I ran across this video when I was getting started installing fuel injection in a Full-Size Bronco and needed to make fuel and return lines. Your tips are huge, and I really appreciate your help. My results worked great with only a little bit of wasted tubing. TIG wire, and making the gauges changes everything. I know I'll be doing a ton of this over the years, and splurged on a hydraulic flaring tool. Glad I did.
I've bent a lot of ss tubing over a 30 year career of race car/hot rod and aviation work and have used these valuable tips presented here. Great video. Tube end prep and accurate flaring could take a whole other video. Additionally, a slight over bend (a few degrees) can be reduced with a little pressure parallel to the bend plane from an arbor press with the bend sandwiched between thick aluminum, brass, etc.. All benders distort the cross section within the bend some amount. Usually making them oval/obround by .005" (3/8 or 1/2") or so. Pressing it takes out some bend and makes for a rounder, better looking bend. If you went way too far (304,316) can be heated to bright orange with a torch (about 1900-2000f) followed immediately by a water quench to anneal the work- hardened bend making it easier to take more out. I have also used inexpensive coiled aluminum tubing as a pattern for runs using larger diameters and built patterns for complex, high accuracy runs using the same technique as building a custom header tube. Then carefully duplicate. Lastly, TIG welding (304, 316) with proper internal shielding is a viable option while maintaining integrity for problem areas.
Alan - I think this video is one of your best so far! Lots of great information covered quickly, and efficiently, and great visuals. I've worked with tubing quite a bit, and I picked up quite a few tips here.
Thank you very much Ron. Glad to hear there was info in there for all. It's a constant battle of not being pedantic about the basics but also providing information to keep more advanced viewers interested. 👍
I well remember the old saying " Measure twice, cut once!" This is a well thought out idea and you do not mention it, but you show it by what you do on this tubing. I really enjoyed your video and I have seen a few others of yours and like them also.
Damn good video there, Hippi. You covered quite a bit in the 13:28 minutes of this video and the accuracy of the information could only come from someone with experience. My experience in this art comes as a hydraulic mechanic (retired). I too have accumulated an assortment of "gauge" tubing. It saves time and helps with the accuracy of your bends to have them. I've also got an assortment of tubing benders and found that the dedicated, (to one size), steel benders are the best and will last for many years. HRHippi, thanks for producing videos with informative and accurate content, you've accumulated a lot of experience for being so young, you should be proud. I look forward to viewing your other videos.
Good input. I definitely honed my skills on softer materials before I switched to primarily stainless. I think I mentioned the brake line factor in one of my other AN videos but you are entirely correct on that. 👍👍
I like to learn as much information about products, procedures and ways to improve mechanics. Today I learned something about fuel line tubing that I never knew: using rubber hose as "bridges" can create DRAG on the fuel. I have a '74 GMC van with a simple mechanical fuel pump that's has a short length of rubber hose connecting the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Along the way, someone may have added this rubber insert. Because the truck is almost 50 years old, I can't remember when or where. I do think a solid line would be a better way to go. Another point you made concerns the safety of a hard line versus a rubber insert. All appreciated. That's the power of knowledge. Excellent video.
I’m a 4 year Aviation apprentice about to take my test and I’m Boanning up on my studies before I take my test,s (multiple 😢) and Oral 😢 and practical. So thank you. It would be good if you showed us the math behind BEND ALLOWANCES but this is a start. Thank you 🙏
Just found your channel. The production quality and content is far, far above where your 23k subscribers would suggest. It's better than channels with 10 or 20 times the subscribers. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate that. I'm trying my best to provide informative videos that also have a good visual quality to them. Videography is a passion of mine and I think the visuals help inform viewers better. And why not enjoy watching something?
Number one best tip is knowing and marking start of bend and end of bend on tubing. Also where that mark lines up on your bender. Great info and your work looks awsome.
I can tell you take pride in your work...and thanks for passing your knowledge to us. As a dealer tech, now retired, I would be proud to have you skill-set and some of the tools. Techs at dealers are broken up into different skills, diagnostics and areas of talent. I was not that lucky as mostly imports at a domestic dealer, eight other guys would not touch them. So I had more money in tools and hardly the same job twice in one week. Very good job on the tips / tool info. Omaha. New subscriber as I don’t have my old wallet at the Dr pulled the plug and doing a 67C10 for my last vehicle. Be watching more as to stop lumbar burning at 6’3”, I went in July after the virus crap, but woke up with 10 new screws & 2 bars re-doing fusions going back to 1987. Hurts even as August 2020 comes to an end. Best of luck as I enjoy a passionate tech who has game!
That was very helpful. I love buying new tools for my shop. This is my first foray into bending stainless tubing. You are so right on about it looking much more trick and clean. I live near the ocean and always look for non ferritic stainless solutions. Keep em' coming. Thanks.
Very nice! Another benefit of using hard line tubing over rubber hose is heat dissipation. Rubber hose will hold a lot more heat in whatever fluids are flowing through it than metal pipe will. So on an application like transmission oil cooler lines, metal lines will help dissipate a tiny bit of heat since it's another metal surface that the fluid is flowing through. I'm sure the difference isn't measurable, but still a benefit nonetheless.
Agreed. Every bit is going to help. That is part of why I do hard lines to AC Condensers. Hard tubes will provide just a slight bit more heat transfer to the equation. Good comment. 👍👍
@@HotRodHippie The one situation I could see this possibly being a disadvantage though is for AC suction lines and fuel lines. AC lines are easy to insulate, but a fuel line that runs the entire length of the vehicle not so much. I'm thinking the fuel may heat up more in the summer going through a metal line since it might absorb more heat from the engine compartment and the burning hot road below it. But on the other hand, if someone has a return style fuel system, hard lines may help to dissipate some of the heat the fuel picks up from the engine before returning to the tank.
@@averyalexander2303 you have the airflow under the vehicle as well. And the friction of the fuel running inside of a grippy rubber hose would likely put in some heat too. I see where your thought process is but I haven't had any issue. The only problem I can see is if you run lines close to an exhaust. The metal lines could absorb heat easier than rubber (guessing). But I just make heat shields or wrap the tubing for insulation in those cases.
@@HotRodHippie Great points! I think it would be interesting to see this tested, although any differences would almost certainly be negotiable either way.
@@averyalexander2303 tests like that are something I'd really like to do on this channel at some point. But that will have to wait for when I have some more "free time". Ha
Usually a job that's no fun at all, at least to me as I'm usually laying under some rusty hulk replacing lines. A few years ago ,I did get some of that copper/nickel brake line and redid all the brake lines in my summer car. With that stuff, I actually had a good time trying to duplicate every factory bend and the job came out really nice.
Great tutorial video! I am a serious DYI'er and always try to plan and layout before new challenges. I have some transmission line work to take care of, so this really helped to dial me in. Thank you sir!!!
@@MatthewByrd thanks. I was up until 3am getting this one together. I have two modes, on and off. Ha. But I'm doing better about metering things I think.
All very good tips. I am relatively new to tube bending although I recently bent hard lines for my A/C project on my 72 LSX LUV truck. I agree with the individual tubing benders for specific sizes of tube. I will check out more of your videos soon.
If doing compound bends then the peistle mount roller is best cause youl be putting that hand bender in a vice with a level and square and at that point might as well be using a pedistle bender. End of day if your running tubing alot youll need all types
Thanks for this great video on hard line tubing and all those links for the tools! This video made me subscribe to your channel. Keep up the good work, your videos are well made and you're delivering it perfectly.
Thank-you for this, I like your videos a lot, they are very helpful and you seem to be a very honest and decent young person. I have been buying quality tools and the peripherals (crimps, electrical sleeving, tubing etc) needed for some time, when I can afford it though, for a future car build (Hotrod) I would like to do. I also like to over-engineer my electricals (still learning this) and tube bending (partial plumbing background) as I don't like doing things in half measures, that, and I like big sheds too (lol). Don't worry about the length of your videos as I believe they are interesting and don't drag on like other channels do, if anything I wish they were 5 minutes or so longer (lol). Keep up the good work man, Cheers :-)
The initial cut of this video was just over 20 minutes long. Sadly until I build a bigger audience I have to keep episodes manageable. I hear you on no half measures. Some may call it a flaw but I don't like tackling things until I know I can do them the right way the first time. Thank you and thanks for commenting. 👍👍
Second video i stumbled upon. Second video with good presentation and real world experience advice. Subcribed! Keep up the good work. Gonna check more of your vids
I recommend you to unbend the tubing using the benders just put the tubing upside down , example you over bended a 90 flip it 180 degrees and bended a lil just like if you was gonna make another 90 but you're just opening it it works
Outstanding vids! I learned a bunch of neat tips obtainable only from someone with your experience; so, thank you for sharing. Well worth multiple views, because there is so much info being imparted. One suggestion: speak a bit slower. While the vid might be slightly longer, it will be easier to understand you.
My comment made it in the video. I’m now internet famous! Thanks again for posting this video. I really appreciate it. Would you not use stainless for brake lines / a double flair in 3/16 line? I’m kinda wanting to use it for my own brake lines when I get to it. I’ll admit that a lot of it has to do with looks and the fact that it is better than just regular brake lines.
I use stainless for brake lines as well. At one point in the video I showed some 3/16" stainless lines on the frame (those were made by Roadster Shop not me). I just use fittings that convert from Inverted flare to 37 degree flare wherever necessary. Say at the calipers or master cylinder. It can be challenging to know what sizes are needed for each fitting as different hoses and calipers use different sizes. It gets a little annoying at times but I always manage. Fittings like these: www.russellperformance.com/mc/brake-clutch-hose/adapter-fittings.shtml
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video. I’m having trouble getting a plastic flexible fuel line to “lock” into my ferrying. When I attach it to my fuel pump the line pulls out of the nut. Any points as to what I’m doing wrong?
Nice hallow handle benders you got there buddy I been trying to find a pair of 1/2 hallow but they are hard to find lol but they are worth it if you have the set
Great video! I’m about to attempt hard line bending for my 1962C 10 truck for fuel brake and air lines! Lol. Could you please tell me where you get all your clamps that mount to the frame rails. Or just clamps in general that you use that are nice for custom work?
Hey Alan, I've tried the tubing benders you use mostly on aluminum and steel brake lines but always had no success with them. They're just too bulky to use in the engine bay or under the car's. I usually use a flexible tubing bender. The part number is 636779 from Lowes and they work great. You can make your bends on the car a lot tighter with the flexible bender. You seem to work with stainless steel more so the flexible tubing bender might not make sense as stainless is way harder to bend. Great video as always, Ahmad.
Yea, I am very rarely working on the car. I check against the car between bends but do them off the vehicle usually. Even with the benders I use Stainless is not easy to bend so the flexible ones definitely wouldn't work out. Anymore all I do is Stainless steel lines. For the caliber of builds I'm generally doing there isn't any reason to use anything else. However I do still do some aluminum and steel lines from time to time. I've never bothered with the flexible setups but maybe I'll give them a try next time I get a chance. Thanks!
Hey Alan, just watched this video and subscribed. See other videos I'll watch as well. I have one question concerning hard lines since I am getting ready to re-plumb my fuel system and oil feed and return on my twin turbos using stainless hardline instead of hoses. Can you give details on how to properly measure and adjust for shrink/stretch of tubing?
I would run flex sections honestly. You are thinking right about shrink/stretch of things. Even a good cast manifold can move around a good bit on a good turbo setup. I’d run at least a short flex section of good hose (preferably heat sleeved to protect it) to a hard line. Nothing wrong with hardline from your return port (engine side) to a junction then flex to the turbo itself. When doing brake lines from masters to frame rail/body, I do factor in a little extra in the bends. Usually making sure to give a couple big sweeping bends so the tube can give in that area. But I’d be a little concerned about that on a Turbo setup. Just not sure that I can recommend that unfortunately. The movement combined with proximity to heat worries me.
@@HotRodHippie I do plan to run Teflon SS the last 6-8" from the Hard T to each turbo. What I am more concerned with any loss/gain of tubing as the bends are made. I'll be running the tubing from the rear of the engine along the top valve cover flange and a T above the water pump. If this is insignificant that I will be in good shape. But thanks, your videos are very helpful! And, I'll also be running hardline from the fuel cell up front with Braided on the ends for flex/vibration.
Hello.I just watched this video and was wondering if you might be close to Indiana as I 'm needing some fuel lines made for one my farm tractors and need them.they need to be 120 thousands inside and if it's possible to have you do this or not. Thanks Kevin.
Another aspect of safety is that ptfe hose has an effective lifetime of just 5 years. After 5 years, you have to replace the hose. It's easy to forget about that until your car is on fire. Another aspect the cost associated with PTFE hose. A 10-foot run of hose costs at least $60, and that cost increases geometrically when you start talking about nylon, or even worse, steel braided host.
If you don’t mind me asking. What company do use to purchase your sleeves, Bnuts & tubing? Also, how do you determine what size tubing is sufficient enough? For example should a fuel system be -6 or -8?
I put gorilla tape on the ends of my soft jaws, so i can bend and unbend without marring/kinking the line or fittings. Allows the line to slide threw when needed instead of digging in.
how u no have more sub? awesome videos man.. keep it up. what kind of stainless bulkheads were those @10:00 ? and did you buy the bulkhead flange or make it? i looked around for a cheap "pack" of bulkhead mount plates to use and couldn't find.. took longer than expected to make multiple of them :/
The fittings are just Earl's Performance Bulkheads. I made the plates. I've had more than one inquiry about them so if I ever get the time to produce some producta that may be on the list. Thank you very much. RUclips is an uphill battle. I'd be happy if my subscriber count grew but I'll just keep on doing what I do for now.
I just did the fuel line on my sons one ton GM. I didn’t have any material to mock up the system. I finished the job after 3 Diet Pepsis and a ton of cussing.
The swagelok bender has marks on it tell you where the bend center us so you don't need to make a pile of jigs just measure it up get yourself a swagelok bending manual will make your work super accurate
You’re misunderstanding the purpose of the mock-up bends. They are so you can actively lay out your line as you make it. Make a bend, hold up the mock-up piece and see what angle you want next and what clocking angle it wants to be at, mark your tube, THEN use the marks on the Bender to achieve the desired results. The mock-ups don’t have anything to do with the physical bending process, just layout.
I do actually! It was my design that I made by hand for a while but now they are laser cut and press brake bent: www.hotrodhippie.com/product-page/an-bulkhead-brackets-6an
The shape through the curve may vary a bit, but the bend radius is the same. Basically it is a gauge for the bend radius of the tool you are using. There is a science to what bend radius you should use for the thickness of tubing, diameter, and material used. I just go with the tightest benders I can get and throw most of that out the window personally. It has never become an issue for me so I don't worry about it. Except on Copper. I've tried to bend some copper lines before that weren't happy about the bend radius.
I also agree that longer videos would be good, but understand your reasoning. How do you feel about the nickel/copper lines? I'm looking at doing a full plumbing job on a project this fall/winter and I am heavily leaning towards using that type of line for ease of bending/flaring. At least for the brake lines. Nothing stock on this car, so buying pre-made lines isn't an option. Thanks, Russ
I'm not a huge fan of it but it works. I've used it in the past. It's almost too soft so it's easy to bend too far or twist it too much by hand. And flaring it is a bit too easy. I've had more leaking fittings with that stuff than any other material. I've found that when you do the 45 degree double flare, don't fully finish the flare. On the last step I don't bottom out the flaring cone. Then when I install it the sealing surface inside the fittings kind of finishes the job. It's sealed to the situation then. Thank you. 👍👍👍
I would never recommend that. Even on a drag car with a solid mounted engine, the chassis is going to flex and move a surprising amount. I use flex sections from the Fuel Tank to the Frame Rail (easier to service the tank that way) and from the Frame Rail to the Fuel Rails. I've often designed it where the Fuel Rails have Hard lines that go to a mount on the back of the engine that converts to flex lines. That way from the engine bay it looks like it is all hard lines, but the flex is still there.
I have 2 questions could you use 1/2 bender to bend 3/8 stainless steel tube also where do you purchase your stainless steel at please let me know thanks
No, you need a bender to match your size. The die and follower of the bender support the tube and keep it from flattening out / kinking. Much like if you just bend it over your knee. It’s amazing how much of a difference having the right size makes. I’ve tried to use a 3/8” bender for 5/16” and that didn’t work well at all. And that’s a smaller size difference than 1/2” to 3/8”. For tubing, I usually buy the Summit Racing brand, but their supply has been really bad in 2020. The last couple times I bought from Brewery Suppliers actually. They use similar grade stainless for building beer brewing setups. .028” wall 304/308/316 Stainless is all acceptable. Annealing matters if you are hand flaring it, I’ve been using a hydraulic flaring tool lately that has been a non issue.
Thank you for the information...one last question is imperial 364-fh 2464800 good for bending stainless steel .049 please let me know thank u and great videos
@@vegasdogg702 I’ve not used that one specifically but it looks like a good steel construction. For ME I’d worry about it scarring my tubing work a little, as it doesn’t have roller bearings, but I’d say it will work yes. So for a “budget” option it looks like a decent one.
@@HotRodHippie ok cool thank you for your help and keep up the good work...its just im doing a project on a car and it just one time and my buddy has the 1/2 3/8 one that he will sale to me for 55 bucks so I thought I would ask someone that know....
@@more4u2c it is a bracket of my own design. That was a hand made version. I now produce laser cut ones for sale: www.hotrodhippie.com/shop Unfortunately I just moved across the country and haven’t been able to restock my store just yet. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll have a chance to restock. You can sign up for notifications for when they are back in stock.
What bender are you using? A quality bender should support the tubing and bend it to a radius that the tubing size can handle. I really have nothing more than the slightest ovaling of the tubing with any of my benders.
@@bradmcgill3380 Ah yea, budget benders often combine 3/8" and 5/16" into the same size die. It works OK but not great and is likely the culprit here. Benders I would recommend: Imperial - $50: amzn.to/3uNumcx Rigid - $122: www.testequipmentdepot.com/ridgid/bending-and-forming-tools/bending-tools/lever-benders/heavy-duty-instrument-bender-1-4-in-stainless-steel-hard-tubing-imperial-38033.htm?ref=gbase The Rigid design is my favorite design but I realize they are pretty pricey. Honestly the Imperial ones are likely just fine for most people's needs.
Do you always use single flare and sleeve fittings or are there occasions where using a compression AN fitting with an olive is viable or preferred? I watched your other video where you put on the AN pipe sleeve and flared the pipe - but did you forget to put the threaded fitting on first, or was your plan to use one of the open sided fittings? Also, are single flare fittings generally not recommended because double flare is more reliable (I think even required in some countries for brake lines - which negates the possibility of using AN fittings) , or does the AN fitting sealing method negate the reliability of the single flare? I'm about to start the fuel lines on my bare shell rebuild using AN fittings and Cupro-Nickel (Kunifer) hardline, but the brakes I am going with the standard double flare and fittings - just making sure I am on the right path! Thanks!
I never use compression fitting type AN fittings. It adds more possible points of failure in my opinion. AN fittings are intended to work with a Single flare 37 degree only. There is no Double Flare 37 degree. Stainless steel cannot be double flared safely which is part of why this is the case, it is only meant to be single flared. The design of the B-Nut and Sleeve reinforces the single flare making it stronger than if the sleeve wasn’t there. That said, by the letter of the law (heavily depending on local laws) Single Flare AN plumbing is not Street legal for brake systems. Call it “Off Road Use Only” or “Race Use Only” as the aftermarket loves to throw around. That said, It’s going to be up to whoever is inspecting your vehicle to even check for such a thing. And whether they feel it is safe or not to approve. I would not recommend using that copper nickel tubing with AN fittings for brake system. It is just too soft to be used like that. I ONLY use Stainless Steel for brake systems. Personally I’ve had more leaks problems with that copper stuff than with plain steel or stainless steel. It’s just so soft it’s easy to flare incorrectly or end up with a fitting damaging it. And lastly the video where I demonstrated flaring a tube to 37 degrees was just a demo so I didn’t bother with the nut. I should have since it’s a common mistake to leave it off. I hope I hit the key points you wanted. Feel free to ask for more input if you need further clarification.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the reply. So to clarify (in your opinion); IF you're going to do brake lines with AN fittings (which I'm not - I'm sticking with 45 degree double flare and standard fittings) then stick with stainless steel tubing. For fuel lines which are much lower pressure than brake systems, although stainless is probably your preferred tubing, I assume copper nickel with AN is still a viable option? I could do all this in stainless, but how do you think stainless compares to the copper nickel pipe in terms of corrosion resistance and aesthetic longevity when polished up? The factory stainless lines on the car are toast, but even copper lines on classic cars 30+ years old seem to have held up better?
There is such a thing as 37 degree double flare. It's a Japanese JIS standard. For example the C6 Corvette brake master cylinders use it. Also it's important to mention that there is a difference in quality of stainless tubing. Only the best tubing is annealed correctly for double flaring. Any of the higher quality flaring tools can double flare stainless tubing. Sounds like you need to upgrade your flaring tool. I wonder if you actually tell your customers that the brake system you installed on their vehicle is only meant for "off road" use only. Probably not.@@HotRodHippie
Absolutely. I'd argue it's more important with higher horsepower applications. The last car I plumbed with Stainless Hard lines was a 500+ Horsepower LS3 powered 55 Chevy.
@limitless > I think he mentioned “Vintage Air” in the video for hard line fitting & flex hose. Earls fittings are usually AN alum. but other sources like McMaster-Carr has just about everything. Please keep in mind, the hose OD changes from brands (I used Goodyear Barrier A/C hoses) but I don’t know the fitting you need. Measure, check thread pitch, piping size before contacting customer service. Aftermarket means measure twice, order three times. Some good customer service still out there, but a young voice on phone and getting frustrated wants me to ask if their dad is there! May I speak to him please! Best of luck!
Timestamps: - Why Hard Line Tubing?: 1:09 - Tools I Use: 2:40 - Tips & Tricks: 8:50 -
I think bending lines is an art form all it's own. Great tip on having a "gauge" tubing.
Thank you very much. Line bending is a serious challenge at times. That is for sure.
I ran across this video when I was getting started installing fuel injection in a Full-Size Bronco and needed to make fuel and return lines. Your tips are huge, and I really appreciate your help. My results worked great with only a little bit of wasted tubing. TIG wire, and making the gauges changes everything. I know I'll be doing a ton of this over the years, and splurged on a hydraulic flaring tool. Glad I did.
Just had to build 3/16 brake lines from Ni CU and 5/16 fuel line. Much better than steel. Great info. SUBBED👍
I don't use the NiCu stuff much but it is definitely superior for longevity vs steel. Thank you
I've bent a lot of ss tubing over a 30 year career of race car/hot rod and aviation work and have used these valuable tips presented here. Great video. Tube end prep and accurate flaring could take a whole other video.
Additionally, a slight over bend (a few degrees) can be reduced with a little pressure parallel to the bend plane from an arbor press with the bend sandwiched between thick aluminum, brass, etc.. All benders distort the cross section within the bend some amount. Usually making them oval/obround by .005" (3/8 or 1/2") or so. Pressing it takes out some bend and makes for a rounder, better looking bend. If you went way too far (304,316) can be heated to bright orange with a torch (about 1900-2000f) followed immediately by a water quench to anneal the work- hardened bend making it easier to take more out. I have also used inexpensive coiled aluminum tubing as a pattern for runs using larger diameters and built patterns for complex, high accuracy runs using the same technique as building a custom header tube. Then carefully duplicate. Lastly, TIG welding (304, 316) with proper internal shielding is a viable option while maintaining integrity for problem areas.
Good tips thanks. I don't work with flares and only compression. Was neat to see him mod that swagelok bender to accommodate flare end LOL😂
We use the swagelok benders exclusively at work. Cant beat the quality.
Alan - I think this video is one of your best so far! Lots of great information covered quickly, and efficiently, and great visuals. I've worked with tubing quite a bit, and I picked up quite a few tips here.
Thank you very much Ron. Glad to hear there was info in there for all. It's a constant battle of not being pedantic about the basics but also providing information to keep more advanced viewers interested. 👍
Hi Alan can I plug you on my channel, I’ll just pinch a few seconds of your stuff just to show viewers? Only if you want of course?
Of course Trev, I'd be happy for the support. Thank you
Two cracking channels lads 👌🏻
@@peanutbutter5191 exactly mate! I follow both of these legends too!
Hi Trev, I see that you've got an eye on Hippi's channel, too. You've both got some great stuff.
Trev brought me here, and I've been binging. Thanks!
I'll be coming back to this one. Lots of tubing to do on my project car, but later down the road. Thanks for sharing.
I well remember the old saying " Measure twice, cut once!"
This is a well thought out idea and you do not mention it, but you show it by what you do on this tubing. I really enjoyed your video and I have seen a few others of yours and like them also.
Damn good video there, Hippi. You covered quite a bit in the 13:28 minutes of this video and the accuracy of the information could only come from someone with experience. My experience in this art comes as a hydraulic mechanic (retired). I too have accumulated an assortment of "gauge" tubing. It saves time and helps with the accuracy of your bends to have them. I've also got an assortment of tubing benders and found that the dedicated, (to one size), steel benders are the best and will last for many years.
HRHippi, thanks for producing videos with informative and accurate content, you've accumulated a lot of experience for being so young, you should be proud. I look forward to viewing your other videos.
Good input. I definitely honed my skills on softer materials before I switched to primarily stainless. I think I mentioned the brake line factor in one of my other AN videos but you are entirely correct on that. 👍👍
I like to learn as much information about products, procedures and ways to improve mechanics. Today I learned something about fuel line tubing that I never knew: using rubber hose as "bridges" can create DRAG on the fuel. I have a '74 GMC van with a simple mechanical fuel pump that's has a short length of rubber hose connecting the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Along the way, someone may have added this rubber insert. Because the truck is almost 50 years old, I can't remember when or where. I do think a solid line would be a better way to go. Another point you made concerns the safety of a hard line versus a rubber insert. All appreciated. That's the power of knowledge. Excellent video.
I am glad this video found me. Watching this made me decide to definitely step up my tubing game. better late than never
I’m a 4 year Aviation apprentice about to take my test and I’m Boanning up on my studies before I take my test,s (multiple 😢) and Oral 😢 and practical. So thank you.
It would be good if you showed us the math behind BEND ALLOWANCES but this is a start.
Thank you 🙏
You sir are the MAN! Expert tuber but also teacher - which is its own skill - thank you!
Just found your channel. The production quality and content is far, far above where your 23k subscribers would suggest. It's better than channels with 10 or 20 times the subscribers. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate that. I'm trying my best to provide informative videos that also have a good visual quality to them. Videography is a passion of mine and I think the visuals help inform viewers better. And why not enjoy watching something?
Number one best tip is knowing and marking start of bend and end of bend on tubing. Also where that mark lines up on your bender. Great info and your work looks awsome.
I love the mig wire template suggestion! Fantastic!
This is a fantastic video! You did a Great job!!!! Everything is spot on thankyou for sharing! I wish YT wouldnt bury these videos.....
I can tell you take pride in your work...and thanks for passing your knowledge to us. As a dealer tech, now retired, I would be proud to have you skill-set and some of the tools. Techs at dealers are broken up into different skills, diagnostics and areas of talent. I was not that lucky as mostly imports at a domestic dealer, eight other guys would not touch them. So I had more money in tools and hardly the same job twice in one week. Very good job on the tips / tool info. Omaha. New subscriber as I don’t have my old wallet at the Dr pulled the plug and doing a 67C10 for my last vehicle. Be watching more as to stop lumbar burning at 6’3”, I went in July after the virus crap, but woke up with 10 new screws & 2 bars re-doing fusions going back to 1987. Hurts even as August 2020 comes to an end.
Best of luck as I enjoy a passionate tech who has game!
That was very helpful. I love buying new tools for my shop. This is my first foray into bending stainless tubing. You are so right on about it looking much more trick and clean. I live near the ocean and always look for non ferritic stainless solutions. Keep em' coming. Thanks.
You are indeed an artist. Amazing.
Very nice! Another benefit of using hard line tubing over rubber hose is heat dissipation. Rubber hose will hold a lot more heat in whatever fluids are flowing through it than metal pipe will. So on an application like transmission oil cooler lines, metal lines will help dissipate a tiny bit of heat since it's another metal surface that the fluid is flowing through. I'm sure the difference isn't measurable, but still a benefit nonetheless.
Agreed. Every bit is going to help. That is part of why I do hard lines to AC Condensers. Hard tubes will provide just a slight bit more heat transfer to the equation. Good comment. 👍👍
@@HotRodHippie The one situation I could see this possibly being a disadvantage though is for AC suction lines and fuel lines. AC lines are easy to insulate, but a fuel line that runs the entire length of the vehicle not so much. I'm thinking the fuel may heat up more in the summer going through a metal line since it might absorb more heat from the engine compartment and the burning hot road below it. But on the other hand, if someone has a return style fuel system, hard lines may help to dissipate some of the heat the fuel picks up from the engine before returning to the tank.
@@averyalexander2303 you have the airflow under the vehicle as well. And the friction of the fuel running inside of a grippy rubber hose would likely put in some heat too. I see where your thought process is but I haven't had any issue. The only problem I can see is if you run lines close to an exhaust. The metal lines could absorb heat easier than rubber (guessing). But I just make heat shields or wrap the tubing for insulation in those cases.
@@HotRodHippie Great points! I think it would be interesting to see this tested, although any differences would almost certainly be negotiable either way.
@@averyalexander2303 tests like that are something I'd really like to do on this channel at some point. But that will have to wait for when I have some more "free time". Ha
Usually a job that's no fun at all, at least to me as I'm usually laying under some rusty hulk replacing lines.
A few years ago ,I did get some of that copper/nickel brake line and redid all the brake lines in my summer car.
With that stuff, I actually had a good time trying to duplicate every factory bend and the job came out really nice.
Great tutorial video! I am a serious DYI'er and always try to plan and layout before new challenges. I have some transmission line work to take care of, so this really helped to dial me in. Thank you sir!!!
great stuff man. i'm waiting on that next video in this series. hope life is well
Thank you and thanks for commenting. Hopefully I'll get to furthering this topic soon.
@@HotRodHippie Just keep in mind your last video man. You first. Us nerds on the Internet can wait.
@@MatthewByrd thanks. I was up until 3am getting this one together. I have two modes, on and off. Ha. But I'm doing better about metering things I think.
Liked the “ gauges “ mate brilliant
you’ve some nice looking work about you
simple yet fantastic idea to make gauges!! I'm gonna do that!
Gauge tubing
Great idea
Love your work brother
All very good tips. I am relatively new to tube bending although I recently bent hard lines for my A/C project on my 72 LSX LUV truck. I agree with the individual tubing benders for specific sizes of tube. I will check out more of your videos soon.
Nice work! Great tutorial on how to do controlled bends using quality ss tubing and bender tools to achieve a good looking tube routing scheme 👍
Great videos man and amazing work, great to see you share your knowledge.
Very helpful video
Nice guy not arrogant.
Fantastic video. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us.
Beautiful work!
If doing compound bends then the peistle mount roller is best cause youl be putting that hand bender in a vice with a level and square and at that point might as well be using a pedistle bender. End of day if your running tubing alot youll need all types
Great tips my man. Thanks for the video !
Thanks for this great video on hard line tubing and all those links for the tools! This video made me subscribe to your channel. Keep up the good work, your videos are well made and you're delivering it perfectly.
Thank you, I appreciate that a lot. Glad to have you on board. 👍
This video was great!
Great thorough tips man 👍🏻
Thank You for sharing this awesome tips 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Wow thank you for the information
Another great video. Thank you sir.
Thank you very much, it is appreciated.
Great vid, hippie! Keep up the good work
Thank-you for this, I like your videos a lot, they are very helpful and you seem to be a very honest and decent young person. I have been buying quality tools and the peripherals (crimps, electrical sleeving, tubing etc) needed for some time, when I can afford it though, for a future car build (Hotrod) I would like to do. I also like to over-engineer my electricals (still learning this) and tube bending (partial plumbing background) as I don't like doing things in half measures, that, and I like big sheds too (lol). Don't worry about the length of your videos as I believe they are interesting and don't drag on like other channels do, if anything I wish they were 5 minutes or so longer (lol). Keep up the good work man, Cheers :-)
The initial cut of this video was just over 20 minutes long. Sadly until I build a bigger audience I have to keep episodes manageable.
I hear you on no half measures. Some may call it a flaw but I don't like tackling things until I know I can do them the right way the first time.
Thank you and thanks for commenting. 👍👍
@@HotRodHippie No problem bud, I understand, Cheers :-)
Great tutorial! Thanks
Second video i stumbled upon. Second video with good presentation and real world experience advice. Subcribed!
Keep up the good work. Gonna check more of your vids
As always,m great vid, great tips, and great explaining! thanks
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for commenting
Great info, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I recommend you to unbend the tubing using the benders just put the tubing upside down , example you over bended a 90 flip it 180 degrees and bended a lil just like if you was gonna make another 90 but you're just opening it it works
Super helpful tips man 🤟🏼 love the videos. Cheers
Great video
Outstanding vids! I learned a bunch of neat tips obtainable only from someone with your experience; so, thank you for sharing. Well worth multiple views, because there is so much info being imparted. One suggestion: speak a bit slower. While the vid might be slightly longer, it will be easier to understand you.
Really great video thank you
My comment made it in the video. I’m now internet famous!
Thanks again for posting this video. I really appreciate it.
Would you not use stainless for brake lines / a double flair in 3/16 line? I’m kinda wanting to use it for my own brake lines when I get to it. I’ll admit that a lot of it has to do with looks and the fact that it is better than just regular brake lines.
I use stainless for brake lines as well. At one point in the video I showed some 3/16" stainless lines on the frame (those were made by Roadster Shop not me). I just use fittings that convert from Inverted flare to 37 degree flare wherever necessary. Say at the calipers or master cylinder.
It can be challenging to know what sizes are needed for each fitting as different hoses and calipers use different sizes. It gets a little annoying at times but I always manage.
Fittings like these: www.russellperformance.com/mc/brake-clutch-hose/adapter-fittings.shtml
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Great video. I’m having trouble getting a plastic flexible fuel line to “lock” into my ferrying. When I attach it to my fuel pump the line pulls out of the nut. Any points as to what I’m doing wrong?
Amazing! Thank you!
Good stuff , I'm subscribed
i use the ridged ones. I would say they are par with the swag. ones 1/2in though not quit as good.
Good video ! Good idea w/the template pieces ! Thanks 👍
Nice hallow handle benders you got there buddy I been trying to find a pair of 1/2 hallow but they are hard to find lol but they are worth it if you have the set
Awesome Video.
Very appreciated, thanks for watching.
awesome vid thanku
How kool, your tic tok got me here
Glad to hear it. Thanks for coming over and checking things out. 👍👍
Thank you.
huge!! This was a legit video. Thank you
Great tips:)
Glad you liked them. Thanks
Great video! I’m about to attempt hard line bending for my 1962C 10 truck for fuel brake and air lines! Lol. Could you please tell me where you get all your clamps that mount to the frame rails. Or just clamps in general that you use that are nice for custom work?
Hey Alan, I've tried the tubing benders you use mostly on aluminum and steel brake lines but always had no success with them. They're just too bulky to use in the engine bay or under the car's. I usually use a flexible tubing bender. The part number is 636779 from Lowes and they work great. You can make your bends on the car a lot tighter with the flexible bender. You seem to work with stainless steel more so the flexible tubing bender might not make sense as stainless is way harder to bend. Great video as always, Ahmad.
Yea, I am very rarely working on the car. I check against the car between bends but do them off the vehicle usually. Even with the benders I use Stainless is not easy to bend so the flexible ones definitely wouldn't work out. Anymore all I do is Stainless steel lines. For the caliber of builds I'm generally doing there isn't any reason to use anything else. However I do still do some aluminum and steel lines from time to time. I've never bothered with the flexible setups but maybe I'll give them a try next time I get a chance. Thanks!
Hey Alan, just watched this video and subscribed. See other videos I'll watch as well. I have one question concerning hard lines since I am getting ready to re-plumb my fuel system and oil feed and return on my twin turbos using stainless hardline instead of hoses. Can you give details on how to properly measure and adjust for shrink/stretch of tubing?
I would run flex sections honestly. You are thinking right about shrink/stretch of things. Even a good cast manifold can move around a good bit on a good turbo setup. I’d run at least a short flex section of good hose (preferably heat sleeved to protect it) to a hard line. Nothing wrong with hardline from your return port (engine side) to a junction then flex to the turbo itself.
When doing brake lines from masters to frame rail/body, I do factor in a little extra in the bends. Usually making sure to give a couple big sweeping bends so the tube can give in that area. But I’d be a little concerned about that on a Turbo setup.
Just not sure that I can recommend that unfortunately. The movement combined with proximity to heat worries me.
@@HotRodHippie I do plan to run Teflon SS the last 6-8" from the Hard T to each turbo. What I am more concerned with any loss/gain of tubing as the bends are made. I'll be running the tubing from the rear of the engine along the top valve cover flange and a T above the water pump. If this is insignificant that I will be in good shape. But thanks, your videos are very helpful! And, I'll also be running hardline from the fuel cell up front with Braided on the ends for flex/vibration.
Nice I like the cheater bends
They've really been so handy. Thank you 👍
I have a question. On the tube bender, what does the "R, & L" mean, and when do you use it.
Good stuff.
Hello.I just watched this video and was wondering if you might be close to Indiana as I 'm needing some fuel lines made for one my farm tractors and need them.they need to be 120 thousands inside and if it's possible to have you do this or not.
Thanks Kevin.
Thank you
Another aspect of safety is that ptfe hose has an effective lifetime of just 5 years. After 5 years, you have to replace the hose. It's easy to forget about that until your car is on fire.
Another aspect the cost associated with PTFE hose. A 10-foot run of hose costs at least $60, and that cost increases geometrically when you start talking about nylon, or even worse, steel braided host.
If you don’t mind me asking. What company do use to purchase your sleeves, Bnuts & tubing? Also, how do you determine what size tubing is sufficient enough? For example should a fuel system be -6 or -8?
I put gorilla tape on the ends of my soft jaws, so i can bend and unbend without marring/kinking the line or fittings. Allows the line to slide threw when needed instead of digging in.
Good shit sir!
how u no have more sub? awesome videos man.. keep it up. what kind of stainless bulkheads were those @10:00 ? and did you buy the bulkhead flange or make it? i looked around for a cheap "pack" of bulkhead mount plates to use and couldn't find.. took longer than expected to make multiple of them :/
The fittings are just Earl's Performance Bulkheads. I made the plates. I've had more than one inquiry about them so if I ever get the time to produce some producta that may be on the list.
Thank you very much. RUclips is an uphill battle. I'd be happy if my subscriber count grew but I'll just keep on doing what I do for now.
I just did the fuel line on my sons one ton GM. I didn’t have any material to mock up the system. I finished the job after 3 Diet Pepsis and a ton of cussing.
The swagelok bender has marks on it tell you where the bend center us so you don't need to make a pile of jigs just measure it up get yourself a swagelok bending manual will make your work super accurate
You’re misunderstanding the purpose of the mock-up bends. They are so you can actively lay out your line as you make it. Make a bend, hold up the mock-up piece and see what angle you want next and what clocking angle it wants to be at, mark your tube, THEN use the marks on the Bender to achieve the desired results. The mock-ups don’t have anything to do with the physical bending process, just layout.
Who makes that -6AN dual bulkhead mount? That looks real nice!
I do actually! It was my design that I made by hand for a while but now they are laser cut and press brake bent: www.hotrodhippie.com/product-page/an-bulkhead-brackets-6an
Allen good to see you, don't know you if you remember me from Wyotech 05'
Love the video the gauges are a great idea, do you need separate gauges for aluminum versus stainless steel or will they bend identically?
The shape through the curve may vary a bit, but the bend radius is the same. Basically it is a gauge for the bend radius of the tool you are using. There is a science to what bend radius you should use for the thickness of tubing, diameter, and material used. I just go with the tightest benders I can get and throw most of that out the window personally. It has never become an issue for me so I don't worry about it. Except on Copper. I've tried to bend some copper lines before that weren't happy about the bend radius.
I also agree that longer videos would be good, but understand your reasoning.
How do you feel about the nickel/copper lines? I'm looking at doing a full plumbing job on a project this fall/winter and I am heavily leaning towards using that type of line for ease of bending/flaring. At least for the brake lines. Nothing stock on this car, so buying pre-made lines isn't an option.
Thanks,
Russ
I'm not a huge fan of it but it works. I've used it in the past. It's almost too soft so it's easy to bend too far or twist it too much by hand. And flaring it is a bit too easy. I've had more leaking fittings with that stuff than any other material. I've found that when you do the 45 degree double flare, don't fully finish the flare. On the last step I don't bottom out the flaring cone. Then when I install it the sealing surface inside the fittings kind of finishes the job. It's sealed to the situation then.
Thank you. 👍👍👍
What’s a good gauge or thickness for 1/2” fuel line ?
So were is the best place.
To buy fittings?
Can you run alloy hardline from fuel tank all the way up to fuel rails? Asking because of engine flex and vibrations.
I would never recommend that. Even on a drag car with a solid mounted engine, the chassis is going to flex and move a surprising amount. I use flex sections from the Fuel Tank to the Frame Rail (easier to service the tank that way) and from the Frame Rail to the Fuel Rails. I've often designed it where the Fuel Rails have Hard lines that go to a mount on the back of the engine that converts to flex lines. That way from the engine bay it looks like it is all hard lines, but the flex is still there.
I have 2 questions could you use 1/2 bender to bend 3/8 stainless steel tube also where do you purchase your stainless steel at please let me know thanks
No, you need a bender to match your size. The die and follower of the bender support the tube and keep it from flattening out / kinking. Much like if you just bend it over your knee. It’s amazing how much of a difference having the right size makes. I’ve tried to use a 3/8” bender for 5/16” and that didn’t work well at all. And that’s a smaller size difference than 1/2” to 3/8”.
For tubing, I usually buy the Summit Racing brand, but their supply has been really bad in 2020. The last couple times I bought from Brewery Suppliers actually. They use similar grade stainless for building beer brewing setups. .028” wall 304/308/316 Stainless is all acceptable. Annealing matters if you are hand flaring it, I’ve been using a hydraulic flaring tool lately that has been a non issue.
Thank you for the information...one last question is imperial 364-fh 2464800 good for bending stainless steel .049 please let me know thank u and great videos
@@vegasdogg702 I’ve not used that one specifically but it looks like a good steel construction. For ME I’d worry about it scarring my tubing work a little, as it doesn’t have roller bearings, but I’d say it will work yes. So for a “budget” option it looks like a decent one.
@@HotRodHippie ok cool thank you for your help and keep up the good work...its just im doing a project on a car and it just one time and my buddy has the 1/2 3/8 one that he will sale to me for 55 bucks so I thought I would ask someone that know....
can you let me know where ypu got that bracket that connects the hard line to softlines and bolts to the frame seen in video at the 10:04 mark
@@more4u2c it is a bracket of my own design. That was a hand made version. I now produce laser cut ones for sale: www.hotrodhippie.com/shop
Unfortunately I just moved across the country and haven’t been able to restock my store just yet. Hopefully in the next few weeks I’ll have a chance to restock. You can sign up for notifications for when they are back in stock.
Where I can buy a/c fittings?
Any tips to avoid kinks in the bend? Having issues with kinks in the steel tube when bending anything further then °45.
What bender are you using? A quality bender should support the tubing and bend it to a radius that the tubing size can handle. I really have nothing more than the slightest ovaling of the tubing with any of my benders.
Typical cheap bender, Will upgrade. Thank you, your work looks amazing. And that response was fast...
Could you recommend a tool? Running 5/16 transmission cooling lines currently. Will run 5/16 Fuel Lines for my Holley EFI in the near future.😲
@@bradmcgill3380 Ah yea, budget benders often combine 3/8" and 5/16" into the same size die. It works OK but not great and is likely the culprit here.
Benders I would recommend:
Imperial - $50: amzn.to/3uNumcx
Rigid - $122: www.testequipmentdepot.com/ridgid/bending-and-forming-tools/bending-tools/lever-benders/heavy-duty-instrument-bender-1-4-in-stainless-steel-hard-tubing-imperial-38033.htm?ref=gbase
The Rigid design is my favorite design but I realize they are pretty pricey. Honestly the Imperial ones are likely just fine for most people's needs.
I need 12-AN Hardline bent. Have you gone to 12
Do you always use single flare and sleeve fittings or are there occasions where using a compression AN fitting with an olive is viable or preferred? I watched your other video where you put on the AN pipe sleeve and flared the pipe - but did you forget to put the threaded fitting on first, or was your plan to use one of the open sided fittings? Also, are single flare fittings generally not recommended because double flare is more reliable (I think even required in some countries for brake lines - which negates the possibility of using AN fittings) , or does the AN fitting sealing method negate the reliability of the single flare? I'm about to start the fuel lines on my bare shell rebuild using AN fittings and Cupro-Nickel (Kunifer) hardline, but the brakes I am going with the standard double flare and fittings - just making sure I am on the right path! Thanks!
I never use compression fitting type AN fittings. It adds more possible points of failure in my opinion. AN fittings are intended to work with a Single flare 37 degree only. There is no Double Flare 37 degree. Stainless steel cannot be double flared safely which is part of why this is the case, it is only meant to be single flared. The design of the B-Nut and Sleeve reinforces the single flare making it stronger than if the sleeve wasn’t there. That said, by the letter of the law (heavily depending on local laws) Single Flare AN plumbing is not Street legal for brake systems. Call it “Off Road Use Only” or “Race Use Only” as the aftermarket loves to throw around.
That said, It’s going to be up to whoever is inspecting your vehicle to even check for such a thing. And whether they feel it is safe or not to approve.
I would not recommend using that copper nickel tubing with AN fittings for brake system. It is just too soft to be used like that. I ONLY use Stainless Steel for brake systems. Personally I’ve had more leaks problems with that copper stuff than with plain steel or stainless steel. It’s just so soft it’s easy to flare incorrectly or end up with a fitting damaging it.
And lastly the video where I demonstrated flaring a tube to 37 degrees was just a demo so I didn’t bother with the nut. I should have since it’s a common mistake to leave it off.
I hope I hit the key points you wanted. Feel free to ask for more input if you need further clarification.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the reply. So to clarify (in your opinion); IF you're going to do brake lines with AN fittings (which I'm not - I'm sticking with 45 degree double flare and standard fittings) then stick with stainless steel tubing. For fuel lines which are much lower pressure than brake systems, although stainless is probably your preferred tubing, I assume copper nickel with AN is still a viable option? I could do all this in stainless, but how do you think stainless compares to the copper nickel pipe in terms of corrosion resistance and aesthetic longevity when polished up? The factory stainless lines on the car are toast, but even copper lines on classic cars 30+ years old seem to have held up better?
There is such a thing as 37 degree double flare. It's a Japanese JIS standard. For example the C6 Corvette brake master cylinders use it. Also it's important to mention that there is a difference in quality of stainless tubing. Only the best tubing is annealed correctly for double flaring. Any of the higher quality flaring tools can double flare stainless tubing. Sounds like you need to upgrade your flaring tool. I wonder if you actually tell your customers that the brake system you installed on their vehicle is only meant for "off road" use only. Probably not.@@HotRodHippie
Would this working for brake lines? Just curious.
For the most part. I did a follow up video all about brake lines here: ruclips.net/video/TBEDVi_e3qg/видео.html
Would stainless line be good for efi 60 psi fuel and 600 hp
Absolutely. I'd argue it's more important with higher horsepower applications. The last car I plumbed with Stainless Hard lines was a 500+ Horsepower LS3 powered 55 Chevy.
Great video! Very educational and the presentation is excellent. The shaved head makes you look like Dr. Evils leprechaun cousin. :-)
When you say imperial do you mean a brand name or imperial vs. metric?
I meant the brand "Imperial". They make a fair amount of equipment for HVAC and Plumbing work.
Where do you get your stainless tube nuts??
@limitless > I think he mentioned “Vintage Air” in the video for hard line fitting & flex hose. Earls fittings are usually AN alum. but other sources like McMaster-Carr has just about everything. Please keep in mind, the hose OD changes from brands (I used Goodyear Barrier A/C hoses) but I don’t know the fitting you need. Measure, check thread pitch, piping size before contacting customer service. Aftermarket means measure twice, order three times. Some good customer service still out there, but a young voice on phone and getting frustrated wants me to ask if their dad is there! May I speak to him please! Best of luck!