Buying a Foxbody 101
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- Опубликовано: 6 янв 2017
- If you're looking to pick up a Foxbody for yourself, check out this video first, know what you're looking for.
Before another person attempts to "correct" mo on the world class t5, No, they are not the "same" thing, there are very small changes in the gear ratios and the synchros, however, it's not a vast improvement, and they are by no means rare, in fact,the standard T5 was only used in Mustangs for 2 years, all Mustangs after 1985 were WC. Don't be scammed by a seller telling you that the car is something special because it has an amazing World class t-5, there's nothing special about it.
A few experienced viewers have brought up that you are more likely to see rust damage at the lower portion of the shock tower. Check out the picture to see: imgur.com/YzL43SN
Thanks for adding your expertise, Please continue to add any key info that may have been left out, if there's enough to make a part 2, i will. 
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FYI when inspecting strut towers on a fox you want to pay more attention to where the strut tower meets the frame rails down by the exhaust header. Thats where they rust out on these the quickest. The area you're referring to has no pinch welds and is a solid piece.
Thanks for the input. It's been a while since i've seen one rusted out.
The last one i saw was COMPLETELY destroyed and the guy still tried to
sell the car full price.
Yeah I hear ya. The caps can definitely go for sure like you pointed out in your video, but the pinch welds at the base will rust long before the top will. Clean fox man, had one same color looked very similar imgur.com/YzL43SN
I may post a video later on repairing the rust on the lower portion.
Premium Fuel Mag i just picked up a 87 gt barn find last winter for 750$! and it only has 33,065 miles on it. Cars in great condition. Runs drives shifts, its fun loud and mostly all original. Sounds sick right?... except for the fact i jist found rust holes in my front frame rails. Strut towers are almost perfect so thats a plus. But not sure what to do. Think its worth getting a shop to repair it? I can get both frame rail kits for 570$ of lmr
Nicholas Fitzpatrick
ruclips.net/video/wu3rIhkaH0U/видео.html
3:09 shit sounded like a sniper thought i had Battlefield 4 open xD
This is the best video I’ve seen so far on the subject. Well done.
thanks!
Thanks brotha this video helps so much looking to get my fox body build started.
I enjoyed the video. I found it very informative. Thanks for all the info.
I laughed at the "gangster lean" part, when I was younger I had a car with a worn out seat like that
Not Fox specific but a good tip is to never look at a car in the rain, it will hide a lot of the body issues that otherwise would be easy to notice with a dry finish.
Sub frame connectors may also mean the car was driven hard.
I am diggin the roll bar setup!!!
Exactly what I was looking for. Many thanks!
Same foxbody as the video with stock and flowmaster exhaust?
Awesome video. Looking to get a Foxbody this summer
Nice mustang. How long have you had it? How much did you pay for it? If you don't mind me asking😀😀
This is an excellent video! I learned alot.
I would add that you should lift the hatch and inspect the edges inside as they are prone to rust there. Similarly you should check the lips of each door on the inside as those are spots where rust starts to form. While you’re checking inside the hatch you could also check inside the spare tire well as that is another area where these foxes can rust out at. Nice fox!
Thanks for the tip. If a few more people chime in, i'll shoot a part 3
huge help man you were thorough with everything, highly appreciated
Glad this vid is getting good use
Thank you for the feedback!
Cool. Some good tips there 👍
Good info. I’ve had three of them. I want another.
Great info, just about to buy my 1st fox....body......
Thank u sir.
Thanks for the info!
Good stuff!
Thx, 4 watching.
A couple other points of interest to examine are the frame under the battery box, seat mount cracks on the floorboards and the upper control arm mounting points for the rear suspension as these will pull away from the floor.
Good point, I forgot about the upper control arm mounts. I think that gives me enough info to put out a part 2 video. Thx so much for your info.
"you want to pop the hood, and if you see a LS Engine Swap, close the hood, shake your head in deep disappointment and walk away"
the car was ford powered in this video.
@@Sgt.Slides I know.....I'm from the future....looking back 👀
ive read that the rear passenger tri-angle shaped glass being bowed out or bubbled can indicate frame warpage
that would be an extreme case, I would imagine you would also see a ripple in the "C " pillar along with that as well, thx for the input!
That irs swap! Doing one on my 88 coupe now. your hydro plumbed into the factory lines I'm guessing?
Thank you. Useful video.
Can't tell you how much a appreciate your appreciation for the foxbody it was my first car and I hate seeing them torn up for drag cars and look like crap
It wouls be nice if folks would at least FINISH building them into drag cars, but most of them are just chopped up and broken down with a bunch of "upgrades" sitting inside... waste.
Premium Fuel Mag, yes I agree my first car was a foxbody and it was sold by my neighbor without my permissions. That was ten years again and I would do anything to have my baby back. God willing I will have one again, she was a white 88 LX, with blue interior, I've never seen one like it since
Good luck, get one b4 they turn to dust!
good video ;thanks for sharing the knowledge i own a 92 lx and guard it alot from rust
I found more rust on the car this weekend doing work on it. Still nothing major, but I have no idea how long it takes that stuff to spread, I cleaned up and coated as much as I could. Makes me sad how these cars are such huge rust buckets. I'll keep doing the best I can though.
What size tires are you running? I have those same rims and I am running into issues with rubbing up front. 245/45/17 front and rear is what I have rt now thinking of trying 215/45/17 up front
are you talking about the cobra wheels? I had 245's up front, they fit great.
Premium Fuel Mag the ones you have on in this video I took them off my 2000GT 245s rub bad on my 90 Gt
Great vid !! Thanks.
What seats are those? they are super nice.
e-bay my friend, this is a budget build.
what is that roll cage in the back? i thought roll cages were from the back of the car all the way up to the front? it looks like a half a cage. i like it that's why I'm asking
It's not a cage, it's just a harness bar. You need it to properly install a 4 point harness, it does add a bit of stiffness to the body though.
In my experience of owning a few GM and 1 Chrysler cars of roughly the same vintage is the Foxes aren't that bad with rust comparatively. Of the 3 I've owned the underside was painted not bad from the factory and the rear wheel wells all had factory seam sealer and rubberized coating.
I can't really compare, Ive only owned 1 other old car, it was a mkii Golf that had lived in a field for a couple of years. That car had tons of rust but no major structural or body damage. I think it's strange how these Mustangs all rust out badly in the same spots.
There is a difference in the construction of a world class transmission vs other berg warner t5s of the time. Under the gears and the main shaft is an additional sleeve of roller needle bearings. It does not ad performance but may add longevity.....if the cheap shift fork bushings don't fail first.
The cheapest insurance for shift forks is an aftermarket shifter with positive-stop bolts to keep from bending the forks. Stock the only thing limiting the shifter movement is the fork...once you bend it you're only half-engaged in that gear, usually 3rd. Once you blow up a T-5 it's garbage. Or a really great excuse to get a Tremec
What do you think I should ask for a One Owner 92 LX 5.0 5 speed Mustang? Needs paint. Have a video of it running up here.
I hate to say, but i'm not such a great appraiser, that's why I didn't cover any kind "what you should pay" in these vids. The value of these cars fluctuates greatly depending on how popular they are and how many similar ones are around. 10 years ago, you car would probably sell for $2500 where I live, now you might be lucky to get $3500 or $4000 for it.... Where I live. Other classifieds I have see, further south and west, clean cars sell between $2000, and $3500. The best thing for you to do would be to see what's selling in your area and price your car similarly, according to the condition it's in.
This was helpful man thank you.
good luck!
Are the 2.3 foxbodys great cars?? I’m thinking about owning one, I’ve always loved the foxbodys and I’m 22 currently driving an integra
Foxes aren't "nice" cars. They're fun because they're basic, easy to work on, and they come with a brutal motor. If you take away the v8, you loose the most desirable aspect of the car. I personally wouldn't recommend it, but that's just my opinion. different folks like different stuff. Try one out and decide for yourself
classic muscle car
also the a pillars are bad for rusting out had one the car was clean of rust but a pillars were gone
Thank bro for the advice i am going to buy one that beautiful car
What is your opinion on a Foxbody with has the a4ld automatic transmission?
I tend to stay clear of anything with an automatic transmission as much as possible, They break for no reason, and they are expensive and difficult to repair, and no fun to drive. I have an extreme bias opinion on auto's though. I have heard good things about AOD transmission cars, I did some quick reading up, the a4ld isn't a direct swap to a fox car, but if you do have it, it's a little better than the AOD. A lot of folks like autos because they run consistent times bracket racing.
Do you think these are good first cars for a teen that is a car enthusiast? I want to drive something classic and these are in a great price range for me.
In all honesty, i'd say a Fox is a terrible learner car for learning to drive. they barely make 200hp, but they drive like they make 500hp. They can be very twitchy and if you don't respect the car, it will kill you... and they aren't the safest cars either. I didn't put the cage in for cool points or for racing, I put it in for actual safety enhancements. . any idiot can drive a honda civic like a nut, but if you haven't learned how to drive, you can really get into some shiznit in a fox car.
Bro I just bought a mustang 89 5.0, I want to start buying parts and upgrade parts on the engine, what do you think I should start with,
for the motor, it won't be won't your time and money unless you do it all; Heads, Cam, and intake. Doing the cam is the most work, and you have to tak off the heads and intake while doing the cam, so you might as well do it all while you're right there.... Or you could buy my motor, it already has all the upgrades.
Hey I see you own a 5.0 but people want a lot for those but is the 2.3 worth it
depends what you want out of the car, if you just want the looks and nostalgia, go for it, but the v8 is what most people want in this car, it's really up to you.
how do i get the car loud at idle?
get a cam and change the exhaust.
Whatever you do, if you see a LS swap in the car, calmly close the hood, turn to it's owner, grab both sides of their face, plant a kiss on them and say " you broke my heart Fredo", and walk away.
I almost missed the gear-shifter because of the camo?
lmao
The pinch weld area you can bend back out and tap it back to fresh
yep, I did that to mine
I have that same track jacket from Express.
lol this is true. Good for the mild spring breeze
sweet stang man 🔥🔥
im looking at buying a 1986 and the guy whos selling it says it need a new head gasket buy it runs if everything else checks out should i worrie about the head gasket?
This is a general used car buying question, but i'm happy to answer. First off, ANY old used car you buy is going to have some underlying problems, some major, some minor. Some sellers are honest and tell you everything possible so you can make a good choice, other sellers will only mention what's obvious in order to distract from less obvious major issues. JUST a head gasket on an iron block Iron heads mustang is not really a major deal breaker as long as the cost of the car reflects what you need to repair, however, over time, driving with a blown head gasket can cause major damage to other components in the engine, you also don't know what other potential damage may have been done. My rule of thumb is that if you can't hear a motor run in a car that you plan to purchase, then expect to replace the motor. Once it's in your hands, you may luck out and only have to fix that one issue, or you may come to find that the motor is trashed. Check the pricing for a head gasket replacement in your area, It may cost $500 - $800 if that's tthe only thing you need. If you keep a sharp eye out, you can probably replace the motor for under $1500 ( high estimate). So if the price is right, and you have an extra $1000 in your budget, go for it.
Premium Fuel Mag thanks man, where i live (east side of canada) used cars go dirt cheap because its a close community, this guy is only asking 2400 i checked it over and everything seems fine when i went and looked it over but you just never know lol but i think its a good deal for what i can see
Im in pg county what part a md u in? Im building fox now
I attend the Crofton meet on Wed's sometimes and i'm usually out Saturday nights looking for hang outs. Hit up the page on FB, I have a bunch of parts I need to sell, maybe you could use some on your build.
facebook.com/PremiumFuel/?ref=bookmarks
Nice video! I just bought a 87
Thx for watching. Hope you enjoy it!
Do all manual fox's grind when you put them into reverse? I heard you have to put it into 1st gear before reverse or something.
Manual cars in general can be finicky getting in reverse at times. someone more technically inclined may be able to follow up better, but I believe e it's because the reverse gear is a straight cut gear without a synchro, sometimes you have to hit the clutch a couple times to get it to engage. At it's worst, it's a minor annoyance, but not an indication of any major issues.
Ah okay, makes sense. I plan on getting a Fox soon and it will be my first manual car too. But thanks for replying.
Isaiah Robinson be careful lol! I learned to drive stick in my 90 vert and man are these cars unforgiving. Let the clutch out too quick and kiss traction goodbye lol
Sean Dunphy Haha yeah I heard something similar to that before
You gotta respect the car. you have to stay on your toes driving a Fox.
Really need help fixing my fix body I'm in temple hills MD can you help me
Add @PremiumFuelMag on IG and shoot me a DM
Premium Fuel Mag I just hit you up
Truth be told the reason why they are rust stangs is because the drivetrains are so tough that the body will rust if not coated with paint if not garaged in snow belt areas plus these cars are 25 - 30 years old now that's like a 100 for humans I've been driving these 5.0 stangs since 89 fun cars no matter what they look like i love my black on black 92 that i have still gets the broads
all old cars deal with some degree of rust, but it is especially bad on these cars. While doing rust remediation on the car this year, I discovered the cause of excessive rust in specific locations. along with using a very poor grade of steel, there are areas where there are layers of metal welded on top of each other, but not sealed from exposure, over time water flows in and those crevices retain moisture for extended periods of time. Water and raw steel is a bad combo, and once the rust starts, it's hard to stop. Add 30+ years and parts of the frame start to look like The Mummy Returns.
@@Sgt.Slides too funny man that's why i make sure to coat the front and back of the frame and the floors on every stang I've ever had especially because i live in Massachusetts this state is evil
Pinch weld gets crushed when car is raised when installing frame ties. Happened on mine :(
the steel on these fox's just seems kind of soft. I have bent my pinch welds back out since this video. Most cars can take the weight on them, Fox's really can't.
Premium Fuel Mag I know that's the truth, great video, and sweet car! New sub here.
Thx for checking it out.
Not to mention the milage rolls over at 100k
What's up with the ebrake?
Check out this vid for specifics on the build for this car. The e-brake is in, but having a few issues, hopefully that will all be sorted out soon.
Yep door hinges.
great vid also nice ebay harnesses lol i almost bought one for my 85 gt but i found a used sparco ford racing harness at a swap meet
Nice, They'll be on the upgrade list for next year.
Premium Fuel Mag
i don't know if you plan on bringing your car to a track but if you don't you can find a harness that expired but was never used you can get them very cheap
where might I find an old harness?
Premium Fuel Mag
car swap meets or on Craigslist you might be able to find one on ebay but they are usually more expensive there, im sure if you know anybody that goes to a track they have an old one or will at least be able to give you a lead
on someone that does
I have a 1993 lx coupe fact 4 cyl auto has 54k og miles that I want to do an ls2 swap I've ben looking for over 10 yrs and never seen one as clean as the one I have I'm gonna do a video on it and show all the places I have mentioned and the only thing is wrong with it is the floppy ashtray...lol
LS2 is my dream motor
Thanks. Questioning mileage on a 93 GT. Carfax shows discrepancies. Confusing.
Don't question the mileage, it's not worth the time and energy, just assume it's wrong and look at the things outlined in this video, there is 100% NO reliable way to know the mileage on one of these cars, and mileage is one of the least important factors. if you find a car with 20k legitimate miles on it, and it's been sitting under a tree for the past 10 years in a coastal town getting rained on by salt water I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole, but if you find a car out in Arizona with 300k on it that's someone's daily driver, that would be a nice find, the point is, you can't tell how many miles are on a Fox, and even if you could, it really wouldn't matter.
@@Sgt.Slides thank you. Makes me feel much better. Looking at it again tomorrow.
Lol threw me off when your speedo was sitting at 60
Watch the bottom one first work your way up first one is 3 down
i fixed my door pins for like 20 bucks cheap n easy
Is that a hydrobrake i see. Good shit.
Yep, the hydro is essential!
Should I bother to mention that the World Class T5 synchros were fiber lined steel rings while the Non World Class had bronze synchros? Wasn't exactly just marketing. The later World Class T5s had slightly stronger gears with increased nickel content. But if you aren't driving smoothly then just get a T56 or goto G-force transmissions for a T5 gear upgrade.
WC t5's are actually more common than the regular t5. The point is, don't let someone mark up the price on a car saying that the WC t5 is something special... it's not.
True, i'd agree with that. But if someone is just trying to put a car together and they don't have the budget if they know the small differences between the two and they're at a swap meet they'd probably choose a WC. But yeah the WC T5's with the Z Ford part number are more likely to be found somewhere. Who did that E-brake setup? lol that's pretty cool.
True, but buying a t5 for a build, and not knowing what parts you are looking for is a totally different scenario, even still, in that scenario, if someone tried to sell a WC t5 as something special and tried to charge a premium for it, it would still be a rip off. I did the e-brake but i've been having issues getting it to work correctly. I had a .75 that worked, but i broke it, then i swapped in a .625 and i've never had it working right since. I finally figured out that the .75 lever assembly doesn't have the same travel to allow full compression of a .625 master cyl, so i'm currently in search of a .625 lever assembly.
and look for over spray like a car that has a cheap macco paint job
Don't forget, never look at a car when it's raining! Hard to really get a look at the body
Maybe for minor scrapes and scratches, but i's say raining or after rain would be a great time to check for soggy carpets and leaks, although i'm not sure if any seller would be dumb enough to let a stranger drive their fox on wet roads.
is this a drift fox? lol sweet car man
hey dude u really no so stuff but your main thing is under the back seats
The world class T-5 can handle more torque then the stock unit could, they have a stronger 3rd gear which are known to fail... I have been putting 450 h.p. through mine for quite a while now, still its only a matter of time till it blows, my next tranny will be a Tremic...
World class t5 IS a stock unit, it just depends on what year your car is. There are subtile differences, they are interchangeable. The point is don't let someone sell you on a "WC T-5" like it's a significant upgrade, it's not, it's just a slightly different version of the standard transmission. .A stock WC T-5 is not an upgrade, check out wikipedia for details on what's different.
You said NO difference in you video and that the WC T5 was for international sale?? And now you say not an upgrade. I would kindly disagree as one is definitely better then the other, especially from 90-93:World Class & Non-World Class
"There are two basic kinds of T-5's, Non World Class (NWC) and World Class (WC). The first T-5 was non-world class. In 1983 and 84 Ford used the Non-World Class T-5 to improve the Mustangs performance and gas mileage. All the V8 NWC boxes had 2.95 first gear set with .68 overdrive. All the main output shaft gears and 1st, 2nd, 3rd, gears riding on a solid output shaft with deep oil grooves to provide lubrication. The lower counter gears spin on straight cylindrical bearings with a thrust washer in front to provide support when under load. All the synchronizer rings are made of solid bronze which are of different size than those found in a would-class T-5. It is because there is no bearing under each gear and the bronze synchro rings that the NWC use the heavy 70w gear oil. Torque rating for the NWC was 265ft/lbs.
1985, Ford introduced the World Class T-5 installed with 3.35 first gear set with a .68od behind the 5.OL. T-5 was also used behind both the standard 2.3L with a 3.97 first gearset and the SVO Mustang. SVO received a one year only 3.50 first gear ratio as the 3.97 gear ratio was too low for the added power of the turbo charged 2.3L. No longer were 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears spinning on a solid output shaft as needle bearings were installed under each gear to reduce drag. The lower counter gears saw tapered bearings to replace the bronze thrust washer. All main shaft synchro's were fiber lined steel rings to improve rings friction surface while 5th remains bronze. By improving the surface friction the synchro slows the gear faster making for smoother shifts. The design remained the same until 1989. Torque rating remained the same at 265ft/lbs.
1990 to 1993 the stock Ford production V-8 WC T-5 was upgraded with stronger 3.35 gear set by increasing the nickel content to produce a harder, stronger gear. 2nd and 3rd gear ratios were decreased slightly tp provide more torque to the rear wheels. Synchro linings on 3rd, 4th were improved by changing from fiber linings to carbon fiber to further improve the friction surface resulting in better high rpm shifts. A longer throw shifter was installed to "make shifting easier". The speedo drive gear was changed from 7 tooth to 8 tooth. The 8 tooth was a step backwards when installing lower rear axle ratio greater than 3.55 as the driven gear is limited to 21tooth count. Yes, 23 tooth gears are available but do not last long as the teeth are thin and do not mesh correctly. Torque rating jumped to 300ft/lbs.
When the 93 Cobra was introduced, so was the "Cobra Spec" T-5. It was the first T-5 with a front tapered output bearing and steel front bearing retainer. The Cobra boxes also received a reverse gear brake and synchro assembly where there was none before. Just about everything else remained the same. Torque rating was increased to 310ft/lbs."
I do agree that it is not a "Major" upgrade though!
But what would you rather have?
Ok, let me clarify, i said there was "No Difference", yes, there are some differences, however wth WC T5 is not any better than a regular T5, and i would advise anyone to pay more money for a car with a WC T5. Sellers will try to sell it to you like it's an upgrade and that it's significantly better, but it's not, and 99.9% of drivers won't notice a difference, that's why I said "No Difference". What would I rather have? I wouldn't care what version I got. The WC trans came with a variety of gear ratios (for different applications) and some slight updates, however, if you abuse the trans like an idiot, or put way too much power behind it, they will both break the same. WC T5 is not an upgrade.
"Queek Peek"
i get tongue tied sometimes.
goo.gl/images/7pAVFA This is where I'm talking about.
Took me 5 seconds to call that car a Hoopty !!!!!
Dont forget the ashtray door!!
Stupid ash tray door will always be broken lol.
Premium Fuel Mag I've had four foxes, the ashtray door is the first thing that I fix. Little things like that bug me.
They don’t have frames . Unibody
unibody yes, but the unibody still has a somewhat integrated frame which can be susceptible to the same damages, This can actually be more detrimental because you cannot simply swap a bad frame on a fox like other old schools. It's important to know what to look for when trying to spot frame damage so that you are not misled by other cosmetic defects.
Someone did shit job not painting jams wow & beat up underneath
Things you deal with purchasing a 30 year old used car.
FIRST LESSON...don't buy one if you're going to sell it!!!
Why
..you talked about the strut towers, its the frame portion of the strut towers that rott, you didnt even metion that!! also theres upper and lower tork boxes, the uppers also failed to mention that....just sayin
Someone already brought up the correct location to look for rust damage on the shock tower, that info can be added in the description help any confusion. As far as Upper and lower Torq boxes, you'd have to lift the car to really get in there and get a good look. Most folks buying a car via private sale don't bring a jack or put the car on a lift, but if they do, they probably know what to look for, and if you are inspecting based on this video, you'd still be looking in that area, so if there's damage, you'd find it.
I laid on the ground to check mine with a flash light
Im a vergan, just got my first fox for 300.
World class t5 has better parts and bearing and carbon fiber coated parts
That's a myth my friend, The synchros are updated to carbon fiber and the gear ratios can vary, Neither of these things makes a stronger transmission. also, MOST t5's are world class, Very few original t5's were produced.
An African American man with a bright red mustang? You get pulled over a lot?
Lucas Flatt lol
Very vague,limited,and some misinformation. Not impressed. Keep em' dumb so I can buy the really sweet ones.
Vague, limited. Misinformation? If you're going to be critical, then please add clarity where you see faults as others have done. I stand behind what I said about the WCt5, however I have added more clarity on the subject in part 2. Anything else?
Good point,I should've been detailed in my comment. I did so a bit in a comment on part 2. You're stating the world class is no different than early t-5's,which you corrected in part 2. Someone also mentioned the strut tower weak point at the frame rail,which you also corrected. Should've mentioned that the C-pillars at the hatch are leaded to the roof. Waves and a small about of distortion is common here. Subframe connectors. Usually means someone has strengthened the car,in order to further abuse it,lets be honest. The folded pinch welds will be a source of rust,and shows whomever was jacking on it,didn't care or wasn't knowledgeable enough to know better. Undercarriage rust right side,behind front wheel,cause = air conditioner condenser line flowing water from firewall down. If I saw someone kicking their own car,I'd walk away. Bad door pins,will cause the striker bushing to fail,and then the striker(a cheap and easy fix),prior to actual mechanism damage.Paint on inner fender liner,sign of poor prep work. I'm not here to bust you balls,in my opinion your car isn't really a good example to use anyhow. Many points you mention are valid but I could pick apart your car as one to pass up immediately for a dozen reasons. Painted mirrors,door handles,just a sign that a car has been painted,many lie about that. Different color engine bay,especially black,a good sign someone is trying to hide strut tower damage and other rusted areas. Paint on quarter glass,poor prep work. Heater core bypassed could easily pass by an uneducated buyer. Blacked out undercarriage,also a good indicator of hiding rust,former damage. Blacked out door frame and inner door,same thing. Also,at the seat mounting,it's not usually rust but weak metal that tears and distorts with time. Welds in the inner seat frame also break,leading to that back and to the right lean of the back rest. Keep it up,I wish I had more time to dedicate to the subject,maybe someday.
I never meant to present my car as a pristine example. It's got tons of flaws, but it's fairly typical of what you'd see in any fox car, and after going thru this car with a fine toothed comb, and remediating major rust in the floor boards, I can say that I never regretted purchasing this car, and I never felt like any issues I found were a deal breaker. When I spotted my strut tower rust, that's the only one that really made me cringe. There are much better condition cars out there, good luck finding one, but the reality is, most fox's you find will need something somewhere. The point of this vid is to share what I had learned thru my year-long process of shopping around. Had the sale gone thru, I would have actually paid close to the same for a much worse off car because the owner told me it had a "rare world class t5" and I believed him. It wasn't till later that I found out that MOST t5's are WC, and they really aren't a whole lot better. This vid is to help someone who might feel the door jiggle and assume that the car has frame damage, when it's really just a $25 door pin kit. If you were in the market, would you pass on a car with bent pinch welds and sub frame connectors if it was a good price, I wouldn't. Would you pass on a car with rotted out shock towers for a good price? F##K YEAH I would! lol. There are tons of other things you can find on these cars, but the majority of car buyers and sellers don't put a car up on a lift and disassemble it for inspection before sale. I believe that between part 1 and part 2 I have covered 95% of what's reasonable to look for in a typical "tire kicking" session. There are 1 or 2 other things i'd like to have had, but besides that I believe I've gotten my point across. Other folks like yourself and other commenters have also provided very valuable info to someone who is very serious about purchasing one of these, and the comments section here is a gold mine for any potential buyer. Thx for your contributions bro.
I have a sweet one for sale check it out, One Owner no dings or dents anywhere original paint 144,000 documented miles just needs paint and trim. Stock and Runs great still.