They counted the bullet holes in bombers that made it back to the base. Surprisingly there were very few hits in the engines or the cockpit area...imagine!
I’m so glad I found this channel. I subscribed within 15 seconds of this video. Also, “You don’t hear about the failures because those people are dead” absolutely killed me. Keep it up. 🙌🏻
To be completely honest after what I just went through relocating an HCU on an ABS unit in Mercury Marauder for a Eaton swap I actually don’t think I could pay someone to do it correctly. I used Copper coated steel lines.
It DOES cost an ungodly amount of money because it is still time consuming even with the modernized tool and material advancements. You can now get a higher quality job done but not necessarily cheaper.
Bro.... you are the definition of AI... (ACTUAL INTELLIGENCE) and much appreciated. Both from an intellectual and facetious standpoint. Keep it coming man.
I swear you can read my mind... I'm in the planning stages of my build while I save up for a wedding, and I found your channel from your re-wire your whole damn car video. Yesterday I was planning brake system and wondering what I needed to do to make it from scratch. Now here you are again. Thank you!
@@daleolson3506 sad when I hear guys who resent their wives telling young guys not to get married. My future wife took out loans to pay for the majority of ours so I can save up for car parts. She supported me when I told her, while trying to pay for the wedding, that I was going to buy a rusty BMW from 84 with no engine or interior. Sounds like you picked a bad apple. No woman is worth rolling over for and sacrificing the things that make you happy.
On our first date, my crappy old car's starter failed. My wife crawled under the car with a wrench, removed the starter, we took it to the junkyard & bought a re-built, then she crawled back under the car and installed it. Married that woman!
Straight silicone grease, like Dow D111 or a good quality silicone dielectric grease, does not react with brake fluid and attack rubber parts. Make absolutely certain it does not contain any petroleum products in it. I've been using it when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders as a professional mechanic for 30+ years without issue. In fact, it will greatly extent the function of brake cylinders as it completely prevents corrosion. Not to mention re-assembly is much improved. I also use it when flaring and on the threads of bleeder screws to act as a viscous gasket when bleeding brakes. Works awesome. Just thought I'd pass on a a piece of knowledge. Just watched a few of your videos. I'm new to the channel. Subed.
Good comment on the Dow product? I used it on many application where a rubber gasket in plumbing is in contact with water 100% of the time and when coated with Dow the material is never degraded by the water. Wall hung urinals have a rubber cone gasket and once coated seem to last forever. You comment gave me other ideas.
I put a thin film of Never Seize on the bleeder threads . When replacing brake lines , hoses , calipers or wheel cylinders , I also put Never Seize on the threads . A little insurance in the Northeast against corrosion .
If you are inclined to incorporate loops into the lines, orient them horizontally so as not to trap bubbles. The self (gravity) bleeding advantage of mounting the master cylinder high on the firewall is lost if little bubble traps are built into the lines.
@@mikec555555 vertically is the bad thing like at 6:05. The air bubbles from somewhere down below will travel upwards and get stuck in the first loop at the top. That is why Nate Steiner said to orient them horizontally
@@mikec555555 the main confusion i see here is on what axis people consider the loop to be oriented. I imagine it's orientation being the axis an imaginary axle would point if you made it snug to the inside of the coil, like an electromagnet. Other people seem to see what orientation the lines themselves go up and down towards.
Hi , I've been working on and making brake pipes since the 1970s and have seen many horrible examples from so called professional workshops. It's so good to see someone who is proud to display their work for the whole internet to view.......I agree with your method's and uphold your workmanship and examples. Please carry on and perhaps people will once again find pride in their work ..😀😀😀
Austrian here: Hey, Matt - Chop an old Jag up, or weld a Marcuswagen to a Model S Tesla and install a Lada engine into it for the lolz - fine - but NEVER dare to call this abomination, you posted a Schnitzel! NEVER! It has "Tunke" (Sauce) on it! Tunke makes the bread crumb coating on it go all soft and spongy and just awful! Schnitzel are to be touched by salt and a hint of lemon juice - nothing more! Only then, the delicious crunchiness of the coating, the freshness of the lemon, and the subtle taste of the salt can truly be enjoyed! ;) (This is meant to be funny. Background is, that Germans love their Schnitzel with Sauce, while Austrians HATE sauce on breadcrumb coated Schnitzel. And because we are still a little bit bitter about living in the rotting insignificant remains of a once world power, we like to try to force our way on everyone else. Especially, when it comes to a meal, thats named after our capital - Wiener Schnitzel - never mind, that we stole that from Milano.) But honestly: Enjoy your Schnitzel,your brake lines or your car the way you like it - even with Tunke, .... :) And keep your work up - we love it :)
Also Austrian here As said, pretty much only salt and lemon juice are allowed to be added. But it is common to also add a little bit of stewed cranberries ("Preiselbeerkompott"). In case someone wants a little bit of sweetness.
German here. I never understood why anyone wants sauce on their schnitzel. There's even a thing called "Jägerschnitzel" with that ugly, bad tasting brown sauce on it. I prefer the austrian way: schnitzel (salt+lemon) and fried potatoes with bacon. It's just amazing
German here ... this is a Stereotype about Germans. We NEVER eat Schnitzel with Sauce. Only a dish called "Jägerschnitzel" needs a Sauce cause it has NO breadcrumb Coating !
Name one other site on the interwebs where one can learn about brakes and German fare all on one post. I'll wait patiently. Oddly enough, I'm German, and I'm not certain I've ever had a Schnitzel. ...or Tunke... ...I do have brakes, though.
You were spot on about the flaring tool. As a hobbyist, I hesitated to buy it as it does have a huge price tag. But as the saying goes - if you buy cheaply, you pay dearly. Today, I did my first brake line for my Morgan 4/4 and the flaring tool you recommended made it super simple. Without this video - I might not have dared to tackle this task myself. Greetings from the DIN motherland and a huge Thank you.
As a retired tech I have to say this was all spot on info, except for one (absent) point. During your test drive you should work your way up to a full blown two feet on the pedal panic stop. If something is going to pop, you want it to happen during a test, not when fate chooses the worst possible time.
Dude...your information is spot on...sense of humor is on target...did I learn something, YES? Check twice when sliding on the nut, that its not backwards....Ugh! I did this twice.
I use an old double flaring tool like the 14.99 one you show on steel and the copper/nickel lines. I get every flare right the first time. The key is to cut the end square, deburr the inside and slightly chamfer the outside.
Yep. I heard that part and cringed. It's not a tool issue; it's an operator issue. The key is to understand how to use the tool. First step on the cheap handheld tool's instructions for double flaring: "1. Straighten tubing as much as possible. Make clean cut straight across tube to avoid a crooked flare. Deburr inner and outer edges." My thought. The guy goes over spending money on tools and suggests you buy an expensive amazon cheap tool that carries a large price tag that he has an affiliate link for instead of the harbor freight one for 1/10th of the price.
If you're getting great results, that's fantastic. Keep doing what you're doing. I cut it square, debarred, and chamfered, but I'm still not satisfied with the result. I get two protruding nubs where the crack is between the two hinged parts. They probably don't pose any real problem, it just seems Micky Mouse to me. Yes, I tightened the heck out of everything and followed the instructions to the letter.
This is an amazing video, didn't have to hear about aunt Mae's goiter or your life's history, just got right to the point and gave clear instructions at a good pace. Thanks
Never thought about making break lines because always thought you needed like expensive special tools to bend the pipes, same with flaring the pipes. Now watching this video makes it very very doable and not so expensive. How cool.
As I get older I find I like less and less people that I meet or watch on RUclips but you my friend I like. Great instructional video straight to the point videos all dialed in your like the Alton Brown of brake lines
Some dual-cylinder brakes use a cross-over separation, rather than a front/rear split. (I.e. one drives Left front & right rear brake, the other right front and left rear.) That way, the result is a degraded but still balanced (half) system, less likely to misbehave than if one end's down..
I don't know if this is Deja vu, or if this thread was copied verbatum elsewhere, because I remember these exact words, followed by a LONG thread arguing over which is better. I remember the conclusion being that it was a horrible Idea. Lol
Then you have newer cars with abs modules that have a brake line going to each wheel separately from the abs module. This is because abs modules run double duty as part of the three stability and trac control system.
@@notsam498 Yes, I want to say pretty much every new car today has an ABS distribution block, which facilitates 4-channel ABS for now mandatory traction and stability control.
Matt, thank you for a fantastic tutorial on creating brake lines. I feel empowered to take on the job of repairing the lines on my BMW E46 after watching! Greatly appreciate the thoroughness....
Thank You for a Great video! I twisted a wrench professionally for a number of years and brakes were one of my specialties. After watching this, I have to say, this is one of the most inclusive and succinct videos on brakes I've seen. You covered the basics and nailed the details. My 65 EV Ranchero is setup very much the same...... again Great Job!
Love this guy. Nothing better than watching to-the-point videos from a smart guy with a rye sense of humor. I clicked on this video because I'm a sucker for any title with the word "easy" in it. Such as, "Easy way to make $100K per week selling dentle floss out of your garage!" What a scam that was. Subscribed.
You are indeed the most humble person on RUclips, sir! I giggled out loud when you said "A-mazing" because your delivery was so chill even though you just did boss-level shit. Thanks for making these videos
I have to say, this video came out at a good time. Replacing the 56 year old lines on my MGB was not really something I was looking forward to. I purchased the bulk line some time ago, now I know which tool I need to do the flaring. Thanks for posting this.
I remember "Pump it!, I did!, Did you pump it?! Yes, I pumped it! OK hold it! I'm holding it! Did it go to the floor?? I think so! Do you feel any pedal?! I don't know! For Petes sake! "
Still doing the "press and hold the brake pedal for bleeding" thing with my dad. He's only 73 years old. When you have two knowledgeable people doing the job, pressing the brake pedal method is very fast and requires practically no setup.
I spend way too much time watching automotive RUclips, specially in the car modification niche and you by far have the best commentary to go along with your interesting builds
Thanks for enlightening a few more people on the concept of survivorship bias today. I've been watching a lot off tool reviews and the amount of "they don't make like like they used to" comments has my nasuea at a pretty high level atm.
Best video on this topic. I was struggling with one of the old style flaring tools and assumed I was just a moron with no skill. Turns out it's a garbage tool! Who knew a tool designed 130 years ago wasn't so great anymore?
I've been using the Titan 51535 double flaring tool. It's been making perfect flares for me and you can make flares while the brake lines are on the car. The OEM Tools flaring tool can't make consistent flares compared to Titan. I'm also very surprised it only costs $40.
There's automatic proportion valve for the rear, also called fifth valve in some areas, to compensate brake force in correlation to load to the rear axle. It has a physical link/lever to transfer axle/body gap to the valve thus knowing the load.
Damn, you are a good teacher. I wish more car channels were like this. I feel like I learned something, even though I already knew everything you said, but like separately, not together.
Very informative, and very funny. I hope I don't ever really have to do this, but now I have an idea of what's involved. Most of my Ethernet cables don't have one of those little boot thingies for the same reason why you are required to forget one nut before flaring.
Everything you said is true… Wanting a refresher on running brake lines. All the mistakes you mentioned? Sitting here shaking my head. Yep, I remember doing that. Doh! Well done video.
It's quite nice to watch a video and think "thank goodness, I did it right". Also quite nice to see that someone else thinks the tool you find difficult to use is difficult to use!
The flaring tool you show is great for making new lines on a build project... But pretty useless for repairs where a splice is needed to a line still on a car. There are great tools for that, and although a bit clumsy because of size, work fantastic. I use a Mastercool hydraulic tool, and am very happy with the results I get. (If I remember to put on the flare-nut)
I use a scrap of solid copper electrical wire to establish the length of brake line required. Using the wire proxy as a reference, I can then complete both ends of the new line in the vise before beginning installation.
Im building a classic car with little automotive experience , but plenty of industrial mechanic, machining and fabrication experience and I love how these videos are technical but still break down the automotive stuff to ppl like me. Excellent videos and the jokes got me cracking up over here!
The word you're looking for regarding German standards is "precise" The Germans as a people are well known for their adherence to the letter of the law, if not the spirit so much, and as such they make sure the letter is so ironclad and immovable that there can be no cheekiness around specifics of this or that.
And thats also why Germans will never have: Customs, hot rods, budget race cars, tuners, grassroots motorsport or any form of automotive creativity just like in videos of SuperfastMatt.
Nice to see new and clean brake lines and fittings. BUT, I'm trying to repair the stuck and very badly rusted frame and brake lines of my '93 (YES. 1993) GMC Jimmy. I replaced the line from the ABS system to the right front brake. 72 inches long with several bends. This line was flared at both ends and came with the nuts on the line. I was pleased to learn of the newer lines that bend without collapsing. I don't have all the expensive tools as I don't plan to spend the rest of my life replacing brake lines. I do have a vacuum pump. But it kept sucking air into the pump instead of fluid. One suggestion was to put a bit of grease on the nut to prevent sucking air. But that didn't work either. Then I resorted to a clear line and jar, and pumped the brakes to force fluid into the jar without it sucking air. I must do all this by myself. I'm here on YT as I am waiting for the penetrating solvent to maybe free up the fittings. No car lift. I must jack up the Jimmy, with jack stands and concrete blocks, and then crawl around on the floor under it, with the crap falling into my face.
Hey, Lada Nivas have BOTH brake circuits go to the front calipers...as I found out when one OEM front right brake hose let go at the crimp...after 19 years...but I still had brake effort from that caliper from the second circuit! Of course, being Russian, no replacement crimp fitting was available... so the brake professional reused and recrimped the original fitting.... tested it to 3000psi...good to go...
I used a compression fitting cause I couldn’t flare it right. Well I found out my problem. I was only doing a single flare. That’s why it leaked! Thank you!!!
I'd rather not do that... Usually the brake hose connections should be able to withstand at least ~100bar (1450psi) and a lot of vibration. Usually compression fittings are less than ideal for this application ;)
@@Shoopadawhoopa Rated for 2000 to 15k psig, depending on what you choose, also built so finely that doing other fittings feels like banging rocks by comparison. But thats just joking around, for brakes I'd use brake stuff - compatible and commonly available.
Okay, I gotta get this out of my system- You're not using imperial. You're using US customary. To be fair, there's no difference between a US inch and an imperial inch (it's internationally standardized), but there's a big difference when you're talking about volume. A US gallon is about 3.79 liters. An imperial gallon is about 4.55 liters. A US pint (≈ 473.18 mL) divides into 16 US fluid ounces (≈ 29.57 mL each). An imperial pint (≈ 568.26 mL) divides into 20 imperial fluid ounces (≈ 28.41 mL each). Okay, I feel better now. Happy #PrideMonth.
Thanks for the brilliant videos. I've watched 750 of them so far. I actually have my first polite suggestion I learnt from air conditioning land. When you're de-burring the flare, I usually try to do it upside down so that any bits of metal that come off fall to the ground, rather than falling into the brake line and eventually meeting with the softest part of your caliper piston seals :) I realise this is an old video, but I only just watched it. Thanks for all your educational content and your brilliant dry sense of humour. Are you sure you're not British? :)
I did the old school brake bleed system for years even working in a brake shop. Then once I was stuck without anyone to pump the pedal after repairs so i removed the bleeder on one wheel at a time when i saw the bleeder hole fill with fluid I put the bleeder back. Afterwards I checked the pedal hardness and I was surprised that it was excellent. I gently test drove and it was very good, so I drove and braked a little harder, still very good. I was going to arrange for a friend to help with a bleed the following weekend but the brakes were so good that I didn't do it. I have now done this many times even on ABS brakes and i have never been disappointed with brake performance. I would certainly do it differently if I encountered any problem. Keep in mind I only repair a single brake at a time, not disassembling and draining 2 or 4 brakes at once, and keeping the master cyl cover on and full to reduce leakage until the line is connected again. Complete one wheel then move on to the next, i don't remove the brake line until I know I am prepped and ready to connect the new part.
I replaced more brake lines on American cars than I care to remember. Living in the north where they use salt on the roads, brake lines would rust away in a few years. I used the pre-cut pre-flared lines and unions to get close to the correct length, then either bent a zig zag or a loop to use up the extra length. I did lots of the two-person method of bleeding brakes, both as the person pressing the brake pedal and as the person under the car opening and closing the bleeder valve. I've tried the small hand pumped vacuum systems and never had much luck with them. I really like your idea of wrapping Teflon tape on the bleeder threads. The last time I replaced calipers the rebuilt calipers had threads for the bleeder valves that were very loose. As soon as I would open the valve, fluid would leak out around the threads and air would get sucked back in. It was very frustrating. Plus, I'm guessing that the Teflon tape will help to keep the threads dry and dirt and rust free. I also like the idea of the automatic bleeder valves. I had never heard of those. Lastly, how does the copper/nickel lines compare to stainless for corrosion resistance? It has been decades since I've had a brake line rust through, so I'm guessing that whatever they are using these days is a whole lot better than what they used in the 1990s or earlier.
Thanks for your video, great information. As a mechanical fitter we used copper tube for machine lube lines and to straighten out the copper tube we would use a flat pies of wood and tap the copper tube while rotating it on a hard flat surface like a bench and this will give you straight tubing, hope this helps.
If you have to make repair flares on a vehicle the Titan flare tools work great in tight spaces even on stainless brakes line. Some of the RUclips videos make you think it's physically hard to flare stainless brake lines but I found it to be pretty easy (with the Titan tool). I'm converting the rear drum brakes on my 1980 Chevy K20 to disk brakes and you have to replace the 3/16" steel brake lines on the differential. I had to replace a short piece of 1/4" 409 stainless and I used the Titan flare tool (for 1/4") to do it. I used stainless unions and fittings because you really have to tighten them good. I bought just about everything you suggested. I love the nickel/copper brake lines and flaring tool you used in this video. Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool
I have a new old 95 Subaru wagon and will need to make some brake lines in the future. Like many RUclips videos you have made a difficult job seem doable, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
my tool man introduced me to a sur&r hydraulic flaring tool. works just as good as that Easton unit but costs 3x as much and doesn't need a vice. I love it.
Cheapest and best method of bleeding that i've figured out is to use an appropriate length of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeder valve, run that loop and and back down in order to create an air lock, and then place the other end in an empty container. After that, you just open the valve and start pumping the brakes. The air lock will keep fluid on top of the bleeder so that any minor back flow doesn't suck in any air, and this eliminates the need to open, pump, hold, close, release, and repeat. The reason i prefer this method over a vacuum bleeder is because the vacuum bleeder tends to pull air past the threads on the bleeder valve which leaves you wondering if you've still got air in the system.
Interesting that copper brake lines are considered a no-no in the USA. They are very common elsewhere in the world, including Europe; here in the UK, they are completely legal and are not considered to be any kind of safety hazard (some vehicles come from the factory with copper lines), but compression fittings are illegal in brake lines, whereas they appear to legal in some US states.
Beautifully done info video! (50 years in fleet maintenance - now retired. And my wife from Korea makes great Schnitzel too! Lived in Germany for a total of 14.5 years! 😍)
Thank you for the video. Going to redo mine with stainless. Already have everything except the time. All the flexible I went OEM. You've helped me restore my Japanese KEI truck. 👍.
"This is called survivorship bias. You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead."
Heh.
There are old pilots and there are foolish pilots. There are no old, foolish pilots.
@@mikeincinci The old saying is bold pilots, not foolish pilots. Makes a bit more sense that way.
So I should check how old my pilot light is on the water heater?
@@deankay4434 No, you should check how bold it is, you S.O.B.
They counted the bullet holes in bombers that made it back to the base.
Surprisingly there were very few hits in the engines or the cockpit area...imagine!
I’m blown away by how concise and useful this video is. No music, no yucking it up, no nonsense
I’m so glad I found this channel. I subscribed within 15 seconds of this video. Also, “You don’t hear about the failures because those people are dead” absolutely killed me. Keep it up. 🙌🏻
We shouldn't hear from you cause you were killed. Just saying...
@@botcontador3286 huh?
@@yutub561 Collin said the joke "killed" him. That is why I said we should not be hearing from him. Ok, granted, stupid joke of mine.
@@botcontador3286 I'm facepalming at myself for not getting it sooner...
Fancy seeing you here lol
Loving your content dude, especially the odd dose of dry humour 🤘 - Taz.
I just spent ungodly amount of money to get new brake lines done and this video just adds salt to my wounds. Still funny tho
Зато тормоза работают)
Mechanics need to make their money somehow! Haha
To be fair, it does take a significant amount of time
Do a set before you get upset. It's not so easy on a production vehicle.
To be completely honest after what I just went through relocating an HCU on an ABS unit in Mercury Marauder for a Eaton swap I actually don’t think I could pay someone to do it correctly. I used Copper coated steel lines.
It DOES cost an ungodly amount of money because it is still time consuming even with the modernized tool and material advancements. You can now get a higher quality job done but not necessarily cheaper.
Bro.... you are the definition of AI... (ACTUAL INTELLIGENCE) and much appreciated. Both from an intellectual and facetious standpoint. Keep it coming man.
Here for the jokes. Somebody else does my brake lines. Thanks.
Berni is here all week. Try the veal
Same, and totally worth it.
If someone else does the brakes for you, they should stop.
@@12x2richter they do stop, never had a brake failure. Who builds the short bus you ride in?
@@bernibeckmann9753 Did you... did you not get the joke he made? And you repeated?
I love the "you know what, I'm just gonna buy one." Motive pressure bleeder has saved me soo much time on all sorts of jobs.
I swear you can read my mind... I'm in the planning stages of my build while I save up for a wedding, and I found your channel from your re-wire your whole damn car video. Yesterday I was planning brake system and wondering what I needed to do to make it from scratch. Now here you are again. Thank you!
Consider it a wedding gift. Congratulations!
@@SuperfastMatt thanks! Keep up the awesome work
Quick get your project done,and drive as far away as possible. Do not get married.
@@daleolson3506 sad when I hear guys who resent their wives telling young guys not to get married. My future wife took out loans to pay for the majority of ours so I can save up for car parts. She supported me when I told her, while trying to pay for the wedding, that I was going to buy a rusty BMW from 84 with no engine or interior. Sounds like you picked a bad apple. No woman is worth rolling over for and sacrificing the things that make you happy.
On our first date, my crappy old car's starter failed. My wife crawled under the car with a wrench, removed the starter, we took it to the junkyard & bought a re-built, then she crawled back under the car and installed it. Married that woman!
Straight silicone grease, like Dow D111 or a good quality silicone dielectric grease, does not react with brake fluid and attack rubber parts. Make absolutely certain it does not contain any petroleum products in it. I've been using it when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders as a professional mechanic for 30+ years without issue. In fact, it will greatly extent the function of brake cylinders as it completely prevents corrosion. Not to mention re-assembly is much improved. I also use it when flaring and on the threads of bleeder screws to act as a viscous gasket when bleeding brakes. Works awesome. Just thought I'd pass on a a piece of knowledge. Just watched a few of your videos. I'm new to the channel. Subed.
Good comment on the Dow product? I used it on many application where a rubber gasket in plumbing is in contact with water 100% of the time and when coated with Dow the material is never degraded by the water. Wall hung urinals have a rubber cone gasket and once coated seem to last forever. You comment gave me other ideas.
I put a thin film of Never Seize on the bleeder threads . When replacing brake lines , hoses , calipers or wheel cylinders , I also put Never Seize on the threads . A little insurance in the Northeast against corrosion .
If you are inclined to incorporate loops into the lines, orient them horizontally so as not to trap bubbles. The self (gravity) bleeding advantage of mounting the master cylinder high on the firewall is lost if little bubble traps are built into the lines.
Don't you mean vertically?
@@mikec555555 vertically is the bad thing like at 6:05. The air bubbles from somewhere down below will travel upwards and get stuck in the first loop at the top. That is why Nate Steiner said to orient them horizontally
Yup, that's the way I've always seen it on OEMs over the years.
@@mikec555555 the main confusion i see here is on what axis people consider the loop to be oriented.
I imagine it's orientation being the axis an imaginary axle would point if you made it snug to the inside of the coil, like an electromagnet.
Other people seem to see what orientation the lines themselves go up and down towards.
Good point
Hi , I've been working on and making brake pipes since the 1970s and have seen many horrible examples from so called professional workshops. It's so good to see someone who is proud to display their work for the whole internet to view.......I agree with your method's and uphold your workmanship and examples. Please carry on and perhaps people will once again find pride in their work ..😀😀😀
Austrian here:
Hey, Matt - Chop an old Jag up, or weld a Marcuswagen to a Model S Tesla and install a Lada engine into it for the lolz - fine - but NEVER dare to call this abomination, you posted a Schnitzel! NEVER! It has "Tunke" (Sauce) on it! Tunke makes the bread crumb coating on it go all soft and spongy and just awful! Schnitzel are to be touched by salt and a hint of lemon juice - nothing more! Only then, the delicious crunchiness of the coating, the freshness of the lemon, and the subtle taste of the salt can truly be enjoyed!
;)
(This is meant to be funny. Background is, that Germans love their Schnitzel with Sauce, while Austrians HATE sauce on breadcrumb coated Schnitzel. And because we are still a little bit bitter about living in the rotting insignificant remains of a once world power, we like to try to force our way on everyone else. Especially, when it comes to a meal, thats named after our capital - Wiener Schnitzel - never mind, that we stole that from Milano.)
But honestly: Enjoy your Schnitzel,your brake lines or your car the way you like it - even with Tunke, .... :) And keep your work up - we love it :)
Also Austrian here
As said, pretty much only salt and lemon juice are allowed to be added. But it is common to also add a little bit of stewed cranberries ("Preiselbeerkompott"). In case someone wants a little bit of sweetness.
German here. I never understood why anyone wants sauce on their schnitzel. There's even a thing called "Jägerschnitzel" with that ugly, bad tasting brown sauce on it. I prefer the austrian way: schnitzel (salt+lemon) and fried potatoes with bacon. It's just amazing
German here ... this is a Stereotype about Germans. We NEVER eat Schnitzel with Sauce. Only a dish called "Jägerschnitzel" needs a Sauce cause it has NO breadcrumb Coating !
Funny, speaking as an American it doesn't look ANYTHING like what you get at the Wienerschnitzel.
Name one other site on the interwebs where one can learn about brakes and German fare all on one post. I'll wait patiently.
Oddly enough, I'm German, and I'm not certain I've ever had a Schnitzel. ...or Tunke...
...I do have brakes, though.
Researching RUclips pays off. This is exactly how I plan to replace the brake lines on my 94 Toyota pickup. This was also very entertaining.
I'm actually working with DIN/EN/ISO standards and OEM parts at our software company here in Germany so the brake line flare bit made me chuckle :)
You were spot on about the flaring tool. As a hobbyist, I hesitated to buy it as it does have a huge price tag. But as the saying goes - if you buy cheaply, you pay dearly. Today, I did my first brake line for my Morgan 4/4 and the flaring tool you recommended made it super simple. Without this video - I might not have dared to tackle this task myself. Greetings from the DIN motherland and a huge Thank you.
As a retired tech I have to say this was all spot on info, except for one (absent) point. During your test drive you should work your way up to a full blown two feet on the pedal panic stop. If something is going to pop, you want it to happen during a test, not when fate chooses the worst possible time.
Dude...your information is spot on...sense of humor is on target...did I learn something, YES? Check twice when sliding on the nut, that its not backwards....Ugh! I did this twice.
I use an old double flaring tool like the 14.99 one you show on steel and the copper/nickel lines. I get every flare right the first time. The key is to cut the end square, deburr the inside and slightly chamfer the outside.
Yep. I heard that part and cringed. It's not a tool issue; it's an operator issue. The key is to understand how to use the tool.
First step on the cheap handheld tool's instructions for double flaring:
"1. Straighten tubing as much as possible. Make clean cut straight across tube to avoid a crooked flare. Deburr inner and outer edges."
My thought. The guy goes over spending money on tools and suggests you buy an expensive amazon cheap tool that carries a large price tag that he has an affiliate link for instead of the harbor freight one for 1/10th of the price.
If you're getting great results, that's fantastic. Keep doing what you're doing. I cut it square, debarred, and chamfered, but I'm still not satisfied with the result. I get two protruding nubs where the crack is between the two hinged parts. They probably don't pose any real problem, it just seems Micky Mouse to me. Yes, I tightened the heck out of everything and followed the instructions to the letter.
I like your style. Your casual attitude and narrating is entertaining! Plus I learned a few things along the way! Thanks Matt.
This is an amazing video, didn't have to hear about aunt Mae's goiter or your life's history, just got right to the point and gave clear instructions at a good pace. Thanks
Never thought about making break lines because always thought you needed like expensive special tools to bend the pipes, same with flaring the pipes. Now watching this video makes it very very doable and not so expensive. How cool.
This is a DIN-standardized German comment for the algorithm.
All hale the DIN
Was ist das denn? Was ist geschehen?
HANZ GET ZE DIN EN ISO 9001!
Wer ist dieser Norm von dem alle sprechen?
Fantastisch
As I get older I find I like less and less people that I meet or watch on RUclips but you my friend I like. Great instructional video straight to the point videos all dialed in your like the Alton Brown of brake lines
Some dual-cylinder brakes use a cross-over separation, rather than a front/rear split. (I.e. one drives Left front & right rear brake, the other right front and left rear.) That way, the result is a degraded but still balanced (half) system, less likely to misbehave than if one end's down..
Also double X / double H / Triangle (volvo) patterns exist on higher end, faster or heavier vehicules !
AMC did this with their cars.
I don't know if this is Deja vu, or if this thread was copied verbatum elsewhere, because I remember these exact words, followed by a LONG thread arguing over which is better. I remember the conclusion being that it was a horrible Idea. Lol
Then you have newer cars with abs modules that have a brake line going to each wheel separately from the abs module. This is because abs modules run double duty as part of the three stability and trac control system.
@@notsam498 Yes, I want to say pretty much every new car today has an ABS distribution block, which facilitates 4-channel ABS for now mandatory traction and stability control.
Matt, thank you for a fantastic tutorial on creating brake lines. I feel empowered to take on the job of repairing the lines on my BMW E46 after watching! Greatly appreciate the thoroughness....
Thank You for a Great video! I twisted a wrench professionally for a number of years and brakes were one of my specialties. After watching this, I have to say, this is one of the most inclusive and succinct videos on brakes I've seen. You covered the basics and nailed the details. My 65 EV Ranchero is setup very much the same...... again Great Job!
Love this guy. Nothing better than watching to-the-point videos from a smart guy with a rye sense of humor. I clicked on this video because I'm a sucker for any title with the word "easy" in it. Such as, "Easy way to make $100K per week selling dentle floss out of your garage!" What a scam that was. Subscribed.
Great tip on using a dab of break fluid while flaring! I've also gravity bled brakes-to rid the system of air, it helps. Still need to bleed.
You are indeed the most humble person on RUclips, sir! I giggled out loud when you said "A-mazing" because your delivery was so chill even though you just did boss-level shit. Thanks for making these videos
I have to say, this video came out at a good time. Replacing the 56 year old lines on my MGB was not really something I was looking forward to. I purchased the bulk line some time ago, now I know which tool I need to do the flaring. Thanks for posting this.
Man I appreciate your knowledge and wit.I have been through 1000's of you tube videos and you are legitimately the King.please accept this👉👑
Pushing the brake pedal for your dad 😂😂😂 Brings back memories...
My teenage daughters are the available source of leg muscle for me 😀
I remember "Pump it!, I did!, Did you pump it?! Yes, I pumped it! OK hold it! I'm holding it! Did it go to the floor?? I think so! Do you feel any pedal?! I don't know! For Petes sake! "
Still doing the "press and hold the brake pedal for bleeding" thing with my dad. He's only 73 years old. When you have two knowledgeable people doing the job, pressing the brake pedal method is very fast and requires practically no setup.
Yeah, I used to press the brake pedal for his dad, too.
I spend way too much time watching automotive RUclips, specially in the car modification niche and you by far have the best commentary to go along with your interesting builds
"You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead" 🤣 I'm stealing that
I wish every video on youtube was this good in giving a lot of good information while telling it in such a funny way! love it!
This comes out right as I'm thinking about replacing the brakes and lines on my car, awesome :)
Is it a Mercedes by any chance? One of the few cars I've seen them actually rot out on...
Thanks for enlightening a few more people on the concept of survivorship bias today. I've been watching a lot off tool reviews and the amount of "they don't make like like they used to" comments has my nasuea at a pretty high level atm.
Very nicely done, Matt. Humorous, succinct, accurate. You nailed it! 😊👍
These videos are a JOY. Just bought a '53 M38A1 Jeep and have lots to do on it. Learning a ton with your videos, and laughing along the way.
What a great video…I am about to make new brake lines for the first time in years, so glad I watched this! Thanks, Matt!
This is a great video man. I'm redoing the brake system on my 74 Cushman Truckster, this will help alot
Excellent show mate. I watch the whole thing smiling. 👍🏽
This guy should be an audiobook narrator. Great video. Great tips.
Commenting for the algorithm, also don't think ive laughed so much at a brake line video so thanks
Best video on this topic. I was struggling with one of the old style flaring tools and assumed I was just a moron with no skill. Turns out it's a garbage tool! Who knew a tool designed 130 years ago wasn't so great anymore?
I've been using the Titan 51535 double flaring tool. It's been making perfect flares for me and you can make flares while the brake lines are on the car. The OEM Tools flaring tool can't make consistent flares compared to Titan. I'm also very surprised it only costs $40.
I use this same Titan flaring tool. It's amazing--and only $45!
Ooops…it went up $5.00 in 9 months…….that sucks like everything else! ✌️
Up to $50 now, of course
All hail the algorithm! Found this channel a week ago, absolutely loving it!
There's automatic proportion valve for the rear, also called fifth valve in some areas, to compensate brake force in correlation to load to the rear axle. It has a physical link/lever to transfer axle/body gap to the valve thus knowing the load.
Seriously wasn’t expecting this. “Get in the car and drive as fast as possible.” Liked and subscribed just from that alone 😂
And that's why your dad left...
I'm dying here, love it. 😁👌
Definitely the BEST DIY video I've seen for brake bleeding.
Dankeschön, from Germany 🇩🇪
DIN TUV DIN TUV DIN TUV :)))
@@terencemalik6415 Wenn schon, dann bitte:TÜV!
Damn, you are a good teacher. I wish more car channels were like this. I feel like I learned something, even though I already knew everything you said, but like separately, not together.
it seems you've missed the part how do I tell if I need a double or bubble flare (i.e. different ports and nuts)
Great video. just long enough to cover all relevant topics, dos and (more importantly) don'ts. Also level of humor is just right. TYVM :)
Very informative, and very funny. I hope I don't ever really have to do this, but now I have an idea of what's involved.
Most of my Ethernet cables don't have one of those little boot thingies for the same reason why you are required to forget one nut before flaring.
Everything you said is true…
Wanting a refresher on running brake lines. All the mistakes you mentioned? Sitting here shaking my head. Yep, I remember doing that. Doh!
Well done video.
Some great lines in this.
It's quite nice to watch a video and think "thank goodness, I did it right".
Also quite nice to see that someone else thinks the tool you find difficult to use is difficult to use!
The flaring tool you show is great for making new lines on a build project... But pretty useless for repairs where a splice is needed to a line still on a car. There are great tools for that, and although a bit clumsy because of size, work fantastic. I use a Mastercool hydraulic tool, and am very happy with the results I get. (If I remember to put on the flare-nut)
Your commentary is absolutely top notch!!! Definitely above German standard.
This channel is sooo fucking good man
It's the best thing since flares, man. ☮️
@@KT-ur7pi
Double-bubble, man....
calm down. it's ok.
@@daos3300 no one cares
This is honestly one of the best videos I've ever watched on RUclips, ever. Amazing, high quality content. Thank you so much. Subbed. ❤
I want a T-shirt that says “all hail the algorithm!”
I'd buy that
@@1one3_Racing As would I.
I use a scrap of solid copper electrical wire to establish the length of brake line required. Using the wire proxy as a reference, I can then complete both ends of the new line in the vise before beginning installation.
I'm pretty straight till I get bent out of shape PMSL #PrideMonth, not that there's anything wrong with that....
Im building a classic car with little automotive experience , but plenty of industrial mechanic, machining and fabrication experience and I love how these videos are technical but still break down the automotive stuff to ppl like me. Excellent videos and the jokes got me cracking up over here!
The word you're looking for regarding German standards is "precise" The Germans as a people are well known for their adherence to the letter of the law, if not the spirit so much, and as such they make sure the letter is so ironclad and immovable that there can be no cheekiness around specifics of this or that.
And thats also why Germans will never have: Customs, hot rods, budget race cars, tuners, grassroots motorsport or any form of automotive creativity just like in videos of
SuperfastMatt.
@@V8interceptorChannel Actually we got most of this. But to get a car street legal in germany can be quite an adventure...
Nice to see new and clean brake lines and fittings. BUT, I'm trying to repair the stuck and very badly rusted frame and brake lines of my '93 (YES. 1993) GMC Jimmy. I replaced the line from the ABS system to the right front brake. 72 inches long with several bends. This line was flared at both ends and came with the nuts on the line. I was pleased to learn of the newer lines that bend without collapsing. I don't have all the expensive tools as I don't plan to spend the rest of my life replacing brake lines. I do have a vacuum pump. But it kept sucking air into the pump instead of fluid. One suggestion was to put a bit of grease on the nut to prevent sucking air. But that didn't work either. Then I resorted to a clear line and jar, and pumped the brakes to force fluid into the jar without it sucking air. I must do all this by myself.
I'm here on YT as I am waiting for the penetrating solvent to maybe free up the fittings. No car lift. I must jack up the Jimmy, with jack stands and concrete blocks, and then crawl around on the floor under it, with the crap falling into my face.
In europe fwd cars usually have brakes on X config. FR + RL and FL + RR wheels.
And thank god for the Germans.
I have a 1991 Fiat in Brazil that works the same.
Hey, Lada Nivas have BOTH brake circuits go to the front calipers...as I found out when one OEM front right brake hose let go at the crimp...after 19 years...but I still had brake effort from that caliper from the second circuit!
Of course, being Russian, no replacement crimp fitting was available...
so the brake professional reused and recrimped the original fitting....
tested it to 3000psi...good to go...
I used a compression fitting cause I couldn’t flare it right. Well I found out my problem. I was only doing a single flare. That’s why it leaked! Thank you!!!
Use compression fittings on my brakelines - laughs in Swagelok.
I'd rather not do that... Usually the brake hose connections should be able to withstand at least ~100bar (1450psi) and a lot of vibration. Usually compression fittings are less than ideal for this application ;)
@@Shoopadawhoopa Rated for 2000 to 15k psig, depending on what you choose, also built so finely that doing other fittings feels like banging rocks by comparison.
But thats just joking around, for brakes I'd use brake stuff - compatible and commonly available.
Found your channel again and you’re giving me the confidence and instruction on how best to start a project. Thank you
Okay, I gotta get this out of my system- You're not using imperial. You're using US customary.
To be fair, there's no difference between a US inch and an imperial inch (it's internationally standardized), but there's a big difference when you're talking about volume.
A US gallon is about 3.79 liters.
An imperial gallon is about 4.55 liters.
A US pint (≈ 473.18 mL) divides into 16 US fluid ounces (≈ 29.57 mL each).
An imperial pint (≈ 568.26 mL) divides into 20 imperial fluid ounces (≈ 28.41 mL each).
Okay, I feel better now. Happy #PrideMonth.
Thanks for the brilliant videos. I've watched 750 of them so far. I actually have my first polite suggestion I learnt from air conditioning land.
When you're de-burring the flare, I usually try to do it upside down so that any bits of metal that come off fall to the ground, rather than falling into the brake line and eventually meeting with the softest part of your caliper piston seals :)
I realise this is an old video, but I only just watched it. Thanks for all your educational content and your brilliant dry sense of humour. Are you sure you're not British? :)
All hail Al Gorithm!!
The exact explanation I’ve been searching for. Getting ready to run all new braking system on an old Jeep. You just cost me a lot of money. Subbed
Walking will save you a lot of money
steel lines are the worst. rusts through in few years on new cars. copper all the way.
Even stainless braid 400 series? Thought those were basically foolproof
I accidentally bought the flare tool you used. I could never go back to anything else. It is awesome!
Hail hail to the Almighty algorithm.
I did the old school brake bleed system for years even working in a brake shop. Then once I was stuck without anyone to pump the pedal after repairs so i removed the bleeder on one wheel at a time when i saw the bleeder hole fill with fluid I put the bleeder back. Afterwards I checked the pedal hardness and I was surprised that it was excellent. I gently test drove and it was very good, so I drove and braked a little harder, still very good. I was going to arrange for a friend to help with a bleed the following weekend but the brakes were so good that I didn't do it. I have now done this many times even on ABS brakes and i have never been disappointed with brake performance. I would certainly do it differently if I encountered any problem. Keep in mind I only repair a single brake at a time, not disassembling and draining 2 or 4 brakes at once, and keeping the master cyl cover on and full to reduce leakage until the line is connected again. Complete one wheel then move on to the next, i don't remove the brake line until I know I am prepped and ready to connect the new part.
Im so mad at past mechanics.
And the engineer who designed the car, WHAT THE FUCK WAS HE THINKING
Absolutely correct, the sequence is measure, cut, flare, recut, install fitting, reflare, and then install.
"I like spending money on tools" *buys Snapon electric stuff that is demonstrably worse than Milwaukee*
Yea Id say you like overpaying for tools too
my dad does them, he's been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and has literally every tool imaginable by man
I replaced more brake lines on American cars than I care to remember. Living in the north where they use salt on the roads, brake lines would rust away in a few years. I used the pre-cut pre-flared lines and unions to get close to the correct length, then either bent a zig zag or a loop to use up the extra length. I did lots of the two-person method of bleeding brakes, both as the person pressing the brake pedal and as the person under the car opening and closing the bleeder valve. I've tried the small hand pumped vacuum systems and never had much luck with them.
I really like your idea of wrapping Teflon tape on the bleeder threads. The last time I replaced calipers the rebuilt calipers had threads for the bleeder valves that were very loose. As soon as I would open the valve, fluid would leak out around the threads and air would get sucked back in. It was very frustrating. Plus, I'm guessing that the Teflon tape will help to keep the threads dry and dirt and rust free. I also like the idea of the automatic bleeder valves. I had never heard of those.
Lastly, how does the copper/nickel lines compare to stainless for corrosion resistance? It has been decades since I've had a brake line rust through, so I'm guessing that whatever they are using these days is a whole lot better than what they used in the 1990s or earlier.
As soon as you said you were cranking rear brake down to do sick burnouts...I'm in!
Thanks for your video, great information. As a mechanical fitter we used copper tube for machine lube lines and to straighten out the copper tube we would use a flat pies of wood and tap the copper tube while rotating it on a hard flat surface like a bench and this will give you straight tubing, hope this helps.
If you have to make repair flares on a vehicle the Titan flare tools work great in tight spaces even on stainless brakes line. Some of the RUclips videos make you think it's physically hard to flare stainless brake lines but I found it to be pretty easy (with the Titan tool). I'm converting the rear drum brakes on my 1980 Chevy K20 to disk brakes and you have to replace the 3/16" steel brake lines on the differential. I had to replace a short piece of 1/4" 409 stainless and I used the Titan flare tool (for 1/4") to do it. I used stainless unions and fittings because you really have to tighten them good. I bought just about everything you suggested. I love the nickel/copper brake lines and flaring tool you used in this video.
Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool
I have a new old 95 Subaru wagon and will need to make some brake lines in the future. Like many RUclips videos you have made a difficult job seem doable, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This is the best break line video, Smart to the point and only the facts, so I wont be one of the dead ones! Thanks
my tool man introduced me to a sur&r hydraulic flaring tool. works just as good as that Easton unit but costs 3x as much and doesn't need a vice. I love it.
Cheapest and best method of bleeding that i've figured out is to use an appropriate length of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeder valve, run that loop and and back down in order to create an air lock, and then place the other end in an empty container. After that, you just open the valve and start pumping the brakes. The air lock will keep fluid on top of the bleeder so that any minor back flow doesn't suck in any air, and this eliminates the need to open, pump, hold, close, release, and repeat. The reason i prefer this method over a vacuum bleeder is because the vacuum bleeder tends to pull air past the threads on the bleeder valve which leaves you wondering if you've still got air in the system.
Hi! Love the video. I own The Stop Shop and I really appreciate you linking our products! Thanks!
Watching this reminds me of when my dad taught me how do do lines on his 97 f150 all by hand thanks for this one!
Interesting that copper brake lines are considered a no-no in the USA. They are very common elsewhere in the world, including Europe; here in the UK, they are completely legal and are not considered to be any kind of safety hazard (some vehicles come from the factory with copper lines), but compression fittings are illegal in brake lines, whereas they appear to legal in some US states.
Beautifully done info video! (50 years in fleet maintenance - now retired. And my wife from Korea makes great Schnitzel too! Lived in Germany for a total of 14.5 years! 😍)
Thank you for the video. Going to redo mine with stainless. Already have everything except the time. All the flexible I went OEM. You've helped me restore my Japanese KEI truck. 👍.
Liked this for the Teflon tape tip!