*Yes, I know the video doesn't have the KS3 version, but this one does: **ruclips.net/video/RCGpMX4oojU/видео.html* RGB Tolerances: ruclips.net/video/mbe2HxR5y9w/видео.html Also, the lube I used in the video isn't your standard Krytox, they're lubes from Gazzew (in which I really recommend you check out, they're not any more expensive than your brand lubes) "loob-3g" is a lube comparable to Tribosys3203, in which is meant to be a thin, low-PTFE lube. The lube I used for the springs is also from Gazzew, but a THICCCCCC grease that literally requires Krytox/PTFE to be thinned lmao. It's an experimental lube so there isn't a name for it yet. Here's his profile if you want to look around: www.reddit.com/user/hbheroinbob/ Also, the keycap used in the sound test is an ABS Doubleshot from JTK Red on White. Part 2: ruclips.net/video/51KYK3q7KHs/видео.html
Considering there’s only been 7 orders and nowhere in the AliExpress listing title does it have “KS3” in it I doubt it was easily findable by other people lol. I’ll include the link somewhere though for those that are willing to test it out.
This is a nice comparison video, the only other one i’ve seen is by walker’s keyboard science and I definitely agree, black bottom milky top definitely sound the best and the all milky definitely come in second
Awesome! This is exactly video that i was looking for =) Clicky gang member is here) Another attempt to enjoy linear switches so decided to go with the classic) but so many versions of the Gateron Yellows...)
For such an in-depth review, I wish you used more mainstream lube that the target audience for this video (those new and/or on a budget) would be able to buy or at least explain what the Gazzew lubes are comparable to. I also wish you stuck with using one lube instead of two, since that's already means it costs more -- my main concern being more that a novice seeing this thinks they need to have both the same exact lubes to gain what is shown in the video. (Maybe even doing an only Super Lube in the future for budget switches.) On a tangent, mentioning that Yellows are great for spring harvesting, a good beginner choice since they have an use even after they get more of the fancier switches later, would have been a nice comment too.
Yo, I appreciate the actual constructive criticism/feedback for that one. I forgot to mention it in the video and was going to put the info in the pinned comment but I forgot to do so, I'll do that right now. I'll tell you first though: "loob-3g" or as you heard in the video "lube-3G" is very comparable to 3203. Meant to be a very thin lube (words from Gazzew himself). The lube for the springs is literally a thick-ass grease. You actually use krytox to thin the damn thing. Doesn't have a name yet though but I'm sure you can ask Gazzew about it.
I personally didn’t have an issue with leaving a bunch of switches in a bag, I once left a jar full of switches for a build I had to wait a year for, and they feel fine to me at the moment.
Haha agreed with you on conclusions! For me the clear tops sound like plastics hitting each other while the milky tops like wood bricks hitting each other, which to me simply sounds more premium and relaxing. And the milky bottom is slightly quieter than the black bottom thus making the former my favorite choice. Almost ordered the clear top ones right before coming across your video! Thanks a lot for the 5-in-a-row comparison and the thoughtful time stamps. I could make a more informed decision now. :)
@@toufusoup Thanks for the warm reminder; Does "raised LEDs" mean "RGB" lighting or......? I'm new to mechanical keyboard so sorry for the common-sense question. Please let me know if you've already explained the differences of bottoms in terms of how they affect lighting. (I actually prefer a plain keyboard but it seems most hot swap keyboard comes with rgb.)
Some mechanical keyboard prebuilts have their RGB lighting sitting not-flush with the PCB. This vid should help clarify things: ruclips.net/video/XkIgn96mDB4/видео.html
@@toufusoup Watched that video immediately and was sweating again. Couldn't have imagined the little design issue of keyboard would make some other good switches incompatible. lol
divinikey also sells milky top black bottom and only that also it’s almost always on stock so but the shipping to Canada is 30$ so use it as a “last resort”
Hi I bought an rk100 hot swappable they told me it has gateron browns but turned out it has stock RK Browns (not that they r bad tho) 😅 but I want gateron browns.. I'm planning to just buy the switches but I'm confused.. What's the difference between, optical gateron, full milky gateron, clear top milky bottom, milky top black bot. I just found there are several types of gateron switches 🥲 I would appreciate the help! This is my first mech keebs and I wanna enjot it to the fullest 🥺
Optical Gaterons are a completely different type of switch relying on laser activations and such. In terms of all the other Gaterons with “milky” or whatever, albeit I didn’t cover Browns, I covered the Yellows such as this one. Perhaps those videos will help you, because the housings are consistent across Gateron.
Hey thanks so very much for creating this video, as many, I’ve been struggling to find an in-depth comparison between the different types of yellows. Also didn’t know about dangkeebs, dirt cheap shipping when compared to kbdfans! Sadly I have already ordered from kbdfans some gateron brown switches which I think I will not be using and the worst part is that I cannot return them. Might end up selling them cheap on eBay to at least recover something.
lmao nah. I caught him slippin’ tho my previous two vids were dislike-less for days but the second I release this video it seems like they remembered my existence
My most recent video was made to answer questions like this, comparing all 5 common variants. Milky top doesn’t affect RGB but the bottom housing does.
I want the all milk ones, but in this sound test I think the black bottom clear top sounded alot better with the thocky combined with an accent (pre lube)
i'm in Europe and i only use the full milky switches for almost all my boards.. and sum have rgb and it works out great.. i do have switch film but i never applied it on these perhaps if i open my switches for a second time i would add film but for now they are good as is.
you weren't too far off materials wise, clear tops are indeed PC, the black and white plastics are both nylon, and milky is a blend of both nylon and pc
Im thinking about getting the Milky top black bottom "Milky Blacks" as an alternative to the ink blacks, because they're txpensive af. Does the black bottom allow any pcb backlighting thorugh?
I think any switch has that sort of phase, some better than others, but the yellows that you’re talking about should be pretty good off the bat, maybe you’ll feel a difference in about a week’s worth of usage
i am thinking of going for gateron milky yellows cause I can't find any milk top black bottom in my country :( only clear top black bot and full milk is available :(
@@mariospanayiotou6644 ah i already took milky yellows from aliexpress last month lubed and filmed them with kelowna switch film, enjoying them very much not too clacky either goes perfectly with my typing style and preference
@@nomanhossain6597 glad to hear! Im waiting for my smd yellows:) i saw they added the milky top black bottom soon after i ordered. However i dont regret my decision because milky messes up the rgb
I think filming should be standard procedure, however, with these, it doesn’t matter too much. I remember the Gat. Yellows I used on my old XD84 weren’t filmed and I loved them.
I've actually gotten this question before, and I have to say I wonder if I'm tripping or something, because I just tested with Gat Clear (milk top black bottom) and it has this sort of... semi-interference. Where if I insert a piece of thin paper under the cap, it gets caught, but it doesn't hold on so tightly that it rips. It just slides out after a small tug. So I guess to answer your question, yes, but if you absolutely must have cherry caps on your board, the interference will be there but not as prominent.
@@toufusoup wait sorry i read it in a wrong way, i wanted to ask is every yellow switch an optical switch, but now that i think of it i got an answer lol thanks :D
Bruh after 13 hours of desoldering, filming lubing and resoldering I finally finished and it turned out better than I expected it feels so gosh darn good.
I’d say the milky top black bottoms don’t have rattle. The ones with clear tops may benefit from films, but I’d say for all Gateron yellows lube is more important than the film
Lucky for you I just released a new vid on these. However, on this particular lineup, pretty much any of them with the milk *top* are thumpier than the rest.
Hi there! I just ordered my Gateron Yellows but it has the milky top and black bottom (NovelKeys), I was wondering if it would be a hindrance towards RGB coloring of my whole keyboard? Since it's not a "clear top", and I also have the Logitech Pro X keyboard which is hotswappable. Any thoughts? Would love to hear from you, subbed also btw, this information helped out a lot.
You might experience some dilution and or reduction of your lighting by quite a bit, although I don’t think it will completely block it out. However, I don’t think, say, using pudding keycaps will be optimal for that sort of thing
@@toufusoup I was looking into the pudding keycaps as well but since Logitech has the unique sizes towards the space, shift and enter key. Thanks a bunch! Can't cancel anymore and it will arrive soon. Will just have to look at it if it's bearable, if not then I might just have to stick with logitech keys and lube them myself. Thanks!
Searching "gateron yellow ks3 aliexpress" or "gateron yellow aliexpress" and combing through the results gave me nothing and I wasn't going to be sifting through 60 pages on a saturday morning lol. The video was just showcasing gateron yellows you'd be able to find pretty much anywhere from NovelKeys_ to KBDFans and whatever.
I'd thumb up this vid if it wasn't for the fact that not even 5 seconds into the program you had sworn at us twice. What's up with that? I coulkd care less where your focus on life is. I'm outa here.
Ok, this video was really dumb. WHY not put the switches side to side and tap them in order and quickly so we can hear the difference as it's fresh on the memory? Why even tap the switch without the keycap since there's no way to know how the switch is going to sound on different keycaps and boards? HOW does the color or transparency of the material on the switch housing affects its sound? If it's a different material on each housings then it can make sense to sound differently, but not just because of the color or transparency.
You do realize there's a segment of the video that literally is me "putting the switches side to side and tapping them in order and quickly" both at 6:50 and 10:22 right? Also, if you put the switches side by side and not in the same spot, that potentially alters the sound of the switch. Some people do tests/videos with pressing the switch without the keycap. I decided to include it. If you don't like it, there's a reason why I included a *massive* list of labeled time stamps for viewers to skip to their point of interest. It seems to me you just watched 2 minutes of the video by skipping around and then made a hasty comment without actually properly looking at what the video had to offer. If anything, this comment was "really dumb," as it disrespects both the content and its creator while wasting your own time. Also, people come to these videos for more the sound comparisons rather than the trivia. It's a given that different housing materials may cause switches to sound different from their siblings, but I'm not going to give a massive history lesson for a video that's mainly created for differences in sound. The video is already as long as is. There are other videos for that.
@@toufusoup You just presumed wrong as I was expecting you to do... Side by side means exactly that, side by side, not the same spot with editing cuts. So I meant that you should put all of the switches in a row and tap them side by side. And no, they won't sound different if you do it right. You just have to put the acrylic case on a very thick cotton pillow (or something like that) and on a desk that doesn't shake nor vibrates. A ceramic floor would be perfect. If the case hits a solid desk it will sound different in different spots and almost no one has the same desk, so the switches with keycaps, board and case might sound very different for many users. Try to see if your sound test results match the others here on RUclips... They won't. None of them match each other because people test on their boards, on their desks and with exotic keycaps that most people either find them hideous or can't use them because of compatibility issues. OEM ABS and OEM PBT (from likes of Corsair, HyperX and such) keycaps should be used on these tests, as they are more common than thick premium PBT customized SA ones, for example. Sorry for calling you the D word. I'm a little angry, but I don't want your channel to fail, I want it to get better.
I understand your sentiment and I thank you for your feedback. However, I'm still a firm believer in using the same spot on either a keyboard or an acrylic switch tester, as I've done enough tests to tell that there are still noticeable differences when you swap them up, whether it be on a surface that vibrates or not. The reason being: this video is the third draft. In the first and second drafts, I used different spots on a keyboard and acrylic switch tester respectively on a deskmat, which eliminates the majority of vibrations (thank you nearLucid), as it's a massive piece of fabric with a slab of rubber on the bottom. Every time I compared one Gat. Yellow to the next by swapping up the positions on the keyboard/tester, they would sound different. Suddenly the Fully Milk Gat Yellow would sound super high-pitched when just a moment ago when it was in a different spot, it was much bassier. There's also a video VOD from TaehaTypes where he was comparing the sounds/feels of the newly released H1s and every time he swapped up the keyswitch positions, he/chat kept choosing a different switch, as even though the keyboard was a top mount, that doesn't give the same consistency of putting a switch in ONE specific spot, eliminating that variable. The way to "do it right" is to make sure to eliminate the number of variables in a test that makes things go wrong. I actually made a video about this: ruclips.net/video/WRsCUWMmIgs/видео.html In terms of keycaps, I don't use GMK or whatnot, I use JTK specifically in this video, but other videos since this video I usually just grab a keycap from my cheap AliExpress OEM PBT Keycap sets or whatnot. So you can rest easy there.
@@toufusoup If the switch sounds different in different spots it can only mean that the acrylic case is not even. Then you should just use acrylic cases that house just one switch per case and tap them side by side on a pillow or deskmat. Think about what you just said... If different spots gives you different sounds, then which spot gives the true sound of the switch? That can also mean that the acrylic is changing the sound of the switch, which is a problem if you want to show the true sound of a switch. I think you should use modeling clay (I don't know if that's the correct name on your country) as a case over a pillow or deskmat. That way there would be no difference in sound from the case.
Using a pillow or mega-thick fabric of the same nature super-bass-boosts a switch sound. There's a reason why people created these meme sound tests where they stuffed an entire pillowcase underneath their plate or type on a super fluffy tablecloth is because the word "thock" is a godforsaken joke now. Even if I were to get those singular key switch acrylic testers, I'd be hard-pressed to find a way to properly hold them down. It's not feasible. Any form of switch holding item, whether it be an acrylic switch tester or a keyboard plate/PCB, it's impossible to have this so-called "perfect" tester/plate where every spot sounds the same because that's literally not how physics works. You can have a plate that can be really really good at keeping a consistent sound for the majority of the plate but nothing will be as consistent as keeping a switch in ONE spot. Also, while different spots give you different switch sounds, the one thing that is consistent if I put a switch in a single spot is its pitch. If we disregard acrylic switch testers for now and just talk about testing switches on a keyboard if Switch "A" in the "H" key is bassier than Switch "B" in the same spot, it's going to have the same result if I put it in,, say, the "B" key. The reason being, the variables of different locations on a keyboard are gone, and I'll be using the same keycap, so that variable is gone too. Thus, the switch and only the switch is the isolated independent variable in which I can safely test the sound of. The only thing now that may affect sound is if I moved the keyboard/microphone so the distance won't be the same.
*Yes, I know the video doesn't have the KS3 version, but this one does: **ruclips.net/video/RCGpMX4oojU/видео.html*
RGB Tolerances: ruclips.net/video/mbe2HxR5y9w/видео.html
Also, the lube I used in the video isn't your standard Krytox, they're lubes from Gazzew (in which I really recommend you check out, they're not any more expensive than your brand lubes)
"loob-3g" is a lube comparable to Tribosys3203, in which is meant to be a thin, low-PTFE lube. The lube I used for the springs is also from Gazzew, but a THICCCCCC grease that literally requires Krytox/PTFE to be thinned lmao. It's an experimental lube so there isn't a name for it yet. Here's his profile if you want to look around: www.reddit.com/user/hbheroinbob/
Also, the keycap used in the sound test is an ABS Doubleshot from JTK Red on White.
Part 2: ruclips.net/video/51KYK3q7KHs/видео.html
"Not easily findable"
a.aliexpress.com/_mtxa9pf
Considering there’s only been 7 orders and nowhere in the AliExpress listing title does it have “KS3” in it I doubt it was easily findable by other people lol. I’ll include the link somewhere though for those that are willing to test it out.
I already updated description of the one store I could find in CONUS with them.
I liked that 5-in-a-row comparison, more people need to do this in their comparisons
YES! Appreciate the in-a-row comparison so much as well.
6:15 milky top white bottom
6:32 milky top milky bottom
6:45 milky top black bottom
damn the milky top black bottom really does sound better than the full milky one
i agree
That’s what I have and they are amazing
@@vlxyfn9640 I only found out about their existence after i bought the full milky ones. But luckily the full milky ones aren't bad either
@@Billy_The_Frog I haven’t tried the full milky yet
@@Billy_The_Frog i also bought the full Milky ones and i found them pretty scratchy... I am thinking about buying the black bottom Milky top ones.
This video is the only thing that’s keeping me up during class
the milky top w/ milky bottom was my favorite sounding one after being lubed, definitely getting those for my first build(probably a GK96)
I definitely agree!
Where did you get your milky bottom and milky bottoms from and what lube did you use?
It's sold out everywhere. Wtf
Check Divinikey?
@@toufusoup nice thanks
Just what I was looking for - I didn't know about dangkeebs and I'm glad I found them thanks to this video. The milky yellows sound so nice
Thanks a lot for that video ! I really was looking for what they sounded like and you nailed it
I've heard things about how milky top black bottom gat yellows are the best variant and thanks to you I got to confirm that statement :)
I think the full milky is best sounding. It does sound scratchier as mentioned.
This is a nice comparison video, the only other one i’ve seen is by walker’s keyboard science and I definitely agree, black bottom milky top definitely sound the best and the all milky definitely come in second
agree with this ^^ and with tofu
Awesome! This is exactly video that i was looking for =)
Clicky gang member is here) Another attempt to enjoy linear switches so decided to go with the classic) but so many versions of the Gateron Yellows...)
perfect vid for what i was wanting to know - plus in depth ant time stamped, awesome!
For such an in-depth review, I wish you used more mainstream lube that the target audience for this video (those new and/or on a budget) would be able to buy or at least explain what the Gazzew lubes are comparable to. I also wish you stuck with using one lube instead of two, since that's already means it costs more -- my main concern being more that a novice seeing this thinks they need to have both the same exact lubes to gain what is shown in the video. (Maybe even doing an only Super Lube in the future for budget switches.)
On a tangent, mentioning that Yellows are great for spring harvesting, a good beginner choice since they have an use even after they get more of the fancier switches later, would have been a nice comment too.
Yo, I appreciate the actual constructive criticism/feedback for that one.
I forgot to mention it in the video and was going to put the info in the pinned comment but I forgot to do so, I'll do that right now. I'll tell you first though: "loob-3g" or as you heard in the video "lube-3G" is very comparable to 3203. Meant to be a very thin lube (words from Gazzew himself). The lube for the springs is literally a thick-ass grease. You actually use krytox to thin the damn thing. Doesn't have a name yet though but I'm sure you can ask Gazzew about it.
Gave you a mention in the pinned comment, hopefully that gives people a little more info.
EXACTLY THE VID I WAS LOOKING FOR
milky top black bottom and the full milky ones are pretty nice
This video helped me so much. Thank you!
Do Gateron Pro Milky Yellow switches have interference for Northfacing LEDs on Cherry MX keycaps?
Yes, just tried with my JTK RoW v2, using two thicknesses of switch films, both were snared (unsurprisingly).
Holy Switch
If I lubed a switch and then just let it sit in a Ziploc bag and did not use it for a long time, do I have to lube it again later on?
I personally didn’t have an issue with leaving a bunch of switches in a bag, I once left a jar full of switches for a build I had to wait a year for, and they feel fine to me at the moment.
Haha agreed with you on conclusions! For me the clear tops sound like plastics hitting each other while the milky tops like wood bricks hitting each other, which to me simply sounds more premium and relaxing. And the milky bottom is slightly quieter than the black bottom thus making the former my favorite choice. Almost ordered the clear top ones right before coming across your video! Thanks a lot for the 5-in-a-row comparison and the thoughtful time stamps. I could make a more informed decision now. :)
Just keep in mind if your hot swap keyboard has raised LEDs you may need to buy the white bottom ones
@@toufusoup Thanks for the warm reminder; Does "raised LEDs" mean "RGB" lighting or......? I'm new to mechanical keyboard so sorry for the common-sense question. Please let me know if you've already explained the differences of bottoms in terms of how they affect lighting. (I actually prefer a plain keyboard but it seems most hot swap keyboard comes with rgb.)
Some mechanical keyboard prebuilts have their RGB lighting sitting not-flush with the PCB. This vid should help clarify things: ruclips.net/video/XkIgn96mDB4/видео.html
@@toufusoup Watched that video immediately and was sweating again. Couldn't have imagined the little design issue of keyboard would make some other good switches incompatible. lol
Very informative! Really appreciated!
Thanks so much I thought the milky bottoms were very scratchy
milky top white bottom is too fire omg
I guess JWICKs would be your thing
divinikey also sells milky top black bottom and only that also it’s almost always on stock so but the shipping to Canada is 30$ so use it as a “last resort”
Hi I bought an rk100 hot swappable they told me it has gateron browns but turned out it has stock RK Browns (not that they r bad tho) 😅 but I want gateron browns..
I'm planning to just buy the switches but I'm confused..
What's the difference between, optical gateron, full milky gateron, clear top milky bottom, milky top black bot. I just found there are several types of gateron switches 🥲 I would appreciate the help! This is my first mech keebs and I wanna enjot it to the fullest 🥺
Optical Gaterons are a completely different type of switch relying on laser activations and such. In terms of all the other Gaterons with “milky” or whatever, albeit I didn’t cover Browns, I covered the Yellows such as this one. Perhaps those videos will help you, because the housings are consistent across Gateron.
Hey thanks so very much for creating this video, as many, I’ve been struggling to find an in-depth comparison between the different types of yellows. Also didn’t know about dangkeebs, dirt cheap shipping when compared to kbdfans! Sadly I have already ordered from kbdfans some gateron brown switches which I think I will not be using and the worst part is that I cannot return them. Might end up selling them cheap on eBay to at least recover something.
People have been telling me to do a KS-3 comparison so I did a video on that too.
Theory: the person that dislikes every one of your videos is yourself
lmao nah. I caught him slippin’ tho my previous two vids were dislike-less for days but the second I release this video it seems like they remembered my existence
Which website would u say is better to get the milky top black bottom
I mean NovelKeys is a default. There’s also DangKeebs
I wonder if this also applies to the Blue and Green switches' housings. Those are quite nice for frankenswitching.
Keyboard in video? (The 75% with rgb on the side)
KBD75v1
How about rgb effects? Does the milky top noticeably affect the brightness of the underglow rgb light?
no. there is holes for the light to pass through. I didn't notice any difference.
My most recent video was made to answer questions like this, comparing all 5 common variants. Milky top doesn’t affect RGB but the bottom housing does.
How do I get the milky top with the white bottom? Like what do I look up or what do I have to buy?
I mention in the video that it’s a hybrid.
Can the light of led pass through enough in the switch with the clear top black bottom?
It’ll be dimmer compared to the clear top white bottoms but it’ll still shine through.
Does the light of led shine through in the milky top white bottom gateron yellows? btw nice vid :)
Pretty sure they would but it wouldn’t be as bright as a clear top.
What about the cap yellow
I didn’t put them here cuz they’re in a different price range and are “different” compared to standards
I want the all milk ones, but in this sound test I think the black bottom clear top sounded alot better with the thocky combined with an accent (pre lube)
i'm in Europe and i only use the full milky switches for almost all my boards.. and sum have rgb and it works out great.. i do have switch film but i never applied it on these perhaps if i open my switches for a second time i would add film but for now they are good as is.
Yeah those things are perfectly serviceable without films
Yeah those things are perfectly serviceable without switch films
Which ones aren’t super loud and pretty see through?
I don't think any of the gateron yellows are too loud
man of culture with that kombucha
yeah i love sweaty feet tea too
Where did you get the gateron yellow top/milky bottom/black
NovelKeys
dangkeebs.com/collections/switches/products/gateron-yellow
you weren't too far off materials wise, clear tops are indeed PC, the black and white plastics are both nylon, and milky is a blend of both nylon and pc
Thanks for the info!
@@toufusoup I found the info on switches.mx
Im thinking about getting the Milky top black bottom "Milky Blacks" as an alternative to the ink blacks, because they're txpensive af.
Does the black bottom allow any pcb backlighting thorugh?
Very minimal. It’s an opaque black housing.
Great video! I actually prefer the full milk ones since I'm one of those weird people who enjoy *some* scratch.
They're oddly satisfying, the tad bit of scratch. Dunno why lol but I do agree with you
is the clear top white bottom smd compatible?
Where did u get full milk gateron yellows ??
They’re everywhere mate
DangKeebs, KBDFans, etc
@@toufusoup thanks I was looking on banggood and they were all sold out didn’t know where else to look. Thanks for the suggestions
Which of the milkies are smoother
So which one gives the most Thoccy sound?
which one is less wobble?
no idea actually, I never really test for stem wobble since I usually film the majority of my switches. Sorry mate
Just ordered the all milky pros for .23 cents a piece
i assume the top and bottom milk housing switch are linear
wdym all gateron yellows are linear
@@toufusoup sorry i’m just getting into custom keyboards and i just based it off the sound
they are this variations on opther colors like milky browns for example, right?
I do believe so yes
Thanks for the awesome video, I think the full milky yellows are the ones for me. Which KB are you using?
Do the full milky yellows have a break in period where they become smoother?
I think any switch has that sort of phase, some better than others, but the yellows that you’re talking about should be pretty good off the bat, maybe you’ll feel a difference in about a week’s worth of usage
i am thinking of going for gateron milky yellows
cause I can't find any milk top black bottom in my country :(
only clear top black bot and full milk is available :(
If there are full-black ones like KS-3 it’ll work in substitution for milk top black bottom
Hope im not too late, you can now find them on AliExpress, they look the same as the ones from Novelkeys:)
@@mariospanayiotou6644 ah i already took milky yellows from aliexpress last month
lubed and filmed them with kelowna switch film, enjoying them very much not too clacky either
goes perfectly with my typing style and preference
@@nomanhossain6597 glad to hear! Im waiting for my smd yellows:) i saw they added the milky top black bottom soon after i ordered. However i dont regret my decision because milky messes up the rgb
@@nomanhossain6597 or so i hear. How is the rgb with your milkies?
Which one sounds better in you opinion?
Idk I like the scratchiness of the full milk housing. Is that weird?
The hobby is all about preference, if you like 'em you like 'em
wheres the led comparasion?
I made one
Does the milky top allow rgb to pass through?
Check the pinned comment.
@@toufusoup do you recommend to film the full-milk switch or just lube will do?
I think filming should be standard procedure, however, with these, it doesn’t matter too much. I remember the Gat. Yellows I used on my old XD84 weren’t filmed and I loved them.
Hey man! Great video as always. Does the Milky top black bottem have interference with cherry profile keycaps on north facing boards?
I've actually gotten this question before, and I have to say I wonder if I'm tripping or something, because I just tested with Gat Clear (milk top black bottom) and it has this sort of... semi-interference. Where if I insert a piece of thin paper under the cap, it gets caught, but it doesn't hold on so tightly that it rips. It just slides out after a small tug. So I guess to answer your question, yes, but if you absolutely must have cherry caps on your board, the interference will be there but not as prominent.
are all of these optical switches? i cant find an answer for this anywhere
Since when did you hear all Gateron Yellows were optical?
@@toufusoup they are
Why would I review optical switches lol these are standard
@@toufusoup wait sorry i read it in a wrong way, i wanted to ask is every yellow switch an optical switch, but now that i think of it i got an answer lol thanks :D
there is one version that's optical but none of the ones in the video are that one
I copped some full milk yellows from amazon to solder on my k70 wish me luck!
Bruh after 13 hours of desoldering, filming lubing and resoldering I finally finished and it turned out better than I expected it feels so gosh darn good.
I’m glad your work paid off my guy
There’s also the full nylon edition
Which I covered
@@toufusoup oh oops
Is milky top black bottom any good for RGB board ?
No, it blocks the RGB. I made a video on it recently
You Should try the RK84, thats a cheap hotswap keyboard, and if you add foam in it, it actually sounds pretty good
I already covered it in four videos
does it have any rattle? I'm trying to decide whether to buy films or not nice vid
I’d say the milky top black bottoms don’t have rattle. The ones with clear tops may benefit from films, but I’d say for all Gateron yellows lube is more important than the film
@@toufusoup thank u for the info, i read my last comment and i meant to say btw nice vid lmao
No worries lol hope your purchases go well
Whats the keyboard there? It looks amazingg
Pretty sure it’s this: ruclips.net/video/NdBNBtPo0rI/видео.html
Which one do you think sounds objectively the deepest? I was thinking either the full milky or milky top black bottom (or ks3)
Lucky for you I just released a new vid on these. However, on this particular lineup, pretty much any of them with the milk *top* are thumpier than the rest.
@@toufusoup yeah I saw the video! Great job on it and thanks for the info!!
does the milky will affect keyboard rgb?
nobody use this stock
i am :'
did you film the switches?
Hi there! I just ordered my Gateron Yellows but it has the milky top and black bottom (NovelKeys), I was wondering if it would be a hindrance towards RGB coloring of my whole keyboard? Since it's not a "clear top", and I also have the Logitech Pro X keyboard which is hotswappable. Any thoughts?
Would love to hear from you, subbed also btw, this information helped out a lot.
You might experience some dilution and or reduction of your lighting by quite a bit, although I don’t think it will completely block it out. However, I don’t think, say, using pudding keycaps will be optimal for that sort of thing
@@toufusoup I was looking into the pudding keycaps as well but since Logitech has the unique sizes towards the space, shift and enter key. Thanks a bunch! Can't cancel anymore and it will arrive soon. Will just have to look at it if it's bearable, if not then I might just have to stick with logitech keys and lube them myself. Thanks!
@@Kylepacz21 I also worry for switch compatibility but I hope, worse comes to worst you have a nail clipper on hand to snip off some plastic legs
6:44 5:59
9:35 10:14
can hardly tell the difference between full milky and milky top black bottom
you forgot the ks-3 variant (black top & bottom) which is the best of them all.
I couldn’t get my hands on them and I don’t know where they’re readily available.
@@toufusoup aliexpress
Searching "gateron yellow ks3 aliexpress" or "gateron yellow aliexpress" and combing through the results gave me nothing and I wasn't going to be sifting through 60 pages on a saturday morning lol. The video was just showcasing gateron yellows you'd be able to find pretty much anywhere from NovelKeys_ to KBDFans and whatever.
They make a hotswap version of the XD87
I'm gonna be joining in on the Saka68 when that gets revised and up for GB with a hotswap PCB. Should make sound tests so much easier.
Am I the only one that thought the all milk yellows sounded best? Quiet and kinda blunted rounded sound.
I will choose all milky lubed so nice
Cap Milky V2s: “Yo!”
Where can I get these Milky top black bottom switches?
Novelkeys. Should be linked in the description.
make a milky bottom black top
Nice vid
The worst is still better than blues(self preference)
I think the first two are the same but the rest sound better
Milkys are a bit more rubbery
Milky tops have a deeper sound
milky top white bottom sounds better to me
White bottom less thocc than black, milky has more spring ping.
Overall winner : Black Bottom.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Honestly, just pay more for silent yellows.
silent yellows? why
5:44 6:44
FOr me they all sound the same
why the fuck people only care about sound and not the feel?
Beats me
:)
I'd thumb up this vid if it wasn't for the fact that not even 5 seconds into the program you had sworn at us twice. What's up with that? I coulkd care less where your focus on life is. I'm outa here.
Ok, this video was really dumb. WHY not put the switches side to side and tap them in order and quickly so we can hear the difference as it's fresh on the memory?
Why even tap the switch without the keycap since there's no way to know how the switch is going to sound on different keycaps and boards?
HOW does the color or transparency of the material on the switch housing affects its sound?
If it's a different material on each housings then it can make sense to sound differently, but not just because of the color or transparency.
You do realize there's a segment of the video that literally is me "putting the switches side to side and tapping them in order and quickly" both at 6:50 and 10:22 right? Also, if you put the switches side by side and not in the same spot, that potentially alters the sound of the switch.
Some people do tests/videos with pressing the switch without the keycap. I decided to include it. If you don't like it, there's a reason why I included a *massive* list of labeled time stamps for viewers to skip to their point of interest.
It seems to me you just watched 2 minutes of the video by skipping around and then made a hasty comment without actually properly looking at what the video had to offer. If anything, this comment was "really dumb," as it disrespects both the content and its creator while wasting your own time.
Also, people come to these videos for more the sound comparisons rather than the trivia. It's a given that different housing materials may cause switches to sound different from their siblings, but I'm not going to give a massive history lesson for a video that's mainly created for differences in sound. The video is already as long as is. There are other videos for that.
@@toufusoup
You just presumed wrong as I was expecting you to do... Side by side means exactly that, side by side, not the same spot with editing cuts. So I meant that you should put all of the switches in a row and tap them side by side.
And no, they won't sound different if you do it right. You just have to put the acrylic case on a very thick cotton pillow (or something like that) and on a desk that doesn't shake nor vibrates.
A ceramic floor would be perfect.
If the case hits a solid desk it will sound different in different spots and almost no one has the same desk, so the switches with keycaps, board and case might sound very different for many users.
Try to see if your sound test results match the others here on RUclips... They won't. None of them match each other because people test on their boards, on their desks and with exotic keycaps that most people either find them hideous or can't use them because of compatibility issues.
OEM ABS and OEM PBT (from likes of Corsair, HyperX and such) keycaps should be used on these tests, as they are more common than thick premium PBT customized SA ones, for example.
Sorry for calling you the D word.
I'm a little angry, but I don't want your channel to fail, I want it to get better.
I understand your sentiment and I thank you for your feedback.
However, I'm still a firm believer in using the same spot on either a keyboard or an acrylic switch tester, as I've done enough tests to tell that there are still noticeable differences when you swap them up, whether it be on a surface that vibrates or not. The reason being: this video is the third draft. In the first and second drafts, I used different spots on a keyboard and acrylic switch tester respectively on a deskmat, which eliminates the majority of vibrations (thank you nearLucid), as it's a massive piece of fabric with a slab of rubber on the bottom. Every time I compared one Gat. Yellow to the next by swapping up the positions on the keyboard/tester, they would sound different. Suddenly the Fully Milk Gat Yellow would sound super high-pitched when just a moment ago when it was in a different spot, it was much bassier.
There's also a video VOD from TaehaTypes where he was comparing the sounds/feels of the newly released H1s and every time he swapped up the keyswitch positions, he/chat kept choosing a different switch, as even though the keyboard was a top mount, that doesn't give the same consistency of putting a switch in ONE specific spot, eliminating that variable. The way to "do it right" is to make sure to eliminate the number of variables in a test that makes things go wrong. I actually made a video about this: ruclips.net/video/WRsCUWMmIgs/видео.html
In terms of keycaps, I don't use GMK or whatnot, I use JTK specifically in this video, but other videos since this video I usually just grab a keycap from my cheap AliExpress OEM PBT Keycap sets or whatnot. So you can rest easy there.
@@toufusoup
If the switch sounds different in different spots it can only mean that the acrylic case is not even. Then you should just use acrylic cases that house just one switch per case and tap them side by side on a pillow or deskmat.
Think about what you just said...
If different spots gives you different sounds, then which spot gives the true sound of the switch? That can also mean that the acrylic is changing the sound of the switch, which is a problem if you want to show the true sound of a switch. I think you should use modeling clay (I don't know if that's the correct name on your country) as a case over a pillow or deskmat. That way there would be no difference in sound from the case.
Using a pillow or mega-thick fabric of the same nature super-bass-boosts a switch sound. There's a reason why people created these meme sound tests where they stuffed an entire pillowcase underneath their plate or type on a super fluffy tablecloth is because the word "thock" is a godforsaken joke now. Even if I were to get those singular key switch acrylic testers, I'd be hard-pressed to find a way to properly hold them down. It's not feasible. Any form of switch holding item, whether it be an acrylic switch tester or a keyboard plate/PCB, it's impossible to have this so-called "perfect" tester/plate where every spot sounds the same because that's literally not how physics works. You can have a plate that can be really really good at keeping a consistent sound for the majority of the plate but nothing will be as consistent as keeping a switch in ONE spot.
Also, while different spots give you different switch sounds, the one thing that is consistent if I put a switch in a single spot is its pitch. If we disregard acrylic switch testers for now and just talk about testing switches on a keyboard if Switch "A" in the "H" key is bassier than Switch "B" in the same spot, it's going to have the same result if I put it in,, say, the "B" key. The reason being, the variables of different locations on a keyboard are gone, and I'll be using the same keycap, so that variable is gone too. Thus, the switch and only the switch is the isolated independent variable in which I can safely test the sound of. The only thing now that may affect sound is if I moved the keyboard/microphone so the distance won't be the same.
plastic
Do Gateron Pro Milky Yellow switches have interference for Northfacing LEDs on Cherry MX keycaps?
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6:15
5:59 6:30