Great job explaining now only how the push rod pin works to have to adjust it THE RIGHT WAY by a true professional. I have seen other videos where people are basically guessitmating the correct distance instead of taking a precise measurement.
Hi just wanted to say excellent video can’t find a video like that in Australia 🇦🇺 thank you for explaining it correctly Paul from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
Super helpful. The best video on this. However, two things you could have addressed would be other symptoms such as brakes dragging. You only mentioned brakes locking up. Another area to address would be if you're doing this with everything already in the car. You will have to loosen one of the lock nuts under the dash such as the one on the pedal side to twist the pin on the booster side in the engine bay. Great video though. Got me 90% of the way there.
@First Place Auto Parts I am confused by the bit with turning the locknut. Does turning the locknut itself adjust the length of the push rod? Or are we loosening the locknut so we can adjust the length manually by pushing or pulling on the rod?
Hi I’ve put a booster on my 65 mustang, disks on front drums on rear. I fitted a combination valve so the rear drums come on first, but I barely touch the brake pedal and the front disks lock up. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
@@jamesscullion8394 Zactly whatvJeff said. Does exactly what he said, proportions. But, I have a thought that this may be a word game. If you are telling us that the combo valve is a proportioning valve, then go to it, reset it" and push the pin back in, bleed your brakes so AGAIN, so that it doesnt reset that pin and cause the front to lock up again... www.google.ca/search?q=combination+valve+brakes&sca_esv=4997d9601951f80e&sxsrf=ADLYWILJ7WxVRI--PKLBljVwNwt6wM1xpQ%3A1727843153069&source=hp&ei=Ucv8ZsT1AYXa0PEPrueswAs&oq=&gs_lp=EhFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocCIAKgIIATIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIQEC4YxwEYJxjqAhiOBRivATIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAkibClAAWABwAXgAkAEAmAEAoAEAqgEAuAEByAEAmAIBoAIQqAIPmAMQkgcBMaAHAA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp Pin is under boot/pressure switch
The thickness of a human hair, or 1/16" or the length of your work boot, just as long as it's close. I mean, this is only a video on how to do the job right, why make it sound like you know what your talking about?
Amateur here. I'm converting my front drums to discs on my 64 Ranchero. I purchased a conversion kit that included a double chamber master cylinder attached to a vacuum power booster. The problem is that there is no space because the mast cylinder hits the shock tower. Would it be prudent to just remove the power booster? As is, I'm already upgrading from a single chamber to a double chamber master cylinder so I believe it to be a step up. Please help.
What was your issue? I did a conversion and my front disc brakes get hot after a while of riding. I’m thinking I need to adjust this rod because I didn’t before.
Thank you for your comment and for watching. Either measurement will work (and your recommendation of .020 makes it easy to set the shown tool with a feeler gauge). Important thing is that there is no pre-load transmitted from the pushrod to the master cylinder piston upon assembly.
2000 Lincoln Town Car, spec is between .23 and .245.....which is something like 1/5 to 1/4 of and inch...approximately. Just some info for your noodle.
Not a expert I doing a conversation from vacuum booster to hydroboost. I going to have to shorten the push rod on my conversation. I going to cut off the rod and gring the correct profile on rod . I was told to cut and leave it long then grind it to get the final clearance. I going to try to set it up with very little clearance.
Something to always remember when doing this and something most people neglect to mention,when the booster is in operation that rod changes as vacuum is pulled from the booster chamber so the measurement MUST always be made with the engine on if you want it to be 100% correct and you are anal but doing it like this will work too but it wont be exact.
While you were bench bleeding the master cylinder you should have went ahead and plugged the ports and tried to dead head the piston by hand. It's not uncommon to find clearance in there before it goes rock hard and that needs to be taken into consideration when setting the rod length. It's not unusual to have to put preload into the piston to get the best breaking power.
What? :D All you need if you had a preload on a booster push rod is to adjust it inwards untill the master touch the booster. Than you know there is no gap between so you than measure the depth between push rod and a booster top with whatever is suitable and just srew the nut inwards even further to make desired clearence :D
Yes, always confirm the push rod to master pocket depth, its an often overlooked step that has much to do with how the new brake system will feel and perform
First off a human hair is NOT .040" it is .001 to .003", second, if you thread the nut out the Power Booster 1/16" and load the master cylinder the visible gap should be 1/16" then you can set the inside nut and tighten the outer nut. Done! Just figured it out thinking about it. hahaha Here's yet another way, sneak up on it til they butt up, using the visible gap(between the components) method, then using the calculation from the thread pitch you'll know how many turns to back off the nut and tighten.
lol,you must be in Europe,2023 or 24 or the year 5000 has nothing to do with using metric or standard,different countries use different measurements,its the way they were set up 100 years ago,you remind me of something i always say when i watch a British movie "you're driving on the wrong side!!! Joking aside i actually do prefer the metric system, is much easier that dealing with quarters and fractions but this video was made in the USA and thats what we use here. @@TKOrace
Great job explaining now only how the push rod pin works to have to adjust it THE RIGHT WAY by a true professional. I have seen other videos where people are basically guessitmating the correct distance instead of taking a precise measurement.
Great video….that 1/16 was exactly what was wrong with my jeep….brakes not locking up anymore…..thanks….keep turning
Hi just wanted to say excellent video can’t find a video like that in Australia 🇦🇺 thank you for explaining it correctly
Paul from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺
And Dave from Perth !
Super helpful. The best video on this. However, two things you could have addressed would be other symptoms such as brakes dragging. You only mentioned brakes locking up. Another area to address would be if you're doing this with everything already in the car. You will have to loosen one of the lock nuts under the dash such as the one on the pedal side to twist the pin on the booster side in the engine bay. Great video though. Got me 90% of the way there.
excellent videos on this channel. please provide one that shows how to adjust the brake pedal rod length into the back of the booster.
@First Place Auto Parts
I am confused by the bit with turning the locknut. Does turning the locknut itself adjust the length of the push rod? Or are we loosening the locknut so we can adjust the length manually by pushing or pulling on the rod?
Excellent video, easy to understand and straight to the point- thank you!
Do you have a video on brake pedal rod adjustment when you don't have a booster??
Hi I’ve put a booster on my 65 mustang, disks on front drums on rear. I fitted a combination valve so the rear drums come on first, but I barely touch the brake pedal and the front disks lock up. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.
Proportioning valve, they also sell adjustable ones
@@jamesscullion8394 Zactly whatvJeff said. Does exactly what he said, proportions. But, I have a thought that this may be a word game. If you are telling us that the combo valve is a proportioning valve, then go to it, reset it" and push the pin back in, bleed your brakes so AGAIN, so that it doesnt reset that pin and cause the front to lock up again...
www.google.ca/search?q=combination+valve+brakes&sca_esv=4997d9601951f80e&sxsrf=ADLYWILJ7WxVRI--PKLBljVwNwt6wM1xpQ%3A1727843153069&source=hp&ei=Ucv8ZsT1AYXa0PEPrueswAs&oq=&gs_lp=EhFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocCIAKgIIATIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIQEC4YxwEYJxjqAhiOBRivATIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAjIHECMYJxjqAkibClAAWABwAXgAkAEAmAEAoAEAqgEAuAEByAEAmAIBoAIQqAIPmAMQkgcBMaAHAA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
Pin is under boot/pressure switch
A human hair is nowhere near 1/16" thick.
A 16th of an inch is .0625”
A human hair is roughly .003”
Y'all some bitches man trying to help people out and your disecting every little thing he says. If you get real close that will work
Pubic hair is 😂
The thickness of a human hair, or 1/16" or the length of your work boot, just as long as it's close. I mean, this is only a video on how to do the job right, why make it sound like you know what your talking about?
@@raymattox5115 actually a THIRD of that .001
so, i purchased a new master cylinder and will be using the original brake booster. would i need to make this measurement?
Amateur here. I'm converting my front drums to discs on my 64 Ranchero. I purchased a conversion kit that included a double chamber master cylinder attached to a vacuum power booster. The problem is that there is no space because the mast cylinder hits the shock tower. Would it be prudent to just remove the power booster? As is, I'm already upgrading from a single chamber to a double chamber master cylinder so I believe it to be a step up. Please help.
this was great information, helped salve a long time problem. thanks
What was your issue? I did a conversion and my front disc brakes get hot after a while of riding. I’m thinking I need to adjust this rod because I didn’t before.
bought one of these tools to adjust pin on my 92 mustang ... and it was way off ... had to messure the old way to get it right ...
With the booster adjusting rod how far does it come out?
Thank you! Great explanation 👌
How can you get the tool cheap and on time like the next day or same day
I would adjust for .020 instead of 1/16 “
Thank you for your comment and for watching. Either measurement will work (and your recommendation of .020 makes it easy to set the shown tool with a feeler gauge). Important thing is that there is no pre-load transmitted from the pushrod to the master cylinder piston upon assembly.
2000 Lincoln Town Car, spec is between .23 and .245.....which is something like 1/5 to 1/4 of and inch...approximately. Just some info for your noodle.
Apparently this varies between manufacturers. My Toyota FSM says “zero clearance” for my ‘99 Tacoma. (Zero as in no gap at all)
1/16" is human hair? Holy f***! They must be gods . . .
With really good hair!
My SBC Master Cylinder Push Rod is not adjustable. I searched and can not find an adjustable Push Rod?
Not a expert I doing a conversation from vacuum booster to hydroboost. I going to have to shorten the push rod on my conversation. I going to cut off the rod and gring the correct profile on rod . I was told to cut and leave it long then grind it to get the final clearance. I going to try to set it up with very little clearance.
Awesome thanks
Something to always remember when doing this and something most people neglect to mention,when the booster is in operation that rod changes as vacuum is pulled from the booster chamber so the measurement MUST always be made with the engine on if you want it to be 100% correct and you are anal but doing it like this will work too but it wont be exact.
Super helpful
My rush rod is not adjustable. I am having this same issue.
I don't think my 69 eldo is adjustable
Front brakes dragging
While you were bench bleeding the master cylinder you should have went ahead and plugged the ports and tried to dead head the piston by hand. It's not uncommon to find clearance in there before it goes rock hard and that needs to be taken into consideration when setting the rod length. It's not unusual to have to put preload into the piston to get the best breaking power.
Where are you guys located at.?.
What? :D All you need if you had a preload on a booster push rod is to adjust it inwards untill the master touch the booster. Than you know there is no gap between so you than measure the depth between push rod and a booster top with whatever is suitable and just srew the nut inwards even further to make desired clearence :D
Where is that tool sold ???
What is the tool called
Amazon $15 one day shipping
Do I have to do same with hydro boost
Yes, always confirm the push rod to master pocket depth, its an often overlooked step that has much to do with how the new brake system will feel and perform
I don’t see anything to adjust on master or hydro boost
Where can I pick up one of the tools
Jegs sells one
What is it called@@brianplourde6115
First off a human hair is NOT .040" it is .001 to .003", second, if you thread the nut out the Power Booster 1/16" and load the master cylinder the visible gap should be 1/16" then you can set the inside nut and tighten the outer nut. Done! Just figured it out thinking about it. hahaha Here's yet another way, sneak up on it til they butt up, using the visible gap(between the components) method, then using the calculation from the thread pitch you'll know how many turns to back off the nut and tighten.
My push rod doesn't have a nut on it it just spins in and out. Should I buy a nut and put one on? 67 camaro RS drums all around.
Same here. Too bad no feed back from this channel.
@@josuevalencia8298 you and @_land_of_the_free_ may find this is a video not a forum where you can ask questions and get answers for free
What is the tool called
You really don't need it this video is made to sell a lot of these, not saying it's useless it's just not necessary...
I never knew this all this time. A human hair and a 16th of an inch is a pretty big difference.😂
Dude, a 1/16" is nowhere near the "thickness of a human hair". Lol
Its 2023,, please use millimeter!!
Put down the tools and step away from the master cylinder. It's 2023, if you can't figure that out by now let someone else do it.
@@joelvanbruggen9069 in 2023 no one needs to use the outdated imperial system..
lol,you must be in Europe,2023 or 24 or the year 5000 has nothing to do with using metric or standard,different countries use different measurements,its the way they were set up 100 years ago,you remind me of something i always say when i watch a British movie "you're driving on the wrong side!!!
Joking aside i actually do prefer the metric system, is much easier that dealing with quarters and fractions but this video was made in the USA and thats what we use here. @@TKOrace
Not in the USA
@TKOrace really, so are you purchasing yer Marijuana in Kilos?
The guy is wrong!. Human hair is .003 and 1/16 is .062