Best video I've seen so far explaining how to bypass everything with only a 9 volt battery. You made it simple. Thank you very much for your expertise. As I've seen a lot of other videos and I knew there had to be a better way. Seek and ye shall find
Thank You for showing an old mechanic a new trick, my 2003 Olds van has an issue with the drivers window. My biggest thought was how it grounded, after watching your very easy to follow steps I can now continue with testing the motor Big Thanks
Just took off the door panel of one sliding door of my van. All I get is the click. Disappointed it might be the regulator, as I just had to put a new one in the driver’s door. BUT, now I know how to check the motor easily and can move forward. Thank you. Great video.
Great video! If you can't run these tests, it's probably the motor. So buy a motor, or, just get the motor /regulator together. It usually doesn't cost that much more than just the motor.
Used your video to test the front driver window motor in my mom’s Kia Sportage that wouldn’t go up. I connected the motor to one of my 20V tool batteries and diagnosed the problem was with the motor!! Ordered a new motor and we’re working!!
My 2 cents : If you have a window that go's up about 1/2 way And stops Or sometimes all the way even with all this testing You may have a broken magnet inside the motor There is 2 One for up And one for down Power go's to the magnet And spins the shaft ...If it is broken It will still seat in its slot However under a heavy load It splits out of its slot And the power is cut in half Or the wire going to it dislodges. When you drive say over a bump in the road the cycle starts all over This is why windows get stuck going up And not down,
@@TWISTONE88 when you get at the motor remove the screws Most you can just pull the shaft (Carefully but firm) making sure you dont fling it out You want to loosen it Then pull it out You will see the 2 mags connected to 1 wire each They are super small a lad bigger than a broken pencil tip
Excellent video and very helpful! I'm getting that same click, but nothing happens on my driver's side window, when I press the down button on my 300! My regulator cable must be tangled! 👍
How do i reattach that metal freefloating piece? The cover wont reattach completely without it. Do i have to use it, and how do you keep from losing it while trying to reattach. Thanks.
Tip: if at some point you upgrade a battery which is still decent, trickle charge it, and pull it out when you need 12V power for bench testing. Years ago I replaces a small Honda Fit battery with a Miata battery for winter. The old Honda battery has been very helpful (and its tiny.)
I used your 9 volt battery to bench test my motor (2002 Olds Intrigue) and both directions functioned. Got the new regulator and motor back in (old cable was tangled on the spool), and now only up works, no down!! I have power to both at the motor wiring connector! I am so baffled#! Is there any kind of limit switch or ?? *inside* the motor? This video was super helpful to me, and made alot of sense.
Bro I use speaker wires and jumper cables really glad I found this video now because it started raining about 30 minutes ago hell is going to be raining all week I'm just glad I'm just glad I found it while it's still sprinkling my window only went down and would not come back up
Nice explain, only to alert, some models Secnic II have a encoder component and in case of replace the battery or low you need configuration the elevator like new from factory, you can se manual of use how can do it.
Nice video showing the functionallity. It doesn't give answer in the case motor runs fluently, regulator goes up and down but motor won't stop when it reaches extreme positions. That means: I should sense when l have to release the switch,because if not, the motor still runs and there is no thing to stop it. And the mechanism of winding the wire scratcheds badly it!! So I mean I successfully replaced wires, but the mechanism kills it for the motor doesn't know when to stop. Does somebody know what shoud do this duty? Any idea will be appreciated.
Great Video but I have an issue with calibrating the window up function. Every time I close the window fully it re-opens about half way. It is like it is going into anti-pinch safety mode each time I fully close the window. Any suggestions??
Make sure the window switch doesn't have junk in it. If the trouble is on any of the passenger windows, pull the switch off/disconnect and try with the driver controls. If the problem clears then fix/replace switch. If problem still there, Then unplug driver side. Don't know what vehicle you are working on but unplugging the driver side might disable the system tho. It may be the motor shorting out to the auto up wire. Get the diagram for the wiring and test. I bought a cheap $50 test prob that takes the headache outta doing this work. Love that thing. Last it could be the control module failing.
Great explanation. My switch will not work for electric windows or mirrors on the switch, i have tried another good working switch but still nothing works.. could this still be a faulty motor? or does it suggest wiring could be the problem?
@@backyardchevy328 Checked all fuses and they are good. Guess i need to check wiring behind door panel. Looked at wiring going from door into loom and looks fine
@@tompwh do u have a multimeter or test light? Youll wanna make sure its got a 12volt signal going into the bundle and also check to verify the ground signal
Hi, got a car whose driver side window won’t go down or up with the master switch but the rest if the windows are ok with the master switch buttons. All i can hear is a single click when i push down once or pull up. Coild that ne a window motor issue?
My window motor and agitator work. The switches work, and there is ground and positive passing through on all wires. Why will the window still won't go up or down?
I know i’m really late, but i’m hoping u see this to answer it. My window started rolling down super slow. I cleaned the window & it was a little faster but now it just stops when i roll it up or down. I wait abt 5 mins and it will move up or down again. Is the window motor getting ready to go bad? It’s the drivers side 2003 Toyota Highlander
Normally that would be a problem with the regulator having a lot of play or something busted..but if everything moves smoothly and it just comes from the motor then yea just replace motor
Thank you! I'm going to try to bench test *just* the motor. I tried with the regulator attached, and got zip, not even a spark, which I thought was odd (tested it using car battery). I hear the motors are rarely bad, but if indeed it's bad, I guess it won't hurt if I start disassembling it (take out regulator cable gear). Everybody cross their fingers that I can figure this out!
So I bought a new regulator and motor assembly and did the test with the alligator clips and a 9volt battery and it didnt move it at all either up or down. I dont have access to a 12 volt car battery. Is it possible i just have a faulty assembly
Hi my rear quater window won't open all I can hear is a click on that side everytime I try to open it what can it be? Btw the same switch controls the front which works
I have done this testing, the motor is fine and I have gotten power to the connection using the switch to the motor but still won't work on it's own circuit. What's going on?
My 2020 Chevy does a noise when it rains it sounds like grinding noise is it the motor or regulator? The dealer ship put some sealent but it’s still doing the grinding noise plz help :(
My man, I haven’t been able to find any info on the problem I’m having. I have a 2004 accord and the rear right window was stuck about halfway. When I’d try move it any further, there was a crunching sound. I replaced the motor and encountered the same problem before I noticed that both motors were eating the cable covers. Have you ever seen this before? Do you know what my issue might be?
Yea normally thats an issue with the motor going bad..so u can just replace the motor..but just give the regulator an inspection and check the cable for any fraying..if it looks good add a lil grease to the pulleys and u should be good with just the motor
Hey, how are you doing? I have a 2006 Ridgeline and the window regulator clip The one coming direct from to the car has no power tested the clips and nothing. I bought a new window regulator, but still won’t be able to connect to new regulator Motor due to no power Any suggestions please
Can you make a video showing how to put the cable back on? I have tried several times and even with the spool into the motor and the springs compressed, there is not enough slack to fit it around the top white guides and keep the black guides in place. @@backyardchevy328
I have a question, my passenger window has stopped working all the time for example if I lower my window and let go of the button half way and then try to continue lowering or raising it, it will not go up or down. The switch still clicks, sometimes It won't even go down at all. I have to close the door hard and for some reason it starts to work again temporarily, thank you!!
@MauricioMoretti. Old truck paperwork from prev owner - dealership says regulator needs replaced. Got a new switch. Same issue. Now must be motor or regulator as culprit
I hear a clicking noise from inside my passenger door and the window isn’t working so I’m pretty sure it’s either the motor or regulator. However the switch is also stuck from my driver side. What should I do first?
I thought my regulator was bad so I bought a new motor and regulator combined unit my passenger side window is stuck down I installed the new motor and regulator and the window came down and locked again I bench tested the motor and the motor only turns One Direction whether or not I push the window switch down or up do you have any idea why this is the case please help
i've tried this on my astra with a 9v battery and no luck, will try tomorrow with a 12v battery. I used multimeter to on the wire coming from the switch and no power is coming from pin 4 . When I test on a working door, pin 4 lights up
If the window regulator is bad, would you recommend trying to fix that and keeping the motor or would you suggest just replacing the full assembly to make it easier instead of dealing with installing the regulator with the motor?
Depends on the age of the vehicle..but normally if its older ill go with replacing the whole assembly with the motor to avoid having to do it again, they also tend to come with warranty when bought as a unit
Well that means ur solenoids are working fine..but theres an issue with the power going to the door lock/window switches..could be fuses/relays but since theyre both separate fuses for each system..it would of had to have blown out both..could be the switch assembly..or wiring
Hi, I’m currently trying to figure out if my regulator or motor is bad. I followed the video and hooked up the motor to a 9V battery and nothing happened when I connected the positive to positive and negative to negative but when I switched them on the battery ( positive to negative and negative to positive) it started to click. Do you have any idea if that is indicating if it’s the motor that is bad? No movement, just clicked.
@@nate2443601 usually a click means that the regulator might be seized where it wont allow the motor to move it, possibly cable all tangled up if cable driven..if u can separate em and try the motor off the regulator it probably will work that way
@backyard chevy hey I just subscribed I like ur style. 👍🏼 My 04 Chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 passenger window doesn’t work. Only hear a little click sound when button pushed. Could I just replace the motor or the whole kit which is around $100 but I think just the motor is only about $50
Thank you🙂 really appreciate it...yea u can just replace the motor but if it makes a click it can mean that the regulator cable might be tangled and u might have to replace the regulator..but i would check it out once its out
Thank you for this. I am looking to replace my passenger window motor in my '02 Firehawk. Do you have a video showing this, or do you recommend someone else's that is as clear and easy to understand as the videos you make?
@@backyardchevy328 My toyota aygo 2009 nearside window is not working and i was watching some video to learn some thing and I really appreciate your demonstration and teaching method. Thank you so much for such great job.
Yea those are pretty confusing..they have one wire which is ground(black)..another which is short drop which lowers window before closing it which is light green and black..the battery which is violet and yellow...white black which is up..violet light green which is auto feature..yellow which is down..red with light blue which is acc signal..and lastly goc..but it still should work on same basis
My window makes noise like it is trying to go down, but one doesn’t move and the other moves like an inch down. I don’t know what I should replace or go about it because I feel like the motor sounds strong . But I can’t see both regulators messing up at the same time when the were working good .
Normally when they sound jammed up and move a little like that its cause the window regulator cable got tangled up on the roll..yea it would be odd for both of em to go bad together but i have seen cases where someone tried to break in and pull the window down and it messed up the window motor gear..best way to tell thought is testing em
Best video I've seen so far explaining how to bypass everything with only a 9 volt battery.
You made it simple. Thank you very much for your expertise. As I've seen a lot of other videos and I knew there had to be a better way.
Seek and ye shall find
Thank You for showing an old mechanic a new trick, my 2003 Olds van has an issue with the drivers window. My biggest thought was how it grounded, after watching your very easy to follow steps I can now continue with testing the motor Big Thanks
Thanks. I just needed to know how to force my window up using a battery directly. You showed me exactly where to put the terminals
I learned a bunch here ! thank you ! Have to diagnose a friends window. Could not have saved time without this - thank you !!!!!
Just took off the door panel of one sliding door of my van. All I get is the click. Disappointed it might be the regulator, as I just had to put a new one in the driver’s door. BUT, now I know how to check the motor easily and can move forward. Thank you. Great video.
I have just liked and subscribed. Thank you! I wish all of my instructors were as clear as you are!
Great video! If you can't run these tests, it's probably the motor. So buy a motor, or, just get the motor /regulator together. It usually doesn't cost that much more than just the motor.
Good vid. Presentation well done. Had no idea it could be tested on the vehicle as such. Thank you.
Great video! Sooo many other videos or articles just say "test the wires." But they don't show HOW to test the wires. Nice job, and thanks!
Well, you tested two good, working motors. What did you do about the tangled or broken cables?
I think he just removed the wires and regulator and let the motor power the window.
Used your video to test the front driver window motor in my mom’s Kia Sportage that wouldn’t go up. I connected the motor to one of my 20V tool batteries and diagnosed the problem was with the motor!! Ordered a new motor and we’re working!!
Love your content!! Doing repairs myself saving a fortune!!
My 2 cents : If you have a window that go's up about 1/2 way And stops Or sometimes all the way even with all this testing You may have a broken magnet inside the motor There is 2 One for up And one for down Power go's to the magnet And spins the shaft ...If it is broken It will still seat in its slot However under a heavy load It splits out of its slot And the power is cut in half Or the wire going to it dislodges. When you drive say over a bump in the road the cycle starts all over This is why windows get stuck going up And not down,
How would you get to the magnet?
@@TWISTONE88 when you get at the motor remove the screws Most you can just pull the shaft (Carefully but firm) making sure you dont fling it out You want to loosen it Then pull it out You will see the 2 mags connected to 1 wire each They are super small a lad bigger than a broken pencil tip
@@TWISTONE88 Also if your at that point trash it scrap yard will have a used one..Or get a aftermarket new one Depending on your cost And newish car
@@freakyflow thank for the reply.
Can be in by an in? Mine is taking 5 times for totally open/close
Excellent video and very helpful! I'm getting that same click, but nothing happens on my driver's side window, when I press the down button on my 300! My regulator cable must be tangled! 👍
How do i reattach that metal freefloating piece? The cover wont reattach completely without it. Do i have to use it, and how do you keep from losing it while trying to reattach. Thanks.
Tip: if at some point you upgrade a battery which is still decent, trickle charge it, and pull it out when you need 12V power for bench testing.
Years ago I replaces a small Honda Fit battery with a Miata battery for winter. The old Honda battery has been very helpful (and its tiny.)
Thank you. Your explanation was very easy to undestand.
thamk you, your info helped me resolve my questions, knowing the motor would spin reverse by changing the polarity
I'll be damned. Now I stop researching power probes; I just need a 9v battery and long jumper cables. Back to basics. Thanks a lot man!
power tool battery's serve same purpose
Μπορείτε να μας πείτε πως βγαίνει το κάλυμμα του μοχλούς ταχυτήτων στο MAZDA 3 του 2010;
Do they have to be 12V or can they be 18 and 20V?
How in the heck do wind the wire around the pulley and get it back into the plastic piece so it will fit back into the motor?
Did you get it lmao
Thank you for the useful information. I actually learned a few things from your video. Thanks again.
I used your 9 volt battery to bench test my motor (2002 Olds Intrigue) and both directions functioned. Got the new regulator and motor back in (old cable was tangled on the spool), and now only up works, no down!! I have power to both at the motor wiring connector! I am so baffled#! Is there any kind of limit switch or ?? *inside* the motor? This video was super helpful to me, and made alot of sense.
Excellent - now I know where to start and how. Thank you for sharing.
Bro I use speaker wires and jumper cables really glad I found this video now because it started raining about 30 minutes ago hell is going to be raining all week I'm just glad I'm just glad I found it while it's still sprinkling my window only went down and would not come back up
i have similar problems this will help me know what to look for ,many thanks
Hi. I have a beetle window motor but it has 14 pins on its port. What pin should I connect to ?
Great tutorial . How can I wind up the cable spool?
TOP NOTCH CONTENT GREAT JOB EXPLAINING 💯👍💪
Nice explain, only to alert, some models Secnic II have a encoder component and in case of replace the battery or low you need configuration the elevator like new from factory, you can se manual of use how can do it.
thank you for sharing. is changing the window motor difficult? on 2005 honda crv
Nice video showing the functionallity. It doesn't give answer in the case motor runs fluently, regulator goes up and down but motor won't stop when it reaches extreme positions. That means: I should sense when l have to release the switch,because if not, the motor still runs and there is no thing to stop it. And the mechanism of winding the wire scratcheds badly it!! So I mean I successfully replaced wires, but the mechanism kills it for the motor doesn't know when to stop. Does somebody know what shoud do this duty? Any idea will be appreciated.
I have the same problem, motor does not stop at the bottom or top. How did you solve this?
Great Video but I have an issue with calibrating the window up function. Every time I close the window fully it re-opens about half way. It is like it is going into anti-pinch safety mode each time I fully close the window. Any suggestions??
Make sure the window switch doesn't have junk in it. If the trouble is on any of the passenger windows, pull the switch off/disconnect and try with the driver controls. If the problem clears then fix/replace switch.
If problem still there, Then unplug driver side. Don't know what vehicle you are working on but unplugging the driver side might disable the system tho.
It may be the motor shorting out to the auto up wire. Get the diagram for the wiring and test. I bought a cheap $50 test prob that takes the headache outta doing this work. Love that thing.
Last it could be the control module failing.
Great explanation. My switch will not work for electric windows or mirrors on the switch, i have tried another good working switch but still nothing works.. could this still be a faulty motor? or does it suggest wiring could be the problem?
Thank you..if neither are working i would check the fuse first..it could be that its blown out..if thats ok then it may be a wiring issue
@@backyardchevy328 Checked all fuses and they are good. Guess i need to check wiring behind door panel. Looked at wiring going from door into loom and looks fine
@@tompwh do u have a multimeter or test light? Youll wanna make sure its got a 12volt signal going into the bundle and also check to verify the ground signal
Thank you for the excellent vid. I have to replace one of these tomorrow!
Very helpful and informative👍 thank you
Thanks for a good walkthrough video.
Gracias por compartir tus experiencias thanks thanks to show your experience with us
Hi, got a car whose driver side window won’t go down or up with the master switch but the rest if the windows are ok with the master switch buttons. All i can hear is a single click when i push down once or pull up. Coild that ne a window motor issue?
Very helpful thank you sir
Thanks mate very well explained 👍 awesome video 📹
Outstanding! thank you very much. Well explained and viewed.
The power window on the left side driver door goes up and down alittle at a time and what would be my problem 2002 toyota tacoma prerunner
Great video tho I think this job is beyond my skill level. Why and how does the cable get unspooled and tangled like that?
Are front and rear motor regulators interchangeable? I ordered the wrong one...
you have a vlog on how to losen up an old regulator thats tight? silicone spray doesnt work
My window motor and agitator work. The switches work, and there is ground and positive passing through on all wires. Why will the window still won't go up or down?
I know i’m really late, but i’m hoping u see this to answer it. My window started rolling down super slow. I cleaned the window & it was a little faster but now it just stops when i roll it up or down. I wait abt 5 mins and it will move up or down again. Is the window motor getting ready to go bad? It’s the drivers side 2003 Toyota Highlander
good job thank u for making time
If the motor clicks or clunks as the cog spins around is that also a sign that I should go ahead and replace the motor?
Normally that would be a problem with the regulator having a lot of play or something busted..but if everything moves smoothly and it just comes from the motor then yea just replace motor
Thank you! I'm going to try to bench test *just* the motor. I tried with the regulator attached, and got zip, not even a spark, which I thought was odd (tested it using car battery). I hear the motors are rarely bad, but if indeed it's bad, I guess it won't hurt if I start disassembling it (take out regulator cable gear). Everybody cross their fingers that I can figure this out!
So I bought a new regulator and motor assembly and did the test with the alligator clips and a 9volt battery and it didnt move it at all either up or down. I dont have access to a 12 volt car battery. Is it possible i just have a faulty assembly
Hi my rear quater window won't open all I can hear is a click on that side everytime I try to open it what can it be? Btw the same switch controls the front which works
Great video!
Nice job, and thanks!
I have done this testing, the motor is fine and I have gotten power to the connection using the switch to the motor but still won't work on it's own circuit.
What's going on?
You are the champ for this video! If the battery test passed, is that usually an indication that you have bad switches?
Yea switch or wiring..making sure the fuse is ok as well
My 2020 Chevy does a noise when it rains it sounds like grinding noise is it the motor or regulator? The dealer ship put some sealent but it’s still doing the grinding noise plz help :(
Do you get sparks when you do the test?
Great explanation!
My man, I haven’t been able to find any info on the problem I’m having. I have a 2004 accord and the rear right window was stuck about halfway. When I’d try move it any further, there was a crunching sound. I replaced the motor and encountered the same problem before I noticed that both motors were eating the cable covers. Have you ever seen this before? Do you know what my issue might be?
Hell yeah, good fregin video!
Great informative video. You did a very good job and I appreciate it. Subbed
Would replacing just the motor fix slow windows? Or is a new regulator and motor required?
Yea normally thats an issue with the motor going bad..so u can just replace the motor..but just give the regulator an inspection and check the cable for any fraying..if it looks good add a lil grease to the pulleys and u should be good with just the motor
What happens if you leave it connected? Will it burn?
Thank you for such a very informative video. You taught me something. Thanks.
Thank you🙂
Hey, how are you doing? I have a 2006 Ridgeline and the window regulator clip
The one coming direct from to the car has no power tested the clips and nothing.
I bought a new window regulator, but still won’t be able to connect to new regulator Motor due to no power Any suggestions please
Can you use a 12 volt DC power supply
Your a Pro bro
Why might my window only work when engine is running but not in auxiliary mode? Only one window does this.
What if one window goes slower than the other one? I'm thinking in replacing the motor.
what was the name of those pins you used when alligator clips wouldn't fit?
Cotter pin.
4:34 --- What might cause the cable to twist?
super helpful thankyou!
Is there a process to spooling the wire back into the motor?
Yes, one end of the cable twists onto one side..the other twists back in the opposite side
Can you make a video showing how to put the cable back on? I have tried several times and even with the spool into the motor and the springs compressed, there is not enough slack to fit it around the top white guides and keep the black guides in place. @@backyardchevy328
Nice video thanks man 👍
thank you it was very helpful
Great video and thank you
You sound like raymounds brother from everyone loves raymond LMAO
My Toyota Runx Front electric window is not working there's a sound inside when you are pressing it down
So on the multiple wire one you connect the positive and negative to the two bigger wires
They normally would be the bigger wires for the main ones
I have a question, my passenger window has stopped working all the time for example if I lower my window and let go of the button half way and then try to continue lowering or raising it, it will not go up or down. The switch still clicks, sometimes It won't even go down at all. I have to close the door hard and for some reason it starts to work again temporarily, thank you!!
Same here. Did you find a solution?
@MauricioMoretti. Old truck paperwork from prev owner - dealership says regulator needs replaced. Got a new switch. Same issue. Now must be motor or regulator as culprit
@@forrestweldon9168 Thanks. I'll look into that
Will a Bobby pin work
can u re wrap the cable around the window regulator?
Yea, in most cases u can
Thank you for the great info
@@decaulelliott9867 thank you🙂
I hear a clicking noise from inside my passenger door and the window isn’t working so I’m pretty sure it’s either the motor or regulator. However the switch is also stuck from my driver side. What should I do first?
Hi did you manage to find out? My switch isn't stuck but I have the same other issues
@@Amg641 yeah for me it wasn’t even the window motor or regulator at all. It was the switch from my driver side that I took apart and cleaned
@@LM-lj2cf my switch opens the front but it's not opening the rear quater 😑 all I can hear is a click on the rear..
Glad you fixed yours matey
@@Amg641 take out the rear plastic and clean it as well! It’s worth a try
I thought my regulator was bad so I bought a new motor and regulator combined unit my passenger side window is stuck down I installed the new motor and regulator and the window came down and locked again I bench tested the motor and the motor only turns One Direction whether or not I push the window switch down or up do you have any idea why this is the case please help
1:54 What would happen if they were to touch?
how come you use the car battery for testing the motor and regulator. but only used a small 9v battery for the motor?
Well i was showing u can use either..but i did show the 9v battery to move the motor and regulator while its still installed on the truck
i've tried this on my astra with a 9v battery and no luck, will try tomorrow with a 12v battery. I used multimeter to on the wire coming from the switch and no power is coming from pin 4 . When I test on a working door, pin 4 lights up
Hopefully works with the 12v, since it seems its a issue with no power getting to motor
If the window regulator is bad, would you recommend trying to fix that and keeping the motor or would you suggest just replacing the full assembly to make it easier instead of dealing with installing the regulator with the motor?
Depends on the age of the vehicle..but normally if its older ill go with replacing the whole assembly with the motor to avoid having to do it again, they also tend to come with warranty when bought as a unit
@@backyardchevy328 Thank you!
my power door and window switches don't work but my key FOB can lock and unlock doors. Is that an issue with a relay?
Well that means ur solenoids are working fine..but theres an issue with the power going to the door lock/window switches..could be fuses/relays but since theyre both separate fuses for each system..it would of had to have blown out both..could be the switch assembly..or wiring
Is it just the master control switch that doesn't work or have you tried all other switches in vehicle?
Hi, I’m currently trying to figure out if my regulator or motor is bad. I followed the video and hooked up the motor to a 9V battery and nothing happened when I connected the positive to positive and negative to negative but when I switched them on the battery ( positive to negative and negative to positive) it started to click. Do you have any idea if that is indicating if it’s the motor that is bad? No movement, just clicked.
I also used a test light on the connector for the switch and it is confirmed that it is getting power
@@nate2443601 usually a click means that the regulator might be seized where it wont allow the motor to move it, possibly cable all tangled up if cable driven..if u can separate em and try the motor off the regulator it probably will work that way
@@backyardchevy328 okay, I will try that. Thank you!
@@nate2443601 good luck
How do I find my driver side fuse for my 2010 Cadillac srx for my power window
Itll be in the left side of the trunk behind a small cover
Thank u it was perfect
@backyard chevy hey I just subscribed I like ur style. 👍🏼
My 04 Chevy Avalanche 1500 Z71 passenger window doesn’t work. Only hear a little click sound when button pushed. Could I just replace the motor or the whole kit which is around $100 but I think just the motor is only about $50
Thank you🙂 really appreciate it...yea u can just replace the motor but if it makes a click it can mean that the regulator cable might be tangled and u might have to replace the regulator..but i would check it out once its out
Thank you.
Thank you for this. I am looking to replace my passenger window motor in my '02 Firehawk. Do you have a video showing this, or do you recommend someone else's that is as clear and easy to understand as the videos you make?
I have one but unfortunately its an older video of mine and it has music
ruclips.net/video/_KpVOJ18Va0/видео.html
Funny thing...I found it five minutes ago. Watching it now. 😄
@@SmoothAlf lol yea i regret ever making em that way..i hope it helps though
Maaaaaybe, you'll make an updated video! 😁
Dose this work on my trailblazer? I have a 02
Yes the wiring should be similar since the truck and the regulator are from similar years as well
Everybody loves raymond
Great video keep it up the great work
Thank you🙂
@@backyardchevy328
My toyota aygo 2009 nearside window is not working and i was watching some video to learn some thing and I really appreciate your demonstration and teaching method. Thank you so much for such great job.
@@rehmancricket thank you...hopefully it was helpful in figuring out whats wrong with it
How do I do this procedure on a 06 mustang which the motor has an 8 pin connector
Yea those are pretty confusing..they have one wire which is ground(black)..another which is short drop which lowers window before closing it which is light green and black..the battery which is violet and yellow...white black which is up..violet light green which is auto feature..yellow which is down..red with light blue which is acc signal..and lastly goc..but it still should work on same basis
@@backyardchevy328 thank you
My window makes noise like it is trying to go down, but one doesn’t move and the other moves like an inch down. I don’t know what I should replace or go about it because I feel like the motor sounds strong . But I can’t see both regulators messing up at the same time when the were working good .
Normally when they sound jammed up and move a little like that its cause the window regulator cable got tangled up on the roll..yea it would be odd for both of em to go bad together but i have seen cases where someone tried to break in and pull the window down and it messed up the window motor gear..best way to tell thought is testing em
@@backyardchevy328 thansk for the reply! I’ll have to test them :p
@@Mr_P_Rockzz let me know how it goes🙂👍 good luck