I've been doing my own basic brake maintenance my whole life, but im having trouble with the full custom system I installed on the hotrod im building. There was lots of bits of usefull info throughout this video that im glad I learned. Thank you. Most people dont give so much detail, they just tell you about whatever idea they're displaying. My car goes real fast, i really want it to stop. I don't wanna be the guy from that viral video, smashing his 800hp build on the first drive because the brakes went out...
Great video. Can’t wait to try these techniques tomorrow on the most peskiest vehicle I’ve ever tried to bleed brakes on. Yes it’s the wilwood master ugh
I wouldn’t bother calling unless you have tbm brakes. I called today and was told to call the manufacturer of my calipers to see what they recommended. After that, then call back and order a master cylinder. Thanks dalton. It makes sense but the video left me with the impression that they would be able to recommend and get me into the master cylinder that I needed.
We are happy to help, but we don’t have information on piston size (even in the same caliper companies make different piston sizes), and we don’t want to cause a liability issue without having ability to be responsible for the brakes being operated
This video reminded me of an old Freightshaker Tri-axle dump we bought at auction. It would hardly stop empty, it would have been a death trap loaded. The length adjustment was way off. Only putting 50 PSI to the chambers. A little adjustment and it would damn near put you through the windshield.
😀you seem to be talking about classic cars mstr cyl before boosters were installed because the pushrod is in the booster ....its all interesting but im more interested in just the mastercyl part which is the same for all vehicles
at the risk of asking an obvious/silly question; does bench bleeding apply only to new cyls or used cyls as well if its been removed from the vehicle for what ever reason?😷😁if its obvious humour me with an answer anyway😀😀😀
Just a thought with race car brakes being a BIG safety device, setting up authorized installers in various parts of the country? Installers properly trained to install TBM brakes.
So why does the Wilwood have that hole connecting the two reservoirs? When mounted in a GM power application the fluid in the front flows into the back. WTH.
Here’s what I wanna know, how are you guy’s reading my mind!!! Lol. I’m looking to convert my car to manual brakes. And then this video popped up!!! 😮😅
Why does no one ever mention the bigger the master cylinder bore, the less the pressure. You’re trading volume for pressure ,so peddle ratio needs to be changed for this too
I must be the only one on earth that doesn’t understand bench bleeding… the second you take the little tubes out to plumb your lines - all the fluid starts to come out
Master cylinder push rod is actually pretty simple. If you can put the pin in at the pedal without the aide of a torch or sledgehammer you have the length just right.
Buying less than a complete kit from a brake manufacturer is nuts - unless you are using bog standard known parts. There are just too many variables for the average home builder to get such a critical system right without some professional assistance. I was a licensed A&P mechanic. I understand hydraulic braking principles. But there is no way I would just wing it and build my own brakes. Not when my life depended on it.
Did you ever think somebody put that master on as an aftermarket set up? I know a coup[e people who run that same Mopar master on their Chevelle and Camaro.
And you should probably warn people about what happens if the brake Rod is too short or the pedal doesn't have a stop as it retracts and pulls the rod completely out of the master cylinder
The wilwood style master cylinder mechanically retains the pushrod so that is not possible in that case. Most master cylinders have an retaining oring that prevents this as well. If a kit doesn’t have a retaining function for the pushrod it can definitely be dangerous
@MotionRaceworksOfficial Yeah I got one of those years ago. Had the pushrod fall out and have no brakes then another if the adjustment was a little tighter it would fall out of the pocket and jam outside of the cup and drag the brakes. The non wilwood master cylinder
The purpose of these video’s is the information inside them not the perfection of the editing and the quality. If doug cared about the quality of the video he wouldn’t be doing it in the shop with a bunch of cnc machines running in the background. Be happy they are sharing their knowledge with potentially 100’s of thousands of non paying customers.
Ridley me this. Currently working on 65 Mustang with a SSBC 4 wheel disk kit, which I found...lacking in many ways. On the third MC now, bench bled, modified by having to open up mounting holes. This one bled perfectly in the vice, showing completely different characteristics than the other two. Had to cut off 3/16 off the booster push rod after running the measurements. After bleeding the entire system several times, I did get a reasonably good pedal feel at about 1 1/2 in down. However, when the engine is running, the pedal goes pretty much to the floor, and the breaking power is shit. I'm at the end of my experience and knowledge. Any ideas?
I think that you are way overthrowing this video... If the pedal is tight and no air is in it then you have no problem. It's all in the feel of the brake pedal
I've been doing my own basic brake maintenance my whole life, but im having trouble with the full custom system I installed on the hotrod im building. There was lots of bits of usefull info throughout this video that im glad I learned. Thank you. Most people dont give so much detail, they just tell you about whatever idea they're displaying.
My car goes real fast, i really want it to stop. I don't wanna be the guy from that viral video, smashing his 800hp build on the first drive because the brakes went out...
That guys brakes went out because he was dragging the brakes to hold back a blown motor.
Great video. Can’t wait to try these techniques tomorrow on the most peskiest vehicle I’ve ever tried to bleed brakes on. Yes it’s the wilwood master ugh
Keep the brake related tech coming, it’s very helpful.
Awesome info Doug, would still love to see a start to finish brake line video with the line lock install and everything
I just did a manual swap I think the pre load is the problem. To the garage we go😊
I wouldn’t bother calling unless you have tbm brakes. I called today and was told to call the manufacturer of my calipers to see what they recommended. After that, then call back and order a master cylinder. Thanks dalton. It makes sense but the video left me with the impression that they would be able to recommend and get me into the master cylinder that I needed.
We are happy to help, but we don’t have information on piston size (even in the same caliper companies make different piston sizes), and we don’t want to cause a liability issue without having ability to be responsible for the brakes being operated
Awesome video, like to c 9 inch drum to disc conversion with proportional valve info done on rear. Thanks
This video reminded me of an old Freightshaker Tri-axle dump we bought at auction. It would hardly stop empty, it would have been a death trap loaded. The length adjustment was way off. Only putting 50 PSI to the chambers. A little adjustment and it would damn near put you through the windshield.
Good idea for next video. A video on explaining all drag race rollcage levels and what modifications you can do to each one
😀you seem to be talking about classic cars mstr cyl before boosters were installed because the pushrod is in the booster ....its all interesting but im more interested in just the mastercyl part which is the same for all vehicles
at the risk of asking an obvious/silly question; does bench bleeding apply only to new cyls or used cyls as well if its been removed from the vehicle for what ever reason?😷😁if its obvious humour me with an answer anyway😀😀😀
Just a thought with race car brakes being a BIG safety device, setting up authorized installers in various parts of the country? Installers properly trained to install TBM brakes.
LS George can tell you issues with the rod being too short or not supported
So can the corn he knocked over.
Question--so both sides of the old metal brake master cylinder need to be filled up? is that correct. I have 1970 gmc TRUCK.
So why does the Wilwood have that hole connecting the two reservoirs? When mounted in a GM power application the fluid in the front flows into the back. WTH.
On the Wilwood master cylinder what chamber goes where when ur running disc disc brakes
Installing BBK, do i need to change the brake booster as well or just the master cylinder?
Another good one and will be buying full brake kit soon
some mastercyls have a longer piece where the piston circlip holds the piston in...whats the difference? my 2001 dodge ram mastr has a longer one
1960's Mopar never used the 2 piece master cylinder with plastic reservoir late 70's
how would you calculate the size of M.C. needed for an aftermarket hydraulic e-brake system? i have rear Cobras of 38mm D.
Still adjusting my rod length
1960's Mopar never used a 2 piece master cylinder ...mid to late 70's did
Here’s what I wanna know, how are you guy’s reading my mind!!! Lol. I’m looking to convert my car to manual brakes. And then this video popped up!!! 😮😅
Dude, you saved my *ss I appreciate this video!
Great information, thanks 👍
Good explanation, thanks
Why does no one ever mention the bigger the master cylinder bore, the less the pressure. You’re trading volume for pressure ,so peddle ratio needs to be changed for this too
My name is Ashley I just delivered pizza to you from doordash. That’s awesome! Thanks for the tip!
Hello, can someone please help me, how can I adjust the backlash of the brake pedal on an Opel Asta G??
I must be the only one on earth that doesn’t understand bench bleeding… the second you take the little tubes out to plumb your lines - all the fluid starts to come out
Thank You!
Great video
Master cylinder push rod is actually pretty simple. If you can put the pin in at the pedal without the aide of a torch or sledgehammer you have the length just right.
If it was Power brake and I ditch the booster I raise the pedal point up 1 inch Easy
thanks
Buying less than a complete kit from a brake manufacturer is nuts - unless you are using bog standard known parts. There are just too many variables for the average home builder to get such a critical system right without some professional assistance.
I was a licensed A&P mechanic. I understand hydraulic braking principles. But there is no way I would just wing it and build my own brakes. Not when my life depended on it.
what ever happened with the engine giveaway??? A lot of people placed orders and I know I'm not the only one waiting to hear the winner announced. 😜
We announced it on our social media (not here).
The guy took the cash option to finish his project he already had a motor for
That master was NEVER on a 60's Mopar. Lost faith already.
Did you ever think somebody put that master on as an aftermarket set up? I know a coup[e people who run that same Mopar master on their Chevelle and Camaro.
HELL YEAH BROTHER let's go 💪
And you should probably warn people about what happens if the brake Rod is too short or the pedal doesn't have a stop as it retracts and pulls the rod completely out of the master cylinder
The wilwood style master cylinder mechanically retains the pushrod so that is not possible in that case. Most master cylinders have an retaining oring that prevents this as well. If a kit doesn’t have a retaining function for the pushrod it can definitely be dangerous
@MotionRaceworksOfficial Yeah I got one of those years ago. Had the pushrod fall out and have no brakes then another if the adjustment was a little tighter it would fall out of the pocket and jam outside of the cup and drag the brakes. The non wilwood master cylinder
Brakes just slow you down
Wilwood or nothing.
✌🏽😎
Oof. Some people have no business being in racing. So cringy hearing this story.
Just my opinion. You guys cut and edit way too much in your videos.
We would rather put our videos that aren’t perfect edit and get info to help people than spend months on production and shooting. Sorry not sorry
Some people just bitch to bitch keep up the great work Motion 👍
The purpose of these video’s is the information inside them not the perfection of the editing and the quality. If doug cared about the quality of the video he wouldn’t be doing it in the shop with a bunch of cnc machines running in the background. Be happy they are sharing their knowledge with potentially 100’s of thousands of non paying customers.
Ridley me this.
Currently working on 65 Mustang with a SSBC 4 wheel disk kit, which I found...lacking in many ways.
On the third MC now, bench bled, modified by having to open up mounting holes. This one bled perfectly in the vice, showing completely different characteristics than the other two.
Had to cut off 3/16 off the booster push rod after running the measurements.
After bleeding the entire system several times, I did get a reasonably good pedal feel at about 1 1/2 in down.
However, when the engine is running, the pedal goes pretty much to the floor, and the breaking power is shit.
I'm at the end of my experience and knowledge. Any ideas?
This could have been a 3 minute video with facts, instead made into 15 minute narrative. Gees
I think that you are way overthrowing this video... If the pedal is tight and no air is in it then you have no problem. It's all in the feel of the brake pedal
That’s incorrect, if it has preload it will not work properly