1965 Malibu SS (Ep 23) Rear Disc Brake Conversion on the Chevelle.
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- Опубликовано: 26 окт 2022
- Today we finally get to start putting some more upgrades on the Chevelle. We will cover everything you need to know about a rear disc brake conversion on a GM 12 Bolt rear end. I will cover some tips and critical things you need to check before you dive in to a conversion.
If you have a project you would like to showcase at the end of one of my videos just email me a few pics and a short description to: foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com 
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Great 👍 Job
Thank you I appreciate that.
These step by step videos are invaluable!!! Great work Mark! Thanks for sharing
Thank you Justin. If I can save one person a few head aches then it was worth it.
Mark
Nice vid. Thanks
Hope it helps, all these kits are far from bolt on.
Mark
Awsome video, very detailed.Learned about other things to look for you don't see mentioned in other videos.
Thanks I appreciate that. I did a whole series on the Malibu, this link should get you there ruclips.net/video/GKkodGVIkhE/видео.html&pp=gAQBiAQB
I am currently working on my GTO so check that out as well.
Mark
Thanks for the video Mark. I can not believe I didn't see this video before I did the exact conversion on my 85 Grand National. I used the kit that Jegs sells....it is 99% identical to t he kit you used.
You hit the nail on the head when you said that this is not a true plug and play kit....a few mods were needed...actually almost identical to your mods. My rear axle had to be cleaned up and burred....along with the new longer lug nuts. I went ahead and changed the axle seals and bearings. Your ebrake cable setup was very quick. Mine took almost longer to figure out than the conversion.
Thanks again for the video..
Subscribed!!!
Thanks Amrik, I really appreciate that. Those Grand Nationals are quick! I bet it is a fun car to drive especially with way better brakes 😁
Great job Mark! We've had this conversation many times, buying a kit that is supposed to be plug and play and you have to do so much fabrication to get it to work. This always bargles my mind how people get things done with just a basic tool kit.
Very true. Nothing is easy if you want it right. Hopefully if someone is considering something like this they will at least know what they are getting into.
Mark thanks very much for sharing the installation you do nice work. I'm getting ready to do my rear brakes on my 72 Elcamino this video helps
Thanks again
You are very welcome Bruce. I hope it goes smoothly. The owner of the Malibu loves the feel of the new brakes and I am sure you will too. Let me know if you have any questions and send me some pics of your project and I will showcase them at the end of a video.
Mark
Very nice video Mark. Super attention to detail!
Thank you Robert, everything else out there seemed vague so I went in depth.
Mark
Nice job as always Mark, I like that conversion brake kit maybe good option for 71 olds. Thanks!
It is going to stop really nice. Those drum brakes were barely passable for stopping at moderate speeds.
Very informative Mark. This just goes to show if you just need street car brakes and can do the work to make them fit you can save a lot of money. Total cost on my custom Wilwood brake setup on my 53 31000 is about $9K. Thank you for your time.
Yikes! For that kind of money it shouldn't only stop you on a dime it should take you back in time! How big are the rotors?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication 12.88" ultra light rotors and hubs. Nickle plated calipers. 6 piston front 4 piston rear. That also includes custom made spindles with Heidts spindle pins, custom caliper brackets and custom flanges for the Frankland Quick Change rear end. 8" duel diagram booster and proportioning valve. Scroll vacuum pump because I have no intake vacuum with the 6-71. I will have power brakes without the engine running just like my A/C and P/S.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 Very cool.
Very informative, great to know how much extra work is involved to do it correctly! Also how much to charge for all the extra labor!
Thank you. That is why they call it an estimate. Time and materials and peace of mind that a car I worked on is done right and is safe. Some of the stuff I have seen is scary...
Had to do the same my kit was identical I was not going to put a bad comment on the sellers page but in all reality should have been.....craftsmanship and especially on the fitment both of us are fortunate to have all tools and lathes and Bridgeport to make parts correct but pads to calipers just junk hopefully willwood calipers fit these brackets when it time to replace or fix after time you did a nice job as should be on a brake installation ....so people don't cut corners you could be that guy hurting your car or worse hurting someone else Great video I was seeing which way you installed front or back does it matter as long as bleaders on top? Plus mine came with no directions only front Thanks .....
Yeah they look good and like a simple upgrade but they really are not. The Eldorado rear caliper is commonly used and packaged with aftermarket caliper sets, even higher end ones because of the emergency brake set up, Definitely not an easy driveway weekend project.
As far as having the caliper in the forward position goes it would cause E-brake cable issues, not impossible to overcome but longer cables would be needed for sure. I think on the F body or G body one caliper is on the front of the axle and the other is on the rear. Can't remember which though.
Good thing you had the rear end out to install the caddy brakes, they are a pain to do while on the vehicle, they are also a pain to adjust after a test drive, I have same kit on my C10. Do you have a video on adjusting these caddy brakes for better braking?
The only adjustment is by using the parking brake lever on the caliper. Have you tried cycling your parking brake several times? There should be minimal play in the parking brake lever (about 1/16" to 1/8" from its stop when you push it forward by hand) so check that first. I bench adjusted them and didn't do a detail video sorry but there are some out there I am sure. Search for Cadillac Eldorado rear brake caliper adjustment and something should come up. These calipers are used by a bunch of performance/aftermarket manufacturers so one of them must have a video.
Mark
Thank you@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
The best install video. Thank you for being so detailed. How did you spin the piston to align with the pad nipple? Did you use a specific tool so that we don't damage it? Doing this in a few days. I hope to hear from you soon. Thanks.
Thanks
I just used a pair of needle nose pliers or snap ring pliers to catch the recessed edges going straight in. It turned pretty easy so you shouldn't have an issue. Getting the clip on was the hard part but once I figured that out it was easy too.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thank you so much. That is a great idea that I didn't think of. Will be doing mine very soon. Thanks.
I meant to say calipers can be mounted front of rear or rear of rear
Depends on shocks
Is there any chance you can share the brand/model of kit you bought? Great video by the way. Thank you for taking the time.
Hi Simon, We got the kit from Pirate Jack. Here is a link to their website: piratejack.net/disc-brake-kits/
If you want to make a substitution or have questions give them a call as they are really cool to deal with. We were able to make adjustments to their kit to match what the owner wanted and they worked with us no problem. Most of these kits seem to be made at the same place and sold by a great many dealers so price and customer service is important.
Let me know if you need anything else.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication wow thank you for the quick reply! I actually have a 65 Malibu myself and I’m thinking about doing this conversion. Whereabouts is your shop? You seem to teach very well and I as a young guy I really appreciate that.
@@simonh5110 No problem. You can totally do this yourself but it will take time. I tried to be as comprehensive as possible but I am sure you will run into things that I didn't show. Let me know if you have any questions.
New viewer. I have been reviewing YT videos on the rear disc conversion for my 1967 Camaro, and your video came up. I have to say it’s the most comprehensive one I’ve seen on the subject. But I do have a few questions. First, assuming this is a “Right Stuff “ kit, as I saw the part number on the box at the beginning, I think. Looked like their sequence of numbers, but I know Speedway Motors markets it too, and I gathered other do as well. So, is the different color options for the calipers? I didn’t see dust shields, which in other videos, I have. Since I have not actually ordered the kit yet, I have not completely researched the options, although I know they have a separate number for 1968-69 F Bodies with the staggered shock/ staggered caliper arrangement.
In any case, thanks for the heads up informative video , so I know what to be on the lookout for. Might even have to convert my Chevelle to rear discs, too!
I have gone through your list of videos and clicked “save to watch later” for more educational help!
Thumbs up!
Thanks Charlie and welcome to the channel.
Yes several people sell these "kits" so shop around for the best deal for you. Pirate Jack is pretty easy to work with if you want to make a substitution. You might want to call them as far as caliber color is concerned. No shields on the back but they are on the front. Not sure how much they would help on the back anyways. The 65 stops so much nicer with these brakes now.
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
Mark
Thank u for the pinnion seal summit has it
You are welcome Joey, glad I was of some help.
Mark
Great video Mark! What type of paint did you use on the rear axle? I would like to do this on my 53 Chevy 3100
I just used some rattle can gloss black. I think it was rustoleum. The budget didn't allow for me to spend more time on prep which would have made it come out way better.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thanks Mark!
This video is ultra helpful. I have a quick question...the smaller brake pad...what is holding that in tight? Mine is just floating and has a ton of jiggle jiggle in it. I seem to be missing a part? Thanks!!
There will be some play in the pads but the caliper pins/bolts should trap the pads. Is there excessive play with the calipers installed?
Yep, when installed the smaller pad is moving a ton. I noticed in your video that even when you didn't have it installed your smaller pad isn't moving. There must be a clip holding yours in, right? I really appreciated your help!
No clip on the outer smaller pad. There are two ears that fit snugly into the caliper. You can see them at 22.27 minutes into the video. You should have to push the pad on until it seats, it shouldn't be really loose. There is a clip for the inboard pad as shown in the video.@@designsinorbit
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Ok, thanks for the help. Appreciate it much!
Admire your attention to the details.
Thanks Lyle. Sometimes I feel like I go to far and make it more complicated than it needs to be but it never hurts and it keeps you from sitting on the side of the road waiting on a tow truck 🤣
I actually need to change the size of my studs to M12 to match the new front disc brakes. In your opinion, would I just need an M12 metal drill bit to open up the stud holes? Or do I need to do little by little with a burr tool?
Since the studs press in I would use a reamer or drill bit the correct size for the studs. If you have the studs measure the knurled area and go slightly smaller. A 12mm drill bit might be the correct choice but checking the knurled area diameter is a good idea before you buy the bit or reamer. See if there are specs on your studs that show the knurled diameter and hopefully what the hole size should be.
Good luck
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Awesome, thanks for the great advice!
Hello, what is the link where I can buy the longer bolts but still be 7/16, for me Chevelle?
Here you go. Price went up.
www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE6411267
Mark
quesiton where does the outer caliper bushing go ?? they send them in the kit but i never see anyone use them so not sure where they go
They are used to push the caliper bracket out from the rear end tube flange if needed. On some cars the caliper may sit to far inboard causing the pads to bind. Mock up the caliper bracket, temporarily slide the axle in with the rotor on it and the install the caliper with brake pads installed. There should be a small gap to allow the rotor to turn, if not install spacer shims as needed. They will go between the caliper bracket and axle tube flange. Let me know if that answers your question.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication thank you so much that was exactly the information. I needed I appreciate the reply 🤠
@@shawncollins1239 My pleasure Shawn, let me know how it all turns out.
Mark
Mark, did you have to extract the piston at all to properly set the correct pad pressure? I just put mine in and they are slightly wobbly and when I press my brake pedal, I am not getting a full firm pad press. Don't we need to unscrew the piston so that the pads are tight against the rotor? I didn't see this part in your video, but I did see that your piston was quite far out compared to mine. What I heard is that we need to screw the piston out so that the pads just barely won't fit into the rotor. Then screw the piston in just a tiny bit so that the caliper with pads slides on very tight. Is thus correct and how you did it?
Mark, from what I understand screwing the piston in or out would be for the initial parking/emergency brake adjustment. The piston should move out and stay close to the rotor after brake pedal press because there is no return spring and it also gives you instant brake response since there is almost zero clearance between the pad and rotor. When you say wobbly, do you mean the rotor, caliper or pads?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication The pads in mine are wobbly. I got off the phone with LEED Brakes and they said I need to screw out the piston. Mine was recessed to far in and is not set right I guess. When I was watching your video, you actually out the caliper on with the emergency brake level down and slightly started closing the emergency brake level to get it to fit. Maybe you accidently did it right by doing that. My piston stayed deep into the caliper. The little nipple on the back of the pad keeps the piston from spinning so it would seem I locked the piston in place not far enough out. I'm still learning.
@@MHTownsend57 Interesting, you would think the hydraulic pressure would push them out. I only moved the piston just enough to get the pin to line up but I guess I got lucky. Have you tried them out yet? Let me know how it goes so I can learn from your situation too.
Mark
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I will keep you posted. Installing a new master cylinder and booster for disc disc now. That might also have been part of my problem.
@@MHTownsend57 Yes the master cylinder for drum brakes and disc brakes are different and could very well cause your issue. I should have asked you about that first. Disc brake pistons are designed to apply pressure and then stay where they are where drum wheel cylinders retract with spring pressure.
Mark
I got a speedway kit for my 65 cutlass. The e brake cable is too short. They said i can move the holder but i haven’t figured that out yet. But it looks like your cable is flipped around
Wouldn't it be easier to source a longer cable? Seems like there should be longer ones out there.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Yeah probably. The cable is a good length its the sleeve and the retainer that’s not reaching. One part of the instructions states i can move the retainer to best suit my needs.
Email me a pic of what you are referring to and I might be able to help. foothillpaintandfabrication@gmail.com@@theshark2804
Why not put it on the lathe, which be completely centered it would take off the material you need without making an oblong or anything it would be completely centered completely balanced and just take off that you can do that on the axle or you could do that on the disc either one it would be in a lathe it be turning straight and clean and just take the material away you need it'll be a nice clean finish and to me that would be the best way to do it
A lathe would be best of course but not many guys have a lathe that can swing an axle. It would require a trip to the machine shop. Most are doing this on a weekend in the garage when machine shops are closed.
What year of the cadillac and make i didnt get the book lol but its the same kit
I am pretty sure they are the 76-77 El Dorado calipers, 78 and newer were smaller. I am not 100 % positive though which year.
My axle hubs have to be turned down because they don't fit in the disc. Then I have to shim the caliper brackets. One bolt is hitting the brake pad. What a headache!
Yeah either open up the hole in the disc or take a little off the axle hub. With the burr tool it only took a few minutes to get the discs to fit and only a few thousands removed. Most of the time the caliper bracket needs to be shimmed to align the caliper to the disc so there is enough clearance on the outside pad. I didn't run into any bolt clearance issues. Are you working on an A Body or F Body?
Mark
78' G body Cutlass supreme with a 79' rear 10 bolt out of a delta 88. So I have a little fab work to accomplish. I have a wood lathe I can turn it on at about 540 rpm and grind it down.
I have never done one on a G body. Are the calipers both on the rear of the axle or one front and one rear? Shouldn't take much filing on the lathe to get the discs to fit. Not sure why the holes are undersized on these kits... @@topgunpressurecleaning8930
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication both on the rear of the axle. The flat part of the axle is bigger than the disk, not the center hub. I had to reverse the caliper mounting plates to center the pads. Not even close to the directions. Little bit of welding and holes to drill. Jeez what a nightmare 😳
Yikes that is a nightmare! and I thought the A body was a pain. These things are way more involved than most let on. Let me know how it all works out.
Mark@@topgunpressurecleaning8930
Adding horsepower requires adding brakes
Not when I was a kid, it was all about going fast. Of course I was young and dumb back then. I finally wised up and salvaged disc brakes off a 69 Bonneville for the GTO after several white knuckle situations. Oh the good ole days...
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Oh yeah, my statement above is a more recent revelation! 😂🤣🤣🤦♂
Those cables don't work property because they're not the ones GM originally used. The original ones had spring clips you just pushed it through the hole and three metal prongs popped out keeping it in place. Realistically you don't need them if the cables are adjusted they won't come out.