REMOVING FUEL RESTRICTIONS FROM YOUR DURAMAX ENGINE!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In today’s video, we go through the engine bay and clean up a lot of the unnecessary fuel lines and get rid of some major fuel restrictions that are on the Duramax trucks. I hope you guys can use some of this information and enjoy the video
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For those trying to control fuel heat while towing. Delete the feed line going across the valley like he did. That line absorbs a lot of heat from the engine and raises the temp of the fuel. Hook straight to the feed line coming up by the fire wall run the line along the fire wall around to the filter head. What I did is I ran mine to a trans cooler in the front then to my filter head and out the filter head to the cp3 this helps a lot keeping fuel temps under control in these trucks.
the front bolt on the thermostat cover is a bleeder. open it and fill the coolant res.... when it over flows out the bleeder, cap them both and you are done....... no need for a special tool... 15:20
Did the same to my '13 duramax. Removed all the bs steel fuel lines....now it's tank through a sump-to fass 165 and factory fuel lines on the frame rail through and up by the head,2 line's straight to the pump... with added T'sfor the return and fuel pressure pip-off valve. Fuel pressure is around 5k-ish at idle
Nice video. I'd recommend not using worm gear hose clamps at all on your fuel system. I had one on my return line on my CP3 and the worm gear backed off enough that the return pressure pushed the hose off while I was in the middle of nowhere with no cell reception. Just a word of caution. I guess if you don't want to go through the hassle of changing them out, maybe put some blue Loctite on the worm gear threads.
Correct Fuel Line clamps with a locking nylon-lock or constant tension fuel clamps are much much better
You really did a great job. I wish I was closer so you could doctor my Chevy LBZ. I have an Fass lift pump and a fuel filter "U" bypass hose for the stock fuel filter. Otherwise, I am all stock. 156,000 miles on my 2007 2500 HD. Work in progress, just had hood and roof repainted because of clear coat peeling. Need to upgrade stock wheels due to clearcoat damage. Good Job.
Holy shit what a spotless shop....nice vid
Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Great video. I just recently bought a xdp coolant drain after watching your videos. So much better than making a mess everywhere.... y’all should put a kit together for doing this fuel line mod. I’d be interested!
That’s awesome man the coolant drain is totally worth it for sure! Thats not a bad idea for a kit! It would be a simple kit for sure. Not a lot of parts to it
Working in the valley of a duramax makes me grumpy af
Great video! cant wait to get this set up installed on my LLY. looking at your other videos its like a gold mine of information on how to improve a duramax
What did you do with the lines that run to you ficm
And you still have the original lines at the quick connect on drivers side. They always collapse and fail at the bend. Obviously can't collapse with a lift pump pump pressure but that rubber is still old and likely to fail any time. Then the U shaped return line by the glow plug module that needs replacement
Do you have an update on how the new 1/2” feed line makes the truck run compared to how it was before
You got some really good vids!! How did you prime that line after you hooked it back up to CP3? The fuel filter had a bleed screw so I was wondering if it was an issue getting air in the line? Ive always wanted to do this
Think his truck has a lift pump (don’t need to prime) which in my opinion all diesel should have.
Great video! Will you do a follow up video? To see how you like it after a while of having it done.
Thanks man! I’ll probably talk about it when im do something else to the engine. So far its been great though
@jordancampbell3723 have you noticed any performance improvements?
Good detail
How do I make this work on an LLY, they have a ficm so I’m confused on how to do it
I still have my stock fule filter on my lbz full delete no tune 450k miles stock everything elese still running strong wish she look as good as yours though!!!!
And I don't have a turbo cover and my ac lines are ok still that was 50k miles ago
Thats awesome man! What a crazy amount of miles thats cool its still going. I haven’t had an issue with the ac line either i just wanted to do the blanket but we will have to wait until its time for a new turbo! Appreciate the support man👍🏼
@@MrTundra2008 run and install a lift pump highly recommend 👍
Did you get any fuel temperature circuit A fault codes after removing your fuel filter ?
Great video! I'm going to have to do this. Did you do a video on your pcv reroute? Curious on hose size and t-size and where from.
Thanks man! The pcv reroute is simple man. Just 5/8 pcv or fuel rated hose and a 5/8 metal t fitting!
The return line 1/4” side. Is that going to the driver side fuel rail by the pressure relief?
It does go over there yes. Then also back there is a little loop on the fuel rail that is also a return
Where is your shop located and what a good number for it?
Did you get any noticeable gain? CP3 holding pressure better or increased pressure?
Yes I noticed that rail pressure under full throttle stays pretty nice at 24-25k it never did that before!
Dose most of this apply to lb7
Would you recommend deleting the fuel heater on the fuel filter head if it gets as cold as -30? I am using an additive aswell.
I definitely would keep the fuel heater for that and still for sure keep running additive! Thats pretty cold haha. If you have a fass they make a bad ass heater setup for their pumps as well
I’ve been wanting to do this as well
It is worth it! Cleans up the engine bay nice.
Did you have any issues after doing this? I recently did mine, ported both rail fittings and installed a race plug. I keep going back and forth from P0087 and P0088. Truck won’t go above 1700rpm.
@@ericdemoss8003 i have not had any issues. try changing your fuel filters. only other thing i could think of would maybe be a regulator but i feel like thats slim.
@@jordancampbell3723 frp is new. My fass was putting out 13psi. I cut the spring and got it down to 8psi. It’s helped but not mitigated the issue. My RPMs still fluctuate at idle. Filters are pretty new as well. I’m going to drain my tank and put new filters on. Thinking maybe I have some trash trapped
Hey Man can you get me the size on that Injector return line Reducer that you spliced into? I see it in the link but not sure what size you got?
Hey man that was a 1/8” to 1/4” reducer
Has anyone found where to purchase a 1/2" quick connect to 1/2" Barb adapter?
You can find them on summit I believe. Its a part from FASS
@@jordancampbell3723 I ended up finding them on XDP, Summit doesn't stock it anymore. Thank you though!
@@jordancampbell3723 that part is a bear to find, I'll look up the part number if you want me to post it here.
Did you do the ported fuel rail fitting(s) mod too? Got to imagine one really compliments the other.
Great video!!! Thank you! First question, your downpipe, is it a 3"-4," and from where?
Thanks man! The downpipe is a 3” from MBRP!
Where is that 1/2inch quick disconnect fitting from?
Comes with fass pumps
How'd you check the fuel line pressure without the test port being there anymore?
If you want to check it youd have to just splice a sensor into the lift pump line that feeds to the cp3 now!
Hey I just did a egr delete and cooler delete and a y bridge kit on my truck and i put my efi live on my truck thats been on the truck and i turned it on and it went to engine power reduced and how do I fix it
If it was that coincidental after you removed all that stuff i would make sure you tune supports that stuff first. Check all your sensor connections too
The thermostat kit, it can be used for stock turbo?
Yessir it will work with a factory turbo
Can you show us how to delete the ficm?
I dont believe you can do that man! Mine is an lbz and they didnt have ficm like the lb7 and lly did!
Lift pump = factory delete fuel filter and prime setup?
You dont have to but it is nice too. Cleans up a lot of space when you redo all the lines
Do you not need the fuel heater? Also, if the pump motor fails how will you prime it?
I dont drive in the winter with my and even in the winter it doesn’t get that cold really in PA. If you run an additive you are normally alright here. The fass takes care of the prime. If it were to fail i think youd have to get it fixed honestly
Would you mind making a vid even if it’s a short showing the fuel line routing to the injectors?
How much would you charge to do this on a 08 LMM? That looks greats!
If i did this again i bet i have a good 4 hours or so in it. Does your lmm have the egr in it?
What year it it
Where did your ficm go?
The lbz didnt have an ficm!
Any way to prime the system after you delete the filter?
You can really only do this if you have a fass or an air dog lift pump
Any future plans to build a kit to buy?
We may try to do that! Its only a few parts so it would be easy to throw a kit together!
Where is your ficm?
The lbz didnt have one
Did you replace the OEM fuel feed lines there at 10:25?
Nope those are still the stock fuel lines on the driver side valve cover. Just got rid of all the bs after that and went 1/2” direct to cp3 from the oem 1/2” line
@@jordancampbell3723 Yea, I don't blame you. I was looking at doing the same delete, but now I'm jacking with the P0087 code; truck runs but occasionally crashes and I'm pretty sure it's the hoses. You've got a clean truck so you probably are good for a while.
TSB #PIP4526
Another thing to check on that code would be your relief valve on the fuel rail it could be going bad
@@jordancampbell3723 Yes sir. I put a plug in it a year or two ago.
I wanted to mention that FASS still has some 3/8 still left. It’s discontinued but was still able to get one. It’s red.
Todays weird music is just mind control..
The blanket will go on, you just have to wrestle it. It's not fun but it's doable
I fought with it long enough i figured just wait till a new turbo goes in
If you take the downpipe out and loosen the pedastool bolts the flex in the uppipes will give you enough room to slide it on
Thats a great point that would probably work. Ill have to keep that in mind!
I put my PTP blanket on my LMM without loosening pedestal bolts or removing down pipe. You have to do a little maneuvering to tuck the blanket down the driver side of the intake runner. I used only one spring on the back side of the turbo under the downpipe and put the metal pan back on top of the blanket with the 2 bolts (That's what the holes in the blanket are for)because your coolant pipe needs that plate to support it. That blanket has not moved! Make sure the blanket is oriented right! The openings aren't the same size.
Can I do it to an Lly
Yepp it applies to any duramax really the lml would be a little different but same idea
On the LLY fuel runs underneath the FICM to cool it I’m guessing, if we do this upgrade do we risk overheating the FICM?
I did it nothing happens
@@Misael9090 do the lbz have a FICM?
@@Misael9090 just looked it up, will have to try it for sure
Give us a tool update
Coming soon