I really hope you grow big within r/mk at least for the effort you're putting in. After watching quite a few of your videos your videos are all over my feed so that's good
Hey my guy I appreciate ya. I dunno if I wanna post my stuff to r/MK though it if anyone else wants to do so I give full permissions lol and something tells me if it ain’t high enough production quality it’s not gonna be appreciated by the masses. So I’m just sticking with my YT audience and seeing what happens.
Hey, hi PixelFries from Discord here. Nice video really nice to see that you made this comparison. (I don't know if you have tealios v2 and black inks v2 but that would be a nice comparison too) Keep up the quality content! Love from the United States :)
Love you too man. I also unfortunately don't have any Tealios and or Black Inks that are unlubed. Either they're in a board that I soldered or I frankenswitched at one point or another. Perhaps if I can swipe some in a lucky Discord WTS, maybe
I’ll also be putting ks3 yellows in my upcoming kfe build. I don’t think they’re inferior to jwk, cherry, or any other switches despite their low price.
@@toufusoup hey, can you recommend me some heavy switches? 😁 57-60gf actuation force is the bare minimum weight that I'd be comfortable with. I can go higher since my current 3 main switches are Outemu Black, Teal,and Silent Gray v2.
Hey, I watched your previous video (no KS-3 version) and I think I like the CAP milky more because of RGB-friendly housing. I do wonder though, which is better, Cherry MX red or Gat CAP milky yellow? ... I am about to buy an RK hot-swap keyboard and deciding between getting cheaper board + CAP milky yellows for replacing the RK switches or getting more expensive option comes with MX reds and stick with them.
I think you’ll probably fare better with hotswap capabilities and the ability to mod your switches if you so choose. At the end of the day it’s how much you wanna do with your board before using it as a daily driver.
@@toufusoup Thx. I may end up buying Cheery Red board & Gat Yellow to try myself. I used to type on Cherry Red a bit and quite like it. Just wonder why many people are praising Gat Yellow while Cherry Red is much less mentioned.
Gateron and Cherry clones had their time to be better than the household name in terms of both affordability and quality over the years. Gateron linears for example are very renowned, from Gat. Yellows to Gat. Inks
Does the both bottom and top black housing need a film switch to improve them? Some says they're tighter than other variant but I don't know if that being tighter equals to lesser wobble or basically just the same but tighter housing.
1. Yes 2. If you watched the vid KS-3 offers tighter tolerances by a tad and also a bit deeper sounding by a smidge 3. If you're looking to do an RGB build, none of these lol
Hey nice comprehensive review and comparison, got me into ks3 instantly, but I have a question, I see you use the fifine k669 mic, I want to ask how would you rate it for recording keyboard sounds? Been looking into this mic and I want to get it for keyboards, looking forward to your response ;)
It’s a condenser microphone, and I personally love the thing. It probably isn’t the most like... professional thing out there but any keyboard build I’ve showcased in recent times has used this microphone. Give ‘em a listen and see for yourself?
@@toufusoup lol I finally found your reply through my notif, thanks for the reply! And I'll probably put this on my shopping list for a sound test microphone for now ;)
I’d say if you’re looking for that minute difference yes. But if you have milky top black bottoms already lubed/filmed/in your board and you cbf’d to do the process all over again just don’t bother lol
I'm trying to make the most silent and rgb friendly tactile switch, so I was wondering what a silent sky stem (silent tactile v2.2) in an aliaz housing would be like. Also was that a mfing jojo reference?!
I feel like that’d be fine tbh. I’ve slapped the silent tactile stem in a lot of switch housings and they always work somehow, though I suggest keeping to the standard housings since for some reason they feel like they have a lot of resistance prior to bottoming out. Could be your thing but just a forewarning. Also, “Dio v2” is an actual board lol
@@toufusoup I heard that some bottom housings have that problem, gazzew suggested to "retool" the base using a drill bit, so thanks for pointing out that I may have to do this. If you want to fix that issue on your switches, here's the post. www.reddit.com/user/hbheroinbob/comments/bo8dc9/about_retooling_bases_why_and_how_very_easy/?
Full milk has a more of a higher clack rather than the lower thock of the KS3. Both feel fine though. I tested this with two separate switches, stock/lubed-filmed, same spot on both a keyboard and acrylic switch tester.
OG Gateron Yellow Video: ruclips.net/video/aqj_MVZdTQM/видео.html
Which Gaterons Allow The Most RGB: ruclips.net/video/mbe2HxR5y9w/видео.html
thank you so much for these videos! they've helped me a lot with figuring out what keys to get. very cool!
Happy to help!
I really hope you grow big within r/mk at least for the effort you're putting in. After watching quite a few of your videos your videos are all over my feed so that's good
Hey my guy I appreciate ya. I dunno if I wanna post my stuff to r/MK though it if anyone else wants to do so I give full permissions lol and something tells me if it ain’t high enough production quality it’s not gonna be appreciated by the masses. So I’m just sticking with my YT audience and seeing what happens.
@@toufusoup so authentic its wholesome
Hey, hi PixelFries from Discord here. Nice video really nice to see that you made this comparison. (I don't know if you have tealios v2 and black inks v2 but that would be a nice comparison too) Keep up the quality content! Love from the United States :)
Love you too man. I also unfortunately don't have any Tealios and or Black Inks that are unlubed. Either they're in a board that I soldered or I frankenswitched at one point or another. Perhaps if I can swipe some in a lucky Discord WTS, maybe
was looking for someone to review them, thanks for sharing
I’ll also be putting ks3 yellows in my upcoming kfe build. I don’t think they’re inferior to jwk, cherry, or any other switches despite their low price.
Preach. People need to know expensive =/= insta-quality.
Reject meme jwk, return to chad Gateron
say, can I have your thoughts about lubed Gateron Yellow KS-3x47 versus the stock, factory lubed Gateron Pro Yellow?
I unfortunately don’t have any pro yellows on me. However, from what I’ve heard, Pros even with a light coat of lube is pretty poggers
@@toufusoup ah, so in other words, it's better off to buy the KS-3X47 switches and lube them ourselves instead?
I’m saying the pros probably are better. They’re the ones with the sanded down interior, right?
@@toufusoup I see, thanks for the reply
@@toufusoup hey, can you recommend me some heavy switches? 😁 57-60gf actuation force is the bare minimum weight that I'd be comfortable with. I can go higher since my current 3 main switches are Outemu Black, Teal,and Silent Gray v2.
Hello I have a question about the black bottom milky Top switch I there rgb showing?
Nope. If you want to see visualization there’s a video on my channel showing it in real time, it’s in the pinned comment.
Hey, I watched your previous video (no KS-3 version) and I think I like the CAP milky more because of RGB-friendly housing. I do wonder though, which is better, Cherry MX red or Gat CAP milky yellow? ... I am about to buy an RK hot-swap keyboard and deciding between getting cheaper board + CAP milky yellows for replacing the RK switches or getting more expensive option comes with MX reds and stick with them.
I think you’ll probably fare better with hotswap capabilities and the ability to mod your switches if you so choose. At the end of the day it’s how much you wanna do with your board before using it as a daily driver.
@@toufusoup Thx. I may end up buying Cheery Red board & Gat Yellow to try myself. I used to type on Cherry Red a bit and quite like it. Just wonder why many people are praising Gat Yellow while Cherry Red is much less mentioned.
Gateron and Cherry clones had their time to be better than the household name in terms of both affordability and quality over the years. Gateron linears for example are very renowned, from Gat. Yellows to Gat. Inks
I got a question, does it support rgb light passthrough?
These two don’t. I made a video on which ones do.
How does the Milky top, black bottom compare to a Clear top black bottom?
Bruh I found out like a day after i ordered my ks3x47 that the ks3 switches were more thockier :(
hello, does this swithces interfere with cherry profile keycaps when using north facing LEDs PCB? thank you
Yes almost all switches do
A select few switches like BOX Creams do not but yeah I’m pretty sure these do
@@toufusoup thank you very much, i found out that holy pandas and boba u4t dont interfere when north facing oriented !
Does the both bottom and top black housing need a film switch to improve them? Some says they're tighter than other variant but I don't know if that being tighter equals to lesser wobble or basically just the same but tighter housing.
They are very good without films already but if you want that tiny bit extra go for the films
@@toufusoup Thanks, guess I can save a little bit that way hahaha.
Is this thockier than black inks?
No but it’s exceptionally respectable for what you pay.
If I install a ks3x47 to a techware phantom will the rgb be clear?
It will most likely be muddled
I have three questions
1. Does the black top affect rgb output ?
2. What is the difference between the acoustics and feel between this two switch?
3. Which should I get lol
1. Yes
2. If you watched the vid KS-3 offers tighter tolerances by a tad and also a bit deeper sounding by a smidge
3. If you're looking to do an RGB build, none of these lol
Hey nice comprehensive review and comparison, got me into ks3 instantly, but I have a question, I see you use the fifine k669 mic, I want to ask how would you rate it for recording keyboard sounds? Been looking into this mic and I want to get it for keyboards, looking forward to your response ;)
It’s a condenser microphone, and I personally love the thing. It probably isn’t the most like... professional thing out there but any keyboard build I’ve showcased in recent times has used this microphone. Give ‘em a listen and see for yourself?
@@toufusoup lol I finally found your reply through my notif, thanks for the reply! And I'll probably put this on my shopping list for a sound test microphone for now ;)
Keybored just said Full Black KS-3 is the highest pitch. What is going on ?!
I feel like it could depend on the chassis, lube, and films. I plan to re-test this in the future but until my keyboard arrives, I can’t do much.
Thanks think I'll buy the ks-3, question is should I film them? If so what size would you recommend?
Any is fine, I personally used 0.15mm but 0.125 also works
Hi is it worth switching from milky top to full black housing ?
I’d say if you’re looking for that minute difference yes. But if you have milky top black bottoms already lubed/filmed/in your board and you cbf’d to do the process all over again just don’t bother lol
lmfao once again- amazing vid
I'm trying to make the most silent and rgb friendly tactile switch, so I was wondering what a silent sky stem (silent tactile v2.2) in an aliaz housing would be like.
Also was that a mfing jojo reference?!
I feel like that’d be fine tbh. I’ve slapped the silent tactile stem in a lot of switch housings and they always work somehow, though I suggest keeping to the standard housings since for some reason they feel like they have a lot of resistance prior to bottoming out. Could be your thing but just a forewarning. Also, “Dio v2” is an actual board lol
@@toufusoup I heard that some bottom housings have that problem, gazzew suggested to "retool" the base using a drill bit, so thanks for pointing out that I may have to do this. If you want to fix that issue on your switches, here's the post.
www.reddit.com/user/hbheroinbob/comments/bo8dc9/about_retooling_bases_why_and_how_very_easy/?
Hey, how would you compare the sound of these to the full milky? Are these thockier or deeper sounding?
Full milk has a more of a higher clack rather than the lower thock of the KS3. Both feel fine though.
I tested this with two separate switches, stock/lubed-filmed, same spot on both a keyboard and acrylic switch tester.
@@toufusoup Ah thank you
I wanna see you make the most horrible frankinswitch you can
Any ideas?
@@toufusoup pingiest springs + worst sounding clicky switch + scratchy housing
@@daward3349 dude that comes factory given with MX blues
But putting them in cream housings makes them sound better lmao
Gat blue stem in a gat linear smd housing. Rattly and not even tactile
Milky top sounds thockier but ks3 is not bad, but less thocky. I like milky top!
gaoted
first ik no one cares