Never crank everything down until all of the bodies weight is on the frame. If you do then your bushings will wear out faster. Not so much in the rear but definitely in the front after the motor and Transmission is installed.
aaawh. To be able to do the shocks with the body off, is just too easy. With body on, you can barely get your fingers in the space at the top of the shock to get the bolts in. Nice video.
Great video, really appreciate all the description. Assembling a 1970 442 convertible and my frame is coming back from powder coat. Your vids are an awesome resource!
Hello Steve I have a 70 olds also, It has been in the garage for a couple years and I am now getting it road ready. What rear shocks are you using and springs?
Gotta tell ya, your videos convinced me I could do my first complete frame off restoration on my 71 Chevelle, which is currently happening. I'm wondering, what did you use for lower rear spring insulators? I can't seem to find any. Also, when is your Chevelle getting painted? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment I appreciate it. Here is where I got my rear spring insulators. www.ss396.com/chevelle/DSI-370.html My Chevelle is coming along slow This weekend I should have all parts painted minus the body. Trunk, Hood and Doors are block sanded ready to shoot. How far are you on your 71 project?
The spring isolator rubbers go on the too of the spring to stop noise and vibration from the body , and your probably not going to like the bushings your using in the control arms , Johnny joints or roto joints as UMI calls them . Roto joints would have been a huge upgrade for the ride and handling and they don't split and fall apart after a year or two of driving.
I'm totally enjoying the chevelle Playlist here!! Question: What rear upper trailing arm Bushings did you go with? I'm installing the exact same umi arms in a 71 el camino
Dang those are easy installs without the body 😂. I went 3.73 on my 67’ with a weak auto 350 it worked ok but on my 68’ ( built 406-4grear ) in progress I’m going with 3.08’s so I can play around at higher speeds 😃. I’ve also got an old school hurst V-gate shifter I’m dying to try out. Great videos and build man.
Did you center the rear axle before tightening everything. ? I did mine without then when I put the body on I realized I was 1/2 inch over on the right side.
Really enjoy watching your vids. You do a great job of explaining what you're doing. Also, really appreciate your comments and tips on what you are doing in the vids. Please keep them coming.
Videos are absolutely amazing. Need a new rear end for my 67 Chevelle - wondering what specs you went with and how your rear end has held up so far. Looking at Currie and some other but the price stacks up really quick. Guy you went with looks solid.
I used a guy in Colorado Springs and he does quality work. I went with a stock 12 bolt rear end with Yukon post locker and 373 gears. If you want his contact info let me know.
Just finished painting my frame and will be up to this step next. Do you remember where you ordered those brake lines and rubber brake hose from? Thanks, its cool to have these videos for reference
Thanks for the note Matt. I hired a guy to rebuild my 12 bolt and he ordered the brake lines. I have purchased from Ground Up SS396 I know they sell what you need.
Thanks for the comment I admit that is one of my regrets, should’ve went with this brakes in the rear. At the time I was getting an engine rebuilt and a rear end put together and funds were tight.
Im wondering how you were able to jack up the axle to get ther upper control arms on with no weight on the frame? I can't do that on mine. It just lifts the frame up with it.
I did jack up the rear end and had to compress the spring just a little to get the upper control arm to line up. I did cheat and used my son to push down on the frame to help line things up.
I figured out that the springs are slightly taller than stock that's why I have to use a compressor tool. But that's actually a good thing because im putting bigger wheels on it.
@@sharmin350 I actually found his add for a rebuilt 12 bolt on Ebay and noticed he was from Colorado Springs not to far from my home north of Denver. So I called him and he built the rear end to my specs and I. drove. down and. picked it up. His work is quality and I am very happy with the rear axle. Here is his Ebay add and contact info if you want to give him a call. www.ebay.com/itm/262191884074
Nice build. I did all this with me 70 a few years ago. I used the same control arms too. Even after using the silicone grease mine squeak when going over bumps.
If your Monte Carlo has a 12 bolt rear end pretty sure the upper and lower control arms will be the same. I purchased UMI control arms and they came complete with bushings installed.
Probably my biggest regret. At the he time when I was getting the rear end rebuilt, it was a money issue plus I was attempting to keep it all original.
I took my rear end to a person who rebuilds them, he in installed new brake lines new posi, axles seals and powder coated. The guy is in Colorado Springs and he bends his own lines.
Is that a factory-style F41 rear sway bar (7/8"). If so did you happen to get it online? Looking to buy one for my 70 Chevelle but want to make sure it's the right factory fitment (where it sits tight to the diff).
It is the factory original 7/8 rear sway bar that came with the car. It did bolt right up to my UMI lower control arms. I have had good luck purchasing from Ground Up SS 396. Com. They specialize in Chevelle parts, and OE equipment.
AWESOME DUDE.
Why not quiet overs????
You should really weld those nuts in at the top of the rear shocks while you have the chance. You will be grateful on future rear shock changes..!!
Great idea
Those rear trailing arm are identical to QA1s.
Never crank everything down until all of the bodies weight is on the frame. If you do then your bushings will wear out faster. Not so much in the rear but definitely in the front after the motor and Transmission is installed.
That is great advise, I appreciate it.
aaawh. To be able to do the shocks with the body off, is just too easy. With body on, you can barely get your fingers in the space at the top of the shock to get the bolts in. Nice video.
Great video, really appreciate all the description. Assembling a 1970 442 convertible and my frame is coming back from powder coat. Your vids are an awesome resource!
Hello Steve I have a 70 olds also, It has been in the garage for a couple years and I am now getting it road ready. What rear shocks are you using and springs?
Gotta tell ya, your videos convinced me I could do my first complete frame off restoration on my 71 Chevelle, which is currently happening. I'm wondering, what did you use for lower rear spring insulators? I can't seem to find any. Also, when is your Chevelle getting painted? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment I appreciate it. Here is where I got my rear spring insulators. www.ss396.com/chevelle/DSI-370.html
My Chevelle is coming along slow This weekend I should have all parts painted minus the body. Trunk, Hood and Doors are block sanded ready to shoot. How far are you on your 71 project?
The spring isolator rubbers go on the too of the spring to stop noise and vibration from the body , and your probably not going to like the bushings your using in the control arms , Johnny joints or roto joints as UMI calls them . Roto joints would have been a huge upgrade for the ride and handling and they don't split and fall apart after a year or two of driving.
Great work!!! Very neat, organized and informative. Looking forward to the rest of the build!
I appreciate your comments thank you.
I'm totally enjoying the chevelle Playlist here!! Question: What rear upper trailing arm Bushings did you go with? I'm installing the exact same umi arms in a 71 el camino
I ordered mine from ss396.com
I ordered quite a few parts from them.
@@soolegarage Very helpful, thanks!
Dang those are easy installs without the body 😂. I went 3.73 on my 67’ with a weak auto 350 it worked ok but on my 68’ ( built 406-4grear ) in progress I’m going with 3.08’s so I can play around at higher speeds 😃. I’ve also got an old school hurst V-gate shifter I’m dying to try out. Great videos and build man.
Did you center the rear axle before tightening everything. ? I did mine without then when I put the body on I realized I was 1/2 inch over on the right side.
I did measure before tightening but made that mistake before.
@@soolegarage 🍷
Very helpful video, just got a 68 Chevelle doing a body of Restoraition
Good work man it’s nice seeing someone one actually ran the brake lines nice an straight for once
I'm working on a 69 Chevelle right now. I am at the same spot on mine as you are in this video.
Really enjoy watching your vids. You do a great job of explaining what you're doing. Also, really appreciate your comments and tips on what you are doing in the vids. Please keep them coming.
Thanks Rob, and thanks for watching
Great video! Did you replace the rubber bumpers that sit on each end of the rear differential?
Looks like you are doing a beautiful job! Nice!
Videos are absolutely amazing. Need a new rear end for my 67 Chevelle - wondering what specs you went with and how your rear end has held up so far. Looking at Currie and some other but the price stacks up really quick. Guy you went with looks solid.
I used a guy in Colorado Springs and he does quality work. I went with a stock 12 bolt rear end with Yukon post locker and 373 gears. If you want his contact info let me know.
Hi. Yes info would be great!
Thank you
Just finished painting my frame and will be up to this step next. Do you remember where you ordered those brake lines and rubber brake hose from? Thanks, its cool to have these videos for reference
Thanks for the note Matt. I hired a guy to rebuild my 12 bolt and he ordered the brake lines. I have purchased from Ground Up SS396 I know they sell what you need.
Hello my friend, why not all 4 wheel disc brakes, the cost is minimal compared to the benefits, since you bought a new rear end
Thanks for the comment I admit that is one of my regrets, should’ve went with this brakes in the rear. At the time I was getting an engine rebuilt and a rear end put together and funds were tight.
I really like this series! Keep going!
Thanks I appreciate your feedback.
Im wondering how you were able to jack up the axle to get ther upper control arms on with no weight on the frame? I can't do that on mine. It just lifts the frame up with it.
I did jack up the rear end and had to compress the spring just a little to get the upper control arm to line up. I did cheat and used my son to push down on the frame to help line things up.
I figured out that the springs are slightly taller than stock that's why I have to use a compressor tool. But that's actually a good thing because im putting bigger wheels on it.
Nice video
Looks like you put the upper control arms upside down… the zeros fas downward so you can get to them..
Yep, good eye. I have since flipped them.
Wondering where that housing came from with those super heavy upper mounts that are raised
Picked it up from a guy In Colorado Springs that specializes in rebuilding 12 bolt post rear ends.
@@soolegarage Any chance I could get his contact info? I'm liking the high ears on it for upper arm angle
@@sharmin350 I actually found his add for a rebuilt 12 bolt on Ebay and noticed he was from Colorado Springs not to far from my home north of Denver. So I called him and he built the rear end to my specs and I. drove. down and. picked it up. His work is quality and I am very happy with the rear axle. Here is his Ebay add and contact info if you want to give him a call.
www.ebay.com/itm/262191884074
Good job
Love everything and video so far!!! Keep it up
Nice build. I did all this with me 70 a few years ago. I used the same control arms too. Even after using the silicone grease mine squeak when going over bumps.
No squeaks yet but I was wondering what others have experienced. Thanks for the comment.
Can you get to the grease fittings on the uppers with them pointing up? Can the arms be flipped?
@@DavidJohnson-bg9gs the arms can not be flipped. I did purchase a 90 degree fitting for my grease gun that allows me to get grease in there.
Great step by step video
Very.nice work I’m doing the same to my 65 GTO
Thanks I appreciate it. You will have to send me a pic of that GTO someday.
Thanks
You have your grease fitting pointing up. It's going to be a bitch to grease them
When installing the upper trailing arms you may want to point the grease fittings down.
We finished up the installation of the same 4link today on a 72 Chevelle
Thats awesome, nice work. Whats next on your project?
Continue working on my FFR 33 hotrod. Close to having it running.
Just added and liked ! pretty good stuff , keep up the good work!
Thanks I appreciate the note.
What’s the part number for the lower and upper bushing for the rear .. also I have a 71 Monte Carlo is it the same control arms and bushings
If your Monte Carlo has a 12 bolt rear end pretty sure the upper and lower control arms will be the same. I purchased UMI control arms and they came complete with bushings installed.
Where did you get the diff housing clamp for the brake line junction block? Thanks
I had a guy rebuild the rear end and he also installed brake lines and provided the housing clamp. Sorry....
How much torque did you use on the torque arms?
Awesome
Thanks for watching Don, can’t wait to drive it
Why didn't you go ahead and put disc brakes on the rear?
Probably my biggest regret. At the he time when I was getting the rear end rebuilt, it was a money issue plus I was attempting to keep it all original.
Hi what brake lines did you use here?
I took my rear end to a person who rebuilds them, he in installed new brake lines new posi, axles seals and powder coated. The guy is in Colorado Springs and he bends his own lines.
What size wheels and tires are you running?
I found them on craigslist and they ended up being a great fit for me American racing wheels 8 inch. Rear tire- 275/40/17 front tire - 245/45/17.
Soole Garage thanks. I was just trying to figure out the biggest wheels and tires to fit with the stock frame.
How much is the car lowered ? I'm assuming the front spindles that came with the disc brake kit 3.5 inches ?
Front: 9 inch widest
Rear: 11 inch widest
What rear brake lines did you use.
I found a rear end specialist to rebuild my 12 bolt and he makes his own lines.
Is that a factory-style F41 rear sway bar (7/8"). If so did you happen to get it online? Looking to buy one for my 70 Chevelle but want to make sure it's the right factory fitment (where it sits tight to the diff).
It is the factory original 7/8 rear sway bar that came with the car. It did bolt right up to my UMI lower control arms. I have had good luck purchasing from Ground Up SS 396. Com. They specialize in Chevelle parts, and OE equipment.