Fitting a Shank to a Tenthset Boring Head
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2021
- I needed to modify a standard boring head shank to fit a Tenthset boring head.
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/ stuartdeharo
Very satisfying, I'm sure!
I think most of us in the states say "ver-neer" as you do. Those who insist insist on the French pronunciation are the type of bores who say Wien and Venezia when bragging about their travels.
I wish I could like this more than once. I guess giving it a heart and pinning it at the top will have to do.
I couldn't agree more, despite my name. There's a good argument for the American pronunciation anyways, in The olden days virtually all machinists pronounced it VER-NERE because it was mistakenly believed to be VERY NEAR
My favorite is when such an individual uses the word “Nicaragua” mid-sentence but breaks into a perfect Spanish accent for just that word. It’s a thing. Not a moral sin or anything but fun to listen to.
@@836dmar I used to live in Dallas Ft. Worth and saw that all the time. It's fun.
But they do say Herb and not erb.
Great video lesson. Like many people I learn best by a good video rather than reading something. Yours are always very well presented. Thank you.
Agreed, the pucker factor is high coming up to a shoulder like that which is quite common in my experience!
Joe Pie promotes an upside down tool, reverse rotation, away from the shoulder approach which I haven't actually tried.
I admit to almost never disengaging the half nut.
Using a stop the rpm and reversing technique.
So often threading is the last operation between a Part and a shitter with time and material utilised or thrown away!
I do like the ease the grease made with the wires, I shall be doing that from now on!!
Relatively new to machining, bought a Criterion boring head off Ebay for my new to me 1965 Bridgeport. It came with some weird thing between the shank and the head that turned out to be a device for taking tenths. Not sure that I or my mill will ever have the ability to make use of it, but it's still pretty neat to have.
That's pretty cool. I've never seen that before. Got any pics you could share?
@@StuartdeHaro Email sent.
Just wanted to say thank you. I for one really like the classroom effect so to speak. I like that you stay on one particular lesson but manage to predict the questions that will arise and answer them ahead of time. Just as an example, your tips along the way followed by letting us get a good centerfold of the tool. Just wanted you to know that I really get a lot from your videos, I'm just a poor, so I always try to thumbs up and comment to aid the algorithm, the almighty algorithm.
Very nice job, sir.
great video! thanks for sharing. also i say "very near" because that's about as close as i can read them
Nicely presented Stuart. Thanks for sharing.
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Most enjoyable to watch such a project and know that it is done precisely. Nice machining...
Interesting video.Thank you.
Enjoyed watching the alteration of tool. Thanks.
As a native French speaker, I confirm that your second attempt to pronounce 'vernier' is the right way of pronouncing it ... at least if you want to stick to the original French word. Very pedagogical video as always ! Congrats.
Thanks for your input. I assure you that the emphasis I put on it was for comedic effect only. My usual French pronunciation is considerably more pathetic. Bonjour!
Nice video. Thanks!
8:32 I concur. *NICE.*
Very neat, thanks.
I used to use them small rubber bands on my wires.
I'm actually planning a video talking about different ways of holding wires and testing whether the measurement is affected by them. I have a few others to shoot first, but it will be out sometime in the next couple of months.
Stuart, excellent well done love the detail and explanations. Your providing a great service, thank you!
But wait; Frog Fur ?????
ATB….Dean
Yup. Frog fur is very fine. Much thinner than the skin of one's teeth.
Hello. As a rookie machinist I would like to know why you didn't use a physical stop when threading in an attempt to lower things on the "pucker" scale. Learning lots, ...thanks.
My lathe doesn't have a stop that will disengage the feed, so it would have only added to the pucker factor. One more thing to crash into.
Stuart you should do one or two passes in real time so people can get a feel of the feeds and speeds they need when you're showing them these processes
Also did you do any spring passes? I didn't hear you mention them
Yes. As soon as I start measuring, I do a spring pass before each measurement. It has been a while since I recorded this. I thought I had done a real time pass right at the beginning of the threading. I usually try to for that reason.
Good video, how big a hole can you bore with that head? Is it mainly for smaller holes? thank you :)
I'm not sure. It doesn't have much travel, so I'm guessing an inch tops out of the center hole. There is a side hole too, so you could go bigger through that, but I wouldn't hang the bar too far out of it.
How do you determine the class/fit of the internal thread of the head?
In this case, I didn't really need to. I just went off the standards for the external thread. If you have a part that you're wondering what the fit should be, I look at the purpose of the part. If it will be frequently assembled and disassembled, especially in a dirty environment, use class 1. For general purpose fastening like this use class 2. If it needs to transmit motion accurately use class 3. To check the fit of internal threads, the most common tool is a set of plug gages that are ground to the upper and lower limits of the pitch diameter. This is a go/no-go gage, so if the lower limit threads in but the upper doesn't, you're somewhere within the limits. If the upper limit threads in you've made the thread too large and it's scrap. I hope this covers what you were asking. Thanks for watching!
Did you feed in with the cross slide when threading? It appeared that the compound angle was set at 60 degrees rather than 29-30 degrees.
You know, I don't actually remember what I did. I recorded this several months ago, March if I'm not mistaken. It took me a while to get around to editing it and then I kept pushing it back in favor of other videos. I'll rewatch it and let you know.
Yup I definitely fed in with the crossfeed on this one. I almost certainly did that out of laziness more than anything else, so don't read too much into it. It's just so damn hard sometimes to reach over to the headstock and get the Allen wrench that I keep there for adjusting the angle of the compound. I hope you understand.
@@StuartdeHaro Given that shoulder and how close the tool was to crashing against it, feeding in with an angled top slide changes the half nut disengagement point for each pass. Done visually the way you did it wouldn't make any difference though. I like to use a zeroed indicator for work like this and when to kick the half nuts out. So a lot more to calculate and keep track of with the top slide angled. With fine threads like this there's probably little difference between straight in or using the angled top slide. It worked out fine and does exactly what you set out to do so that's the only important part. A real nice head that makes even my Criterion's look cheap. :-)
You mentioned offhand that criterion boring heads are threaded 5/8ths. I recently picked up a criterion 202 on a 50 taper shank. I need to swap it for a 40 taper. I haven't dug into it yet, but I was intimidated on first sight to try to separate them. I wasn't positive it was a thread, a reverse thread, or a taper. Do you happen to know if that is true of all criterion heads? And is it standard right hand threads? Any particular tips for separating them?
Actually no. The Tenthset one in the video is threaded 5/8-18, but Criterion head will have one of two threads depending on the size of the head, either 7/8-20 or 1-1/2-18.
It should be a 7/8ths X 20 right hand thread with a 202 head since that's what mine is. If it's a really old head? I have no idea if they ever used anything different back then. Unscrewing the head from the shank? If someone didn't do something stupid like loctiteing the head to the shank it should be fairly easy. A couple of square bars machined to fit the 50 taper drive slots and a bit over size than the slots are deep, hold those in a bench vise to keep the shank from rotating, then use a close fitting 1/2" diameter shaft in the Criterion heads horizontal cross hole. It should come off without much problem.
@@StuartdeHaro very helpful thank you very much
@@turningpoint6643 thanks much, exactly the information I needed
@@jpsimon206 Your welcome.
What make lathe is that Thank you
It's an Enco 12 x 36.
I would have used a class 3 thread for that. No need for a sloppy class 2.
I suppose you're right, but since the boring head is being adjusted for every job, then it really doesn't matter at all. It's also locked in with a set screw, so the shank thread doesn't move unless you're taking the head off the shank.
@@StuartdeHaro It'll function but it's a shame because when you were at .6356 you were smack dab in the middle of the class 3A range 👍and I guarantee the head has a class 3B thread. So that last .001 cut took out .0032 and put you in the middle of 2A range introducing needless clearance.
Why not just try the part you are trying to fit instead of using wires to measure the diameter?
You can absolutely do that as long as you start test fitting early. You don't want it to fit on the first try since you have no idea if you've gone too far.