Great experiment-- thanks for sharing! The company I work for ran a similar test, but only 7 weeks. Some similar products were used. The ultimate winner for outdoor storage (in Singapore) was Corrosion X-HD. LPS-3 was a close second. Would be interested to see CorrosionX-HD added to the next round of testing.
Great update. I will be changing up my preferred rust inhibitor based off of this test. It also reminds me of the fact that it is illegal for one to leave an alligator tied up to a fire hydrant in Detroit.
I know I'm too late for the new test cycle, but I hope you got the chance to add "Frame Saver" to the mix, this is the standard for spraying Inside of a bike frame as a rust inhibitor.
I’ve been using Boeshield and LPS 3 for years. Recently I picked up some Fluid Film because it seemed like a bargain against my go-tos. I’m sure it’s a good product, but the lanolin smells like wet sheep. It’s slimy too. Probably great for long term storage or attracting rams around Letterkenny. But it’s off my list for shop use. Just my 2¢. Thanks for all your great testing and content! Keep it between the fence posts.
Interesting. Would love to see Lithium grease and Silicone lubricant (both in a spray form) and also 3in1 (which I was surprised wasn't in this first round already). Thanks for your work!
Thanks for the interesting experiment and fun presentation of results If you are going to repeat it you might consider including ordinary mineral oil (eg 3 in one) and paste wax as these are commonly used in workshops to prevent rust.
Man... That's a real bummer about the WD-40 Test... Was looking forward to seeing how well that did! Still, this is an amazing video! & I think it shows that most Rust coatings are not good past 6 months.
In europe we have such spray that can be spayed on repaired metal. Its called brunox... but i sthink it clasifies more like paint. That could be nice experiment to. Cuz lots of DIY car repairs with removed rust fails in alot of cases. For this test just get pieces rusty and treat with salt water daily for like a week. Clean it with hand wire brush... and second set of examples with grinder wire brush.
There's a RUclipsr named Mustie1 that works on all kinds of cars, bikes, mechanical things in general. He lives up in New Hampshire I think, and he's been using a mix of chainsaw bar oil thinned a little with 10W. Considering where he lives, if I ever need to rustproof something, that's what I'm using.
Good to see you! I love the test and Boeshield found that it was not a performer for my steel samples. Maybe on aluminum? Boeing hasn’t been doing so great in recent times so maybe they have lost some steps. enjoy RUclips but am not a Patreon user.
I was worried for a moment that wd40 was actually good at something. That would not be ok. I'm not sure any rust inhibitor works outside. Use a properly treated steel or paint it.
Merry Christmas Stuart 🎄🎄👍🎄🎄. Thanks for the update. Stefan Gotteswinter just released a video today (12-25-2023) where he covers the various chemicals he uses in his shop, including 4 prefered rust inhibitors (starting at 11 minutes into his presentation). He liked the LPS which has performed horrible in your testing. But the 3 others he mentions where ones I've never heard of before. Maybe you are already considering them?
I’m thinking for an internal spray for a bicycle frame. Some spray formulas may be more viscous and better suited for a full coverage using a tube insertion. Idk 🤷? Application of the spray formula may be different. Idk 🤷? Adhesion Idk 🤷
Interesting. Back in the 80s the detail boys at our autobody shop would quit and someone would have to take over RustCheck TM duties. Drill holes and basically soak vehicles with a long pressurized wand with oily pink RustCheck. We had a concrete walled pit out back for that. I did a few. Later my daily drivers to school and work the next few decades were Datsun 510s and they needed help so i bought cans of RustCheck and soaked them down occasionally. It would dry up but it helped keep rust at bay. In YVR. Now i have a daily 99 4Runner and it's showing some signs of rust underneath and that's how i arrived here. It will get hot soon and id like to blast the bottom with the pressure washer, let it dry and do some spraying of something after it dries out. I could get out the undercoating gun and do that but undercoating also seals in inside moisture from condensation and leaks. Oils let your vehicles breath a bit. So... Should i try LPS3? Fluid Film whatever that is? Or RustCheck (next fall becaue it drys out fast)? Dew point and general solvent/oil evaporation is a huge part of this Entrumpy corrosion problem.
Great test. Eager for the next update. A rattle can spray polyurethane and Rustoleum clear coat would be good additions for the test even though not labeled rust inhibitors. Can you considering adding them to the next round?
Just found your channel, subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos. Since I'm new here, my comments/suggestions might have already brought up. With metal testing, have you considered spraying the samples with brake cleaner first? That stuff will remove almost any transparent coating, without leaving a coating, ensuring your samples are fully clean. I don't know if it would have helped in the last two you tested if the metals are actually different, but just a thought. Also, have you considered wrapping the samples in plastic to retain the moisture? It would speed the process up considerably. It seems you prefer actual conditions and that is commendable, but if each metal section was subject to the same conditions, even if not outside, they should still yield a similar result. Anyway, I really like your approach to testing and look forward to seeing more.
New subscriber here - really enjoying your videos. Could you please add labels (either physical or digital) to the samples as you talk about them? I sometimes pause and come back, or I'm working on my 2nd monitor, and I forget which product you're referencing when talking about a sample.
I've heard that it is illegal to commit murder in New Jersey while wearing a bullet proof vest. Somehow I think the murder bit should be the bigger issue than any personal protective equipment one may happen to be wearing during such nefarious activities. Interesting results on the rust inhibitors. Your results pretty much match my experience with a few I haven't tried. I wish I could remember what an old timer told me to try. He swore anything coated in the stuff would not rust, needed little maintenance, and "farmers use it all the time." Funny, every farm I've ever been to was full of rusty stuff.
I believe so. I'll have to check my list. I've been running into the issue that some sprays are only available in case quantities and I really don't need that much.
I forget, did you clean the steel samples with acetone or similar before applying the various sprays? Also, have you been able to control water standing uniformity on the horizontal sections? Love the fun experiment and appreciate your approach to video making.
I did clean and sand them before spraying them. The horizontal legs are pretty uniform, but that’s a good point. I'll take a bit more care and level everything next time.
1:24 did I miss an evaluation of the fluid film product? It seemed to fare well in this picture, but I did not see an evaluation. Can you explain this for me? Thanks and Merry Christmas Stuart
At 7:55 he explains why. There is some question as to the material used in those samples. Possibly tin plated steel. Likely this is the case as there is a 0% chance WD-40 kept plain steel completely rust free for a year exposed to the elements.
Thanks, I was curios as I bought some fluid film for my truck and car as in my research this seemed to be one of the best products for this. Cheers!@@ronrinock6943
Which ones do you think would be best for tight crevices where I cannot guarantee perfect spread? I can though position the item horizontally until it dries up.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks! Would it be a problem that I won't be able to ever clean it? Is the LPS 3 fine with the re-application being on a non-cleaned surface?
@@PhumipatSukying-y9v No. Like I said in the video, I believe the samples I used for WD-40 and Fluid Film are actually tin-coated steel, so I will be retesting those.
"CRC SP 400" and also "Blaster Surface Shield", should both be able to outperform any of the products in your test thus far! But don't take my word for it....test it! 😉
I watched your 6 month update and was excited over the Fluid Film result, but soon became very disappointed after watching the 1 year update and learning that the sample was likely tin plated steel. I really think you should edit each of your videos to state that so that people don't go out and buy a product based on a flawed test.
I would like to, but I don't think I can without re-uploading it and I think that would lead to more confusion. Based on comments from people who have used it, it is a very good product though.
@@basstrixyt I'm working on that now. It has taken longer than expected to source some of the inhibitors and some that were highly recommended could only be bought by the case, so I've had to pass on those.
Great experiment-- thanks for sharing! The company I work for ran a similar test, but only 7 weeks. Some similar products were used. The ultimate winner for outdoor storage (in Singapore) was Corrosion X-HD. LPS-3 was a close second. Would be interested to see CorrosionX-HD added to the next round of testing.
A few years away?! Now i have to sort out my health to make sure I last that long. Gosh darn it!
Since you already have the rusted mild steel, now would be an excellent opportunity to test rust conversion/removal chemicals..
I would like to see too!
I did a big corrosion study for Maserati aluminum isolation, and Tin-zinc coating for steel fasteners was the winner.
Great update. I will be changing up my preferred rust inhibitor based off of this test. It also reminds me of the fact that it is illegal for one to leave an alligator tied up to a fire hydrant in Detroit.
I'm no biologist, but I don’t believe alligators range that far north.
@@StuartdeHaroSoon, my friend, soon enough....
Moral of the test, use zinc plated mild steel!
I have always liked LPS3! Works great in my basement shop.
Thank you! This information is truly valuable. I will save time and money doing trials and errors.
Aircraft mechanic here....I'd really like to see LPS 3 compared to ACF-50 and Corrorsion X please 😊😊 Awesome videos bro!!
LPS 3 is definitely going to come back for a head to head battle with whatever sprays come out on top in the future.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks!
I know I'm too late for the new test cycle, but I hope you got the chance to add "Frame Saver" to the mix, this is the standard for spraying Inside of a bike frame as a rust inhibitor.
I’ve been using Boeshield and LPS 3 for years. Recently I picked up some Fluid Film because it seemed like a bargain against my go-tos. I’m sure it’s a good product, but the lanolin smells like wet sheep. It’s slimy too. Probably great for long term storage or attracting rams around Letterkenny. But it’s off my list for shop use. Just my 2¢. Thanks for all your great testing and content! Keep it between the fence posts.
Good to kow,Stuart.Thank you.
Interesting. Would love to see Lithium grease and Silicone lubricant (both in a spray form) and also 3in1 (which I was surprised wasn't in this first round already). Thanks for your work!
Thanks for the interesting experiment and fun presentation of results
If you are going to repeat it you might consider including ordinary mineral oil (eg 3 in one) and paste wax as these are commonly used in workshops to prevent rust.
Man... That's a real bummer about the WD-40 Test... Was looking forward to seeing how well that did!
Still, this is an amazing video! & I think it shows that most Rust coatings are not good past 6 months.
In europe we have such spray that can be spayed on repaired metal. Its called brunox... but i sthink it clasifies more like paint. That could be nice experiment to. Cuz lots of DIY car repairs with removed rust fails in alot of cases. For this test just get pieces rusty and treat with salt water daily for like a week. Clean it with hand wire brush... and second set of examples with grinder wire brush.
It would be interesting to including Ziebart and Krown (if available), ceramic car wax & sulfurated cutting oil/way oil.
I was wondering about ceramic car wax.
Would be great if you tested lanolin
There's a RUclipsr named Mustie1 that works on all kinds of cars, bikes, mechanical things in general. He lives up in New Hampshire I think, and he's been using a mix of chainsaw bar oil thinned a little with 10W. Considering where he lives, if I ever need to rustproof something, that's what I'm using.
Cool, looking forward to the next set of tests. Maybe you should review zinc plating kits.
Good to see you! I love the test and Boeshield found that it was not a performer for my steel samples. Maybe on aluminum? Boeing hasn’t been doing so great in recent times so maybe they have lost some steps.
enjoy RUclips but am not a Patreon user.
Thanks!
Thank you very much for the Super Thanks! I really appreciate it!
I was worried for a moment that wd40 was actually good at something. That would not be ok. I'm not sure any rust inhibitor works outside. Use a properly treated steel or paint it.
Merry Christmas Stuart 🎄🎄👍🎄🎄. Thanks for the update.
Stefan Gotteswinter just released a video today (12-25-2023) where he covers the various chemicals he uses in his shop, including 4 prefered rust inhibitors (starting at 11 minutes into his presentation). He liked the LPS which has performed horrible in your testing. But the 3 others he mentions where ones I've never heard of before. Maybe you are already considering them?
Merry Christmas to you too! I'll check it out. The LPS is actually the winner of this round. It's a great product.
Thanks for the video!
I’m thinking for an internal spray for a bicycle frame. Some spray formulas may be more viscous and better suited for a full coverage using a tube insertion. Idk 🤷? Application of the spray formula may be different. Idk 🤷? Adhesion Idk 🤷
Interesting. Back in the 80s the detail boys at our autobody shop would quit and someone would have to take over RustCheck TM duties. Drill holes and basically soak vehicles with a long pressurized wand with oily pink RustCheck. We had a concrete walled pit out back for that. I did a few. Later my daily drivers to school and work the next few decades were Datsun 510s and they needed help so i bought cans of RustCheck and soaked them down occasionally. It would dry up but it helped keep rust at bay. In YVR. Now i have a daily 99 4Runner and it's showing some signs of rust underneath and that's how i arrived here. It will get hot soon and id like to blast the bottom with the pressure washer, let it dry and do some spraying of something after it dries out. I could get out the undercoating gun and do that but undercoating also seals in inside moisture from condensation and leaks. Oils let your vehicles breath a bit. So... Should i try LPS3? Fluid Film whatever that is? Or RustCheck (next fall becaue it drys out fast)? Dew point and general solvent/oil evaporation is a huge part of this Entrumpy corrosion problem.
Great test. Eager for the next update. A rattle can spray polyurethane and Rustoleum clear coat would be good additions for the test even though not labeled rust inhibitors. Can you considering adding them to the next round?
I'm trying to avoid anything like paint, clear coat, varnish, etc just because they are definitely more durable than these temporary sprays.
Two bigs ones missing. Blaster Surface Shield and NHOU (New Hampshire Oil Undercoat).
@@jasoncharles6980 I'm going to test Surface Shield in the next round. I just need to find the time to start.
Just found your channel, subscribed and I'm looking forward to more videos. Since I'm new here, my comments/suggestions might have already brought up. With metal testing, have you considered spraying the samples with brake cleaner first? That stuff will remove almost any transparent coating, without leaving a coating, ensuring your samples are fully clean. I don't know if it would have helped in the last two you tested if the metals are actually different, but just a thought.
Also, have you considered wrapping the samples in plastic to retain the moisture? It would speed the process up considerably. It seems you prefer actual conditions and that is commendable, but if each metal section was subject to the same conditions, even if not outside, they should still yield a similar result.
Anyway, I really like your approach to testing and look forward to seeing more.
New subscriber here - really enjoying your videos. Could you please add labels (either physical or digital) to the samples as you talk about them? I sometimes pause and come back, or I'm working on my 2nd monitor, and I forget which product you're referencing when talking about a sample.
Will do!
I've heard that it is illegal to commit murder in New Jersey while wearing a bullet proof vest. Somehow I think the murder bit should be the bigger issue than any personal protective equipment one may happen to be wearing during such nefarious activities.
Interesting results on the rust inhibitors. Your results pretty much match my experience with a few I haven't tried. I wish I could remember what an old timer told me to try. He swore anything coated in the stuff would not rust, needed little maintenance, and "farmers use it all the time." Funny, every farm I've ever been to was full of rusty stuff.
I feel that has to be mob-related, right?
@StuartdeHaro I would ask next time I'm in the area, but I don't want to "disappear." Haha.
Please try surface shield by Blaster. $8 a can here, Great videos 👍
A while ago I had suggested the Scoutcrafter 50/50 mix. Did that make the list for the new year’s test?
Thank you for doing this!
I guess plenty of people have suggested XCP Rust blocker ?
I believe so. I'll have to check my list. I've been running into the issue that some sprays are only available in case quantities and I really don't need that much.
i think you will find the fluid film will rival the lps3
Would like to see Corrosion Free 3000 in the next batch.
Please add the disclaimer about the WD40 and Fluid film to your order videos.
I forget, did you clean the steel samples with acetone or similar before applying the various sprays?
Also, have you been able to control water standing uniformity on the horizontal sections?
Love the fun experiment and appreciate your approach to video making.
I did clean and sand them before spraying them. The horizontal legs are pretty uniform, but that’s a good point. I'll take a bit more care and level everything next time.
@@StuartdeHaro very cool
1:24 did I miss an evaluation of the fluid film product? It seemed to fare well in this picture, but I did not see an evaluation. Can you explain this for me? Thanks and Merry Christmas Stuart
At 7:55 he explains why. There is some question as to the material used in those samples. Possibly tin plated steel. Likely this is the case as there is a 0% chance WD-40 kept plain steel completely rust free for a year exposed to the elements.
Thanks, I was curios as I bought some fluid film for my truck and car as in my research this seemed to be one of the best products for this. Cheers!@@ronrinock6943
Wait I’m confused, was WD40 not the clear winner?
Did he not say that sample was tin coated ?
Was the rust inhibitors only sprayed on or was it also wiped with a cloth?
@@couldbme8102 Just sprayed
I would like to see how corrosion free stacks up. They claim a treatment will last up to 18 months.
I second this.
Which ones do you think would be best for tight crevices where I cannot guarantee perfect spread? I can though position the item horizontally until it dries up.
Definitely one of the more liquid ones. I'd say LPS 3 would be my first choice. It went on very thin and performed quite well.
@@StuartdeHaro thanks! Would it be a problem that I won't be able to ever clean it? Is the LPS 3 fine with the re-application being on a non-cleaned surface?
@@beepwhoop I don't think it will be an issue. The film just coats and dries. It might be a problem if you want to paint it though.
This test, WD-40 is the best?
@@PhumipatSukying-y9v No. Like I said in the video, I believe the samples I used for WD-40 and Fluid Film are actually tin-coated steel, so I will be retesting those.
"CRC SP 400" and also "Blaster Surface Shield", should both be able to outperform any of the products in your test thus far! But don't take my word for it....test it! 😉
@@danieljrgensen133 I tested SP 400 in this test. Surface Shield is going to be in the next round.
In Oregon, it is unlawful to wash your donkey in your bathtub. Sounds like a euphemism but it's really just an outdated law from the 1800's.
But how else are you going to do it? Seriously though, what oddly specific situation required that law to be written?
In Vermont its illegal to paint your horse.
How many times did THAT have to happen for them to make a law against it?
@@StuartdeHaro old blue law...
I think it's more about hiding or selling stolen horses than the act of defacing a equine.
I watched your 6 month update and was excited over the Fluid Film result, but soon became very disappointed after watching the 1 year update and learning that the sample was likely tin plated steel. I really think you should edit each of your videos to state that so that people don't go out and buy a product based on a flawed test.
I would like to, but I don't think I can without re-uploading it and I think that would lead to more confusion. Based on comments from people who have used it, it is a very good product though.
@@StuartdeHaro Good to know that it is still considered a good product. Overall, I liked your tests and will be on the lookout for the next round.
@@basstrixyt I'm working on that now. It has taken longer than expected to source some of the inhibitors and some that were highly recommended could only be bought by the case, so I've had to pass on those.
lmao