not the same. But that is the best one, it takes shading and stuff best without the shine getting messed with. Like oilwashes and stuff. Check out Barbatos Rex RUclips channel for a look at all the chome paints, he has done a bunch of tests, even more than me, and he filmed them😁
Soooo... my question then is... do the graffiti markers have a tip that you could use to apply it directly to a model from the pin, or do you HAVE to do it in brush/airbrush format?
@@septymesk7721 if you buy the marker and not the refill, the marker has a felt-tip that you can use. But its better control with a brush, and it can be thinned and cleaned with iso alcohol
@@komma8203 thanks, appreciate it! I recently tried out some Gundam markers on my tau stuff for lining, etc and I really like how it works; was wondering if this could be my next move lol
@@septymesk7721 i have done wepons and stuff like that on miniatures with the molotow chrome marker, worked just fine, its just that i have more control with a brush than i feel i have with the marker
Alclad or greenstuff world airbrush is the best for general semi strong chrome, but it tends to be darker in comparison and doesnt make for good candies. It is a superior stand alone chrome though, but requires a very smooth black gloss undercoat.
When airbrushed you don't thin it. You need to get close & quick, it will look like you brushed. I have never had a problem. Greatly simulates the real chrome on cars.
Usually with chrome mirror paints you thin down with alcohol and put down 1 layer leave to dry for a few hours (24 I normally wait) then put down a second layer and you'll be able to see your face in the shine and also beware because any other paints will chip off extremely easy unless you place a varnish over the top afterwards.
Which varnish would you recommend?
One quick tip. If airbrushing with this stuff make sure to super duper clean your airbrush! It’s really REALLY hard to see if you’ve cleaned it out because it’s the same colour as the inside, the needle, the nozzle and the cup. In fact, this stuff actually makes your airbrush inside look cleaner than it was when you started. Haha. It’s so easy to THINK it’s clean…when it’s still caked in chrome paint.
This is super good feedback!
@@ArtisOpus
Guys, when do we tell @Artis Opus that these liquid chrome markers are zero-durability garbage? Should we dampen his excitement now or let him have his fun for a while and discover the awful truth later for himself?
@@IllusionSectornow try tell marco frisoni who has used these pens as metallic paint for years and watch your self cry
@@anthonyflynn2662
No idea who that is. Never heard of him. I'm sure he's works are nice, but he clearly has very relaxed standards for paint durability to use these markers.
P.S. I realize internet anonymity isn't conducive to that, but please take steps to be as polite to people online as you would be in person.
Adam Savage has used this on his channel and it's how I found out about the product.
For the best finish it needs to be sprayed on wet, there's a very fine line between how you'd usually spray paint on with an airbrush, spraying it on wet and spraying too much and having it pool.
There's also a very specific clear coat that is recommended by Adam to retain the mirror like finish as well but I can't remember the name.
As for drying it may be dry after 48hrs but touching it will make it go dull.
I also believe it is alcohol based and I've used isopropyl alcohol in the past for clean up.
Edit: it's Alclad klear kote that was recommended to protect the chrome finish
Here's a Russian dude testing out 8(!) different clear coats on this. Spoiler alert, the winner is the Tamiya X-22 lacquer (thinned with the X-20): ruclips.net/video/HvCLDBADzH8/видео.html
Here's a German dude having apparent success with the Alclad II ALC-310 Klear Kote: ruclips.net/video/Ak_0q1Pfzlw/видео.html
However, it should be noted that it's only as sturdy as it's adhesion to the primer/undercoat. This caveat, for our intents and purposes, severely diminishes the product's usefulness.
All tips and tricks welcome, we'll copy the good ones below!
Liquid Chrome: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-washes-etc/molotow
Prankster's Bone Works:
1 wet coat of this works better than several light coats. the chrome effect is from the alcohol surface tension evaporating and leaving the pigments aligned. i spray it and leave it alone for a couple of days. it stays kinda gummy for 48 hours or so. if i had a dehydrator, i'd chuck it in that. likely someone has mentioned adam savage using alclad aqua gloss to seal it in. i just got some in the mail yesterday. i'd wait a week before you clear just to make absolutely sure it's cured. i'll find out this weekend after i do a small sample.
i do know that even after a week, the valejo gloss clear makes it into a dull silver. i had to reprint a colossus bust because of that. it just wont come off.
Nicholas kindred:
When airbrushed you don't thin it. You need to get close & quick, it will look like you brushed. I have never had a problem. Greatly simulates the real chrome on cars.
ramza813:
molotov and 99% of Chrome paints are alcohol based. use Isoprop to clean airbrush!
CatRaph:
Molotow is the best chrome finish out there, but it´s very unforgiving. It is thinned with alcohol/laquer/enamel thinners. In an airbrush it should be applied in a single thick coat, making sure to never spray the same area twice or get overspray. The second it touches a surface it begins forming its signature finish. Agitating it in any way will make it lumpy and uneven, a second coat will dull it considerably. After it has cured it will still be very vulnerable to dulling from handling. There are top coats out there specifically to preserve metallic finishes on models, a light coat only dulls it a few percent and makes it handleable and lasting.
It is not a difficult or time consuming paint to use, you just need to follow the rules of the paint to the letter. The finish is out of this world!
I just tagged yall on an instagram post i used this stuff for on a ctan shard I did a long time ago.
The key is gloss black undercoat, airbrush with NO thinner, letting each layer cure, then letting the whole cure for a while after. (I think it actually reccomends a few days)
The end result is this shiny "fake" chrome that resembles the decals on old toys from the 80's
i use straight 99% IPA for cleanup and thinning and it seems to work well. It can be very fussy about topcoats though, I;ve yet to find one that works well without dulling it and the finish does not like to be touched at all. Maybe it just needs more cure time
I'm new here but i have to ask, is that a face on the right hand side of the screen? It looks so much like one
If you want the chrome finish you need a fully wet coat. Putting it through an airbrush (unthinned) is fine, but you need to apply a fully wet coat to get the effect you go with the brush. Go a lot heavier than you're used to going.
As others have mentioned use IPA for clean up.
I really like acrylic pens for edge highlighting on anything with a hard, straight edge. It's made painting Tau battlesuits much faster.
1.) THINNER: Mr. Thinner LEVELING 400 is a perfect thinner for it and can even be used at a higher ratio than the Molotow Chrome. Spray it thick though, but it adheres to anything.
2.) SEALER 1 To seal it, Alclad Klear Koate works, but I really recommend waiting a couple of days for it to dry in a dust free environment.
3.) SEALER 2 Put a candy coat on it after about 5 days of drying mixing. I recommend Pebeo Vitrail Transparents mixed with some odorless mineral spirits. You can make a candy chrome this way with fairly strong rub resistance. Let this coat dry for about a day as it takes a bit to dry.
I literally just used this pen on my bladed weapons on my Custodes 2 weeks ago. It does look like a pure chrome when brushed on by the felt pen itself. It does have a very long dry time. Finger prints will easily show if touched before the full cure time of +24 hours.
1 wet coat of this works better than several light coats. the chrome effect is from the alcohol surface tension evaporating and leaving the pigments aligned. i spray it and leave it alone for a couple of days. it stays kinda gummy for 48 hours or so. if i had a dehydrator, i'd chuck it in that. likely someone has mentioned adam savage using alclad aqua gloss to seal it in. i just got some in the mail yesterday. i'd wait a week before you clear just to make absolutely sure it's cured. i'll find out this weekend after i do a small sample.
i do know that even after a week, the valejo gloss clear makes it into a dull silver. i had to reprint a colossus bust because of that. it just wont come off.
also, ipa for a thinner and cleanup.
You sir, are a font of information, I'm copying this into the pinned comment, thank you!
Marker refill paint is amazing for how quickly and flat the medium dries, and the variety of applications straight out of the bottle - perfect consistency for my airbrush. Right now my favorite primer for minis and terrain is Molotow's All4One Acrylic
Just wanted to note I watched 5 of your other videos and they were all amazing! So thanks for putting them up, glad I found you guys (and yes I subscribed!)
It's an awesome product. AND you can mix it with Green Stuff World pure metal pigments to get the shinyest gold you can imagine.
Oooo interesting, I have got to try this out. Never heard of this idea.
Ha nice! I was thinking about this while watching the video
I have two of their pens and use it for details on minis. It is a great layer under candy inks.
Oh wow, this sounds like some secret-tech, any further tips?
@@ArtisOpus I used it on some axes with raised patterns in the blade. Painted the entire surface with the Molotow Chrome Pen, then when that was dry I carefully filled in the ‘background’ with candy ink (I used GSW’s). That left me with the raised edges and the centre detail in Chrome and the background in a candy colour. The brown ink worked surprisingly well, the red one I found disappointing. The others as expected.
@@ArtisOpus Pebeo Vitrail transparents mixed with a bit of odorless mineral spirits works as a great candy. But wait 5 days for a thick molotow spray (mixed with Mr. Thinner Leveling 400) before you spray it over it. You keep almost the same level of mirrorness and it protects this otherwise weak paint.
i use the Molotow ONE4ALL refills in my airbrush all the time. The black makes a perfect primer and the white is perfect for a zenithal over the top.
The silver goes over the black super nice as well. The black dries with a sort of satin finish
I use them for model kits art makeing camo or custom gun painting :)
I'd love to see what its like if you put inks or contrasts over the top and see what kind of candy metalics you can get
There's a few peeps in the comments talking about this... and tinting the paint itself, it seems there's a lot of possibilities!
99% isopropyl alcohol mixed with molotow chrome through airbrush worked fine for me. Just a few passes and I got a very reflective surface. Definitely needs a while to completely dry.
Thanks man, my brushed-on one is now like diamond-coat, it's absolutely solid, took a good while, though.
this video is golden... for the cursing and excitement over shiny paint alone.
you can tell I like shiny things 👀👀
I use Mirra-Chrome, which is for automotive applications (works great on minis). The higher gloss you can get your substrate, the higher gloss chrome you get as an end result. We were taught by the rep to apply via AB at a slight distance, lower pressure and in a circular motion (building up all over), slowly building the chrome up for the best results. And I'm pretty sure the Mirra-Chrome is alcohol based.
Edit: And then I went to look at how much Mirra-Chrome costs nowadays, as I bought mine when they first brought it to market (06-07 IIRC)... Yeah, I did not pay that much for 4 oz.. Stuff is absolutely amazing tho for real chrome if you can get your hands on some.
I love the liquid chrome--it's hard to resist putting it everywhere. Looking forward to seeing how you use it.
I can absolutely see why 😀
I use the color as a highlight together with AK true metal, works very well.
looking forward to the follow up video on this.
Me too, we just need to find the perfect mini to make as shiny as we possibly can!
Super interesting to see this as last year I invested in some of the pens as I had the idea of painting up a Stormcast army in this stuff, but I intended to use the pens only, no brush no Airbrush, literally just 'crayoned' on in my quest for simple, quick but effective paint jobs. I only did a test model which was OK at the time and then the project got overtaken by events. The pens don't allow for getting into the nooks and crannies but that just means I get some shadow in the recesses ;)
This video may well be the kick I need to see this project through so thanks Byron :)
Molotow Liquid Chrome works best when you spray a wet/heavy layer from the airbrush or brush painted. If you want to varnish it without giving up the reflectivity then use Alclad II Aqua Gloss, wait till its fully cured before varnishing. Also of note is that the undercoat does not matter, you can get it super shiny even with a matte undercoat. Lastly make sure to varnish before using something like Tamiya X-27 otherwise you lose the reflectivity.
I got a fine tip molotow chrome pen recently and painted some minis visors and goggles. Shiniest thing ever. A quick splodge of blue contrast paint on them looks amazing.
I just use the fine-tip pen for everything, too. I sometimes go back in with a brush to move it around, but you do have to work FAST to catch it before it starts drying. I’ve had no trouble painting over to touch up mistakes.
Hey, I use this stuff via air brush all the time. 50% molotow 50% liquor thinner. The finish is mirror quality and better than brush on. Mixed better with the thinner than anything else I tried
Would love to see an alpha legion scheme comparison with Tamiya clears over maybe Vallejo liquid chrome
ive tried it and it just looks like an extremely glossy marine, i feel like the more metallic paints with the larger flakes help alpha legion keep their metallic look better
@@calebnordmeyer4131 thanks for the tip Caleb
@@jamesderwin of course man. I did use inks instead of Tamiya clear so the difference in surface may be a bit different, but I would assume it would still have close to the same effect. Alpha legion are amazing looking, but I’ll stick to my imperial fists since I can actually pull of a decent scheme haha.
@@calebnordmeyer4131 oh ok. The colour layer does make a huge difference, so worth an experiment still!
Byron “ the magpie “ he love shiny things 😂😂😂 great tutorial 👍 I use the Molotov for black undercoat it’s awesome
I really do🤣will be trying the Molotov primer soon, lots of people mentioned it
I believe that Molotow Chrome is alcohol-based, unlike acrylic paints that are water-based, so thinning it with an alcohol seems to work best. I've used a little ethanol (aka Everclear), but you should be able to also use isopropyl, and you can also use alcohol to clean your brush. It is a bit tougher to work with than acrylic paints (e.g. a much longer drying and curing time of multiple hours, gets tacky quickly, must go on somewhat thick for shiniest result, easy to scuff the finish), but the mirror-like shine is totally worth it when you get used to its nuances. I've actually used this for a few years now on the bladed weapons and armor trim for my Idoneth Deepkin and Space Marines, and I couldn't be happier with how it looks. 😊
Seen multiple videos on this stuff, it's *extremely fussy*, drying time can vary from 48 hours to a full week, if not dry it will get fingertips easily, hydrophobic so paint might not stick well to it, if disturbed it will lose the shine and look like normal silver paint, if varnished same thing, seems like the only varnish i've heard that works with it is Alclad Klear Kote and even that will diminish the shiny a bit (worth it in my opinion as it will seal the effect), so i'd recommend getting a bottle.
Please keep experimenting, wanna see further, more refined results, would be awesome seeing a full unit of minis or a vehicle all chrome and nice :D
Great review…seems like a winner!
I just received an order from you guys today. The S-Series brushes are a legitimate game-changer for me. They're incredibly soft, supple and come to a sharp point. My series 7 brushes are very much inferior by comparison
Thanks for your kind words, Jason! We hope they become go-to hobby wingmen!
@@ArtisOpus so good, in fact, that after 30 mins of painting with them I went back to the site to get one of those new M+D 10 brush sets to complete the collection. All that and I forgot to add one of those 10ml brush conditioners. I'll have to save that for next time I suppose. Thanks for a quality product and all the helpful videos!
I use molotow aqua ink and aqua brush pens to do edge highlighting. They are amazing.
I'll have to give it a test too!
Have you tried the Burner Chrome rattle cans? It's the same molotow chrome but in spray version.
I'd never even heard of them! Thanks, dude :)
I've been using Molotow's Premium spray paint for my Salamanders, works great on plastic models and over regular basecoats and is highly pigmented.
Molotow Premium (more of a satin finish) and the German Montana Gold series (more matt, can be a bit dusty if not shaken well enough) are my regular go-to alternatives to anything sold as an aerosol primer/basecoat for miniatures. The range of colors?!
@@fransaacs I'd agree about Montana Gold, it's not best suited for small detail models. I've only used Molotow's Fern Green for my Salamanders but their colour range is quite varied, definitely worth a look.
I use this stuff on car models. You don't need to thin it or spray it on a black base. I typically spray it over white or gray and some times black. The trick seems to be, spray fast and wet. Test on some plastic spoons so you can get used to spraying it.
I am Hong Kong SD Gunpla lover and often use Molotow Chrome with Full hand painting(My head protrait Gunpla is in full hand-painting including chrome serface). for your mistake counter, I can share some experience to explain why it happened and how to solve it:
Mistake Counter 1 : Molotow Chrome is very sensitive if you painted on another base color, or painted clear color to mix gold color, For model color ONLY Tamiya color can avoid melt the chrome or melted by chrome(Whether which one the final result is chrome will be melted and lost the mirror reflection effect )
Mistake Counter 2 : For hand painting you need to paint very quickly, Molotow Chrome need 3-5 hours to be complete dry, but for raw dried it only takes 15-20 seconds. You need to add another color one by one until fill in all area ("Raw dried" means painted serfaces cannot touch but if you add color, new color cannot confused with raw dried area.)
could you conceivably use this like an oil wash, taking it off with an alcohol soaked cotton bud? might be some interesting effects in that, provided it would work...
There's no reason it shouldn't...
The dirty down rust vertigre and moss where all awesome this seems awesome too I’m curious how it’ll work with speed paints/contrast over it .
Would love to see this compared to Culture Hustle's Mirror paint.
Hi, loved the videos on the dirty down products! And the chrome looks great. However i was wondering if you could possibly do a video on painting Grey Knights in a dirty/ grim dark style.
Hey, Andy, we actually kind of have one, I just removed quite a lot of the dirty down (and it's an IK Armiger) - the theme would be very similar, though.
I have struggled with grimdark, I always go off-piste (modest way of saying I can't follow instructions) and don't quite achieve what I wanted... I should definitely give it another go.
@@ArtisOpus brilliant thanks, I'll give it a look. Love you videos. Just saving to get myself a set of your D series brush
Do they do this in gold Byron? If they do and its as good as this chrome, I might have an Imperial Knight that would benefit from it.
their rattle can has a c3po gold.
I wish, but if you wait about 5 days for it to dry then apply pebeo vitrail transparent yellow through an airbrush with a bit of odorless mineral spirits, you can make a chrome gold. Its the best chrome gold I've been able to make. Close second is using Alclad's candy golden yellow with a bit of odorless mineral spirits (its too pigmented imo to get right without thinning that way) in the same way. Spray them thickly.
I think Molotov is my fav brand for rattle cans paints, I has chrome paint pens for model cars tho too, it really good for paint them exhausts and stuff 🥰🐶
Man that's some awesome silver. But how does it go with a drybrush? I supposed it doesn't sound like it would work that well given the tackyness?
I don't think so man, maybe if you thinned with alcohol... but that'd increase the drying speed
Awesome stuff as always, I'd love to see your impressions of Turbodork paints, I love them personally but would love to hear your thoughts...
Been using this for the blades of power weapons, it pops!
Wonder how good it would look on the trim of something like a Heldrake? Or even use it in between the trim on the panels to give like a broken mirror effect.
Molotow is now my goto for all base coating. I used the chrome for doing my Martian tripods for All Quiet on the Martian Front. I must have tried fifteen different elaborate schemes to make models chrome prior to that.
I love Molotow markers I just wish there were more airbrush and pincel tutorials on how to use their matt inks. Congrats 👏
Thanks for the vid Byron, have you tried opal or mother of pearl effect paints?
experiment with some iridescent and interference paints (Golden brand from the art shop ) with a touch of silver over a black base.
Wow, fascinating
Right?! All these new funky products have an entire journey of discovery to go with them... if only there were more hours in the day :)
Can you maybe make a tutorial on how to drybrush grey power armour?
Interesting, grey-grey, not like space wolves?
@@ArtisOpus yes a pure grey-grey like the red scorpions or the carcaradons
You should try out some lacquers from Alclad and the like -- they're the best for a mirror chrome. I think Greenstuff World even has some now. There's a bit of a technique to it to be aware of, though. With most like Alclad, etc. it's pre-thinned so you just use it straight from the bottle. The key is to use a high quality gloss black base (again, lacquers are the best here) and use a very light "misting" from the airbrush. The more coats you put on can have an inverse affect. Do that and you'll be able to see your reflection in the surface.
Byron a goodest boy! 🥰❤️🐶👊👌
hey man i noticed your air compressor cycling on and off when you use it, i bought a 2nd a air compressor with a air tank and its dramatically better. :) might be something you find usefull
Hey bud, thanks for the tip! I think the main issue is my ancient hose... which may have had chair legs on it 100s of times :D
Sounds like a good excuse to get a new compresser and hose then :D
@Artis Opus yes a grey-grey like the red scorpions chapter or the space sharks
You're such a tease, Byron! 2 days to go!
;)
Thanks for the video, it's a pity I didn't see it before I made my own mistakes. In my case it was a flow improver....) But, in the end, after cleaning the airbrush a couple of times, I achieved success. Here is my recipe for happiness: 2 drops of 99% alcohol per 1 drop of molotov chrome. Then everything works as with ordinary paint, the main thing is not to pour. Drying time is approximately 1 hour. Btw, instead of using a primer, i took molotov all4one black refill - it has an outstanding finish surface with no grain. Good luck to everyone!
Informative, Very helpful info. Subbed.
Awesome, thank you buddy😊
This looks perfect for how I imagine Grey Knights look.
looks like you found something very interesting (and veeeeeery shiny!) I wonder if you could give it a nice nice colored tint with some translucent colors? thinking of tzeench or slaneesh armor...
I'm super happy that Element have started stocking molotow... However I'd much prefer to see the refills instock rather than the marker pens themselves. the refills are great for going through an airbrush, thin enough too go through my 0.2mm nozzle and have great coverage!
Chrome and shiny in the halls of valhalla!
Witness it!
Chrome inks have been a thing in the graffiti community for a strong minute; Krink and Grog are two other popular products, the former being considered the originator. 'KR' the graffiti writer first developed his trademark homebrew (KR's ink) by combining aluminum powder with liquid solvents back in the early nineties in San Fransisco when the scene and it's supplies was more about a DIY approach to things and less a part of an international commercial juggernaut. The parallels between the development of graff and tabletop gaming are there if you look closely enough. Looking forward to seeing this - how will Molotow Liquid Chrome stack up next to Vallejo Metallics?
Thanks for the info, buddy! Initial impressions first, and then (when I am not completely uninformed) we'll look at more comparative stuff, hopefully while I use them correctly 😅
@@ArtisOpus You did really well all things considered. I've only ever used these types of products in the pen for the smallest of details. I suspect brush application might need to be similar to your broad-stroke-one-and-done approach to GW's contrasts. Regarding thinners, I've improvised with nail polish remover and lighter fluid when using enamels before now, not exactly a recommend but nod to a couple of alternatives. Great stuff, keep up the good work.
I like acetone for these type paints in the airbrush (here me out)). Yes acetone is very powerful but it flashes off fast not harming the plastic. I specifically use this with an alkyd varnish over chrome zenithal. I used other thinners and found they "swelled" the metallics underneath, acetone doesn't.
Without starting an argument about the company but I've used Green stuff world's chome, it's really good stuff, looks very similar to this product, I did not use it in an airbrush after it ravished an old brush 🤣
Cheers mate, definitely worth giving a go!
Its the same (their non-arbrush one that is, that actually works great airbrushed like molotow)
There's a RUclipsr who goes by the name of "Barbatos Rex" who practically built his channel around chrome paints. He has a really intuitive video on this and many other paints and money saving hobby tips and tricks.
I highly recommend his videos if you're looking for an in depth dive into chrome paint or markers.
The liquid chrome is alcohol based so water is probably way too polar a solvent for it.
Its most likely a mix of primary alcohols, try a little denatured alcohol as a diluent and or cleaning solvent.
Failing that, I'd go for 50:50 butyl acetate and acetone for cleaning, try a little chrome with tamiya extra thin poly cement to see if that cleans it off a peice of scrap material (non plastic).
It does take a while to dry. Don’t touch it. Used it mostly on Gundam parts and Hot Wheels stuff. Don’t really think it’s for airbrush as you have to dilute it and it comes out partially atomized, so mostly it looks high silver.
Best results directly from the pen! Don’t go back and forth in a painting motion, as it tends to streak or muddy the chrome effect. Luckily, they make them in a fat or fine point option, so you can do details or larger surfaces
You don't need to thin it for Airbrush usage, but you may need to use more than other paints for the full effect to appear. Test sprayed it on a few GK and now they are Chrome Knights
I used Iso alcohol to thin it and sprayed it over gloss black and came out like a mirror on my Necrons
Can this product be wet-brushed (over brushed? I'm not sure what is called, basically dry brushing but without brushing off a lot of paint on a paper towel first)to good effect? I have a friend who is painting Grey knights and he wants them super shiny but he doesn't have an Airbrush
Alclad chrome metal takes lacquer thinner, misted (not shot) over a smooth black prime surface
When painting with airbrush, you should do a gloss black base coat first before applying chrome. The more shiny the base, the more shiny the chrome. The more matt the base, the more matt the chrome will turn out.
Can this paint be mixed with other paints?
This is a good question, apparently it can be tinted with GSW products, which definitely sounds interesting!
@@ArtisOpus Which GSW products are you referring to?
Whats Thats cleaning spray can?
My preferred option is the foaming cleaner you can get from Element Games elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/Airbrushes-accessories/accessories/aerosol-active-foaming-cleaner
Have you tried Culture Hustle’s “Silveriest Silver”?
We have not, dude, what's it like? Let us know in another comment: YT is bad for ongoing conversation notifications.
I tryed it on some parts of 2 gundam models and a dock and let them sit for 24hrs and jesusnthe shine on them is insane almost looked like the kits had metal parts :D i ised it on some canvas's i alsonat some wana try airbrushing with it i just used the markers but sofar thay were impressive and you can use the paint markers for airbrush it works fine then the one4all refills made it more simple to use with brush painting and airbrush :)
Thanks for the info dude, we're definitely going to play more in the future! Sounds like there's plenty of applications!
I think this goes on well with a low PSI - you get a similar mirror finish to a brush
The higher the PSI the more it atomises
I push Molotow straight through my airbrush un-thinned with my 0.5 nozzle. Spray on relatively 'wet' coat then leave it alone for 48 hours. Alclad gloss clear over top to strengthen and not loose the shine. Cheers!
Did not think it'd work that great with a brush! I have seen it used with an airbrush before, but that did turn out chromey, as "it should" not cloudy at all.
I know it was mentioned already, but the paint is alcohol based, so normal thinner is a no no^^
Just re'watched another video. For airbrushing, you need to use a heavy coat. Not a thin/misty one.
Would love to see some more paint tests. More Molotow would be amazing, or chrome from other brands. GSW, AK, Alclad and so (:
doesn't this stuff clean up with iso alchohol?
Yeah buddy, it should.
I want to use this to painteth a Silver Surfer fig!
Molotow is the best chrome finish out there, but it´s very unforgiving. It is thinned with alcohol/laquer/enamel thinners. In an airbrush it should be applied in a single thick coat, making sure to never spray the same area twice or get overspray. The second it touches a surface it begins forming its signature finish. Agitating it in any way will make it lumpy and uneven, a second coat will dull it considerably. After it has cured it will still be very vulnerable to dulling from handling. There are top coats out there specifically to preserve metallic finishes on models, a light coat only dulls it a few percent and makes it handleable and lasting.
It is not a difficult or time consuming paint to use, you just need to follow the rules of the paint to the letter. The finish is out of this world!
**Thanks CatRaph, copies, goes and adds to pinned comment** :)
Check Culture Hustle's Liquid Mirror Paint
I was going to suggest that! I’d like to see a series on the culture hustle acrylic line too, I bought my brother some of the pigments to paint with (pictures not minis) and they are insanely vibrant.
you're not the first to talk about this, will have to check it😊
That paint is god tier. I’ve only the last few months been using chrome and it definitely has a learning curve. I’ve found it works best on small details guns,swords,etc. What I’ve found from using it is that you NEED to clean your brush with alcohol or it kills the brush and definitely don’t touch it for a couple of days as it marks very easily. But the results are amazing. I definitely ruined a few minis when I first used it. But it’s so T1000. Great vid.
I used my Molotow chrome pen under some GW air clears, brushed on, and GW contrast paints to create realistic looking Christmas ornaments. Then I just brushed on some GW 'ard coat and it came out looking fantastic. I would love to see you experiment more with this product.
O_o, this does sound interesting, it seems a finishing step to keep it shiny is definitely very important, by the sounds of things.
Ohhh please, is there a gold? Still haven't painted my Sanguinius model yet. And I'm thinking that would be OMFG!!!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
да
The bad side of this paint, is that the mirror effect wont las if you handle them often.
And the gloss top coat will kill the effect.
Still looks cool, but not as amazing.
I have been using it for years on my gundams.
Honestly? I love this and the other experimenting videos. Your other stuff is like a series of robotic tutorials that, don't take this the wrong way, make you seem like some sort of machine. These videos make you seem more like a person? That's probably a weird comment but the short version is I like this video.
👀👀👀👀👀🤣Maybe we can manage a hybrid tutorial some day, suggestions?
@@ArtisOpus honestly I love the idea of you testing out new ideas and just having fun with it. I know a lot of your audience is really into the "Hello *HAND* here's how to paint a space marine entirely with dry brushing" videos, so I dunno. Something in the middle? Not sure exactly what that would look like.
ooooh, try some ushci van der rosten pigment powder with one of your brushes for chrome :D
Should be able to thin with alcohol, as their website says it's alcohol based.
They have broken video for airbrush instructions. Maybe shoot them an email, find out more, get samples.
Then find a cool use case.
Vallejo model air chrome is a great substitute. Not as shiny, but still an incredible product.
Yeah, I use that for the bright layer on my Alpha Legion marines and it’s perfect for the job. I’m tempted to try this one out for a Grey Knights kill team thoigh
There are other chrome paints for example Green Stuff World
and no harsh chemicals and much easier to use
I tried so many of the chomes, acrylics, alcohol based and solvent based, molotow is pretty good, that and the new super chrome from ak interactiv is pretty simular. But the molotow is best with brush and the super chrome is best with airbrush. But the best chrome is from greenstuffworld, they make one for brush and one for airbrush and they are not the same. But that is the best one, it takes shading and stuff best without the shine getting messed with. Like oilwashes and stuff.
Check out Barbatos Rex RUclips channel for a look at all the chome paints, he has done a bunch of tests, even more than me, and he filmed them😁
Soooo... my question then is... do the graffiti markers have a tip that you could use to apply it directly to a model from the pin, or do you HAVE to do it in brush/airbrush format?
@@septymesk7721 if you buy the marker and not the refill, the marker has a felt-tip that you can use. But its better control with a brush, and it can be thinned and cleaned with iso alcohol
@@komma8203 thanks, appreciate it! I recently tried out some Gundam markers on my tau stuff for lining, etc and I really like how it works; was wondering if this could be my next move lol
@@septymesk7721 i have done wepons and stuff like that on miniatures with the molotow chrome marker, worked just fine, its just that i have more control with a brush than i feel i have with the marker
Alclad or greenstuff world airbrush is the best for general semi strong chrome, but it tends to be darker in comparison and doesnt make for good candies. It is a superior stand alone chrome though, but requires a very smooth black gloss undercoat.
Shiny!
Yes Cap'n!
Has anyone painted the Void Dragon using Molotow?
I use Tamiya paint pens for my shiny requirements
When airbrushed you don't thin it. You need to get close & quick, it will look like you brushed. I have never had a problem. Greatly simulates the real chrome on cars.
Awesome, pinned! Thanks for the info :)
Ouch. I never thin it. 😅
if you don't paint a necron with this paint i'll be extremely disappointed! ;)
🤣🤣
We use it for car models