How To Build A Custom Brake Plumbing System for Classic or Race Cars
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- Опубликовано: 4 фев 2025
- / autoedits_jason
This is a long one so grab a beverage and hunker in for a bit because we get a lot done on the Autoedit Ford Mustang... also known as "Large Marge" !
In this video we design, fabricate and install the entire brake plumbing system for the 1973 Mustang from scratch. This car was a clean slate so every line and fitting is new.
One of the cool features I share in this video is my introduction to NiCopp Alloy Brake line. It's made from Nickel, Copper and Iron Alloy and comes in all popular sizes. The Mustang got 3/16 in. Diameter line and single flare -3 AN fittings except for the few 1/8" NPT fittings at the Master cylinders and wheel calipers. The benefit of using the NiCopp tubing is the rust resistance of stainless steel lines but the flexibility of mild steel.
Check out the video and stay tuned for the next chapter of the build up of Large Marge!
Thanks for watching,
Jason
That beer at the end of the day when you have actually accomplished something the way you have thought and planned it through, priceless.
You know it!
Where can I get unit?
A tip that I would add. When making brake lines, I try to make the brake caliper line into the caliper lower than the bleed port in the caliper, and the routing far side of any given section should be lower than the master and any section of the line. ie start at caliper and try to ONLY go up to the master, no high points for air to get trapped in between the caliper and the master. Makes bleeding the brakes 100x easier.
Good suggestion.
I dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Jaime Imran thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Jaime Imran It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Karter Stanley glad I could help :)
great video. good information and production. just a note.
NPT stands for "National Pipe Tapered" as opposed NPS which are "straight" threads. it's common for many to think the "T" in NPT stands for "Thread" but important for the DIY'er to know the difference so the correct fittings are used.
Thanks again for making video
Really good info. Thank you!
I have to admit that this was by far the best video that I seen involving a part of a build. The flat out best complete brake line installation with such ease a clean as heck. I love this video. Thanks.
the most beautiful flares happen when the fitting isn't on the line... and usually when i cant spare 1/4" to cut it back
Been there. Done that. I know your frustration. Not only that, I've soldered a seven wire connector only to discover I forgot to put the back shell and strain relief on first. Oh well, practice makes perfect, right?
huh, every bit as good of a production and content as a sponsored show you'd find on TV. subbing. thanks for the vid.
WELCOME and thanks so much for the nice comment!
Hey just came across your video. Well done. I'm a retired U.S. Navy Jet Mech/Search and Rescue/Vertical Replenishment AirCrewman. On one Det I was rushing to complete a line and was under the gun to complete it. I had told the Boss no problem we'll make it. Then I did exactly what you were talking about with regards to the sleeve. I just made my launch time for a major replenishment with the carrier. I kicked myself in the a** over it and my det didn't let me forget it. When your mouth writes checks your a** best cash them.
Great share!
@@AutoEdits THX I did a few others in my career but ran about 99% on cashing the checks but still hated messing up. Others could say hey sh*t happens and walk away me?? It would drive me nuts not doing it right the first time.
I know this video is 7 years old but I'm kind of surprised you never heard nickel copper at that point I upgraded the brakes on my 92 Mustang 10 years ago and used all nickel copper lines on that. I had been using it about six months prior on side work and my beater vehicles. Stuffs a life saver on the New England coast I'll tell you.
HELPED ME OUT TREMENDOUSLY ON MY 1980 F100 BUILD I WAS STUCK BUT THIS GAVE ME THE DIRECTION AND MODIVATION I NEEDED ! PLUS 1 SUBSCRIBER TODAY !
I’ve used those threaded inserts for 20+ years. I’m pretty sure Nutserts are the actual name. Great video.
Thanks!
Doing it for my first time tomorrow. I've seen every tip now. Still dread it
Try to enjoy it... it's a big job but it's important and can be fun.
19 years old, finally got my dream car! 68 mustang coupe. It’s a 3 speed on the floor with the inline six(v8 swap eventually) but rn gonna make it handle better! I love your videos! Hope my car can be as much a project as your!
Great video. Thanks. I did want to mention that I've had terrible success with using pressure switches in-line. They seem to work fine at first, but after a while, you need to press harder and harder on the brakes to close the circuit. I even found a "low pressure" switch on line and installed it with the same end result after a short time. I became so paranoid about losing brake lights that I installed a small indicator on my dash that only lit when the signal was sent to the the actual brake lights. Ultimately, I installed a mechanical switch which solved everything, but I kept the in dash indicator.
Thank you for this. I had been dreading this part of my project 53 Bel Air, but I think I can go in with confidence now.
Awesome to hear! Good luck!
Enjoyed the video. Nice post processing and use of multiple camera angles as well; many folks don't know what all goes into that part of making these videos. I've got a Ford project of another nature going at the moment and can relate to the brake plumbing, suspension and other task required to get these old vehicles back on the road and in tip top shape. Mine's a '67 F100 Pickup. Keep up the good work, I've subscribed and will be keeping up with your work for sure. Take care, Clay
Howdy Clay, sorry I missed this comment when you left it but thanks so much for the nice words.
I hope your F100 project is going well...I really love that era of Ford trucks!
Very nice video, I am doing a 70 Ford F100 with Crown Victoria front and rear end and CV power brake booster, By watching this I now can build my own distribution block. Now I don't need to purchase a brass distribution block, will do my own line routing like in the video all should work out for my application.
Really glad to hear about your project! Thanks for the feedback.
Love your demo. You helped me immensely with a perspective I hadn’t thought of.
Great! Thanks so much for watching!
Thank you so much. I enjoyed your video. You made it look simple. On the farm I quickly found out that teflon tape and hydraulic fluid are a no-win combination. There are pastes out there, such as one from Loctite, that work well but the white stuff on a roll should not be used. Thank you for making such an informative video.
Good tip. Interesting to hear about the teflon tape not working for you. It's still holding fine on this application but I'll look to a paste on future stuff.
@@AutoEdits Redid all of the lines on an old tractor with a nice new hydraulic spool. I made that mistake of using teflon tape and then two days later I spent half a day fishing all of those little pieces of half dissolved tape out of the insides of the spool. Of course, after the fact all of the hydraulic stores that make up hoses said, "Don't you know that you aren't supposed to ever..".
Yep never use Teflon tape on brake lines with a proper double flare you do not need any sealant at all they will not leak
Man the break line fab sounded, intimidating, you made it look almost doable for a nube amateur like me. Thanks.
Seriously phenomenal editing on this video. Subscribed and checking out your other stuff now. Large Marge's brake lines look nice!
Pissing it laughing...first the dog interrupting.
And then flaring and forgetting the fitting. Did it twice on same damn flare. Best friend still teases me.
Nice!
Thank you! That was a great video. I’m working on my first real project vehicle… a 1952 Chevy 3100. Your video will be a great help.
Glad it was helpful!
This was an awesome video. I can now go forward with confidence on my project. Gonna try that line as well. Thanks.
You can do it!
Great video...thanks for posting it.
I am currently building a racing car and am faced with fabbing up a brake system. I was considering using braided steel/teflon lined hose in 100% of the system, rather than alternating between the braided hose and hard lines. It would have a lot of advantages...fewer joints....complete flexibility....and the braided hose is actually tougher and less likely to be damaged than hard lines...because it is immune to vibration damage that can fracture a hard line that is not properly designed and mounted. It is also less likely to be crimped or permanently crushed due to damage.
I got a lot of predictable advice "use hard lines as much as possible or you will have a soft pedal...." etc.
While pondering all this.....I was looking at tech photos of a modern DTM racing car....arguably the highest technology racing in the world today (less restricted by rules than F1)....and the brake system on this car was plumbed 100% with braided steel hose. I figured if they didn't have a mushy pedal....neither would I....and decided to forego the hard line thing altogether.
I agree with the poster below....it is laughable that Wilwood still sells brake system parts plumbed with NPT. Why they do that is beyond me.
Possibly. My fear with some of the super-fly race tech is that they only have to make it last a few hours at a time.
We just used the nickel copper to redo all the brake lines on a customers 34 Ford. That stuff is great!
That's very cool to hear! Thanks for checking back!!!!
I'm glad this video is recommended to me. Now I'm a subscriber. Great video by the way.
Awesome, thank you!
Quality of work is mind blowing. Well done!
Thank you very much! Have you seen the test drive video of this car?
wow what a quality video, great video editing, this was so easy to see and understand. great work
Thanks very much... welcome!
Not much into car tinkering but I was very entertained anyway and I like your style and humour 👍
Well that's just cool to hear, thanks!
NiCu Is Great Working With!!....Plus I Live in the North East...Lots of Salt!!....Many Brake Lines!!
Great video. I'll definitely be playing this over and over out in the garage as I plumb my system.
(Great video quality too, some guys look like they're filming in a dark closet through a pair of pantyhose.)
HA! Thanks... If you keep watching this series... this car is now on the road and a driver and the brake system has been working flawlessly!
@@AutoEdits Do you have anymore detail on the hard line to flex line connection in the back? That's where I'm at now.
@@mdplemons I used one of these but as I searched I could only find this double order and it's expensive www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-lk-005 It's basically a -3 bulkhead
My problem is that I had to cut out the trunk floor for a coilover suspension that I installed. Now I have to be creative about where to mount the flex/hard junction.
Awesome as always! Pups and Hotrods...so cool. Had to remake a wicked hard to make line loc line because I forgot to put the end on. Good catch. lol
+n20cpri LOL, yeah we all have been there glad to here from ya!
brilliant video and Great quality.
Kind of surprised you dont have more views on this. 👍
I wish... but a cool comment like yours goes a long way for me. Thanks!
Nice simple brake line install 🙂
Thanks 👍
Great video. Thanks. My only observation is since I am new to all this it would have been good to see close up shots of the rivnut sequence. I can always look elsewhere for that, however. Thanks again.
once again I am blown away. you do such nice work Jason! Oh and the nut riviter is one of my favorite tools. - Ronnie
+Ron Reason Thanks so much!
Excellent instruction Jason good job
Thanks 👍
I used the plumbes of an old porsche in my car . And parts (stainless) from a truck.
Cleaned everything, and they are good quality. Had to emend some things, machinist work, but not big deal.
Free stuff,I used to rebuild things from scratch.
Love this video, it kind of makes me feel better knowing that others are using cuprinol (copper/nickel) lines on their cars. I have installed this on my brake and clutch systems on my 65 MGB, and I just love how it goes together. Great idea on using Rivnuts to secure the line clips. I am going to utilize some of these as well. Thanks for posting and great looking car.
Great video. Such a refreshing change from all the other DIY vids. Thanks!
Thank you... thank you very much!!!!!
The editing on this video was great. Keep up the good work man. I can't wait to see her finished.
+Brononomous Thanks dude!
Great Video as usual. Came at a very good time. I am currently plumbing the brake lines for my 67. I really like the nutsert idea.
another great vid, as I watch this I'm installing the 1 1/8" TCP front anti roll bar on the 69 fastback. I have their power rack and pinion conversion on the way. Their coilover conversion is on and Baer 6P brakes are waiting to go on. Your vids really lay out what I'm in for and help me as I go along doing this same build on my car. and as always.. Pinto is a badass. I look forward to future vids.
+GunfightersINC Thanks so much! I'll be interested to hear how you like your awesome Mustang with all of these mods!!!
Love your narration and personality
Thanks!
Great Videos, You're inspiring me to document my build. Nice sanitary work, I like the direction you've gone. Thanks for doing a nice thorough job on explaining as you go.
Awesome, thank you!
Amazing video! I cant wait to redo all my brake lines when converting to Manual Brakes. Make it look a ton nicer!
Nice clean look with some custom touches. Good job !!
I hadn't realised the Nicop line was available in the US now! I recommended it to a friend in VA a year or two ago for his Jeep and he couldn't find it. I myself have been using it in the UK since the early 80's when I first got into building cars, although I'm not sure when it appeared on the market, but I do recall it was quite a new thing at that time and have used it ever since!
Although if I remember correctly it was a Swedish invention because back then there was only one brand and it came marked made in Sweden with a Swedish trade mark logo!
+cheyennedogsoldiers Cool factoids!
Volvo has been using copper nickel brake lines since the 70's.
Awesome! I have 1965 mustang with a new set of wilwood brakes in which I need to plumb new lines to the front and rear your video helps out a lot. Thanks!
+Victor Y That's what were here for right!
No equalizer??? Or is that built into your master??? Thanks ....working on a 23 T right now.
Yes, there's a balance bar on the pedal assembly since this setup has discrete master cylinders front and rear.
Awesome video Jason! I have always preferred using stainless steel, but will definitely try the NiCopp or nickel copper lines over steel lines. Enjoy your journey with Large Marge. She looks cool! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I usually skip to these tutorials because it takes a long time to get to the point, but you sir kept me interested from start to finish. you diffidently got me pumped to keep working on my car. btw where did you get those flex lines?
just flawless, and a perfect choice.. tecate roja. Greets from Mexico
+Neto Reyes Absolutely... it was a worthy celebration... Thanks friend!
Yes , I too have screwed up . Just finished plumbing my 68 Cougar project . Forgot fitting , fitting backwards , bent line with fitting on wrong side of bend , etc........ but it looks great when done .
I would also add, coming from being a diesel tech on tractor trailers, that we were taught in brake class to use liquid tephlon vs tape bc it’s possible if a small piece in in the air stream, or in your case fluid stream, break off in the system, it could cause brake system failure. OCD is beating me up over that run on sentence.
Awesome set up! I’m definitely taking notes! Cheers on the tecate! 👌
man that is so clean, well done! I need to find the video why you are using single flare not double flare though
I wanted to go with the AN fittings and that's the only way for those. Since it's a well maintained hot rod... I've had good luck with those fittings, even for daily driver duties.
@@AutoEdits ah that's fair man. I just used the stock master in my build, when the forged motor goes in I'm sure I'll need to upgrade to something with abit more oomft. That wilwood set you have looks unreal, remember the part numbers or anything?
@@Simonstockton82 For sure... the Wilwood catalog has changed a bunch of time since this video and they have even better stuff... just search for what year car and they will offer a kit for it. Plus if you want to keep the double flare... the Wilwood calipers have any number of adapters to make it work with your system. They even helped me do the math on what master cylinder is right for my application!
@@AutoEdits cheers for the replies brother. Just subscribed. You tube needs more car guys like you 🤟
The down side of Nic Cop tubing. Is why I only fit copper brake line once.
The reason for the nickel is to make it look more traditional and keep the copper from tarnish.
But the issue is it's soft and supple to bend, but very easy to crumple ,dent , collapse by flying rocks and road debris far easier than Steel ( it's tough) and stainless steel ( real tough)
But nobody Dailys thier classics ,so just be aware and check it if for some reason you hit a dirt road .
Or a patch of questionable debris.
The coat hanger as a mock up tool ,I never thought of, so I learned something. I always roughed it in by hand bending then fine tune with bending tools. Or used the old lines.
Good info!
Copper brake lines are illegal to use in australia I don't know about where you are
Impressive production value on these videos.
Thx for being such an inspiration with this build been following all along and just love how this beast is coming along. Makes me always want work and continue my build on my fox body mustang!
subscribed, you sir are a true car enthusiasts. Down to details. quality work.
Great video! I do have a question what about a propositioning valve?
That is a good question. Because I’m using independent master cylinders front/rear… the proportioning happens at the pedal with a balance bar.
I absolutely love all of your videos! You keep me intrigued with everything you've done to this car and I learn a lot along the way! Thank you good Sir! Makes me want to go and wrench on my own mustang now haha
+ferniee16 That's great to hear, thanks for the share... now go tinker!
I love to see the old time wire coathanger being used! So much more impressive than just hanging clothes on it. Where do you get these suckers any more? Dry Cleaning stores! LOL I've got to run brake lines on my 56 Chevy Belair. Good thing I found this perfect brake line video! Thanks
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing this
My pleasure!
Love these videos. Your car is going to look sick when you finish it. Can't wait!
This video will be helpful in designing a custom hydraulic braking system for a lathe.
That's cool to hear!
Learned much from your video. But am puzzled why the install did not seem to include a proportioning valve or combination valve?
Solid question, this setup has individual master cylinders for the front and rear brakes so it uses a balance bar on the pedal to adjust brake proportioning.
coat hanger. Genius!!
Great video. Not too sure I'd use aluminum fittings. I would have used stainless.
your dog must be the best fixer/builder cardog on the earth
Hi nice job. Just getting ready to do my own. Why no proportioning valve? Not needed?
Very good question. Since this pedal setup has discreet master cylinders for front and rear... I adjust the bias right there on the pedals... it's pretty cool. Otherwise, yes a standard prop valve would be needed on the rear lines!
Look up Kool Tools and their flare lapping tools, perfect seal every time.
great setup, but shouldn't you be using a double flare hard-line?
no need to with AN lines. thats for antiquated UNF type threads that seal by squishing the tube itself. on AN lines the fittings are what seal it which is why they are much more common on high dollar high pressure setups. (5000psi aircraft hydraulic systems even use AN) on his hard lines he did double flare though. its all done in 1 step with that tool he used when he did finally go to hardlines
Thank you for a great video. Love the terminal idea on the firewall and using NiCopp. Will use these on my project.
If cost weren't a factor, is there any disadvantage to using the braided-steel flexible brake lines for the whole system instead of routing this hard line (be it steel or NiCopp)? The inner diameter of the hard lines seems way smaller than the braided lines - does this have a big effect on your brakes? Is it important to have hard lines for hydraulic reasons, or just mechanical sturdiness?
When it comes to hydraulic lines you want to minimize the use of soft lines. Soft lines are less durable and can expand under pressure. Using too much soft line can make the system feel "spongy" under hard braking. You want as much energy transferred to your brake piston instead of being wasted on hose expansion.
You possibly could but because it is flexible and would expand under pressure it would give you a spongy soft pedal
Locktite hydraulic sealant would be a good replacement for the Teflon tape in this application plus the added advantage of not having unsightly white tape on the fittings
Good tip, thanks!
Totally wrong never use single flares on brake pipes always double flare also never use thread nylon tape on brakes all dangerous practices 49 years as a brake specialist
I have a similar flare tool. I was going to use SS line but switched to NiCopp. I had ABSOLUTELY no luck double flaring it. Perhaps it's easier with a single flare and AN fittings. SS line is hard stuff.
wow, 88 dislikes? Hard crowd here I guess. lol, anyway.. Thanks for taking the time to make this video! clean work and lots of good ideas!! Loved it!
Thanks for watching!
Very informative, you just solved most of my brake line problems, thank you. Add more videos, if available.
Very neat fabrication.
Nice work. I use nickel copper tubing in industrial heat exchangers and it's tough as nail.
+BustedWalletGarage That's pretty dang cool!
Outstanding video!!!!!!
Wow, thanks!
Only one thing I would change. You should not use steel supports on copper brake line. Two dissimulation metals will cause a galvanic reaction. A simple fix is to use rubber insert straps to support the lines. Everything else looks great. Nice job.
Great video. Just a suggestion, next time you might wanna consider placing the T split for the front brakes in the middle of the firewall of the car in order to have equal length brake lines to both front wheels, as fluid as good as it is still has some dampening to it. Ideally you would wanna place the T above the engine, for servicing purposes.
LOL
You need a cable channel! EXCELLENT video!
How about this... I'll just keep making videos here and trying to grow the channel enough to do even more!
Thanks for watching and the kind words!
@autoedit...sure wish you would give more detail in the narrative about the parts and tools you used. I had never heard of Rivet Nuts until I watched this video...what tool are you using and where did you get it from? What about the anchors you used to attach the hardline to the firewall (I think you said you got them from Lokar)? I am in the middle of making the lines for the brake system on my 65 Fastback and you have me rethinking my approach. I have a conventional Master Cylinder and adjustable Proportioning valve. Wondering if I can use AN fittings like you did instead of the conventional break fittings.
You have single handedly alleviated my fears of doing brake lines! Ill look into that NiCop lines as well. also where did you get all of your fittings? have been thinking about using AN3 simply because i dont have to double flare them.
I got most of my fittings from summitracing.com just search for -3 AN So far everything is holding up pretty good so far!
@@AutoEdits Hey what about the little circles they put in oem hardlines, for example in my D22 Frontier when the hardline leaves the master cylinder it takes a few loops and then moves to the respective caliper, any thoughts of doing or not doing that?
@@faisal3398 Those loops are there to absorb vibration in the line before going to the master cylinder. It's not mandatory but a good idea. Just gives a bit extra material. I used the flex lines and a bulkhead near the masters to accomplish the same thing but "cheated" by using high quality steel braided line.
@@AutoEdits I wondered why you used the flex lines, they technically would make the brakes a bit more spongy, you said for serviceability but the hardlines could be moved enough.
Anyway I see people doing just straight hardlines no flex no loops and they seem fine.
@@faisal3398 Rubber flex lines make for spongy brake pedal feel. This application has an extremely firm pedal... I love it. Do whatever you want.
Hey.
I just noticed this channel by accident yesterday and you have some seriously good stuff.
I was just wondering if you could number your EP's so that it gets easier to get a overview on all of your videos, because these mustang vids are really good.
Very nice job Dude, the people that design cars don't know this or maybe they do and do it just to cause early failures however dissimilar metals in contact with each other erode sometime very quickly, even steel and stainless steel. One of the most volatile connections is Aluminum and Copper since it been two years since you made this video I would be interest to see what those connections look like. I this case strong nylon material would be better.
Hey man can i just come by your house and you show me everything you did to your car to my 73 convertible lol! I have zero room in my garage, no tools, and n money. SOL....Great series, love the big body mustangs!
Your pretty much doing everything i wanna do to my car.
very nice set up. I have been playing with the idea of upgrading some of my brake system on my 85 k20 suburban. I would keep most of the hard lines but use flex lines off the master and the calipers
love the looks of it, where did you get your fittings and lines?
Combination of Summit racing and JEGS
@@AutoEdits okey, thanks
So you don't double flare the high pressure brake lines? All brake line should have double flares
Amazing looking.
Thank you! Cheers!
Recently subscribed! I like your series Jason! I also have a Dodge Ram Crew..2500. And a 1991 YJ...cheers man!
Nice video... would be nice to source your parts in the description so others who want to do something similar will know what you bought. Otherwise, great info. thanks
I can get the parts, hit me up
@@arnaldograceski6185 can you tell me all the fittings that he used?
Email me s7racingtec@gmail.com
Great video! I’m a DIY guy also. I’m just a little confused on what fittings to search for. Is it npt fittings or an-3 fittings or is it all together npt an-3 fittings? I’d appreciate any help.
If you're really new... stick with inverted flare fittings at the ends. I used -3 AN for most of the fittings in this install and the only NPT was into the calipers bodies and master cylinders.
@@AutoEdits Ok. Thanks
Good video! Super helpful!
Glad you think so!
Happy to join your channel
Welcome and thanks!