Forum ramblings, debates, naysayers, all the usual "couch potato experts" and then....enter Stefan...."Was ist das? Ich werde es tun, bitte halte mein Bier" (What is this? I'll do it, please hold my beer [according to google translate, apologies if incorrect Stefan]). Sure enough, not only was the beer held but the modified shank looked better than a factory would do. Love your work Stefan!!! You are truly talented and intelligent human being. Would like to shake your hand someday should I find myself in your part of the world! TY!
thanks for the show, really like your set-ups and explanations very informative , as for safety, your a great example, of taking time and being observant!....clean work!
Was your MT4 shank solid or does it have a slot milled into it? I was looking at one for sale but couldnt understand why it had a slot (like a morse taper sleeve) but it appears to be a fixed MT4 shank.
Just picked up a UPA5 with a fixed ISO 50 taper .. in my haste to bid on it I didn’t realize the taper was not removable ... ugh ... it’ll be a project to turn that down to R8 ...... thanks for the video. There is hope.
Cut it off and remachine the end to accept and R8 arbour, I have just got a Mizoguchi Corinthian which is a copy of the UPA3 which has had a damaged arbour which I am rebuilding to have a permanent R8 arbour, stripping it down has been easy once I found the patent drawings
Nicely done, Stefan. Sometimes it just takes the courage and confidence in believing that the outcome will be a positive one... I'm not sure I'm there yet! Well done, as usual, Stefan.
Very nice tool modification, I haven't ever seen one of those dovetailed boring heads, I will have to look it up to see what it looks like completely assembled. I hope you are having a good Summer and enjoy plenty off time in the shop, living as Adam would say, the "Shop Life" :) Aloha from the farm, Chuck
Knolltop Farms Thank you! I dont get that much shop time at the moment, but thats also fine :) If you want to see a picture of the boring head give google a shot, using "Wohlhaupter FD3" as a term, thats the type of boring head I am working on in that video. Thanks for watching and commenting, have a good time!
I have a UPA4 with a fixedMT4 shank. I have been considering taking the whole shank off and machining it recreate the interface used on the interchangeable-shank models with the clever differential-screw that clamps them together. But I have been dissuaded from this by the thought of tapping the boring head body for the screw. Do you have any feel for how "tappable" the material would be? Or if even single-point threading would be difficult? My UPA4 is definitely the most beautifully-made thing I own, so I don't want to ruin it.
Nice work, Stefan. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around metric measurements (have to remind myself that .001MM is roughly 25 times smaller than .001") but love your videos...... Thank you!
This is right up our alley, STEFAN Just what the good doctor Ordered !! We have a Walter F4042 R - 25mm Shoulder Mill with Weldon Flats, on its way, IA, which we need to turn down to 20 mm to fit in our R8 Collet. Have also been fore-warned that it is also Hardened !! And the procedure on the Lathe will be exactly similar to Yours, except slightly easier ( we hope ), as ours will not have any taper. Your use of TWO Dial (Clock) Guages makes the job even more accurate, with no allowance for errors - more like totally debarring Mr BOZO from the shop. That, we are sure, was a very good method as well. Thanks for Showing and Sharing as we definitely benefit from each and every one of Your projects - no matter how seemingly trivial. LORD BLESS aRM
Have you turned down your ID on the chuck in order to mowe it around? Mine are a glose fit with the spindle-flange so cant adjust it at all. By the way great video!
Stefan, Great camera work, love the quality close-up shots. Wish you had a Patron account so I could throw a couple of bucks in the jar ... these videos are worth it!
John M954 I have thought about Patreon, but I think I wont do it - I do my videos whenever I have time and something interesting. When there are people throwing a few bucks in the hat I will get the feeling that I have to put out a video every given time and I cant devote myselft to a strict plan as its just a hobby :) But: Watching, Commenting and sharing those videos helps very much and I get also a small amount out of the adsense money from RUclips (That money goes back 100% into my shop). Thank you John!
Stefan Gotteswinter Don't want to name people, but you're right about the Patreon thing, when it has to get too commercial the channel looses in quality. Adsense is making us very rich.... lol I'm still dreaming of the day I get enough to pay a good meal to me and my wife............ :-)) Also you're right about the fact that the channel makes great contacts with people and sometimes friendships.
pierre beaudry I have nothing against the patreon thing - I support one youtuber myself via patreon because I think he does unique and good work - But its nothing I would do (at least right now, never say never) ;) As you say, its all about fun, learning and having a good time :)
I'm a recently retired woodworker looking to expand his skillset. I've stumbled onto your videos and enjoy them very much. How about doing a machine specific apprentice series.
try K10 ally inserts next time, they work great for roughing in hardened steel, are cheap af and you could even regrind them as well when shattered. for finishing i'd recommend CBN only anyway, even if they're expensive af.
You stated that the run out is not to critical since it is a single point boring head. I don't understand this, pls explain. I am planning to do more or less the same operation but I am concerned about the run out. great vid Teun
If you think about it at all, a single-point boring head works because of run-out at the cutter. Sure, you want things to be more-or-less centred and in line so that your adjustments make sense and the cutting rake (and clearance angles and so forth) don't require any funky grinding or mental gymnastics, and things shouldn't be too grossly out of balance, but it's not critical in the way that a tool, or a holder for a tool, that cuts all the way around its rotation would be. There is just the centre of the boring head's rotation, and the cutting tool sitting some (adjustable) distance away from that centre line; where the rest of the set-up lines up isn't really all that important, within reason.
I have been watching you videos for some time now. What I want to know is what type of tool bit you are using ??/ Do you like to use Tantung or Stellite ??? How about HSSCo ??/ Or 50 percent cobalt ?? Please reply with an answer. One last thing, have you experienced that turning down a boring head to a straight shaft instead of a taper makes for more chatter ???
Hi Stefan, Thanks for sharing, I get my whiz wheel out and lob off the end of my Wohlhaupter boring head. Mine is the proper whiz wheel, guard removed, so when the excess is removed the disc explodes before the end drops on my foot. Just dial 911 and the MEDIVAC Helicopter transport me to the krankenhaus.
Why not use the original centers that should have remained from manufacture to cut between centers? I've modified similar high precision boring heads myself using the original centers first.. Im sure your double indicator method was very accurate though. Nice work, angle grinder on that made me cringe but your workmanship undid that :)
Hi Stefan nice work. could I ask you to make a video on the subject of reading metric dials I understand imperial fine but would like to work in metric and use the dials on my Harrison m300 lathe, but keep confusing my self with 10th 100ths 1000ths and .0 if you follow. as you use the metric system and have the best understanding of it on youtube ive seen, and also think our state side friends would also be interested. regards Jeff.
greasemonkeygarage watson Funny thing is: I dont know what to explain as its total native and logic for me. But I wrote it down and will try to work something somewhat understandable out - Even with the danger of getting into a metric vs. imperial pisscontest ;) All measurments in metric drawings are in mm if not called out otherwise. 1/10th of a mm is 0,1mm, 1/100th of a mm is 0,01mm and so on. If a drawing calls out 14,23 thats it. Machine it to 14,23 with the tolerance stated in the drawing (tolerances can be called out as a general in the drawing and if needed for individual measurements) FunFact: I have an very hard time to understand the imperial system. Why are drills lettered and numbered? Why not just call it by its actual diameter? Why use fractions? Decimals are deadsimple as long as one has ten fingers to count ;)
Was hard but not so hard for Stefan. I guess he would have switched to tool post grinder if the tool lathe was not so capable to cut. Anyway the owner of the boring head must pay you much more than a beer. lol
Cosimo Marotta There are ceramic inserts, or, if needed diamond inserts (+$$$+), they cut in HSS or harder if needed, NO INTERRUPTED CUTS or crunch.... Getting from 45 mm to 20 with a small tool post grinder would take days... ;-)
Them fricken hardened chrommoly chips or whatever it is give me the heebe jeebeezs, when they are stringy and moving fast like that, swinging out like a foot from the I'd of the chuck, yikes.
As it was showing the cut-off, I thought: "Oh, I bet he hates doing that". Not just because it was a Wohlhaupter , but because the angle grinder is so crude and you take such obvious pride in precision. A result that I can't even aspire to is "Not too lousy" for you! Awesome, awesome channel - keep up the good work.
Forum ramblings, debates, naysayers, all the usual "couch potato experts" and then....enter Stefan...."Was ist das? Ich werde es tun, bitte halte mein Bier" (What is this? I'll do it, please hold my beer [according to google translate, apologies if incorrect Stefan]). Sure enough, not only was the beer held but the modified shank looked better than a factory would do. Love your work Stefan!!! You are truly talented and intelligent human being. Would like to shake your hand someday should I find myself in your part of the world! TY!
I love your safety Birkenstocks!
Regards,
Etna.
Stefan,
No job seems to difficult for you !
...and you had only one chance to do it right !
Thanks for sharing!
Rags can be a very dangerous bed protector. Use aluminum foil instead; if something goes wrong it just rips.
I've always been aware of the danger of rags on the ways, but never heard of using aluminium foil, great advice
Thanks. Right.
Me, just a beginner in this area.
I will use your great advice, thank you.
The bottom line is "Did it work?" yes it did, end of story, I like your approach, 10 out of 10. Very nice job.
Shevill Mathers Thank you!
thanks for the show, really like your set-ups and explanations very informative , as for safety, your a great example, of taking time and being observant!....clean work!
Nice work, great finish.
Good Job on turning. Working with harden steel of any kind big pain. Thanks for sharing.
I machined my Wohlhaupter 3 with morse 4 taper into an R8, minus the side groove. It was pretty straight forward.
Was your MT4 shank solid or does it have a slot milled into it? I was looking at one for sale but couldnt understand why it had a slot (like a morse taper sleeve) but it appears to be a fixed MT4 shank.
@@TinkerInTheShop A normal morse 4 taper.
Very neat operation - well done
Nice little project, well done. Thanks for sharing. Randy
Tägliches Brot für jeden gelernten Feinmechaniker!
excellent work..AS IS ALL YOUR WORK, !!!
Hi Stefan, ends up good an usable tool, adapting is the key to a productive life
Always enjoy watching you do these projects brother
Great job. You always do very good work. Thanks for the video.
Just picked up a UPA5 with a fixed ISO 50 taper .. in my haste to bid on it I didn’t realize the taper was not removable ... ugh ... it’ll be a project to turn that down to R8 ...... thanks for the video. There is hope.
Cut it off and remachine the end to accept and R8 arbour, I have just got a Mizoguchi Corinthian which is a copy of the UPA3 which has had a damaged arbour which I am rebuilding to have a permanent R8 arbour, stripping it down has been easy once I found the patent drawings
Nicely done, Stefan. Sometimes it just takes the courage and confidence in believing that the outcome will be a positive one... I'm not sure I'm there yet! Well done, as usual, Stefan.
nicely done. enjoyed the video
Very nice tool modification, I haven't ever seen one of those dovetailed boring heads, I will have to look it up to see what it looks like completely assembled.
I hope you are having a good Summer and enjoy plenty off time in the shop, living as Adam would say, the "Shop Life" :)
Aloha from the farm, Chuck
Knolltop Farms Thank you! I dont get that much shop time at the moment, but thats also fine :)
If you want to see a picture of the boring head give google a shot, using "Wohlhaupter FD3" as a term, thats the type of boring head I am working on in that video.
Thanks for watching and commenting, have a good time!
Thanks again, Stefan! :)
Another nice video informative Thanks Stefan
Hi mate.
Well done. You took your time, and got what you wanted.
Marcel.
good work on the technique for a job that a lot of might need to perform some day.
That was very well done, sir. Thank you for sharing, Stefan.
Sincerely,
Tom Z
Is it more exciting, now?
Tom Zelickman Thank you, Tom!
Well done Stefan, as usual. I liked your traditional sandals and socks security shoes :D
dgedi78
Typical German, we have to wear wool socks and sandals while working.
And I'm not better... :-)
boelwerkr Just add shorts and it is true California style.
Randy Richard
Never ever make a German wear shorts. You will go snow blind. ;-)
dgedi78 Haha, yeah. Best shoes when its 35°C outside. As for the socks: I dont like sparks and hot chips on my bare feet ;)
boelwerkr We dont have that much sunny days over the year and even when its hot i prefer long pants for some strange reason :)
I have a UPA4 with a fixedMT4 shank. I have been considering taking the whole shank off and machining it recreate the interface used on the interchangeable-shank models with the clever differential-screw that clamps them together. But I have been dissuaded from this by the thought of tapping the boring head body for the screw. Do you have any feel for how "tappable" the material would be? Or if even single-point threading would be difficult?
My UPA4 is definitely the most beautifully-made thing I own, so I don't want to ruin it.
Nice work, Stefan. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around metric measurements (have to remind myself that .001MM is roughly 25 times smaller than .001") but love your videos...... Thank you!
Excellent !!
Good work.
This is right up our alley, STEFAN
Just what the good doctor Ordered !!
We have a Walter F4042 R - 25mm Shoulder Mill with Weldon Flats, on its way, IA, which we need to turn down to 20 mm to fit in our R8 Collet. Have also been fore-warned that it is also Hardened !! And the procedure on the Lathe will be exactly similar to Yours, except slightly easier ( we hope ), as ours will not have any taper.
Your use of TWO Dial (Clock) Guages makes the job even more accurate, with no allowance for errors - more like totally debarring Mr BOZO from the shop. That, we are sure, was a very good method as well.
Thanks for Showing and Sharing as we definitely benefit from each and every one of Your projects - no matter how seemingly trivial.
LORD BLESS
aRM
Have you turned down your ID on the chuck in order to mowe it around? Mine are a glose fit with the spindle-flange so cant adjust it at all. By the way great video!
Stefan,
Great camera work, love the quality close-up shots. Wish you had a Patron account so I could throw a couple of bucks in the jar ... these videos are worth it!
John M954 I have thought about Patreon, but I think I wont do it - I do my videos whenever I have time and something interesting. When there are people throwing a few bucks in the hat I will get the feeling that I have to put out a video every given time and I cant devote myselft to a strict plan as its just a hobby :)
But: Watching, Commenting and sharing those videos helps very much and I get also a small amount out of the adsense money from RUclips (That money goes back 100% into my shop).
Thank you John!
Stefan Gotteswinter Don't want to name people, but you're right about the Patreon thing, when it has to get too commercial the channel looses in quality. Adsense is making us very rich.... lol I'm still dreaming of the day I get enough to pay a good meal to me and my wife............ :-))
Also you're right about the fact that the channel makes great contacts with people and sometimes friendships.
pierre beaudry I have nothing against the patreon thing - I support one youtuber myself via patreon because I think he does unique and good work - But its nothing I would do (at least right now, never say never) ;)
As you say, its all about fun, learning and having a good time :)
I'm a recently retired woodworker looking to expand his skillset. I've stumbled onto your videos and enjoy them very much. How about doing a machine specific apprentice series.
Nice job Stefan, very nice job eh... Ü
try K10 ally inserts next time, they work great for roughing in hardened steel, are cheap af and you could even regrind them as well when shattered. for finishing i'd recommend CBN only anyway, even if they're expensive af.
where did you get your safety sandals
Nice work! I like your approach (lass die Anderen reden, ich machs).
What is your guess of what type of steel it was? Nice video on how to do with small lathe, self build tooling and brain. Cheers.
Flip de boer I might guess that its some kind of a high carbon steel...at least by the sparks it was throwing with the cutoff disc...
You stated that the run out is not to critical since it is a single point boring head. I don't understand this, pls explain. I am planning to do more or less the same operation but I am concerned about the run out.
great vid
Teun
If you think about it at all, a single-point boring head works because of run-out at the cutter. Sure, you want things to be more-or-less centred and in line so that your adjustments make sense and the cutting rake (and clearance angles and so forth) don't require any funky grinding or mental gymnastics, and things shouldn't be too grossly out of balance, but it's not critical in the way that a tool, or a holder for a tool, that cuts all the way around its rotation would be. There is just the centre of the boring head's rotation, and the cutting tool sitting some (adjustable) distance away from that centre line; where the rest of the set-up lines up isn't really all that important, within reason.
I always thought it was called "Woolhopter", but I didn't realize it was german
I have been watching you videos for some time now. What I want to know is what type of tool bit you are using ??/ Do you like to use Tantung or Stellite ??? How about HSSCo ??/ Or 50 percent cobalt ?? Please reply with an answer. One last thing, have you experienced that turning down a boring head to a straight shaft instead of a taper makes for more chatter ???
Hi Stefan,
Thanks for sharing, I get my whiz wheel out and lob off the end of my Wohlhaupter
boring head.
Mine is the proper whiz wheel, guard removed, so when the excess is removed the
disc explodes before the end drops on my foot. Just dial 911 and the MEDIVAC Helicopter transport me to the krankenhaus.
Robert Klein Sounds like perfect safe shop practice. Head on and dont loose limbs ;)
I just started the video, but I have to ask, did it explode?
Nope, no explosions. good sign :)
Why not use the original centers that should have remained from manufacture to cut between centers? I've modified similar high precision boring heads myself using the original centers first.. Im sure your double indicator method was very accurate though. Nice work, angle grinder on that made me cringe but your workmanship undid that :)
Hi Stefan nice work. could I ask you to make a video on the subject of reading metric dials I understand imperial fine but would like to work in metric and use the dials on my Harrison m300 lathe, but keep confusing my self with 10th 100ths 1000ths and .0 if you follow. as you use the metric system and have the best understanding of it on youtube ive seen, and also think our state side friends would also be interested.
regards Jeff.
greasemonkeygarage watson Funny thing is: I dont know what to explain as its total native and logic for me. But I wrote it down and will try to work something somewhat understandable out - Even with the danger of getting into a metric vs. imperial pisscontest ;)
All measurments in metric drawings are in mm if not called out otherwise. 1/10th of a mm is 0,1mm, 1/100th of a mm is 0,01mm and so on. If a drawing calls out 14,23 thats it. Machine it to 14,23 with the tolerance stated in the drawing (tolerances can be called out as a general in the drawing and if needed for individual measurements)
FunFact: I have an very hard time to understand the imperial system. Why are drills lettered and numbered? Why not just call it by its actual diameter? Why use fractions? Decimals are deadsimple as long as one has ten fingers to count ;)
Was hard but not so hard for Stefan. I guess he would have switched to tool post grinder if the tool lathe was not so capable to cut. Anyway the owner of the boring head must pay you much more than a beer. lol
Cosimo Marotta There are ceramic inserts, or, if needed diamond inserts (+$$$+), they cut in HSS or harder if needed, NO INTERRUPTED CUTS or crunch.... Getting from 45 mm to 20 with a small tool post grinder would take days... ;-)
Thanks Pierre, I appreciate your information...and your video too!
Cosimo Marotta
Wow... Thanks and you're welcome... ;-)
Did you troll on the forum about how it didn't explode when you were machining it? :-)
Of course, who could withstand that opportunity for a perfect trolling :)
i have milling machine with morse 4...and try to find such peace of german precision art head,hard to me look morse 4 is gone lol....
Them fricken hardened chrommoly chips or whatever it is give me the heebe jeebeezs, when they are stringy and moving fast like that, swinging out like a foot from the I'd of the chuck, yikes.
Almost seems sacrilegious to cut up a Wohlhaupter. But a mans got to do what a mans got to do.
sacrilegious especially as I had a went with the anglegrinder.. D:
As it was showing the cut-off, I thought: "Oh, I bet he hates doing that". Not just because it was a Wohlhaupter , but because the angle grinder is so crude and you take such obvious pride in precision. A result that I can't even aspire to is "Not too lousy" for you!
Awesome, awesome channel - keep up the good work.