Thanks, I tried my best to make them look clean and functional. I think I would make a pretty good car show judge since these are the things I look at when checking out cars. Mark
Hey Mark At 5 hours i'd say you did really well to have it come out that sano. For me, better to not focus on the time, it takes what it takes for that level of presionen. Another great one!¡!¡ Jack in Mex BTW To me there's nothing better to see than all the lines and wires evenly spaced and organized.
Thanks Jack, good to hear from you. My motto is if you are going to do it you might as well spend a little more time and do it right and have it look clean. Mark
Really enjoying this series. I'm like you, I like the car to be sealed. I recently removed the entire interior of my 64 Chevelle to install sound deadening and even though the car was restored about 10+ years ago, I was surprised on how many holes were in the floorboard and firewall. I had to seam seal sections, add in factory body plugs and seal holes that had been drilled in the floor for what ever reason.
I think it is one of the easiest and cheapest thing you can do to improve the drive quality of a car, especially older cars. Strange what we find in these old vehicles even when we have owned them for years and years. It only takes a small hole to let water in and ruin a classic. Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication As I have been watching your series, each post you make it seem to be something I need to do on my car next. I want/need to replace the front metal brake lines, as I have a Wilwood system, but who ever installed it, hand bent the lines going from the splitter to each front wheel, so there are hard kink bends. The brakes work, but....yeah, naaaa, not correct. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks
@@OpenRoader Strange they would do that when a bender is pretty cheap on Ebay or Amazon. The double flare tool is a must so get one or borrow one and you will make it look perfect I am sure. Undoing less than proper work is sometimes most of the work on these cars isn't it? Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I would say, 80% of the work I have done on my car has been undoing/redoing someone else's poor workmanship. But it's OK. I'm a details kind of guy, I like it all to work. I'm getting there. I emailed you some pictures. Blue 64 convertible
Thank you John. It would have been a lot harder with stainless lines, galvanized steel is more forgiving for sure. Send me some pics of the 1 1/2 ton I would love to see it and post them at the end of one of the videos. Mark
Hi Billy. Yes if the brake lines go straight down to a fixed mount but since these have a few bends in them along the way there is more than enough room for the tiny amount of movement and vibration. Loops also tend to trap bubbles so if used care should be taken to ensure the lines are purged well.
Hi Mark Great job on that install . Very helpful . I have the same kit for my 65 Lemans , it comes with a white colored plastic piece but the instructions don’t say what it’s for . I was wondering if you could shed some light on what it might be used for . Thank you
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thanks for getting back to me Mark I kept searching and found that it’s to keep the metering valve in the proportioning valve from moving while bleeding the brakes . You remove the switch that turns on the brake light when there’s a fluid loss to either front or rear and screw in the piece I’m talking about in its place . Thanks again and I’m hooked on your vids , very helpful and love the goat . I’ll be watching .
@@joemartocci7907 I just learned something from you, thank you Joe. I have never heard of that done. I was taught to always pump the pedal slowly so the valve wouldn't lock out the other end. Best of luck on your install and be sure to look up proper booster shaft adjustment.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I did. I should be good Nice chatting with you I’ll be commenting on your vids Good luck with the 67 Can’t wait to see more
You do need to run a proportioning valve so if your car has one already but is not a 4 wheel disc brake car and that is what you are installing you will need to run the proportioning valve from the kit you bought and toss the factory valve. On the Malibu it was 4 wheel drum with a single master cylinder and no proportioning valve so it needed everything for the conversion. If this doesn't answer your question of if you have more just let me know. Mark
@FoothillPaintandFabrication thanks I have a 65 impala I just put the disc brake kit on the front and i'm still running drums in the back My car did not come with any brake lines or anything. I put new everything so I don't have that little copper proportioning valve That comes on the frame of the car but my brake booster comes with that big Chrome proportioning valve like the one u have . Can I just use that alone and run everything from there
@@josha7548 Yes run the one that came with the kit. I am assuming the kit you bought is for front disc, rear drum setup as some parts are different for disc/disc. For the rear drums you will just run a single brake line to the rear end. For the front you will need to split the line coming out of the proportioning valve for the left/right discs.
Absolutely but the chrome bracket that holds the proportioning valve fit on the outboard side and I wanted to keep the engine area clean. It is all personal preference isn't it? Mark
I did adjust the booster to brake pedal rod a little so it was back up against the brake light switch/stop with a small amount of play so right after the brake lights came on you could start to feel braking pressure in the pedal. Maybe about an inch or so at the bottom of the pedal. Once the system is bled do your final adjustments with the car running. Use the lower hole in the pedal arm, the upper is for manual brakes, lower is for vacuum assist. I did fine tune it a little so it felt right during test driving too.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication cool...thanks on that...but between the rod and master cylinder Is no adjustment needed? Like other cars where an a djusting tool is needed?
@@ari1234. Correct there is no adjustment but there is a short plug that goes into the master cylinder where the booster rod goes in. It is needed for master cylinders that are set up for manual brakes where the rod goes in further.
I was thinking about your question and I misunderstood what you were asking. What I told you was wrong in regards to adjusting the rod between the booster and master cylinder. Here is a quick video which shows it clearly. ruclips.net/video/WI_CXBJ6J3E/видео.html I apologize for the confusion. Mark @@ari1234.
Very neat job Mark! I think you have done a few of those!
Super clean install on the brake lines. Great job Mark.
Thanks Dave and thanks for tool loan.
Mark
Nice work Mark. It drives me nuts when people do sloppy brake lines. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks, I tried my best to make them look clean and functional. I think I would make a pretty good car show judge since these are the things I look at when checking out cars.
Mark
Mark nice clean work on those brake lines looking good!
Thanks Rodney, they came out really nice.
Mark
Hey Mark
At 5 hours i'd say you did really well to have it come out that sano. For me, better to not focus on the time, it takes what it takes for that level of presionen. Another great one!¡!¡ Jack in Mex
BTW To me there's nothing better to see than all the lines and wires evenly spaced and organized.
Thanks Jack, good to hear from you. My motto is if you are going to do it you might as well spend a little more time and do it right and have it look clean.
Mark
Really enjoying this series. I'm like you, I like the car to be sealed. I recently removed the entire interior of my 64 Chevelle to install sound deadening and even though the car was restored about 10+ years ago, I was surprised on how many holes were in the floorboard and firewall. I had to seam seal sections, add in factory body plugs and seal holes that had been drilled in the floor for what ever reason.
I think it is one of the easiest and cheapest thing you can do to improve the drive quality of a car, especially older cars. Strange what we find in these old vehicles even when we have owned them for years and years. It only takes a small hole to let water in and ruin a classic.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication As I have been watching your series, each post you make it seem to be something I need to do on my car next. I want/need to replace the front metal brake lines, as I have a Wilwood system, but who ever installed it, hand bent the lines going from the splitter to each front wheel, so there are hard kink bends. The brakes work, but....yeah, naaaa, not correct. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks
@@OpenRoader Strange they would do that when a bender is pretty cheap on Ebay or Amazon. The double flare tool is a must so get one or borrow one and you will make it look perfect I am sure. Undoing less than proper work is sometimes most of the work on these cars isn't it?
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I would say, 80% of the work I have done on my car has been undoing/redoing someone else's poor workmanship. But it's OK. I'm a details kind of guy, I like it all to work. I'm getting there. I emailed you some pictures. Blue 64 convertible
@@OpenRoader Perfect thank you. I will get them in a video soon.
Nice job. Brake lines can be trying to say the least! Had to replumb 50 chevy 1-1/2 ton truck front brakes, so far, very tight turns.
Thank you John. It would have been a lot harder with stainless lines, galvanized steel is more forgiving for sure. Send me some pics of the 1 1/2 ton I would love to see it and post them at the end of one of the videos.
Mark
Isn’t it common to bend a loop or two into the brake line to allow it to flex when the pedal is pressed ?
Hi Billy. Yes if the brake lines go straight down to a fixed mount but since these have a few bends in them along the way there is more than enough room for the tiny amount of movement and vibration. Loops also tend to trap bubbles so if used care should be taken to ensure the lines are purged well.
As always great work. I’m always checking for your new videos. Keep them coming!! 🔥
Thank you Justin. Right now at least every Thursday morning a video will come out. Stay tuned!!!
Hi Mark
Great job on that install .
Very helpful .
I have the same kit for my 65 Lemans , it comes with a white colored plastic piece but the instructions don’t say what it’s for . I was wondering if you could shed some light on what it might be used for .
Thank you
Hey Joe, can you describe the plastic piece to me? Is it flat or round and about how big?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Thanks for getting back to me Mark
I kept searching and found that it’s to keep the metering valve in the proportioning valve from moving while bleeding the brakes . You remove the switch that turns on the brake light when there’s a fluid loss to either front or rear and screw in the piece I’m talking about in its place .
Thanks again and I’m hooked on your vids , very helpful and love the goat .
I’ll be watching .
@@joemartocci7907 I just learned something from you, thank you Joe. I have never heard of that done. I was taught to always pump the pedal slowly so the valve wouldn't lock out the other end.
Best of luck on your install and be sure to look up proper booster shaft adjustment.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
I did. I should be good
Nice chatting with you
I’ll be commenting on your vids
Good luck with the 67 Can’t wait to see more
Do u have to use the stock Proportioning valve or can u just run the lines straight from the new chrom one ? Thanks
You do need to run a proportioning valve so if your car has one already but is not a 4 wheel disc brake car and that is what you are installing you will need to run the proportioning valve from the kit you bought and toss the factory valve. On the Malibu it was 4 wheel drum with a single master cylinder and no proportioning valve so it needed everything for the conversion. If this doesn't answer your question of if you have more just let me know.
Mark
@FoothillPaintandFabrication thanks
I have a 65 impala I just put the disc brake kit on the front and i'm still running drums in the back My car did not come with any brake lines or anything. I put new everything so I don't have that little copper proportioning valve That comes on the frame of the car
but my brake booster comes with that big Chrome proportioning valve like the one u have . Can I just use that alone and run everything from there
@@josha7548 Yes run the one that came with the kit. I am assuming the kit you bought is for front disc, rear drum setup as some parts are different for disc/disc.
For the rear drums you will just run a single brake line to the rear end. For the front you will need to split the line coming out of the proportioning valve for the left/right discs.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication ok thanks for the help , I appreciate it🙌🏽
@@josha7548 no problem, let me know if I you have any more questions
Prob could’ve mounted proportioning valve on other side of master. Especially if making new lines
Absolutely but the chrome bracket that holds the proportioning valve fit on the outboard side and I wanted to keep the engine area clean. It is all personal preference isn't it?
Mark
NO NEED TO ADJUST THE ROD ON THE BBOOSTER. CORRECT?
I did adjust the booster to brake pedal rod a little so it was back up against the brake light switch/stop with a small amount of play so right after the brake lights came on you could start to feel braking pressure in the pedal. Maybe about an inch or so at the bottom of the pedal. Once the system is bled do your final adjustments with the car running. Use the lower hole in the pedal arm, the upper is for manual brakes, lower is for vacuum assist. I did fine tune it a little so it felt right during test driving too.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication cool...thanks on that...but between the rod and master cylinder Is no adjustment needed? Like other cars where an a djusting tool is needed?
@@ari1234. Correct there is no adjustment but there is a short plug that goes into the master cylinder where the booster rod goes in. It is needed for master cylinders that are set up for manual brakes where the rod goes in further.
mine if flat rubber Thanks@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
I was thinking about your question and I misunderstood what you were asking. What I told you was wrong in regards to adjusting the rod between the booster and master cylinder. Here is a quick video which shows it clearly. ruclips.net/video/WI_CXBJ6J3E/видео.html
I apologize for the confusion.
Mark @@ari1234.