How to fix your broken, slow, or just plain lazy electric window motor **FOR FREE!**
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- Опубликовано: 23 сен 2020
- Have a car window that doesn’t want to go up, down, or really do anything other than carfax and chill? In this episode we show you how to breathe some new life into that lazy motor of yours!
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One simple tip to improving slow window operation is to leave the engine running when you're parking and you put the windows up. The charging voltage is something over 14 volts compared to possibly under 12 with the engine off and all the retained power accessories and lights still on.
Window guides are adjustable in or out as you tested w/o the window regulator assembly installed. Loosen the bolts looking for lateral movement away from the window. A rat-tail file chucked into a drill and a 4” length of conduit can guide the file. Reverse the drill motors direction to guide it the direction you need to make the frame wider. Since on the rear, the felt does not wear, but are cheap. The dielectric grease is a nice touch, but over time it will bind the window or migrate upward to show on the window when up.
Armature is the part that goes around. The commutator plates is what you have cleaned. When the window stops at full up or down, the current increases significantly. To protect this over-current event, the wires that disappear in the plastic have a PTC thermistor installed. This polymer solid state device starts to open when the amps get to high. It gets hot. A resistance test on both ends of brush to wire should read the same. If one is high, the PTC device is failing, basically reducing the proper current to the motor. While running the motor, you can use the amp (High) side of DMM will measure between 10-15 amps. Check it at the motor with good jumpers. Some manufacturers place the PTC thermistor inside the “Circuit Breaker” at the fuse box. Some leave it out completely as it adds an extra $1.33 for a vehicle with 4 windows. These circuit breakers are used on power seats as well.
But, it no load, beside peak current on cold motor, the amps measure 8 amps, if the circuit beaker reduces current to 5 amps, you window will never move like new. I grew up in an era that parts in boxes came from dealers. We rebuild the carb, starter, distributor or window motor. Only after proper testing, like voltage drop and current(Amps). Especially if it was a 28 mile drive to get a part, then drive back. Or better yet, wait 3-6 days to get $180 part we fixed with a 18 cent part. Happy, happy, Joy, joy! ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Are the armatures interchangeable
@@kristineharris1533 Kristine, that is a very good question! The armature is for right, left and perhaps even the entire motor. In case that is what you meant. Use you resources like “Rock Auto”. Find the make, year, model then list by category opens up. Also, depending if you are using a phone or laptop (Laptop is better) but some vehicles have different options. It effect many things but not window motors. On Rock Auto, they will have a box once you pick the engine. It is search box so keep words simple. Type in window motor. Sometimes they sell it alone, sometimes it’s the entire window regulator which is different from left to right as the curve with the shape of the door. Sometimes it is where the electrical connector is located is the only difference. I am sorry but I never got an email about your question but hope this helps.
Holy cow, nice post. Copying and saving for my personal reference!
Wow, your brain needs to be downloaded into a database. Too much knowledge being lost!
@@kristineharris1533 This is a good question. The armature is the part of an electric motor that spins. Looking at a particular application may show left and right in a motor. The armature is inside and with either side listed as one part number generally means it fits either side. As D/C motors go, all you are doing is reversing polarity to change directions. As far a fitment, it has to deal with who the motor mounts onto the window regulator. The switch provides constant ground but changes sides for “B+” for rotation or up & down. I have a 1967 Chevy C10 and within an online forum called 67-72C10 they have a search that will find previous post that take newer vehicle power window regulators and weld the motor assembly onto the the trucks OEM regulator.
I am off topic but the armature is inside the motor. The positive temperature coefficient thermistor is at the front of the actual GM motor behind the end cap where the connector goes. Folks may not know this, but replacement devices have male electrical terminals while the vehicle harness side is alway female.
I hope this helps!
Without taking the door apart, try spraying the window guides with silicone spray lubricant, which dries quickly and doesn't gunk up. That spray would also help clean and lube the metal track. If that doesn't help, and you take the door panel off, first try using De-Oxit contact cleaner sprayed into the area of the commutator, if you can figure a way to get get the spray into that part of the.motor w/o taking it out or apart. Then test the motor before removing it and taking it apart. If you do take the motor apart, DeOxit works great for cleaning electrical connections of all types, including washing the carbon out of the commutator segments and cleaning the surfaces of the commutator segments.
Great video man!! Thank you!! I had to do this multiple times on my 03 350z.... im happy to see these are the same. Subscribed.
Liked - excellent video.
My left rear had trouble pulling the window open, and the operation was slow, so I took the motor out for a little look. Very little wrong that I could see, but i hit the commutator with a scotchpad and electrical contact cleaner (rather than WD40) and gave the brushes a tickle with a cotton bud. Caked the worm drive and bearing faces with fresh grease, as well.
I timed the window before cleaning - took 7.5 seconds. After? 5.5 seconds. MASSIVE improvement.
Thanks dude! Both motors on my 350z sounded like they were having to lift a billion ton window. Some rubbing alcohol and some cotton buds and now they're good as new.
I like the old gears, wheels, and rails power window elevator assemblies, rather than these cable pull/tug/wind-up power window assemblies.
Just caught your video great job i have always put a little wd/grease on each side of window in the rubber where the window rides up and down see if that along with your trick doesnt make them alot quicker
Thanks sir i really need this video
Lurnt sumpm noo aguin. My dore wynders r a mite slow. Thankye
Patience, I've got a whole lot of. Sense of humor....I make myself laugh at times.
Thanks very much
Youre a legend 👍 i did exactly what you said but instead of cleaning the inside of the motor out with WD40 I used MAS air flow cleaner on everything and lightly sanded the black gunk off the connection point where the bushes touch and my window works like it is brand new.
Glad this helped!
White lithium grease works well on the roller guides and the teeth. Much more durable and plays nice with electricity
great video and even better comments.
lovely.
Silicone lubricant works well in window tracks and is less of a dust magnet that. Grease right?
Another thin that'll cause resistance/hangups is if the fasteners holding the siderunners onto the window work loose and/or fall out, causing the window to shift diagonally in the runners due to a sloppy fit.
Great info!
I have found that I have a broken wire going to the brushes and my style is it's got brush on each end with a clip in the middle do you know where I can find those brushes at
The reason the window is having a hard time is probably cause the guide or protector over the aircraft cable is all gunked up inside...
Can you show a middle-aged divorcee how that's done?
I just started watching this and the first 9 seconds were enough to make me like the video with the "grand opening"! Funny!!!
You have a lousy sense of humour
replace the brushes' short ones don't press hard enough for good contact. lube the rails with dry silicone
I found it my brushes have a broke wire it's got a clip in the middle with a brush on each end do you know where I can find those The brushes
You are awesome, I don't care what anyone says.
Fine steel wool will clean the commutator nice and followed by the brake cleaner will finish the job.
Another application for brake clean, thanks!
What motor did you buy for the z with lifetime warranty??
I don’t remember the brand, but whatever it was I found it on rock auto. That was about 12 years ago though
Metal polish on commutator.
Spray window tracks with silicone oil.
Did I hear "Is that what she said"???hahahaha.. classic. And yes she indeed said such, I was there.... ..... .... twice't even
Michael Scott would be proud
🤣🤣 best part of the video!
Self taught fixing cars or schooling
I need
It’s called a window regulator, fyi
Is that what she said
IS that what she said? (6:59)
WD-40 on the brushes? Cringe... I see why they turn black and need cleaning once a year. The brushes ride on the ''commutator''. Again cringing on cleaning it with WD-40. These must be dry, clean them with contact cleaner or brake clean after a light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper. I landed on this page researching way of fixing my 1987 windows going extremely slow (yeah I know, they are 34 years old and never been worked on). I just had to comment on what I know is being done wrong here. My search continues...
Hey mate, howd you go fixing those old motors? I got a peugeot 505 gti 1984 with lazy window motors.
What car is it
Same here, a 1989 nissan, really slow windows need additional muscle power to pull them up 😂 & it isn't just the rails or the window tracks, cleaned them & used silicone lubricant, made it a bit better as it comes down fine, but still struggles to go up. Guess I'll have to take a look at the motors 😥
@@yasirsaheed take the motor apart and check the springs and brushes, i had a motor with a rusted terminal and after buying a couple more motors for parts i was able to build a good motor for like $20 all up. Clean the contacts and reassemble. Can be tricky to hold the brushes in place as you reassemble but using a tiny flat head i was able to push them into place. On the top part of the motor you can look at re greasing the internal cogs. I noticed my motors were using a clay based grease so i did the same. Then i ran the motors out of the doors until i noticed them run evenly and with more strength than before. Running it with no load will help spread the grease and wear the brushes evenly along the contact point. Then i put the motors back in and had a great improvement on all 4 doors.
@@JoelDunstan Thanks a lot for the info 🙌🏽
oooooooooooooo
Changing the meaning of awesome relating to expertise. None here. Grease is a dirt collector.
Engine oil gets dirty too. DON’T USE IT PEOPLE!!
We're your lacation
What you call an "electro-magnet" is, actually, an "armature." The "magnets" are the "field" which are known as "permanent magnets." The surface the brushes ride on is called "commutator." What you have done in cleaning the commutator is worthless, in this case. The brushes have worn down to where they no longer make good contact on the commutator, thus, they needed to be replaced. Your video is absent of any useful information on these important points.
Yet it “works”
@@ZeroToAwesome appreciably better, is the important part. Even showed not messing with it vs messing with it so thanks
Yeah I guess you could just replace, if everyone had the money for that, or you could try this to get it working until you have the money..
Couldn't say it better myself. Was looking at comments to see if someone was going to explain what he is holding.
From the looks of your house you could afford 40 or 50 bucks for a new regulator/motor assembly.! Skip your latte for a week.
SHE SAID : YOU SUCK